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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
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Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid
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I think we have always brought the subject of lube & hydro fluifs to a
pretty fine point on this list.  But, what about cleaning, degreasing,
fluids?  As I begin a new project I am starting to have to fight the 50
years of buildup on this latest acquisition.
 
I bought the ZEP Purple degreaser, this stuff seems to work real good, wear
gloves and don't let it get into an open cut.  My only complaint is that it
has a slick film residue that really requires some clean water scrubbing
after you have degreased your part.
 
So what EPA compliant(or not) compound are you using?  Pros & Cons?
 
Inquiring minds need to know,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 12:50:14 2012
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I have had great success with (depending upon the severity)

carb cleaning fluid (buy from walmart, not flaps); add fine steel wool 
(0000) where necessary

orange cleaning fluid from the dollar store

a couple gallons of that cleaning solution (comes in a 1 gal can; has a 
little plastic parts holder in it)

and for a more macro approach, buy a good power washer.

-----Original Message----- 
From: bill_beecher@flash.net
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 11:41 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid

I think we have always brought the subject of lube & hydro fluifs to a
pretty fine point on this list.  But, what about cleaning, degreasing,
fluids?  As I begin a new project I am starting to have to fight the 50
years of buildup on this latest acquisition.

I bought the ZEP Purple degreaser, this stuff seems to work real good, wear
gloves and don't let it get into an open cut.  My only complaint is that it
has a slick film residue that really requires some clean water scrubbing
after you have degreased your part.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 13:23:24 2012
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From: "Mack, Michael (Rochester)" <Michael.Mack@redcross.org>
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I've had good success with Simple Green.  I used it undiluted on the outside
of my Spitfires tranny and cleaned up some vinyl GT6 seats.  I bought a gallon
pretty cheap at BJs wholesale club.  Sam's Club probably has it also.

Mike Mack
80 TR8
73 Stag
79 Spit
70 GT6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 13:50:43 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Silicon and Paint
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For what's its worth, my paint shop guy said clean up any silcon (Armor
All, DOT5, whatever) before you do any sanding.  He said sanding will push
the silicon into the paint, plastic, etc and then no amount of cleaning
will remove it (barring cleaning to bare metal).  He recommended Dawn
dishwashing detergent.  I did that but it still wasn't sheeting water like
I liked so I followed up with some water soluble parts degreaser from Sam's
Club, then I used Dawn after that again.  Worked great.  I was painting a
TR8 plastic dash that I know had been ArmorAll'd multiple times 'cuz I'd
done it.

Ben.....

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The parts that I can remove are taken to the 'quarter car wash' and I blast
the bejeebers out of them.  Take coveralls and googles, there is a lot of
blowback.  Those that aren't readily transported I use a trusty old, worn out,
rounded off flat screwdriver as a scraper.  Once I have broken through the
main layers I use a product from Kano Labs called Floway.  It works pretty
darned well, with some scrubbing of course..

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 16:37:22 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid
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> If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they
> based on?

Sorry, I mistyped.  I meant to say not directly based on petroleum.
Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals
involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing
the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the
way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are).

I did a bit of poking around on the net.  According to one paper, one
formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35%
Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A,
"antioxidant", and "anticorrosive".

"Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of
chemicals, the paper did not give specifics.  But apparently glycol ethers
are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the
presence of a suitable catalyst.  Boric acid esters are made by combining
boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques
to extract the desired ester from the result.  One text said:

"Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the
azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched
phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20),
washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..."  (I didn't pay to
read the remainder of the paper)

Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is
produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas).  So there
is your link back to "dinosaur juice".

Does that answer the question?
<g>

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 19:47:56 2012
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I agree regarding using Dawn dishwashing soap to prep a car for paint. I had 
a problem with fisheye while painting my engine compartment. Not sure where 
it came from (the silicon), but it really screwed up the paint. I washed it 
with water and Dawn, rinsed really well and then sanded with 400 wet/dry to 
get down to a smooth finish. Then wiped it down with paint prep (wash 
on/wipe off method) with two lint free paper towels.Thankfully, that did the 
trick but what a pain..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  1 19:48:34 2012
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Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid
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Thanks to everyone that responded to my question.
Since I bought both master cylinders from The Roadster Factory, I think I will
just buy fluid from them the next time I order something else.
Now, back to painting..
Thanks again everyone!
Dave Connitt

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but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference 
between dot 3 and dot 4?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM
To: 'Don Hiscock'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

> If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they
> based on?

Sorry, I mistyped.  I meant to say not directly based on petroleum.
Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals
involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing
the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the
way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are).

I did a bit of poking around on the net.  According to one paper, one
formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35%
Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A,
"antioxidant", and "anticorrosive".

"Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of
chemicals, the paper did not give specifics.  But apparently glycol ethers
are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the
presence of a suitable catalyst.  Boric acid esters are made by combining
boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques
to extract the desired ester from the result.  One text said:

"Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the
azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched
phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20),
washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..."  (I didn't pay to
read the remainder of the paper)

Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is
produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas).  So there
is your link back to "dinosaur juice".

Does that answer the question?
<g> 

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here is a good description of the various brake fluids including 5.1

there are actually numerous discourses on the net about brake fluid, mostly 
in automotive boards


http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/ 

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Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 22:05:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid
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dont make me say DOT 1



________________________________
From: Dave
<dave@ranteer.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2012
8:26 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

but the question still remains (at
least for me) what's the difference between dot 3 and dot 4?

-----Original
Message----- From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM
To: 'Don
Hiscock'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

> If
"synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they
> based on?
Sorry, I mistyped.  I meant to say not directly based on petroleum.
Petroleum
may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals
involved, but there
were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing
the brake fluid, it
wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the
way gasoline, diesel
fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are).

I did a bit of poking around on the
net.  According to one paper, one
formula for conventional brake fluid is
approx 53% glycol ether and 35%
Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of
polyglycol, bisphenol A,
"antioxidant", and "anticorrosive".

"Glycol ether"
and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of
chemicals, the paper did
not give specifics.  But apparently glycol ethers
are commonly made by
reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the
presence of a suitable
catalyst.  Boric acid esters are made by combining
boric acid with either an
alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques
to extract the desired
ester from the result.  One text said:

"Some of the methods that have been
used to separate methyl borate from the
azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric
acid and distillation of the enriched
phase (18), treatment with calcium
chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20),
washing with a hydrocarbon and
distillation (21), ..."  (I didn't pay to
read the remainder of the paper)
Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is
produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas).  So there
is your link back to "dinosaur juice".

Does that answer the question?
<g> 
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid
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Frank Fisher wrote:
> dont make me say DOT 1
>
>

Now that was funny!

mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 00:11:27 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid
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The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat
paint the way DOT 3 does.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference 
between dot 3 and dot 4?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM
To: 'Don Hiscock'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

> If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they
> based on?

Sorry, I mistyped.  I meant to say not directly based on petroleum.
Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals
involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing
the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the
way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are).

I did a bit of poking around on the net.  According to one paper, one
formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35%
Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A,
"antioxidant", and "anticorrosive".

"Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of
chemicals, the paper did not give specifics.  But apparently glycol ethers
are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the
presence of a suitable catalyst.  Boric acid esters are made by combining
boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques
to extract the desired ester from the result.  One text said:

"Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the
azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched
phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20),
washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..."  (I didn't pay to
read the remainder of the paper)

Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is
produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas).  So there
is your link back to "dinosaur juice".

Does that answer the question?
<g> 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 06:24:27 2012
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Subject: [TR] Oils and the Sump Drain Plug Magnet
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Am conducting a little experiment.

Just finished engine rebuild on my TR3.  Tried to start it, discovered I was a tooth off with the ignition, fixed that, and then it started right up.  Ran smooth and strong with no leaks for 25 minutes before I shut it down.  Made some water pump noise for a few minutes, then that quieted right out.  Smokes more than I remember from last time, but I expect that will sort out as the rings set.

The experiment is, I added a few wads of magnets to the outside of the sump, near the magnetic drain plug, to see if it doesn't capture more metal shavings common with rebuilds.  I don't see why it wouldn't complement the already magnetic plug.

But it raised the question.  While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for break-in is not magnetic.  ...But...are there other elements in the oil that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic field?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method
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The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes to .010.  

I hadn't noticed that before.  I had always set the valves on the exhaust when the intake was completely down, and vice versa.  

Question:  Does it make any difference?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 06:56:48 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method
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In the big picture, you always want to adjust a valve when its lifter or
tappet is completely "off the cam". It's true that an exhaust valve would be
fully closed when the intake is fully open and vice-versa. Your system
should be fine. Alternatively, you will never have a problem if you adjust
valves for a given cylinder when it is at TDC - Compression. By using
distributor rotor position as a guide, you only have to turn the engine over
twice to adjust all valves in this manner. Some engine manufacturers, Deere
as an example, will tell you all of the valves that can be adjusted when #1
cylinder is at TDC - Compression and will then direct you to turn the
crankshaft one revolution and adjust all of the remaining valves. On small
air-cooled engines that may be equipped with a compression release device
via the exhaust valve, the manufacturers usually direct you to adjust the
valves when the piston is approximately 0.5" below and after TDC -
Compression. I'm not quite sure what the term "point-of-balance" refers to.
Depending on your automotive dialect, I suppose it could refer to what some
of us call "valve rock" at TDC - Exhaust or full clearance at TDC -
Compression.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 8:25 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method

The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust
are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes
to .010.  

I hadn't noticed that before.  I had always set the valves on the exhaust
when the intake was completely down, and vice versa.  

Question:  Does it make any difference?  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid
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Yep, that's all it took for me to change.  My paint guy said he would use
DOT-3 for stripper if it weren't so expensive. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:12 AM
To: 'Dave'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat
paint the way DOT 3 does.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference
between dot 3 and dot 4?

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM
To: 'Don Hiscock'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid

> If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they 
> based on?

Sorry, I mistyped.  I meant to say not directly based on petroleum.
Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals
involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing
the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the
way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are).

I did a bit of poking around on the net.  According to one paper, one
formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35%
Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A,
"antioxidant", and "anticorrosive".

"Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of
chemicals, the paper did not give specifics.  But apparently glycol ethers
are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the
presence of a suitable catalyst.  Boric acid esters are made by combining
boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques
to extract the desired ester from the result.  One text said:

"Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the
azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched
phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20),
washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..."  (I didn't pay to
read the remainder of the paper)

Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is
produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas).  So there
is your link back to "dinosaur juice".

Does that answer the question?
<g> 

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Subject: Re: [TR] Oils and the Sump Drain Plug Magnet
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Seems unlikely to me since iron & nickel are the only common elements I
know of that are attracted to the magnets.

I do modify those magnetic drain plugs commonly sold by breaking and
digging out the fairly lame magnet that comes in them and JBWelding a
rare-earth magnet in its place.

Geo

On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:19 AM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

> ...While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for
> break-in is not magnetic.  ...But...are there other elements in the oil
> that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic
> field?

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From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method
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I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is
essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which
ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position).

Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at
.012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 08:00:38 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid
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What is this fluid stuff of which you speak?Is that the same as fluif? :)

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 09:42:11 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR8 uprated front sway bar
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Hello list members. We are just finishing another production run of our 
TR8 uprated front (anti-roll) sway bars.  The bar is 7/8" diameter 
compared to 13/16" found on a stock  TR8 or 3/4" for a stock TR7.  For 
sway bar rate information and other useful suspension data please go to 
our website www.tsimportedautomotive.com and select "Product Info" (5th 
gear)  As usual, the list is offered a "price" or incentives not found 
on our website.  Sway bar price is $141.95.  Choose from any of the 3 
options listed below. Price is good till June 23rd.  Thanks for your 
time and support.  Ted

#1.  Free shipping for bar anywhere in lower 48 states. Canadian 
customers - if you have a US pick up address this works for you.
#2.  Urethane sway bar mount set - $29 is regular price for the mounts.
#3.  Free needle bearing front strut kit - $35 is regular price for the 
kit.


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide:
  419.384.3022

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  2 11:31:51 2012
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I just got done doing this last weekend, I took a short ride today and came home to adjust idle, I feel like it is tapping more than it was before the adjustment.


A member of my car club helped me, we set to .010. It is fine when driving, no issues there.

If you hear the valves at idle, does this generally mean they are too loose or too tight? I would rather be towards the loose end based on this thread.

Thanks in advance.

Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


On 06/02/12, Geo Hahn<ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is
essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which
ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position).

Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at
.012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive.

Geo

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On 6/2/2012 2:11 AM, Joe Curry wrote:
> The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat
> paint the way DOT 3 does.

But it will pool water, contain air, and give a slightly softer pedal.  
That's why there are choices.  I prefer the hard pedal and maximum 
stopping power, at the expense of periodic brake system maintenance.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?
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On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 6:53 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> Hi List,
> I don't really want to start another thread on brake fluid...
>


I guess we all saw this coming but got on board anyway.

Geo

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