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From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
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Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik
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Subject: Fw: Upbeat muzik



 
Much better than rap, agree?
Y/N  RSVP  
jdabars@att.net



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars
<jdabars@att.net
Subject: Upbeat muzik


Klik here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780        3 min.  58 sec
 
TURN UP VOLUME

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 03:38:52 2012
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From: KingsCreekTrees@aol.com
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Subject: [TR] SU H6 float question
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Hi all;
 
My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time  
to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and 
 there on it.
 
After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine  
power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a 
couple  of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts 
fine. I've  replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter.
 
I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I  
pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front 
carb  was floating. The float in the rear carb  was not, and there was no 
fuel in  the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the carbs.
 
Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem?
 
Tim

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 07:54:45 2012
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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Subject: Re: [TR] SU H6 float question
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Possible but it also might be due to your tank not venting.  Pulling fuel 
from a tank with a blocked vent will create a vacuum interfering with proper 
pump operation.  Next time it happens pop open the fuller cap and see what 
happens.  Of course the cap should vent but maybe it doesn't.

Another possibility is vapor lock.  I once had a car that ran fine until 
the thermostat opened up.  Then it would barely run.

Dave

In a message dated 8/1/2012 4:41:22 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KingsCreekTrees@aol.com writes: 
> My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had 
> time  
> to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here 
> and 
> there on it.
> 
> After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine  
> 
> power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a 
> couple  of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts 
> 
> fine. I've  replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter.
> 
> I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I 
>  
> pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front 
> 
> carb  was floating. The float in the rear carb  was not, and there was no 
> fuel in  the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the 
> carbs.
> 
> Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 07:55:28 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] SU H6 float question
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Sounds like the rear valve sticking closed could be an issue, but also the
fuel line between the carbs could be blocked somehow.
Simple tests on each should reveal the issue.

Are you running the original-styled needle valves or the ball-styled "grose'
valves?


On Aug 1, 2012, at 4:37 AM, KingsCreekTrees@aol.com wrote:

> Hi all;
>
> My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time
> to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and
> there on it.
>
> After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine
> power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a
> couple  of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts
> fine. I've  replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter.
>
> I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I
> pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front
> carb  was floating. The float in the rear carb  was not, and there was no
> fuel in  the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the
carbs.
>
> Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem?
>
> Tim
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

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Tim,

Same problem here a few years ago but on the front carb. I was using the 
Gross (SP), jets and could not figure out why they were sticking closed. 
So I replaced them both with the original ones from Moss and problem solved.

I have heard others mention that they are not fans of the Gross jets.

If you have the stock jets, just replace them with new ones. Problem may 
be related to the alcohol in the gas but not sure. Could also be varnish 
or some other junk in the jet.

Bob

On 08/01/2012 05:37 AM, KingsCreekTrees@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all;
>   
> My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time
> to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and
>   there on it.
>   
> After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine
> power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a
> couple  of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts
> fine. I've  replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter.
>   
> I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I
> pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front
> carb  was floating. The float in the rear carb  was not, and there was no
> fuel in  the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the carbs.
>   
> Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem?
>   
> Tim

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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
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Hello List:
  I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the 
quality of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all 
of the leaks stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only 
one problem, I can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point 
to stop leaking. The front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber 
washers is fine - no leaks, but the rear is another matter.
I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber 
washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber 
washers each time, but still no luck.
Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more 
compliant material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? 
What about using something like Permatex on the washers?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 09:36:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
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i put a thin film of Hylomar on mine.
i did it first time and no leaks. so i cant say if it was the Hylomar or just good gasket fit
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 7:42 AM
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
  
Hello List:
I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the quality of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all of the leaks stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only one problem, I can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point to stop leaking. The front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber washers is fine - no leaks, but the rear is another matter.
I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber washers each time, but still no luck.
Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more compliant material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? What about using something like Permatex on the washers?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 13:21:29 -0500
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
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I guess H4 and H6 kits are different.  Mine came with rubber grommets.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 1, 2012, at 11:36 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

> i put a thin film of Hylomar on mine.
> i did it first time and no leaks. so i cant say if it was the Hylomar or
just good gasket fit
> Frank
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 7:42 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
>
> Hello List:
> I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the quality
of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all of the leaks
stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only one problem, I
can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point to stop leaking. The
front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber washers is fine - no leaks, but
the rear is another matter.
> I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber washers,
bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber washers each time,
but still no luck.
> Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more compliant
material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? What about using
something like Permatex on the washers?
> Any advice greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Hi all:
 
Is anyone on this list going to the 6-pack TRials in Niagara
Falls this September from either New England or upstate New York?    I'm still
on the fence, but if we go I'd like to join a caravan headed that way if
possible.  Please contact me off list.
 
Thanks,
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
jmerone@rocketmail.com    

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Hello List-


Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party?

Toga, toga, toga,....



Steven O. Thornton
Attorney at Law
1011 Lehman Avenue
Suite 102
Bowling Green, KY. 42103


Sent from my iPad

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may want to fit a quick release seat belt assembly if your going over the
falls in a TR6!
 

________________________________
 From: Joe Merone
<jmerone@rocketmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 6 Pack
list <6pack@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 11:30 AM
Subject:
[TR] Going to the TRials?
  
    
Hi all:

Is anyone on this list going to the
6-pack TRials in Niagara
Falls this September from either New England or
upstate New York?    I'm still
on the fence, but if we go I'd like to join a
caravan headed that way if
possible.  Please contact me off list.

Thanks,
Joe Merone
CF18928
jmerone@rocketmail.com    

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 12:51:44 2012
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Hey Steve,
Beverly & I will be there. 
TKD    Tappa Kegga Day!!!!!
Toga----Toga----Toga
Darrell

 
 
In a message dated 8/1/2012 2:42:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
SOThornton@aol.com writes:

Who is  going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party?

Toga, toga,  toga,....

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 13:54:39 2012
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] SU H6 float question
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> Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem?

I would not assume that, especially since you say the engine dies completely
later on.  Incoming fuel is routed to the front carb first, so if there
isn't enough to feed both carbs, the rear carb is the one that starves.  And
the engine will run (although not well, dies at idle, etc) on just the front
carb.

I would be looking for a fuel delivery problem first.  Most "vacuum test
gauges" will also measure fuel pressure.  Tee it into the fuel line and prop
the gauge under a wiper arm so you can see it when the engine starts to act
up.
http://goo.gl/HnvRG

As I think someone already mentioned, you can try leaving the fuel cap open
to be sure it is not a tank venting problem.

-- Randall 

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers
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> I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber
> washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber
> washers each time, but still no luck.

The book shows a washer "set" with 3 washers in the diagram.  I assume the
bottom washer is steel.  Are you installing all 3 washers?  Does the bolt
clamp down tight against the bowl (meaning you can't move the bowl after the
bolt is tight) ?

> Any substitute for the fiber washers?

The Burlen web site shows the later rubber grommets (for the H6) as fitting
the H4.  You may also need the steel flat washer that goes against the bolt
head.
http://goo.gl/Xrh46

They also show a plastic (poly perhaps) replacement for the rubber that
might work better.  (I think I'll order a few of those myself as I get tired
of replacing the rubber every few years.)

It might be worth removing the carb from the engine, and holding it up where
you can see clearly where the leak is.  It might not be the washer at all.
For example, there is a small plug in the bowl casting that might be
leaking, or there could be a crack somewhere that isn't visible otherwise.

I've tried various kinds of sealer on the rubber grommets over the years,
none of them seem to help for very long.  Classic Permatex is dissolved by
ethanol, so I wouldn't think it would be a good choice (but didn't actually
try it).  But it might be different with the fiber washers, so may be worth
a try if all else fails.

-- Randall 

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Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik
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----- Forwarded Message ----

Subject: Re: Upbeat muzik




 
 
What
language are they singing in?

 
Much better than rap, agree?
Y/N  RSVP  
jdabars@att.net



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars
<jdabars@att.net
Subject: Upbeat muzik


Klik here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780        3 min.  58 sec
 
TURN UP VOLUME

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 15:29:39 2012
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From: "Gary Klein" <tr6.guy@verizon.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Diffy Axle Flange Removal
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Everyone,

I want to replace the shaft seals to stop the leaks and am wondering whether
there is there a trick to remove the axle mounting flanges on a TR6 diffy?
I've tried a big puller but they won't budge and applying heat could damage
the bearings, right?

Thanks in advance,

Gary

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Subject: [TR]  TRF's Summer Party
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Team Sukey will be there as always. Will bring the TR8 this year as
 nothing else is running :) .

I will have a get well poster hanging
 someplace in the lobby for Bob Harris, please be sure to sign it.

Togas are packed, see you there.

 Marty

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  1 17:15:29 2012
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Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:12:15 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Gary Klein <tr6.guy@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Diffy Axle Flange Removal
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Gary,

I was able to remove both flanges by putting them in a large vice and 
the using my breaker bar on a large puller by hitting the breaker bar 
with a BFH. They both popped off after a few wacks with the hammer. But 
if that failed, I would have used my impact wrench on full on the puller.

Good luck!

Bob

On 08/01/2012 05:29 PM, Gary Klein wrote:
> Everyone,
>
> I want to replace the shaft seals to stop the leaks and am wondering whether
> there is there a trick to remove the axle mounting flanges on a TR6 diffy?
> I've tried a big puller but they won't budge and applying heat could damage
> the bearings, right?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Gary

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From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] Anyone rebuild a late Triumph's turn signal stalk (switch)
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I'm rebuilding one. On reassembly should  apply any sort of grease so it
moves more smoothly?

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

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Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik
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What language are they singing in?

 
Much better than rap, agree?
Y/N 
RSVP   jdabars@att.net



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars
<jdabars@att.net
Subject: Upbeat muzik


Klik here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780        3 min.  58 sec
 
TURN UP VOLUME

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Klik on this
 
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780
 
3min  58sec

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----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
To: John
Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
Sent: Thu, August 2, 2012 2:41:35 PM
Subject: Fw:
@@@@



 
klik here

www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780

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klik here

www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780

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Sorry about the TRASH but I can not figure how to enter the
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 info
which should come up in blue.
Will
NOT send this cute site again.
John, Indianapolis, IN.

WHOA  is this the
correct way?
Enter the www.youtube info on Subject line? 

 
________________________________
From: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net"
<triumphs-request@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri,
August 3, 2012 2:04:50 PM
Subject: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780

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Today's Topics:

  1. Fw: @@@@ (Janis
Dabars)
  2. Travel song (Janis Dabars)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:43:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Janis Dabars
<jdabars@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fw: @@@@
Message-ID:
    <1343933017.28396.YahooMailRC@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
To: John
Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
Sent:
Thu, August 2, 2012 2:41:35 PM
Subject: Fw:
@@@@




klik here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780


------------------------------

Message:
2
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:46:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Janis Dabars
<jdabars@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Travel song
Message-ID:
    <1343933204.34736.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

klik here
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780


------------------------------
_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


End
of Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 321
****************************************

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  3 14:02:31 2012
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From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, FOT List <fot@autox.team.net>,
	6pack@autox.team.net
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Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 14:03:38 -0600
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Subject: [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
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That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  3 14:05:08 2012
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From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] poly verses non-ploy bushes
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I'm in the slow process of building a 2nd stag and am debating whether to
go for poly bushes or not.

The Stag is not a performance car that you can swing around corners and I
don't plan on using performance shocks or the like.

The cost of poly is about 4 times more than  normal bushes? Will the bushes
last 4 times longer? What other benefits do I get for the price?

Sujit

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Subject: Re: [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph
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Not if ... WHEN

On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

> That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost
> parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to
> Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for
> things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts.
>
> So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another
> my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be
> short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car.
>
> Somberly,
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  3 17:10:02 2012
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Subject: [TR] Sad Day - I sold a Triumph
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That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost  
parts)"  that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it  
to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're  
looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B  
posts.

So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying  
another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The  
celebration may be short lived though if I buy a vintage race car.

Somberly,
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Going to the TRials?
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Hi List!
I sent this to Joe M. the other day & didn't get a reply. A lot of
times my E-mails don't go through to people because their server's think it's
Spam mail. So I'm sending this to the list to have anyone reply to my
questions that may have the answers. 

PLEASE reply directly to my E-mail
address (above), because I'm sure the list is to busy with more important
threads, than mine. TIA,
-Cosmo Kramer

From: Cosmo Kramer
<tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
>To: "jmerone@rocketmail.com" <jmerone@rocketmail.com>
>Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:51 AM
>Subject: Going to the TRials?
>
>
>
>Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 11:30:13 -0700 (P
>From: Joe Merone
<jmerone@rocketmail.com>
>Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials?
>
>Hi all:
>Is
anyone on this list going to the 6-pack TRials in Niagara
>Falls this
September from either New England or upstate New York? I'm still
>on the
fence, but if we go I'd like to join a caravan headed that way if
>possible.
Please contact me off list.
>
>Thanks,
>Joe Merone
>-------------------------------    
>Hi Joe!
>This is the first time that
I've heard of anything going on in Niagara Falls (NF). 
>Is this event in NF,
USA or NF, CA? 
>What are the date/s of this event?
>Is there a web site
address that you can send to me, for me to view on the agenda?
>
>The reason
that I'm asking is, that I live East, only 30->45 min. away from NF, USA.
>Do
you think that IF I offer my house (I have a spare bedroom) to stay the
night/s, that anyone would be willing to take me up on it? (Thus save the cost
of hotel/motel.)
>-Cosmo Kramer

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  3 22:22:53 2012
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Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question
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List,

If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it  
has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top  
cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a  
seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches  
appear?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question
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List,

If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it  
has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top  
cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a  
seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches  
appear?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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Subject: Re: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question
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Hi Bud, take a look here, may help

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.htm

The Buckeye Triumphs site is a great technical resource.

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Good Luck!

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 11:32 PM
Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question


> List,
>
> If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it
> has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top
> cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a
> seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches
> appear?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  4 00:02:11 2012
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From: Sean Friele <SeanFriele@friele.us>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 23:04:14 -0700
Thread-Topic: New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal
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Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A from my grandparants (original owners) and
discovered a broken Clutch pedal. Does anyone have one they are willing to
sell or can recomend a source I can get it from?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  4 01:04:36 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question
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Thanks Greg, that info. is exactly what I wanted to know. I should  
have remembered to go to the Buckeye site, Nelson Riedel's stuff is  
the best information around. Certainly the catalogs are no help on top  
covers and switches

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net





On Aug 3, 2012, at 11:25 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:

> Hi Bud, take a look here, may help
>
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.htm
>
> The Buckeye Triumphs site is a great technical resource.
>
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Greg Lemon
> 68 TR250
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi@comcast.net 
> >
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 11:32 PM
> Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question
>
>
>> List,
>>
>> If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means  
>> it
>> has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top
>> cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a
>> seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches
>> appear?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson
>>
>> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>> levilevi@comcast.net
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  4 10:47:40 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.
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Hello List:
Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I 
may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this 
nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware 
suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen 
the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and 
wondering if the same holds for the stator olive.
Thanks for any insight into this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.
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The originals were slightly different dimensions than the ones commonly
available today.  In the past, I was able to "get away" with using hardware
store items, but the last time I tried it, the nut would just slip off the
threads when I tried to tighten it.

If you can find an original nut, it might be able to clamp down on the
hardware store olive; I didn't try that.  But I won't be surprised if it
works out like the fuel pump, it almost works but not quite.

-- Randall  

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 12:05:47 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.
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If the Nut is OK, and the tube is not compressed, just a new olive as they
can wear out.  $2 at TRF, have not looked at the local HW store to see if
the sizes match, maybe someone else has?
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 11:48 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.

Hello List:
Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I 
may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this 
nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware 
suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen 
the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and 
wondering if the same holds for the stator olive.
Thanks for any insight into this one.
Angelo Graham

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From: rod Trunnell <rgt2@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 10:23:26 -0700
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.
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I have used the olive from my local hardware store and have not experienced
any leakage or other issues with them.  I don't recall the size off the top of
my head.

Rod Trunnell
62 TR3B. TCF1037l


On Aug 4, 2012, at 10:05 AM, "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> If the Nut is OK, and the tube is not compressed, just a new olive as they
> can wear out.  $2 at TRF, have not looked at the local HW store to see if
> the sizes match, maybe someone else has?
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 11:48 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut.
>
> Hello List:
> Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I
> may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this
> nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware
> suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen
> the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and
> wondering if the same holds for the stator olive.
> Thanks for any insight into this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
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welcome Sean
there is a pedal assembly on ebay right now
current bid is 10.00
search on TR3
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: Sean Friele <SeanFriele@friele.us>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 11:04 PM
Subject: [TR] New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal
  
Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A from my grandparants (original owners) and
discovered a broken Clutch pedal. Does anyone have one they are willing to
sell or can recomend a source I can get it from?

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OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really
old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the
groves along with the bits of rubber seals. 
 
The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does
not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed.
Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings?  Maybe Mc-Carr?
 
Thanks,
Bill B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

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Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring
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I see the seal is still listed by Moss,
61	583-821	$7.95
SEAL, between caliper halves
caliper illus. "B" - TR3A from TS56337 (wire wheels), TS56384 (disc wheels),
TR3B (TSF series), TR4 to CT4689 (wire wheel	2
I used this seal when I rebuilt my calipers and have not had any issues with
it.

Rod


On Aug 4, 2012, at 2:53 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really
> old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the
> groves along with the bits of rubber seals.
>
> The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does
> not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed.
> Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings?  Maybe Mc-Carr?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill B
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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This?
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=583-820&WebCatalogID=0

G

On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 2:53 PM, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does
> not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed.
> Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings?  Maybe Mc-Carr?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring
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Moss does have them listed.  Either 583-821 or 583-820, depending on whether
you have the first or second generation split calipers.  (According to Moss,
your TCF series would have the 2nd gen caliper and take 583-820.)

IIRC the later seal is a standard size O-ring; while the earlier seal had a
rectangular cross section.  That may explain why the early seal is almost 3
times the price of the later one!

-- Randall  

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring
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There it is, too late in the day I guess.  Mine is a TCF so 583-820 is right
for me.
Many thanks!
Bill 
 
 
 
  Trunnell [mailto:rgt2@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 5:12 PM
To: Wbeech
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring


I see the seal is still listed by Moss,  
61 <http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29146#top>
583-821	 $7.95	 
SEAL, between caliper halves	 	
caliper illus. "B" - TR3A from TS56337 (wire wheels), TS56384 (disc wheels),
TR3B (TSF series), TR4 to CT4689 (wire wheel	 2	 	 	
I used this seal when I rebuilt my calipers and have not had any issues with
it.

Rod 


On Aug 4, 2012, at 2:53 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:



OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really
old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the
groves along with the bits of rubber seals. 

The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does
not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed.
Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings?  Maybe Mc-Carr?

Thanks,
Bill B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

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Subject: [TR] quality synchros currently available?
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Greetings All:



I suddenly need to source synchros for my early GT6 trans.  I reused my old
synchros last time around and set aside the new ones.  Today I began to
reassemble the trans w/ the unused synchros and they are junk ( I have no
idea where I bought them 8 years ago)!  The space between the gear and
synchro is about 0.010 or less instead of the 0.040+ gap.  For grins
I chucked up one of these poorly made synchros in my lathe and removed
about 0.030 stock from the flat surface.  Now I have the suitable gap
between gear & synchro but if the taper diameter was mis-machined, what
else will give me problems?   Are there any quality synchros currently
available - and who sells them?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  5 06:57:37 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] quality synchros currently available?
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The Roadster Factory claims to check theirs, and that they are higher 
quality, if you have a late GT6 they are really cheap.

http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768

As an aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble 
with 2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took 
it apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL 
mechanic and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles).  He 
suggested I use the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting 
that 4th gear synchros didn't see much wear.

Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non specialist) tranny shop use in 
rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was crazy using the old part, 
apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor quality of certain 
reproduction parts for old LBCs.

Greg Lemon
TR250

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.moss has nice and expensive ones.
On Aug 4, 2012 9:08 PM, "aribert neumann" <aribertn@gmail.com> wrote:

> Greetings All:
>
>
>
> I suddenly need to source synchros for my early GT6 trans.  I reused my old
> synchros last time around and set aside the new ones.  Today I began to
> reassemble the trans w/ the unused synchros and they are junk ( I have no
> idea where I bought them 8 years ago)!  The space between the gear and
> synchro is about 0.010 or less instead of the 0.040+ gap.  For grins
> I chucked up one of these poorly made synchros in my lathe and removed
> about 0.030 stock from the flat surface.  Now I have the suitable gap
> between gear & synchro but if the taper diameter was mis-machined, what
> else will give me problems?   Are there any quality synchros currently
> available - and who sells them?
>
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Subject: [TR]  Caliper O-Ring
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The prohibition on splitting the calipers is a persistent piece of Triumph
folklore. Like any soft part, the seal is overdue for replacement after 50
years of service. Use care to keep the parts clean during reassembly. Torque
the 3/8" bolt to 45 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolt to 75 ft-lbs. You'll need a
big vise to hold the caliper for this operation.

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Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring
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Apparently TRF, or their insurance carrier, still believes the folklore as
the answer I got back was: "We are not allowed to sell them, as a liability
issue"

My feeling is that if they are not to be split they would either be
permanently assembled or made as a single unit like on TS30766 with the
crossover pipe.

Thanks to several who responded with torque data.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2012 2:26 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring

The prohibition on splitting the calipers is a persistent piece of Triumph
folklore. Like any soft part, the seal is overdue for replacement after 50
years of service. Use care to keep the parts clean during reassembly. Torque
the 3/8" bolt to 45 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolt to 75 ft-lbs. You'll need a
big vise to hold the caliper for this operation.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
image001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
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Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes Stuck
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I went to my storage garage to start the '64 TR4 and drive it around the
block, first time in 6 months.  The front brakes were stuck.  I managed to rev
the engine enough to get the car rolling and then drive around the block, but
the brakes never really loosened up that much.  They stopped fine and the
pedal pressure felt fine.

Checking my records, I rebuilt the master cylinder in 2002 - 5,000 miles ago.
I switched to silicon fluid in 2006 - 1,000 miles ago.  I don't think I've
replaced the brake hoses and I've never touched the calipers.

The brakes pads have always rubbed a little.  What I mean is that if the car
was stopped on a slight incline, it would not roll if I took my foot off the
pedal.

Time to rebuild the calipers?
Is it safe to drive the car 5 miles home to my workshop?

paulw, Torrance, CA
1964 TR4
1956 TR3

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From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lessons Learned - Was New Member Introduction and Need Clutch
 Pedal
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     I see someone already responded that there are 3 pedal assemblies for
sale on Ebay.
     I let my daughter drive my TR3 a while back. She was trying
to return the seat to the proper position for me (all the way back!). She was
pushing against the clutch pedal as hard as she could and broke it off.
Luckily, I had a spare. I'll be TIG welding up my old one as as a spare. I
just wanted to post something so list members would know so they could keep
there eyes peeled in case someone else tries to do this in their TR3.
     I
guess that means that I should lube my seats rails as well. I don't have
trouble sliding the seats, but others do.


     Bill in Tehachapi


Date:
Fri, 3 Aug 2012 23:04:14 -0700
From: Sean Friele <SeanFriele@friele.us>
To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] New Member
Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal
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Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A
from my grandparants (original owners) and
discovered a broken Clutch pedal.
Does anyone have one they are willing to
sell or can recomend a source I can
get it from?

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Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring
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> My feeling is that if they are not to be split they would either be
> permanently assembled 

Nothing is "permanently assembled" if you apply enough force!

The advice to never disassemble Girling calipers originally came directly
from Girling.  I have seen the service note.

> or made as a single unit like on TS30766 with the crossover pipe.

So, did you also remove the big plug in the side of those calipers?  Your
theory appears to be that if it has threads, it's meant to be removed ...
<g>

-- Randall  

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Just got back from this years TRF Summer Party. If you stayed home you missed
a good one! Cant wait to do it again next year.

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From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
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Hi Aribert Neumann & list!
I would be VERY leery of purchasing the synchros
listed by TRF's  for TR4A & TR6's. The reason is that, it was posted many
years ago, on this list, that the TR4A & TR6 synchros where slightly
different. You may be lucky that these do work in your tranny, or not, but
that's a chance you'll have to take AFTER you try out the rebuilt TR6 tranny.
Now, if it works, GREAT! BUT!, If it doesn't, then you'll have to redo
everything with the right synchros. I'll check in my "Cosmo TR4/A E-mail
Repair manual" to see if it is there as a reference, or you can check yourself
if you go to:
http://tinyurl.com/6c647jh
 
It would most likely be under
Gearbox\Standard.

Now the TR4A synchros came out before the TR6's were even
made. The TR6 trannys are 'SO POST TO BE" the same trannys, but the TR6's did
make changes through the many years of production. '72 to '73 was the biggest
amounts of changes. So may be the synchros that are different for the TR6's
where never separated, or someone thought that because the TR4A & TR6 trannys
were the same, then so would be the Synchros?

But may be TRF made a
correction since then?
-----------    
Relating to :
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 5
Aug 2012 07:58:36 -0500
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "aribert
neumann" <aribertn@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR]
quality synchros currently available?

The Roadster Factory claims to check
theirs, and that they are higher 
quality, if you have a late GT6 they are
really cheap.

http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768

As an
aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble 
with
2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took 
it
apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL 
mechanic
and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles). He 
suggested I use
the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting 
that 4th gear
synchros didn't see much wear.

Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non
specialist) tranny shop use in 
rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was
crazy using the old part, 
apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor
quality of certain 
reproduction parts for old LBCs.

Greg Lemon
TR250
 
-Cosmo Kramer

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Subject: [TR] Triumphess info...
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Listers,

Is any body else slightly frustrated with the Triumphest registration
website or is  it just me?
I am trying to get information about the dinner choice; (steak or
chicken..) is all that is indicated.  My better half needs more information
than just the type of meat!  She wants to know what the actual dinner or
menu meal is to make a choice, you know Whole Chicken, Boneless Breast, Top
Sirloin, Prime rib, etc.  
Maybe Im too old or impatient to search the website for that info, but I
didnt see it when I looked.  Give me the old fashioned pdf or form,(Im
driving a 40 year old car after all), and descriptions of what the heck is
going on 
Ill be going, but I would like to register, but I cant finish it till
the wife can make her decision
Anybody here got the info or knows where I can get it??

Barry Schwartz, frustrated in San Diego...

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <v6spitfireguy@cox.net>, <spitfires@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 09:28:42 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphess info...
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I haven't tried that yet, but I am driving a 50 year car so I would just
pick up the telephone and call the hotel.  Ask for the Catering department
and I would bet you they can answer all her questions if the menu has been
set.

Good luck,
Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy@cox.net
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 8:47 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Triumphess info...

Listers,

Is any body else slightly frustrated with the Triumphest registration
website or is  it just me?
I am trying to get information about the dinner choice; (steak or
chicken..) is all that is indicated.  My better half needs more information
than just the type of meat!  She wants to know what the actual dinner or
menu meal is to make a choice, you know Whole Chicken, Boneless Breast, Top
Sirloin, Prime rib, etc.   Maybe Im too old or impatient to search the
website for that info, but I didnt see it when I looked.  Give me the old
fashioned pdf or form,(Im driving a 40 year old car after all), and
descriptions of what the heck is going on  Ill be going, but I would like
to register, but I cant finish it till the wife can make her decision
Anybody here got the info or knows where I can get it??

Barry Schwartz, frustrated in San Diego...

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  6 11:28:29 2012
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Subject: [TR] Synchros
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For what is it worth, I know, not much.   Bad Syncros were the Main reason
Herman stopped doing Trannies, and started inventing his conversion kit b&


On Aug 6, 2012, at 2:31 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Aribert Neumann & list!
> I would be VERY leery of purchasing the synchros
> listed by TRF's  for TR4A & TR6's. The reason is that, it was posted many
> years ago, on this list, that the TR4A & TR6 synchros where slightly
> different. You may be lucky that these do work in your tranny, or not, but
> that's a chance you'll have to take AFTER you try out the rebuilt TR6
tranny.
> Now, if it works, GREAT! BUT!, If it doesn't, then you'll have to redo
> everything with the right synchros. I'll check in my "Cosmo TR4/A E-mail
> Repair manual" to see if it is there as a reference, or you can check
yourself
> if you go to:
> http://tinyurl.com/6c647jh
>
> It would most likely be under
> Gearbox\Standard.
>
> Now the TR4A synchros came out before the TR6's were even
> made. The TR6 trannys are 'SO POST TO BE" the same trannys, but the TR6's
did
> make changes through the many years of production. '72 to '73 was the
biggest
> amounts of changes. So may be the synchros that are different for the TR6's
> where never separated, or someone thought that because the TR4A & TR6
trannys
> were the same, then so would be the Synchros?
>
> But may be TRF made a
> correction since then?
> -----------
> Relating to :
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 5
> Aug 2012 07:58:36 -0500
> From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
> To: "aribert
> neumann" <aribertn@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> quality synchros currently available?
>
> The Roadster Factory claims to check
> theirs, and that they are higher
> quality, if you have a late GT6 they are
> really cheap.
>
> http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768
>
> As an
> aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble
> with
> 2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took
> it
> apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL
> mechanic
> and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles). He
> suggested I use
> the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting
> that 4th gear
> synchros didn't see much wear.
>
> Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non
> specialist) tranny shop use in
> rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was
> crazy using the old part,
> apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor
> quality of certain
> reproduction parts for old LBCs.
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  6 12:43:40 2012
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> For what is it worth, I know, not much.   Bad Syncros were the Main
> reason
> Herman stopped doing Trannies, and started inventing his conversion kit
> b&

Just to add what little I know: There was a largish run made of TR2-6
synchro rings that did not always work properly.  Lots of theories as to why
they frequently didn't work, but I don't recall there ever being a consensus
on what, exactly, was the problem with them.  I don't know who had them
made, but all of the usual suspects were apparently selling rings from the
same batch.  When Herman did a gearbox for me, he insisted that I find some
NOS synchro rings for him to use.

But, that was a long time ago.  Since then, a new run was made (commissioned
by TRF I believe, although it may have been a joint project among several
suppliers) and from what I've heard, the new rings work well.  I used
several of them in the last Stag gearbox I put together, and they worked
great for me.

But none of this really applies to the original question, as he was asking
about GT6 synchro rings and they do not interchange with the TR2-6 (and
Stag, etc) rings.

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 09:51:07 2012
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 08:48:29 -0700
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The clutch release bearing rides on a sleeve that has a roll pin in it to stop
the sleeve from rotating when the pin hits the pins in the clutch fork.
Current sleeves I have looked at have a hole drilled for the roll pin, but
there is no corresponding dimple or hole on the other side of the slot to
engage the pin.
Does anyone see this as a problem?  Should there be a dimple or hole across
the slot for additional strength?   Or is it simply not required?
I need to know pretty quick and am on digest so could you please respond to m
direct as well?

Thanks,
Peter

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Subject: [TR] TRF's Uncle Dave
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Anybody heard any updates on Uncle Dave?

Marty

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On Sun, 5 Aug 2012 at 22:23:02, trmarty@hotmail.com wrote:

>
>
> Just got back from this years TRF Summer Party. If you stayed home you
missed
> a good one! Cant wait to do it again next year.


Right you are. We just got home this afternoon. What a great drive, what great
events, what great social times!

Marty, thanks for setting up the poster for us to have a chance to send our
best wishes to Bob Harris. Hope he is better soon.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com

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On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 at 13:42, Steve Thornton wrote:

>
>
>
> Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party?
>
> Toga, toga, toga,....
>

Al ready here. Yesterday afternoon, I noticed the first few campers were
already on the field and a motorhome was just pulling in. Drive-in movie
tonight. :-)

Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 at 13:42, Steve Thornton wrote:

>
>
>
> Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party?
>
> Toga, toga, toga,....
>

Al ready here. Yesterday afternoon, I noticed the first few campers were
already on the field and a motorhome was just pulling in. Drive-in movie
tonight. :-)

Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay.
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Hello List:
Trying to sort out my overdrive circuits and suspicious about the o/d 
relay. It is the original Lucas item  - only 57 years old.
Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d relay?
Would like to pick one up at my local flaps; having modern push on 
connectors would help matters as well as I wouldn't have to modify the 
harness.
Any advice on this one?
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR250/6 t/o bearing sleeve
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 AS far as I've ever understood it, the pin is simply to stop the whole carrier from spinning right along with the throw out bearing while under load.
The bearing is designed to be the 'rotating' load point, not the fingers holding the carrier.
...personally, I add pins (or dent )  when I find none in existence on units I've dug into.
 
 
 Paul Tegler 
ptegler@verizon.net 
www.teglerizer.com

On 08/07/12, Pete Arakelian wrote:

The clutch release bearing rides on a sleeve that has a roll pin in it to stop
the sleeve from rotating when the pin hits the pins in the clutch fork.
Current sleeves I have looked at have a hole drilled for the roll pin, but
there is no corresponding dimple or hole on the other side of the slot to
engage the pin.
Does anyone see this as a problem? Should there be a dimple or hole across
the slot for additional strength? Or is it simply not required?
I need to know pretty quick and am on digest so could you please respond to m
direct as well?

Thanks,
Peter

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> Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d
> relay?

My experience was that the generic relays (and purpose-made reproductions)
would not last long in service, presumably due to the inductive kickback
from the OD solenoid.  However, adding a snubber diode seemed to solve the
problem permanently, and I have been using the same cheap generic relay for
many years now with no further problems.  Here is an old photo of the relay
and diode on my previous TR3A before it got wrecked.  The original wiring
was later updated, but I am still using that relay and diode today.  (The
diode is inside the black heat shrink tubing that you can see leading under
the relay and over to the mounting screw.)
http://goo.gl/HDHjb

The diode goes from the output of the relay (to the solenoid) to ground.  If
your car has been converted to negative ground, the stripe on the diode goes
towards the relay terminal.  If you are still running positive ground, the
stripe goes towards ground.

I also added an in-line fuse to the power feed from the ammeter.  In
addition to protecting the solenoid if the cutout contacts don't open for
whatever reason, it will also protect the wires if the battery is connected
backwards (causing the diode to conduct) or the diode fails shorted.

-- Randall 

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Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood of
my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
Quik-Latch go to
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A
luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.


I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I am
open to suggestions...

Gary
1961 Tr3

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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 11:43 AM, <gdewine@aol.com> wrote:

> I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I
> am
> open to suggestions...
>


In my opinion -- that is a perfect description of the Dzus fasteners.

I've certainly never had one come loose, get stuck or give me any trouble.

Geo

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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:07:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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my dzus work great.
a lot smaller than the ones you linked.
in fact the ones
you linked will not fit down in the valley of the hood as easily as the dzus.
its all personal taste after that
Frank
 

________________________________
From: "gdewine@aol.com" <gdewine@aol.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Tuesday, August 7, 2012 11:43 AM
Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood of
my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
Quik-Latch go to
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A
luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.


I want the hood held in place but
do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I am
open to suggestions...

Gary
1961
Tr3

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 14:05:35 2012
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From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
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They are keeping him an extra day as he hasn't seen a doctor in a couple of years.
So far he's doing well, it appears that he overdid it, and no wonder, he was involved with every aspect of summer party plus trying to answer a million questions from guys like me.
We all wish him well.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover@mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 14:05:54 2012
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oh please please do not use those hood pins.  I have a tr4 which I am 
undoing those hood pins.  they just look awful on a TR.  GTO or Chevelle, 
maybe.  but please oh please don't desecrate a TR that way

-----Original Message----- 
From: gdewine@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 1:43 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin

I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood 
of
my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
Quik-Latch go to
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A
luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.

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Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 16:15:33 -0400
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From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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Speaking from experience on my wife's spitfire race car, the studs with
hold down pins are a pain to deal with.  I would never use them on a car if
I didn't have to.

Just my $0.02 :)


On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:02 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> oh please please do not use those hood pins.  I have a tr4 which I am
> undoing those hood pins.  they just look awful on a TR.  GTO or Chevelle,
> maybe.  but please oh please don't desecrate a TR that way
>
> -----Original Message----- From: gdewine@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 1:43 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
>
> I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood
> of
> my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
> Quik-Latch go to
> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/**Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-**
> Quick-Latch-Polished-A<http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A>
> luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 15:35:18 2012
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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> I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive
> fastener.....

Hood pins would seem to me to be the definition of "obtrusive" as both the
pin and the clip stick up for anyone to see.  Some may like the look, but
certainly no one, not even those who ask "Izzat a MG?", will fail to
recognize that they don't belong there.

> I am
> open to suggestions...

The original Dzus buttons, properly adjusted and maintained (maintenance
being mostly doing something if they aren't tight enough), work very well
IMO.  My previous TR3A had the pins when I got it, and putting it back to
the original configuration was one of the very first things I did.  I
covered over 200,000 miles with that car, and never had a problem beyond
having to occasionally readjust or replace the hood buffers (which need to
hold tension against the Dzus buttons).

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 18:44:13 2012
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From: "Greg  Gelhar" <greg@gelhar.com>
To: "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay.
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YES, a modern relay will work as good, or better, than the Lucas unit. If 
you take the cover off the Lucas relay, the contact points only look to be 
good for about 5 amps. There might be one caution. Some cube relays have a 
diode in parallel with the coil. That makes the coil polarity sensitive.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:43 PM
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay.


> Hello List:
> Trying to sort out my overdrive circuits and suspicious about the o/d 
> relay. It is the original Lucas item  - only 57 years old.
> Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d 
> relay?
> Would like to pick one up at my local flaps; having modern push on 
> connectors would help matters as well as I wouldn't have to modify the 
> harness.
> Any advice on this one?
> Thanks in advance.
> Angelo Graham
>
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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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The fighter that I flew in the USAF used dzus fasteners everywhere.  Every
time I see them on my TR, it reminds me of those good old days of going fast &
pulling a lot of Gs.

John


On  7 Aug, 2012, at 2:43 PM, gdewine@aol.com wrote:

> I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood
of
> my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
> Quik-Latch go to
>
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A
> luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.
>
>
> I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I
am
> open to suggestions...
>
> Gary
> 1961 Tr3
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 20:50:33 2012
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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I've seen some smaller 1/4 turn fasteners than Dzus, and my buddy used them 
on his race car. It's an aircraft fastener,  "Camlok"; probably sold by 
Aircrafr Spruce, or maybe Mc Master-carr.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gdewine@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:43 PM
Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin


>I am wanting to use an alternative to the  dzus fasteners to hold the hood 
>of
> my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini
> Quik-Latch go to
> http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A
> luminum,51943.html  seem like OK options.
>
>
> I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I 
> am
> open to suggestions...
>
> Gary
> 1961 Tr3
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  7 23:28:34 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin
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> I've seen some smaller 1/4 turn fasteners than Dzus, and my 
> buddy used them 
> on his race car.

Dzus buttons also come in smaller diameters than those used on TR3s.  AS has
them down to 3/16" diameter.
http://goo.gl/c2d6H

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  8 07:36:27 2012
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If you want the latches less obtrusive, why not paint/powder coat the Dzus
fasteners in body color?

Ron L

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Or, convert back to the TR2 bonnet latch system?
Bill B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L'Herault
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 8:32 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hood hold down

If you want the latches less obtrusive, why not paint/powder coat the Dzus
fasteners in body color?

Ron L

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Subject: [TR] Uncle Dave at TRF picnic, condition?
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Been some mention about Uncle , Perfesser DAVE
of TRF, after/during the summer
picnic--in a few recent posts.  WHAT IS GOING 
ON?  pleasse inform the rest of
the posters/readers who are in the dark about 
Daves' condition, if you know
the honest skinney.  How about Charles, Albert OR
Tomy Beaver of Indy?  PLEASE
RSVP ASAP.
Johny with meny broken limbs in Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.A. 
RACING CAPITAL OF 
THE WORLD

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From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
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OK here is the scoop.
Dave as you all know works the summer party in almost every area from greeting campers to organizing all sorts of things, including selling parts and answering questions for the masses.
He worked the autocross and it was pretty hot out there, when he returned to TRF that same day and before the dinner, collapsed and was taken to the hospital by the paramedics. There he remained until yesterday I believe, to get fully checked out, heat exhaustion was the diagnosis and he is back to work today so I am told.
I haven't spoken to him yet today but I will.
Some of this info was passed to me from his daughter so it's pretty accurate.
We all hope he is in great health and feels much better.



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover@mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  8 14:08:32 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Uncle Dave at TRF picnic, condition?
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On Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:35:56, Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net> wrote:

> Been some mention about Uncle , Perfesser DAVE
> of TRF, after/during the summer
> picnic--in a few recent posts.  WHAT IS GOING
> ON?  pleasse inform the rest of
> the posters/readers who are in the dark about
> Daves' condition, if you know
> the honest skinney.  How about Charles, Albert OR
> Tomy Beaver of Indy?
Shortly after we sat down under the tents for dinner, an ambulance arrived and
departed a while later with Dave in tow. It was a combination of heat
exhaustion and fatigue. They pumped him full of fluids at the hospital and
because he had not seen a doctor in a few years, they kept him in the hospital
for another day or so. He was by TRF yesterday and apparently he was "looking
and feeling much better" to quote Will Jones.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  8 14:57:47 2012
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Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results
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FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on
the TRF web site.

Marty

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Subject: [TR] Spotted: Light Blue TR3A Bound for TX
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Posted on the BCF but also here in case the owner in among y'all.

Spotted this light blue TR3A on a car hauler here in Tucson.  Was in the
street whilst another car was unloaded, was back on the truck by the time I
returned with a camera.  Has California black plates, the truck driver said
it's going to Texas.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/BlueTR3A1.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/BlueTR3A2.jpg

Looked to be a very nice car, albeit very dirty -- the '60 Chevy above
it is a 'leaker'.

I stuck my TR3A 'business' card in among the parts boxes on the front seat
so maybe I'll make contact with the new owner one day.

Geo

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From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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ahhhhh
i love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party.
i used to live and
work in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children and could not afford to
get into the hobby. but i always turned out to look and wish.
it is one of the
nicest places i have lived.
of course the Coventry inn was a construction site
back then.
is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the
coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there.
ill make it back
with car one of these years
 
Frank
 

________________________________
 From:
marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM
Subject:
[TR] TRF S.P. Results
  
FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with
pictures are already up on
the TRF web site.

Marty

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While many in the past have expressed that Greyhound was one of the most
economical ways to ship Triumph items long distance, I thought I pass along
with my first time nightmare of doing this. On July 24 I sent $259 including
shipping, via Paypal, to Donato Motors in Logansport, Indiana for a TR4 bonnet
and hinges. Unfortunately, the bonnet just sat there for another three days,
and I had to eventually pay another $100 to have someone take the bonnet to
Greyhound to ship it. Good news at first, since I was informed it only took
three days from Indiana to Reno, Nevada. Time has been a critical element,
since my Triumph is my daily driver and only car, but was disabled when it was
ran into. Lo, and behold when I called Greyhound, they basically said at least
a minimum of ten days. More than ten days have passed and no sign of it.
Greyhound told me they have no idea where it maybe, but will put a tracer on
it, but that will take a week. So I just want to alert others that one should
examine multiple options on shipping, as I wish I had did.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
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Click on the previous(this subject )  to hopefuly , see/hear uncle Daves
favorite tune, click on it to activate(hopefuly).

Thanks to all that reported
HIS condition.

John in Indianapolis with meny limb
 fractures and 4 and a
half month in intensivecare/rehab--had to relearn how to 
walk.  I tell you
one thing---IWILL BE at 

the summer picnic though the wife Maija
will have to
drive me there.  Hope  the forward site goes through and becomes 
vailable,
Don't yell & cuss if it does not.
Then  MEA CULPA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  8 20:11:32 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TRF S.P. Results
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Yup, Culpeppers is still alive and well. Stromboli and cold beer is a bit of a
tradition for us when we go to the S.P. every year.

Marty
________________________________
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 15:07:46 -0700
> From: yellowtr3@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF S.P. Results
> To: trmarty@hotmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
>
> ahhhhh
> i love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party.
> i used to live and work in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children
> and could not afford to get into the hobby. but i always turned out to
> look and wish.
> it is one of the nicest places i have lived.
> of course the Coventry inn was a construction site back then.
> is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the
> coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there.
> ill make it back with car one of these years
>
> Frank
>
> From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
> To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM
> Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results
>
> FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on
> the TRF web site.
>
> Marty
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net> **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  9 07:03:48 2012
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Subject: [TR] current draw of TR4A blower and wiper
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Does anyone know the current draw for the stock, good condition, heater blower and wiper motors in the TR2-4A cars? 

-Tony 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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sigh !

 

________________________________
 From: marty sukey
<trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com; "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 7:14 PM
Subject:
RE: [TR] TRF S.P. Results
  

Yup, Culpeppers is still alive and well.
Stromboli and cold beer is a bit of a tradition for us when we go to the S.P.
every year.

Marty
________________________________
> Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012
15:07:46 -0700 
> From: yellowtr3@yahoo.com 
> Subject: Re: [TR] TRF S.P.
Results 
> To: trmarty@hotmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net 
> 
> ahhhhh 
> i
love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party. 
> i used to live and work
in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children 
> and could not afford to get
into the hobby. but i always turned out to 
> look and wish. 
> it is one of
the nicest places i have lived. 
> of course the Coventry inn was a
construction site back then. 
> is Culpeppers still open a few doors down?
they used to serve the 
> coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily
invested there. 
> ill make it back with car one of these years 
> 
> Frank 
>
> From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> 
> To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
> Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM 
>
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results 
> 
> FYI, the results from the Summer Party
along with pictures are already up on 
> the TRF web site. 
> 
> Marty 
> 
>
** triumphs@autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net> ** 
> 
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>     
                     

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  9 13:23:16 2012
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On Wed, 8 Aug 2012, at 3:07 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

>
> is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the
> coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there.
> ill make it back
> with car one of these years

Yes, it is. Based on your description of when you were last there, it is
greatly expanded - having taken over the business next door.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 21:44:42 +0100
Thread-Topic: TR2 front wheels
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Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels
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Hi all, still enjoying motoring on the now driving 15 year project, shake down
is going well with little tweaks here and there. The biggest issue is heavy
(very) slow speed steering. I had the tracking set-up on old Dunlop gauges,
but still feels a little odd and also a front end "slow wobble" at low speeds.
I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at the
top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom. Any
ideas??? I was wondering because I built up the suspension, with poly bushes
etc, while there was no body or engine on the chassis, could tis be an issue,
all ideas welcome, especially what I should look for.
Regards
John
(still smiling)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  9 14:54:13 2012
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] current draw of TR4A blower and wiper
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> Does anyone know the current draw for the stock, good condition, heater
> blower and wiper motors in the TR2-4A cars?

Best I can recall, my stock TR3 heater fan drew about 4 amps at 12.0 volts.
I think it was my rewound version that drew closer to 7 amps.
But that was a long time ago (cue Bob Dylan "When blackness was a virtue and
the road was full of mud.") so possibly not worth much.

TR4 heater of course is completely different than the TR3, and I've never
tried to measure one of those.

Don't forget, the current will depend heavily on load.  Startup or bad
bearings will likely make it much higher.  Running without the fan blades
will make it lower (and may be a bad idea if the motor is series-wound).

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  9 15:04:02 2012
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'John Gillis'" <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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> I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at
> the
> top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom.
> Any
> ideas???

1/2" is about right, the other side is wrong.  You might try checking the
angle of the spring towers if you can, otherwise I don't know what to
suggest.  I'm assuming you examined the frame carefully while the body was
off and would have spotted any cracks or sharp bends (especially around the
lower suspension pivot pins), but it might be tweaked that much without
being obvious.

FWIW, twice now I've had a lower pivot that was ripped entirely loose from
the frame, but practically impossible to spot with the car assembled.  First
time, even the alignment shop didn't spot it.  Second time (years later,
different car), I found it while stripping the wreck for parts.  Most likely
it got broken in the accident, but I had driven the car after that (to the
body shop & back).

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 10 06:06:35 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 front wheels
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John:  some after-market ball joints have the hole for the split pin too far
out, with the result that one may not tighten the ball joint enough - but
that would lead to positive camber, not negative.  Don't know what to
suggest other than to check the two sides and make sure they are the same.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 4:45 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels

Hi all, still enjoying motoring on the now driving 15 year project, shake
down is going well with little tweaks here and there. The biggest issue is
heavy
(very) slow speed steering. I had the tracking set-up on old Dunlop gauges,
but still feels a little odd and also a front end "slow wobble" at low
speeds.
I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at the
top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom. Any
ideas??? I was wondering because I built up the suspension, with poly bushes
etc, while there was no body or engine on the chassis, could tis be an
issue, all ideas welcome, especially what I should look for.
Regards
John
(still smiling)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Hello,

I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its 
age. But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after 
market wooden knobs.

So I wanted to restore it to its original condition.

I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon 
started to peal and look worse than the original dried out knob.

So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles 
for better grip.

First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with 
lacquer thinner to remove all grease etc.

Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in 
a vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks 
like brand new!

Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when.

A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new
one/NFI.  

I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black
rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom of
the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration

Hello,

I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its age.
But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market wooden
knobs.

So I wanted to restore it to its original condition.

I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started to
peal and look worse than the original dried out knob.

So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles for
better grip.

First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with lacquer
thinner to remove all grease etc.

Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a
vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks like
brand new!

Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when.

A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:52:10 -0500
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Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events
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Forgive my ignorance but I have never been able to attend a VTR event, just
local car shows.  I am half way through the registration process and being
asked what events I want to participate in.
 
I presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but what
are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class requirements?
 
I know what an Autocross is, but what is a TSD Rallye, Gimmick Rallye and
Funkhana? 
 
Maybe someone can point me to a link that will help me to understand all
this, really looking forward to a fun week.
 
Thx,
Bill
Driving to VTR
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

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Bill,

Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make 
it look like it is plastic or bakelite.

Bob

On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote:
> Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new
> one/NFI.
>
> I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black
> rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom of
> the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM
> To: Triumphs List
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
>
> Hello,
>
> I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its age.
> But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market wooden
> knobs.
>
> So I wanted to restore it to its original condition.
>
> I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started to
> peal and look worse than the original dried out knob.
>
> So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles for
> better grip.
>
> First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with lacquer
> thinner to remove all grease etc.
>
> Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a
> vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks like
> brand new!
>
> Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when.
>
> A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 10 14:40:10 2012
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From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
To: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>,
	"Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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It's rubber.  An excellent reproduction of original.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
To: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>; "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration


> Bill,
>
> Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make it 
> look like it is plastic or bakelite.
>
> Bob
>
> On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote:
>> Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new
>> one/NFI.
>>
>> I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black
>> rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom 
>> of
>> the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> Bill Beecher
>> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
>> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
>> www.triumphowners.com/1566
>> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
>> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too 
>> slow"
>> M.Andretti
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM
>> To: Triumphs List
>> Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its 
>> age.
>> But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market 
>> wooden
>> knobs.
>>
>> So I wanted to restore it to its original condition.
>>
>> I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started 
>> to
>> peal and look worse than the original dried out knob.
>>
>> So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles 
>> for
>> better grip.
>>
>> First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with 
>> lacquer
>> thinner to remove all grease etc.
>>
>> Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a
>> vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks 
>> like
>> brand new!
>>
>> Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when.
>>
>> A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot@citlink.net 

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Ed Oot <eoot@citlink.net>
Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the
modern rubber version.  The two are generally the same, but different
in almost every detail.  The profile of the taper is "steeper" -- more
conical -- on the modern knob.  The size and typeface for the shift
pattern is different, too.  The modern one is definitely a harder
rubber.  The original looks more like some composition of a filler and
a rubbery binder, possibly painted black.  I've had it for 30 plus
years, given to me by one of the founders of what's now the TRA.

There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs --
smarter folk than I will have to chime in here.

My original sits on the shelves in my shop.  The modern is on the car.
 It's plenty good enough to use, and fits a lot better than an AMCO
knob.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On 8/10/12, Ed Oot <eoot@citlink.net> wrote:
> It's rubber.  An excellent reproduction of original.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
> To: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>; "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 4:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
>
>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make it
>>
>> look like it is plastic or bakelite.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote:
>>> Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a
>>> new
>>> one/NFI.
>>>
>>> I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black
>>> rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom
>>> of
>>> the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> Bill Beecher
>>> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
>>> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
>>> www.triumphowners.com/1566
>>> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
>>> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
>>> slow"
>>> M.Andretti
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
>>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
>>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM
>>> To: Triumphs List
>>> Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
>>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its
>>> age.
>>> But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market
>>> wooden
>>> knobs.
>>>
>>> So I wanted to restore it to its original condition.
>>>
>>> I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started
>>>
>>> to
>>> peal and look worse than the original dried out knob.
>>>
>>> So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles
>>> for
>>> better grip.
>>>
>>> First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with
>>> lacquer
>>> thinner to remove all grease etc.
>>>
>>> Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in
>>> a
>>> vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks
>>> like
>>> brand new!
>>>
>>> Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back
>>> when.
>>>
>>> A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes.
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 10 15:42:23 2012
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> I presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but what
> are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class requirements?

This info should be on the VTR site somewhere, but I didn't see it.  Basically "Preservation" and "Senior" are for previous winners, so you won't be eligible for those.  "Concours" cars get judged against a list of "how it should be", while I believe there is also a "Participants Choice" category where other owners get to vote for their favorite car regardless of how "correct" it is.

> I know what an Autocross is, but what is a TSD Rallye, Gimmick Rallye and
> Funkhana? 

"TSD" is "Time, Speed, Distance", a "traditional" road rally where you are judged on how well you follow directions.  For example, you might be directed to drive a stretch of road at 40 mph, and judged on how closely you held 40 mph (by checking how long it took you to drive the distance).

A "Gimmick" rally is more or less similar, but typically adds tricky questions and/or tests of your powers of observation.  For example, the directions might say to turn left at the prancing pony, where the image of a horse is on anything from a mail box to a movie marquee.  Or it might be a local pub called "The Prancing Pony".  Or it might be a horse show at the fairgrounds, you never quite know until you see it.  And there may be questions like "How many driveways were on your left?" or "How many miles to Tulare?".

Both types of rally are typically run on public roads, not closed courses, so of course you are also responsible for driving safely, following all traffic laws, etc.

A Funkhana is a different kind of event, with more emphasis on precision low speed control of the car.  Typically run in a closed parking lot, one car at a time.  A favorite with those who are reluctant to drive their cars on the open road; but qualifies as a "driving event".  (Completion of one driving event is required to be eligible to win the car show.)  Generally there will be tasks for your passenger to perform as well, like holding a cup of water, guiding you while you drive blindfolded, or tossing a ring onto a bottle.

All three of these events are much easier if you have a navigator.  If you don't already have one, it pays to ask around early and see if you can line someone up.  You can even navigate for someone else in return for them navigating for you, if you want to.  Good way to make new friends, or get better acquainted with people you already know.

--- Randall

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If you as the driver have even a hint of competitive nature then I would  
suggest you stay away from all of the three listed driving events.  I  have 
seen many normally happy couples return in a decidedly sour mood  because the 
dum dum navigator missed a turn, misread the "simple" directions, or  worse 
yet wants to babble on about the scenery, weather, Aunt Paula's  problems,  
etc. etc. rather than pay attention.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <Loumetelko@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 20:13:00 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Events
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Oh, she's going shopping.  I was thinking maybe I could team up with someone
there as a single.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 7:24 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Events

If you as the driver have even a hint of competitive nature then I would
suggest you stay away from all of the three listed driving events.  I  have
seen many normally happy couples return in a decidedly sour mood  because
the dum dum navigator missed a turn, misread the "simple" directions, or
worse yet wants to babble on about the scenery, weather, Aunt Paula's
problems, etc. etc. rather than pay attention.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 11 08:39:14 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Events
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Bill,
Go to the VTR website, _www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org) , and  under the 
"Features" section click on "competition rules" where you will find  the VTR 
Concours Rules which have descriptions of the various classes for the  VTR 
judged Concours.
Hope This Helps,
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2012 3:57:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wbeech@flash.net writes:

I  presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but  
what
are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class  
requirements?

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 11 09:06:51 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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I also prefer the original, the walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO.

My original however doesn't fit because it is a TR4 gearbox.  Did they
really change the threads or am I a klutz?

Cheers!

Adrian 

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Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics
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Listers,
A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive amount
of force to disengage the clutch.  Considerably more force than other TR6's I
have driven and more than my TR4A.  We installed a new, stock pressure plate
last winter.

Could hydraulics be a fault?  The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore of
.75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore.  Slave cylinder diameters
are apparently all the same.
Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a
later, smaller bore MC?

It's not fun driving his car.  Could something be binding mechanically?  The
slave pushrod is in the center hole.
Thanks for any insight and advice.
George Haynes

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Adrian Jones'" <adrianjones747@earthlink.net>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B.  Maybe they used a different stalk on the
TR4's?
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 10:09 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration

I also prefer the original, the walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO.

My original however doesn't fit because it is a TR4 gearbox.  Did they
really change the threads or am I a klutz?

Cheers!

Adrian 

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Could have been round about the time that Standard-Triumph found itself buying
paint by the litre and upholstery by the meter, so decided to use threads that
were a halfway house between metric and unified - with the result that nothing
fitted as heretofore? :)
 
Jonmac
________________________________

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List,

B 

Every TR3, including A and B, that I've ever seen had a straight shift lever
with extra fine threads. Every TR4 had a shift lever with a bend in it, and
coarse threads. The levers are interchangeable up to the time Triumph elected
to fore go the bolt that passes through the casting and the shift lever.

B 

Ed Woods

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Yep, both of mine are straight.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 11, 2012, at 11:22 AM, fogbro1@comcast.net wrote:

> List,
>
> B
>
> Every TR3, including A and B, that I've ever seen had a straight shift
lever
> with extra fine threads. Every TR4 had a shift lever with a bend in it, and
> coarse threads. The levers are interchangeable up to the time Triumph
elected
> to fore go the bolt that passes through the casting and the shift lever.
>
> B
>
> Ed Woods
>
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On 8/11/12 8:52 AM, Wbeech wrote:
> My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B.  Maybe they used a different stalk on the
> TR4's?
>
Yep.  That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my TR3 over to 
a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues.  The TR3 lever fits a TR4 box.

TeriAnn

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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... and a typical TR3B -- all of them for all I know, and certainly my
April 1962 TSF -- had a "rationalized" (TR4) gearbox right from the
start. This was the same full-synchro box that debuted a few months
earlier in the TR4, but with a one-piece TR3-style shift lever.

Don

On 8/11/12, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 8/11/12 8:52 AM, Wbeech wrote:
>> My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B.  Maybe they used a different stalk on the
>> TR4's?
>>
> Yep.  That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my TR3 over to
> a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues.  The TR3 lever fits a TR4
> box.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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     I had the same problem. I had a cranked TR4 stick shift and the TR3 knob
had the wrong threads. I machined a threaded adapter at the time. I have since
switched to the correct TR3 stick and may still have the threaded adapter
still lying around in my shop if you still need it.
     The TR3 takes a long
tapered knob and the TR4 had I round knob ISTR.


     -Bill Brewer -
Tehachapi


Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:09:13 -0400
From: "Adrian Jones"
<adrianjones747@earthlink.net>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR3 Shift knob restoration
Message-ID: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net>
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I also prefer the original, the
walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO.

My original however doesn't fit
because it is a TR4 gearbox.  Did they
really change the threads or am I a
klutz?

Cheers!

Adrian

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Had a good look at the front suspension, the only thing I found was loose stub
axle front nut, anyway as often noticed something else to baffle me. Why might
the overflow pipe from the petrol tank be dripping even though the tank is
only half full, is this a vacuum issue? BTW had a great drive into the Dublin
mountains, top down, wind in what is laft of my hair and sun, yes sun, in my
face, so this is what it is all about!
John
'54 TR2

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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 16:20:41 -0500
To: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Next Question
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The vent comes from the top of the tank, maybe a little spirited mountain
driving (Wicklow?) sloshed some out.

I can tell you finally enjoying what you a have spent 15 years preparing for.
Enjoy!

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 11, 2012, at 3:47 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie> wrote:

> Had a good look at the front suspension, the only thing I found was loose
stub
> axle front nut, anyway as often noticed something else to baffle me. Why
might
> the overflow pipe from the petrol tank be dripping even though the tank is
> only half full, is this a vacuum issue? BTW had a great drive into the
Dublin
> mountains, top down, wind in what is laft of my hair and sun, yes sun, in
my
> face, so this is what it is all about!
> John
> '54 TR2
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 11 15:35:22 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics
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The TR6 was notorious for the heavy clutch.  Puts hair on your chest, they 
would say.  There are two brands of clutch available for the TR6 and one is 
heavier than the other.  I forget which (maybe someone here can fill in the 
blanks) but it sounds like your firend got the heavier one.  The first time 
I replaced the clutch in my TR6 I got lucky (or good advice perhaps it was a 
long time ago) and when I first hooked up the hydraulics and pushed the 
clutch pedal I though something was amiss.  Be verifying that the output flange 
turned free of the engine in gear with the pedal depressed proved that it 
did indeed work.

If there was something wrong with the hydraulics or the mechanical linkage 
then the pressure need to depress the clutch would be noticably greater than 
the pressure needed to resist its return upon release.  Do you notice this?

Dave

In a message dated 8/11/2012 10:11:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ghaynestr4@aol.com writes: 
> Listers,
> A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive 
> amount
> of force to disengage the clutch.  Considerably more force than other 
> TR6's I
> have driven and more than my TR4A.  We installed a new, stock pressure 
> plate
> last winter.
> 
> Could hydraulics be a fault?  The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore 
> of
> .75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore.  Slave cylinder 
> diameters
> are apparently all the same.
> Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a
> later, smaller bore MC?
> 
> It's not fun driving his car.  Could something be binding mechanically?  
> The
> slave pushrod is in the center hole.
> Thanks for any insight and advice.
> George Haynes

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 11 15:47:25 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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> Maybe they used a different 
> stalk on the
> TR4's?

Yup.  And although the threads remained the same, there were several
different shift levers after that point as well.

The Stag is even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are all different
depending on whether you have overdrive or not!  (and different again with
the automatic)

-- Randall  

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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> I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the
> modern rubber version.

Any chance you could post a photo somewhere?  I'm kind of curious, as I
believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob.  The pattern is
worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro
that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest.

> There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs --
> smarter folk than I will have to chime in here.

The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece
shift lever).  Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third
knob (at least not in my copy).

-- Randall  

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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> Yep.  That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my 
> TR3 over to 
> a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues.

I took the other approach, my TR6 gearbox is wearing a TR3 top cover.  That
way I got to keep the dipstick.

But a previous TR3A had a TR4 box with TR4 lever, and I don't recall having
any clearance problems with it, either.  The lever was taller, but cranked
backwards at an angle so it wouldn't quite go far enough forward to hit the
dash.  I even had a push-pull switch for the OD tie-wrapped to the top of
the lever, so I could move the switch with my middle & ring fingers while
simultaneously shifting gears.

-- Randall  

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 3:01 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> But a previous TR3A had a TR4 box with TR4 lever, and I don't recall having
> any clearance problems with it, either.


I think a TR3 lever in a TR4 is the one that would be a knuckle-buster.


> ...I even had a push-pull switch for the OD tie-wrapped to the top of
> the lever, so I could move the switch with my middle & ring fingers while
> simultaneously shifting gears.
>

Handy, but I need to keep my middle finger available for other driving
duties.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 11 17:04:34 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics
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Ok,

I got my 6 out of the garage today since it is her turn for the driving 
season. So now I can comment on your 6 clutch issues.

Here are my  comments on clutches on the 3, 4 and 6;

The 3 is the best by far. Easy pedal and normal engagement. Smooth and 
easy on the foot.

The 4 is by far the hardest push. Release is at almost to the floor. I 
have checked everything and that is the best I can get it.

The 6 is right in the middle. Engagement is about the same as the 3 but 
the pedal is a bit harder to push.

As you can guess, the 3 is my favorite as far as clutches are but my 
favorite drive is the 4.

Clutches were all new from TRF when installed.

No problems with MC or SC in either. Rebuilt original equipment.

So, I agree the 6 is a harder push when compared to the 3. A 70 bore 
would give you better pressure but less throw. Since my 6 is a 72 I am 
guessing I have the .075 bore.

For my 2 cents, as long as they work and dont leak, I am happy.

When the bury me, maybe my left leg will be bigger than my right.

Bob

On 08/11/2012 05:37 PM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
> The TR6 was notorious for the heavy clutch.  Puts hair on your chest, they
> would say.  There are two brands of clutch available for the TR6 and one is
> heavier than the other.  I forget which (maybe someone here can fill in the
> blanks) but it sounds like your firend got the heavier one.  The first time
> I replaced the clutch in my TR6 I got lucky (or good advice perhaps it was a
> long time ago) and when I first hooked up the hydraulics and pushed the
> clutch pedal I though something was amiss.  Be verifying that the output flange
> turned free of the engine in gear with the pedal depressed proved that it
> did indeed work.
>
> If there was something wrong with the hydraulics or the mechanical linkage
> then the pressure need to depress the clutch would be noticably greater than
> the pressure needed to resist its return upon release.  Do you notice this?
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 8/11/2012 10:11:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
> ghaynestr4@aol.com writes:
>> Listers,
>> A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive
>> amount
>> of force to disengage the clutch.  Considerably more force than other
>> TR6's I
>> have driven and more than my TR4A.  We installed a new, stock pressure
>> plate
>> last winter.
>>
>> Could hydraulics be a fault?  The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore
>> of
>> .75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore.  Slave cylinder
>> diameters
>> are apparently all the same.
>> Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a
>> later, smaller bore MC?
>>
>> It's not fun driving his car.  Could something be binding mechanically?
>> The
>> slave pushrod is in the center hole.
>> Thanks for any insight and advice.
>> George Haynes

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Just so you don't forget b&


COSMIC LAWS
Truer words were never spoken....
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------
1. Law of Mechanical Repair -  After your hands become coated with grease,
your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee...
2. Law of Gravity - Any tool, nut, bolt, screw, when dropped, will roll to the
least accessible place in the universe.


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.net

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Yep #2, I dropped the generator mounting pedestal on Monday, haven't found
it yet.  As soon as I spend $15 for a new one it WILL turn up.
Bill B

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 6:12 PM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] Cosmic Laws

Just so you don't forget b&


COSMIC LAWS
Truer words were never spoken....
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----------------------------------------------------
1. Law of Mechanical Repair -  After your hands become coated with grease,
your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee...
2. Law of Gravity - Any tool, nut, bolt, screw, when dropped, will roll to
the least accessible place in the universe.


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.net

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Wbeech wrote:
> Yep #2, I dropped the generator mounting pedestal on Monday, haven't found
> it yet.  As soon as I spend $15 for a new one it WILL turn up.
>

Indeed.  As soon as you set the newly purchased replacement tool or part 
or whatever
on the workbench, the old missing one will jump right up next to it.

mjb.

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From: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] uh oh - reassembled the GT6 gearbox and there is too much
 axial play
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Greeting all:

I am in the process of refreshening my early GT6 gearbox.  I did all the
gap / tolerance checks per the Bently manual.  Between the split ring and
the miserable 3rd gear circlip the main shaft asm is in tolerance.  From
the split rings rearward to first gear the axial gap is 0.001 out of
tolerance (spec is 0.00 to 0.002) - no big deal.  But when I asm the main
shaft in the gear box housing, there appears to be an excessive gap of
approx 0.150 between the 3-4 shift hub and 4th gear. First pic is of the
main main shaft asm in the housing:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/GT6gearboxreassembly.jpg
THe second picture is a composit of where the gap is and how it looks when
sliding the 4th gear synchro back and forth.

I am convinced that the problem is not on the mainshaft from the 3rd gear
circlip to the split washers to the rear mainshaft bearing (I have had all
the bushings and thrust washers on the shaft to check the axial play).  I
don't have any pcs left over and the mainshaft bearings are fully seated in
the gearbox housing.  I'm lost on this - I know the 4th gear synchro can
not have 0.150+ of axial play - it would get chewed up.  Your thoughts?
The big TR gear boxes apprears to be a scaled up version of the Spit/GT6
boxes - so throw me some ideas of things to investigate.

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Randall wrote:
The Stag is even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are
all different
depending on whether you have overdrive or not!  (and different
again with
the automatic)

Which puts Stag gear lever types in common with
2500S, 2000 and the whole Dolomite range - Sprint, 1850 and 1500 rwd.
Jonmac
     
________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, 11 August 2012, 22:44
Subject:
Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration


>> Maybe they used a different 
>> stalk
on the
>> TR4's?
>
>Yup.  And although the threads remained the same, there
were several
>different shift levers after that point as well.
>
>The Stag is
even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are all different
>depending on
whether you have overdrive or not!  (and different again with
>the automatic)
>
>-- Randall  
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs!
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Now this really would be worth owning! A *real* Triumph - and not a lot of
money for what it is. See Ebay 230837504027

Jonmac

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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics
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Dave,

While I was out for a ride today, I thought of another possible cause to 
the hard push on the TR6 clutch.

Problem may be that the transmission was not aligned with the engine 
when installed.

You must make sure the 2 larger bolts are installed first before 
installing the rest of the bolts to the transmission. If I remember 
correctly they are on the left and right sides respectively. On some 
engines,  they might be a stud. But on mine they were bolts. This is 
very important. The clutch may be binding against the fly wheel if the 
alignment is off.

Bob

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Subject: Re: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs!
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Yes John, You need to give this car a home and the restoration expertise
that it needs.  Very nice car, if it were on US soil I would have to go see
it.

Notice the VIN plate, has the Logo that Triumph Motorcycles use still today.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 10:17 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs!

Now this really would be worth owning! A *real* Triumph - and not a lot of
money for what it is. See Ebay 230837504027

Jonmac

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Subject: [TR] 1974 TR-6 for sale
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Hello fellow Triumph listers,
After 34 years, the time has come for me to part with my beloved '74 TR-6.  A 
rollover accident in which I was broadsided in my Toyota 4Runner by a red 
light-runner has prompted my decision - I wouldn't be here to write this if I'd 
been in the TR.  Anyway, this is a Southern California car with the factory 
hardtop, purchased from the second owner in 1978 and completely restored in 
1998.  I've put less than 2,000 miles on her since the rebuild.  I have most of 
the work orders/receipts detailing the rebuild.  I'm asking $15,000.  There is 
too much for me to list here, so if you're interested, please e-mail me at: 
cairnsbk@sbcglobal.net  
I will be happy to e-mail photos and speak with you if you're serious.

Best regards,
Bruce Cairns

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When that car was built, it was all still the same company (even including the
bicycles, I think)!


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs!

 Notice the VIN plate, has the Logo that Triumph Motorcycles use still today.

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From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
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Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration!  Now still
need lots of assembly but that major event is done!

However I'm wondering
about my electric fan.  It's running backward..........(mounted behind the
radiator and blowing forward)  Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the
other way?  Sucking toward the engine?  My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is
negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black
wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for
ignition switch and larger red for power source).

ALSO............would it
work ok blowing forward?  Since most times when the fan is needed the car
would be stopped or almost stopped in traffic and not moving very fast there
fore the fan would not be fighting against air flow very often or long. 
thanks!

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Check with the manufacturer, but it should be a simple matter of swapping
the hot & ground wires.

No, you cannot have it blowing forward.  When you are driving this will just
put more strain on the fan than it is designed to take and you will be
shopping for a re-placement before too long after it burns up from the over
load. 

Congratulations on the first start-up!

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 8:12 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] electric fan

Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration!  Now still
need lots of assembly but that major event is done!

However I'm wondering
about my electric fan.  It's running backward..........(mounted behind the
radiator and blowing forward)  Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the
other way?  Sucking toward the engine?  My tr-3 is positive ground and fan
is negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black
wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for
ignition switch and larger red for power source).

ALSO............would it
work ok blowing forward?  Since most times when the fan is needed the car
would be stopped or almost stopped in traffic and not moving very fast there
fore the fan would not be fighting against air flow very often or long. 
thanks!

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 08:24:44 2012
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Bruce,

Sorry to hear about your accident.

And also sorry to hear that you are selling your Triumph.

I have given up motorcycles for a similar reason although I have only
had some close calls.

Drivers these days are paying attention to everything but driving. They
run stop signs, lights, cut you off mostly just because they think they
own the road or something. They just dont look. They think they are in
their living room playing on their Xbox or something.

I sold my 98 Tbird this spring and am keeping my 74 Bonny until the
market improves. But I will not stop driving my 3 Triumph cars. But yes,
I do worry when I am in a Triumph.

I hope you are ok after the accident.

Bob

On 08/12/2012 06:05 PM, Bruce Cairns wrote:
> Hello fellow Triumph listers,
> After 34 years, the time has come for me to part with my beloved '74 TR-6.  A
> rollover accident in which I was broadsided in my Toyota 4Runner by a red
> light-runner has prompted my decision - I wouldn't be here to write this if I'd
> been in the TR.  Anyway, this is a Southern California car with the factory
> hardtop, purchased from the second owner in 1978 and completely restored in
> 1998.  I've put less than 2,000 miles on her since the rebuild.  I have most of
> the work orders/receipts detailing the rebuild.  I'm asking $15,000.  There is
> too much for me to list here, so if you're interested, please e-mail me at:
> cairnsbk@sbcglobal.net
> I will be happy to e-mail photos and speak with you if you're serious.
>
> Best regards,
> Bruce Cairns

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Gary
for all the fans i have had on my TR3 i have been able to just flip the
wires around and change it from pull to push.
Frank

From: Gary Nafziger
<nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 6:11 PM
Subject: [TR] electric fan

Finally got
the 3 running for the first time after restoration!  Now still
need lots of
assembly but that major event is done!

However I'm wondering
about my
electric fan.  It's running backward..........(mounted behind the
radiator and
blowing forward)  Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the
other way? 
Sucking toward the engine?  My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is
negative
ground and grounded on the inner fender with black
wire............and has two
red wires for power.........(smaller red for
ignition switch and larger red
for power source).

ALSO............would it
work ok blowing forward?  Since
most times when the fan is needed the car
would be stopped or almost stopped
in traffic and not moving very fast there
fore the fan would not be fighting
against air flow very often or long. 
thanks!

gary n.

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Subject: Re: [TR] electric fan
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Just reverse the wires from the fan b& Blowing forward is not a good idea
b&

On Aug 12, 2012, at 6:11 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration!  Now still
> need lots of assembly but that major event is done!
>
> However I'm wondering
> about my electric fan.  It's running backward..........(mounted behind the
> radiator and blowing forward)  Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the
> other way?  Sucking toward the engine?  My tr-3 is positive ground and fan
is
> negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black
> wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for
> ignition switch and larger red for power source).
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.net

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From: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:18:06 -0700
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Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost it.
Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from Greyhound and
who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait. The TR4 is my only
car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one west of the Rockies,
but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have it shipped reliable and
quickly.

Tim Purdy

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 13 17:10:19 2012
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Tim, you may want to try Drake's British Motors in Kelowna, BC.
http://www.drakesbritishmotors.com/main.shtml
Len has scads of parts and there's a very good likelihood that he may be able
to fix you up.

Cheers,
Dave


On 2012-08-13, at 4:18 PM, Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net> wrote:

> Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost it.
> Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from Greyhound
and
> who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait. The TR4 is my
only
> car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one west of the Rockies,
> but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have it shipped reliable
and
> quickly.
>
> Tim Purdy
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search
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Another possible source is Robbie McLeod in Arkansas near Little Rock. Not
exactly next door for CA but I visited with the British Motoring Club of
Arkansas in 2009 and their clubhouse is bang next door to Robbie's place.
Acres and acres of old LBC's quietly dissolving into nothingness. I saw
several Frog Eye bonnets there and these are like hens teeth. The BMCA website
is currently under rebuild but I can give you an email address off list of one
of the club officials who may be able to make a connection for you. There's
lots of stuff outside but also an enormous covered warehouse as well. Rumour
had it that Robbie often supplied Moss with unobtanium.
 
Jonmac     
________________________________
 From: Dave More <triumph@lbcs.ca>
To: Tim
Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net> 
Cc: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Tuesday, 14 August 2012, 0:03
Subject: Re: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search


>Tim, you
may want to try Drake's British Motors in Kelowna, BC.
>http://www.drakesbritishmotors.com/main.shtml
>Len has scads of parts and
there's a very good likelihood that he may be able
>to fix you up.
>
>Cheers,
>Dave
>
>
>On 2012-08-13, at 4:18 PM, Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost
it.
>> Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from
Greyhound
>and
>> who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait.
The TR4 is my
>only
>> car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one
west of the Rockies,
>> but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have
it shipped reliable
>and
>> quickly.
>>
>> Tim Purdy
>>
>> **
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph@lbcs.ca
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 03:22:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
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Hi List!
I've been reviewing some 'new' threads for the second edition of my
manual & came across this thread one:
 
Subject:           Master or Slave
problem
Date:               Sat, 19 May 2012 
From:              
<wbeech@flash.net>

All was good then one day I had to pump the clutch pedal a
few times to get it
to disengage. I first thought, air in the line or low
fluid. Fluid was good so
bled the line... twice... no soap. So, I suppose I
need to narrow this down to
the master or the slave cylinder. Both were
rebuild just 4 years, 3,500mi, ago
and have been performing flawlessly up
until now.

Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I
can maybe have
a chance of starting in the right place?
-Bill Beecher
--------------------           
            Subject:           Master or Slave
problem
Date:               Sat,
19 May 2012 
From:               "Randall"
<TR3driver@ca.rr.com>

> Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or
the S/C, so I can
maybe have a chance of starting in the 
>
right place?
There is basically no way for the slave to fail, except to leak fluid. If no
leak, it's not the slave cylinder. And even if it does start leaking, the leak
will likely be slow enough that low fluid will be the first thing you notice
(not having to pump the pedal).

Check out the MC first, definitely. But your
description sounds suspiciously
like the dread broken taper pin.
- Randall
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
I've been working on a friends TR4 with the same problem (soft peddle). I
was told, with the MC Blead & in the car, Plug the outlet of the MC& press the
peddle down. If the peddle is firm (hard), then the problem is futher down the
line.-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 06:08:21 2012
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From: "Alex" <ambritts@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: [TR] Found this
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Who would have thought...Click on the gift box.......

http://www.123greetings.com/birthday/happy_birthday/something_nice_for_your_b
irthday.html

Alex
59TR3A
72TR6

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] (Master or Slave)  Follow up and resolution
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Cosmo,

Because team.net does not send me posts from Randall(go figure) I never saw
his response, and the archives were not working either.  So, I started at
the slave only because I had recently replaced the return spring and I had
not been anywhere close to the M/C around the time of this problem arising.

My only guess is that somehow while the spring was out the piston was
allowed to move up past the 'crud ring'(my term for the internal build up
beyond the slide area) and the damaged the seal.  It was leaking internally,
and I only found it after removing the rubber cup.  BTW, The old Rovers use
the same S/C setup and I was able to buy a new replacement for only $13.75
as opposed to $45 at Moss.  Installed and all problems are resolved at this
point.

Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 5:22 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] (no subject)

Hi List!
I've been reviewing some 'new' threads for the second edition of my manual &
came across this thread one:
 
Subject:           Master or Slave
problem
Date:               Sat, 19 May 2012 
From:              
<wbeech@flash.net>

All was good then one day I had to pump the clutch pedal a few times to get
it to disengage. I first thought, air in the line or low fluid. Fluid was
good so bled the line... twice... no soap. So, I suppose I need to narrow
this down to the master or the slave cylinder. Both were rebuild just 4
years, 3,500mi, ago and have been performing flawlessly up until now.

Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe
have a chance of starting in the right place?
-Bill Beecher
--------------------           
            Subject:           Master or Slave
problem
Date:               Sat,
19 May 2012 
From:               "Randall"
<TR3driver@ca.rr.com>

> Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or
the S/C, so I can
maybe have a chance of starting in the 
>
right place?
There is basically no way for the slave to fail, except to leak fluid. If no
leak, it's not the slave cylinder. And even if it does start leaking, the
leak will likely be slow enough that low fluid will be the first thing you
notice (not having to pump the pedal).

Check out the MC first, definitely. But your description sounds suspiciously
like the dread broken taper pin.
- Randall
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    
I've been working on a friends TR4 with the same problem (soft peddle). I
was told, with the MC Blead & in the car, Plug the outlet of the MC& press
the peddle down. If the peddle is firm (hard), then the problem is futher
down the line.-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 12:17:17 2012
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"Here I am again looking for a bonnet"


Tim, Call Mike Bonaducci in Bradford VT. at (802) 439-5815 he has a HUGE
assortment of used TR
Parts and I would be surprised if he does not have what you need


Michael Godley
65TR4A

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From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave)  Follow up and resolution
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So Bill,
     Where does someone find an old Rover slave cylinder setup? I
don't seem to have the catalog on those...

     -Bill in Tehachapi


From:
"Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>,
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] (Master or Slave)  Follow up and
resolution
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Cosmo,

Because team.net does
not send me posts from Randall(go figure) I never saw
his response, and the
archives were not working either.  So, I started at
the slave only because I
had recently replaced the return spring and I had
not been anywhere close to
the M/C around the time of this problem arising.

My only guess is that
somehow while the spring was out the piston was
allowed to move up past the
'crud ring'(my term for the internal build up
beyond the slide area) and the
damaged the seal.  It was leaking internally,
and I only found it after
removing the rubber cup.  BTW, The old Rovers use
the same S/C setup and I was
able to buy a new replacement for only $13.75
as opposed to $45 at Moss. 
Installed and all problems are resolved at this
point.

Bill

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On 8/14/12 11:50 AM, William Brewer wrote:
> So Bill,
>       Where does someone find an old Rover slave cylinder setup? I
> don't seem to have the catalog on those...
>
>       -Bill in Tehachapi
>
>
Closest to you would be British Pacific.  If on the Phone ask to talk to 
Marty.  He is a TR guy.

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 13:48:25 2012
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Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do.  I've checked
with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or
they don't understand what I'm looking for.

What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my
speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on
my TR4.  The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8
male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end.

I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have
it fitted.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Brad
1963 TR4

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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:18:30 -0500
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they sent me
two magnets and roll of tape.  Strap one to the driveshaft and the other
mounted on a bracket in close proximity.  Voila! Le pulse generator.  Drove
that old truck for 20 years.

Have you tried West Valley Instruments in SoCal or ZepCo in Dallas?

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:50 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do.  I've checked
> with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or
> they don't understand what I'm looking for.
>
> What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my
> speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on
> my TR4.  The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8
> male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end.
>
> I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have
> it fitted.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
> 1963 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:32:44 -0500
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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Speaking of Voila!, here's

  http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8
Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise Control

also see them on ebay.


> Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they sent me
two magnets and roll of tape.  Strap one to the driveshaft and the other
mounted on a bracket in close proximity.  Voila! Le pulse generator.  Drove
that old truck for 20 years.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 17:41:09 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Voila!, here's
>
>   http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8
> Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise
> Control
>
> also see them on ebay.
>
>
> > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they
> sent me
> two magnets and roll of tape.  Strap one to the driveshaft and the other
> mounted on a bracket in close proximity.  Voila! Le pulse generator.  Drove
> that old truck for 20 years.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 14 17:41:59 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive
shaft option.  I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than
Amazon  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10

I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil.

I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will
modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I
have a fall back option that is not all that expensive.

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Voila!, here's
>
>   http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8
> Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise
> Control
>
> also see them on ebay.
>
>
> > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they
> sent me
> two magnets and roll of tape.  Strap one to the driveshaft and the other
> mounted on a bracket in close proximity.  Voila! Le pulse generator.  Drove
> that old truck for 20 years.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Next thing will be a Flux Capacitor!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Brad Kahler
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 7:40 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable

Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive
shaft option.  I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than
Amazon  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10

I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil.

I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will
modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I
have a fall back option that is not all that expensive.

Thanks!

Brad

On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Voila!, here's
>
>   http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8
> Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise
> Control
>
> also see them on ebay.
>
>
> > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they
> sent me
> two magnets and roll of tape.  Strap one to the driveshaft and the other
> mounted on a bracket in close proximity.  Voila! Le pulse generator. 
> Drove
> that old truck for 20 years.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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I'm waiting for it to become readily available over the counter at the
local FLAPS :)


On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 9:29 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>wrote:

> Next thing will be a Flux Capacitor!
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 7:40 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer
> cable
>
> Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive
> shaft option.  I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than
> Amazon  http://www.summitracing.com/**parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10>
>
> I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil.
>
> I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will
> modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I
> have a fall back option that is not all that expensive.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad

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> What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my
> speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the 
> cruise control on
> my TR4. 

Have you considered using ignition pulses instead?  You'd want to be sure
the cruise control drops out when the clutch is pressed, but you'll need
that anyway.

-- Randall  

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> Closest to you would be British Pacific.  If on the Phone ask 
> to talk to 
> Marty.  He is a TR guy.

These days, I think Steve is more involved with TRs than Marty.

-- Randall  

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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The first version of the SCS/Frigette cruise control (circa 1998) had coil
sense capability and I used it with great success on my Spitfire.  The next
SCS/Frigette cruise control I bought in 2001 had that feature removed and
it only works with VSS type signals.   Connecting it to the coil actually
fries the cruise module as I found out recently.  I've been looking at
other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of
VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil.

Quite frustrating.


On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 10:03 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my
> > speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the
> > cruise control on
> > my TR4.
>
> Have you considered using ignition pulses instead?  You'd want to be sure
> the cruise control drops out when the clutch is pressed, but you'll need
> that anyway.
>
> -- Randall

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:01:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the
modern TRF reproduction.  The knob with the dull finish on the left is the
modern one.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg


Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored
long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so.  This one seems
to have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg

I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll
ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to
the shift lever.

Don
1962 TR3B
(which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30
years off the road and 31 years of ownership!  Happy 50th birthday,
TSF202L!)

On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the
> > modern rubber version.
>
> Any chance you could post a photo somewhere?  I'm kind of curious, as I
> believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob.  The pattern is
> worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro
> that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest.
>
> > There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs --
> > smarter folk than I will have to chime in here.
>
> The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece
> shift lever).  Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third
> knob (at least not in my copy).
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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On 8/14/12 7:05 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Closest to you would be British Pacific.  If on the Phone ask
>> to talk to
>> Marty.  He is a TR guy.
> These days, I think Steve is more involved with TRs than Marty.
>
> -- Randall
Steve no longer owns British Pacific.  He was bought out over a year ago 
and no longer works there.  Leaving Marty as the only TR guy at the company.

TeriAnn

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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Don,

Your original is in great shape. Mine, on the other hand, was really 
bad. There is/was no evidence of a shift pattern.
But my restoration resulted in a smooth knob and looks almost brand new. 
And since I have 3 TRs with the same shift pattern, and have been 
shifting them for over 40 years, I really don't need a reminder!

Bob

On 08/15/2012 09:01 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the
> modern TRF reproduction.  The knob with the dull finish on the left is the
> modern one.
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg
>
>
> Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored
> long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so.  This one seems
> to have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob.
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg
>
> I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll
> ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to
> the shift lever.
>
> Don
> 1962 TR3B
> (which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30
> years off the road and 31 years of ownership!  Happy 50th birthday,
> TSF202L!)
>
> On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>> I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the
>>> modern rubber version.
>> Any chance you could post a photo somewhere?  I'm kind of curious, as I
>> believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob.  The pattern is
>> worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro
>> that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest.
>>
>>> There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs --
>>> smarter folk than I will have to chime in here.
>> The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece
>> shift lever).  Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third
>> knob (at least not in my copy).
>>
>> -- Randall

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> ...I've been looking at
> other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of
> VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil.
>


I know some who are using this unit (on VWs):

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422

Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on my
VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from
car-to-car).

Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit.
Geo

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Geo,

This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source
either.  It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal,
pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft.

Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric servo
type.

I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my
Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great.  Bud Rolofson then installed one
on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years.  Now that I want to
install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from
the ignition coil.

The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets
on the drive shaft.  I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option
just yet, still a few more places to check with.  Barring that I'll
probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft.

Thanks,

Brad




On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> ...I've been looking at
>> other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of
>> VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil.
>>
>
>
> I know some who are using this unit (on VWs):
>
> http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422
>
> Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on
> my VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from
> car-to-car).
>
> Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit.
>  Geo

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses
and give you a VSS signal.  Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that
your unit wants?


On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> Geo,
>
> This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source
> either.  It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal,
> pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft.
>
> Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric servo
> type.
>
> I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my
> Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great.  Bud Rolofson then installed one
> on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years.  Now that I want to
> install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from
> the ignition coil.
>
> The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets
> on the drive shaft.  I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option
> just yet, still a few more places to check with.  Barring that I'll
> probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> ...I've been looking at
> >> other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort
> of
> >> VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil.
> >>
> >
> >
> > I know some who are using this unit (on VWs):
> >
> > http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422
> >
> > Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on
> > my VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from
> > car-to-car).
> >
> > Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit.
> >  Geo
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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No, I don't.

Since the new cruise units are designed to work with modern cars I would
imagine whatever is typical for a modern VSS would be appropriate.

Just shows you how little I know about modern cars :)

If it was made after about 1973 I don't know much about them!

Brad


On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 10:02 AM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:

> You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses
> and give you a VSS signal.  Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that
> your unit wants?
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Geo,
>>
>> This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source
>> either.  It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal,
>> pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft.
>>
>> Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric
>> servo
>> type.
>>
>> I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my
>> Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great.  Bud Rolofson then installed
>> one
>> on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years.  Now that I want
>> to
>> install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from
>> the ignition coil.
>>
>> The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets
>> on the drive shaft.  I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option
>> just yet, still a few more places to check with.  Barring that I'll
>> probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brad

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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Ok, so a little googleing shows that most of the GM VSS output a 0-5vdc
square wave at 4000 pulses per mile.  So at 60mph, you are going to get a
square wave with a 66.6hz frequency.  Assuming you are running about 3000
rpm on a 4cyl engine at the same speed, your tach pulse will be a 0-12v
irregular spike at about 200hz.  The two frequencies are close enough that
you might just have to reduce the voltage down to get the tach signal to
work.  I'd use a Schmidt trigger to reduce the signal to 5v and try it.
Once you get down to 5v, there should be no risk of damage to your cc
module.  If it doesn't work, then you will need to add a frequency devider
to requce it to a point that it operates.  Should only take 3 or for
components to build the circuit.  You could probably do the same thing with
just a transistor but you might not get a clean enough square wave to make
the CC module happy.

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:04 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> No, I don't.
>
> Since the new cruise units are designed to work with modern cars I would
> imagine whatever is typical for a modern VSS would be appropriate.
>
> Just shows you how little I know about modern cars :)
>
> If it was made after about 1973 I don't know much about them!
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 10:02 AM, John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses
>> and give you a VSS signal.  Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that
>> your unit wants?
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Geo,
>>>
>>> This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source
>>> either.  It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS
>>> signal,
>>> pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft.
>>>
>>> Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric
>>> servo
>>> type.
>>>
>>> I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my
>>> Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great.  Bud Rolofson then installed
>>> one
>>> on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years.  Now that I want
>>> to
>>> install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed
>>> from
>>> the ignition coil.
>>>
>>> The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the
>>> magnets
>>> on the drive shaft.  I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option
>>> just yet, still a few more places to check with.  Barring that I'll
>>> probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Brad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>


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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Don Hiscock'" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net><C0BB647D40654E83BE19024DD5FBEDD8@bboffice><50256968.7030401@adelphia.net><CFAA222062C840DC8639A3A399B3477C@Office><CAPK7CFBBuWtRkQr3F=zn4uWra=jZADVkivyf5q+Fqo+62BjWMA@mail.gmail.com><1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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Moss UK lists the "push-On" knob p/n 107885 for TS1-2876, of course it is
NLS.  They do sell the 2nd listed knob, p/n 109045.  Both Rimmer and Moss UK
refer to 109045 when you search 123961, that third knob that Randall alluded
to.

Such a mystery, I wonder if the third one of planned but never produced?

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 8:01 AM
To: Randall
Cc: Triumphs List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration

Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the
modern TRF reproduction.  The knob with the dull finish on the left is the
modern one.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg


Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored
long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so.  This one seems to
have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg

I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll
ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to
the shift lever.

Don
1962 TR3B
(which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30 years
off the road and 31 years of ownership!  Happy 50th birthday,
TSF202L!)

On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the 
> > modern rubber version.
>
> Any chance you could post a photo somewhere?  I'm kind of curious, as 
> I believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob.  The 
> pattern is worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar 
> to the repro that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest.
>
> > There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- 
> > smarter folk than I will have to chime in here.
>
> The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 
> 2-piece shift lever).  Unfortunately there is no change point given 
> for the third knob (at least not in my copy).
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:45:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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why not have 2 custom speedo cables made.
there are lots of little shops
around that will do this.
if you need a place i have a lead in fallbrook
California
Frank

From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs
<Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:50 PM
Subject:
[TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable

The subject
line pretty much describes what I need to do.  I've checked
with some
speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or
they don't
understand what I'm looking for.

What I need is to add one of the VSS signal
generators in line with my
speedometer cable so I can finish the installation
of the cruise control on
my TR4.  The only signal generator I can find has the
typical GM style 7/8
male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread
on the other end.

I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some
place to have
it fitted.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Brad
1963 TR4

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
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Frank,

That's what I've been trying to find is a decent speedo shop that can
rework cables.  I've called several and I'm not sure we were speaking the
same language and I've tried emailing/calling others and they don't respond.

If you wouldn't mind sending me the info on the place in Fallbrook I would
appreciate it.

I just got a lead on a shop in Denver that I'm going to check on right now
so who knows, maybe that will pan out.

Brad


On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

> why not have 2 custom speedo cables made.
> there are lots of little shops around that will do this.
> if you need a place i have a lead in fallbrook California
> Frank
>
>   *From:* Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> *To:* Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:50 PM
> *Subject:* [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable
>
> The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do.  I've checked
> with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or
> they don't understand what I'm looking for.
>
> What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my
> speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on
> my TR4.  The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8
> male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end.
>
> I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have
> it fitted.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad
> 1963 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From: "Fisher, Ed" <edwd@ti.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: speedo cabling
Thread-Index: Ac17EdAYDFxEMeG4R3qz81BqNTUDqg==
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Subject: [TR] speedo cabling
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Try Zepco in Richardson, Tx.  I've dealt with these guys, they know their
stuff.  http://www.zepco.com/

Ed (Dallas, Tx)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 12:29:51 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer, cable
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Palo Alto Speedometer (they're in the monster list) will certainly speak that 
language and work from a long distance. They won't be cheap, though. I've had 
them do many custom cables to fit various ratio adapters.

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Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer, cable
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Chris,

Thanks for the lead.  This morning I found a place in Denver called Deluxe
Speedometer & Cable service who said no problem on modifying the cable.  I
believe I'll give them a try mainly because the one  place in California
that I talked to (in Gardena?) quoted a starting point of $120 and Deluxe
Speedometer quoted $50 to $65 so I think I'll ship the cable and VSS
generator to them and see how it turns out.

I'll report back after I see how it looks.

Thanks for all the responses!

Brad


On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com> wrote:

> Palo Alto Speedometer (they're in the monster list) will certainly speak
> that language and work from a long distance. They won't be cheap, though.
> I've had them do many custom cables to fit various ratio adapters.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 14:19:36 2012
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sorry John Mac but speed week came a week late to keep you away from the
o-limp-ics.
 
but it looks like the McLeish's are setting a record in a
spitfire. at 150.41.
 
big WOW.
 
Frank

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 15:18:22 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration
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I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than  I'll
ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit  to
the shift lever.




True, the early cars (too lazy to go look up change number) did not have  
the need for a lock nut under the shift knob.  TRF did stock a non threaded  
shift knob for that push on.  I am sure that only Dave H. or John S. would  
be the only two that are aware of that stock.
 
Lou Metelko 
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD 

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Fisher, Ed'" <edwd@ti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ECCEE48@DLEE08.ent.ti.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedo cabling
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Ditto, they re-built a VDO speedo for me years ago, never a problem.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fisher, Ed
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:15 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] speedo cabling

Try Zepco in Richardson, Tx.  I've dealt with these guys, they know their
stuff.  http://www.zepco.com/

Ed (Dallas, Tx)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 15 21:01:32 2012
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From: Sam <trdoctor@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 22:03:16 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Linkage Adjustment
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Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full
throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator arrangement
(MKIII).  So far, no joy.  So . . .   I have a new question.  I have obtained
full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the cross
shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to the
bell crank (does this make sense?).  I now have full opening but the pedal is
way high.  Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the
linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with it?
TIA
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 16 06:03:02 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Linkage Adjustment
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With the stock linkage you are stuck with the pedal travel you got.  There 
are a couple of things you can do, however.  If you adjust the pedal stop 
you can get the pedal to go lower and then you can lengthen the linkage and 
lower the ends of travel.

Another thing is make sure the lost motion at the cross shaft is minimized. 
 As you recall there is a linkage that allows the pedal linkage to 
overtravel in the closed direction and will allow the carb throttle shafts to come 
to rest on the idle adjust screws.  There is also a stop for the pedal 
linkage.  If you set the linkage stop to a point where you get a lot of pedal 
movement before you engage the throttle shafts you pedal height when off 
throttle will be higher than necessary.

If you still aren't happy with that then you can consider modifications 
which will increase the throttle movement to pedal movement ratio.  Or you can 
switch to the RATCO throttle cable kit.

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2012 10:04:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trdoctor@aol.com writes: 
> Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full
> throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator 
> arrangement
> (MKIII).  So far, no joy.  So . . .   I have a new question.  I have 
> obtained
> full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the 
> cross
> shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to 
> the
> bell crank (does this make sense?).  I now have full opening but the pedal 
> is
> way high.  Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the
> linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with 
> it?
> TIA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 16 16:45:52 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 18:47:30 -0400
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Subject: [TR] indescribable
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After more than a half-century on this earth, I thought I had experienced
just about everything there was to experience.  That was, until I got my
TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with 160bhp at the wheels.
Not that I intend to set speed records, but the sheer exhilaration of
driving the car after a 4-year restoration effort defies definitions.
Shifting through those gears and feeling the smoothness of that engine (I
love my TR3, but these 6 cylinders just exude power).

Sorry everyone, but this is why I love these cars.  Unbelievable.

Andrew Uprichard
1962 TR3B
1968 TR250
1957 smallmouth (undergoing restoration)

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Sounds wonderful, congrats, nothing like things working well after you put 
them back together, inquiring minds want to know what you did to get 160 bhp 
and how it runs, smooth idle or lumpy, etc.?

Thanks

Greg Lemon
TR250 (pushing out an estimated 120-125)

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As they say on Facebook - LIKE!!!


gratZ.
rml

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Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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On Thu, 16 Aug 2012, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

> After more than a half-century on this earth, I thought I had experienced
> just about everything there was to experience.  That was, until I got my
> TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with 160bhp at the wheels.
> Not that I intend to set speed records, but the sheer exhilaration of
> driving the car after a 4-year restoration effort defies definitions.
> Shifting through those gears and feeling the smoothness of that engine (I
> love my TR3, but these 6 cylinders just exude power).
>
> Sorry everyone, but this is why I love these cars.  Unbelievable.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> 1962 TR3B
> 1968 TR250
> 1957 smallmouth (undergoing restoration)
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
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160 to the wheels... prey, do tell.

rml
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Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
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Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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To Bob and the many others who asked:

I owe most of this story to my cousin, Darryl Uprichard, owner of
Racetorations in the UK (no financial interest).  We talked about the
possibilities for the car and he came up with a menu of options for
performance versus cost.  We settled on +60 forged pistons, cam bearings and
a fast-road cam, the head was ported, we went with triple 40 DCOE Webers and
we fitted a stainless steel header.  Other additions included an electronic
distributor, a lightened flywheel and an alloy sump.

The car was dyno'd locally:  the shop had no experience with Webers, but
Racetorations sent a box of jets from which we chose airs, mains and idles
and returned the rest.  This made a huge difference:  for the person who
asked, the car now accelerates smoothly throughout the range.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang@isis.mit.edu] 
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2012 9:44 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] indescribable


160 to the wheels... prey, do tell.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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Congrats Andrew, those are terrific numbers. I have a TR250 with similar 
modifications and dyno-ed at 155 rear wheel brake horsepower. My problem 
is that I've never been able to get the triple webers to run right - big 
wide flat spot in the middle rpm range and when getting on the 
accelerator... It'd be great if you could post your choke, jet sizes, 
accelerator pumps, etc.

Thanks,
David Brady
'68 TR250, CD8124L

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 07:50:52 2012
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Hi - believe it or not, I more or less assumed there was a connection to 
Racetorations. Family connection: even better!

What sort of chassis dyno were you running on?

And - we assume a free-flow exhaust, but what compression ratio are you 
running? And last - what size chokes are you running.

Last - what's the torque peak?

regards,
rml
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Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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Andrew,
 
I did a lot of engine mods to my TR6 motor during restoration and,  
unfortunately never had a chance to dyno it.  I know that it took a few  miles to 
get it sorted out (carb needles, adjustments, timing,etc.) so what did  you 
do and how was the sorting out process!!??
 
Oh....big congrats and hope you have many miles enjoying the power:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/16/2012 6:48:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
auprichard@uprichard.net writes:

That  was, until I got my
TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with  160bhp at the wheels.

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Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack]  indescribable.....Now     "CALIFORNIA AIR"
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Lists:

The ultimate TR250 is featured on a new DVD by UK's John Clancy   (TR250K)

Kas Kastner's US/TRIUMPH Competition Years...including footage of the recent
Kastner Cup

The website     triumphdvd.co.uk

It includes YOUTUBE trailers of all of his TRIUMPH DVDs.


Can be ordered directly from John in the UK or through Ted Schumacher or
A.R.E. in NORTH AMERICA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 10:56:44 2012
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And lets not forget those awesome drivers interviews!  I'm not sure how I
pulled that one off, I think Evelyn must have slipped him a twenty behind my
back.
THANKS JOHN.

Marty


> To: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
> From: n197tr4@cs.com
> Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:31:58 -0400
> CC: bfcc@hotmail.co.uk
> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] indescribable.....Now "CALIFORNIA AIR"
>
> Lists:
>
> The ultimate TR250 is featured on a new DVD by UK's John Clancy (TR250K)
>
> Kas Kastner's US/TRIUMPH Competition Years...including footage of the
recent
> Kastner Cup
>
> The website triumphdvd.co.uk
>
> It includes YOUTUBE trailers of all of his TRIUMPH DVDs.
>
>
> Can be ordered directly from John in the UK or through Ted Schumacher or
> A.R.E. in NORTH AMERICA
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 13:54:46 2012
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
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Subject: [TR] Look What Chip Bought Today!
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As the saying goes: I was in the right place at the right time.  The  owner 
posted the car on Craigslist Thursday evening....I saw it on Craigslist  
this morning - drove up to see it and left a deposit - should be able to pick 
it  up next week sometime (after I get insurance card).
 
1962 TR4 - early car CT2052L.....restored.....so far only two things need  
to be sorted: it needs a new steering column universal rubber and I don't 
think  the radiator fan extension is from a TR4 - the fan is only about 1/2" 
from  the radiator - way too close.
 
The owner lives in Red Hill, has owned the car since 1991 - he's not a  
member of DVT....his wife is ill - he doesn't have much opportunity to drive 
the  car.....$12,000!

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1248.JPG]

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 14:08:46 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Look What Chip Bought Today!
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Chip,

Sounds like a great deal but could you post the pics on the forum? The 
Team Net server removes all attachments. Would like to see the car.

Got to love those TR4s. Not to many of them around anymore.

Steering block is easy to replace, just use a clamp when attaching the 
bolts. And dont forget the horn ground strap.

Is the fan the TR3 version or the TR4? I think some of those early 4s 
had the 3 fan.

Bob

On 08/17/2012 03:56 PM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
> As the saying goes: I was in the right place at the right time.  The  owner
> posted the car on Craigslist Thursday evening....I saw it on Craigslist
> this morning - drove up to see it and left a deposit - should be able to pick
> it  up next week sometime (after I get insurance card).
>   
> 1962 TR4 - early car CT2052L.....restored.....so far only two things need
> to be sorted: it needs a new steering column universal rubber and I don't
> think  the radiator fan extension is from a TR4 - the fan is only about 1/2"
> from  the radiator - way too close.
>   
> The owner lives in Red Hill, has owned the car since 1991 - he's not a
> member of DVT....his wife is ill - he doesn't have much opportunity to drive
> the  car.....$12,000!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 18:02:32 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires
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I know this has been asked & answered a bunch of times, but what is
recommended tire for a 60 TR3A with good solid wire wheels?  What are the
reputable online sources for them.

The look of the traditional Michelin X take me back to my years in college
when I had my first 60 TR3A.   :-|




John Wise
Ormond BeCH, FL
1960 TR3A
1977 Porsche 911S

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Tires
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On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 3:02 PM, John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com> wrote:

> I know this has been asked & answered a bunch of times, but what is
> recommended tire for a 60 TR3A with good solid wire wheels?  What are the
> reputable online sources for them.
>


For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys...

Tires Easy<http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=33761908.135.30504&typ=R-135338&ranzahl=4&Breite=165&Felge=15&weiter=0&kategorie=6&Ang_pro_Seite=15&Transport=P&dsco=135>

Nexens on the TR3A <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Nexen.JPG>

Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, easy
to balance, etc.

For more $$, more tire:

Vredestein Sprint
Classic<http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-vredestein-sprint-blackwall-tire.html>



> The look of the traditional Michelin X take me back to my years in college
> when I had my first 60 TR3A.
>


 Michelin XZX <http://www.cokertire.com/165sr15-michelin-xzx.html>

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 17 20:02:41 2012
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
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Cross posting this link from the Triumph Register forum for those who
haven't seen it yet.  Nice to have some video of these cars when they
were new.

http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 18:46:19 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 tires
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Nexen's don't look out of place in that pic.  My dunlops are on their last
season. :(

Anybody had any experience with nangkang

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=10072&counter=1
&ar=80&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165

Sent from my iPad

On 2012-08-18, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

>
>
> For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys...
>
> Tires
Easy<http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=33761908.13
5.30504&typ=R-135338&ranzahl=4&Breite=165&Felge=15&weiter=0&kategorie=6&Ang_p
ro_Seite=15&Transport=P&dsco=135>
>
> Nexens on the TR3A <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Nexen.JPG>
>
> Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, easy
> to balance, etc.
>
> For more $$, more tire:
>
> Vredestein Sprint
>
Classic<http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-vredestein-sprint-blackwall-tire.htm
l>

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 18 20:25:17 2012
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I'm running an empty trailer suitable for an lbc from dallas to tuscaloosa 
next friday.

if you need a car moved I can make you a great deal

dave northrup
dallas, tx 

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Yes,
I have Nankangs on my car now, whitewalls from DiamondBack Tires, they have
performed just great.  I had a set of black wall Nankangs before that,
excellent performance.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 7:49 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 tires

Nexen's don't look out of place in that pic.  My dunlops are on their last
season. :(

Anybody had any experience with nangkang

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=10072&counter=
1
&ar=80&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165

Sent from my iPad

On 2012-08-18, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

>
>
> For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys...
>
> Tires
Easy<http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=33761908.1
3
5.30504&typ=R-135338&ranzahl=4&Breite=165&Felge=15&weiter=0&kategorie=6&Ang_
p
ro_Seite=15&Transport=P&dsco=135>
>
> Nexens on the TR3A 
> <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Nexen.JPG>
>
> Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, 
> easy to balance, etc.
>
> For more $$, more tire:
>
> Vredestein Sprint
>
Classic<http://www.cokertire.com/165hr15-vredestein-sprint-blackwall-tire.ht
m
l>

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 19 08:11:09 2012
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 10:13:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
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Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad before sending, and it continues to work
perfectly, but a few pm's have indicated that it doesn't work for some
others.  Must be a PC v i-device thing.

Here's a link from a Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph
tour of europe 1957". It may me more amenable to PC settings for those who
haven't seen the video before.
http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars

Regards,

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202qL

On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> Cross posting this link from the Triumph Register forum for those who
> haven't seen it yet.  Nice to have some video of these cars when they
> were new.
>
>
> http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8
>
> Don
> 1962 TR3B TSF202L

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From: "Greg  Gelhar" <greg@gelhar.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 horns
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O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean 
and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban 
residential neighborhood  garage and don't want to irritate the other home 
owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 19 11:32:00 2012
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Subject: [TR] Surrogate buyer near Sussex County, NJ?
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List,

Anyone know who the 6pack surrogate buyer is for areas near Sussex Co.  
NJ.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi@comcast.net

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
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And anyone who's interested in seeing Heralds and Spitfires being built (if
not already seen) will find a good short film taken in the 'new' assembly hall
built in 1959
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-b_HzLbzJc&feature=related Typing Standard
Motor Company into the search bar will probably turn up more than inserting
Triumph on its own
 Jonmac

http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk
>________________________________
> From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
>To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Sunday, 19 August 2012, 15:13
>Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
>
>Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad before sending, and it continues to work
>perfectly, but a few pm's have indicated that it doesn't work for some
>others.  Must be a PC v i-device thing.
>
>Here's a link from a Google search
using the terms "british pathe triumph
>tour of europe 1957". It may me more
amenable to PC settings for those who
>haven't seen the video before.
>http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars
>
>Regards,
>
>Don
>1962 TR3B TSF202qL
>
>On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM, Don
Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Cross posting this link from the
Triumph Register forum for those who
>> haven't seen it yet.  Nice to have
some video of these cars when they
>> were new.
>>
>>
>>
http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8
>>
>> Don
>> 1962 TR3B TSF202L
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 horns
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I suppose you could 'stuff a sock in it' -- a rolled up sock or rag jammed
into the flare of the horn should have the same effect as a mute on a
trumpet -- you'll get the sound in a greatly reduced volume.  You'll have
to estimate the improvement by first listening to the current sound with
the sock in place.

Geo

On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:27 AM, Greg Gelhar <greg@gelhar.com> wrote:

> O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean
> and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban
> residential neighborhood  garage and don't want to irritate the other home
> owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself?

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Greg Gelhar <greg@gelhar.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
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Try putting an old pair of someone's undershorts in the bell mouth?

Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: Greg  Gelhar <greg@gelhar.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent:
Sunday, 19 August 2012, 18:27
>Subject: [TR] TR3 horns
>  
>O.K. guys, here is
a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean and adjust ten TR3
Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban residential neighborhood 
garage and don't want to irritate the other home owners. Has anyone got ideas
how I can keep the noise to myself?
>
>Greg G.
>Osseo, MN 
>**
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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 12:49:57 -0500
To: Greg Gelhar <greg@gelhar.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 horns
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You might do all your cleaning then drive out to the shopping mall parking
lot.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Aug 19, 2012, at 12:27 PM, "Greg  Gelhar" <greg@gelhar.com> wrote:

> O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean
and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban
residential neighborhood  garage and don't want to irritate the other home
owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself?
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo, MN
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Test them out in the engine bay with the bonnet down.  They are seldom 
heard more than a car length away.

I ebayed mine and replaced them with air horns out of a mid sixties 
Maserati.  MUCH MORE NOTICABLE.

TeriAnn

My TR3 speaks with an upper class Italian accent.  But at least it is heard.

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Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 14:36:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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working on a friends 49 mayflower.
trying to clean up the undercarriage.
no rot.
little surface rust. original california car.
lots of desert dirt and grime
lots of undercoat.
whats the best way to get back to bare metal? 
or just clean the undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off?
known locations in southern california that do this work?
other options and opinions welcomed
thanks
Frank

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 19 16:20:46 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] soda or bead blast
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Frank,

I took all of my steel to a place here in Arlington, Texas called "Metal
Rehab".
Maybe you check them out and then find their equal where you are..


On Aug 19, 2012, at 4:36 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> working on a friends 49 mayflower.
> trying to clean up the undercarriage.
> no rot.
> little surface rust. original california car.
> lots of desert dirt and grime
> lots of undercoat.
> whats the best way to get back to bare metal?
> or just clean the undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off?
> known locations in southern california that do this work?
> other options and opinions welcomed
> thanks
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 15:39:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, Triumphs
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Frank-
 
Any kind of abrasive blast will turn the old remaining undercoat to
"goo".  If you want to clean it off, you'll have to use putty knives, heat,
solvent, and a lot of sweat equity.  After its off, a good pressure wash and a
coat of POR15 undercarriage paint ought to do it.
 
Chad in Tulsa

From: Frank
Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Sunday, August 19, 2012 4:36 PM
Subject: [TR] soda or bead blast

working on a
friends 49 mayflower.
trying to clean up the undercarriage.
no rot.
little
surface rust. original california car.
lots of desert dirt and grime
lots of
undercoat.
whats the best way to get back to bare metal? 
or just clean the
undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off?
known locations in
southern california that do this work?
other options and opinions welcomed
thanks
Frank

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I stuff the outlet of the horns with paper towel. And I adjust only one at a
time. I unplug the other.

-Tony

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From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [TR] carb insulators
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Just wondering how important the carb insulator sections are that go between
the SU's and the intake manifold (tr-3) Looks like they maybe be asbestos but
not sure and they're maybe 1/4 inch thick.  I have a longer intake manifold
and can use the extra space for the carbs/firewall area.  Just wondering about
heat interference issues.

thanks
gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 19 19:57:55 2012
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Subject: [TR] Dave Willner
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Sorry to bomb the list, but could Dave Willner contact me.

 

My cell phone number is 520-471-1336

 

Thanks,

Joe Curry

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Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
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Hi Don!
Thanks for the quick reply & the link that I was able to open up.
 
Great watching & seeing the 50's style of dress. It brings back memories of
how life was back then & the family that I had.
 
I hope the rest of the list
viewed it.
-Cosmo Kramer


>________________________________
> From: Don
Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour
of Europe video link
>  
>Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad, and it works
perfectly.  Must be a PC v i- device thing.  If you had the problem, most
likely many others did too.  I'l repost to the list.
>
>Here's a link from a
Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph tour of europe 1957". It
may me more amenable to PC settings.
>http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars
>
>Don
>
>
>
>On 8/19/12, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hi Don!
>> I
don't know what I'm doing wrong, because when I clicked on your link, I
>>
received a pop- up message that stated that "Windows can NOT open this up".
>>
>> So could you send me the correct link to open it up?
>> TIA,
>> -Cosmo
Kramer

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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 05:25:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link
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it is a cool look back to times that seemed so much better.
more footage of
same on the triumphs across America DVD.
 

From: Cosmo Kramer
<tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> 
Cc:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, August 19,
2012 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video
link

Hi Don!
Thanks for the quick reply & the link that I was able to open
up.

Great watching & seeing the 50's style of dress. It brings back memories
of
how life was back then & the family that I had.

I hope the rest of the
list
viewed it.
-Cosmo Kramer


>________________________________
> From: Don
Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour
of Europe video link
>  
>Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad, and it works
perfectly.  Must be a PC v i- device thing.  If you had the problem, most
likely many others did too.  I'l repost to the list.
>
>Here's a link from a
Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph tour of europe 1957". It
may me more amenable to PC settings.
>http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars
>
>Don
>
>
>
>On 8/19/12, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hi Don!
>> I
don't know what I'm doing wrong, because when I clicked on your link, I
>>
received a pop- up message that stated that "Windows can NOT open this up".
>>
>> So could you send me the correct link to open it up?
>> TIA,
>> -Cosmo
Kramer

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 20 12:19:53 2012
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Values
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A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value of
his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and parking
space instead of the car.  I have had no need to follow what they have been
selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be.  Best I can
recall I would classify it as a really nice driver.   He restored it within
the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything I
have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so that
can give me some feedback?

Thanks,
Marty

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 20 13:33:01 2012
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 14:33:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Did a quick search of completed auctions on ebay  
http://motors.completed.shop.ebay.com/Cars-Trucks-/6001/i.html?_ipg=200&_sadis=200&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_samihi=&_samilow=&_fpos=&_oexkw=&_udhi=&_udlo=&_adv=1&_sop=12&LH_Complete=1&_dmd=1&_okw=&_fsct=&_nkw=tr6 
 
sold only:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-TR6-Triple-Webers-Desirable-early-model-/300761567413?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4606c950b5 $3000
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-TRUIMPH-ROASTER-CONV-/230836786218?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35bef1d42a $9750
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-TRIUMPH-TR-6-CONVERTIBLE-/230836824313?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35bef268f9 $4050
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NICE-1974-TRIUMPH-TR6-ORIGINAL-ENGINE-RUNS-GOOD-VERY-SOLID-LOW-RESERVE-/360479684987?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53ee43797b $5400
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR-6-Good-restoration-car-parts-LOW-RESERVE-/200803764932?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2ec0d64ac4 $1825
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR6-Restored-Body-Good-drivetrain-/140817981891?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c967e1c3 $4550
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Triumph-TR-6-Great-Condition-Solid-Car-/261078263727?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3cc97a27af $6550
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-triumph-tr6-RUNS-GOOD-PROJECT-NO-RESERVE-/200802335119?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2ec0c0798f $1225
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NICE-1974-TRIUMPH-TR6-ORIGINAL-ENGINE-RUNS-GOOD-VERY-SOLID-LOW-RESERVE-/360479384924?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53ee3ee55c $5500
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLEAN-AND-FAST-1972-TRIUMPH-TR6-CALIFORNIA-MGB-914-PORSCHE-SPRITE-/221092437017?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item337a22dc19 $13500
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-TRIUMPH-TR-6-CONVERTIBLE-/230832927462?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35beb6f2e6  $5000
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-Tr6-Frame-Off-Nut-Bolt-Restoration-Show-Car-Extremely-Nice-Buy-Now-/230834545459?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35becfa333 $16999
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/red-conv-excelent-condition-there-no-leaks-runs-perfect-/110926284951?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19d3b8c897 $13400
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR-6-frame-off-restoration-no-reserve-Little-white-lightning-/221085418675?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3379b7c4b3 $6801
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR6-/190708901405?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2c6722e61d  $12300
 
That is since Aug 5.  (15 of 55 sold - most of the unsold had higher reserves which may mean overpriced - see first link for full list).   except in unusual circumstances I would say ebay prices would qualify as 'wholesale'.

Hope this helps.

On 08/20/12, marty sukey 
wrote:

A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value of
his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and parking
space instead of the car. I have had no need to follow what they have been
selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be. Best I can
recall I would classify it as a really nice driver. He restored it within
the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything I
have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so that
can give me some feedback?

Thanks,
Marty

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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:38:35 -0400
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Values
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I helped a friend sell his original owner 73 TR6 last year. Beautiful car
which had been repainted, new interior, new top, rebuilt a engine and
transmission and fully detailed engine bay. Not a frame off restoration, but
it won many a parking lot trophy. In other words a really nice nice driver. It
sold for $15k. I think is was a great deal for the buyer.
Larry Miceli
Mount Dora, Florida

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 20, 2012, at 2:21 PM, marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

> A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value
of
> his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and
parking
> space instead of the car.  I have had no need to follow what they have been
> selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be.  Best I
can
> recall I would classify it as a really nice driver.   He restored it within
> the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything
I
> have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so
that
> can give me some feedback?
>
> Thanks,
> Marty
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes.  The parking brake
was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks.  Upon
reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself.  So. . . under the
car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive.  When I reached
end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was firm.  I
drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor.  It would pump
up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again.  I got the car home and
looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were obvious.
Nothing.  Master was full.  My experience tells me this is an internal master
cylinder leak.  The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other advice before
I jump on the internet and order a new one?
TIA

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Sent from my iPad

On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor@aol.com> wrote:

> Any other advice before
> I jump on the internet and order a new one?



Yes
Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these days
- send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry about it
again.
Cheers

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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On 8/20/2012 9:02 PM, Sam wrote:
> The pedal holds firm and then fades.  Any other advice before
> I jump on the internet and order a new one?


If the brakes heat up from being too tight, won't the cylinders get hot 
and cause brake fade>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is a
core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
Apple, White Post. . . ?

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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BTW, I am using DOT5 and have been for years.

Sam

On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam <trdoctor@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Any other advice before
>> I jump on the internet and order a new one?
>
>
>
> Yes
> Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these
days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry
about it again.
> Cheers
> Jack Mc

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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> Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is a
> core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
> Apple, White Post. . . ?

Sierra Specialty is the winner.

http://www.dimebank.com/monster/burst/00616.html

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Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges
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Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that
look reasonable period?   I have seen sets that will fit but they all look
very modern.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

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Subject: Re: [TR] Brakes
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Looks like they're $20 higher than Apple Hydraulic (for a brake master) and
higher shipping and longer turn around for us east coasters.

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 21, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com> wrote:

>> Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in?  I know there is
a
>> core charge.  Just thinking about the exchange time.  Also, send it where?
>> Apple, White Post. . . ?
>
> Sierra Specialty is the winner.
>
> http://www.dimebank.com/monster/burst/00616.html
>
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Subject: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again
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This post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and driver
if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it will.
 
 http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy Rainey has to
drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona FL (I think) in
April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day itinerary and if she's
passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and give her a cheer. It was one
thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a rebuilt Stag, it's quite another
doing it in something that's officially an antique.
 Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 21 16:20:35 2012
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oh my goodness
could she possibly have picked a hotter route for a summertime trip  across 
the USA? I don't think so.
just proves - only Mad dogs and Englishmen...
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 8/21/2012 6:12:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:

This  post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and  
driver
if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it  will.

http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy  Rainey has 
to
drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona  FL (I think) 
in
April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day  itinerary and if she's
passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and  give her a cheer. It was 
one
thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a  rebuilt Stag, it's quite 
another
doing it in something that's officially an  antique.
Jonmac

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
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Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 17:44:13 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again
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Could have been much worse, she's coming through Texas in April/May and not
July/August.  I see the route is coming close by, I have set a reminder to
check again in the spring.
Bill
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 5:23 PM
To: flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again

oh my goodness
could she possibly have picked a hotter route for a summertime trip  across
the USA? I don't think so.
just proves - only Mad dogs and Englishmen...
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 8/21/2012 6:12:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:

This  post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and
driver if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it  will.

http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy  Rainey has
to drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona  FL (I
think) in April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day  itinerary and
if she's passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and  give her a
cheer. It was one thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a  rebuilt
Stag, it's quite another doing it in something that's officially an
antique.
Jonmac

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Google "Stewart Warner gauges"!


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: bill_beecher <bill_beecher@flash.net>


Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that
look reasonable period?   I have seen sets that will fit but they all look
very modern.

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From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
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not at all economical
but i have a hankering for these gages
http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/magnolia.htm
Frank

From:
"bill_beecher@flash.net" <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:32 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges

Is there an
economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that
look
reasonable period?  I have seen sets that will fit but they all look
very
modern.

Thanks,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B
TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you
think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
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Wow - those look really cool - and reasonably priced too.

Just paid $600 to have a 4 in 1 gauge re-done for my Morgan +4,
comparatively, these seem like a good deal.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gauges
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Yes, I saw those and really liked them.  I guess economical is a relative
term, these are fairly reasonable when put alongside $1000 to have all my
originals completely redone.
 
I also found these good looking gauges from Stewart-Warner for under $400.
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-82225/> Stewart Warner 82225 -
Stewart Warner Wings Analog Gauge Boxed Kits
 
My biggest concern is how accurate will the speedometer be if I don't go
with a GPS driven unit for a few extra bucks.   Does anyone have any
experience in running a cable-driven non-original speedo?
 
Bill 

  _____  

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 5:19 PM
To: bill_beecher@flash.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gauges


not at all economical
but i have a hankering for these gages
http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/magnolia.htm
Frank

From: "bill_beecher@flash.net" <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:32 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges


Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that
look reasonable period?  I have seen sets that will fit but they all look
very modern.

Thanks,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 17:13:02 2012
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From: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>
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The same company offering the gauges should offer different gears to go with
your rear end setup and wheel/tire size package.

Alternatively, I have seen speedo drive "gear sets"  that you would put in
line between the speedo drive gear and the speedo (short cable to gearset from
trans, short cable from gearset to speedo)

Needing to modify the ratios for speedo's is a pretty common issue,
particularly with the 4x4 offroading set, where tire/wheel/rearend ratios can
vary widely.  So if the gauge guy can't help, try an offroad shop.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

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Subject: [TR] How to bench test a windshield wiper motor
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Can anyone please test me how to bench test a wiper motor with a park
feature? The connector to the wiper had 4 prongs in it.

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

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Subject: [TR] radiator
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I'm thinking maybe my radiator is crapped out (i'll know in a week or two) and
am just wondering if there are alternatives available without spending 400
bucks or more, aftermarket.............salvage yard alternatives?LOL  for
tr-3.

gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 20:46:44 2012
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From: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour
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Before I put new tires on them I'd like to touch up my wheels.  Any idea of a
modern paint match to the original gray?

Thanks,

Art

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 22 22:35:37 2012
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From: "Greg  Gelhar" <greg@gelhar.com>
To: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour
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I really like DUPLI-COLOR high performance wheel coating WP101 Silver. The 
other brands of wheel paint have to be clear coated otherwise the surface 
finish is too dull.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 9:49 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour


> Before I put new tires on them I'd like to touch up my wheels.  Any idea 
> of a
> modern paint match to the original gray?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Art
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 23 02:26:37 2012
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here is where all the information is on mechanical issues and help.

triumph list................ triumphs@autox.team.net

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Probably 150 Triumphs. Give him my name..... 717-729-0454

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Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 10:42:25 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Jonas Payne <JPayne@ThorCon.net>, "'bill_beecher@flash.net'"
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gauges
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   FWIW, thwe magnolia gauges look very nice and certainly 'different.' But
a word of warning? A good friend in the who regularly campaigned his TR6 on
fundraising events for non-profits found a major disadvantage. He'd had his
gauges re-done in magnolia and they were fine for daylight. All Night driving
stints were a whole different ballgame. Even with the rheostat turned down
low, the speedo and rev counter were still too bright while the central
auxiliaries were too dim. I was with him on one of these events and had my
turn at the wheel. There was just too much light below my required field of
vision, so I turned them off - switching on periodically to check oil pressure
and engine temp. We agreed that two rheostats was the answer for auxiliaries
and mains - but a pain to do.
Dave sold his car for another 6 about a year and
a half back and chose to clean all his instruments with LED's and new
transparents. As many on this list have already done that with excellent
results, I can confirm (for my needs at least) that overhauled 'original'
instruments are much more preferable - and let's face it, upgrading to
magnolia and then finding its not what you thought it was going to be, is an
expensive exercise. But it's your car ................
 
Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 23 04:16:06 2012
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Subject: [TR] Sorry guys
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I was sending some information to a friend who just got a 3 and mistakenly had
the list email address as a cc.........

Alex Manzo

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From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: "Alex" <ambritts@bellsouth.net>, "*Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Sorry guys
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Do not be sorry I found one of the web sites very interesting.

Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
Wales UK

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex" <ambritts@bellsouth.net>
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 11:16 AM
Subject: [TR] Sorry guys


>I was sending some information to a friend who just got a 3 and mistakenly 
>had
> the list email address as a cc.........
>
> Alex Manzo
>
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:46:21 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Paint codes on TR differential housings to indicate ratio
 inside?
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A member of our community mentioned in a side conversation that he's
observed, but never quite figured out, the code behind a stripe of paint
splashed across the differential housings of sidescreen TRs and TR4s.

He had a car with one green stripe -- simply a passing brush stroke from
10:00 to 2:00.  About 3/4-inch wide x 3-inches long.  His recollection was
that this indicated a 4.1 rear end.  No idea if there was a corresponding
color for a 3.7 rear.

Anybody capable of adding to or upgrading that?

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B TSF202L

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Subject: Re: [TR] Paint codes on TR differential housings to indicate ratio
 inside?
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>From the archives...

http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00585.html

No idea if this was ever substantiated.

Geo

On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> A member of our community mentioned in a side conversation that he's
> observed, but never quite figured out, the code behind a stripe of paint
> splashed across the differential housings of sidescreen TRs and TR4s.
>
> He had a car with one green stripe -- simply a passing brush stroke from
> 10:00 to 2:00.  About 3/4-inch wide x 3-inches long.  His recollection was
> that this indicated a 4.1 rear end.  No idea if there was a corresponding
> color for a 3.7 rear.
>
> Anybody capable of adding to or upgrading that?
>
> Don

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Subject: [TR] Overheatng
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History.  Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild.  When I started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds that then went way.  I figured it for a dry water pump.

Squealing has returned.  Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator.  Tried the stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump.  Squeal persisted.  Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped abruptly.  What was THAT all about??

So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt pulley on it, and reinstalled.  Same squeal as before.  

But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage?  

Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything.

Question:  If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would make much different noises than a belt squeal, right?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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Subject: Re: [TR] Overheatng
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One simple test is to remove the belt altogether and briefly run the engine
-- if the noise is gone that would narrow the search down to water pump,
alternator or belt.

A suspect belt can sometimes be diagnosed by spraying a bit of WD40 on it
while the engine is running.  If that immediately elminates the squeal then
it is the belt.  The WD40 is not a fix, just for diagnosis.

I have quieted a noisy belt by (very carefully) hold a sanding block
against the sides of the Vee as the engine runs.  This scuffs the belt a
bit and breaks up the glaze if that is what is cauing the noise.

Geo

On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 2:41 PM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

> History.  Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild.  When I
> started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds
> that then went way.  I figured it for a dry water pump.
>
> Squealing has returned.  Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or
> a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator.  Tried the
> stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump.  Squeal
> persisted.  Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then
> accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped
> abruptly.  What was THAT all about??
>
> So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt
> pulley on it, and reinstalled.  Same squeal as before.
>
> But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot
> weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the
> action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not
> going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage?
>
> Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything.
>
> Question:  If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would
> make much different noises than a belt squeal, right?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 24 16:51:19 2012
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>, "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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One possibility that I've encountered is a misalignment of the two pulleys, 
like the alternator is cocked to one side, or in a different plane.  You 
should be able to see it from the side.  I like George's solutions, and I'm 
sure others will come up with more.  I've had crank bearings go bad; they 
didn't squeal, and began to knock pretty quick.  I doubt that's the problem, 
especially with the sound disappearing with cold water on the alternator.
Skip Gurnee  64 TR4, 65 TR4A
Nevada

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 2:41 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Overheatng

History.  Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild.  When I 
started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds 
that then went way.  I figured it for a dry water pump.

Squealing has returned.  Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or a 
bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator.  Tried the stethoscope, 
couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump.  Squeal persisted. 
Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then accidently 
dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped abruptly.  What 
was THAT all about??

So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt 
pulley on it, and reinstalled.  Same squeal as before.

But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot weather. 
I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the action, the 
pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not going as 
fast as they should and the squealing is slippage?

Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything.

Question:  If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would 
make much different noises than a belt squeal, right?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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Thank you, everyone who responded.  After typing the initial question, I went straightaway to the car, sprayed some belt dressing on the belt and pulleys, then started it up.

Absolutely zero noise!  

Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much tension off the bearings as I can.  That said....

Thanks again!

Terry

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 24 21:33:00 2012
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Another possibility is the belt actually touching the pulleys along the bottom
of the belt.
The belt is actually NOT supposed to bottom out, but only touch along the
sides.


On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:04 PM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:

> Thank you, everyone who responded.  After typing the initial question, I
went straightaway to the car, sprayed some belt dressing on the belt and
pulleys, then started it up.
>
> Absolutely zero noise!
>
> Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much
tension off the bearings as I can.  That said....
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Terry
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Hi Terry,
I usually set tension of my TR4 fan belt near factory spec; 3/4" deflection on
longest run... and as 'loose as possible' while not being able to turn the
water pump or generator pulleys 'by hand, with my firmest grip'.

Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much
tension
off the bearings as I can.  That said...

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 25 15:13:58 2012
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved
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All,

I doubt anyone will remember, but a little under a year ago I posted an issue
about my Nisonger rebuilt fuel gauge not reading when full when the tank was.
Well, I finally got around to working it out and wanted to inform everyone.

The first test was to confirm that the rebuilt gauge was in fact working as
advertised.
I pulled the lead wire off of the sending unit, and grounded it to the ground
wire, and the fuel gauge went all the way full.
Gauge confirmed!

I pulled the sending unit from the tank and brought it to the workbench.
I attached a multimeter, and took the resistance readings:

Empty = 252.6 ohms
Full = 17.6 ohms

Moss part 763-020 is the wrong part for my narrow range (0 - 80 ohms) gauge.

Any clue where to get the correct range sender?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 16:49:45 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved
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BPNW, they carry one that should work.  

TRF, shows to have it as we p/n 203610.

Also, I notice that Moss lists a different gauge for the TR3, 763-000.  The
range you note, 0-80 or in my case 10-90, is correct for a TR3 gauge.  It
might be a long shot, but someone there might know the ohm range of these
two sending units.  Of course, it might just be that the one you got from
Moss is defective.

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 4:12 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved

All,

I doubt anyone will remember, but a little under a year ago I posted an
issue about my Nisonger rebuilt fuel gauge not reading when full when the
tank was.
Well, I finally got around to working it out and wanted to inform everyone.

The first test was to confirm that the rebuilt gauge was in fact working as
advertised.
I pulled the lead wire off of the sending unit, and grounded it to the
ground wire, and the fuel gauge went all the way full.
Gauge confirmed!

I pulled the sending unit from the tank and brought it to the workbench.
I attached a multimeter, and took the resistance readings:

Empty = 252.6 ohms
Full = 17.6 ohms

Moss part 763-020 is the wrong part for my narrow range (0 - 80 ohms) gauge.

Any clue where to get the correct range sender?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 25 16:00:44 2012
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From: "Brendan O'Shea" <boshea@adobe.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 14:58:01 -0700
Thread-Topic: [TR6] dist drive gear not engaging?
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Subject: [TR] [TR6] dist drive gear not engaging?
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Hello all,

     After a multi-year restoration & engine rebuild on my 73 TR6, I'm to the
point of starting the engine. The bad news is : no oil pressure when spinning
the engine with the starter motor.

     My first guess was the new oil pump was bad, so I put another new one in
- didn't help. Pulling the distributor & spinning the oil pump with a 0.5"
dowel brings up the pressure, so the pump itself is working.

     I finally started measuring things - the shaft on the distributor drive
gear is 1.375" from the bottom of the shoulder of the gear and has a 0.3125"
slot cut in the end; the oil pump shaft is 3.25" from the pump housing to the
start of the tongue, the tongue is 0.3125" (matching the slot on the
distributor drive gear). I've uploaded annotated photos in case my description
doesn't make sense : http://www.flickr.com/photos/85259444@N03/

     Heres the problem: the distance from the top of the oil pump bush (what
the distributor drive gear sits on) to the top of the installed oil pump
shaft's tongue is 1.375", so the distributor drive gear is not engaging the
oil pump. The oil pump is mounted flush with the engine block, there is no
slop in the oil pump shaft when the oil pump is assembled. The lengths of all
3 oil pump shafts (original, 1st & 2nd replacement) match; the housings are
all identical in height, so I think those lengths are correct. The distributor
drive gear has a pin through the shaft, so I don't think that has slipped.

   Does anyone have a distributor drive gear they could measure the shaft on?
Is 1.375" the correct length? How about an oil pump - is 3.25" from housing to
start of tongue correct? This page :
http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/10761/ShowThread.aspx says it should be
110mm (4.33"), but that can't be correct - maybe that is from top-of-rotor.

   What about the oil pump bush? Should that be flush with the engine block
from above or below? Mine is flush from below (oil pump side), about 0.125"
high on the distributor drive gear side. Note : I didn't remove this during
the rebuild, but I can't swear that the machine shop didn't; I don't feel any
gap below the lip of the bush, and it seems if it were any further in, the
gear wouldn't mesh with the cam.

  I've considered pushing the oil pump shaft out 0.125" - it is a press fit to
the rotor, so it might work - but it doesn't seem like I should have to do
that.

  Any idea what could be wrong?

Thanks in advance,
-Brendan O'Shea

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Me too!
On Aug 25, 2012 4:00 PM, "Carl Sereda" <carlsereda@aol.com> wrote:

> Hi Terry,
> I usually set tension of my TR4 fan belt near factory spec; 3/4"
> deflection on
> longest run... and as 'loose as possible' while not being able to turn the
> water pump or generator pulleys 'by hand, with my firmest grip'.
>
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
>
>
> Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much
> tension
> off the bearings as I can.  That said...
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 08:58:49 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 10:58:33 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Any one have this problem?
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List:

After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around my feet
and in sync with engine revs.  Turned out to be the servo non-return valve.
Advice was to keep trying until I found a valve which didn't "click"  So far
I have tried 5 (thanks to Marv Gruber for two) and still no luck.  The TR250
valves have three lugs and twist in a third of a turn, so they are harder to
come across than the later, TR6, variety.

Does anyone have experience with this and could it be something other than
the valve itself, say within the servo ?

Or if anyone has a decent valve they'd let me try, that would also be great.
Thanks in advance,

Andrew Uprichard
1962 TR3B
1968 TR250
1957 small-mouth (slow restoration)

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Subject: Re: [TR] Any one have this problem?
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> After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from 
> around my feet
> and in sync with engine revs.  Turned out to be the servo 
> non-return valve.

I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd
going on with the intake manifold vacuum.  That valve should only move when
the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think
the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down.

You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge.

I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by
the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?),
which might explain the vacuum variation.

One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to
the servo.  Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you
probably won't be able to hear it operate.

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 18:20:46 2012
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From: Roger Helman <rhelman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque,
 aftermarket starter motor  clearance issue
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I am trying to install a TRF light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket starter
motor on my TR6 with a free flow exhaust header.  I had to rotate the
entire starter so the blue wire ( which connects the solenoid to the
starter )  is directly over the free flow exhaust.header. The Solenoid and
starter motor are parallel in relation to each other and the bottom of the
car.

I am worried this will cook the blue wire and or starter.

Does anyone else have a similar setup?

If so what did you do?


Thanks
Roger
--
Roger Helman
rhelman@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 26 21:43:47 2012
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From: Roger Helman <rhelman@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, Triumph Email List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque,
 aftermarket starter  motor clearance issue
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Thanks Randall, those sound like great ideas.

Roger

On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 6:46 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a good place for a heat shield.  Maybe some fiberglass sleeving
> from MMC for the wire, and something like this
>
> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Thermo-Tec-7-x-22-in-starter-he
> at-shield/_/N-269n?itemIdentifier=953384_0_0_<http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Thermo-Tec-7-x-22-in-starter-heat-shield/_/N-269n?itemIdentifier=953384_0_0_>
> for the starter.  Or you can bend/cut something yourself from regular
> "roofing" tin (ask for "flashing tin" at Home Depot).  Even if you have to
> attach it to the header (eg cut a thin tab to bend down and fasten with a
> hose clamp), it will block a significant amount of heat.
>
> http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/BRISE_starter_2.jpg
>
> -- Randall
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Helman
> > Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:15 PM
> > To: Triumph Email List
> > Subject: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket
> > starter motor clearance issue
> >
> > I am trying to install a TRF light-weight, high-torque,
> > aftermarket starter
> > motor on my TR6 with a free flow exhaust header.  I had to rotate the
> > entire starter so the blue wire ( which connects the solenoid to the
> > starter )  is directly over the free flow exhaust.header. The
> > Solenoid and
> > starter motor are parallel in relation to each other and the
> > bottom of the
> > car.
> >
> > I am worried this will cook the blue wire and or starter.
> >
> > Does anyone else have a similar setup?
> >
> > If so what did you do?
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > Roger
> > --
> > Roger Helman
> > rhelman@gmail.com
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver@ca.rr.com
> >
>
>


-- 
--
Roger Helman
rhelman@gmail.com

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Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality??
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Hello,
Can anyone comment from an experience standpoint on the quality of the repro
bumpers for an early TR6?  I've heard things from "don't bother, they're
made from tin foil" to "not as good as original but it's ok".  I'm
interested specifically about the rear bumper center section for my '71 TR6.
Does anyone have one on their car at this time?  Has it been ok?  Any
vendors better than the others?  I'd much rather have the original
straightened and re-chromed, but here in SoCal the price of chrome work has
gone astronomical.
Thanks, Dennis

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality??
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Dennis,

I have seen SS versions of the early bumpers on Ebay from time to time. 
But only full sets of rear + front. They are going for about 1K. I have 
know knowledge of quality.

I had both my complete 3 piece rear and front bumpers (4 pieces) re 
chromed at a local plater for about 900 bucks 5 years ago. They even 
removed a small dent from the center rear bumper. Chrome is still as 
delivered.

The bumpers did not have any rust or pitting. They were just a bit on 
the green side, (nickel showing). That is why I chose to have them re 
chromed. You might want to check with some chrome shops that do 
motorcycles. They may be able to help you even though they may use out 
of state resources.

Bob

  On 08/27/2012 10:03 AM, D&B Lambert wrote:
> Hello,
> Can anyone comment from an experience standpoint on the quality of the repro
> bumpers for an early TR6?  I've heard things from "don't bother, they're
> made from tin foil" to "not as good as original but it's ok".  I'm
> interested specifically about the rear bumper center section for my '71 TR6.
> Does anyone have one on their car at this time?  Has it been ok?  Any
> vendors better than the others?  I'd much rather have the original
> straightened and re-chromed, but here in SoCal the price of chrome work has
> gone astronomical.
> Thanks, Dennis
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> here in SoCal the price of chrome work has
> gone astronomical.

I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the south.

-- Randall

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Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Cooler
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Hello All,
I am considering adding an oil cooler (13 row) to my 74 TR6. TRF has them on sale and now may be a good time to purchase. I run 20-50 and really only drive the car in the summer. I have noticed a drop in pressure as the car warms up to around 10-15PSI at idle. My questions are do I need to add a thermostat? When changing the oil how to you get old oil out of the cooler, or do you need not worry about that? Any other concerns I should be aware of.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Robert
Robert Rudolphi
1974 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 13:21:06 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Oil Cooler
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Robert, I have that installed on my 74 "6" with the  thermostat.  I also 
used 20-50 and have a aluminum  radiator.   Temp never moves.  Oil changes are 
another matter.  No way to get the  oil out of cooler unless you could use 
compress air, I think.  Never tried  it, just empty what I can and go from 
there.  Mounted the thermostat on the  body just above the engine mount.  
Seemed to work ok there.  good  luck.  Harry Mague
 
In a message dated 8/27/2012 2:57:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
robertrudolphi@yahoo.com writes:

Hello  All,
I am considering adding an oil cooler (13 row) to my 74 TR6. TRF has  them 
on sale and now may be a good time to purchase. I run 20-50 and really  only 
drive the car in the summer. I have noticed a drop in pressure as the car  
warms up to around 10-15PSI at idle. My questions are do I need to add a  
thermostat? When changing the oil how to you get old oil out of the cooler, or 
 do you need not worry about that? Any other concerns I should be aware  of.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Robert
Robert  Rudolphi
1974 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 13:37:47 2012
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Hello List:
Wondering if anyone has found a brake light switch that will work on the 
TR4/4A master cylinder bracket. I have used a big 3 'replacement' switch 
with very early failure. Has anyone sourced a readily available switch 
(FLAPS) that might work on the bracket?
Thanks for any help with this one - before I order another switch.
Angelo Graham

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality??
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East being (among other places) Tucson, Arizona:

It's been awhile since I had any bumpers done but I had the TR3 & 4 valve
covers rechromed earlier this year at Royal Plating and they were $75 each.

Royal does it all though there are other local shops that (I've heard) do
the prep & final but send it to Royal for the actual plating.

Geo

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM, <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > here in SoCal the price of chrome work has
> > gone astronomical.
>
> I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the
> south...

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Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler
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Hi,

Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb 
here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps, 
hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race 
motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would 
be called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you 
tow or you plan to sit in traffic all the time.

As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run 
an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210 
on a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets 
really hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to 
200-ish. So the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I 
have a 13-row cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve.

But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50), 
you're giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are 
other side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool.

I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler 
except possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil 
cooler make sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled 
bypass thingies because if you don't run one of those and you run your car 
when it's cold the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be 
bypassing the pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure 
will STAY at 100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note 
that you are adding a maintenance item to your system...

regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you 
need to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to 
your monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler 
and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, 
so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) 
the worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during 
oil changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil 
changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes.

But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race 
car. I don't have one on the street car.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 14:41:29 2012
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 brake light switch
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If the TR4 switch is like the TR6 switch, here's a couple of inexpensive yet 
quality alternatives http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AltBrakeSwitch.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:36 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 brake light switch

Hello List:
Wondering if anyone has found a brake light switch that will work on the
TR4/4A master cylinder bracket. I have used a big 3 'replacement' switch
with very early failure. Has anyone sourced a readily available switch
(FLAPS) that might work on the bracket?
Thanks for any help with this one - before I order another switch.
Angelo Graham

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 14:52:18 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:35:18 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Randall comes up with the answer again
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Randall:  you are amazing.  I bought a $6 in-line booster valve (Ford, I
believe) and no more noise. Thanks again !

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:27 AM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Any one have this problem?

> After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around 
> my feet and in sync with engine revs.  Turned out to be the servo 
> non-return valve.

I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd
going on with the intake manifold vacuum.  That valve should only move when
the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think
the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down.

You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge.

I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by
the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?),
which might explain the vacuum variation.

One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to
the servo.  Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you
probably won't be able to hear it operate.

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 14:54:05 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Robert M. Lang'" <lang@isis.mit.edu>, "'robert rudolphi'"
	<robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler
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Another consideration is blowing the oil cooler on a cold day if you don't
run it with a thermostat.  The coolers aren't meant to deal with the high
pressure of oil on a cold day.  Plus, the first thing you may notice is when
that oil warning light comes on.......

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:46 PM
To: robert rudolphi
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler

Hi,

Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb
here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps,
hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race
motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would be
called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you tow or
you plan to sit in traffic all the time.

As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run
an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210 on
a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets really
hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to 200-ish. So
the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I have a 13-row
cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve.

But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50), you're
giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are other
side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool.

I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler except
possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil cooler make
sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled bypass thingies
because if you don't run one of those and you run your car when it's cold
the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be bypassing the
pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure will STAY at
100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note that you are
adding a maintenance item to your system...

regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you need
to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to your
monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and
hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a
tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the
worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during oil
changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil
changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes.

But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race
car. I don't have one on the street car.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

________________________________________

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 15:01:30 2012
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality??
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I looked for weeks for a place to do the window frame and stanchions for my
latest TR3.  Finally found a place in Detroit which did the whole lot for
$275.  Thought that was a pretty good deal. Can supply details for anyone
interested.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:39 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality??

East being (among other places) Tucson, Arizona:

It's been awhile since I had any bumpers done but I had the TR3 & 4 valve
covers rechromed earlier this year at Royal Plating and they were $75 each.

Royal does it all though there are other local shops that (I've heard) do
the prep & final but send it to Royal for the actual plating.

Geo

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM, <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > here in SoCal the price of chrome work has gone astronomical.
>
> I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the 
> south...

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler
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what BOBSTA said

we are sub-3.00 minutes at Road America and dont run an oil cooler.

we did....but had to block off air to get oil temps up.

we also run a dead stock radiator and always have.

one less oil leak and one less failure opportunity.



Joe A
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com





-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2012 2:57 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler


Hi,

Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb
here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps,
hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race
motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would
be called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you
tow or you plan to sit in traffic all the time.

As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run
an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210
on a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets
really hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to
200-ish. So the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I
have a 13-row cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve.

But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50),
you're giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are
other side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool.

I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler
except possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil
cooler make sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled
bypass thingies because if you don't run one of those and you run your car
when it's cold the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be
bypassing the pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure
will STAY at 100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note
that you are adding a maintenance item to your system...

regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you
need to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to
your monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler
and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure,
so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually)
the worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during
oil changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil
changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes.

But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race
car. I don't have one on the street car.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

________________________________________

6pack@autox.team.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 16:01:47 2012
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The guy never ceases to amaze me, I have learned more about my car from this one member than anyone out there.
 
Randall, to you from all of us, thank you for your insight and experience.
 
Craig
1972 Triumph TR6 


On 08/27/12, Andrew Uprichard<auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:

Randall: you are amazing. I bought a $6 in-line booster valve (Ford, I
believe) and no more noise. Thanks again !

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:27 AM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Any one have this problem?

> After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around 
> my feet and in sync with engine revs. Turned out to be the servo 
> non-return valve.

I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd
going on with the intake manifold vacuum. That valve should only move when
the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think
the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down.

You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge.

I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by
the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?),
which might explain the vacuum variation.

One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to
the servo. Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you
probably won't be able to hear it operate.

-- Randall 

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> You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler 
> and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, 
> so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) 
> the worst time.

Ditto the lines to/from the cooler & thermostat.  Lines can rupture suddenly if they are chafing or get pulled tight under hard acceleration/cornering.  And a broken line can ruin your whole day, especially when the first symptom you notice is the clatter from the rod bearings ...

I know that's what Bob meant to say, I just wanted to emphasize the point.  Otherwise I agree entirely.

-- Randall

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FWIW, I had early failure with the one I got from my FLAPS.  Sorry I don't know the application.  When I tried to buy a replacement (different FLAPS) they couldn't figure out what it was from either.

The repro switch I got from TRF has been working well for a couple of years now.

Also FWIW, I kind of suspect the FLAPS switch failed because it got contaminated with DOT 5.

-- Randall

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> Randall, to you from all of us, thank you for your insight and experience.

Aw shucks, just tryin to help out.

-- Randall

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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:55:11 -0400
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Subject: [TR] America's British Reliability Run
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*Oct 19-21, Clinton, NJ. - America's British Reliability Run* 

America's British Reliability Run is a 650 mile weekend drive for 
charity through the states of NJ, NY, CT, VT and PA. Each two person 
team pays their own expenses and solicits donations to the partner 
charity, in this case the Shriner's Childrens Hospital of Philadelphia. 
Since 2002, the ABRR has raised over $150,000 for worthy childrens 
charities throughout the US. Open to British vehicles of any vintage. 

Learn more at www.BritishReliability.org
<http://www.BritishReliability.org>. 

Contact: Bob DeLucia. 
Email: _yukon80@comcast.net_ <yukon80@comcast.net>. 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 18:06:24 2012
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From: "Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board)" <FrankB@saceboard.sa.gov.au>
To: "tr3driver@ca.rr.com" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, robert rudolphi
	<robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 09:23:34 +0930
Thread-Topic: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler
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Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler
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I'll pitch in with my 2c here, after previously having an oil cooler on my
early '6. It's not on there any more - I believe mine either had a weakness in
it somewhere or developed one in the course of use and catastrophically failed
dumping all the oil from the engine in a very short period of time. Luckily,
that happened about 100m from my parents' driveway (which is where I was going
for lunch) and my folks had oil and the necessary tools and fittings to plug
the oil cooler lines at the filter adapter, so no real damage done.

In the period of time  I had it installed it did improve the idle oil
pressure, particularly in stop-go traffic in summer here when temperatures can
exceed 40 degrees Celsius. But I don't think that's enough to convince me to
ever install one again after the experience I had above...

Frank Biedermann
69 TR6 PI
Adelaide, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tr3driver@ca.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, 28 August 2012 7:20 AM
To: robert rudolphi
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler

> You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and hoses for
> problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a tiny
> crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the
> worst time.

Ditto the lines to/from the cooler & thermostat.  Lines can rupture suddenly
if they are chafing or get pulled tight under hard acceleration/cornering.
And a broken line can ruin your whole day, especially when the first symptom
you notice is the clatter from the rod bearings ...

I know that's what Bob meant to say, I just wanted to emphasize the point.
Otherwise I agree entirely.

-- Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 19:14:30 2012
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Subject: [TR] Fw: Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral
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On June 28, I posted the following message to the list. I received several
suggestions as to what the cause of the problem might be:
    - shift interlock in the top cover
    - clutch hydraulics
    - shift lever adjustment
    - clutch not releasing from the flywheel.

I think I have now ruled out most, if not all, of the above suggestions and am
appealing for any additional suggestions anyone might have.

I felt strongly that the shift interlock was the problem. I even ordered some
parts for it before taking it apart. When the parts didn't arrive, I removed
the top cover from the previous transmission I had in the TR4 and replaced the
top cover that I thought might be faulty on the current malfunctioning
transmission with the TR4 transmission top cover. After an hour of driving,
the problem came back. This seemed to rule out the shift interlock as the
problem as I had experienced no problems with the previous TR4 transmission in
several years of driving with it.

I checked the clutch hydraulics. They appeared to be within spec and the slave
maintained its position with the clutch pedal depressed.

I had used the TR4 shift lever on both the TR4 and TR6 top covers.

I removed the TR4 top cover and reinstalled the TR6 top cover. I installed the
TR6 shift lever and adjusted it as described it the TR6 Shop Manual.
Incidentally, the TR6 Shop Manual says to screw the locating pin in till it
touches the lever then back it off a half turn. The Haynes manual says, after
touching "screw the locating pin a further half turn.....".

On two recent occasions the temporary transmission jams occurred while the car
was stopped. While in neutral and stopped at a red light I couldn't shift out
of neutral into a forward gear. I finally had an opportunity to try reverse.
It went easily and cleanly into reverse. I shifted out of reverse but still
couldn't get it into a forward gear. I continued trying and finally got it
into first when the light changed. This was the first time I had tried to
shift into reverse when the forward gears were jammed. I was surprised at how
easily it went into reverse. The second occurrence was a repeat of the first.

There was no grinding of gears at any time during these incidents or any of
the previous incidents.

So I now know that these temporary jams are confined to the forward gears
only.

I don`t see how it could be the clutch if I can get into reverse while not
being able to get into a forward gear but I don`t know enough to rule it out.

I`m thinking it`s something in the transmission related to the forward gears
that occasionally jams. Given that this is an intermittent problem, I`m not
sure I`ll even recognize it when I see it. When I had the covers off the two
transmissions, the TR6 transmission was tighter and with less end float that
the previous TR4 transmission.

Any insights into what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated.

John Finlayson


----- Original Message -----
From: John Finlayson
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2012 8:19 PM
Subject: Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral

I have a '62 TR4 in which I have installed a TR6 transmission with A type
overdrive.

Very intermittently after shifting out of a gear I will find that I can't get
out of neutral into the gear I am intending to shift into, or to any forward
gear including the one I just came out of. This can occur when the car is
stopped or in motion.

I can be at a traffic light waiting in neutral for the light to change. When
the light changes I find I can't engage any forward gear. After trying
repeatedly to select a gear and engaging and disengaging the clutch I have so
far eventually been able to get the transmission "unlocked" and shifted into a
gear. The same applies when the car is in motion and when I am either up or
down shifting.

I don't recall overdrive ever being engaged when this occurs although it's
possible it may have been on some occasions.

There is no grinding of gears when this occurs. The shifter doesn't get even
close to selecting a gear. When I try to select a gear, I can freely move the
shifter laterally in neutral but not up or down to select any forward gear.The
shift lever feels like it is physically blocked from moving up or down....I
have not yet tried to select reverse when this occurs, just haven't thought to
try reverse.

These are infrequent events and have occurred since since the transmission was
installed a year or so ago. Their frequency and the effort required to get a
gear has increased recently, however. It happened three times on a ~30 mile
drive I took last week....twice while stopped at lights and once while gearing
down from 4th to 3rd while on the highway. I wasn't successful in getting it
into gear till after I had stopped.

Any suggestions on what the problem is would be greatly appreciated.

John Finlayson

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 27 19:28:32 2012
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 21:28:36 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring - TR3
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As I am finishing up the wiring on my project, I thought I might build in
the wiring for an electric fan now rather than later (after all this is
Florida).

 

Car is still positive ground.

I have an open connection on a brown wire fuse box (located next to the
factory fuse box) fed from A1 of control box.  Fuse for Overdrive and an
accessory panel (both on relays). I am looking at a manual switch only.

 

My thoughts:

Brown/white from fuse box to C1/30 on relay.    

C2/87 to Fan also indicator lamp (probably brown/white as well)

?? from ?? to Switch to W1/85 (when key on)  - what color? And where
connected?

W2/86 to ground.

 

Fan & Indicator lamp grounded.  As an alternative, I may use a switch with
an indicator lamp in the knob if I can find a spring for it.  Location TBD.

 

Relays are my nemesis.   am I correct?

Thanks

Carl

 

 

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

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From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 For Sale
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Hi List!
A person new that I was into TRIUMPH's & asked if I would spread the word about him wanting to sell his TR6. Feel free to contact him (Brian Same <jbs0073@aol.com>) NOT ME!
////////////
Cosmo,
Below is the ad for my TR6, modify if you want.
1972 Triumph TR6 Tan convertible / green, with tan leather interior; body off-frame restored, no rust, mechanicals are new or rebuilt. Has AC, oil cooler, competition suspension for lower smoother ride. Engine was rebulit by Roadster Factory. Two sets of wheels: chrome wire with black walls and stock power coated steel with red lines. Both sets of tires brand new. Car is former AWARD Winner in Class. Recent NYS inspected. Many extras including Tonneau cover, extra parts, original radio must see. Milage: 52,900. Please no trades, reasonable offers considered, call for details @716-289-2381or e-mail; jbs0073@aol.com 
Thanks,
Brian Same
//////////

-Cosmo Kramer

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 08:00:34 2012
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From: Doug <dougfr2@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] My TR6 has a cooler
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In addition to the thermostat there are two types of oil hoses available.  The
more reasonable in cost is just rubber.  The better oil hose is metal (wire
mess sorta) covered.  This is the better choice of the two - it will easily
withstand line pressures.

Doug Fraser
'69 TR6
Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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Hi List, 
Any opinions on the reliability 
of original wire wheels that have
never received maintenance (e.g., tuned, 
spokes replaced)?  What are the
chances of a wire wheel collapsing?  The wheels on 
my car are original with
all spokes accounted for and no visible rust.  The only 
thing I've done to
maintain them is powder-coating and wheel balance when tires 
are replaced.
Today, I had a nice drive on 
the Sacramento River road.  A lot of winding
road for miles with beautiful 
scenery of vineyards, small towns, boating,
etc.  However, the makeshift roadside 
altars marking auto fatalities (several
on the Sacramento levee) reminds one of 
the inherent dangers associated with
our cars. 

Thanks for any opinions...
Pat 
TR4A '67

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Subject: [TR] speedy bleed
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Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all
corners.  Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere.
I
ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth.  It
didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the
bleeder without any change.  I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a
suck or blow if its working right.  Has anyone else had an issue with speedy
bleeders?  Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work?

thanks
gary n.

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I've had them on my 6 for years and all you have to do is loosen them a turn 
and the fluif flows free. What they don't do is allow air back into the line 
from the bleeder point. So you loosen them, bleed and tighten.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary Nafziger
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 9:42 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] speedy bleed

Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all
corners.  Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere.
I
ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth. 
It
didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the
bleeder without any change.  I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a
suck or blow if its working right.  Has anyone else had an issue with speedy
bleeders?  Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work?

thanks
gary n.

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Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 23:10:36 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed
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Gives me a chuckle. Don't tell anyone but a few months ago,  in
desperation, i endeded up putting my mouth over the clutch res cap and
blowing until fluif came out. After that, it was all pump 3 times, bleed,
and repeat.  I'm glad Bob did not have a camera while i blew thru the cap!
On Aug 28, 2012 9:43 PM, "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all
> corners.  Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got
> nowhere.
> I
> ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth.
>  It
> didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the
> bleeder without any change.  I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a
> suck or blow if its working right.  Has anyone else had an issue with
> speedy
> bleeders?  Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work?
>
> thanks
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 21:17:16 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed
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When I had a fresh master cylinder on an MGB I tried to use the EZ bleeders, 
with a lot of air in the system to start I think I had some trouble getting 
the bleeder valve to open, once it is mostly fluid worked great, I think I 
switched back to the old bleeders to get started.

Greg Lemon 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 21:17:43 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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FWIW, I once read a comment from Kas Kastner that he liked wire wheels
because they fail gradually.  Steel wheels are more of an "all or nothing"
proposition.

At the very least though, I'd either tune them myself or get someone to do
it.  Loose spokes are almost a guarantee of broken spokes if you drive them
that way very long.

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 21:28:52 2012
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In my experience (and I drove on some pretty bad ones over the years) they 
tend to break a spoke or two, or once a little loose the lack of tension 
leads to further and faster deterioration, but I don't think they are very 
prone to catastrophic failure, maybe others have different stories to tell, 
but there is probably more chance of your front lower suspension mounts 
breaking if you are looking for something to worry about :)

Greg Lemon

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Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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The only catastrophic failure I had was spinning my 3 across a median curb,
bent one and busted a lot of spokes on the other so it drove sort of
egg-shaped, but it got me the next 5 miles to the house.

I'm with Greg, I don't think you have anything to worry about it all looks
tight and clean as you say.  You will have plenty of warning from a spoke
here or there when things are starting to so south.

Enjoy your ride,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 10:25 PM
To: P Caffrey; list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety

In my experience (and I drove on some pretty bad ones over the years) they
tend to break a spoke or two, or once a little loose the lack of tension
leads to further and faster deterioration, but I don't think they are very
prone to catastrophic failure, maybe others have different stories to tell,
but there is probably more chance of your front lower suspension mounts
breaking if you are looking for something to worry about :)

Greg Lemon

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 28 22:21:48 2012
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Similar story, I whacked a curb pretty good when the crappy tires on my old 
TR4a hydroplaned (or maybe it was a crappy driver).  Bent the heck out of 
the wheel, but it didn't fail completely, limped home.

Greg Lemon

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Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Acting Up
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     My TR3 temperature gauge doesn't come up to the usual temperature in our
cool mornings. I have a 185 thermostat, the bypass blanked off (with a 1/8
hole drilled in the pipe plug) and an electric cooling fan set to come on at
185 degrees. In the mornings my temp gauge reads like 100 degrees (on a
mid-50's morning). On my way home from work the outside temp is over 100 and
the temperature gauge reads like 135. I drive like hell too, it should be at
185 where it always has read.
     So I thought that it must be that the
thermostat was stuck open. I took out my infrared thermometer and measured the
water pump housing (about 195) and the thermostat housing (185) and the water
in the radiator and radiator itself (about 185), so the thermostat is working
apparently and the gauge was reading 135.

     I had the gauge and sender
rebuilt by West Valley Instrument about 10 years ago. Is the sending bulb in
the thermostat housing giving it up? I am afraid to try to take the bulb
sender unit out because if it isn't broke then it will be.
     What gives? Is
there something I should do before pulling the gauge and sending it out to
WVI?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

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> You will have plenty of warning 
> from a spoke
> here or there when things are starting to so south.

Keep an eye on the splines, though.  I had just backed out of the driveway
when mine failed, so no real drama; but it could have been a lot worse on
the freeway.

And make sure the special nuts that hold the adapters are tight.  They are
supposed to be torqued to 65 ftlb, which tighter than usual for steel
wheels.  I didn't even know I had a problem until the car went sideways on
an off-ramp.

-- Randall  

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Stock type gauge?

If so, it has probably leaked out all its ether.  Time to ship it off to WVI
again.

Worth asking, they might even warranty it, or at least give you a break on a
refill.

-- Randall  

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Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fan wiring - TR3
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> I am looking at a manual  switch only.

You might want to reconsider that, Carl.  I used a manual switch for many
years, and I was forever forgetting to turn it off, or worse, turn it on.
Feels really stupid to be sitting at long traffic light and realize that the
smoke drifting through the intersection is actually steam from your
radiator.

Being too stubborn (& cheap) to buy any of the many automatic switches on
the market, I finally made my own little trigger circuit from scrap
electronic components and an old gauge sender.  Another of those "Why didn't
I do that sooner?" moments!

> C2/87 to Fan also indicator lamp (probably brown/white as well)

> 
> ?? from ?? to Switch to W1/85 (when key on)  - what color? And where
> connected?

Start from the 'green' circuit (ie fused, controlled by ignition switch).
Or if you prefer, add another fuse fed from the white circuit.  Color is
kind of up to you, maybe green to the switch and then green/slate or
what-have-you to the relay.  I'm not slavish about having all the wire
colors unique (which is good, because all the wires in my original wiring
harness have faded to tan & black).

> Relays are my nemesis.   am I correct?

Yup, should work.

-- Randall  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 04:59:59 2012
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From: "Mitch R. Meisler" <mrm@clking.com>
To: 'Randall' <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, 'list Triumph' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 06:59:54 -0400
Thread-Topic: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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Related question.  Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels?  I've had
my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a
wobble at speed that tells me it's time.  An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in
NC?  Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast?

REGISTER/REQUEST MTGS W/80+ COS PRESENTING AT CL KING 10TH ANNUAL BEST IDEAS
CONFERENCE, 9/12-9/13 at the Omni Berkshire Hotel in NYC.
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CL King & Associates
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AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA
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The views and recommendations in this communication are views of the CL King &
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-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 12:50 AM
To: 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety

> You will have plenty of warning
> from a spoke
> here or there when things are starting to so south.

Keep an eye on the splines, though.  I had just backed out of the driveway
when mine failed, so no real drama; but it could have been a lot worse on the
freeway.

And make sure the special nuts that hold the adapters are tight.  They are
supposed to be torqued to 65 ftlb, which tighter than usual for steel wheels.
I didn't even know I had a problem until the car went sideways on an
off-ramp.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 06:49:31 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed
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Gary,

I also used speed bleeders on my 72. I had the same problems as you when 
trying to bleed from the rear. First, I loosened the fittings exiting 
the MC until I could see fluid flowing. Then I started on the right 
front and was able to get both front calipers to bleed correctly.

I then turned to the rears and I still couldn't get any fluid by pumping 
the MC. So I removed the line from the slave on the drivers side and 
just let it sit there with a cup underneath to catch any fluid.

Well, about an hour later, fluid started to drip so I re-attached the 
line and was able to bleed both rears just fine using the speed 
bleeders. I am guessing, since all my lines were empty, that I had so 
much air in the lines that I just had to let gravity do its job.

Some 6 owners have said it may be the pressure switch not letting fluid 
to the rears so make sure your switch is set correctly before and after 
bleeding. Others have said that the MC must be bench primed. I have 
never done that on any of my Triumphs.

Bob

  On 08/28/2012 09:42 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all
> corners.  Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere.
> I
> ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth.  It
> didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the
> bleeder without any change.  I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a
> suck or blow if its working right.  Has anyone else had an issue with speedy
> bleeders?  Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work?
>
> thanks
> gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 07:05:30 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed
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Here's a simple tool you can make to ease the pain of bleeding......

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeBleedTool.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Labuz 
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 8:51 AM 
To: Gary Nafziger 
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed 

Gary,

I also used speed bleeders on my 72. I had the same problems as you when 
trying to bleed from the rear. First, I loosened the fittings exiting 
the MC until I could see fluid flowing. Then I started on the right 
front and was able to get both front calipers to bleed correctly.

I then turned to the rears and I still couldn't get any fluid by pumping 
the MC. So I removed the line from the slave on the drivers side and 
just let it sit there with a cup underneath to catch any fluid.

Well, about an hour later, fluid started to drip so I re-attached the 
line and was able to bleed both rears just fine using the speed 
bleeders. I am guessing, since all my lines were empty, that I had so 
much air in the lines that I just had to let gravity do its job.

Some 6 owners have said it may be the pressure switch not letting fluid 
to the rears so make sure your switch is set correctly before and after 
bleeding. Others have said that the MC must be bench primed. I have 
never done that on any of my Triumphs.

Bob

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Hi List,
Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials.  I have been
chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge.  It is
a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after the
brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's
difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire
rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle
flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane bushings,
new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened but
the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying.  So I am really stumped
with this one.  Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the knock
that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off?
Cheers,
Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: "'Darrell Floyd'" <tr250driver@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<6pack@autox.team.net>
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Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 09:51:58 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Knock in rear brakes?
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My first two thoughts would be the exhaust system moving against something
when you apply the brakes.  Or, your rear brake shoes/pads moving just a
little on the first tap.

For the exhaust, just shake everything and check the clearances as you did
with the rear suspension.  For the brakes, jack up the rear, set the parking
brake and turn the wheel forward/backward, or shift from 1st to reverse, to
see if there is any play.  Is it possible to have someone stand along side
the car as you drive by slowly and apply the brakes to listen for the knock?

Just my two cents,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Floyd
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:31 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes?

Hi List,
Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials.  I have
been chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge.
It is a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately
after the brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes
but that's difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over
the entire rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side
axle flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane
bushings, new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were
tightened but the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying.  So I am
really stumped with this one.  Should I just turn the radio up louder or is
this the knock that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off?
Cheers,
Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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Subject: Re: [TR] Knock in rear brakes?
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I had what a noise that I was convinced was a rear wheel bearing.  When I 
crawled under the car to pull the hub off I found it was the U-joint on the 
half shaft.  What luck.  

U-joint problems can be obvious but sometimes they can be misleading.

Dave

In a message dated 8/29/2012 9:31:11 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr250driver@aol.com writes: 
> Hi List,
> Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials.  I have 
> been
> chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge.  
> It is
> a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after 
> the
> brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's
> difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire
> rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle
> flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane 
> bushings,
> new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened 
> but
> the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying.  So I am really stumped
> with this one.  Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the 
> knock
> that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off?
> Cheers,
> Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Knock in rear brakes?
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The other thing which springs to mind is were the half shafts separated male
from female during the rebuild? Service Dept accepted practice (endorsed by my
shop manual on the Big Saloon with basically the same suspension set-up)
recommends centre-punching each half before splitting. This way you get the
same grooves and splines mating up on rebuild and a smear of copper-slip also
helps
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: "Dave1massey@cs.com"
<Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, 29 August
2012, 16:31
Subject: Re: [TR] Knock in rear brakes?


>I had what a noise that
I was convinced was a rear wheel bearing.  When I 
>crawled under the car to
pull the hub off I found it was the U-joint on the 
>half shaft.  What luck. 
>
>U-joint problems can be obvious but sometimes they can be misleading.
>
>Dave
>
>In a message dated 8/29/2012 9:31:11 AM Central Daylight Time,
>tr250driver@aol.com writes: 
>> Hi List,
>> Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the
trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials.  I have 
>> been
>> chasing a knock in the
rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge.  
>> It is
>> a singular
knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after 
>> the
>> brakes
are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's
>>
difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire
>>
rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle
>>
flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane 
>>
bushings,
>> new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were
tightened 
>> but
>> the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying.  So I
am really stumped
>> with this one.  Should I just turn the radio up louder or
is this the 
>> knock
>> that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off?
>>
Cheers,
>> Darrell
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety
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On Wed, 29 Aug 2012 at 06:59 AM Mitch R. Meisler wrote:

>
> Related question.  Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels?  I've
had
> my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a
> wobble at speed that tells me it's time.  An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in
> NC?  Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast?

Seriously? A four line query and a 41 line signature/advertisement?

I have heard good things about Hendrix and believe they have been around for
some time.

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Sorry for the 41 lines!! Forgot to delete my work propoganda


Subject: Re: Wire Wheels--Safety

On Wed, 29 Aug 2012 at 06:59 AM Mitch R. Meisler wrote:


Related question.  Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels?  I've had
my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a
wobble at speed that tells me it's time.  An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in
NC?  Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast?

Seriously? A four line query and a 41 line signature/advertisement?

I have heard good things about Hendrix and believe they have been around for
some time.

______________________________________________________________________
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 16:01:32 2012
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From: Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] Wire wheels
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No one else to consider except Hendrix
They really know their stuff
Highly recommended

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A
with a bent nose after a pickup truck backed into me last week <sigh>

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 29 20:59:49 2012
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Subject: [TR] Trunnion Seals
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Has anyone ever replaced the thin seals that go under the flat washers 
for the trunnion with a like sized O-ring? Those seals seem to crack and 
break after no time at all. I have a selection of O-rings and the 1/8" 
thickness, 1-3/16" ID x 1-7/16" OD fits great. Anyone see a downside to 
this?

Thanks,
Kurt Oblinger
Redondo Beach, Ca.
(too many projects)

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Here is a great weekend ride with fellow British car nuts, that is for a great
cause. Please help us to drum up interest, and participants.



Thanks for your help!

The Route for the ABRR has been posted, and now begins and ends in  Clinton,
NJ! The total length of the drive will be approximately 650 miles spread out
over two days with planned stops at Lime Rock Park for parade laps,
Bennington, VT for a private tour of the Hemmings Gas Station led by Hemmings
Sports and Exotic Editor David LaChance (who will be driving his Rover Saloon
as a participant), Chester, NY for a tour of a private collection of Lotus
cars, and an overnight stop in Schenectady. The route passes through NJ, NY,
CT, MA, VT and PA and stays almost exclusively on State, US and back roads
with little or no driving on the Interstates.
Steve Klein
klassiccar@aol.com
Delaware Valley Triumphs







October 19-21, 2012

Clinton, NJ. - America's British Reliability Run
America's British Reliability Run is a 650 mile weekend drive for charity
through the states of NJ, NY, CT, VT and PA. Each two person team pays their
own expenses and solicits donations to the partner charity, in this case the
Shriner's Childrens Hospital of Philadelphia. Since 2002, the ABRR has raised
over $150,000 for worthy childrens charities throughout the US. Open to
British vehicles of any vintage. Learn more atwww.BritishReliability.org.
Contact: Bob DeLucia. Phone: --. Email:yukon80@comcast.net.

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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 in Albuquerque
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Saw a very nice white TR6 parked on Coal Ave Monday morning, anyone on the
list?

Cliff

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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
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Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965
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List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be
stamped into the frame?

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Roland
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 8:47 AM
To: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965

 

  


Dear Membership

I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the
tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered
in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these
certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated.
Roland

> 
> From: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com <mailto:CTRIUMPH%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com <mailto:CTRIUMPH%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
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> Subject: [CTR] BUGATTI VEYRON
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 31 09:07:55 2012
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:09:01 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Question
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All,

My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H".
Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 31 09:14:01 2012
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Subject: Re: [TR] Temp Gauge Question
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Hi Guy,

The gauge on my TR4A is marked in Centigrade, it is 30 on the low end, 70 at the middle, and 100 at the high end.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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To: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965
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Alex,

There is a body # located somewhere near the right rear wheel well but I 
cant remember exactly where. But this is not the commission number you 
are seeking. There should also be a body # on the upper engine bay on 
the left just in front of the regulator. But this is not the commission 
number either. On my 4, the numbers around 6000 apart. I think the 
engine # should be closer to the commission # but cant be sure since I 
cannot read mine. Eyes too bad and it is painted black.

Maybe you can contact your DMV for guidance? If they approve, you can 
buy a new plate and stamp in the number that is recorded on the  title.

Bob

On 08/31/2012 10:38 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
> List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be
> stamped into the frame?
>
>   
>
> Alex Thomson

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Subject: Re: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965
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Having examined every inch of two TR4A frames I would say no.  There's a frame number stamped into the front crossmember but its not the same as the car's VIN.

Cliff


-----Original Message-----
>From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net>
>Sent: Aug 31, 2012 8:38 AM
>To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965
>
>List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be
>stamped into the frame?
>
> 
>
>Alex Thomson
>
> 
>
>From: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
>Of Roland
>Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 8:47 AM
>To: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965
>
> 
>
>  
>
>
>Dear Membership
>
>I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the
>tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered
>in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these
>certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated.
>Roland
>
>> 
>> From: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com <mailto:CTRIUMPH%40yahoogroups.com>
>[mailto:CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com <mailto:CTRIUMPH%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
>Behalf
>> Of Terry Telke
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 10:38 AM
>> To: ctRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ctRIUMPH%40yahoogroups.com> 
>> Subject: [CTR] BUGATTI VEYRON
>>
>
>__._,_.___
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Subject: Re: [TR] VIN for TR-4 1965
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Roland,

My '67 4A had the VIN stamped on one of the front spring towers (don't
recall which one), but I only saw it after I sandblasted the stripped frame.
It's faint and more than likely covert with some dirt, and in a really tough
spot to see unless the you have the naked frame to inspect.  IMHO, if you
have the clear title in hand and the car is currently registered, I don't
see an issue. VIN plates are readily available from Moss and easy to stamp.
Why not order a plate yourself and correct the issue? That's the simplest
solution.

Brian
'66 AH Sprite (driver)
'63 MGB (in resto process)
'73 Stag (waiting patiently for her turn)

------------------------------



Dear Membership

I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the
tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered
in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these
certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated.
Roland

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From: richard triplett <rtriplett25@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Sorry for the spam sent out. It took ~ 15 years, but my yahoo acct got hacked. A stronger password should take care of it, otherwise I will have to remove this email from the list. 

Good thing I only use yahoo for the TR list. Minimal contacts.

Triumph-related, my TR3 is still running like a top!

Richard
TS75434L

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On 8/31/2012 11:09 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
>
> My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H".
> Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"?

"Chilly" and "Hades"?

Sorry, it's Friday.  That's the best I can do...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga. - now with Extra Moisture!

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 31 14:52:12 2012
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 16:56:24 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Vintage Triumph Signs
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Anyone have any vintage Triumph dealer signs and the like that they would
like to sell?  Please contact me off list. 

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

Trguy75@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 31 15:14:25 2012
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That's the beauty of using "C" and "H," you don't have to worry about 
accuracy.

Dave

In a message dated 8/31/2012 10:10:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
guy@genfiniti.com writes: 
> My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H".
> Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"?

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Subject: Re: [TR] VIN for TR-4 1965
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Hi Roland,

Sorry, but as others have already responded, none of the other numbers you
might find will match the VIN.

There are numbers on the body, the frame, the engine, the gearbox and the rear
end.... Some of those might be close, but on Triumphs they never match the VIN
number. Sometimes they are way, way off. There was no effort made to match the
numbers at the factory. Whatever happened to be on top of the pile got put
together, period.

Last time I looked, you can buy brand new VIN plates, not yet imprinted with
the number. Check with all the usual suppliers. I'm sure one or several offer
them. Take one of those and your registration and/or title to a machine shop
and have them stamp the number onto it for you (if you don't want to buy a set
of number stamps and do it yourself). If I recall correctly, the letters and
numbers are 1/4 inch tall. On a TR4 what will probably be imprinted is first
the year of registration followed by "CT", then the number, followed by "L"
for lefthand drive, and possibly by "O" if your car was originally fitted with
an overdrive. For example, on my car it's "1964 CT17602L".

After it's stamped, pop rivet the new VIN plate onto the car (usually located
on the flat area sort of under the wiper motor on TR4), and you're all set!
Problem solved!

If you didn't have the title certificate or wanted to check its accuracy, you
can get a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust build certificate for your car
that will list all the original details of your car, including some of the
serial numbers, interior and exterior colors, factory installed options and
accessories, the port of departure from England and port of arrival in the US,
and usually even the name of the ship that brought it to the new world.

If you want a build certificate, you'll have to check with BMIHT to see how
long it takes and what they need to track one down. I just gave them my VIN
number when I ordered my build certificate years ago, but they might be able
to cross reference from one of the other numbers, if you locate those and are
certain that parts never been swapped out for one from another car.

Here's a link to BMIHT:

http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/archive-services/



Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
'62 TR CT 17602L
twww.triumphowners.com/640




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request <triumphs-request@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Aug 31, 2012 11:06 am
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 357



Dear Membership

I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the
tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered
in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these
certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated.
Roland

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:28:26 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Adustable Upper Fulcrum Kit
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Don't know if the link below for Moss UK will come through but I got an
email ad from them this week for an adjustable upper fulcrum kit.  Seems
this would be a fine addition to the handling of a basically stock TR3.
Moss UK part number is: 200659X at a cost of #122.46.

Has anyone used these?  Are they worth the investment?  Is there a stateside
source, as Moss US does not list them?

View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit:
<http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Graphics/UK/email/BOB512-buy-now.jpg>

Have a great weekend, NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

________________________________

From: Moss Europe Ltd. [mailto:moss@moss-europe.co.uk]
________________________________

Customer favourites recommended by our very own Sales Team!

...This is what our sales team say other TR2-4A customers have been buying
recently...

Adjustable Front Upper Fulcrum Kit
<http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4848&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
mail=wbeech@flash.net>
Allows easy adjustment of the camber angle of the front suspension. Designed
primarily for competition use to give maximum control for setting the camber
angle, it is also useful for correcting alignment problems on slightly
distorted chassis.

Tweet this product <http://twitter.com/home?status=I like this TR2-4A
adjustable front upper fulcrum kit from Moss Europe http://bit.ly/RpSwCT
@MossEurope> 	 View adjustable front upper fulcrum kit
<http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4849&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
mail=wbeech@flash.net>
Part No. 200659X
#122.46 ex VAT
#146.95 inc VAT

View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit
<http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4850&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
mail=wbeech@flash.net> 	 Tweet this product
<http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Graphics/UK/email/CF812-5-stars.jpg> 5/5
Stars!

Kind regards,
Matthew Hutchins
Marketing Manager

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 31 17:42:08 2012
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Adustable Upper Fulcrum Kit
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That TR2-4 upper fulcrum kit is one of Neil Revington's parts.
http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=WW7WU9QQ62H98J16EUQ134N19UNT5AV2&CarType=TR3&ProductID=RTR3112K

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7614&SortOrder=1

I don't have one on my car, and I've heard only a little about it
(positive FWIW).

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L



On 8/31/12, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
> Don't know if the link below for Moss UK will come through but I got an
> email ad from them this week for an adjustable upper fulcrum kit.  Seems
> this would be a fine addition to the handling of a basically stock TR3.
> Moss UK part number is: 200659X at a cost of #122.46.
>
> Has anyone used these?  Are they worth the investment?  Is there a
> stateside
> source, as Moss US does not list them?
>
> View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit:
> <http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Graphics/UK/email/BOB512-buy-now.jpg>
>
> Have a great weekend, NFI,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Moss Europe Ltd. [mailto:moss@moss-europe.co.uk]
> ________________________________
>
> Customer favourites recommended by our very own Sales Team!
>
> ...This is what our sales team say other TR2-4A customers have been buying
> recently...
>
> Adjustable Front Upper Fulcrum Kit
> <http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4848&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
> mail=wbeech@flash.net>
> Allows easy adjustment of the camber angle of the front suspension.
> Designed
> primarily for competition use to give maximum control for setting the
> camber
> angle, it is also useful for correcting alignment problems on slightly
> distorted chassis.
>
> Tweet this product <http://twitter.com/home?status=I like this TR2-4A
> adjustable front upper fulcrum kit from Moss Europe http://bit.ly/RpSwCT
> @MossEurope> 	 View adjustable front upper fulcrum kit
> <http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4849&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
> mail=wbeech@flash.net>
> Part No. 200659X
> #122.46 ex VAT
> #146.95 inc VAT
>
> View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit
> <http://maildogmanager.com/link.html?url=4850&client=mosseuro&campaign=937&e
> mail=wbeech@flash.net> 	 Tweet this product
> <http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Graphics/UK/email/CF812-5-stars.jpg> 5/5
> Stars!
>
> Kind regards,
> Matthew Hutchins
> Marketing Manager
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
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Listers - Thanks to all who responded to a CTR member's question about VIN
plates. 

 

Alex Thomson

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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