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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 20:02:55 -0500
Thread-index: Ac3ohOX8VpAmATWnSsixQV7hf83dhg==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
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Having one of those - "I can't recall" moments.   I am putting the gear
shift lever back in the car.  at the bottom end there is a small hole that
appears to have something in it.   I can't figure out what.  I sort of
recall a spring and ball but not sure.   anyone been there?

 

Any idea of a source?

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1961 TR3A - TS81802LO

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 20:20:40 -0500
Thread-index: Ac3ohOX8VpAmATWnSsixQV7hf83dhgAAhzcw
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. 
Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.  
Anyone know?
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:03 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Having one of those - "I can't recall" moments.   I am putting the gear
shift lever back in the car.  at the bottom end there is a small hole that
appears to have something in it.   I can't figure out what.  I sort of
recall a spring and ball but not sure.   anyone been there?

Any idea of a source?

Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 17:42:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

happy new year to all
B 
Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have
suffered an idle speed that I canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best.
Now
that the season is over I decided to fix some things.
When I put the car back
on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint
brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have.
B 
B 
Had my distributor
rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today.
B 
Decided to work the carbs myself.
In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the throttle
shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT increase engine
speed.
I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new
diaphragm.
While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle
shafts to be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings
to be only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to
replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new
throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a very
big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for measuring. Ibm
confident in those numbers.
Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground
surfaces to mate against carb.
B 
fitted the carbs today also.
B 
Got the car
together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed.
B 
If I
put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by
about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do that
for me made the pedal horribly heavy.
B 
Disengaged the PCV valve to see if
there was an air leak. No.
B 
Squirted starter fluif around the intake
manifold. No change in idle speed.
B 
I guess I did not spray the throttle
shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again.
B 
Car runs, but not right
just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs,
kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with ignition
for now.
Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I
donbt have the 2500 howl.
B 
Any thoughts on where to start looking for
cause of idle speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday
B 
Thanks
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 19:36:55 2013
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References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net>
	<000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As I recall the spring goes in the hole, the plunger on top, and then 
one fits
the shift lever such that as you go to put it in position the plunger pops
out and rolls under an immovable cabinet.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 19:45:02 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Foster, Stan \(HP IT\)'" <stan.foster@hp.com>, "'Mark J Bradakis'"
	<mark@bradakis.com>
References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net>
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	<A048F19A074BE54BA1D9E4B8A2A7D88B3609E9F3@G2W2527.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 21:41:00 -0500
Thread-index: Ac3ohOX8VpAmATWnSsixQV7hf83dhgAAhzcwAAG0LQAAARwXUA==
Content-language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference.
Thanks

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster@hp.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in
next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and
stops the rattle.

The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it
around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and
holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it
all balanced.

Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with
your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will
remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. 
Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.  
Anyone know?
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 21:18:24 2013
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From: HANS DEFERRANTE <sukatr3@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 20:13:51 -0800
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,
I am restoring a  Spit 1500 and can't remember or figure out where and how the
trunk  light switch is located. Could someone help me out, preferably with a
pic?
Thanks
Hans
61TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 21:39:32 2013
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From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster@hp.com>
To: "cfmtr3a@verizon.net" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, 'Mark J Bradakis'
	<mark@bradakis.com>
Thread-Topic: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
Thread-Index: Ac3ohOX8VpAmATWnSsixQV7hf83dhgAAhzcwAAG0LQAAARwXUAAD/tXQ
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 04:35:41 +0000
References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net>
	<000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net>
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x-originating-ip: [15.217.50.20]
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the
plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the
behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to cinch
up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the plunger
and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are cheap.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference.
Thanks

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster@hp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in
next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and
stops the rattle.

The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it
around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds
the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all
balanced.

Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your
hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain
where they should and you can lift away the wire tie.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424.
Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.
Anyone know?
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  1 21:53:29 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 22:50:25 -0600
thread-index: Ac3oioiwH2/fJjNPS62vq7suTb2QcQAGYGAg
Subject: Re: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Frank,

Please post the successful result, I have the same problem.  I can pull back
on the accel pedal and reduce the engine speed by 500rpm.  Springs are all
good, tight and in the proper slots.  I did notice that a friends 1962
Morgan, TR3 motor, has an additional return spring off a bracket mounted to
the front exhaust mani-bolt.  I can get a little bog when I spray started
fluid at one of the newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play
there.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3

happy new year to all
B
Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I
canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best.
Now
that the season is over I decided to fix some things.
When I put the car back
on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint
brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have.
B
B
Had my distributor
rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today.
B
Decided to work the carbs myself.
In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the
throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT
increase engine speed.
I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new
diaphragm.
While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to
be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be
only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to
replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new
throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a
very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for
measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers.
Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against
carb.
B
fitted the carbs today also.
B
Got the car
together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed.
B
If I
put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by
about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do
that for me made the pedal horribly heavy.
B
Disengaged the PCV valve to see if
there was an air leak. No.
B
Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed.
B
I guess I did not spray the throttle
shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again.
B
Car runs, but not right
just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs,
kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with
ignition for now.
Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have
the 2500 howl.
B
Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be
appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 05:24:03 -0800 (PST)
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello All,

I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday and
noticed there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket the
right size to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I was
wondering if anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket to
remove this bolt.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert Rudolphi
74
TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 07:01:34 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Roadster Factory (and maybe Moss, too) carry a special wrench just for that.
This wrench, developed by Joe Alexander (on this list) with a square hole on
one end for the square headed plugs on transmissions and differentials and a
1/4 inch square hole on the other end for brake bleeders.  This should be
standard equipment in any tool kit.

I don't know if this is the case but if it IS a 3/8 square head you can put a
3/8 socket on backwards (you may have to file on the plug where it has been
rounded off) and drive the socket with a hex key.  Or you can get a coupler at
the hardware store in any convenient size.

Some folks routinely replace these with hex head variety or the hex socket
type.  Not a bad idea.  I have a brass hex head plug on the TR6 transmission.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>

Hello All,I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday andnoticed
there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket theright size
to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I waswondering if
anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket toremove this
bolt.Thanks in advance for any assistance.Robert Rudolphi74TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 07:19:06 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Foster, Stan \(HP IT\)'" <stan.foster@hp.com>,
	<cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net>
	<000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net>
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Really?  I just installed a shift lever 2 days ago, and there was a bolt
going all the way through, so the spring and plunger had to be either facing
forward or facing back.  So I went to a parts car and checked there - facing
back. One other interesting observation is that the plunger has a flat
surface and a rounded one.  Intuition would be that the rounded surface
would point out from the lever, but in my 250 it wouldn't shift unless I had
the flat surface facing out.  In the TR3 it made no difference.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:36 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the
plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the
behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to
cinch up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the
plunger and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are
cheap.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference.
Thanks

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster@hp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in
next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and
stops the rattle.

The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it
around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and
holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it
all balanced.

Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with
your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will
remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424.
Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.
Anyone know?
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 07:55:14 2013
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From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster@hp.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>, "cfmtr3a@verizon.net"
	<cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, 'Mark J Bradakis' <mark@bradakis.com>
Thread-Topic: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
Thread-Index: Ac3ohOX8VpAmATWnSsixQV7hf83dhgAAhzcwAAG0LQAAARwXUAAD/tXQABRT+gAAAOnBoA==
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, my mistake.  Thanks Andrew for catching it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 9:15 AM
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); cfmtr3a@verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Really?  I just installed a shift lever 2 days ago, and there was a bolt going
all the way through, so the spring and plunger had to be either facing forward
or facing back.  So I went to a parts car and checked there - facing back. One
other interesting observation is that the plunger has a flat surface and a
rounded one.  Intuition would be that the rounded surface would point out from
the lever, but in my 250 it wouldn't shift unless I had the flat surface
facing out.  In the TR3 it made no difference.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:36 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the
plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the
behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to cinch
up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the plunger
and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are cheap.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM
To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference.
Thanks

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster@hp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in
next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and
stops the rattle.

The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it
around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds
the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all
balanced.

Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your
hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain
where they should and you can lift away the wire tie.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever

I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424.
Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.
Anyone know?
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 08:13:21 2013
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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 10:10:37 -0500
To: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Robert,

What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on square bolt heads
with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little set of 4 8-point sockets I got at
either Harbor Fright or Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the
differential and the size that fits the brake adjuster - I have Joe
Alexander's tool that Dave Massey referenced and I prefer it for the brake
adjuster, but if you have the 8 point socket for the diff plug and about a 2
foot extension, you can reach the diff plug with the right rear wheel off and
apply a lot of torque to get a stubborn plug out. Of course the J.A. Tool is
better for the gearbox fill plug - I'm glad I have both tools

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:24 AM, robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday and
> noticed there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket
the
> right size to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I was
> wondering if anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket to
> remove this bolt.
>
> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
>
> Robert Rudolphi
> 74
> TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:34:40 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/2/13 8:10 AM, Jack Mc wrote:
> Robert,
>
> What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on square bolt heads
> with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little set of 4 8-point sockets I got at
> either Harbor Fright or Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the
> differential
You mean I didn't have to chase down a Snap-On truck to get a very 
expensive 8 point socket to fit my square head drain plug?

Oh well, I've always preferred snap-on tools whenever I could afford one 
and only needed one size.

TeriAnn
1961 TR3A
1960 Land Rover Dormobile
I don't need any other cars.  They would just dilute my driving experience.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 07:44:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The square-head GBX fill & drain plugs and the differential fill plug (no
drain 
plug unfortunately) on my '64 TR4 are easily turned with a 7/16" 8
point 3/8" 
drive socket; about $ 6.00 from McMaster Carr - 5544A54. 
5544A54 
 5544A54 

Jay
 
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 07:50:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>, 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill
i will post loud and often. :-)
but so far no suggestions at all.
Frank
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>;
'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 8:50 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3

Frank,

Please post the successful
result, I have the same problem.  I can pull back
on the accel pedal and
reduce the engine speed by 500rpm.  Springs are all
good, tight and in the
proper slots.  I did notice that a friends 1962
Morgan, TR3 motor, has an
additional return spring off a bracket mounted to
the front exhaust
mani-bolt.  I can get a little bog when I spray started
fluid at one of the
newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play
there.

All the best,
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in
rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent:
Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Causes of fast
idle TR3

happy new year to all
B
Since putting the TR3 back on the road I
have suffered an idle speed that I
canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best.
Now
that the season is over I decided to fix some things.
When I put the car
back
on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it
aint
brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have.
B
B
Had my distributor
rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today.
B
Decided to work the carbs myself.
In
the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the
throttle
shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT
increase engine
speed.
I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new
diaphragm.
While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle
shafts to
be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings
to be
only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to
replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new
throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a
very
big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for
measuring. Ibm
confident in those numbers.
Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground
surfaces to mate against
carb.
B
fitted the carbs today also.
B
Got the car
together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed.
B
If I
put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by
about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do
that
for me made the pedal horribly heavy.
B
Disengaged the PCV valve to see if
there was an air leak. No.
B
Squirted starter fluif around the intake
manifold. No change in idle speed.
B
I guess I did not spray the throttle
shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again.
B
Car runs, but not right
just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs,
kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with
ignition
for now.
Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I
donbt have
the 2500 howl.
B
Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause
of idle speed will be
appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 11:00:22 2013
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From: HANS DEFERRANTE <sukatr3@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:52:31 -0800
References: <25073082.1357144950168.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>, Triumph List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>, Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Roger,
I found it !. As soon as I read your email I remembered It. Do you by any
chance have a post '75 California Spit . There are 2 mysterious wire
connectors coming out of the wire harness near those relays/flashers on the
firewall in the engine bay. Are they intended to connect to EGR test equipment
of sorts? The wiring diagram shows some sort of plug connector that seemed to
be missing when I bought it but the wire color code is different.
Happy New Year!
Hans

On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Roger Elliott wrote:

> Hi Hans,
>
> The switch is on the left hand side and activated by the trunk hinge.
>
> Let me know if you haven't gotten any pictures.  I can take one and send it
to you but it will tonight before I can get to it.
>
> Roger
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: HANS DEFERRANTE <sukatr3@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Jan 1, 2013 10:13 PM
>> To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch
>>
>> Hi List,
>> I am restoring a  Spit 1500 and can't remember or figure out where and how
the
>> trunk  light switch is located. Could someone help me out, preferably with
a
>> pic?
>> Thanks
>> Hans
>> 61TR3A
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr@rmi.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 12:20:19 -0600
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm wondering if the butterfly alignment could be a little out of line.
Thinking of pulling them off and loosen & re-tightening them.

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jan 2, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

Bill
i will post loud and often. :-)
but so far no suggestions at all.
Frank

From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 8:50 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3

Frank,

Please post the successful result, I have the same problem.  I can pull back
on the accel pedal and reduce the engine speed by 500rpm.  Springs are all
good, tight and in the proper slots.  I did notice that a friends 1962
Morgan, TR3 motor, has an additional return spring off a bracket mounted to
the front exhaust mani-bolt.  I can get a little bog when I spray started
fluid at one of the newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play
there.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3

happy new year to all
B
Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I
canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best.
Now
that the season is over I decided to fix some things.
When I put the car back
on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint
brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have.
B
B
Had my distributor
rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today.
B
Decided to work the carbs myself.
In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the
throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT
increase engine speed.
I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new
diaphragm.
While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to
be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be
only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to
replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new
throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a
very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for
measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers.
Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against
carb.
B
fitted the carbs today also.
B
Got the car
together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed.
B
If I
put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by
about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do
that for me made the pedal horribly heavy.
B
Disengaged the PCV valve to see if
there was an air leak. No.
B
Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed.
B
I guess I did not spray the throttle
shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again.
B
Car runs, but not right
just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs,
kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with
ignition for now.
Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have
the 2500 howl.
B
Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be
appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 12:17:32 2013
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 13:13:02 -0600
	FILETIME=[2F4F4520:01CDE91D]
Subject: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hello Triumph list members,
I have been away from this list for several years.  I've been hanging out on
the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly.  But I have
come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to
restore.  He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can find
within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO.  He has found several cars, but hasn't
found the one he wants yet.  So I figured I could get him on this list and
perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested
in.  I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4.  Then maybe the TR6 or
TR3.  He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago.  Now he has time & money, and
the desire to do another car.
This is my first posting since signing up this morning.  If this is working,
I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone
directly.
Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
www.sltoa.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 12:42:07 2013
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping
to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested.

I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata
seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale.

Contact me off list if interested.  Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky.

Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 12:43:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 13:40:25 -0600
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Welcome back, Creig.

I expect you'll soon be up to your ears in TRs...  Maybe not so many
TR250s, though.  They're pretty hot and not getting any less popular
these days.  I still think about my very first car, a TR250, with fond
memories.

Don

On 1/2/13, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote:
> Hello Triumph list members,
> I have been away from this list for several years.  I've been hanging out
> on
> the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly.  But I
> have
> come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to
> restore.  He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can
> find
> within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO.  He has found several cars, but
> hasn't
> found the one he wants yet.  So I figured I could get him on this list and
> perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested
> in.  I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4.  Then maybe the TR6 or
> TR3.  He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago.  Now he has time & money,
> and
> the desire to do another car.
> This is my first posting since signing up this morning.  If this is
> working,
> I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone
> directly.
> Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817
> St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
> www.sltoa.org
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame
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I have disassembled my TR3 windshile frame which included removing the Tenax
fastners.  I fou8nd that in addition to the two that were missing some more
were epoxied in.  I know there was a thread just the other week about this and
the concensus was to use the through-the-frame fasteners and this is a viable
solution but since I am about to take the parts to be chrome plated I have the
opportunity to fix this in a way that I can avoid that since these may run
afoul of the glass.

Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping.  I think the frame is
made of brass.  If so then perhaps it is possible to build up a bead of solder
and tap that.  Remember that these will go to the plater so any subtle
cosmetic damage can be repaired.

Thanks in advance.





Dave Massey

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 13:50:26 2013
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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 20:46:10 +0000
Thread-Topic: Flat spot results
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Thanks to all on the advice, it appears (given several adjustments) that
Randall hit the proverbial nail on the head yet again. The oil in the dashpot
was well below the 1/2 inch above the central spindle. I am using the
proprietary dashpot oil, so presuming the grade is correct.
Regards
John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 18:45:31 -0800
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> I went digging in my boxes.  Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. 
> Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together.  

Spring goes in the hole, plunger goes on top of it.  Smear the plunger with
heavy grease, to hopefully hold it in place while you install the lever.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'robert rudolphi'" <robertrudolphi@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:17:21 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug
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> What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on 
> square bolt heads with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little 
> set of 4 8-point sockets I got at either Harbor Fright or 
> Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the 
> differential and the size that fits the brake adjuster

You can also buy the individual sockets at Sears.  I prefer a 1/2" drive for
the diff plug, as they are sometimes extremely tight; and a 1/4" drive for
the brake adjuster.

I've also been known to replace the plugs with hardened hex socket plugs
(from MMC), which seem less apt to strip and at least in some circumstances
easier to access
http://goo.gl/yg4ga

MMC also has them in magnetic, which I like to use for drain plugs
http://goo.gl/qS9pX

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:35:47 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
References: <SNT122-W2215FCC84313DFD9FE768BEC220@phx.gbl>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list
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Craig,

Welcome back!

The TR4s are getting hard to come by but there were a few on Ebay awhile 
back. I believe there is one in restore able shape on ebay right now in 
the southern tier of NY. Frequent Triumph ebay seller.

If your friend cant find something nearby, expand the search. He can 
always do what I did when I got my 4. Fly to the location, rent a 
truck/trailer and drive it home. A lot more fun if you can talk a buddy 
to help out! And I did it in the middle of winter!

Bob

On 01/02/2013 02:13 PM, Creig Houghtaling wrote:
> Hello Triumph list members,
> I have been away from this list for several years.  I've been hanging out on
> the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly.  But I have
> come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to
> restore.  He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can find
> within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO.  He has found several cars, but hasn't
> found the one he wants yet.  So I figured I could get him on this list and
> perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested
> in.  I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4.  Then maybe the TR6 or
> TR3.  He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago.  Now he has time & money, and
> the desire to do another car.
> This is my first posting since signing up this morning.  If this is working,
> I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone
> directly.
> Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817
> St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
> www.sltoa.org
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 21:53:23 +0000 (UTC)
From: tfansher@comcast.net
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Happy New Yeart
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Carl, I don't think that "Yeart" is quite up there with "fluif", but it's ok.

Happy New Yeart to you, too.

Tom ;^)



----- Original Message -----


From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 10:34:48 PM
Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart

We are heading to bed as we have a 400 mile trip tomorrow to get back home. B 
B 
I would like to wish all of you a very happy and triumphant new year. B  I
know I am looking forward to 2013 and getting the '3 back on the road. B 
B 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:01:07 -0600
To: "tfansher@comcast.net" <tfansher@comcast.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Happy New Yeart
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe someone got a new yurt for Christmas ?

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jan 2, 2013, at 3:53 PM, tfansher@comcast.net wrote:

Carl, I don't think that "Yeart" is quite up there with "fluif", but it's ok.

Happy New Yeart to you, too.

Tom ;^)



----- Original Message -----


From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 10:34:48 PM
Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart

We are heading to bed as we have a 400 mile trip tomorrow to get back home. B
B
I would like to wish all of you a very happy and triumphant new year. B  I
know I am looking forward to 2013 and getting the '3 back on the road. B
B
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 15:56:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:38:49 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
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Bill,

That would be my first guess. Best way to do this is to just back off 
the adjustments, disconnect the linkage and re-tighten. Take the air 
filters off so you can insure the butterflies are parked. Recheck after 
tightening the linkage.

Another reason, could be a vacuum leak.

Bob

On 01/02/2013 01:20 PM, WBEECH wrote:
> I'm wondering if the butterfly alignment could be a little out of line.
> Thinking of pulling them off and loosen & re-tightening them.
>
> Bill
>
> Sent from mobile Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 15:57:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:36:34 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame
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> Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping. 

As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday about this.  What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax stud.  (10-32 I think, but please double check.)  He claims the hex part of the stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud is installed.

I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could probably stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it.

Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head.  It is so nearly invisible that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the frame" fasteners originally.  Since they were original equipment on some cars, it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that.  But you would know better than I <g>

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 15:58:56 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 18:41:34 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3oioIh56V1m8hqRMm0zA2yBEezQwAAqbWw
Subject: Re: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3
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> Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle 
> speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday

I assume you have already backed off the idle stop screws, and stuck a
feeler gauge in the gap to be sure the stop lever isn't hitting the stop.  I
once found a burr in there that may or may not have been causing trouble.

My next step would be to loosen the pinch bolt for the lever to the linkage
on the front shaft.  If the idle drops, you know the linkage is binding
somewhere.  Press down on the idle screws (which are still backed off so
they don't touch) just to be sure.  Might also be worth opening the throttle
quickly (just grab the fast idle lever) and letting it slam shut.

Block off the PCV again, and spray some starting fluid or WD40 around the
blockage and where the fitting joins the manifold.  As before, any change in
rpm (either up or down) indicates that you've found a leak.

Next step, loosen the linkage between the carbs, then listen at the intakes
to see which carb is passing more air.  Pull that carb off and start looking
for how air is getting past the throttle plate.  I don't mean to criticize,
but I'm guessing you'll find that either the plate isn't centered as well as
you thought; or got turned back to front somehow.

When my shafts were worn so badly that the engine wouldn't idle; I could get
the idle rpm down by blipping the throttle.  The wear in the shaft (and carb
bodies) was letting the front plate drag against the bore and bind if I
closed it by gradually letting off the throttle.  If that went on long
enough, I suppose it is possible that the bore would be worn into an oval
shape that the round throttle plate would no longer fit properly.

One last thought; on my last go-round I discovered that the idle stop lever
was installed too far away from the throttle plate, so there was a gap.
That allowed the shaft to move forward slightly when the throttle was open,
and then the plate would drag against the side of the bore as it closed.  It
eventually wore a step into the bore big enough to hang up on (even though
it was hard to see the step with the naked eye).  Inserting a shim next to
the lever, recentering the plate with the lever pushed up against the body,
and setting the return spring with the clip as close to the carb body as I
could get it (so it supplied some end force on the shaft) made a big
improvement.

> Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today.

Did you set the timing per his specifications?  From comments others have
made, I believe he uses a curve with less advance, so the initial timing
should be somewhere around 12 BTDC instead of the factory 4 BTDC.  Of
course, that will make it even harder to get the idle rpm down.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] BBC Drama tries to hoodwink - and fails
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but
was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers
really do screw things badly.
Programme was a two part drama focussing on
Allied and Russian Intelligence services in WW2 early years for part of the
story line and the rest in the early 70's - with some scenes shot in "UK" and
others in "USA."
Okay, the scenery for a small Texas township just across the
border from Mexico adequately conveyed the location but as the "story time" at
that point was 1941, seeing a black and red Triumph Roadster in RHD and a 1946
Austin 14 camouflaged to look like something out of Detroit was hardly
convincing. Plenty of time for a good look on several occasions, so no
mistaken identities.
Programme was called "Restless" for those who want a low
budget production with the wrong cars at the wrong times - but a good thriller
plot.

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame
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 That's a clever solution.  According to the Moss catalog these are 2BA thread
but that's not a problem since I have a set of British taps.  Now.

Thanks.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Sent: Wed, Jan 2, 2013 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame


> Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping.

As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday
about this.  What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you
drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax
stud.  (10-32 I think, but please double check.)  He claims the hex part of
the
stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud
is installed.

I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could
probably
stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it.

Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head.  It is so nearly invisible
that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the
frame" fasteners originally.  Since they were original equipment on some cars,
it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that.
But
you would know better than I <g>

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Pat, this popped up on TR user group today.


On Jan 2, 2013, at 4:56 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500
> From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale
> Message-ID:
> 	<CADm3DLGfHpFJvRcw8=ZQ_Wwj52YirDtrwo7NKga6HQjfFOcVBA@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping
> to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested.
> 
> I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata
> seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale.
> 
> Contact me off list if interested.  Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky.
> 
> Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 09:05:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:02:03 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but
> was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers
> really do screw things badly.
That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an 
American TV series in the 1990's called JAG.  In one episode one of the 
main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in 
Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms 
convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks.  That totally distracted me from 
the story line.  I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in 
service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie 
company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks.  That's the one 
episode that really stands out in my memory.  Just because of the 
Russian military Land Rovers.

So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie 
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San 
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along 
the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 09:49:37 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:34:03 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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my family is amused because I'll see an ad with a scantily dressed model and 
I'll be staring at the car in the background trying to figure out what it is 
. . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along
the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 10:02:19 2013
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 11:58:55 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for all the replies, seats and tracks have been sold to the first
responder.

Thanks,

Brad


On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net> wrote:

> Pat, this popped up on TR user group today.
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2013, at 4:56 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500
> > From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> > To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale
> > Message-ID:
> >       <CADm3DLGfHpFJvRcw8=
> ZQ_Wwj52YirDtrwo7NKga6HQjfFOcVBA@mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered
> swapping
> > to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested.
> >
> > I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified
> Miata
> > seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale.
> >
> > Contact me off list if interested.  Seats are located in Richmond
> Kentucky.
> >
> > Brad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 10:07:59 2013
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	<76731E459EB54F86A535CF4C35DD0320@BobDell>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:05:00 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

I had the seats installed in a 63 TR4.  There was no issue with the soft
top frame and the seat to steering wheel clearance were not an issue.  Not
having seen any other Miata seats or how they fit I can't say whether the
fit was to tight or the same.

The 2000 Miata seat tracks are definitely different than the earlier years
and required more modifications.  The biggest issue was the width.  The
2000 and I assume later tracks had an additional bracket on the side that I
had to cut off using a cut-off wheel in a hand grinder.  Not difficult at
all.  Once those were off the mods to the tracks as detailed on your
website were pretty much spot on.

Brad



On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 8:16 PM, Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> Brad......... I thought that once you got to the 2000 Miata seats, they
> were too wide for TR6 installation without making some major mods to the
> soft top frame where it mounts to the B pillar. If you got them to fit with
> no mods, let me know so I can update my web site on the Miata seat
> conversion.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.**org/ <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/>
>
> 1975 TR6 modified with:
> -Throttle Body Injection
> -Toyota 5 Speed
> -Nissan Differential
> -AAW Wire Harness
> -CVJs... and more
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 2:39 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale
>
> Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping
> to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested.
>
> I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata
> seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale.
>
> Contact me off list if interested.  Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky.
>
> Brad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.**danielsonfamily.org<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 10:17:33 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:09:59 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3p0f+kE3yylzd8S2G+6rgDLWGfRwAAvtSg
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
appears in the shots.  They obviously used the same vehicles in numerous
parts of that continuous scene.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 9:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

my family is amused because I'll see an ad with a scantily dressed model and

I'll be staring at the car in the background trying to figure out what it is

. . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along
the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 11:17:23 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

    I recently watched "Dirty Harry" and was enjoying the cars in the
background. There is a red TR3 with top up about halfway through the movie.
    Bill in Tehachapi


Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:02:03 -0700
From: "TeriAnn
J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]
Cars in movies & TV
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>
Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but
>
was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers
> really do screw things badly.
That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode
for me. There was an 
American TV series in the 1990's called JAG.  In one
episode one of the 
main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first
time in 
Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army
arms 
convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks.  That totally distracted me from
the story line.  I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in 
service.
101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie 
company needs
Eastern European military cargo trucks.  That's the one 
episode that really
stands out in my memory.  Just because of the 
Russian military Land Rovers.
So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along 
the
streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 12:30:18 2013
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Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 14:27:20 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac3p6FkV86ryQLi2Qny2qnE2TAWv8g==
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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Joe Curry wrote:

>When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
appears in the shots.  They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous
parts of that continuous scene.

 

They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the
film when they edited it together.  Both cars pass that slow moving VW about
4 times on the same hill.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 15:16:40 -0500
References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jan 3, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:

> Joe Curry wrote:
>
>> When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
> appears in the shots.  They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous
> parts of that continuous scene.
>
>
>
> They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the
> film when they edited it together.  Both cars pass that slow moving VW
about
> 4 times on the same hill.
>
>
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians
in
> Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58@verizon.net

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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:33:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

nah
im blessed with the same obsession.
ever count the hubcaps that come off
the dodge during the chase?
Frank

From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
<tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 3,
2013 8:02 AM
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John
Macartney wrote:
> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had
a great plot but
> was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not
often) researchers
> really do screw things badly.
That sort of thing spoils a
movie or episode for me. There was an 
American TV series in the 1990's called
JAG.  In one episode one of the 
main characters "Harm" met his half brother
for the first time in 
Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a
Russian army arms 
convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks.  That totally
distracted me from 
the story line.  I Never knew the Russian Army had Land
Rovers in 
service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American
movie 
company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks.  That's the one
episode that really stands out in my memory.  Just because of the 
Russian
military Land Rovers.

So am I the only one when watching the classic chase
scene in the movie 
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the
streets of San 
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars
parked along 
the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356
Porches.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Donate:
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Dennis Culligan'" <dctr6@optonline.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 15:45:19 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3p6FkV86ryQLi2Qny2qnE2TAWv8gAGxCag
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago
entitled "The Adventures of Tintin".  It was very entertaining and had
excellent graphics for an animated film.  Toward the very end of the picture
was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3.  Some of
you side screen guys can probably say for sure.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

Joe Curry wrote:

>When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
appears in the shots.  They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous
parts of that continuous scene.

 

They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the
film when they edited it together.  Both cars pass that slow moving VW about
4 times on the same hill.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Joe Curry'" <spitlist@cox.net>, "'Dennis Culligan'"
	<dctr6@optonline.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net>
	<6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 17:24:35 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3p6FkV86ryQLi2Qny2qnE2TAWv8gAGxCagAAF3EiA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

By the by, this has been posted before, there is a web site with all the
interesting cars that show up in the movies.  Take a look at your favorite
here: http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Triumph.html

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:45 PM
To: 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago
entitled "The Adventures of Tintin".  It was very entertaining and had
excellent graphics for an animated film.  Toward the very end of the picture
was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3.  Some of
you side screen guys can probably say for sure.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

Joe Curry wrote:

>When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
appears in the shots.  They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous
parts of that continuous scene.

 

They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the
film when they edited it together.  Both cars pass that slow moving VW about
4 times on the same hill.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 16:33:35 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Wbeech'" <wbeech@flash.net>, "'Dennis Culligan'"
	<dctr6@optonline.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net>
	<6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista>
	<F3518EEFB27A48748F77012B800A5F25@bboffice>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:30:55 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3p6FkV86ryQLi2Qny2qnE2TAWv8gAGxCagAAF3EiAAAEEh0A==
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for that reference.  Using it, I found the car I mentioned earlier:
http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_483886-Triumph-TR2-1955.html

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech [mailto:wbeech@flash.net] 
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:25 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

By the by, this has been posted before, there is a web site with all the
interesting cars that show up in the movies.  Take a look at your favorite
here: http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Triumph.html

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:45 PM
To: 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago
entitled "The Adventures of Tintin".  It was very entertaining and had
excellent graphics for an animated film.  Toward the very end of the picture
was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3.  Some of
you side screen guys can probably say for sure.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

Joe Curry wrote:

>When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug
appears in the shots.  They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous
parts of that continuous scene.

 

They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the
film when they edited it together.  Both cars pass that slow moving VW about
4 times on the same hill.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 17:38:34 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 19:35:56 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3qEzgH8jnvhaLfTLGSiz26b1ZwrA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Part Request
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking for a working original Triumph am radio (pos or neg polarity switch
preferable) with the chrome look push buttons and handles.  It is for an
early 62 TR4.  Please email me off list. Many thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6

 

Trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 21:43:31 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 22:40:25 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
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"So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along
the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches.

TeriAnn"

No, love to try to spot European cars in street scenes from American movies 
of the 50s - 70s, love to watch European movies of the same era and spot the 
rare and unusual cars.

I do notice mistakes sometimes in modern movies but it is more of a sport or 
diversion than anything else.  Mistakes don't ruin the flick for me, one 
thing that is prevalent, movies made today about about past eras, the cars 
are of course generally from the approximate right period, but they are all 
too nice, no rustbuckets or oil burners, of course they borrow cars from 
enthusiasts and such, mostly fully restored, I am sure it would be pretty 
hard to get a bunch of time warp original cars warts and all to fill a 
street scene.

Greg Lemon

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 09:22:04 2013
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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 08:18:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Part Request
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

does it have to play only oldie's?
 

From: James Henningsen
<trguy75@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 3,
2013 4:35 PM
Subject: [TR] Part Request

Looking for a working original
Triumph am radio (pos or neg polarity switch
preferable) with the chrome look
push buttons and handles.  It is for an
early 62 TR4.  Please email me off
list. Many thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6
Trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 15:49:08 2013
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Subject: [TR] TR-TR3-A part wanted
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List,I am looking for my Tr3-a the bracket that goes on the bottom of the
radiator that gets bolted to the front chassis frame.It is the 'L' shape
bracket that measures maybe 18 inches long.If anyone has one that they can
part with, then please contact me. Thanks, Larry Schwartz

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan  4 17:41:57 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 19:38:56 -0500
	FILETIME=[0C258570:01CDEADD]
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
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In case you are not on their email list, TRF has announced the dates for this
years summer party. Aug. 1st, 2nd, 3rd.

See you there.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 20:14:30 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Nope, you are not the only one, TerriAnn.  If you look carefully at that 
scene you will see that the same selection of cars are seen on parked on 
different streets during the chase.  They must have moved them around 
between takes.

I just saw "The Bank Job" which has an excellent selection of 60s vintage 
British cars.  And it was a pretty good movie.

Mike

--------------------------------------------------
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV

> On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot 
>> but
>> was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) 
>> researchers
>> really do screw things badly.
> That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an
> American TV series in the 1990's called JAG.  In one episode one of the
> main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in
> Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms
> convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks.  That totally distracted me from
> the story line.  I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in
> service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie
> company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks.  That's the one
> episode that really stands out in my memory.  Just because of the
> Russian military Land Rovers.
>
> So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
> Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
> Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along
> the streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 03:13:21 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TRF Summer Party
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Same time as the Lotus Owners Gathering in Corning NY.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "marty sukey" <trmarty@hotmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 4, 2013 6:38:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
> In case you are not on their email list, TRF has announced the dates
> for this
> years summer party. Aug. 1st, 2nd, 3rd.
> 
> See you there.
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <l1j1s@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 22:45:23 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3qzV4C6YUO0Y7jS4C9vd1qKx+3uAAQfX2w
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-TR3-A part wanted
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> List,I am looking for my Tr3-a the bracket that goes on the 
> bottom of the radiator that gets bolted to the front chassis 
> frame.

Larry,

Are you talking about the guard for the lower tank, P/N 109487 ?  

I don't have one to offer, just not quite clear on what you are looking for.
Maybe others aren't clear either.

I don't think Ted reads the big list, so I'd try contacting him at
tedtsimx@bright.net  His web site says he has a TR3 that he is parting out.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 11:12:44 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Michael Marr <mmarr@notwires.com>, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman"
	<tjwakeman@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I worked at BMIHT some years ago, a film company rented some cars from
the reserve collection for a TV production. Seems the cars were to be used
driving along a distant street at right angles to the shoot.
After the
vehicles came home and were being cleaned up, we noticed they'd been repainted
in an easy soluble water colour. Thing was, each car was painted in two
different colours - one each side. As far as the cameras were concerned, this
"doubled up" the cars going up and down the distant street.
 
Jonmac
 
________________________________

From: Michael Marr <mmarr@notwires.com>
To:
TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com>; triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Saturday, 5 January 2013, 2:14
Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV


>Nope,
you are not the only one, TerriAnn.  If you look carefully at that scene you
will see that the same selection of cars are seen on parked on different
streets during the chase.  They must have moved them around between takes.
>
>I just saw "The Bank Job" which has an excellent selection of 60s vintage
British cars.  And it was a pretty good movie.
>
>Mike
>
>--------------------------------------------------
>From: "TeriAnn J.
Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
>Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM
>To:
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV
>
>> On 1/2/13
4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote:
>>> Watched an excellent TV drama programme
last night that had a great plot but
>>> was badly let down by the cars used.
Sometimes (though not often) researchers
>>> really do screw things badly.
>>
That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an
>> American
TV series in the 1990's called JAG.  In one episode one of the
>> main
characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in
>> Chechnya
during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms
>> convoy
driving Land Rover 101 trucks.  That totally distracted me from
>> the story
line.  I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in
>> service. 101's seem
to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie
>> company needs Eastern
European military cargo trucks.  That's the one
>> episode that really stands
out in my memory.  Just because of the
>> Russian military Land Rovers.
>> 
>>
So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie
>>
Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San
>>
Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along
>> the
streets?  MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches.
>> 
>>
TeriAnn
>> 
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate:
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr@notwires.com
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 12:11:50 -0500
From: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Badge Bar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The new project begins. I just finished a serious upgrade to my Powder Blue
TR4, by installing the worsted wool carpet kit that has been in the box
since last spring. The job came out pretty well considering the special
little challenges with grommets and snap rings. But now onto a more light
hearted project: The badge bar. On eBay I won a TSOA badge and its
successor, the VTR badge. Starting at Lowes, I bought a 24" chromium towel
rod kit, and now just started playing with the hack saw. No pressure!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 09:15:49 -0800
From: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.

I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
into the workshop for a proper restoration.

What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?

Thanks in advance!

-Malcolm
'62 TR4 (CT10339L)

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Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 11:06:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

provided they are not bare metal, just leave them alone.
if bare metal have a
body shop shoot a coat of epoxy primer on them.
don't wrap them in poly bags.
the moisture in the air will condense and evaporate many times and lead to
rust problems. but even then it will not be severe rot.
 Frank
________________________________
From: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2013 9:15 AM
Subject: [TR]
Storing sheet metal (fenders)

Hi List,

I've been lurking for a while now -
some of you may remember me from the
late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I
still have my TR4.

I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear
fenders.  However,
they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or
the attic of our
house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to
get the TR4
into the workshop for a proper restoration.

What do people
recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
grease, waxed paper,
really big ziploc bags?

Thanks in advance!

-Malcolm
'62 TR4 (CT10339L)

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 12:22:32 2013
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Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2013 14:22:57 -0500
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <CAGjWObVqix981UyyMLCw-s1Pgsi6tuG-9DWm_JeqUiZhM9_Jow@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had a set of new fenders for my TR6 for more than 10 years now. 
I've had them outside for a year, inside for most of that time. Cover 
them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should have no problems 
unless they're bare metal.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
> late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
> they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
> house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
> into the workshop for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
> grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 13:23:09 2013
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	<50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 12:13:22 -0800 (PST)
From: John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had that problem several years ago. I went to a body shop supply store and
cought a spray can of primer.
They said it would be OK for the type of paint I
intended to use. You might see if they can provide you 
with some that will
work for you,

John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59
TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)
________________________________
 From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2013 2:22 PM
Subject:
Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
  
I've had a set of new fenders for my
TR6 for more than 10 years now. 
I've had them outside for a year, inside for
most of that time. Cover 
them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should
have no problems 
unless they're bare metal.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys
for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
>
late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have
the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
> they would have to
be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
> house, for a few
months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
> into the workshop
for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet
metal for storage?  Oil,
> grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
>
Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> **
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan  5 14:13:25 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'George Richardson'" <gpr@key-men.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGjWObVqix981UyyMLCw-s1Pgsi6tuG-9DWm_JeqUiZhM9_Jow@mail.gmail.com>
	<50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 14:10:51 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac3reaJKG9gxLl5BTg24nRoLuk8u+wAD2DhQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

And if they are bare metal, priming with regular primer won't do much good.
Use a good urethane primer which resists moisture.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 12:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)

I've had a set of new fenders for my TR6 for more than 10 years now. 
I've had them outside for a year, inside for most of that time. Cover 
them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should have no problems 
unless they're bare metal.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
> late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
> they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
> house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
> into the workshop for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
> grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: "'Malcolm'" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGjWObVqix981UyyMLCw-s1Pgsi6tuG-9DWm_JeqUiZhM9_Jow@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 17:18:24 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3raGBlq9LM1y6/S5+X2uCuDF9dfAAMb2gg
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch Primer",
this will protect it until you are ready.  Then you can sand it, prime it,
paint it when you are ready.  I like the Nason brand but there are others.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)

Hi List,

I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.

I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
into the workshop for a proper restoration.

What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?

Thanks in advance!

-Malcolm
'62 TR4 (CT10339L)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 04:00:26 2013
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	<790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:56:15 +0000
From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then
I sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind
they use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust.
They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I
finally get the car together, no detectable rust.
I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer.
Zinc primer works for me.
Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch Primer",
> this will protect it until you are ready.  Then you can sand it, prime it,
> paint it when you are ready.  I like the Nason brand but there are others.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
>
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the
> late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  However,
> they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our
> house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4
> into the workshop for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  Oil,
> grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 05:17:20 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'ADRIAN DIX-DYER'" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>, "'Wbeech'"
	<wbeech@flash.net>
References: <CAGjWObVqix981UyyMLCw-s1Pgsi6tuG-9DWm_JeqUiZhM9_Jow@mail.gmail.com>
	<790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice>
	<CAJbHsd9bGErufLnQW=1DozrYg3BeHM5nr5d14uK5Rbuwh--xbw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 07:12:00 -0500
Thread-Index: AQFSo2QqWqSED/0+JavmvDIK9yUgyAGqoWK1Ap+jSmCZEHQaUA==
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Eastwood sells a product called "After Blast" which can be wiped on with a
cloth.  Lasts indefinitely.  Quick scuff with a DA and you are ready to
start bodywork and/or prime.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM
To: Wbeech
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)

I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I
sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they
use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust.
They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I
finally get the car together, no detectable rust.
I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer.
Zinc primer works for me.
Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch 
> Primer", this will protect it until you are ready.  Then you can sand 
> it, prime it, paint it when you are ready.  I like the Nason brand but
there are others.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
slow"
> M.Andretti
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
>
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from 
> the late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  
> However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the 
> attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how 
> to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  
> Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 05:18:00 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'ADRIAN DIX-DYER'" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>, "'Wbeech'"
	<wbeech@flash.net>
References: <CAGjWObVqix981UyyMLCw-s1Pgsi6tuG-9DWm_JeqUiZhM9_Jow@mail.gmail.com>
	<790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice>
	<CAJbHsd9bGErufLnQW=1DozrYg3BeHM5nr5d14uK5Rbuwh--xbw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 07:13:06 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ten years ago?  We'll put you down as a type B.........................  :-)

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM
To: Wbeech
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)

I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I
sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they
use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust.
They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I
finally get the car together, no detectable rust.
I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer.
Zinc primer works for me.
Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch 
> Primer", this will protect it until you are ready.  Then you can sand 
> it, prime it, paint it when you are ready.  I like the Nason brand but
there are others.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
slow"
> M.Andretti
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
>
> Hi List,
>
> I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from 
> the late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
>
> I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.  
> However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the 
> attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how 
> to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration.
>
> What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?  
> Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> -Malcolm
> '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 08:27:55 2013
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:24:22 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Hah!  That's nothing! In 1990 I bought a used engine to run in the TR6 whilst
I rebuilt its original engine.  That used engine is still in there.

Some day I'll get a round tuit.

Iechyd da !

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>


Ten years ago?  We'll put you down as a type B.........................  :-)

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I
sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they
use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust.
They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I
finally get the car together, no detectable rust.
I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer.
Zinc primer works for me.
Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 09:22:38 2013
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	(envelope-from <keithstewart@execulink.com>) id 1Trswi-0007cw-4n; Sun,
	06 Jan 2013 11:19:36 -0500
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 11:19:35 -0500
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally
from California). It does not have the support tubes.

When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased the
car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through their
hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from
California.

When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry sites,
the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support tubes
because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in the
area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is clear,
the majority do not have the support tubes but many do.

Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were included
or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were intended
as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the over
rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars?
Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 11:39:14 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
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Keith,

My matching numbers 63 came with the tubes when I picked it up over 8 
years ago. Maybe some owners removed them? Not sure why. Maybe accident 
damage?

You are correct about the welded nut. Why have the nut if it wasn't 
going to be used?
I am not sure about the 4A, since their over-riders are different. Maybe 
that is what the dealer was referring to?

I looked in the parts manual and the part numbers are:

611971 and 611970 Listed as Tube, front overider to front wheel arch.

Bob

  On 01/06/2013 11:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote:
> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally
> from California). It does not have the support tubes.
>
> When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased the
> car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through their
> hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from
> California.
>
> When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry sites,
> the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support tubes
> because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in the
> area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is clear,
> the majority do not have the support tubes but many do.
>
> Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were included
> or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were intended
> as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the over
> rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars?
> Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input
>
>
> Keith R. Stewart
> London, Ontario
> E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 09:45:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Keith --

My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports.  That car was
despatched to California then on to Hawaii.

Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in
some B&W photos.

I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting
these.

Geo

On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>wrote:

> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4
> (originally
> from California). It does not have the support tubes.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 10:08:55 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 12:02:34 -0500
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To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

True, that anything other than minor front end damage would likely break or
crumple the support tube. I have them on CT6716LO, I have seen them in the
SPC, TRF and Moss both list them, and I have seen them in other pictures. So,
I do not have much doubt they exist. My main questions are to see if there are
original owners whose cars did not come with them or if there was a point at
which they were discontinued - or even if was an item that was sometimes left
off a new vehicle at the factory. Thanks for your feedback.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com





On 2013-01-06, at 11:39 AM, Bob Labuz wrote:

> Keith,
>
> My matching numbers 63 came with the tubes when I picked it up over 8 years
ago. Maybe some owners removed them? Not sure why. Maybe accident damage?
>
> You are correct about the welded nut. Why have the nut if it wasn't going to
be used?
> I am not sure about the 4A, since their over-riders are different. Maybe
that is what the dealer was referring to?
>
> I looked in the parts manual and the part numbers are:
>
> 611971 and 611970 Listed as Tube, front overider to front wheel arch.
>
> Bob
>
> On 01/06/2013 11:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote:
>> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
>> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4
(originally
>> from California). It does not have the support tubes.
>>
>> When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased
the
>> car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through
their
>> hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from
>> California.
>>
>> When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry
sites,
>> the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support
tubes
>> because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in
the
>> area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is
clear,
>> the majority do not have the support tubes but many do.
>>
>> Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were
included
>> or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were
intended
>> as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the
over
>> rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars?
>> Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input
>>
>>
>> Keith R. Stewart
>> London, Ontario
>> E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 12:10:30 -0500
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com>
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To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I understand
correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's?
Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them painted -
but, it has been 46 1/2 years.
:-)
Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were
removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a part
that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the
supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the valance?
One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com





On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Keith --
>
> My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports.  That car was
despatched to California then on to Hawaii.
>
> Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in
some B&W photos.
>
> I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting
these.
>
> Geo
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:
> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4
(originally
> from California). It does not have the support tubes.

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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:19:30 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 10:10 AM, Keith Stewart
<keithstewart@execulink.com>wrote:

> ... what about the supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to
> the top of the valance? One might expect those to be black as well and mine
> are also body colour...
>


Those are body color on mine (including the bolt heads).  The car has its
original paint.  Looks like those supports were bolted in place prior to
the body being painted, then the front bolt was undone to fit the tab on
the grille and rebolted.

Geo

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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:25:54 +0000
Thread-Topic: Hardtop drip channels
Thread-Index: AQHN7DORwzP3IfS1Vk+9bHzJUMcvAg==
Accept-Language: en-US
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acceptlanguage: en-US
  VDF=10.130.61)
Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels
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Does anybody know a source of the two drip channels for the TR2/3 hardtop,
either re manufacture or used. I had a very bad day yesterday when I decided
the best way to remove the paint the DPO had applied to them was using an
alkaline stripper solution as I was afraid of scratching the surface using
mechanical methods. This etched DEEP into the aluminum rendering them useless.
DAMM!
Regards
John


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

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Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 13:35:54 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com>
	<CANzE1bFYCs3gSZFmj7Xv3Km6_r0-mVfmbZfZ6uyNRdYEPY_56g@mail.gmail.com>
	<EF3F3BE8-C8E5-4E3A-8430-834BEB9CC9A6@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Keith,

The ones that came with my 63 were painted silver. So I cleaned them up 
and repainted them silver. My 63 is SPA white.

Bob

On 01/06/2013 12:10 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:
> So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I understand
> correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's?
> Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them painted -
> but, it has been 46 1/2 years.
> :-)
> Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were
> removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a part
> that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the
> supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the valance?
> One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour.
>
> Keith R. Stewart
> 75 Camden Road
> London, Ontario
> N5X 2K2
> Home: (519) 660-1916
> E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>
>> Keith --
>>
>> My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports.  That car was
> despatched to California then on to Hawaii.
>> Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in
> some B&W photos.
>> I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting
> these.
>> Geo
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
> wrote:
>> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over
>> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4
> (originally
>> from California). It does not have the support tubes.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 12:46:29 2013
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 11:43:07 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John,
     If you find a source, be sure to post it to the list.
     I
have an original hardtop. My drip rails are still usable, but the corners of
the drip rails seem to have dissolved due to some sort of cathodic reaction. I
have considered trying to make a tool (mandrel) and re-manufacture them myself
out of aluminum or stainless steel. Probably won't be happening anytime soon
though.

     -Bill in Tehachapi


Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:25:54 +0000
From:
John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels
Message-ID:
   
<F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034A2CE5698E@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Does anybody know a source of
the two drip channels for the TR2/3 hardtop,
either re manufacture or used. I
had a very bad day yesterday when I decided
the best way to remove the paint
the DPO had applied to them was using an
alkaline stripper solution as I was
afraid of scratching the surface using
mechanical methods. This etched DEEP
into the aluminum rendering them useless.
DAMM!
Regards
John


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 13:23:49 2013
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Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 20:20:45 +0000
From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Type B.....mmm.
Selling my business and cancer got in the way of the restoration started
ten years ago. All systems go now.
Adrian TR4A CT64306 O

On 6 January 2013 12:13, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:

> Ten years ago?  We'll put you down as a type B.........................
>  :-)
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM
> To: Wbeech
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
>
> I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then
> I
> sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they
> use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust.
> They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I
> finally get the car together, no detectable rust.
> I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer.
> Zinc primer works for me.
> Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
> Wales UK.
>
> On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
>
> > Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch
> > Primer", this will protect it until you are ready.  Then you can sand
> > it, prime it, paint it when you are ready.  I like the Nason brand but
> there are others.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Bill Beecher
> > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> > www.triumphowners.com/1566
> > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
> slow"
> > M.Andretti
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
> > Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders)
> >
> > Hi List,
> >
> > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from
> > the late '90s.  Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4.
> >
> > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders.
> > However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the
> > attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how
> > to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration.
> >
> > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage?
> > Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > -Malcolm
> > '62 TR4 (CT10339L)
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, "Keith Stewart"
	<keithstewart@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net><89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com><CANzE1bFYCs3gSZFmj7Xv3Km6_r0-mVfmbZfZ6uyNRdYEPY_56g@mail.gmail.com><EF3F3BE8-C8E5-4E3A-8430-834BEB9CC9A6@execulink.com>
	<50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 13:22:59 -0700
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recently stripped the stay rods (wheel arch to valance) on my TR4A and 
found original body color.  In these case of these two, they were not 
painted well - I sanded several paint drips from off the bottom edge.  Its 
likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the 
bottom except for the runs.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Labuz
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 11:35 AM
To: Keith Stewart
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes

Keith,

The ones that came with my 63 were painted silver. So I cleaned them up
and repainted them silver. My 63 is SPA white.

Bob

On 01/06/2013 12:10 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:
> So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I 
> understand
> correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's?
> Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them 
> painted -
> but, it has been 46 1/2 years.
> :-)
> Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were
> removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a 
> part
> that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the
> supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the 
> valance?
> One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour.
>
> Keith R. Stewart
> 75 Camden Road
> London, Ontario
> N5X 2K2
> Home: (519) 660-1916
> E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>
>> Keith --
>>
>> My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports.  That car was
> despatched to California then on to Hawaii.
>> Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see 
>> in
> some B&W photos.
>> I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting
> these.
>> Geo
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart 
>> <keithstewart@execulink.com>
> wrote:
>> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper 
>> over
>> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4
> (originally
>> from California). It does not have the support tubes.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 14:32:10 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 15:28:50 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A tub on frame
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References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net><89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com><CANzE1bFYCs3gSZFmj7Xv3Km6_r0-mVfmbZfZ6uyNRdYEPY_56g@mail.gmail.com><EF3F3BE8-C8E5-4E3A-8430-834BEB9CC9A6@execulink.com>
	<50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net>
	<3EE8073F983B40A2AEFA0907A89A2A85@Shemp>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 22:51:17 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>, Bob Labuz
	<yellowtr@adelphia.net>, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Cliff Hansen wrote:
Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not
much paint along the bottom except for the runs.

Hey, what do you expect
for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job?
 
Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 16:35:14 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Over_Rider_Support_Tubes?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>, "Bob" <Labuz	<yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <>>, "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51


Cliff Hansen wrote:
Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not
much paint along the bottom except for the runs.

Hey, what do you expect
for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job?
 
Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 16:38:07 2013
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>
References: <20130106233502.70C5242841@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 18:34:58 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That may be correct for a TR4 but for a 4A they are body color. Owned my 66 
since 69.

-----Original Message----- 
From: spook01@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:29 PM
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes

I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the 
authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>, "Bob" <Labuz 
<yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <>>, "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51


Cliff Hansen wrote:
Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not
much paint along the bottom except for the runs.

Hey, what do you expect
for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job?

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv@roadrunner.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 17:59:49 2013
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From: Andy Graybeal <andygraybeal@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 16:56:24 -0800
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, all
I just converted my TR4 signal and stoplights to LED bulbs purchased from Moss
Motors. They work beautifully but when the turn signal stalk is in the off
position, the flasher unit continues to click. The only light that is affected
is the indicator light in the dash. I did not replace the front parking
lights. Any suggestions?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 18:08:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 1:03:53 +0000
From: <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [TR] TR4  Bonnet Alignment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had my TR4 on the road now for about 10 years, and one of the things that I've always wanted to fix is the alignment of the bonnet.  I will say that with a friends help, I was the last person to install it.  I thought we had done the best job we could at the time, but ended up with large differences between the gaps between the sides.  Also, I have gaps on each side at the front end.  It almost seems as if the wings should bend to match the contour of the bonnet.  I tried to made adjustments using the slotted holes in the hinges, but there isn't really any movement side to side.  Would it help to enlarge the slotted holes?  

I'm looking for advice on how to properly adjust the inner wings which are welded to the tub.  I already have the bonnet off the car, and am planning on removing the wings next. Should I just use the dimensional width of the bonnet, adding the appropriate amount of distance for the gaps?  What's the best way to bend the mounting edge for the wings?

Thanks
Paul
61 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 18:39:01 2013
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	Jan 2013 01:35:54 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130107010354.OHK4P.79650.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 19:35:55 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4  Bonnet Alignment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Paul, are you talking about how the last couple inches of the front end of 
the bonnet seem to kind of "curl in" in addition to the downward curve to 
follow the line of the wings?  If so I had that feature on my old TR4A and 
current TR250.  If you want to bend the wing in to follow the line that is 
beyond my skill set, as you have creases and compound curves involved.  It 
might be easier to see if you can finesse the corners of the bonnet out a 
little.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2013 7:03 PM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4  Bonnet Alignment

> I've had my TR4 on the road now for about 10 years, and one of the things 
> that I've always wanted to fix is the alignment of the bonnet.  I will say 
> that with a friends help, I was the last person to install it.  I thought 
> we had done the best job we could at the time, but ended up with large 
> differences between the gaps between the sides.  Also, I have gaps on each 
> side at the front end.  It almost seems as if the wings should bend to 
> match the contour of the bonnet.  I tried to made adjustments using the 
> slotted holes in the hinges, but there isn't really any movement side to 
> side.  Would it help to enlarge the slotted holes?
>
> I'm looking for advice on how to properly adjust the inner wings which are 
> welded to the tub.  I already have the bonnet off the car, and am planning 
> on removing the wings next. Should I just use the dimensional width of the 
> bonnet, adding the appropriate amount of distance for the gaps?  What's 
> the best way to bend the mounting edge for the wings?
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> 61 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan  6 21:07:00 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 22:03:37 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mounting tub on frame TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net



** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 05:12:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]  TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The front (and rear) over-rider support bars on my very original '64 TR4 are
black (car is Triumph Racing Green - no 25) and original. Built in Nov '64,
dispatched to Germany where I bought it. The car has never had any collision
damage. I doubt that a TR4 intentionally left the factory with out these
support 
bars. 

 
brgds, Jay
 
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 07:47:12 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 08:42:51 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets
 scrubbed)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am in the process of securing the tub (newly painted) to the restored frame
of a TR3A. In a trial fit I find that the
stack of four rubber mounting pads on the outriggers that are recommended as a
starting point for truing up the
body leave the car floor pans well above the frame. My question is this, are
the floor pans supposed to rest
directly on the rubber strips atop the fram3, or is there supposed to be a
gap. The former makes most sense to
me, but in order to get that to happen, I think I would be down to 1 pad on at
least one of the outriggers. Any

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 07:56:38 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Joe DeMuth'" <jdemuth@ties2.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <035BA80F-624B-4B34-B551-5070BC53428D@ties2.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 09:53:24 -0500
Thread-Index: AQMSuRb32xH/CRYC1EBu+oOefgfjxJW0Wlqw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets
 scrubbed)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Joe:

The tub is meant to rest on the PADS atop the outriggers, but in other areas
(in the engine compartment, for example), there is a gap between the tub and
the STRIPS.

Regarding the pads on the outriggers, the number will be determined by how
the gaps are when you install the doors and fenders - and so it involves a
certain amount of trial and error in getting it just right.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 9:43 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets
scrubbed)

I am in the process of securing the tub (newly painted) to the restored
frame of a TR3A. In a trial fit I find that the stack of four rubber
mounting pads on the outriggers that are recommended as a starting point for
truing up the body leave the car floor pans well above the frame. My
question is this, are the floor pans supposed to rest directly on the rubber
strips atop the fram3, or is there supposed to be a gap. The former makes
most sense to me, but in order to get that to happen, I think I would be
down to 1 pad on at least one of the outriggers. Any

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 20:50:45 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>, "Spitfire list"
	<spitfires@autox.team.net>, "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net><7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC><1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
	<50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 21:46:37 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a 79 MGB that did the exact same thing, needed a little tap to start, 
then always worked fine after that until the next start up, wouldn't be 
surprised if "rationalization" at BL had the same or similar parts in both 
cars at this time.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>
Sent: Monday, January 7, 2013 6:29 PM
To: "Spitfire list" <spitfires@autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach

> Thanks Everyone!
>
> The consensus is that it is normal or at least not unusual, as I
> suspected.  I haven't worried about it, because it always starts up
> rather soon. But I was curious if it was just mine.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
>
>
> On 1/7/2013 4:16 AM, John Macartney wrote:
>> This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in
>> Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of "an
>> i'erent (inherent) fault" I've encountered this condition on many
>> later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18
>> months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to
>> make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well
>> for ever, does one?
>> Jonmac*From:* Grant Buss <buss3@rogers.com>
>> **
>> Hello
>> I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long
>> as I have had it (close to 20 years).
>> Now idea why.
>> Grant Buss
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 20:59:04 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 19:55:31 -0800
References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net>
	<7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: Spitfire list <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure if the tach is similar to the TR7/TR8, but if so, here is an explanation of the problem, and how to resolve it:

http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/other/tach/tach.htm

However, I've cleaned mine a few times, and it is better for a week or so, then starts sticking again.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan  7 21:13:33 2013
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 18:53:09 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It may be that we are discussing different stay rods. For the TR4 I think 
the conversation is around the support rods that attach to the back of the 
over riders. My post referred to the stays that go from the top of the grill 
support to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly inside the engine 
compartment.  I was answering that question only. Does a TR4 also have these 
same stay rods?

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:34 PM
To: spook01@comcast.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes

That may be correct for a TR4 but for a 4A they are body color. Owned my 66
since 69.

-----Original Message----- 
From: spook01@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:29 PM
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes

I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the
authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>, "Bob" <Labuz
<yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <>>, "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51


Cliff Hansen wrote:
Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not
much paint along the bottom except for the runs.

Hey, what do you expect
for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job?

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 09:36:22 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 11:31:33 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.2987.1357564511.1937.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A in Taylor Swift's Ex Vidwo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The music may not be to your liking, but the red TR4A that is the start of the
"Kiss You" video is pretty cool!

http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/showbiz/music/4732149/one-direction-topl
ess-in-video-for-kiss-you.html

Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <D3709C41D5414DDBB007B1486EFEC3C2@UserTHINK>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 11:31:15 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jan 7, 2013 at 4:53 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>wrote:

> ...My post referred to the stays that go from the top of the grill support
> to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly inside the engine compartment.  I
> was answering that question only. Does a TR4 also have these same stay rods
>


Yes, and the ones under the bonnet are body color on a TR4.  So black for
the ones to the bumper guards and body color for the ones from the inner
wing to the top of the grille (on the TR4 at least).

If you look at an original car you can get some idea of how it was
assembled vis a vis the painting of parts.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 12:48:24 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 14:45:08 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.15.1357671603.14050.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] R4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks so much for all your input. It seems the consensus from those that were
original owners, or those that were owners early enough in the life of the car
that they know what was there from the factory, is that:
* no one received a car that did not have the over rider support tubes (over
rider to inner wheel arch)
* the over rider support tubes were black (likely chassis black)
* the stay rod supports (top of inner valance to inner wheel arch) were body
colour

Thanks for your feedback. You are a great resource.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 16:11:03 2013
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 11:26:14 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
References: <D3709C41D5414DDBB007B1486EFEC3C2@UserTHINK>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jerry,

My 63 does. They are painted body color.

Bob

On 01/07/2013 06:53 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote:
> It may be that we are discussing different stay rods. For the TR4 I 
> think the conversation is around the support rods that attach to the 
> back of the over riders. My post referred to the stays that go from 
> the top of the grill support to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly 
> inside the engine compartment.  I was answering that question only. 
> Does a TR4 also have these same stay rods?
>
> JVV

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 18:56:13 2013
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 20:52:49 -0500
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
Trying to sort out the miscellaneous pieces I have to cobble together 
the seat rails and adjusters for my '2. I'm assuming that the TR2 and 3. 
3A seat rails are similar. Are the adjuster tracks "handed" - right or 
left? The parts that I have appear to fit only one way - on the right 
side of the seat pan.
That would make the adjustment lever adjacent to the trans tunnel on the 
driver's seat and the passenger's seat has the lever next to the door. 
Both my seats have fixed backs and I think this is correct for the '2.
Do I have the right adjuster tracks? Is the lever position correct?
Thanks for any help with this one & Happy New Year to all.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan  8 19:51:34 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <50ECCD71.5000007@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 20:48:12 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3uDCflDIlYbJjjRIqk2oIOjRDvIAABztMg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Angelo,
Yes they are handed.  My adjusters are both at the outboard side under the
seat on the TR3A.  Moss catalog agrees with you in that both TR2 seats are
'fixed'.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:53 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails.

Hello List:
Trying to sort out the miscellaneous pieces I have to cobble together the
seat rails and adjusters for my '2. I'm assuming that the TR2 and 3. 
3A seat rails are similar. Are the adjuster tracks "handed" - right or left?
The parts that I have appear to fit only one way - on the right side of the
seat pan.
That would make the adjustment lever adjacent to the trans tunnel on the
driver's seat and the passenger's seat has the lever next to the door. 
Both my seats have fixed backs and I think this is correct for the '2.
Do I have the right adjuster tracks? Is the lever position correct?
Thanks for any help with this one & Happy New Year to all.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 09:56:57 2013
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 08:53:32 -0800 (PST)
From: "oldpine47@frontiernet.net" <oldpine47@frontiernet.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I received a set of stone guards from Big m and they do not look like the
upper piece will fit over the fender.  Has anyone else had this problem and is
there a fix I am not aware of?
 
Fred

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 09:05:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "oldpine47@frontiernet.net" <oldpine47@frontiernet.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

i had to bend and file and hug and squeeze all 4 of mine to get a reasonable
fit
Frank

From: "oldpine47@frontiernet.net" <oldpine47@frontiernet.net>
To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, January
9, 2013 8:53 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards

I received a set of stone
guards from Big m and they do not look like the
upper piece will fit over the
fender.  Has anyone else had this problem and is
there a fix I am not aware
of?

Fred

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 10:37:37 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, <oldpine47@frontiernet.net>,
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1357750412.71641.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1357751152.7424.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 11:34:15 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3ui6r6nJJOgS2gSVKTBV3lYauTyAAA5Dhg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Same experience here, mine came from TRF.  It truly was a 'custom' fit.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 11:06 AM
To: oldpine47@frontiernet.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards

i had to bend and file and hug and squeeze all 4 of mine to get a reasonable
fit Frank

From: "oldpine47@frontiernet.net" <oldpine47@frontiernet.net>
To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January
9, 2013 8:53 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards

I received a set of stone
guards from Big m and they do not look like the upper piece will fit over
the fender.  Has anyone else had this problem and is there a fix I am not
aware of?

Fred

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 12:29:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 14:26:14 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, oldpine47@frontiernet.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote: 
> Same experience here, mine came from TRF.  It truly was a 'custom' fit.

Ditto.  My take is that they are supplied untrimmed, both to reduce costs and to allow custom fitting to your car.  The metal is very soft and easy to shape, but there is a considerable amount of shaping required.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 18:38:14 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:34:04 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Roll bar padding source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking for a high performing padding for the roll bar in my TR6 project.
It's supposed to be for my wife - but I think it will likely go to my best
buddy who's moving here from the UK this month.

Would like to be economical - but want good stiff foam. Safety first.

Any suggestions/sources?   I've seen some foam at Jeggs and Summit and I'll
go there if I don't get some better advice.

Thanks in advance,  Chris

54 TR2
63 TR4
69 TR6 (on life support - solid frame but really ugly)
73 TR6 (affectionately called "The Pig" due to all the DPO issues
encountered thus far)
1/2 73 TR6 (back half - going soon)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 19:23:59 2013
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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:20:29 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all list members,

My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing an
internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the
best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.

John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 19:44:13 2013
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "6Pack List"
	<6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 21:39:00 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
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I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for
the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the
scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so,
what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of
caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness?
I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How
do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to
pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if
caulking is required.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 19:45:31 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:41:22 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John, if you are doing a total restoration the cost of books shouldn't phase 
you too much, the Piggot originality guide is helpful, as is a Haynes Manual 
and a factory parts manual, if you don't want to buy a manual a Moss catalog 
is a decent substitute.  If you search around on Ebay and don't mind a 
little grubby you can get a Haynes pretty cheap, a Moss catalog is free 
(google moss motors if you haven't discovered them yet) the Piggot book 
comes in several versions that cover the 4A, they were pretty pricey for a 
while, but I thought they come out with a new version and had become more 
reasonable, E-bay and Amazon are good sources for these and other books.

Good Luck! Solid axle or IRS?

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:43:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "john-marie@sbcglobal.net" <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John
id suggest you forget the books and instead take class's at your local
community college.
they usually will let you bring parts in and work on them.
you will be the oldest guy in class and maybe even older than the teacher. but
that just makes for more fun.
Frank


________________________________
From:
"john-marie@sbcglobal.net" <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>
To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, January
9, 2013 6:20 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A

Hi all list members,

My first post.  I am
about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
looking for a
restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing an
internet
search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the
best one. 
Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.

John DeLuca

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 19:59:49 2013
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	Jan 2013 02:56:31 +0000
From: Dan Cronin <adcronin@mi.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:56:32 -0500
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I highly recommend "How to Restore Triumph TR4 & 4A " by Roger Williams with a
forward by Bill Piggott.  From the Enthusiast's Restoration Manuals by Veloce.
192 pages and a bit pricy, but certainly well worth the $$$  -  around $60.00
US but available used for less.  You will refer to this often during your
restoration and lots if its your first one....
Dan Cronin
adcronin@mi.rr.com



On Jan 9, 2013, at 9:20 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hi all list members,
>
> My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
> looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing
an
> internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in
the
> best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin@mi.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 20:19:12 2013
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Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:15:52 -0800
From: Eric Miller <ebuzzmiller@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/17.0 Thunderbird/17.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I did my 4A, I found that I used the Haynes manual initially, but 
ended up going to the Triumph "Repair Operation Manual" published by BL 
Cars Limited for specifics.  It covers TR4 - TR6.  It has plenty of 
assembly diagrams and all the dimension, torque, assembly, and fluif 
specs you could want.  (It's my greasiest book).

-Eric

On 1/9/2013 6:20 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Hi all list members,
>
> My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
> looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing an
> internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the
> best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 20:40:40 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Eric Miller'" <ebuzzmiller@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
	<50EE3268.7080805@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 19:36:59 -0800
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	FILETIME=[C46CE470:01CDEEE3]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

The internet and the people on it are your best manual............

I've done a 3  Morgans - there is no manual (Refer to TR and Jag Manuals
respectively).  Thank god for the now defunct "emog"

I have 3 TR/Standard manuals (TR3, TR4, TR6) they were all I ever needed for
TR's.  (A couple TR3's, Morgans and a TR6).  They are quite good, and thanks
to autox.team.net.

I have the Austin manual for the AH3000 - its all I ever needed for 2 AH3000
Restorations.  Thank god for autox.team.net

I have the Haynes manual for MGB's, it is terrible ("Reverse of
Disassembly") - but MGB's are simple enough to start with. 

I have an official Jag shop manual for my XK-150 - beyond awful,
indescribably bad, words can do no justice for how useless it is, my son's
"Harry Potter spellbooks" are more useful............(part of the "momentary
failure to proceed" literary school).  Thank god for jaglovers.com.

Get yourself the TR4 shop manual (available at moss, and one of the
greasiest books in my shop) 

You'll find that  most helpful thing out there beyond the manual is access
to the internet and 100's of enthusiasts who have "been there, done that"
and are eager to help.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 20:56:46 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:53:05 -0600
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

First, I admire your bravery and spirit.  A frame-off restoration of any
vintage car is a daunting task, and like marriage, is not to be entered into
lightly.

I completed a frame-off restoration of a 1965 TR4A from roughly 2004 - 2011.
The car is now a pleasure to drive, and it even won first place for Concours
Modified at the VTR South Central Region convention for 2012.

I did not lay a hand on the car for roughly one year; all I did was study.
I used the Roger Williams book as my primary guide, as well as priceless
advice from the folks on this list.
After a year of studying, I decided I could in fact be successful in taking on
the project.
So, I recommend you purchase the Williams book, get the electronic version of
the Bentley manual,  get the catalogs, and study the vehicle very thoroughly.
If you still decide to move forward with the project, and the commitment
(time, money and relationships) it entails, then turn a wrench.

You may think money is a precious commodity now, but my experience says that
time is far more precious.
The last thing you want is a half-finsihed project that you are begging
someone to take off your hands.
Like Jesus said, no one wants a half-finished tower they cannot complete.
Make sure you are counting the cost, and that you are committed to taking on
those costs.

While I was working on my TR4A, I managed to document a lot of my work at
http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph.
I maintained this site as a diary of sorts, to help others along the way.

I would be happy to follow your progress, and offer support and advice.
But, like I eluded to before, the folks on this mailing list were my biggest
helpers and cheerleaders.



On Jan 9, 2013, at 8:20 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hi all list members,
>
> My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
> looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing
an
> internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in
the
> best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  9 21:36:17 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
	<7148DA62-19FD-405C-B2FA-1DC38DA70FE2@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 22:32:32 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3u5hqdycEMatF5SY2eXqKguCPqKAABGGiw
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
Where are you located?  There is bound to be other TR enthusiasts nearby, a
Triumph or British club.  

Not sure I can add to any of the advice already offered, I have the books,
the Bentley CD and membership on this list, the Moss catalog is very helpful
(the Moss UK catalog is better) and Dave at TRF is an extremely patient
fountain of knowledge on all things Triumph.  They got me through my first
frame-off just six years ago, on my second now.  But there is no replacement
for a fellow owner to stop in and commiserate from time to time, or help you
with a four-hand job, misery loves company as they say.

Keep us up to date on how your doing,
Bill

Bill Beecher  
www.bcbco.org
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
 
 

----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 9:53 PM
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A

John,

First, I admire your bravery and spirit.  A frame-off restoration of any
vintage car is a daunting task, and like marriage, is not to be entered into
lightly.

I completed a frame-off restoration of a 1965 TR4A from roughly 2004 - 2011.
The car is now a pleasure to drive, and it even won first place for Concours
Modified at the VTR South Central Region convention for 2012.

I did not lay a hand on the car for roughly one year; all I did was study.
I used the Roger Williams book as my primary guide, as well as priceless
advice from the folks on this list.
After a year of studying, I decided I could in fact be successful in taking
on the project.
So, I recommend you purchase the Williams book, get the electronic version
of the Bentley manual,  get the catalogs, and study the vehicle very
thoroughly.
If you still decide to move forward with the project, and the commitment
(time, money and relationships) it entails, then turn a wrench.

You may think money is a precious commodity now, but my experience says that
time is far more precious.
The last thing you want is a half-finsihed project that you are begging
someone to take off your hands.
Like Jesus said, no one wants a half-finished tower they cannot complete.
Make sure you are counting the cost, and that you are committed to taking on
those costs.

While I was working on my TR4A, I managed to document a lot of my work at
http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph.
I maintained this site as a diary of sorts, to help others along the way.

I would be happy to follow your progress, and offer support and advice.
But, like I eluded to before, the folks on this mailing list were my biggest
helpers and cheerleaders.



On Jan 9, 2013, at 8:20 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hi all list members,
>
> My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  
> Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found 
> three doing
an
> internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest 
> in
the
> best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com




Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:06:06 -0800
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Roll bar padding source
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you want padding to soften the roll bar when you lean on it, or do you
want padding that would actually absorb a hit in an accident?  The former
is foam, the latter racing rollbar padding -  see
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=ROLLPAD

On Wed, Jan 9, 2013 at 5:34 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Looking for a high performing padding for the roll bar in my TR6 project.
> It's supposed to be for my wife - but I think it will likely go to my best
> buddy who's moving here from the UK this month.
>
> Would like to be economical - but want good stiff foam. Safety first.
>
> Any suggestions/sources?   I've seen some foam at Jeggs and Summit and I'll
> go there if I don't get some better advice.
>
> Thanks in advance,  Chris
>
> 54 TR2
> 63 TR4
> 69 TR6 (on life support - solid frame but really ugly)
> 73 TR6 (affectionately called "The Pig" due to all the DPO issues
> encountered thus far)
> 1/2 73 TR6 (back half - going soon)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 02:45:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:45:21 -0500
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm going to be doing this for my TR6 some time this year, and although 
I have no experience with it, I'm currently working on a Land Rover 
Discovery I bought cheap.

The Discovery is like a greenhouse with the amount of glass it has and 
every one of these windows uses just a rubber seal.

And around every seal it leaks and rusts. Use sealer.

Land Rover owners recommend this stuff, whic hcan be used with the 
rubber gasket in place:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_flowable-silicone-windshield-and-glass-sealer-permatex_7160107-p?searchTerm=windshield+sealer

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/9/2013 9:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote:
> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for
> the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the
> scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so,
> what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of
> caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness?
> I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How
> do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to
> pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if
> caulking is required.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Joe
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Triumph List <lgmtr6@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 05:11:17 -0500
To: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've done this job more times than I care to remember. It's an easy job but
you really need two people. Use the silicone that George recommended or there
is also a black silicone version that I usually use. Put the Gasket on the
windshield first, put a small bead of silicone in the gap on the gasket, use
slight pressure on the glass from the helper and pull the rope/twine around
the gasket while pressed to the frame and you'll be amazed how quick it goes
in. Don't let your helper press too hard or you'll be looking for another
windshield. Same procedure for a Herald, Spitfire and Stag (done them all).
Unfortunately, the new gaskets really don't last too long and get age cracks
on the corners after 3-4 years, despite being garaged so buy a good quality
gasket not the cheapest one.
Larry Miceli

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 10, 2013, at 4:45 AM, George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com> wrote:

> I'm going to be doing this for my TR6 some time this year, and although I
have no experience with it, I'm currently working on a Land Rover Discovery I
bought cheap.
>
> The Discovery is like a greenhouse with the amount of glass it has and every
one of these windows uses just a rubber seal.
>
> And around every seal it leaks and rusts. Use sealer.
>
> Land Rover owners recommend this stuff, whic hcan be used with the rubber
gasket in place:
>
>
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_flowable-s
ilicone-windshield-and-glass-sealer-permatex_7160107-p?searchTerm=windshield+
sealer
>
> George Richardson
> Key Men - Keys for Classics
> www.key-men.com
>
> On 1/9/2013 9:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote:
>> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions
for
>> the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the
>> scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so,
>> what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of
>> caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water
tightness?
>> I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How
>> do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to
>> pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if
>> caulking is required.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 05:50:36 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:46:56 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know about required but I recommend it.  I fought leaks for years 
until I finally relented and put a bead of Dum Dum there.  If I were to do it 
again I would use a gasket sealer or a weatherstrip adhesive an attach the 
seal to the bottom of the frame and then a bead of Dum Dum or maybe a bead 
of silicon between the seal and body.  Gluing the seal to the frame may take 
care of the curling.

Dave

In a message dated 1/9/2013 8:41:00 PM Central Standard Time, 
trglory@verizon.net writes: 
> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions 
> for
> the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the
> scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so,
> what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of
> caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water 
> tightness?
> I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How
> do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to
> pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if
> caulking is required.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 06:09:11 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 08:05:33 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130106
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Joseph Laurito <trglory@verizon.net>
References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net>
Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Joe,

On both my 4 and 6 I did not use any silicone or other sealant. I have 
been in 2 really big downpours in my 4 and 1 in the 6 and there are no 
leaks whatsoever on either car in the windshield.

Now, I have read the other replies that recommend using something, but 
for the life of me, I cant see how any water could get in through the 
seal, either from the body up or the windshield down.

But as you can see by the previous replies, some owners have experienced 
leaks.

Same thing with the glass seal. How could water get in through that 
tight seal unless the rubber was old and cracking?

But I guess it couldnt hurt as long as the sealant did not affect the 
life of the rubber.

Bob

On 01/09/2013 09:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote:
> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for
> the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the
> scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so,
> what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of
> caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness?
> I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How
> do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to
> pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if
> caulking is required.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 07:45:44 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 09:42:22 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John:  good luck.

My advice, crazy as it may sound, is go buy a TR4/4A parts car.  Much as I
love Moss motors and TRF, a restoration becomes very expensive of you go
there for all the parts you need.  I am on my fourth restoration and have an
old TR3 I turn to each time I find a part missing, broken or beyond repair.
And when I am finished, I'll probably get a good proportion of my money back
on the parts car when I sell it off.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 9:20 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A

Hi all list members,

My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing
an internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in
the best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.

John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:44:52 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting
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Joe -

I also used no sealant on the seal between the frame and body.  I have
driven in rain once in awhile over the past 10 years w/o any leak.

I can almost see the possible need for sealant on the windscreen seal as
not all glass seems to fit well -- but again, I used none there either w/o
a problem.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 08:17:05 2013
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From: Andy Graybeal <andygraybeal@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 15:16:22 -0800
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher issue
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Hi, all
I recently purchased from Moss Motors and installed LED replacements for the
original signal/tail lights. The lights work fine and are nice and bright, but
the electronic flasher doesn't take a rest when the turn signal stalk is in
the off position. It continues to click away but the only light affected is
the indicator light on the dash. I can't figure out how to stop it. Anyone
have that problem?

Andy Graybeal

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 12:08:24 -0500
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Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2
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Thanks for all the replies to my initial query on mounting the TR6
windshield to the body. Half used a compound between the rubber seal and the
body, half did not. I looked at my old rubber seal that I removed and it did
have the residue of a dum-dum-like material on the bottom of it. I also
noticed that it did not curl under, but that's because it's old and hard
whereas the new seal is soft and pliable. I'm guessing that the tendency to
curl under is what makes for an effective seal. The problem is that if I use
a caulking material, I can't use the rope trick to pull the curl out flat. 

PA is currently getting warm (high 40s) winds from the south, so I will be
trying to beat the return of Old Man Winter. I will be gluing the seal to
the windshield frame today, and want to mount the assembly to the body
tomorrow. Any thoughts from those that did use a sealant? Am I anticipating
a problem that doesn't really exist? I just don't want to end up scratching
the paint with metal objects while trying to get the seal to lay flat.

To be clear, I'm talking about the rubber seal that goes between the
windshield frame and the body of the TR6. TR4s, TR250s and Spits should be
similar.

Thanks

Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr4A.......
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I restored a tr-3 with the "how to restore tr-3" book and it was invaluable. 
I think the tr-4 book would be just as valuable to you.  Read the whole book
BEFORE starting a restoration as well as anything else you can read.  Use
several sources instead of just one.  I also used internet searches for
specific problems, a british car forum as well as this list.  Internet help
such as this list is priceless.  I swear I would have given up on my project
without the instant help available here.
GOOD LUCK!

gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 14:31:42 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 STONE GUARDS
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 Randall and list:

I read with interest about the stone guards. And their need to be reworked.

At the present time, I understand there is only one source of these
components.

Does any one (Randall) have a set of cosmetically challenged stone guards
sitting on the shelf that is OEM?

I have been helping N.R.P. select panels for reproduction. This might be a
candidate.

Keith Niehaus is a talented welder/fabricator and is now shipping repair
panels to Moss/TRF/VB.

I would be willing to review with Keith to see if he is interested in tooling
up for this set. And I have my TR3A available for him for reference and trial
installation.  What's in it for me?  Keith is reworking our TR4 RACE CAR body
while using it to develop repair panels. I am helping him with marketing and
distribution, too.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 14:35:57 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1357789366.99586.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:33:03 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] tr4A.......
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

One of the best internet sources for my TR250 rebuild was the Buckeye 
Triumphs website, which has a great technical section covering many many 
rebuilds and installs on TRs, Vintage Triumph Register is pretty good too, I 
would bookmark both.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 10 16:28:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 18:25:30 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, Andy Graybeal <andygraybeal@earthlink.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic flasher issue
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This is just a thought as I have not converted to LED tail lights.  But I have noticed that some flashers do not work correctly with the dash lamp grounded, and do work properly if you instead connect the lamp to the green circuit (switched power).  At any rate, this is an easy thing to try on a TR3 (not sure about later cars), as the lamp holder is not grounded through its mount.  You can just remove the ground wire from the tie point on the back of the panel, and instead connect it to the hot terminal on the fuel gauge.

HTH
Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 18:54:04 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Electronic flasher issue
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---- andygraybeal@earthlink.net wrote: 
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> 
> If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, please fill out the short request form

Sorry, Andy, I don't play those games.  If you want help with your Triumph questions, YOU need to deal with your silly anti-spam measures, not me.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 13:42:38 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>, "Triumphs List"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <004d01cdef55$1a7c8840$4f7598c0$@net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 17:10:43 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Joe,

If you decide to use sealant between the frame and cowl, 3M auto glazing and 
bedding compound # 08509 was recommended to me for this application.

Description:Non-hardening, pliable, water-resistant, medium-
bodied sealer for sealing auto seams and
between windshield rubber and car body. Can
be used as a supplementary sealer for auto
glass installation

I intend to use this material, because without it I think I will get air or 
water leaking under the windshield frame.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: Joseph Laurito
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 10:08 AM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2

Thanks for all the replies to my initial query on mounting the TR6
windshield to the body. Half used a compound between the rubber seal and the
body, half did not. I looked at my old rubber seal that I removed and it did
have the residue of a dum-dum-like material on the bottom of it. I also
noticed that it did not curl under, but that's because it's old and hard
whereas the new seal is soft and pliable. I'm guessing that the tendency to
curl under is what makes for an effective seal. The problem is that if I use
a caulking material, I can't use the rope trick to pull the curl out flat.

PA is currently getting warm (high 40s) winds from the south, so I will be
trying to beat the return of Old Man Winter. I will be gluing the seal to
the windshield frame today, and want to mount the assembly to the body
tomorrow. Any thoughts from those that did use a sealant? Am I anticipating
a problem that doesn't really exist? I just don't want to end up scratching
the paint with metal objects while trying to get the seal to lay flat.

To be clear, I'm talking about the rubber seal that goes between the
windshield frame and the body of the TR6. TR4s, TR250s and Spits should be
similar.

Thanks

Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 15:43:57 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:40:34 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3wTBtAPh1Rpf3yQaCs5AbKXXHcJg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] polarity question
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My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive
ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the
battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the
positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator.

 

Did all this and still the battery is not charging.  But if I bridge the
green and yellow) to the positive pole of the battery, the generator will
charge and the ignition light will go out.

 

What I am missing here?  Was there a step two I forgot?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001101cdf04c$ada73690$08f5a3b0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:26:52 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] polarity question
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A couple of thoughts -

1. The ignition coil will need to be reversed.
2. You may need a new regulator that is designed for the negative ground.
I'm guessing that this project involves a generator.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 5:41 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] polarity question

My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive
ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the
battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the
positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator.

 

Did all this and still the battery is not charging.  But if I bridge the
green and yellow) to the positive pole of the battery, the generator will
charge and the ignition light will go out.

 

What I am missing here?  Was there a step two I forgot?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 16:55:37 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:52:08 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote: 
> My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive
> ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the
> battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the
> positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator.

That should work.  It is best to swap the connections to the ignition coil and ammeter, but that won't have any effect on the charging system.

Hate to say it, but I think you have some other failure that just happened to coincide with the change in battery polarity.  There are some tests outlined at
http://goo.gl/mQy6i
that might help.

BTW, be really careful about bridging the green/yellow to the battery while the engine is running.  That drives the generator to full output, and it can put out enough current to damage itself.  A few seconds will probably be OK, but don't try to drive that way.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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---- Karl Vacek <kvacek@ameritech.net> wrote: 
> Just lift one end and set it back down again, and it may
> well read different by a couple of tenths of a degree or more.  

Sounds defective to me, my 3' bubble level is better than that. (0.2 degrees over 4 feet is more than 1/8")   Take it back.

Sorry, can't help with the smart level.  Around here, even if it is dead nuts today, there'll likely be an earthquake next week and it won't be any more.  I probably use the 8" torpedo level as much as the 3 footer, though.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 11 20:55:34 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 19:52:13 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A
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Welcome, and congratulations on the project.

I'd get a copy of the factory parts catalog, if you can find one: 
http://trf.zeni.net/TR4-GB/223.php  part number 514837.  I'd also get Moss' 
catalog, which supplements the factory drawings with additional information 
and some additional pictures, but Moss uses a different part numbering 
scheme than did the factory, and many times it helps to know the factory 
numbers (e.g., to find out fastener sizes, for example.)

I hardly ever pull out the Haynes or the original workshop manual I have.  I 
probably would if I was working on the drivetrain, but I'm not.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 7:20 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A

Hi all list members,

My first post.  I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A.  Am
looking for a restoration guide to help me along.  I have found three doing 
an
internet search.  They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the
best one.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.  TIA.

John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

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From: Steven Evans <sevans8218@aol.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:43:55 -0500
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	s=20121107; t=1358023436;
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Subject: [TR] 1970 TR6 Muffler
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Hello,
Does anyone know who might sell the 1970 TR6 single pipe muffler (with  
the two tail pieces)? I can't find just the muffler alone without  
having to buy the entire pipe system along with it. Thanks.
Steve

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:47:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] another polarity ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 with positive
ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on it but am not sure how to deal
with the coil wiring.  Any suggestions? 

Some
day...........month.......year.........also wanna go to alternator but that's
for another time.

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 17:13:26 2013
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References: <1358120868.38337.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 19:09:44 -0500
To: Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1358122187;
	bh=OOxLA0AGL72Ey7j9dPZsuCQuKANn2uiUDfayr3nXOjo=;
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Subject: [TR] Fwd:  another polarity ?
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I do know with a Pertronix setup, one can buy it either positive ground or
negative ground. So first check out the Crane setup and see if there is a
switch to change the polarity before you attempt to change the polarity on the
car. Larry Schwartz

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
> Date: January 13, 2013, 6:47:48 PM EST
> To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] another polarity ?
> Reply-To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
>
> I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 with positive
> ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on it but am not sure how to
deal
> with the coil wiring.  Any suggestions?
>
> Some
> day...........month.......year.........also wanna go to alternator but
that's
> for another time.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s@aol.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 13 17:23:52 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 16:20:01 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3x6Hmx3KjC0NRtSiuDmetOtj+0nQAAwT0Q
Subject: Re: [TR] another polarity ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 
> with positive ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on 
> it but am not sure how to deal with the coil wiring.  Any 
> suggestions? 

Depends on which version of the XR700 you have.  The early ones were
polarity-specific; to switch polarity you had to replace the box.  The later
ones with the LED on the side of the module could be wired either way.

Here are the instructions, if you are lucky enough to have the later version
http://goo.gl/K3C2h

Basically, the connections from the module to the coil and pickup remain the
same, but the box has to get positive on the red wire and negative on the
black wire.  That means you will be removing the present ground connection
from the red wire, grounding the black wire instead, and connecting the
original power from the ignition switch (white wire from the harness) to the
red wire.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 07:29:09 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:25:08 -0500
From: John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>
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Subject: [TR] A bit much...
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http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/triumph/tr6/1521807.html?refer=news

Note the rear tires on this thing.

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 07:30:01 2013
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From: Home Consolidated <triumphs@consolidated.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:26:12 -0600
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Chicago swap meet
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Does anyone know the date this year?

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 07:46:53 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 14:43:04 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] A bit much...
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ho-hum.  Very pedestrian compared to the one in our club.  :-)

This TR6 looks slower but more steetable than the one here in Minnesota.  The one here has a lot more horsies, but the wheelbase has been lengthened to help it stay straight on the strip.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213592914/in/set-72157594234621685/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213592914/in/set-72157594234621685/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213631114/in/set-72157594234621685/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213636465/in/set-72157594234621685/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John T Nichols" <jtnichols@comcast.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 8:25:08 AM
> Subject: [TR] A bit much...
> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/triumph/tr6/1521807.html?refer=news
> 
> Note the rear tires on this thing.
> 
> John T. Nichols
> '58 TR3A TS32093LO
> '86 TVR 280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 08:29:46 2013
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	PST
From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:25:32 -0600
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <875C00B5-B6F7-47FA-A1D1-B49B5920CC97@consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Chicago swap meet
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Our club newsletter has the date as Feb 24th.  Here is the web page
http://swapmeet.chicagolandmgclub.com

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627


On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:26 AM, Home Consolidated wrote:

> Does anyone know the date this year?
>
> Ken Gano

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 10:08:39 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 12:04:41 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.19.1358017204.19939.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired my 1962 TR4
(CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio installed. The
steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash and the
top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered with a vinyl,
grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this bracket in
flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303

On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket, finished in a
black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original"
http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm

For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish or vinyl
covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case that makes a
difference)

As always, thanks so much for your feedback.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 10:16:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:12:31 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at
work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others?
Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck &
hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the
West coast that they would like to see go to a good home?
     TIA,
 
    
-Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 10:40:53 2013
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References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:36:57 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my opinion the Mark III was the best of the line. It retained much
of the early charm of the Spitfire looks, had the best engine, and if
you can find one with the optional overdrive, a complete joy to drive.

We've presently got a pair of '78 Spitfire 1500's and I'd exchange
mine for an earlier one in a heartbeat.

Jody

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 10:12 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:
>      I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at
> work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others?
> Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck &
> hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the
> West coast that they would like to see go to a good home?
>      TIA,
>
>
> -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jodyfkerr@gmail.com



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 11:32:41 2013
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From: "William C. Quincy" <wquincy@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 12:28:57 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings Listers,

I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to
do instrument rebuild / calibration.
Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all liars.

P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric.

Bill Quincy
1960 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 11:46:12 2013
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From: HANS DEFERRANTE <sukatr3@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:42:22 -0800
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am restoring a '76 Spit and am at a loss where the trip reset button mounts.
It was just hanging under the dashboard. A pic would be most helpful.
Thanks
Hans
'61TR3A
'76 Spit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Mack, Michael (Rochester)" <Michael.Mack@redcross.org>
To: HANS DEFERRANTE <sukatr3@gmail.com>, Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button
Thread-Index: AQHN8ob6k+W2VOlpu0W4v3+m5CstbZhJKadw
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 18:50:22 +0000
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Subject: Re: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just to the right of the steering column.  There will be a hole in the metal
that strengthens the black padded trim under the wood dash.  Use the length of
the reset cable to find the hole.  It will be at the point of the length of
the cables limit.

Mike Mack
79 Spitfire
80 TR8
76 TR7
73 Stag

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HANS DEFERRANTE
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 1:42 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button

I am restoring a '76 Spit and am at a loss where the trip reset button
mounts.
It was just hanging under the dashboard. A pic would be most helpful.
Thanks
Hans
'61TR3A
'76 Spit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack@redcross.org

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:58:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The date is 24 Feb 13 see http://www.britishcarswap.info/

brgds, Jay

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 12:04:08 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "William C. Quincy" <wquincy@cox.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <B1A500FA-B0D8-4FF2-9C8E-4241B0D80578@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 14:00:04 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

"All" of the 6-Pack guys have moved to Morris at West Valley instruments 
over the past few years. Outstanding work, good price and accurate 
turnaround times.

http://westvalleyinstruments.com/  but call and ask for Morris.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more



-----Original Message----- 
From: William C. Quincy
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 1:28 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding

Greetings Listers,

I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to
do instrument rebuild / calibration.
Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all 
liars.

P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric.

Bill Quincy
1960 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 12:10:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 11:06:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The dash connecting plate "radio bracket" in my '64 TR4, [CT38895LO] owned since 
'67, is and always has been vinyl covered with no radio. 


brgds, Jay

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 13:49:47 2013
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From: TR250Driver@aol.com
Full-name: TR250Driver
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:45:20 -0500 (EST)
To: wquincy@cox.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding
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Bill,
I used _http://www.nisonger.com/_ (http://www.nisonger.com/)  for my  
TR3B's oil pressure gauge. They did a nice job. I am about to give  them my TR6's 
Speedometer.
Regards,
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 1/14/2013 1:29:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wquincy@cox.net writes:

Greetings Listers,

I'd appreciate some opinions from the  list on who is currently "the guys" 
to
do instrument rebuild /  calibration.
Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges  are all 
liars.

P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's  electric.

Bill Quincy
1960 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net  **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:05:14 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 19
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Keith,
I have the 3 factory versions of TR4 radio plates; 1962, 1963, 1964. Some were
black wrinkle paint, some vinyl covered, with or without a radio. Your's
sounds right, just the way you found it. I'll be using the 1964 version as it
has bigger radio face hole and slots for knobs versus the round holes, giving
best option for vintage or newer radios. I have a picture of the brackets if
interested.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired my 1962
TR4
(CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio installed. The
steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash and the
top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered with a
vinyl,
grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this bracket in
flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303

On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket, finished in a
black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original"
http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm

For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish or vinyl
covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case that makes a
difference)

As always, thanks so much for your feedback

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:05:43 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:59:46 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac3ymY2bO94Q4LmsSQeew47e/8ptLw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] charging issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3.  I
thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground,
but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere.

I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but
today I tried a FOURTH and all is well.  So Randall was right (again).....
Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ???

One final question:  I now have three regulators which aren't working:  Are
they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:06:06 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <TR250Driver@aol.com>, <wquincy@cox.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3de93.765bb37c.3e25c85f@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:01:20 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHeWd0zzD4uxyEoMJaNzd0Yt7+nyJgogL8Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used several groups, but Nisonger is at the top of my list.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:45 PM
To: wquincy@cox.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding

Bill,
I used _http://www.nisonger.com/_ (http://www.nisonger.com/)  for my TR3B's
oil pressure gauge. They did a nice job. I am about to give  them my TR6's
Speedometer.
Regards,
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 1/14/2013 1:29:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
wquincy@cox.net writes:

Greetings Listers,

I'd appreciate some opinions from the  list on who is currently "the guys" 
to
do instrument rebuild /  calibration.
Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges  are all
liars.

P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's  electric.

Bill Quincy
1960 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net  **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:46:36 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:42:53 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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	bh=fedDpsNnOEKtA4odb3oB7i5UvMx2W0qo18hPWOkH1Wk=;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

9 times out of 10, the points are dirty. It's probably not the correct
material to use, but I've run a piece of 320 wet or dry between the points
with great success.



Ed



----- Original Message -----


From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:59:46 PM
Subject: [TR] charging issue

I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3. B I
thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground,
but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere.

I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but
today I tried a FOURTH and all is well. B So Randall was right (again).....
Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ???

One final question: B I now have three regulators which aren't working: B Are
they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:53:49 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:49:53 -0500
References: <mailman.3696.1358189656.1937.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine is a '62 with black wrinkle paint and a Triumph radio.

On Jan 14, 2013, at 1:54 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired  
> my 1962 TR4
> (CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio  
> installed. The
> steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash  
> and the
> top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered  
> with a vinyl,
> grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this  
> bracket in
> flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed.
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303
>
> On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket,  
> finished in a
> black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original"
> http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm
>
> For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish  
> or vinyl
> covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case  
> that makes a
> difference)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 14:55:28 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:49:48 -0500
From: <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [TR] Convertible Top Materials
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm considering buying a new top for my TR4.  I've given up on the one I have,
which came with the car. I've tried to stretch it, using all the know
suggestions (leave it in the sun, heater in car, wallpaper steamer), but as
soon as it contracts, the snaps start to rip away!  At one point, I think this
was a very good quality top, maybe the canvas and not the vinyl.  Anyway back
to the new top.  Been looking at the ususal sites, and though I would like to
go top shelf, my budget just won't support it.  So it's going to be vinyl.
Question - whats the difference between Bison and Everflex vinyl?  I found one
site (premiumcovertibletops.com) selling tops for $269, which are the Bison
Vinyl.  The Everflex are more expensive, but it does appear on the VB online
site, that the they're selling the Everflex for $329.  Has anyone every
purchased one of these tops from VB?  Is the Bison Vinyl going to hold up?  I
would note that my first preference is top down, so maybe not as much wear and
tear?

If anyone knows of other good sources (quality at a good price), other than
the big 3 (Moss, TRF, VB), please let me know.

Thanks,
Paul
61 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 15:24:18 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:20:24 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, "William C. Quincy" <wquincy@cox.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- "William C. Quincy" <wquincy@cox.net> wrote: 

> P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric.

Don't forget, that means it needs the voltage stabilizer in the circuit.  Without the stabilizer it will read way high even after being "repaired".

I did my own, so no feedback on the best service to use.  

Recalibrating the speedo was a fun and educational project, I'll have to write it up some day.  Basically I rigged my soldering gun as a demagnetizer (using a bolt and some wire) to weaken the flying magnet inside the speedo.  That worked a little too well, so then I had to remagnetize it using a horseshoe electromagnet that I quickly made from a muffler clamp, some insulated wire, and a couple of big capacitors.  Then the second time I was a little more careful with the soldering gun degausser, and got it just right.  (According to the electronic tach I got from Harbor Freight, which may not be the best reference.)
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-contact-tachometer-66400.html

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:15:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Q <hdrider570@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]  TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a fairly early TR4 CY13,*** LO which I bought from the original owner years ago (1973 I think).  It had a Triumph AM radio mounted in a metal bracket with black "wrinkle" paint on it.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <20130114214948.A2IM7.46409.root@hrndva-web04-z01>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:30:46 -0600
To: "<pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>" <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Convertible Top Materials
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff Zorn, at LBCarCo, has a UK source that helped me with an  Everflex
tonneau cover at a reasonable cost, you might check with him.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jan 14, 2013, at 3:49 PM, <pbrandsema@triad.rr.com> wrote:

I'm considering buying a new top for my TR4.  I've given up on the one I
have,
which came with the car. I've tried to stretch it, using all the know
suggestions (leave it in the sun, heater in car, wallpaper steamer), but as
soon as it contracts, the snaps start to rip away!  At one point, I think
this
was a very good quality top, maybe the canvas and not the vinyl.  Anyway back
to the new top.  Been looking at the ususal sites, and though I would like to
go top shelf, my budget just won't support it.  So it's going to be vinyl.
Question - whats the difference between Bison and Everflex vinyl?  I found
one
site (premiumcovertibletops.com) selling tops for $269, which are the Bison
Vinyl.  The Everflex are more expensive, but it does appear on the VB online
site, that the they're selling the Everflex for $329.  Has anyone every
purchased one of these tops from VB?  Is the Bison Vinyl going to hold up?  I
would note that my first preference is top down, so maybe not as much wear
and
tear?

If anyone knows of other good sources (quality at a good price), other than
the big 3 (Moss, TRF, VB), please let me know.

Thanks,
Paul
61 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 17:01:15 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:57:04 -0700
thread-index: Ac3yemSFHAwLJIl8QU+ewbBCR1wmIQAOD8lQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,
That is a very personal question.  The answer depends entirely on who you
ask.  Personally I like the round tail ones and mostly the Mk1 and Mk2 when
the front bumper is lower.  The Mk3 however has a superior engine.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?

     I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend
at
work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others?
Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck &
hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the
West coast that they would like to see go to a good home?
     TIA,
 
    
-Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 17:01:57 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:58:03 -0700
thread-index: Ac3yemSFHAwLJIl8QU+ewbBCR1wmIQAOIKaw
Subject: Re: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, I forgot.  Just add a camber compensator and that will eliminate the
wheel tuck issues.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?

     I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend
at
work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others?
Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck &
hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the
West coast that they would like to see go to a good home?
     TIA,
 
    
-Bill in Tehachapi

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 17:59:45 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 19:55:59 -0500 (EST)
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	s=20121107; t=1358211359;
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Subject: [TR] DASH BRACKETS (RADIO)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Carl Sereda fails to mention that he is responsible for the replicated
generic panel offered by Moss.

Based on dimensions and information supplied by Carl and another enthusiast,
we decided to make 50, and it didnt make any difference if it lost money. We
did it because we could and we were being encouraged to do so.. The basic
dimensions and angles are precisely the same as OEM.

We sold the initial 50 and have had several runs since then.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 18:06:20 2013
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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:02:27 -0800
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My one-owner 64-5 TR4 has a radio bracket finished in wrinkle black, but
not the original radio.

Cheers,
John Howard

On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> The dash connecting plate "radio bracket" in my '64 TR4, [CT38895LO] owned
> since
> '67, is and always has been vinyl covered with no radio.
>
>
> brgds, Jay
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 18:14:15 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Berger Bob'" <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>, "'Listserv Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Chicago swap meet
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Not at all,


thanks,

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Berger Bob
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 7:26 AM
To: Listserv Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Chicago swap meet

Our club newsletter has the date as Feb 24th.  Here is the web page
http://swapmeet.chicagolandmgclub.com

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627


On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:26 AM, Home Consolidated wrote:

> Does anyone know the date this year?
>
> Ken Gano

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 18:57:40 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <fogbro1@comcast.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, 'Randall' <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
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Thanks!  I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New Hampshire) who
refurbishes these regulators with solid-state hardware.  Anyone know more
about this?

Andrew



From: fogbro1@comcast.net [mailto:fogbro1@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 4:43 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: Randall; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue



9 times out of 10, the points are dirty. It's probably not the correct
material to use, but I've run a piece of 320 wet or dry between the points
with great success.



Ed

  _____

From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:59:46 PM
Subject: [TR] charging issue

I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3.  I
thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground,
but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere.

I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but
today I tried a FOURTH and all is well.  So Randall was right (again).....
Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ???

One final question:  I now have three regulators which aren't working:  Are
they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 20:18:51 2013
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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 03:13:19 +0000 (UTC)
From: suhringtr36@comcast.net
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid
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After replacing the throwout beraring on my '59 TR3A, I thought I would take advantage of the transmission being exposed and trouble shoot why my OD was not working.  My question to the list is with the ignition turned on but the engine off, I can throw the OD switch and hear the solenoid click on and off, but I see no movement of the plunger.  When testing it this way, should I see any movement or is this all internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement?

On another note, those on the list from PA, I just got my vintage plate registered for my TR3A.  Yes, PA finally woke up and now allows you to register a vintage PA plate. It must be the same year as your car and the plate cannot show up in anyone else's name.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 22:25:12 -0600
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I have only seen them with a black wrinkle finish.  Learn something new everyday.  Think i still have a decent original somewhere.  Will sell quite reasonably if a Lister needs one.  Greg Lemon

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I have only seen them with a black wrinkle finish.  Learn something new everyday.  Think i still have a decent original somewhere.  Will sell quite reasonably if a Lister needs one.  Greg Lemon

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 20:44:39 -0800
Thread-Index: AQI0lVFjbysvbCKDq183/mHnPQGpMpd8W22QgAAvoXA=
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Thanks!  I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New 
> Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state 
> hardware.  Anyone know more about this?

I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH.
http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx

No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 14 21:59:42 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: suhringtr36@comcast.net
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:55:57 -0700
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Cc: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a recent experience with the same symptoms on my OD. Usually it  
means the solenoid is bad, but NOT always. I switched solenoids (I had  
a spare from another OD handy) and it did the same thing,  clicked but  
didn't move the plunger. Turns out the OD relay was bad. It had enough  
voltage to make the solenoid click but didn't send enough current to  
the solenoid to pull the plunger up. Put in a new relay and all was  
good. Strange behavior and it wasn't mentioned in Dan Master's book.  
Had me going until someone on the list explained that it's current  
that provides the umph to move the plunger not the voltage which only  
makes the solenoid do a click and not a pull. There's two circuits in  
the solenoid one to pull the plunger and one to hold it so if it  
doesn't get pulled no OD. Apparently OD relays can burn the points and  
reduce the current to the solenoid.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:13 PM, suhringtr36@comcast.net wrote:

> After replacing the throwout beraring on my '59 TR3A, I thought I  
> would take advantage of the transmission being exposed and trouble  
> shoot why my OD was not working.  My question to the list is with  
> the ignition turned on but the engine off, I can throw the OD switch  
> and hear the solenoid click on and off, but I see no movement of the  
> plunger.  When testing it this way, should I see any movement or is  
> this all internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement?
>
> On another note, those on the list from PA, I just got my vintage  
> plate registered for my TR3A.  Yes, PA finally woke up and now  
> allows you to register a vintage PA plate. It must be the same year  
> as your car and the plate cannot show up in anyone else's name.
>
> Scott Suhring
> Mechanicsburg, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 01:00:23 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 23:56:36 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3yzpfxvNJZVevlRgySVPNfbx0eagAJGGOw
Subject: Re: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> My 
> question to the list is with the ignition turned on but the 
> engine off, I can throw the OD switch and hear the solenoid 
> click on and off, but I see no movement of the plunger.  When 
> testing it this way, should I see any movement or is this all 
> internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement?

Normally, you should be able to see the plunger pull up into the solenoid.
However with no pressure in the OD (or if the adjustment has slipped), the
plunger may have not fallen back down.  If it is already up, you might not
see it move.  Move it to be sure it is down and try again.

And as Bud already pointed out, check the voltage right at the solenoid with
the solenoid still connected.  The solenoid draws a big wad of current when
it moves, so any little resistance in the circuit (like a dodgy connection
or a bad relay) will keep it from getting the current it needs.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 08:02:58 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 09:59:08 -0500 (EST)
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,
 
IMHO.....I prefer the last of the "roundtail" Spit's - the 1970 Mark  
3.....the front bumper was raised enough to be a little more effective yet the  
soft styling was still maintained.  The engine was still strong enough to  
have a lot of fun with (pre USA emissions stuff).....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
In a message dated 1/14/2013 12:12:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wsb1960tr3a@att.net writes:

I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a  friend at
work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better  than 
others?
Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid  of wheel tuck 
&
hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a  good Spitfire on 
the
West coast that they would like to see go to a good  home?
TIA,


-Bill in  Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 15:29:48 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "wsb1960tr3a@att.net" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Best Year Spitfire?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If I was looking for a Spitfire and having driven all variants down the years
as new and used cars, It's a one horse race in favour of the Mk 3 with the
1296cc small bearing engine, with no early emission control trash and an
overdrive. That ticks all the boxes!
The Mk IV with the 1300 engine wasn't
nearly as much fun and I found the 1500 to be a big disappointment except for
the fact that it held the road better. Let's face it, rear-end breakaway up to
the days of the 'swing spring' was always a prominent Spitfire feature and it
all adds up to the enjoyment of driving one. There's only one better
alternative in the rear end drama department and that's either a Mk 1 GT6 or a
Mk 1 2 litre Vitesse without the GT6 lower wishbone set up. Best laxatives
known to man on a wet road with bias ply tyres as many of them had ex factory!
Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 11:48:58 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <6F.EF.25866.4BED4F05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 12:44:29 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe wilton also takes the old analog devices and puts in a digital 
interior.  unless you open them you can't tell the difference.  I have heard 
may people extol their praises

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:44 PM
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue

> Thanks!  I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New
> Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state
> hardware.  Anyone know more about this?

I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH.
http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx

No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 radio brackets & overrider struts
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the shout-out Joe,


The other guy, who input measurements into CAD plotter for manufacturing
drawings was Kurtis Jones.. wow, back in 2005..


Ps; I also made detailed drawings of the two TR4 front bumper overrider
'struts' which would be easy enough to replicate with 5/8" steel tubing - and
all TR4s should have them!


Regards,
Carl (Sereda)
'63 TR4 since '74



Carl Sereda fails to mention that he is responsible for the replicated
generic panel offered by Moss.

Based on dimensions and information supplied by Carl and another enthusiast,
we decided to make 50, and it didnt make any difference if it lost money. We
did it because we could and we were being encouraged to do so.. The basic
dimensions and angles are precisely the same as OEM.

We sold the initial 50 and have had several runs since then.

Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 18:11:32 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 20:07:37 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3799.1358264010.1937.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR Radio/Console Bracket Responses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A summary of what listers had to say.

The SPC says there were two different brackets with a change at
8379CT/8380CT.
One lister says there were three different brackets (62, 63, 64) and he has
all three. The third one being similar to the second but with different
cut-outs for the knobs. Some of those were vinyl and some were wrinkle
finish.
One lister says the TRA judging guideline claims they were black wrinkle
finish.
Two listers indicate they have disassembled numerous TR4s and they were all
black wrinkle finish.

Specific examples from listers were:

Black Wrinkle Finish
2 64/65
1 64
1 63/64
2 62

Black Vinyl (glued vinyl material, not vinyl covered foam as in TR4As)
1 62
1 (unknown year or commission #)
1 64

My conclusions: both vinyl and wrinkle finish were used. I think perhaps the
vinyl was used early and the wrinkle finish later but am surprised at the two
62s with wrinkle finish and the one 64 with vinyl.

Thanks to all those original owners who replied.

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 15 22:08:53 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:04:54 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1358312695;
	bh=luOrUO7RKb2VmEsGKeUcvnwXGKrfGModHTGuZ44x4nw=;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

APT did the tach on my Europa.  Rock-solid.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 12:44:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
> I believe wilton also takes the old analog devices and puts in a
> digital
> interior. unless you open them you can't tell the difference. I have
> heard
> may people extol their praises
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall
> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:44 PM
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue
> 
> > Thanks! I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New
> > Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state
> > hardware. Anyone know more about this?
> 
> I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH.
> http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx
> 
> No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers.
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 22:49:55 -0800
From: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!

Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
send them off than fiddle with them myself.

Thanks!

-Malcolm

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 04:50:39 2013
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References: <CAGjWObUvdB-t5vowcCnKd1Zu98H5m3PtSq8UJeRcnrMK9YPYQw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:46:19 -0600
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca> wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
> parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!
>
> Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
> SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
> tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
> send them off than fiddle with them myself.
>


joecurtoinc.com

NFI

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 05:22:54 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 06:18:54 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: emanteno@comcast.net, malcolm@ipatch.ca
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Paltech tech - www.paltech1.com

Jeff does great work.

Craig
72 tr6

 

On 01/16/13, Irv Korey wrote:

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca> wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
> parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins!
>
> Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have
> SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
> tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
> send them off than fiddle with them myself.
>


joecurtoinc.com

NFI

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 06:57:54 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:53:16 -0600
References: <CAGjWObUvdB-t5vowcCnKd1Zu98H5m3PtSq8UJeRcnrMK9YPYQw@mail.gmail.com>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I sent my HS6's to Paltech.  Very happy with his work.


On Jan 16, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
> parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!
>
> Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
> SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
> tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
> send them off than fiddle with them myself.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Malcolm
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<malcolm@ipatch.ca>
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 09:53:18 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Joe Curto.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Irv Korey" <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Date: Wed, Jan 16, 2013 05:46


On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca> wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
> parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!
>
> Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
> SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
> tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
> send them off than fiddle with them myself.
>


joecurtoinc.com

NFI

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Malcolm'" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAGjWObUvdB-t5vowcCnKd1Zu98H5m3PtSq8UJeRcnrMK9YPYQw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:27:39 -0600
thread-index: Ac3zteIBe1pogCU7SnGPrDb8FgtwZgAT6unw
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would recommend Joe C as well, NFI.

BTW, AUC768 is an older SU that was not used after the 1958 TR3.  The main
tell is the fuel connections on the float bowls.  Do you have a 'banjo'
connector for your fuel line attachment (2-way on the front and 1-way on the
rear)?   OR, are the connections made directly into the lid of the bowl?
Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might be
an HS6.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 12:50 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming

Hi List,

Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!

Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
send them off than fiddle with them myself.

Thanks!

-Malcolm

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 08:28:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Malcolm
i have just worked on this 2 weeks ago myself.
what i found with my
carbs was the existing bushings where only ever so slightly out of tolerance.
like 0.0015 to 0.002.
i found my shafts however where as much as 0.015 under
size at the bushing.
i simply replaced the shafts and have my idle down to
where it will stall if i wind the screws all the way out.
your results may
vary.
Frank

From: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 10:49 PM
Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Hi List,

Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from
street
parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!

Can anyone
recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I have
SU H6 AUC768
and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
tag!) that I would
like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
send them off than
fiddle with them myself.

Thanks!

-Malcolm

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 11:05:04 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 13:00:42 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Joe Curto!
 
 
In a message dated 1/16/2013 1:50:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
malcolm@ipatch.ca writes:

Hi  List,

Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive  from street
parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work  begins!

Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and  rebushed?  I have
SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original  parts (like the AUC768
tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts  are leaking and I'd rather
send them off than fiddle with them  myself.

Thanks!

-Malcolm

** triumphs@autox.team.net  **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 12:19:38 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
References: <CAGjWObUvdB-t5vowcCnKd1Zu98H5m3PtSq8UJeRcnrMK9YPYQw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 13:09:13 -0600
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

paltech will have your carbs looking like jewelry.  I have had two sets done 
there.

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 7:53 AM
To: Malcolm
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming

I sent my HS6's to Paltech.  Very happy with his work.


On Jan 16, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street
> parking to get it inside the shop.  Now the work begins!
>
> Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed?  I 
> have
> SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768
> tag!) that I would like to replace.  The shafts are leaking and I'd rather
> send them off than fiddle with them myself.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Malcolm 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 14:53:39 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 16:49:45 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac30MxVGi8WXdDp1RYqLDZGP+PyHuQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes.  The small-mouth,
obviously, does not.

 

I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to
cut a hole for the dipstick, since  I don't see a level plug on the side, as
the previous gearboxes had.  Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the
tunnel?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:04:53 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote: 
> I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to
> cut a hole for the dipstick, since  I don't see a level plug on the side, as
> the previous gearboxes had.  Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the
> tunnel?

1) Cut a nice, clean hole rather than an ugly one <g>
2) Install a later gearbox (the 3 synchro boxes after TS50,000 had a plug on the side).
3) Add a plug in the side.

#1 would actually be my choice, as I really like having the dipstick.  In fact, the TR6 gearbox in my TR3 has a dipstick installed.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:18:10 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
References: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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Andrew,

The tunnel and transmission I am using on my 58 are from a 57 SM and I 
really like the dipstick as opposed to the side fill on my 4 and 6. The 
snaps on the carpet make it easy to access to check/ and fill. I believe 
TRF provides the rubber grommet. I sort of wish all Triumphs retained 
this setup.

I had some old original carpet with a snapped flap for the dipstick. But 
the current carpet sets seem to have left it out.

Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk 
behind the shifter.


Bob

On 01/16/2013 04:49 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes.  The small-mouth,
> obviously, does not.
>
>   
>
> I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to
> cut a hole for the dipstick, since  I don't see a level plug on the side, as
> the previous gearboxes had.  Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the
> tunnel?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 15:27:27 2013
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Full-name: KingsCreekTrees
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:23:30 -0500 (EST)
To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net,
  auprichard@uprichard.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree; I like the dipstick. The hole is small (small enough for me ("big  
fingers") to struggle a bit to get the dipstick out..., not ugly or a 
problem,  covered by the tunnel carpet and dead easy to check before going out on 
a run.  No need to get under the car.
 
Tim TS22930LO
 
 

 
In a message dated 16/01/2013 5:07:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver@ca.rr.com writes:

----  Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote: 
> I am putting  a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have 
to
> cut a  hole for the dipstick, since  I don't see a level plug on the 
side,  as
> the previous gearboxes had.  Any alternative to an ugly big  hole in the
> tunnel?

1) Cut a nice, clean hole rather than an  ugly one <g>
2) Install a later gearbox (the 3 synchro boxes after  TS50,000 had a plug 
on the side).
3) Add a plug in the side.

#1  would actually be my choice, as I really like having the dipstick.  In  
fact, the TR6 gearbox in my TR3 has a dipstick  installed.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<50F72722.4080203@adelphia.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 22:56:54 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Labuz wrote:
<I sort of wish all Triumphs retained this setup.>
 
I also
sort of wish Triumphs retained many other features that were abandoned on
purely cost grounds - like:
 
being able to drain rear axles instead of
assuring the customer "the oil was good for life."
Removing flitch panels in
critical places that accelerated rust
Fitting smaller radiators
Fitting
inadequate sized front brakes on FWD saloons, then fitting a booster to
improve braking
Using inferior quality alloys on the Slant 4 and Stag engines
- until reliability issues forced the upgrade as specified by Engineering
 
the list is a long one. I wish I could remember some of the rest of it :)
 
Jonmac

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:49:40 -0600
thread-index: Ac30MxVGi8WXdDp1RYqLDZGP+PyHuQAD+Ppw
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Cut the 2.25" hole and order a grommet for it, Moss 680-840/TRF 605602, on
my '58 the u-joint inspection and dip stick holes are the same.  You'll be
glad you did, sure makes life easier.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 3:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox

My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes.  The small-mouth,
obviously, does not.

 

I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to
cut a hole for the dipstick, since  I don't see a level plug on the side, as
the previous gearboxes had.  Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the
tunnel?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 17:55:06 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 0:50:57 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>,  Bob Labuz
	<yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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---- Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote: 

> Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk 
> behind the shifter.

Are you sure?  I haven't checked recently, but I thought they were the same size.  Both Moss & TRF list the same plug for both of them.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 05:38:27 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 07:34:03 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox
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Randall,

I always thought it was, maybe because it was under the battery and I 
could not see it directly.

I guess this spring when I get the 3 out and check the oil etc. I will 
take a look.

ANyway, I am happy to have the dipstick and access.

Bob

On 01/16/2013 07:50 PM, Randall wrote:
> ---- Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>> Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk
>> behind the shifter.
> Are you sure?  I haven't checked recently, but I thought they were the same size.  Both Moss & TRF list the same plug for both of them.
>
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 12:50:28 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 14:46:32 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac306zdxAS/eB80jRQGT9P/+Ehu5Rg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at the bottom with two
bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the right hand dash
support? And nothing else?

 

And if anyone has a spare said bracket, please contact me off-line.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:55:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 glove box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

as i recall there are a couple of screws at the top also.
self tapers into
quick clips.
the bracket at the back on my TR3 was an old fashioned angle
clip.
Frank

From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:46 AM
Subject:
[TR] TR3 glove box

Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at
the bottom with two
bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the
right hand dash
support? And nothing else?



And if anyone has a spare said
bracket, please contact me off-line.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 13:03:50 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net>
	<1358452516.28577.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 14:59:54 -0500
Thread-Index: AQFLINIJyMgGc4MnNeSkrk4ay5klMgKTiPR9mT78R3A=
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 glove box
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah - I wondered what those broken-off things were....

 

Thanks!

 

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 2:55 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 glove box

 

as i recall there are a couple of screws at the top also.

self tapers into quick clips.

the bracket at the back on my TR3 was an old fashioned angle clip.

Frank

 

From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:46 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box


Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at the bottom with two
bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the right hand dash
support? And nothing else?



And if anyone has a spare said bracket, please contact me off-line.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 14:38:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 16:25:33 -0500
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
Re-installing my newly painted hood hinges on the '2 and I didn't 
remember to mark the hinges right or left. They appear to slightly "toe 
in" or "toe out" with respect to the longer hood part of the hinge. What 
is the correct orientation to avoid having the hinge bind and break when 
installed?
I would like to bolt up the hood part of the hinge to make installation 
easier.
Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the 
cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 14:41:20 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 16:37:11 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1358458632;
	bh=GYOaqTX/4ZGbNSa9rsE3D6XjnHwI7zaszCe88oikOdM=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The hinge pins must be lined up or else they will bind when you open the 
bonnet.  You can trial mount them to the bonnet and swing them and see if they 
stay in the same plane or if they diverge.  If they diverge swap sides.

Dave

In a message dated 1/17/2013 3:34:04 PM Central Standard Time, 
agraham@execulink.com writes: 
> Hello List:
> Re-installing my newly painted hood hinges on the '2 and I didn't 
> remember to mark the hinges right or left. They appear to slightly "toe 
> in" or "toe out" with respect to the longer hood part of the hinge. What 
> is the correct orientation to avoid having the hinge bind and break when 
> installed?
> I would like to bolt up the hood part of the hinge to make installation 
> easier.
> Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the 
> cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense?
> Thanks for any help with this one.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 16:38:20 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:29:44 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 
> Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the 
> cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense?

The entire hinge should fit straight and parallel.

If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance from the mounting surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side.  That side goes nearest the wing.

Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight while you try them the first time, so you can move things around to fit.

After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to remove the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite when inserting the studs.  Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way to the bottom, which leaves the joint weak.  I've also gotten several sets where the stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 16:44:03 2013
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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:39:53 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote: 
> Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might be
> an HS6.

I believe the HS6 was only used on TR4A, not TR4.  Even early TR4A used ZS carbs.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 15:43:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

and they strip out the threads really easy
 
 

From: Randall
<tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; Angelo Graham
<agraham@execulink.com> 
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 3:29 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR2/3 hood hinges

---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 
>
Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the 
> cowl
mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense?

The entire hinge should fit
straight and parallel.

If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance
from the mounting surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side.  That side
goes nearest the wing.

Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight
while you try them the first time, so you can move things around to fit.
After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to remove
the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite when
inserting the studs.  Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way to the
bottom, which leaves the joint weak.  I've also gotten several sets where the
stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length.

Randall

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130117233953.KX3XH.9236.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 19:03:42 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, SU's on TR4's were H6's while SU's on 4A's were HS6. My May built 
66 TR4A has HS6 SU's.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 6:39 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming

---- Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
> Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might 
> be
> an HS6.

I believe the HS6 was only used on TR4A, not TR4.  Even early TR4A used ZS 
carbs.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 20:04:50 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>
References: <50F86C4D.6070803@execulink.com>
	<20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:00:05 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIFo2hj5+rM+L4REjgycwj6KGp3EZffCIMw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Particularly the trunk/boot hinges:  one of the studs will interfere with
the trunk rubber if not cut back.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 6:30 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; Angelo Graham
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges

---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 
> Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the 
> cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense?

The entire hinge should fit straight and parallel.

If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance from the mounting
surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side.  That side goes nearest the
wing.

Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight while you try them the
first time, so you can move things around to fit.

After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to
remove the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite
when inserting the studs.  Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way
to the bottom, which leaves the joint weak.  I've also gotten several sets
where the stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 20:55:55 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:51:37 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big
 can I go with the HS4's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The TR2 has been alot of fun. Wiring is straight, paint is good,  We drove
over 2500 miles this summer.  But....   More smoke blows out of the valve
cover and engine vent than out the exhaust....

It's time to rebuild or at least re-ring this winter.  I've never been into
the motor past a valve job.. so rebuild is more likely.

If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's adequately support
86mm pistons and liners?   Car runs great as is -- but a little more cubic
inches never hurts.....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 17 21:22:51 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 20:18:47 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac31Lzetmm1wEoZrQbGgEeDKlsCz5QAAxDQQ
Subject: Re: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how
 big can I go with the HS4's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's 
> adequately support
> 86mm pistons and liners?   Car runs great as is -- but a 
> little more cubic
> inches never hurts.....

Should work out just fine, IMO.  The smaller carbs may cost you a bit of
power at the extreme top of the rpm range, but it won't be any worse than it
is now IMO.  And the extra displacement should give you some extra mid-range
torque, which is more useful on the street anyway.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 07:02:00 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANhzkeOv_7WWcn5H8K-Z5r4Xj=9=r_3P6tg6N+FkiEdviSK0nA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:57:40 -0500
Thread-Index: AQK6Q0MG/u21jMcXILQYchmzS1SH55Z2gOiw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how
 big can I go with the HS4's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why stop at 86mm?

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 10:52 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big
can I go with the HS4's

The TR2 has been alot of fun. Wiring is straight, paint is good,  We drove
over 2500 miles this summer.  But....   More smoke blows out of the valve
cover and engine vent than out the exhaust....

It's time to rebuild or at least re-ring this winter.  I've never been into
the motor past a valve job.. so rebuild is more likely.

If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's adequately support
86mm pistons and liners?   Car runs great as is -- but a little more cubic
inches never hurts.....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:16:23 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has
"Sterite" clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for $6.88 for
a pack of 6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought 48 of
them and modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the shelves. The
bookcase is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front of the
box to label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes on the
top (double stacked).
     So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my
little parts and obscure tools for about $50.
     I am getting organized for
2013! I've wanted something like for decades.

     If anyone is interested in
a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo
to the list.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 12:36:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 19:27:41 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1358537262;
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bill's Shelves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

flickr.com is free and easy

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 1:16:23 PM
> Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves
> I just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has
> "Sterite" clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for
> $6.88 for
> a pack of 6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought
> 48 of
> them and modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the
> shelves. The
> bookcase is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front
> of the
> box to label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes
> on the
> top (double stacked).
> So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my
> little parts and obscure tools for about $50.
> I am getting organized for
> 2013! I've wanted something like for decades.
> 
> If anyone is interested in
> a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post
> a photo
> to the list.
> 
> -Bill in Tehachapi
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 12:51:39 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:42:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bill's Shelves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

i suppose you'll be buying cars with wind up windows next?
 
Frank

From:
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 11:16 AM
Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves

    I
just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has
"Sterite"
clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for $6.88 for
a pack of
6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought 48 of
them and
modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the shelves. The
bookcase
is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front of the
box to
label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes on the
top
(double stacked).
    So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my
little
parts and obscure tools for about $50.
    I am getting organized for
2013!
I've wanted something like for decades.

    If anyone is interested in
a
photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo
to
the list.

    -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 13:07:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 13:02:47 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bill's Shelves
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William Brewer wrote:
>       If anyone is interested in
> a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo
> to the list.
>
>
That reminds me - I really need to get the forums back on the air.  A good
indoor project for a cold weekend.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 17:48:28 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 16:44:06 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Here is a link to the shelves that I made.

   
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 20:16:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 19:12:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  However I'm
having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's very thin plexiglass
and the only information I've been able to find simply says the front plexi
window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
Does a person drill small holes through
the plexiglass to pull the thread through?  Is the thread then looped around
the forward vertical frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece
is also very thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as
attach the plexiglass. 


Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side
screens themselves and how they handled this.

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jan 19 04:34:37 2013
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 06:33:31 -0500
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it 
just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by 
using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the 
plastic.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  However I'm
> having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's very thin plexiglass
> and the only information I've been able to find simply says the front plexi
> window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
> Does a person drill small holes through
> the plexiglass to pull the thread through?  Is the thread then looped around
> the forward vertical frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece
> is also very thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as
> attach the plexiglass.
>
>
> Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side
> screens themselves and how they handled this.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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	cHLqWDBvvNaAgVyBsKQFrtuqZTJGVh9/sH2br/mXoCCZeSkfWk8bOzIODA8tw+OA9L
	uMiQLimvNGSOrgpRkTLErd3x5b8g3T6TDUfpuWbVQ2oaNm5QeTO4orkYJv2i1eWuXe
	qqE04Z4jKUwWTC7EUrLrCsmePlu7x+5RH96FO7Y4Ny4cFbZFRAyn+3VIeBqlbjfQmg
	RmGQkqLrPB9kA==
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My approach was bit different -  I used the router attachment on my Dremel
to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and
bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material
together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just
punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a
sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  
> However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's 
> very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find 
> simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
> Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the 
> thread through?  Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical 
> frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece is also very 
> thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the 
> plexiglass.
>
>
> Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves 
> and how they handled this.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 16:28:20 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:21:11 -0500
	P1Dz6F7w7oIWl72cI7BVnZUFDG71tFyGtd9rS8bMTJURU/wIPM
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Subject: [TR] TR4 vs TR6 Gas Tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been working with Boyd Welding (http://www.boydwelding.com/) on a 14 - 
15-ish gallon aluminum fuel tank for the TR6 and got to wondering if it 
would also fit the TR4. The stock tanks look the same but the TR4 tank is 
listed as unavailable. Does anyone know? BTW.... the aluminum tank price 
will be $475 which is quite a bit cheaper than the stock steel replacement 
tank. I trying to negotiate a one time group purchase so if you're 
interested email me at75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <BAY110-W80C87A9376CA1B82910C5E5290@phx.gbl><AANLkTikLms2FZ0pt7hh9YtEZ=-2WFqHmGb7nUNFo8x5u@mail.gmail.com><18C7F3F1F1004BA0AEE0312C76D9BB55@bboffice>
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 17:43:25 -0600
Thread-Index: AcuUrlazHDTq8Fs3Tx6exkq/t+eI54TFcaJQ
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Geo,
Trying to install my TRF hoodstick cover and don't seem to be able to get it
right.  I believe I got the two inside pegs correct based on the LTD snaps
that were already installed.  But, while I put the inner pegs as high as I
could without interference from the body, they still seem too low and
conflict with the rear panel when re-installed.

I remembered you had posted some pictures, but these links seem to no longer
be working.  Do you have new links?

Much appreciated,
Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 12:58 PM
To: wbeech@flash.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover.

On 12/4/10, wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
>> the 'hidden' peg is in an odd spot but works and fits fine.
>
> ...can you pictorially share this location?

Here is where the inny peg is on mine:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%201.JPG

To use it the female LTD is installed upside down & inside out:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%202.JPG

I almost never undo that fastener since when I use the tonneau I just undo
the rest of the stick cover and let it hang down back there.  I do use a
combination of towels & foam to take up some of the slack in the fitted
cover:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%203.JPG

Stick cover in place:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%204.JPG

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Steve Thornton <sothornton@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:46:19 -0500 (EST)
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Cc: bill.davis@wku.edu
Subject: [TR] Surrey top help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List-



I purchased a surrey top for my TR250 this weekend, after a long search for
one. It came with the back section and a steel mid section.

My questions are-

1. What is the best way to store them when not in use?

2. Do you have to take the convertible top and frame off to install the surrey
top?

3. Does anyone have a set of surrey top installation instructions?

4. Does anyone know of a source for the soft top midsection and the frame that
goes with it?


Many thanks in advance.




Steven O. Thornton
Attorney at Law
1011 Lehman Avenue
Suite 102
Bowling Green, KY   42103


270-781-6630

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 17:08:21 2013
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 16:04:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!

BEST PENETRATING OILS ....

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating
oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque"
on rusted nuts and bolts.

A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit
being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted"
bolt.

Average torque load to loosen nut:


No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds
PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix.................. 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid
and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial
product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally
good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50/50 mix.

ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com>
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 19:14:04 -0500
To: Steve Thornton <sothornton@aol.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"bill.davis@wku.edu" <bill.davis@wku.edu>,
	"6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey top help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Congrats. The soft top and frame middle section is available from The Roadster
Factory. I plan on installing without the convertible top and I believe they
were meant to be installed that way. Other experts may know better. If you are
storing the center section, keep someplace very safe and out of traffic. Very
easy to damage.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, fl
62 TR4
75 Tr6 with new cherry bomb glass pack.  Love it!


Sent from my iPad

On Jan 20, 2013, at 6:46 PM, Steve Thornton <sothornton@aol.com> wrote:

> Hello List-
>
>
>
> I purchased a surrey top for my TR250 this weekend, after a long search for
> one. It came with the back section and a steel mid section.
>
> My questions are-
>
> 1. What is the best way to store them when not in use?
>
> 2. Do you have to take the convertible top and frame off to install the
surrey
> top?
>
> 3. Does anyone have a set of surrey top installation instructions?
>
> 4. Does anyone know of a source for the soft top midsection and the frame
that
> goes with it?
>
>
> Many thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
> Steven O. Thornton
> Attorney at Law
> 1011 Lehman Avenue
> Suite 102
> Bowling Green, KY   42103
>
>
> 270-781-6630
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <C225CEAA05A74B83B2C742ADEB1E512B@ownerPC>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 17:50:42 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: Skip Gurnee <skip47@gbis.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We call it Weasel Pee!

Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will
eat anything else. It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to
shake it each time you want to use it.

Jody

On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee <skip47@gbis.com> wrote:
> Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
>
> BEST PENETRATING OILS ....
>
> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating
> oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque"
> on rusted nuts and bolts.
>
> A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit
> being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted"
> bolt.
>
> Average torque load to loosen nut:
>
>
> No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds
> WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds
> PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds
> Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds
> Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds
> ATF/Acetone mix.................. 53 foot pounds
>
> The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid
> and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial
> product in this one particular test.
>
> Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally
> good results.
>
> Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
> ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
> 50/50 mix.
>
> ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jodyfkerr@gmail.com



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 01:35:29 +0000 (UTC)
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
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----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
> To: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:50:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
> We call it Weasel Pee!
> 
> Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will
> eat anything else. 

Just what I want to use around painted areas of a car.  Pass.



> It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to
> shake it each time you want to use it.
> 
> Jody
> 
> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee <skip47@gbis.com> wrote:
> > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
> >
> > BEST PENETRATING OILS ....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 18:49:44 2013
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:45:15 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: pethier@comcast.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I generally tend to use it most when tearing down. :)

On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 6:35 PM,  <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jody Kerr" <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
>> To: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
>> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:50:42 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
>> We call it Weasel Pee!
>>
>> Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will
>> eat anything else.
>
> Just what I want to use around painted areas of a car.  Pass.
>
>
>
>> It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to
>> shake it each time you want to use it.
>>
>> Jody
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee <skip47@gbis.com> wrote:
>> > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
>> >
>> > BEST PENETRATING OILS ....
>



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 19:51:27 2013
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:47:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn
ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. 
It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back then
throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest.
I can't
imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter. 
Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the
smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt.  Imagine 3 day white
out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds!
Anyone have these type of experiences? 
LOL  

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 19:56:42 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 20:50:22 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

my brother had a tr3; his only car, when he was stationed at some base in 
massachusetts.  we lived in philadelphia.  I remember him heading back to 
the base one winter evening, full winter clothing including ski gloves, 
inside the car.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 8:47 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains

While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the 
worn
ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones.
It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back 
then
throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest.
I can't
imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter.
Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the
smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt.  Imagine 3 day white
out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds!
Anyone have these type of experiences?
LOL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 20:37:54 2013
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 21:33:40 -0600
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	FILETIME=[1AEAF0B0:01CDF788]
Subject: [TR] Leaking proportioning valve on my TR7
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I have a TR7 that I have been working on resurrecting.  As soon as I get one
thing fixed, something else pops up.  There is a long story about everything
I have been through.  But the short story is my current problem is brake
fluid leaking from the proportioning valve.  I wiped everything off and had
my daughter push the brake.  Fluid drips formed at the cap end closest to
the outer fender.  What is the repair for this?  Can new proportioning
valves be bought?  Is there a repair kit?  I have parts from several other
cars I have parted out.  Do I just swap one in and see what happens?  Or do
different 7's have different proportions?

Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817
Local member of St. Louis Triumph Owners Association

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 21:24:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 20:20:03 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac33ga7a3M5+c1PRTGWbYjPDnZf5OQACx4cg
Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains
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> Anyone have these type of experiences? 

Yup.  Been there, done that.  I also worked second shift at the time.
You've never lived until you've tried to push-start a TR3, by yourself, in a
parking lot covered with ice!  That was when I decided that an alternator
was an absolute must-have.  (But I did get it started and drove it home.)

My boss at the time drove an Opel GT and bragged to me more than once that
anything my TR could do, his Opel could do better.  So one night when snow
was predicted, I invited him back to my place for a beer after work.  As
predicted, we had about 3" of fresh snow on the ground, and being after
midnite the snow plows had not been around yet.  Of course I deliberately
took the route that led up a steep hill and the TR walked right up it ... 
Don never did make it to my place and he never said another word about how
great his Opel was!

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 22:45:20 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac33gbYBbPQEwuY4TLCdHuB87x5+VgADplEg
Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The PO of my TR3B owned it for over 20 years in New England and it was his
daily driver.  He told stories of driving to his job at IBM, strict dress
code, in a blue suit and tie and how long it took to clean up after he
arrived.

I had one as a primary driver for a year in Virginia, rainy inside and out,
demisters were a joke.  Forget the wipers.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 8:47 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains

While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the
worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built
ones. 
It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back
then throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest.
I can't
imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter.

Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the
smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt.  Imagine 3 day white
out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds!
Anyone have these type of experiences? 
LOL  

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 22:10:54 2013
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	Jan 2013 05:01:07 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Skip Gurnee'" <skip47@gbis.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 21:01:06 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac33auQnuN/OemrzQ+GL3i1uFh7fxgAI/VDQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on
> various penetrating oils.

That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article.

> Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!

Results may vary.  I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not
work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me.  But I don't use it on
"scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque it
takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off.
There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for
PBB first.

Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first.
You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better.  In severe
cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a
TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the
penetration).  Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I
can't imagine that soaking helps much with it.

PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me?

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 20 22:28:40 2013
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References: <C225CEAA05A74B83B2C742ADEB1E512B@ownerPC>
	<FC.0B.01431.29BCCF05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:24:26 +0200
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

X2 on PB Blaster.

The stuff works the best of all the things I've tried over the years.
For the toughest jobs repeated applications and soak times over a
month can help, as Randall notes.  A can lasts a couple of years in my
garage -- good value, and no point in scrimping on home-brew.

Don

On 1/21/13, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on
>> various penetrating oils.
>
> That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article.
>
>> Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
>
> Results may vary.  I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not
> work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me.  But I don't use it on
> "scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque
> it
> takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off.
> There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for
> PBB first.
>
> Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first.
> You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better.  In severe
> cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a
> TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the
> penetration).  Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I
> can't imagine that soaking helps much with it.
>
> PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me?
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 06:01:58 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants
from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too much for
a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm
animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is
such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and
others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones.
I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone
seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car
suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA.


   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23
0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc

     Bill in Tehachapi

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 07:47:34 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:42:54 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Winter Driving
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References: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:28:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Delight!!! I'm not the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers have
been staying up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra
wide in all sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's teeth'
waistband clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has come
adrift under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout round
the back of the head for my trouble.
Might even wear them with shorts next
year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." I'm
comfortable and that's all that matters.

Jonmac     
________________________________
 From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, 21 January 2013, 14:01
Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders


>     I've reached that point in life
where I need suspenders to keep my pants
>from sagging. I wear flannel lined
pants in the winters and it is too much for
>a belt to handle. I've been
wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm
>animals on them (from
Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is
>such a thing as less
dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and
>others that looked
like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones.
>I finally bought
a set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone
>seems to like them
and think that they fit me. If you search for "car
>suspenders" on Ebay they
should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA.
>
>
> 
>http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23
>0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc
>
>     Bill in
Tehachapi
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 08:38:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:33:37 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
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If they have British cars on them, you have to call them "braces".

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:01:58 AM
> Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders
> I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my
> pants
> from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too
> much for
> a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders
> with farm
> animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if
> there is
> such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on
> them and
> others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull &
> crossbones.
> I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and
> everyone
> seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car
> suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23
> 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc
> 
> Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 08:39:38 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:35:24 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Driving
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Winter driving indeed, Joe.  It looks like a complete white-out.   :-)


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth@ties2.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:42:54 AM
> Subject: [TR] Winter Driving
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:57:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

you need a pair like red green wears.
of course you could go for the "Florida"
look with no suspenders
 
Frank

From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 6:01 AM
Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders

    I've reached that point in life
where I need suspenders to keep my pants
from sagging. I wear flannel lined
pants in the winters and it is too much for
a belt to handle. I've been
wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm
animals on them (from
Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is
such a thing as less
dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and
others that looked
like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones.
I finally bought a
set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone
seems to like them
and think that they fit me. If you search for "car
suspenders" on Ebay they
should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA.


 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23
0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc

    Bill in Tehachapi
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 09:18:50 2013
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I liked using the Kroil products, but lack of local availability turned me
off, whereas I can get PB Blaster anywhere, including the nearest Walmart. PBB
works very well for me; if it doesn't, next step is a propane torch, then the
Sawz-All (or other implement of power cutting ability)!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>


X2 on PB Blaster....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 09:25:42 2013
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338e50fd699b416e
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have not yet made the conversion to suspenders to hold up my troosers but 
I do use a pair to keep my kilt in position when I am wearing my doublet.  
The doublet positions the kilt belt too high and it tends to work the kilt 
down to where it reaches below the knees and that is just not proper.

The sporan is no help at all.

Dave

In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:29:05 AM Central Standard Time, 
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Delight!!! I'm not the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers 
> have
> been staying up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra
> wide in all sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's 
> teeth'
> waistband clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has 
> come
> adrift under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout 
> round
> the back of the head for my trouble.
> Might even wear them with shorts next
> year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." 
> I'm
> comfortable and that's all that matters.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 11:19:04 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
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What?  Duct Tape suspenders?

In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> you need a pair like red green wears.
> of course you could go for the "Florida"
> look with no suspenders

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com>
	<002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:31:23 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac32OHVKKaosp3krTqOYR/qhnUJeEAAQPdgAAF6UE7A=
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side
screens on eBay.  I have a set of these that came with my car, but never
figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth
installing at all.  Has anyone had any experience with these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1423.l2649 

Thanks,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

My approach was bit different -  I used the router attachment on my Dremel
to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and
bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material
together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just
punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a
sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  
> However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's 
> very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find 
> simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
> Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the 
> thread through?  Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical 
> frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece is also very 
> thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the 
> plexiglass.
>
>
> Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves 
> and how they handled this.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:34:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

you say that like there is something wrong !!
 

From: "Dave1massey@cs.com"
<Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 21,
2013 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders

What?  Duct Tape
suspenders?

In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time,
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> you need a pair like red green wears.
> of
course you could go for the "Florida"
> look with no suspenders

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:36:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave
i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it.
is it like a man
dress?
 
:-)
 
Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American

From:
"Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders

I
have not yet made the conversion to suspenders to hold up my troosers but 
I
do use a pair to keep my kilt in position when I am wearing my doublet.  
The
doublet positions the kilt belt too high and it tends to work the kilt 
down
to where it reaches below the knees and that is just not proper.

The sporan
is no help at all.

Dave

In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:29:05 AM Central
Standard Time, 
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Delight!!! I'm not
the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers 
> have
> been staying
up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra
> wide in all
sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's 
> teeth'
> waistband
clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has 
> come
> adrift
under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout 
> round
>
the back of the head for my trouble.
> Might even wear them with shorts next
>
year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." 
>
I'm
> comfortable and that's all that matters.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 10:04:30 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
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To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Winter Driving
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> I bought my first TR3 the year I graduated from college. I drove it all
winter long, commuting to my job but also driving home for the holidays from
Minneapolis to southwestern Minnesota.

> While at home, the temp nose-dived to twenty below. There was a New Year's
Eve party that I was committed to attending and of course, the TR was frozen
solid. A charcoal fire in a garbage

> can lid for four hours thawed it out enough to turn over, and I made the
party on time. Even had time to stop in New Ulm and pick up a college buddy
and several bottles of wine for the party.

> But that was the last winter I had the car. In the spring the choice was
keep the car or marry the gal that hosted the party, I couldn't afford both,
so I went with, and still have the party host.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 10:04:58 2013
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From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster@hp.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Thread-Index: AQHN99/+LE8Q3NUErkKZaXZv/ukJsJhT6ZyAgAAXkSA=
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:59:09 +0000
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	<1709124542.65191.1358782417943.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
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That would be bracers. Women wear suspenders.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of pethier@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 10:34 AM
To: William Brewer
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders

If they have British cars on them, you have to call them "braces".

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:01:58 AM
> Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders
> I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my
> pants from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it
> is too much for a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny
> red suspenders with farm animals on them (from Germany), but wanted
> something less dorky, if there is such a thing as less dorky than
> suspenders. I found some with fish on them and others that looked like
> big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones.
> I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and
> everyone seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search
> for "car suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made
> in USA.
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-
> USA-/23 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc
>
> Bill in Tehachapi

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster@hp.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 10:26:23 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 12:20:42 -0500 (EST)
To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Are there any other kind?
;-)

In a message dated 1/21/2013 10:34:23 AM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> you say that like there is something wrong !!
>   
>  
> 
> 
> From: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:19 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
> 
> 
> What?  Duct Tape suspenders?
> 
> In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time, 
> yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> >you need a pair like red green wears.
> >of course you could go for the "Florida"
> >look with no suspenders

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 10:33:24 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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It is called a "Kilt" because many have been "Kilt" for calling it a dress.

;-)

In a message dated 1/21/2013 10:36:27 AM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> Dave
>  i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it.
>  is it like a man dress?
>   
>  :-)
>   
>  Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 11:21:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:16:30 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net
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William Brewer wrote:

> I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants
from sagging.

 

  One of the original members of our 20 year old car club (The Brits of the
Hudson) has

been wearing Union Jack suspenders for as long as I've known him.  Available
on Amazon

for $11.95 (NFI).

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 11:35:03 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:29:41 -0800
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Just for a different looking pair of suspenders, those who receive The
Vintage Triumph (VTR) magazine can see a pair of Triumph suspenders in the
Triumphest display photo in the upper right corner on page 25 of the
August/September 2012 issue.  These were worn by one of our club members for
many years until he donated them "for display purposes only".  Dunno where
he got them, but I do know it was many years ago.

Dennis

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 11:53:42 2013
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From: "Peter Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
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	<39E86FA55F0C46F2AAC76BCD23719D79@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:48:56 -0500
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We had our TR3 in Minot ND while stationed there.  Had a very small block 
heater that allowed me two engine turnovers as long as the clutch was in. 
If it didn't start on the two turns, it wasn't going to start until 
afternoon.  Just like you describe, the snow comes in the car, settles on 
the seat, and thaws when you sit on it.  After the third day of winter the 
seat becomes a block of ice.  Although we only lived about 10 minutes from 
work, I always had a wet seat by the time I got there.  Carried a towel in 
the car to sit on.  Kept me dry and worked like a champ.

Also used the car for varmit hunting in the winter.  Had to wear full 
outdoor gear when going down the highway.  The "heater" kept the windshield 
clear once it got going and after you scraped the inside and outside glass 
first.  Lots of great stories from that car - always an adventure when we 
drove it.  Still have a TR although the one in Minot made it to Guam, but 
became too rusted to return home.  The cross country trip to California is 
another story, but I made it without a breakdown.
Pete


> While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the 
> worn
> ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built 
> ones.
> It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back 
> then
> throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest.
> I can't
> imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest 
> winter.
> Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the
> smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt.  Imagine 3 day 
> white
> out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds!
> Anyone have these type of experiences?
> LOL

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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
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Subject: [TR] KASTNER CUP 2013     ROAD AMERICA    SEPTEMBER
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 Dave Massey....you have given me an idea with your comments on the kilts.

I know that several clubs are planning to attend the Kastner Cup.

Could you be induced to bring your bagpipes? It could be a hoot at THE
GATHERING ON THE GREEN.

Have your agent contact my people. Thanks!



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4@cs.com

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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "'Wbeech'" <wbeech@flash.net>,	<kinderlehrer@comcast.net>,
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com>
	<002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net>
	<887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:38:41 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac32OHVKKaosp3krTqOYR/qhnUJeEAAQPdgAAF6UE7AACC9TQA==
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, I have a set of those on my car. They work great. The soft lower part
slides into a channel at the bottom of the aluminum frame. You need to put
lift-a-dot fasteners along to bottom of that lower part so you can snap them
to the outside of the door. 

Bought them in 1970 and used them ever since then. When I finished the
restoration last year, I mounted a set of "real" ones that I bought for a
king's ransom ..... didn't fit worth a darn, weren't even close (one was too
high and too far forward, the other was too low and too far back). I drug
these old ones out, cleaned them up, did a little adjusting and they work
like a charm. 

Although these work fine, I would like to get the "real" ones to fit for
esthetic purposes so if anyone can give me some hints on how to do the
adjusting without stripping them down to bare frames it would be greatly
appreciated. In the meantime I'll keep the softsiders in the trunk wherever
I go.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 11:31 AM
To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side
screens on eBay.  I have a set of these that came with my car, but never
figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth
installing at all.  Has anyone had any experience with these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1423.l2649 

Thanks,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

My approach was bit different -  I used the router attachment on my Dremel
to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and
bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material
together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just
punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a
sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  
> However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's 
> very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find 
> simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
> Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the 
> thread through?  Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical 
> frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece is also very 
> thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the 
> plexiglass.
>
>
> Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves 
> and how they handled this.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 14:18:19 2013
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From: Loumetelko@aol.com
Full-name: Loumetelko
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:10:16 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains
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While  working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the  
worn
ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built  
ones.
 


 
 
No matter if we are talking about drafty side curtains or leaking bodily  
fluids or cold natured starting or total lack of safety features just 
remember  that in the 50s these cars were state of the art and therein lies the  
charm!
 
During my wife's first ride in my freshly restored 54 TR2 we were  
inadvertently caught in a downpour and she started screaming "turn on the  wipers".  
Those of you familiar with the one speed versions know the value  of Rain-X 
over the wipers!  She was stunned when I handed her a towel to  wipe the 
inside of the windscreen!  We both emerged with wet lower  pant legs.  Now 
some 35,000 miles later (she has been along for about 30 of  those) we follow a 
road just to see where it ends.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana    

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 14:49:18 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:43:51 -0500
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& 
letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on 
the backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really 
satisfied with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to 
simply lift the badge off the body.
Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about 
the consequences later.
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 14:50:00 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, "dave1massey@cs.com" <dave1massey@cs.com>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:43:57 -0500
References: <211eb.1cdd1fd2.3e2ec39b@cs.com>,
	<1358786186.11294.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[6A86E640:01CDF820]
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Now darn it, who is going to clean up the coffee off my computer screen !

I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :)

Sorry Dave,
Marty


> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:36:26 -0800
> From: yellowtr3@yahoo.com
> To: Dave1massey@cs.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
>
> Dave
> i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it.
> is it like a man
> dress?
>
> :-)
>
> Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 15:04:47 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:57:13 -0500 (EST)
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Now you sound like my wife.

In a message dated 1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty@hotmail.com writes: 
> I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 14:20:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

sounding like the wife and looking like a monty python wife.....not the same
!!!
 

From: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] British Car Suspenders

Now you sound like my wife.

In a message dated
1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty@hotmail.com writes: 
> I
don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :)

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 15:28:31 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Wbeech'" <wbeech@flash.net>, <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>,
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com>
	<002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net>
	<887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:24:07 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIdfqpp57HLZGog+2/fER40BmM/BgLqn6gHAWt8WckCQed1/ZeAjYlQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill:  these are AMCO sidescreens - came out for a limited time and are
quite valuable (I see the set sold for $400 on eBay).

My car had the problem of the weight of "traditional" sidescreens causing
the door to sag so it was difficult to close from inside.  I found a pair of
AMCO sidescreens and refurbished them.  There is an individual on this
distribution who was going to do it for me, but after 5 years I ended up
doing it myself (no hard feelings).  They were easy to install and I love
them.

If you don't want yours, I'll buy 'em!

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 11:31 AM
To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side
screens on eBay.  I have a set of these that came with my car, but never
figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth
installing at all.  Has anyone had any experience with these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m1423.l2649 

Thanks,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

My approach was bit different -  I used the router attachment on my Dremel
to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and
bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material
together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build

I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just
punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a
sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well.  
> However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window.  It's 
> very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find 
> simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim.
> Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the 
> thread through?  Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical 
> frame to pull it tight?  The forward vertical frame piece is also very 
> thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the 
> plexiglass.
>
>
> Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves 
> and how they handled this.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 15:36:56 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <Loumetelko@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <310ce.5143fee2.3e2f08b8@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:29:51 -0500
Thread-Index: AQEz5i/dEM4XvO+5bD9cUukLDNbuqpmIf+6w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Following a road to see where it goes is known as a "stooge".  We have used
the term in our family for years and with time have accepted certain
conditions:  a stooge does not allow maps nor GPS devices, it is best done
in a TR, and when someone drives past you and says, "she's a beauty", you
need to reply "I know, and we 've been married for 20 years!"

Guaranteed to secure another 20 !

Oh, and by the way, it appears the word "stooge" originated in WW2 with the
RAF, where a stooge was where a plane took off with no particular
destination in mind, other than to go looking for trouble.  In my father's
case, it was patrolling the English channel looking for German boats.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:10 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains

While  working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the
worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built
ones.
 


 
 
No matter if we are talking about drafty side curtains or leaking bodily
fluids or cold natured starting or total lack of safety features just
remember  that in the 50s these cars were state of the art and therein lies
the charm!
 
During my wife's first ride in my freshly restored 54 TR2 we were
inadvertently caught in a downpour and she started screaming "turn on the
wipers".  
Those of you familiar with the one speed versions know the value  of Rain-X
over the wipers!  She was stunned when I handed her a towel to  wipe the
inside of the windscreen!  We both emerged with wet lower  pant legs.  Now
some 35,000 miles later (she has been along for about 30 of  those) we
follow a road just to see where it ends.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana    

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 15:37:58 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:33:38 -0500
Thread-Index: AQFY4VYupgxxn0nMRXky3LxYkb6eFJk+i93Q
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used spring clips but the rattling drove me crazy.  Epoxy did the job for
me.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening

Hello List:
Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (&
letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the
backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied
with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the
badge off the body.
Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the
consequences later.
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 22:47:38 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As the badge is the same shape as the Standard-Triumph 'shell' that appeared
on Triumph Tens, I've used a craft knife + nail scissors to cut a piece of
flat rubber about 1/16th" thick to the outline of the badge. I've then
sandwiched it between panel and the back of the badge. If you then press on
the spring clips, the rubber removes sloppiness and the badge snugs down
sufficiently tightly to prevent water getting under the rubber. Didn't rattle,
didn't get stolen. Worked for me

Jonmac


>________________________________
>
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Sent: Monday, 21 January 2013, 21:43
>Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
>
>Hello List:
>Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges
(& letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the
backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied with
the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the badge off
the body.
>Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry
about the consequences later.
>Thanks for any insights.
>Angelo Graham
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:04:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] winter driving/side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

AAhhhh I loved reading about experiences with triumph winter driving.  Isn't
it something how experiences of discomfort or problem situations end up being
those that we remember and talk about for years!  We never tell stories about
trips in comfortable dry cars with good heat and wipers.lol  
thanks for the
memories.

gary n.

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References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:17:27 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I secured mine using short pieces of rubber tubing - the sort with a tiny
I.D. and a thick wall, may be called vacuum hose.

Most of the letters can be held with one length of tubing (about an inch
long) bent into a U and fit over both pegs.  Some letters/locations worked
better with a pair of 1/4" lengths over the pegs.

The advantage of this method is that the letters can be quicly removed for
polishing and waxing the area.  The front badges are affixed in the usual
manner (would be hard to get to to undo and anyway are easier to wax
around).

Have never had one come loose yet.

Geo



On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 2:43 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>wrote:

> Hello List:
> Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (&
> letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2).

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, "'Angelo Graham'"
	<agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com>
	<032601cdf827$5c7a3be0$156eb3a0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:30:33 -0600
Thread-Index: AQFY4VYupgxxn0nMRXky3LxYkb6eFJk+i93QgAAN3cA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same issue of the movement, worried about the paint, but used a
dab of clear silicone on the back of each post.  Now they are all secure and
would be fairly easy to remove is needed.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:34 PM
To: 'Angelo Graham'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening

I used spring clips but the rattling drove me crazy.  Epoxy did the job for
me.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening

Hello List:
Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (&
letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the
backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied
with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the
badge off the body.
Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the
consequences later.
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 17:10:47 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:05:44 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac34IKOKdTWcj5mKQP68JkJIDn1AkwAD7Xpw
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (&
> letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2).

I believe a TR2 should have only the badge, no letters.  Late TR3s did
sometimes have the Triumph script in the rear, but mine doesn't.

> Anyone use anything else? 

I'm not quite sure where they came from, but I used spring nuts that have a
hex formed into them, so they can be tightened with a nut driver.  Similar
to these
http://goo.gl/LCKNb

To use what appear to be the factory type flat spring nuts, I think you
should support the badge in some fashion and then use a round hollow tool
(perhaps a very small socket) to tap the spring nut down and lock it in
place.  That should provide some spring action to hold the badge securely
against the nose.  The fingers of the spring nut should dig into the post,
so that it won't come apart unless something breaks.  To disassemble, cut
the spring nut with a Dremel cutoff blade.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com>
	<B6.FF.26261.6D7DDF05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:18:52 -0500
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My tr2 had the Triumph badge on the back.  Though not original for it, I
intended to keep it until i realized it was off center by about an inch.

I've had people ask me if i dechromed it...
On Jan 21, 2013 7:06 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (&
> > letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2).
>
> I believe a TR2 should have only the badge, no letters.  Late TR3s did
> sometimes have the Triumph script in the rear, but mine doesn't.
>
> > Anyone use anything else?
>
> I'm not quite sure where they came from, but I used spring nuts that have a
> hex formed into them, so they can be tightened with a nut driver.  Similar
> to these
> http://goo.gl/LCKNb
>
> To use what appear to be the factory type flat spring nuts, I think you
> should support the badge in some fashion and then use a round hollow tool
> (perhaps a very small socket) to tap the spring nut down and lock it in
> place.  That should provide some spring action to hold the badge securely
> against the nose.  The fingers of the spring nut should dig into the post,
> so that it won't come apart unless something breaks.  To disassemble, cut
> the spring nut with a Dremel cutoff blade.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 And now, the Larch.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jan 21, 2013 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders



sounding like the wife and looking like a monty python wife.....not the same
!!!





From: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders


Now you sound like my wife.

In a message dated 1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time,
trmarty@hotmail.com writes:
> I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:14:39 -0600
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] winter driving/side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not all stories about side curtain TRs happen in winter or rain.  Many years
ago, I was driving my TR3 to a new assignment at Davis Monthan Air Force Base
in Tucson.  I stopped overnight in El Paso.  It was springtime...windy.  The
next morning, the inside of the car was covered with sand.  Sand every where!
And I thought I buttoned it up pretty good.

John

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 21, 2013, at 5:04 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote:

> AAhhhh I loved reading about experiences with triumph winter driving.
Isn't
> it something how experiences of discomfort or problem situations end up
being
> those that we remember and talk about for years!  We never tell stories
about
> trips in comfortable dry cars with good heat and wipers.lol
> thanks for the
> memories.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john-marie@sbcglobal.net

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Subject: [TR] Winter driving
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some -20
degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a really
cold start, I thought it might  be better if the engine could spin faster.
So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders. It was
pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in the third
plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was good to
go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do that was in
1966.

 

On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge are the
about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die down
the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid, vibration
free and removable.

 

Pete Fullamm

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 21:45:30 2013
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 04:35:09 +0000 (UTC)
From: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
To: Peter <pfullam@nycap.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter driving
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's terrific! That's a really clever solution to the problem. 
The reason you haven't had to try that again might be related to global warming, or perhaps you got yourself one of those fancy plug-in dip sticks. 
Hey, I've been wanting to communicate with this group for some time and Mark Bradakis just got me dialed in. 
Thanks Mark, 
Dave Hogye 
Santa Cruz 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter" <pfullam@nycap.rr.com> 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15:52 PM 
Subject: [TR] Winter driving 

In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some -20 
degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a really 
cold start, I thought it might be better if the engine could spin faster. 
So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders. It was 
pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in the third 
plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was good to 
go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do that was in 
1966. 



On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge are the 
about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die down 
the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid, vibration 
free and removable. 



Pete Fullamm 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 21 22:32:18 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
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	<3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:55:52 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] winter driving/side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Although my early days of driving were in a mid-sixties Sprite with roll up 
windows, the weather did not probably get in as bad as it did in a TR3, but 
I remember mornings with a good dusting of snow on the seats.  I also 
remember the marginal batteries and starters, when it got really cold you 
did have to go out and start it every couple of hours or it might be a lost 
cause.  The more fun aspects were the snow being the great equalizer, I 
remember one snow night pulling up beside a new red Porsche 911 in my old 
red Sprite.  The light turned green and we both slid around trying to get 
some traction and accelerate as best we could, he beat me to the next light, 
but I made it a good race.

Later when I was out of college and had a real job I had a TR4A that I still 
used as a daily driver, amazing what being able to afford a fresh battery, 
rebuilding the carbs, and having everything else in good order will do, that 
car would start on one or two tries, even after being out all night in 
sub-zero (Fahrenheit) temps.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

--------------------------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 17:12:09 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 17:02:59 -0700
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter driving
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When my wife and I first started dating here in Colorado we used to  
take my first TR6 skiing. We'd unzip the back window put the 2 sets of  
skis in and down into the passenger footwell. Ski boots in the boot  
and we were off. It was a decent car in the snow surprisingly to me.  
We skied this way for a couple years. One advantage was you could wear  
all your ski gear going up the mountain and coming back since the  
heater was NOT going to make you too hot, especially coming back.  
Changing clothes was not needed.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Jan 21, 2013, at 9:35 PM, davehogye wrote:

> That's terrific! That's a really clever solution to the problem.
> The reason you haven't had to try that again might be related to  
> global warming, or perhaps you got yourself one of those fancy plug- 
> in dip sticks.
> Hey, I've been wanting to communicate with this group for some time  
> and Mark Bradakis just got me dialed in.
> Thanks Mark,
> Dave Hogye
> Santa Cruz
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter" <pfullam@nycap.rr.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15:52 PM
> Subject: [TR] Winter driving
>
> In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some  
> -20
> degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a  
> really
> cold start, I thought it might be better if the engine could spin  
> faster.
> So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders.  
> It was
> pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in  
> the third
> plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was  
> good to
> go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do  
> that was in
> 1966.
>
>
>
> On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge  
> are the
> about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die  
> down
> the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid,  
> vibration
> free and removable.
>
>
>
> Pete Fullamm
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 18:30:52 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 17:26:20 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac35CKTcbGSZIlN/R5GvXmEaL/UG4A==
Content-Language: en-us
	FILETIME=[AB42F8C0:01CDF908]
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 19:23:17 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY173-DS2543C0CB4D17A14C81023BC6150@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 20:18:35 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac35CKTcbGSZIlN/R5GvXmEaL/UG4AABmO4g
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here what the Bentley's manual has:
RATIOS
		Gearbox Overall
Top w/OD	0.82		3.03
Fourth 	1.00 	3.70
Third 	1.325 	4.90
Second 	2.00 	7.40
First 	3.38 	12.50
Reverse 	4.28 	15.80 

I suspect that the 'Overall' number is dictated by the diff ratio, either
3.7 or 4.1 W/OD installed 

Bill





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 7:26 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 19:45:52 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 02:37:24 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

B 

Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should find
one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so proved
to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth
Belvedere : no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary.

B 

Ed Woods



----- Original Message -----




From: "Jonas Payne" < jagmog @ hotmail .com>
To: triumphs@ autox .team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? B The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@ autox .team.net **

Archive: http:// www .team.net/archive
Unsubscribe /Manage: http:// autox
.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1@comcast.net

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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <fogbro1@comcast.net>
References: <BAY173-DS2543C0CB4D17A14C81023BC6150@phx.gbl>
	<467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wowb&b&b&food for thought





MGbs and TR4bs have them and donbt fail to feel too sporty, My XK 150 on
the other hand is another animal altogether, but certainly better than the
contemporary American Iron.



Morgans use the same burman box that TRbs do and there is really no
comparison between the two.  Frankly, the Morgan feels more precise than the
TR on any but the roughest surfaces.



Healey uses a wormgear too, but there is no comparison between that and a TR
either, Healey goes (went) down the road with great feel and response.



The TR is like Mr. Toads Wild Ride.   Feels more like a MGTC than competition
for an MGA .  Would rather push the TR than drive an MG, but admittedly, the
steering is crude.



Jonas Payne

PBR Consulting

702-882-6711



From: fogbro1@comcast.net [mailto:fogbro1@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 6:37 PM
To: Jonas Payne
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR3 Rack and Pinion



List,



Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should find
one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so proved
to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth
Belvedere: no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary.



Ed Woods

  _____

From: "Jonas Payne" <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 22 20:47:42 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:41:40 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac35CKTcbGSZIlN/R5GvXmEaL/UG4AADgXUA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
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> Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

>From Practical Hints 4th ed:

1st	 3.38
2nd	 2.00
2nd OD 1.64
3rd	 1.325
3rd OD 1.09
4th	 1.00
4th OD 0.82

> Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure 
> that the performance is close (or improved).

My opinion, the stock 1st gear is too low for good performance.  I prefer
the later 3.14 ratio (which is what I have in my TR3).

> Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion 
> conversion?  The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty 
> handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done.

Bob Schaller sketched a home-brew conversion in "More BS about TRs".

Personally, I don't see the point.  The stock steering can be made to work
quite well and the conversions lose at least part of the function of the
control head (which seems like part of the charm of the car, to me).  But
then, I would never trade my overdrive for a mere 5 speed either!

> Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more 
> comfortable touring car.

I drive mine practically every day, put over 200,000 miles on the previous
TR3A (before it got wrecked).  IMO the best improvements for a touring car
would be wider wheels (so you can use modern tires that both grip and ride
better) and putting UHMW (or Teflon) between the rear spring leaves.  Add an
electric fan (for stop and go traffic) and you have a car that you can drive
anywhere.

One of my plans for after I retire is to drive what remains of Route 66 from
LA to Chicago in my Tr3.  Then maybe US 60 on the way back.  Although it has
no trouble at all running at 70-80 mph on the Interstate, I find the ride
much more enjoyable at 60 with frequent stops.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:31:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jonas
made my own T5 conversion and never regretted.
works great, best upgrade
i did
Frank


________________________________
From: Jonas Payne
<jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, January 22,
2013 5:26 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the
gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want
to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to
weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and
I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my
big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas
Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 04:58:58 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY173-DS2543C0CB4D17A14C81023BC6150@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 06:49:57 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJTuvDajb+3+iyB+SWEfGYW249vtpdLR7WA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My brother installed the rack & pinion kit on a TR3A and the difference was
unimaginable. With the kit, you could actually steer the car, effort was
half of what it was and you could keep it straight on the road without
exercising your wrists all the time. Of course, the original steering gear
could have been well wiped out and a new sector, worm and bushings could
have solved the problems. The only issue that I noticed was that the new tie
rod ends seemed to be at an extreme downward angle to meet the steering
arms. Also, the regular fan has to be ditched for an electric fan in order
to free up sufficient room for the rack. I can't remember who sold the kit
but the end result was that the car was much more pleasant to drive. 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 06:45:51 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <fogbro1@comcast.net>, "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>
References: <BAY173-DS2543C0CB4D17A14C81023BC6150@phx.gbl>
	<467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I seem to remember a conversation on this page a couple of years ago:  what
are the best things you can do to a TR3?  As I remember it, they were (a)
overdrive, and (b) rack and pinion.

I have both - one car with and one without.  I'd recommend the conversion.
I installed a bolt-on model which was easy to work with.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 9:37 PM
To: Jonas Payne
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion

List,

B 

Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should
find one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so
proved to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth
Belvedere : no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary.

B 

Ed Woods



----- Original Message -----




From: "Jonas Payne" < jagmog @ hotmail .com>
To: triumphs@ autox .team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?

Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
performance is close (or improved).

Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? B The kits
seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
others have done.

Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
touring car.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@ autox .team.net **

Archive: http:// www .team.net/archive
Unsubscribe /Manage: http:// autox
.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1@comcast.net

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 09:29:08 -0500
References: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] winter driving/side curtains
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I did my graduate work at Univ of Pittsburgh and at the time I had a 58 MGA.
The first year I drove an over an hour each way (we were living with my
in-laws to save money) driving up and down the Western Penn hills to to & from
the University.  I never got stuck (I had been a USAF pilot & used a lot of
energy management skills).  But I did carry "single loop" plastic chains just
in case.  I made a few mods to my side curtains to hold them relatively tight
to the windscreen at speed.  In addition I always wore my USAF Survival parka
and heavy gloves during the winter.  The "heater" kind of kept my toes from
from frostbite inside my USAF jump-boots and heavy socks.

The last three years we lived in Pittsburgh and my major challenge was getting
up the rather steep hill to our home on snowy nights.  The streets were brick
and worn rather smooth from decades of use.  Energy management was tough
because I have to a 90 degree turn on the steep hill - so I employed the
single loop chains many nights and continued to wear my survival parka.  :-)

Ah, those are the days.  :-)

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:39:44 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

So Frank,
     How does someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion?
Sounds pretty daunting to me. Can you fill us in?
     About 10 years ago I
wrote up how to weld in TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in
cyberspace. Maybe you can do the same with you T5 conversion.
     Here is a
link to my floor replacement write-up.


   
http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf

     My
TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I think
that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed.

     -Bill in Tehachapi
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>,
"triumphs@autox.team.net"
    <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3
Gear Ratios
Message-ID:
   
<1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Jonas
made my own T5 conversion and never
regretted.
works great, best upgrade
i did
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 14:11:43 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:06:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility
that I had equipped with CNC machining centers.
Being an engineer Ibm always
up for a challenge.
B 
The biggest challenge was the bell housing.
B 
My first
thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine
the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing. 
Thatbs what I really
wanted to do.
But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and
at a reasonable cost.
B 
Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph
to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a little
specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios.
That too
was getting expensive.
B 
Then my brother in law in Australia found a guy who
makes conversions for all kinds of cars and transmissions. So I reluctantly
sucked it up and bought one. Well 2. One for me and one for my BBF.
It
wasnbt how I wanted to do it, but $$ rule.
B 
I did machine:
custom pilot
bushing
custom bracket to take the triumph standard slave cylinder.
Custom
slave cylinder push bar.
little machining on the bell housing to use the
standard Toyota thrust bearing fork.
Machine flywheel to accept Toyota
pressure plate and clutch plate.
Modify the prop shaft so its triumph one end
and Toyota the other.
B 
And hence I had kinda made my own kit.
B 
Ibm
willing to help friends who want to try their hand at it; I still have the cad
drawings of the parts.
Photographs also.
This list I consider friends for all
the help I get here.
B 
But I donbt want to post on the web as an alternate
to Hermanbs kit. Herman is a fellow club member and does this as a source of
income. So I do not want to cut him out of his investment. Hebs a fine
fellow too.
B 
I like the 5 speed. Itbs easy to shift into and rarely has
problems. You can hardly tell itbs not standard as I used the TR3 slave
cylinder.
And if the 5 speed dies they are replaceable at about 250.00 a time.
B 
your not a million miles from me and one of these days we need to find a
1/2 point and share some refreshment, and show off my trans.
B 
Frank

From:
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: "yellowtr3@yahoo.com" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23,
2013 11:39 AM
Subject: Your own T5 Conversion


So Frank,
B B B B  How does
someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion? Sounds pretty daunting to
me. Can you fill us in?
B B B B  About 10 years ago I wrote up how to weld in
TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in cyberspace. Maybe you
can do the same with you T5 conversion.
B B B B  Here is a link to my floor
replacement write-up.


B B B 
http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf

B B B B 
My TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I think
that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed.

B B B B  -Bill in Tehachapi
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>,
"triumphs@autox.team.net"
B B B  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR3 Gear Ratios
Message-ID:
B B B 
<1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Jonas
made my own T5 conversion and never
regretted.
works great, best upgrade
i did
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 14:58:47 2013
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References: <1358969984.12099.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:54:17 -0800
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a guy who sells a T5 to Triumph ki hee in the US:

http://www.dupontmachining.com/

I considered doing but could not get the ratios I wanted for racing.

On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 1:06 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility
> that I had equipped with CNC machining centers.
> Being an engineer Ib m always
> up for a challenge.
> B
> The biggest challenge was the bell housing.
> B
> My first
> thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and
> machine
> the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing.
> Thatb s what I really
> wanted to do.
> But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and
> at a reasonable cost.
> B
> Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph
> to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a
> little
> specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios.
> That too
> was getting expensive.
> B
> Then my brother in law in Australia found a guy who
> makes conversions for all kinds of cars and transmissions. So I reluctantly
> sucked it up and bought one. Well 2. One for me and one for my BBF.
> It
> wasnb t how I wanted to do it, but $$ rule.
> B
> I did machine:
> custom pilot
> bushing
> custom bracket to take the triumph standard slave cylinder.
> Custom
> slave cylinder push bar.
> little machining on the bell housing to use the
> standard Toyota thrust bearing fork.
> Machine flywheel to accept Toyota
> pressure plate and clutch plate.
> Modify the prop shaft so its triumph one end
> and Toyota the other.
> B
> And hence I had kinda made my own kit.
> B
> Ib m
> willing to help friends who want to try their hand at it; I still have the
> cad
> drawings of the parts.
> Photographs also.
> This list I consider friends for all
> the help I get here.
> B
> But I donb t want to post on the web as an alternate
> to Hermanb s kit. Herman is a fellow club member and does this as a source
> of
> income. So I do not want to cut him out of his investment. Heb s a fine
> fellow too.
> B
> I like the 5 speed. Itb s easy to shift into and rarely has
> problems. You can hardly tell itb s not standard as I used the TR3 slave
> cylinder.
> And if the 5 speed dies they are replaceable at about 250.00 a time.
> B
> your not a million miles from me and one of these days we need to find a
> 1/2 point and share some refreshment, and show off my trans.
> B
> Frank
>
> From:
> William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Cc: "yellowtr3@yahoo.com" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23,
> 2013 11:39 AM
> Subject: Your own T5 Conversion
>
>
> So Frank,
> B B B B  How does
> someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion? Sounds pretty daunting
> to
> me. Can you fill us in?
> B B B B  About 10 years ago I wrote up how to weld in
> TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in cyberspace. Maybe you
> can do the same with you T5 conversion.
> B B B B  Here is a link to my floor
> replacement write-up.
>
>
> B B B
> http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf
>
> B B B B
> My TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I
> think
> that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed.
>
> B B B B  -Bill in Tehachapi
> From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
> To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>,
> "triumphs@autox.team.net"
> B B B  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> TR3 Gear Ratios
> Message-ID:
> B B B
> <1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type:
> text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Jonas
> made my own T5 conversion and never
> regretted.
> works great, best upgrade
> i did
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:17:00 -0500
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, 'William Brewer'
	<wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,  'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Frank:

We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing.
The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they
are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what
comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a
large house.

That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for
making a casting mould.

Mark
1972 TR6



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: January-23-13 4:06 PM
To: William Brewer; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility
that I had equipped with CNC machining centers.
Being an engineer Ibm always
up for a challenge.
B
The biggest challenge was the bell housing.
B
My first
thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine
the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing.
Thatbs what I really
wanted to do.
But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and
at a reasonable cost.
B
Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph
to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a little
specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios.
That too
was getting expensive.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 14:57:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "mhooper@indiefilmnet.com" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, 'William
	Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

wow
i have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the model in layers of
some kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser light.
they where pretty
crude and very fragile.
only seen video of the latest stuff.
do you have
access to one?
i may still have the layout for my original model that i was
going to machine out of the "lump"
like any technology though im sure its big
$$.
my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4 years ago.
 
 Frank

From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher'
<yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject:
RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

Hi Frank:

We're getting to the point where a
3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers were using a
flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now and not
suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next years. I
read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. 

That said, I
think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for making a
casting mould.

Mark
1972 TR6



-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: January-23-13 4:06 PM
To: William Brewer;
Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

Hey BillFor the last 15
years I have been running a manufacturing facility
that I had equipped with
CNC machining centers.
Being an engineer Ibm always
up for a challenge.
B 
The
biggest challenge was the bell housing.
B 
My first
thought with the Toyota
trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine
the heck out of it till
I had a nice bell housing. 
Thatbs what I really
wanted to do.
But I had some
trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and
at a reasonable cost.
B
Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph
to a Toyota and then
making a casting. I was going to get help from a little
specialty company here
in los angeles called something like Barrios.
That too
was getting expensive.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 17:55:25 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:50:33 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
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> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing.

We're already there.  I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal:
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog
"Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys."

All it takes is money at the moment.  But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance.  Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing).  And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear.

Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types <g>

--- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 18:01:06 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:56:42 -0500
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing.

We're already there.  I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal:
http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog
"Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys."

All it takes is money at the moment.  But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance.  Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing).  And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear.

Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types <g>

--- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 18:51:12 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:46:39 -0700
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/23/2013 5:50 PM, Randall wrote:
>> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing.
> We're already there.  I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal:
> http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog
> "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys."
>
> All it takes is money at the moment.  But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance.  Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing).  And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear.
>
>

Would be a fun toy to have in the shop (although I suspect the purchase 
price would equal a fleet of Maybachs).  But, geez, using a laser "in 
the kilowatt range...?"  With a kilowatt CO2 laser, you could cut a 
bridge in half....


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 19:04:44 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Michael Porter'" <mdporter@dfn.com>, "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<5100927F.8040907@dfn.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:54:46 -0800
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	FILETIME=[CD9D49C0:01CDF9D5]
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I invested in a 3 in one lathe/milling machine about 2 years ago - to date,
I have corrected 1 brake drum and modified an TR O.D. adapter plate.  I
haven't the slightest idea of how to really use the thing.  There is a
reason that there used to be schools, programs and unions to teach people
things.  Apprentice programs take years, and on the job training takes years
more.

A quality machine is a door stop - the knowledge, skill and time to use it
represent the real cost/value. 

I have looked at some plasma cutting tables recently - wonderful machines,
but unfortunately the user interface isn't dumbed down enough for me to be
comfortable with it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 19:20:53 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>,	"'Triumphs'"
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 21:16:10 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone playing in the CNC field, (personal or professional) knows the 3D 
printer world relatively well these days.
Even me..., just finished adding steppers to my own mill/lathe for full 
CNC....now just completed building a dedicated touch screen controller with 
custom keypad to drive it all (electronics design engineer by profession)

The 3D printers best suited to such a project (bell housing) are now being 
purchased by small companies to replace foundry work.
They deposit cintered metal where needed in the layer, and sand around where 
not. Then a high powered laser fuses the layer. The system repeats until the 
whole unit is built up. Cl;ear away the sand and you have a part in hand.

Right now the biggest industry concern,,, yes... people can print a hand 
gun! It's been done, and fired. Some guy on youtube even fires an AR-15 
where he made the main carrier on a 3D printer. Anything made from plastics, 
nylon, poly, etc can be made on a 3D printer. Now, even metals of all types.

metal examples  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88BPmL8cGAo
kind of plasma cutting in reverse...metal deposition 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLndYWw5_y8
Zcorp ..wild all in one pieces 
http://www.zcorp.com/documents/259_650Video.wvx

oh..car related...Even Jay Leno has his own 3D printer. He uses it to proto 
parts ...makes blanks for sand cast molds to make parts he needs not avail 
anywhere else.

nfi...just dreaming what can be done....sooner than you think.  :-)



Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion


>> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell 
>> housing.
>
> We're already there.  I read an article just the other day about a printer 
> that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal:
> http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog
> "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, 
> aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium 
> alloys."
>
> All it takes is money at the moment.  But I expect the prices to continue 
> dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance.  Some home units 
> are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big 
> as a bellhousing).  And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I 
> hear.
>
> Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; 
> I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types <g>
>
> --- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 20:27:09 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All depends on where you live. If there is a Tech Shop near you, check it
out:
http://www.techshop.ws/ I have a friend that teaches at several of them and
he is encouraging me to join, which I probably will as soon as I start my
next major project.
Yes, they have 3D printers as well as machining tools and they are pretty
good at staying up with technology, or so I'm told. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:55 PM
To: 'Michael Porter'; 'Randall'
Cc: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

I invested in a 3 in one lathe/milling machine about 2 years ago - to date,
I have corrected 1 brake drum and modified an TR O.D. adapter plate.  I
haven't the slightest idea of how to really use the thing.  There is a
reason that there used to be schools, programs and unions to teach people
things.  Apprentice programs take years, and on the job training takes years
more.

A quality machine is a door stop - the knowledge, skill and time to use it
represent the real cost/value. 

I have looked at some plasma cutting tables recently - wonderful machines,
but unfortunately the user interface isn't dumbed down enough for me to be
comfortable with it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 21:37:08 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY173-DS2543C0CB4D17A14C81023BC6150@phx.gbl>
	<000001cdf95f$c4957170$4dc05450$@charter.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:28:44 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My brother installed a R & P conversion to his TR3A as well, he did not use 
a kit, but a TR7 rack (which is apparently narrower than a TR4 rack and fits 
better) and some fabricated bolt on attachment brackets a club member made 
up.  I think the biggest issue is figuring out the steering wheel and turn 
signal arrange, since you don't have the stator tube and control head type 
arrengement easily mated to to rack, you have to have some u joints in the 
mix I believe. All statements qualified because I didn't do the work myself 
so specifics are a little fuzzy.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:49 AM
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios

> My brother installed the rack & pinion kit on a TR3A and the difference 
> was
> unimaginable. With the kit, you could actually steer the car, effort was
> half of what it was and you could keep it straight on the road without
> exercising your wrists all the time. Of course, the original steering gear
> could have been well wiped out and a new sector, worm and bushings could
> have solved the problems. The only issue that I noticed was that the new 
> tie
> rod ends seemed to be at an extreme downward angle to meet the steering
> arms. Also, the regular fan has to be ditched for an electric fan in order
> to free up sufficient room for the rack. I can't remember who sold the kit
> but the end result was that the car was much more pleasant to drive.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios
>
> Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were?
>
> Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the
> performance is close (or improved).
>
> Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion?  The kits
> seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what
> others have done.
>
> Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable
> touring car.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:58:00 -0500
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, 'William Brewer'
	<wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,  'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Frank:

Sadly, no access to such fun toys anymore. I am now in digital media, so I've
got auto-stereoscopic 3D flat screens that can show you your bell housing
floating in the air, but it's "look, don't touch"...

As others have noted, printing a real part is still a pretty expensive
sounding procedure.

Cheers,

Mark






From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com]
Sent: January-23-13 5:58 PM
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

wow
i have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the model in layers of some
kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser light.
they where pretty crude and very fragile.
only seen video of the latest stuff.
do you have access to one?
i may still have the layout for my original model that i was going to machine
out of the "lump"
like any technology though im sure its big $$.
my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4 years ago.

 Frank

From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'William Brewer'
<wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

Hi Frank:

We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing.
The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they
are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what
comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a
large house.

That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for
making a casting mould.

Mark
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 24 09:57:23 2013
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	<9e3d18b6.1cdfa4b.be3dc5b6.389e@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 08:52:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "mhooper@indiefilmnet.com" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, 'William
	Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

i too have limited access to the CNC machines now. sad face!
 
i did have my
bell housing drawn in 3D cad and could add texture and color. i then had a
conversion software that turned my cad drawings into G code. but again its all
gone!
 
it will be expensive for some time, but its encouraging that
replacement or modified parts will become more readily available.
 
but
remember that miserable old engineer that sat in the corner growling at you
when new technologies where introduced at work? seems im becoming him!!!
 
i
could still buy an Australian bell housing for around 500.00 ... humbug
 
 
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher'
<yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 7:58 AM
Subject:
RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion


Hi Frank:
 
Sadly, no access to such fun
toys anymore. I am now in digital media, so I've got auto-stereoscopic 3D flat
screens that can show you your bell housing floating in the air, but it's
"look, don't touch"... 
 
As others have noted, printing a real part is still
a pretty expensive sounding procedure. 
 
Cheers,
 
Mark
 
 
 
From:Frank
Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: January-23-13 5:58 PM
To:
mhooper@indiefilmnet.com ; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Your
own T5 Conversion
 
wowi have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the
model in layers of some kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser
light.they where pretty crude and very fragile.only seen video of the latest
stuff.do you have access to one?i may still have the layout for my original
model that i was going to machine out of the "lump"like any technology though
im sure its big $$.my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4
years ago.
 
 Frank
 
From:Mark Hooper < mhooper@indiefilmnet.com >
To: 'Frank
Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>;
'Triumphs' < triumphs@autox.team.net > 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17
PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion

Hi Frank:

We're getting to the
point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers
were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now
and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next
years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. 

That
said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for
making a casting mould.

Mark
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 14:33:24 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 16:21:49 -0500
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Subject: [TR] no news?
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It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list:

-          Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly

-          I have been de-listed

-          No-one is posting

 

Any help would be great.  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 14:48:24 2013
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From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 16:36:00 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Tr-No news is great news
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Larry Schwartz

Sent from my iPhone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 15:03:39 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:59:07 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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The Healey list has been active today.  Maybe you need to buy another 
car ;-)

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 15:04:11 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 15:58:12 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac381CCFSO8jD3T6TMKGOdQCurrjIgABRvLA
Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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Big car show this weekend, record number of British entrants (19) cars &
motorcycles.

I am sure I will break something next week.

All the best,
Bill

 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:22 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] no news?

It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list:

-          Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly

-          I have been de-listed

-          No-one is posting

 

Any help would be great.  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 16:08:29 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:03:24 -0500
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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Ive been heads down working on the 6 and watching Daytona
On Jan 27, 2013 4:59 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Big car show this weekend, record number of British entrants (19) cars &
> motorcycles.
>
> I am sure I will break something next week.
>
> All the best,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:22 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] no news?
>
> It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list:
>
> -          Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly
>
> -          I have been de-listed
>
> -          No-one is posting
>
>
>
> Any help would be great.  Thanks !
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 16:51:42 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net>
	<5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 17:44:39 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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and get into even more trouble with the wife . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis 
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:59 PM 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] no news? 

The Healey list has been active today.  Maybe you need to buy another 
car ;-)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 17:36:40 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>,
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net><5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com>
	<838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:29:31 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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Basecoat/learcoat v. Single Stage
ZDDP
Is all Gas the Same?
Silicone Brake Fluid
Pertronix v. Points
Are no Lead Heads Needed?
Overdrive v. 5 Speed
Wh didn't we get fuel injection over here?
Grose Jets!
:) :) :)

That should stir somebody up...

Anon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 18:52:29 2013
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:40:20 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	<838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun>
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Subject: Re: [TR] no news?
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Greg Lemon wrote:
> Basecoat/Clearcoat v. Single Stage

Oddly enough that traffic on the Healey list I mentioned?  Some of it 
was on this topic.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jan 27 20:55:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:41:04 -0800
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> That should stir somebody up...

You left out how to lubricate trunnions!

Or grunions, which is what my spell checker wants to call them :)

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 06:57:53 2013
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To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tucson
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Hi,

To all the listers in Tucson, I will be there from 1 Feb - 16 Feb for 
the rock and mineral shows.

We will be located at "The Rock Show" on Ajo Way.

The show runs from 9:30 - 5:30 every day and I would sure like to see a 
Triumph after the show and have a beer with a fellow lister.

We will be staying in our Coleman camper near "The Barn".

Would be nice to sit and talk Triumphs after all day talking rocks and 
minerals!

If you need directions/contact info please email me off list.

Really looking forward to getting out of NYS and our sub-zero weather 
for a few weeks!

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:46:59 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub  
freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop  
manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very 
appropriate  winter warning....
 
"The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in 
difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  speed when it 
is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on and 
other accessories in use, the current load will be  considerable.  In cold 
weather.....if there is too great a load.....the  generator may fail to keep 
the battery fully charged"
 
Wow.....you gotta love it!  Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their  
customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at  
the same time in winter or risk a dead battery.....
 
Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough  
to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with 
radio,  lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been 
more  concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was 
distracted  by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen 
and the  top:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 08:10:10 2013
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References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com>
From: Triumph List <lgmtr6@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:59:59 -0500
To: "Chip19474@aol.com" <Chip19474@aol.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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Reminds me of the story of when Sir William Lyons visited the Jaguar dealer in
New York during a very bad winter storm. The sales rep asked why Jaguar
couldn't build a heater sufficient to keep the interior warm. Lyons reply was
why is it that Americans cant learn to dress appropriately for the weather!
Larry Miceli
58 TR3
73 Stag
74 TR6
Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 28, 2013, at 9:46 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:

> Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub
> freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old
workshop
> manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very
> appropriate  winter warning....
>
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  speed
when it
> is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on and
> other accessories in use, the current load will be  considerable.  In cold
> weather.....if there is too great a load.....the  generator may fail to keep
> the battery fully charged"
>
> Wow.....you gotta love it!  Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their
> customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield
wipers at
> the same time in winter or risk a dead battery.....
>
> Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough
> to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with
> radio,  lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have
been
> more  concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was
> distracted  by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the
windscreen
> and the  top:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:12:58 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Chip19474@aol.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>From the TRA Philosophy Statement:

*...We believe that the person inside an automobile who is cold in the
winter and hot in the summer--just like the weather outside--is a more
healthy person, who will no doubt live longer than those who drive along in
a controlled, unnatural environment.*
Geo


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:46 AM, <Chip19474@aol.com> wrote:

> ...Wow.....you gotta love it!  Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their
> customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield
> wipers at
> the same time in winter or risk a dead battery.....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:18:28 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130107 Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/28/13 7:46 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
>   
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  speed when it
> is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on and
> other accessories in use, the current load will be  considerable.  In cold
> weather.....if there is too great a load.....the  generator may fail to keep
> the battery fully charged"
>   
It wasn't just Triumphs.  It appears that the British car industry 
wanted to discourage driving under adverse conditions.

I actually had that happen to me when I was moving from Seattle to the 
Monterey bay area  in an old Land Rover. I was driving the coastal route 
during a major rain storm.  Two speed heater on high speed, wipers 
wiping, headlights on all day while driving. When I went to start the 
Land Rover the next morning there was not enough juice to turn over the 
engine.

Neither my Land Rover nor my TR3 has a generator any more so I can use 
more than two electrical circuits at a time.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 08:43:53 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com>
  <510696C4.6070405@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:38:52 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Heaters were optional extras on many English cars in the 50s and even into
the 60s.  I had at least two Morris Minors that had no heaters and I am
pretty sure my 1960 Ford Popular didn't have one, either.  My 66 Imp had
one, and it was the height of luxury!

MIke

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 9:18 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)

On 1/28/13 7:46 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
>   
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in 
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  
> speed when it is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions 
> with the  lights on and other accessories in use, the current load 
> will be  considerable.  In cold weather.....if there is too great a 
> load.....the  generator may fail to keep the battery fully charged"
>   
It wasn't just Triumphs.  It appears that the British car industry wanted to
discourage driving under adverse conditions.

I actually had that happen to me when I was moving from Seattle to the
Monterey bay area  in an old Land Rover. I was driving the coastal route
during a major rain storm.  Two speed heater on high speed, wipers wiping,
headlights on all day while driving. When I went to start the Land Rover the
next morning there was not enough juice to turn over the engine.

Neither my Land Rover nor my TR3 has a generator any more so I can use more
than two electrical circuits at a time.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr@notwires.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 08:55:45 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Chip19474@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 07:44:05 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac39ZsglCzA430wYTZO3vWaa3S39bgABVieg
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the 
>  car in difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, 

Do you mind sharing where that tidbit was?  ISTR a note in one of the
Triumph manuals that said to use a battery charger after a "winter run", but
I can't seem to find that now either.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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 Randall, you beat me to this question! I don't recall seeing it in any Herald
or Spitfire literature, which undoubtedly explains why, all these years, I've
been able to  run heater, lights, wipers and such with no complaints from any
part of the charging system, all the while blissfully ignorant of the
repercussions! :D



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>

 Do you mind sharing where that tidbit was?  ISTR a note in one of theTriumph
manuals that said to use a battery charger after a "winter run", butI can't
seem to find that now either.-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 09:26:32 2013
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From: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault@bu.edu>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:13:34 -0500
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No News, or What Killed the Dog is a great comedy routine from the turn of
the last century.  One should be able to search it on YouTube if you are
interested.

Ron L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 10:28:38 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:13:24 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac39cbvyHw/fgtk0Tg23U8uCdfaV+AABpysA
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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> which undoubtedly 
> explains why, all these years, I've been able to  run heater, 
> lights, wipers and such with no complaints from any part of 
> the charging system, all the while blissfully ignorant of the 
> repercussions! :D

No doubt.  I wasn't quite so lucky; used to have a dead battery at least
twice a week because the generator just couldn't keep up with a short
commute at night in cold rainy (or snowy) weather.  At first I tried turning
up the control box, but that burned out generators; then I took some
measurements and discovered that the total load (on that TR3A) was well over
20 amps (not counting brake lights) while the stock generator was only rated
at 19 amps.

But part of the problem may have been that I wasn't using "Prince of
Darkness" bulbs (the specs in the manual are remarkably low compared to
US-spec bulbs) and had rewound the heater motor in search of a bit more heat
output.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:39:51 -0600
From: John Innis <jdinnis@gmail.com>
To: Chip19474@aol.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't remember which car it was, but one of the British roadsters
from the 60's had an available "cold weather equipment" package.  One
of the items in that package was a blanket.

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:46 AM,  <Chip19474@aol.com> wrote:
> Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub
> freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop
> manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very
> appropriate  winter warning....
>
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  speed when it
> is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on and
> other accessories in use, the current load will be  considerable.  In cold
> weather.....if there is too great a load.....the  generator may fail to keep
> the battery fully charged"
>
> Wow.....you gotta love it!  Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their
> customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at
> the same time in winter or risk a dead battery.....
>
> Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough
> to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with
> radio,  lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been
> more  concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was
> distracted  by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen
> and the  top:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis@gmail.com



-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 13:31:30 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:17:36 -0500 (EST)
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ha, ha, ha.....I used to carry a blanket or two but mostly to keep my  
girlfriends warm.....ahhhh - those were the days:)
 
 
In a message dated 1/28/2013 12:39:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jdinnis@gmail.com writes:

I can't  remember which car it was, but one of the British roadsters
from the 60's  had an available "cold weather equipment" package.  One
of the items  in that package was a blanket.

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:46 AM,   <Chip19474@aol.com> wrote:
> Suddenly (after 50 degree days last  weekend), we bounced back into sub
> freezing winter with ice, snow, etc  so I decided to pull out some old 
workshop
> manuals and assorted other  Triumph reading and came across this very
> appropriate  winter  warning....
>
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow  through the  car in
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it  unnecessarily, especially at  speed 
when it
> is not  required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on 
 and
> other accessories in use, the current load will be   considerable.  In 
cold
> weather.....if there is too great a  load.....the  generator may fail to 
keep
> the battery fully  charged"
>
> Wow.....you gotta love it!  Imagine Chevrolet or  Ford advising their
> customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan,  headlights and windshield 
wipers at
> the same time in winter or risk a  dead battery.....
>
> Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep  my TR3's battery alive enough
> to keep going back in the 60's during  commutes to college in winter with
> radio,  lights, and fan motor  on at full voltage.....I guess I would 
have been
> more  concerned  if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was
> distracted   by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the 
windscreen
>  and the  top:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley  Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4   CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis@gmail.com



--  
=================================
= Never offend people with style when  you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown   =
=================================

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 14:49:40 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: <v6spitfireguy@cox.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 16:44:14 -0500
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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...you also need a bubble flare at the cyl end and an inverted flare at the 
flex hose connection.

yep..had to make my own for the same reason (NLA) My issues were two fold 
though. On my roto setup I stayed with the rear Spit style connections so 
had to custom bend the cyl hard pipes to come around the back side, rather 
than just down and forward. I welded a tab to the backplate to support the 
interconnect as stock and the flex lines run up like stock Spit lines.


Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <v6spitfireguy@cox.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 3:39 PM
Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed


> I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for 
> those
> who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the
> slave cylinder.  For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel
> to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc.
> As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as 
> these
> appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be 
> used.
> If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application.
> What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight),
> with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave
> cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the
> other.
> It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not
> have on hand any to measure it.
> I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done
> as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one 
> just
> to find out it won't work -
> Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that
> they could measure?
>
> Barry -
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on 
> Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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	<8CFCB9142B107E1-160C-320DB@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:15:30 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is an opportunity to remind all to please let me know if they plan to
be in the Tucson area as there are many LBCs things afoot this time of year.

For example, in reply to Bob L's recent message about a Tucson visit next
month there were 5 British car events during the 16 days he will be in town.
Warmer than Iowa too.

Geo


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:08 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com> wrote:

> Dennis, If you were in Iowa, we'd keep you busy.
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4@cs.com
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dennis culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
> To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jan 28, 2013 10:53 am
> Subject: [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis?
>
>
> List -
>    Looks like I will be here in Indianapolis for at least a week or two.
> I know it's
> winter but is there anything LBC-related happening within an hour or two
> of Indy?
> Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, not in Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 15:34:28 2013
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From: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:28:18 -0500
References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com>
To: v6spitfireguy@cox.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have you tried SpitBits?

It LOOKS like they have what you are looking for.

Very nice people and very knowledgeable (NFA)

Alex


On Jan 28, 2013, at 3:39 pm, v6spitfireguy@cox.net wrote:

> I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for those
> who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the
> slave cylinder.  For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel
> to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc.
> As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as these
> appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be used.
> If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application.
> What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight),
> with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave
> cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the
> other.
> It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not
> have on hand any to measure it.
> I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done
> as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one just
> to find out it won't work -
> Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that
> they could measure?
>
> Barry -
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:25:51 -0600
thread-index: Ac39rs6x9W5H/44vTsiQ7h8bdhPNzQ==
Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:35:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

how are you measuring the slack?
there is a spring at the side that tensions
it, but not until you put the timing cover on.
Frank

From: Wbeech
<wbeech@flash.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013
3:25 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack

What is an acceptable amount of
slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
all the slack on the tensioner
side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:55:20 -0600
thread-index: Ac39sCKWmZrDFpo0RweOj7pGZQYCZQAAl3ZA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Measuring horizontally at the center bolt with the tensioner removed.   
 
There is very little side play, I don't know about any rattle noise as I
have never driven this engine although it seems very sound.  In side of the
cover is sludge/crud free.
Bill

  _____  

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 5:35 PM
To: Wbeech; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack


how are you measuring the slack?
there is a spring at the side that tensions it, but not until you put the
timing cover on.
Frank

From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 3:25 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack


What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:21:38 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Alexander Delis" <ols@bcdef.net>, <v6spitfireguy@cox.net>
References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com>
	<D32541FA-D475-4DC8-8FC0-8411B8BCCE8C@bcdef.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:07:28 -0600
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used a local "clutch and brake" shop to make a couple lines for my car, if 
you have something like that or a shop that specializes in hydraulics, and 
ideally owned and or run by old timers who were around when LBCs were a 
little more current, they should be able to do the appropriate flares if you 
have the hardware, they may have the hardware too.  If you need specific 
hardware these guys can probably help, as well as maybe the usual suspects. 
http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirlingbrakelinenutsandfittings.aspx

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:25:47 2013
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References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:20:48 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill -

I know this is in the manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now.

But my notes from the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4"
is acceptable".

What's a mm?

Geo

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
> all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this
> OK?
> Thanks,
> Bill;

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:52:24 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice>
	<CANzE1bExiYSfn7cvaABWYOJfoj4adyqOsZc56Cx1Xf8vMDJCJg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:38:34 -0600
thread-index: Ac39tn3L4qcdLObcRLuouRl6rCK09QAAi/Bg
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted amount.  Guess
I'll buy a new chain.
 
TRF lists three different qualities of timing chains:

1. AE brand $19.95

2. Replica $9.95

3. Renold $48.93

Or, Moss just lists one at $9.95

Just for the weekend driver, does anyone have any expereince with these? 

 

Thnaks,

Bill

 

  _____  

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:21 PM
To: Wbeech
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack


Bill -
 
I know this is in the manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now.
 
But my notes from the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4"
is acceptable".
 
What's a mm?
 
Geo


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:


What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:54:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:41:28 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill -

Yeah, I really knew what mm meant -- I was just shocked (shocked, I say) to
see that unit of measure used on a TR3 post.

I agree that an inch sounds like too much slack.  What you might also think
about is whether excessive wear on the sprockets is part of the equation.

Geo

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:38 PM, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> **
> mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted amount.  Guess
> I'll buy a new chain.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 17:57:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 19:53:02 -0500
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a 
few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply 
store (Canadian Tire).
Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the 
750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage 
period. This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle 
charger connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside?
Thanks for any leads or brand names.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 18:08:03 2013
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From: KingsCreekTrees@aol.com
Full-name: KingsCreekTrees
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 19:57:53 -0500 (EST)
To: wbeech@flash.net, ahwahneetr@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The timing  chain on my early TR3A began rattling very noisily. When I  
replaced it, I went with the Renold brand. I can't say if it's better than the  
others, though reports suggested it was far superior. Although I have 
driven the  car over a summer since, I don't think that's really enough time to 
say whether  or not it's performance is superior to the others.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 28/01/2013 7:48:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wbeech@flash.net writes:

mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted  amount.  Guess
I'll buy a new chain.

TRF lists three different  qualities of timing chains:

1. AE brand $19.95

2. Replica  $9.95

3. Renold $48.93

Or, Moss just lists one at  $9.95

Just for the weekend driver, does anyone have any expereince with  these? 



Thnaks,

Bill



_____   

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January  28, 2013 6:21 PM
To: Wbeech
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re:  [TR] TR3B timing chain slack


Bill -

I know this is in the  manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now.

But my notes from  the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4"
is  acceptable".

What's a mm?

Geo


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at  4:25 PM, Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:


What is an  acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain?  With
all  the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play.  Is this  
OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 18:23:18 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:14:36 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJHqWg6tFLp+4hNO+bsysHMBiuuipdsJVGg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have several chargers, including a fairly new Sears 10 amp automatic and a
NAPA 3 amp unit that is at least twenty five years old (It still has the
Balkamp name). I try to do a charger rotation, placing the charger on a
vehicle for about a day or so. With 2 Triumphs and about 8 farm tractors
that don't get any use during the winter, this method seems to work for me.
I think I would be a little leery of keeping a maintenance charger hooked up
continuously to a battery plus I don't plan on buying 10 small chargers.
Now, I do know that upper end stand-by generators are usually equipped with
a float charger that stays connected all of the time. Of course, those are
not 29.99 units, either. Rotating the charger(s) around a bunch of vehicles
also provides an opportunity for a once per month check of everything, as
well.  "Battery Tender" is one big name in maintenance chargers and MacNeil
Automotive Products has one as well. 

http://batterytender.com/ 
http://www.weathertech.com/ 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:53 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger

Hello List:
My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a few
years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store
(Canadian Tire).
Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the
750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period.
This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger
connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside?
Thanks for any leads or brand names.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:48:29 -0500
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've heard chains and gears wear together.   With an inch of slack, I'd
make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job.  The gears
on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and replaced the
set.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 18:58:07 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:52:29 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Coincidentally this topic just came up on another list and someone whose
opinion I value spoke highly of this unit:

Battery Tender<http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Plus-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359424121&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender>

Haven't used it myself (live where we drive all year) but looks good.

Geo


On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:53 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>wrote:

> Hello List:
> My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a
> few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store
> (Canadian Tire).
> Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the
> 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period.
> This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger
> connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside?
> Thanks for any leads or brand names.
> Angelo Graham

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:55:04 +0000 (UTC)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
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I got Schumacher brand 1.5 amp "float" tenders at Walmart. Less than 20 bucks. Keep one on the Stag all the time.  No trouble.  



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 19:09:35 2013
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From: KingsCreekTrees@aol.com
Full-name: KingsCreekTrees
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:57:04 -0500 (EST)
To: ccsimonsen@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1359424624;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I did renew all sprockets, tensioners,  
bolts, etc. when I renewed the timing chain.
 
Incidentally, I have never heard a timing chain get as loud as mine did in  
a very short period of time. Not even have I heard them that loud on  
Stags....
 
I've not heard of this being a common problem on TR's, but while you're in  
there anyway, best to renew the lot.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 28/01/2013 8:50:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ccsimonsen@gmail.com writes:

I've  heard chains and gears wear together.   With an inch of slack,  I'd
make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job.   The gears
on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and  replaced the
set.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees@aol.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 19:23:42 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:13:18 -0500
From: WILLIAM SMITH <smithw1@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac39xRqQuwmUTaI1T6OX1YRm8QtLgA==
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In a similar encounter with Jaguar executives, my neighbor, who worked at
Jaguar headquarters at the time it was owned by Ford, told me that a Ford
exec asked a Jag exec why Jags were not made to be more reliable.  The Jag
exec responded that it was because Jag owners liked to work on their cars.

 

Bill Smith

'72 TR6 (original owner)

'80 TR7 DHC (2nd owner)

_____________________________________

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:59:59 -0500

From: Triumph List <lgmtr6@yahoo.com>

To: "Chip19474@aol.com" <Chip19474@aol.com>

Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)



 

Reminds me of the story of when Sir William Lyons visited the Jaguar dealer
in

New York during a very bad winter storm. The sales rep asked why Jaguar

couldn't build a heater sufficient to keep the interior warm. Lyons reply
was

why is it that Americans cant learn to dress appropriately for the weather!

Larry Miceli

58 TR3

73 Stag

74 TR6

Sent from my iPhone

 

 

)

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:27:57 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     When I pulled my TR3 engine apart, I found that the timing chain
tensioner was gone completely and that the timing chain had a removable link
that was missing in one side (towards the block). The pin on the chain link
for the removable link had been rubbing against the front plate and had cut
about a.01" groove in it. I lined the broken removable link up with the oil
spillway and flicked it with my finger and the link fell out and the timing
chain fell off of the engine. I had thrashed that engine without mercy and it
had stayed together. I found the removable link in the oil pan. Lord knows how
long it had been there, maybe decades... Those little tractor engines are
pretty tough.

     I wouldn't be too concerned with slack as long as you got
the chain from somewhere respectable and put the tensioner back in when the
cover goes on.

     -Bill in Tehachapi


Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:25:51
-0600
From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject:
[TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Message-ID:
<8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice>
charset="us-ascii"

What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF)
timing chain?  With
all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of
play.  Is this OK?
Thanks,
Bill;

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com>
	<CANhzkeMZCP7ve-Wx6f_ZF+wjT8_+gOb0s0hWhJpXu=NGChjSow@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:41:13 -0600
thread-index: Ac39wwPuiPVzlToORmiRBwaOtsPiJgABkdWg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good thought, I tried to lift the chain off the sprocket and it moved less
than 1/8"(that would be about 3.175mm, Geo) so I think the sprocket is OK,
but I will take a closer look at it tomorrow.

Thx to all,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:48 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack

I've heard chains and gears wear together.   With an inch of slack, I'd
make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job.  The gears
on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and replaced the
set.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <pethier@comcast.net>, "'Alex&Janet Thomson'"
  <aljlthomson@charter.net>
References: <003801cdfdbe$00fb86b0$02f29410$@charter.net>
	<235460355.180210.1359424504228.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:42:49 -0600
thread-index: Ac39xQBbKIW4aydEQcGzdlIlRbgfUQABR7Ag
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never a problem.
Probably paid $10 for it.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:55 PM
To: Alex&Janet Thomson
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger

I got Schumacher brand 1.5 amp "float" tenders at Walmart. Less than 20
bucks. Keep one on the Stag all the time.  No trouble.  



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 21:30:25 2013
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	Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:25:17 -0700
From: "David B. Hammond" <dbh@hamengr.com>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com>
	<CANhzkeMZCP7ve-Wx6f_ZF+wjT8_+gOb0s0hWhJpXu=NGChjSow@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR engine block
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side.
Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out?
David

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 21:57:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 22:50:58 -0600
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>,Angelo Graham
  <agraham@execulink.com>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
	mail.com>
References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com>
	<CANzE1bHWaR1vumm7ryDGswSeLOA+VYkEBQ7Rme7Vxzu3Cr4K1Q@mail.gmail.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.22.113.197 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one for my race car.  Love it!  I use it on street stuff 
occasionally too.

Tony Drews

At 07:52 PM 1/28/2013, Geo Hahn wrote:
>Coincidentally this topic just came up on another list and someone whose
>opinion I value spoke highly of this unit:
>
>Battery 
>Tender<http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Plus-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359424121&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender>
>
>Haven't used it myself (live where we drive all year) but looks good.
>
>Geo
>
>
>On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:53 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>wrote:
>
> > Hello List:
> > My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a
> > few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store
> > (Canadian Tire).
> > Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the
> > 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period.
> > This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger
> > connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside?
> > Thanks for any leads or brand names.
> > Angelo Graham
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'David B. Hammond'" <dbh@hamengr.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com><CANhzkeMZCP7ve-Wx6f_ZF+wjT8_+gOb0s0hWhJpXu=NGChjSow@mail.gmail.com><07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 23:43:36 -0600
thread-index: Ac39wwPuiPVzlToORmiRBwaOtsPiJgABkdWgAAPEMNAAAmtGUA==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am sure someone will have a more exotic solution, but I would drill it an
use an easy-out.  Typically, studs are not supposed to be torqued very
tightly.

Good luck,
Bill


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David B. Hammond
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 10:25 PM
To: 'list Triumph'
Subject: [TR] TR engine block

Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side.
Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out?
David

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jan 28 22:58:39 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'David B. Hammond'" <dbh@hamengr.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:48:13 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block
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> Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on 
> pass side.
> Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out?

I'd probably start by center-punching and drilling with a left handed drill
bit.  With any luck, the bit will grab and back it out.  If not, you've got
a hole to try your favorite screw extractor.  If that fails, next step might
be to try to weld a hollow bolt to the end of the stud (although I'm not
sure how practical that is down that deep of a hole).

Last resort, I've got an article on how to build an EDM machine <g>

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:58:06 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac39xQBbKIW4aydEQcGzdlIlRbgfUQABR7AgAAashKA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never 
> a problem.
> Probably paid $10 for it.

And they're frequently on sale for even less.  But don't hook them up to a
battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell.  I burned up 3 of
them that way.  The only current limit seems to be the winding resistance in
the transformer.  When I tried replacing it with a stouter transformer, the
plastic box with the regulator melted before the regulator burned up.

This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even better
for your battery:
http://goo.gl/hNXpI

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 01:19:47 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:14:23 -0700
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race  
car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired  
in series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt  
or  12 volt charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos  
and neg cables attach.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:58 PM, Randall wrote:

>> I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never
>> a problem.
>> Probably paid $10 for it.
>
> And they're frequently on sale for even less.  But don't hook them  
> up to a
> battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell.  I burned  
> up 3 of
> them that way.  The only current limit seems to be the winding  
> resistance in
> the transformer.  When I tried replacing it with a stouter  
> transformer, the
> plastic box with the regulator melted before the regulator burned up.
>
> This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even  
> better
> for your battery:
> http://goo.gl/hNXpI
>
> -- Randall 
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:07:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

almost cannot believe it..what do you think http://bit.ly/YA9CmU

Janis

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:46:02 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Angelo Graham wrote:
This winter I have left the battery in the car with the
trickle charger connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside?

I
hesitate to broadcast the great misfortunes of others but I think there may be
some listers who know of Duncan and Sheila Wood from Red River Triumph in
Texas? Stories change in the telling but its my understanding that just before
Christmas, Duncan left the battery in his 1935 Gloria on a trickle charge in
his garage and in his absence the charger shorted out and delivered full mains
power to the battery. The tragic result was their house was effectively burned
to the ground, while their truly gorgeous Gloria, Stag and a recently acquired
Dolomite became scrap metal.
Historically, I've used a mains trickle charger
keeping my trailer home leisure battery (a deep cycle 120amp) in tip top order
over the winter and done it in my workroom that's attached to the house. Two
years ago, it failed and I bought a portable solar panel we now keep in the
trailer home when we locate it in places where there is no mains hook-up. It
more than keeps up with discharges from lighting, radio/CD and water pumps and
while it cost rather more than a mains charger, it really keeps the battery
recharged during the day and we can fully 'indulge ourselves' in electrical
services while away from mains sources. So battery and solar panel come home
in the close season and over to our 'home on wheels' when the weather is
better.
 
Jonmac    

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 03:19:38 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 03:12:45 -0700
From: Jody Kerr <jodyfkerr@gmail.com>
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
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I ha a pair of the Battery Tender brand of chargers. I use one to keep
the charge on my Mum's Spitfire and another to keep our golf cart in
Mexico charged.

They've always worked brilliantly. It has even dealt with the somewhat
questionable electricity delivery in Mexico which spikes as often as
it fails.

Jody

-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 04:07:43 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>, "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <7F.FB.25887.CE467015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<19346946-9A11-46D8-BDF0-291EAA5CC779@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:02:27 -0500
Thread-Index: AQDpXQYta0HSFkP4QRZYMb4vx75GDQNA3mRimg9Y4zA=
Content-language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When using two sixes in series, it's extremely important to have identically
sized batteries so they charge evenly from the regular vehicle charging
system. When using a plug in charger, you can use the 6V setting and do each
one individually or set it to 12V and charge them as a single unit ( which
is what your alternator is doing anyways). Since every battery is made of
groups of 2V cells, you are really charging 6 cells in series on a single
battery, 12V system. When charging the batteries individually, you should
monitor battery voltage or specific gravity (if you can open the cells) so
as to balance the degree of charge in each battery.

I have had better luck with using a pair of 12V batteries in parallel for
added amperage capability on tractors. In fact, I converted two of my
row-crop Deeres to this type of a setup from the original factory
two-sixes-in-series system. They seem to last longer and big 6V batteries
get pretty expensive. A group 4 6V is about $160 from a Deere dealer while
group 31 12V (950 CCA) is about 100 bucks from a truck shop. But, that's
getting away from your question.

Charging your batteries individually at 6V and using a voltmeter for the
first time will probably show you if the batteries are balanced. If they
are, after that you could use the 12V setting and charge them as a single
unit. I assume the vehicle is  negative ground. In that case, black,
negative charger cable to the chassis and red, positive cable to the starter
insulated circuit. 

The zero degree weather in Connecticut last week was a good test of starter
systems. But not as severe as places like upper New York state or places
like that!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud R
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 3:14 AM
To: Randall
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger

I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race
car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired in
series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt or  12 volt
charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos and neg cables
attach.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977
Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:58 PM, Randall wrote:

>> I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never a 
>> problem.
>> Probably paid $10 for it.
>
> And they're frequently on sale for even less.  But don't hook them up 
> to a battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell.  I 
> burned up 3 of them that way.  The only current limit seems to be the 
> winding resistance in the transformer.  When I tried replacing it with 
> a stouter transformer, the plastic box with the regulator melted 
> before the regulator burned up.
>
> This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even 
> better for your battery:
> http://goo.gl/hNXpI
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 06:24:12 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:10:59 -0500 (EST)
To: Chip19474@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Back in those days the batteries were much more tolerant of deeper 
discharges.  But since then there has been a CCA arms race where battery 
manufacturers tout huge numbers for Cold Cranking Amps such as 650 CCA and consumers 
have responded positively.  Nevermind that that is about 200 or 300% more than 
what is required.  (More, actually since the spec is for a 10 second 
cranking period and any modern car that doesn't start after two seconds isn't 
going to start.)

To get all those CCA's the battery manufacturers have to make more plate 
area and to keep the battery from getting much heavier (and more expensive) 
they have resorted to making the plates thinner.  Thinner plates means a 
smaller amount of discharge can leave holes in the plates (reducing plate area) 
which do not readily grow back upon recharge.  But, no problem.  All cars 
nowadays have high capacity alternators which can supply all the cars 
electrical requirements under all conditions (provided the engine is running).  

The upshot is that given the recent trend in battery design fitting an 
alternator to a TR that is driven frequently or daily is not so much a luxury as 
it is a necessary accommodation of modern battery technology.

Or you can get a deep discharge marine battery.  Or the Optima 
YellowTop(R)* battery.  (*NFI)

Dave

In a message dated 1/28/2013 8:49:52 AM Central Standard Time, 
Chip19474@aol.com writes: 
> "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the  car in 
> difficult conditions.  Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at  speed 
> when it 
> is not required.  Remember that in winter conditions with the  lights on 
> and 
> other accessories in use, the current load will be  considerable.  In cold 
> 
> weather.....if there is too great a load.....the  generator may fail to 
> keep 
> the battery fully charged"

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 06:39:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:28:19 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "David B. Hammond" <dbh@hamengr.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 9:25 PM, David B. Hammond <dbh@hamengr.com> wrote:

> Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side.
>


If you haven't already, I would be soaking that guy with PBlaster.
Hopefully it is not in there real tight.

I once had one break off but when I reinserted the jagged broken piece it
was able to engage its mate and by pressing down I was able to thread it
out.  I don't expect to get that lucky twice in one lifetime.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 07:26:09 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:21:15 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac39+KelMIVRK6cpQcy+TuNgartZsQAMGaww
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
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> I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the 
> Spitfire race car) with two six volt batteries (to get more 
> amp hours/storage) wired in series to get 12 volts. Question 
> is do I charge it with a 6 volt or  12 volt charger? Maybe 12 
> if I hook the charger to where the pos and neg cables attach.

My choice would be to leave them connected in series and use a smart 12v
charger.  Lots less hassle than trying to charge each one individually and
equally; or reconnecting in parallel (so you can charge both at once at 6v).
There may be some advantage to using two 6v chargers (which would allow
leaving the batteries connected in series), but not enough to worry about
IMO.

As a side note, my old Winnebago had an AC charger built into the motorhome,
such that it would charge the 'camping' batteries when the coach was plugged
in.  But it was a 'dumb' charger and I blamed it for shortening the battery
life.  Likely the newer ones are better, but if you leave it plugged in for
long periods of time, you might want to look into that.  And if your RV
already has a smart charger, maybe just use that.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 07:56:02 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:45:35 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
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Presuming that the two batteries are evenly loaded, and that means you 
don't have any 6 volt loads that will deplete the charge on one battery faster 
then on the other, you will be just fine with a 12 volt charger.  Just 
connect the positive lead to where the car's wiring hooks up and the negative to 
chassis.  The only connection to the other two terminals is the jumper cable 
between them.

Sure it would be better to have two six volt chargers but where do you get 
those?  They are available but for much more $$$. In a perfect world you 
would use 6 chargers, one for each cell - provided you had access to the 
terminals.  But that is way over the top.

Dave

In a message dated 1/29/2013 2:14:37 AM Central Standard Time, 
levilevi@comcast.net writes: 
> I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race  
> car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired  
> in series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt  
> or  12 volt charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos  
> and neg cables attach.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:52:22 -0600 (CST)
From: moira.secrest@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Flywheel, Clutch Q's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 08:11:20 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
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Actually, saying it is extremely important is a bit of hyperbole, 
especially in a cranking application where the level of discharge is not very deep.  
More important if you will be discharging deeply as in a wheel chair, 
electric vehicle situation or a situation where you are powering accessories when 
the engine is not running.  Since this is an RV the last might be the case.  
(Of course, if that is the case I suggest two 12 volt batteries with an 
isolator so that only one battery is used to power the devices saving the other 
to start the engine regardless.  I also recommend a deep discharge model 
for the battery powering the accessories and a cranking battery for starting.) 
 What IS important is to load the batteries equally.  That means NO! 6V 
loads that draw off only one battery.

I agree that two 12 volt batteries would probably be a better option.  
MGB's were originally equipped with two six volt batteries but many owners have 
converted to two 12 volt batteries in parallel.  Or just one 12 volt 
battery.

Lead acid batteries are pretty robust and tolerate the occasional 
overcharge without too much detriment so a one time charge upon initial installation 
where the two batteries are not charged to an equal state will be fine 
provided one isn't completely dead.

Dave

In a message dated 1/29/2013 5:02:36 AM Central Standard Time, 
aljlthomson@charter.net writes: 
> When using two sixes in series, it's extremely important to have 
> identically
> sized batteries so they charge evenly from the regular vehicle charging
> system. When using a plug in charger, you can use the 6V setting and do 
> each
> one individually or set it to 12V and charge them as a single unit ( which
> is what your alternator is doing anyways). Since every battery is made of
> groups of 2V cells, you are really charging 6 cells in series on a single
> battery, 12V system. When charging the batteries individually, you should
> monitor battery voltage or specific gravity (if you can open the cells) so
> as to balance the degree of charge in each battery.
> 
> I have had better luck with using a pair of 12V batteries in parallel for
> added amperage capability on tractors. In fact, I converted two of my
> row-crop Deeres to this type of a setup from the original factory
> two-sixes-in-series system. They seem to last longer and big 6V batteries
> get pretty expensive. A group 4 6V is about $160 from a Deere dealer while
> group 31 12V (950 CCA) is about 100 bucks from a truck shop. But, that's
> getting away from your question.
> 
> Charging your batteries individually at 6V and using a voltmeter for the
> first time will probably show you if the batteries are balanced. If they
> are, after that you could use the 12V setting and charge them as a single
> unit. I assume the vehicle is  negative ground. In that case, black,
> negative charger cable to the chassis and red, positive cable to the 
> starter
> insulated circuit. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Wbeech'" <wbeech@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 07:27:41 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac39rs6x9W5H/44vTsiQ7h8bdhPNzQAhWqgw
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) 
> timing chain?  With all the slack on the tensioner side I can 
> measure 25mm of play.  Is this OK?

Seems high to me, but that's not the way I was taught to judge timing chain
condition.  Remove the chain from the sprockets and try to flex it sideways
in your fingers.  If it will flex more than 1/4" or so, replace it.  If it
is badly worn, then you should replace the sprockets as well.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>, "'David B. Hammond'" <dbh@hamengr.com>
References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com><CANhzkeMZCP7ve-Wx6f_ZF+wjT8_+gOb0s0hWhJpXu=NGChjSow@mail.gmail.com><07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice><005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:06:07 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3+JV/pNZV0u1A4Tme+yb9TK2lWmAAFH0ew
Cc: 'list Triumph' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Or, given the latest study from The List, 50/50 solution of acetone & ATF.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:28 AM
To: David B. Hammond
Cc: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block

On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 9:25 PM, David B. Hammond <dbh@hamengr.com> wrote:

> Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side.
>


If you haven't already, I would be soaking that guy with PBlaster.
Hopefully it is not in there real tight.

I once had one break off but when I reinserted the jagged broken piece it
was able to engage its mate and by pressing down I was able to thread it
out.  I don't expect to get that lucky twice in one lifetime.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 09:16:19 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:11:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think that your standard timing chain from our main British suppliers are around $15 and an improved quality chain is around $45. Either choice is a no-brainer if you are that far into a motor. Just replace the thing, don't even look at the old one. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> 
To: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:27:41 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack 

> What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) 
> timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can 
> measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? 

Seems high to me, but that's not the way I was taught to judge timing chain 
condition. Remove the chain from the sprockets and try to flex it sideways 
in your fingers. If it will flex more than 1/4" or so, replace it. If it 
is badly worn, then you should replace the sprockets as well. 

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 09:43:10 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:31:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List!
Well I'm sorry that I haven't been keeping up on my back-log of
Digest Readings, but I'm back to having to go (peddle) to the library (10miles
each way. I do agree with that British gent. that made the statement about why
Americans can't dress right for the weather. After all I was out peddling my
bicycle in 12^F weather going into ah 20+ MPH head wind. YES! It was cold &
tough peddling, but I really enjoyed it when I had the wind at my back. Avg.
speed going into the wind= 10MPH, but with the wind at my back, It jumped to
16MPH. NO heater, just heavy layered clothing & non-stop peddling to generate
body heat. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, because it's suppose to get
up to 60^F, but rain. Well, like the Rolling Stones said, "You can't always
get what you want, but if you try REAL hard, You'll get what you need!"
 
Keep
working on your TRIUMPHS so you can get out & DRIVE!
Now, back to my readings.
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <mailman.5019.1359465346.1937.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:06:47 -0800 (PST)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I now have two single units and a double unit Pulse Tech chargers.  After using 
these for a year, I gave away my other chargers.  

These aren't the cheapest, but they replace trickle chargers, regular chargers, 
they de-sulfate, can restore dead/weak batteries, won't over-charge, blah, blah, 
blah...

http://www.amazon.com/XC100-P-Battery-Maintenance-Charger-Desulfator/dp/B000O707IO


I use them on my motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc.  As we speak, I have four 
vehicles "trickle charging/de-sulfating.  The original factory Delco "green eye" 
battery in my '03 GMC lasted 9.5 years with occasional "trickle charging" from 
one of these units.

The claim is that most batteries die an early death from the plates being 
covered with sulfate crystals.  These charger "pulse" the batteries while they 
charge and even when they are not charging to reduce the size of the crystals. 

I believe in the technology here and in the chargers, and endorse them 100%.
 best,


doug
____________________
'72 BSA B50SS
'74 Triumph TR6
'01 HD XHL 883
'03 GMC Cargo Van
'07 Aprilia SXV 550

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:34:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: Digest <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Digest hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

have a look at this http://bit.ly/UzRm9v

Cosmo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 10:46:42 2013
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References: <1359477068.27485.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:39:30 -0600
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good for you, Cosmo!  A few falls on black ice have left me gunshy and
I rarely go out on the bike below freezing these days.  I was in
central Finland a weekend ago where the temperature was -28C (-18F).
There were a number of folks out riding their bikes commuting,
including kids and old folks. The Finns are tough people...

And they make good studded tires.  Maybe I should bring home a couple
of souvenirs sometime.

This image was taken of an older gentleman around town a day or later
when the temperature was -10C (+14F).  They plow, and grit, but don't
salt in most of Finland.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HhxFf8b/0/XL/i-HhxFf8b-XL.jpg

I was about five hours easy driving from the Arctic Circle.  I thought
about finding a car to borrow and hitting the road.  Next time...

Don


On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:31 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi List!
> Well I'm sorry that I haven't been keeping up on my back-log of
> Digest Readings, but I'm back to having to go (peddle) to the library (10miles
> each way. I do agree with that British gent. that made the statement about why
> Americans can't dress right for the weather. After all I was out peddling my
> bicycle in 12^F weather going into ah 20+ MPH head wind. YES! It was cold &
> tough peddling, but I really enjoyed it when I had the wind at my back. Avg.
> speed going into the wind= 10MPH, but with the wind at my back, It jumped to
> 16MPH. NO heater, just heavy layered clothing & non-stop peddling to generate
> body heat. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, because it's suppose to get
> up to 60^F, but rain. Well, like the Rolling Stones said, "You can't always
> get what you want, but if you try REAL hard, You'll get what you need!"
>
> Keep
> working on your TRIUMPHS so you can get out & DRIVE!
> Now, back to my readings.
> -Cosmo Kramer
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 10:49:52 2013
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	Jan 2013 17:44:58 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:45:00 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3+JV/pNZV0u1A4Tme+yb9TK2lWmAAFH0ewAANOLvA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Or, given the latest study from The List, 50/50 solution of 
> acetone & ATF.

Not latest or from the list, just what someone else wrote up for a magazine
about 5 years ago.  And the acetone/ATF mixture (aka "weasel pee") will
separate in a matter of hours, making it useless for extended soaking.

The "scientific" study didn't even look at whether it made the difference
between getting something apart and destroying it; only how easy it was to
turn a bolt that would have turned anyway.  My interest runs more towards
turning something that would twist off otherwise.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 11:15:47 2013
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References: <1359480842.38864.androidMobile@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:07:36 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
Cc: Digest <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Digest hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I assume everyone knows better than to click on links that are offered in
this fashion.  We've had two such posts just today so I thought I'd remind
folks to use caution.

They may actually be legitimate but it pays to be wary as email accounts
are often hacked/hijacked.

Geo

PS (I messed with the link below so it won't work at all).

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:

> have a look at this http://bit.ly****/UzRm9v
>
> Cosmo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:07:03 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:01:56 -0500 (EST)
From: dennis culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [TR] Battery Tenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

   A few years ago I attended a tour of Jim Taylor's car collection in 
upstate NY. Every car in the collection (100+) was registered, insured 
and ready to run thanks to dozens and dozens of Battery Tenders lining 
the floor between the rows of cars.  A very impressive collection, by 
the way - lots of British cars (Aston Martins, Healeys, a few Triumhs 
and MGs) along with every other type of car you can imagine including a 
"barn find" Cobra that was actually built into somebody's house!
Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:32:37 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:22:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Carletta <anncarletta@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] bad link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who all
got some spam e-mail from "me". 
 
On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend on
starting the car later (TR3A).  I took her for a spin on a day like this about
2 weeks ago-top off, of course.
 
Ann

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:07:36 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
Cc: Digest <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Digest hi
Message-ID:
    <CANzE1bGG6HJH99iJPm=oNrToxVYpZgdEt0=kE_X36eEhd0CzUQ@mail.gmail.com>

I assume everyone knows better than to click on links that are offered in
this fashion.  We've had two such posts just today so I thought I'd remind
folks to use caution.

They may actually be legitimate but it pays to be wary as email accounts
are often hacked/hijacked.

Geo

PS (I messed with the link below so it won't work at all).

On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com> wrote:

> have a look at this http://bit.ly****/UzRm9v
>
> Cosmo


------------------------------

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End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 42
***************************************

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:33:53 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:25:10 -0500
References: <mailman.4970.1359427622.1937.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[5A798B90:01CDFE56]
Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a couple of Battery Tenders last year and liked them so much, that I
bought 3 more. I used to use a regular 2 amp charger and a 6 amp charger to
try to charge all my seasonal vehicle batteries a few times throughout the
winter, but as I didn't check out the battery voltage after charging or use a
hygrometer (perhaps more difficult with a "sealed" battery) it was hit and
miss as to exactly how long I needed to charge the batteries and when I needed
to charge them. And at best my batteries rarely lasted more than 3 seasons.

I like 4 things about the Battery Tender. My First Like is the 2 lights -
Flashing Red for a bad connection/open circuit; Red for a low battery; Red and
Green for almost charged; and Green for fully charged and charger shuts off
and then just measures voltage to determine if it should come back on. My
Second Like is the permanent spark-free wire connection to the battery using
the ring terminals which connect to the bolts through the terminal ends on the
car's standard battery cable ends, and then the umbical cord from the ring
terminals can be fed permanemtly through the car's grille ending in a
weatherproof capped quick disconnect - no worrying about alligator clips
jumping off when you shut the hood. My Third Like is you can leave the Battery
Tender connected forever without worrying about over charging or running up
huge dollars on your electric bill. My Fourth Like is the integral fuse that I
imagine might help prevent a fire.

If, by using a hastle-free $50 Battery Tender, I can get 6 years out a $100
battery instead of 2, it's saved me $200, a 4:1 ROI ! If I get 8 years, I'll
save $300! Multiplied by number of seasonal vehicles.

-David Murphy
Dearborn Michigan
'76 TR6
'66 AH3000
'03 BMW MCS
'73 Norton Commando 850 Roadster
1 big old Yank ragtop

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:38:25 2013
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From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:35:26 -0500
To: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
Does anyone have any photos or video on where and how the front end lower facing is attached to a TR4A????
I am told that this is a weak point in the front suspension and I would like to take care of the issue while I have the motor out.
Thanks



Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
65 TR4A on a TR4 frame
CTC64651LO
allegrorover@mac.com
www.triumphowners.com/1489

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:48:25 2013
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	adultscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1
	engine=6.0.2-1203120001 definitions=main-1301290173
From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:36:48 -0500
To: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] oops sorry
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I meant bracing instead of facing......can't type or is it read well....
Tony cascio

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:49:00 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 13:41:26 -0600
References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com>
To: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Cc: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A couple of questions..

1. Which chassis?  Standard or IRS?
2. Can you elaborate on "front end lower facing"?


On Jan 29, 2013, at 1:35 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote:

> List,
> Does anyone have any photos or video on where and how the front end lower
facing is attached to a TR4A????
> I am told that this is a weak point in the front suspension and I would like
to take care of the issue while I have the motor out.
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Tony Cascio
> 58 TR3A
> TS27093L
> 65 TR4A on a TR4 frame
> CTC64651LO
> allegrorover@mac.com
> www.triumphowners.com/1489
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 12:52:37 2013
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From: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:49:34 -0500
References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com>
	<66F348FA-C15F-4AC7-BA77-833BF7723F5E@genfiniti.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Cc: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I believe it's the bracing setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the frame.
Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the single bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up.
I just wondered if anyone had done this already and if there were any photos available before I attempt this upgrade.
Thanks 
Tony Cascio

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 13:17:49 2013
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To: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 20:04:30 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tony,

There are actually three weak spots there:

1.  The brackets that
are welded to the frame can tear off.  As built, they are mostly welded to the
back wall of the frame.  This has happened to me.

2.  The single-bolt
brackets can break.  This has also happened to me.

3.  The single-bolt
brackets can pull through the frame bracket.

On #1, there is a gusset kit
that can (should!) be installed.  I got mine from TRF, though you could
fabricate your own gussets.

On #2, use the TR6 brackets with two bolts.

On
#3, fab up an extra backing plate to reinforce the bracket welded to the
frame.

-Darrell

On Jan 29, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Anthony Cascio
<allegrorover@mac.com> wrote:

Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I
believe it's the bracing setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the
frame.
Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the
single bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up.
I just wondered if
anyone had done this already and if there were any photos available before I
attempt this upgrade.
Thanks 
Tony Cascio

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
darrellw360@mac.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw3
60@mac.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 14:19:39 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 15:13:42 -0600
References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com>
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To: Anthony Cascio <allegrorover@mac.com>
Cc: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net car discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anthony,

I get it now.
I did this on my 4A.

It was a matter of welding some strengthening gussets to the chassis mounts,
and using the two-bolt brackets from a TR6.
I have descriptions and photos on my web site at:

http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/chassisRenew.asp
http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/frontSuspensionRenew.asp

Hope it helps.  Best of luck.



On Jan 29, 2013, at 1:49 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote:

> Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I believe it's the bracing
setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the frame.
> Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the single
bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up.
> I just wondered if anyone had done this already and if there were any photos
available before I attempt this upgrade.
> Thanks
> Tony Cascio

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 15:26:01 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1359487373.95145.YahooMailClassic@web163503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] bad link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/29/13 12:22 PM, Ann Carletta wrote:
> I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who all
> got some spam e-mail from "me".
I *never* open a link that comes in an email without text or one that 
only has a sentence or two of generic text not obviously from a real 
list member or person I know.  I'm sure I miss some interesting videos 
but it seems to me that someone could at least add text saying what the 
link is for if it is legit.
>   
> On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend on
> starting the car later (TR3A).  I took her for a spin on a day like this about
> 2 weeks ago-top off, of course.
I too started my TR3 today. I let it idle in the garage while I shoveled 
snow off the driveway and walkways. Thought the TR would enjoy getting 
the juices flowing and the battery charged.  Looks like a high of 30 
degrees F today.

TeriAnn

The word burrr comes to mind.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<51084C79.6090904@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:48:18 -0600
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] bad link
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

70+ F in Saint Louis yesterday and today.  Good days to get the TR3B
out and the oil hot.  Of course, now the storms and tornado watches
are looming -- there's a price to be paid here for those temperatures
in January.

Don

On 1/29/13, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 1/29/13 12:22 PM, Ann Carletta wrote:
>> I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who
>> all
>> got some spam e-mail from "me".
> I *never* open a link that comes in an email without text or one that
> only has a sentence or two of generic text not obviously from a real
> list member or person I know.  I'm sure I miss some interesting videos
> but it seems to me that someone could at least add text saying what the
> link is for if it is legit.
>>
>> On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend
>> on
>> starting the car later (TR3A).  I took her for a spin on a day like this
>> about
>> 2 weeks ago-top off, of course.
> I too started my TR3 today. I let it idle in the garage while I shoveled
> snow off the driveway and walkways. Thought the TR would enjoy getting
> the juices flowing and the battery charged.  Looks like a high of 30
> degrees F today.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> The word burrr comes to mind.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:23:15 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] hi Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hey have a look http://bit.ly/XHQWe7

William

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	Jan 2013 02:01:44 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>, "Angelo Graham"
	<agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com>
	<1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 20:01:47 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Although I am fortunate that my car is next to the house in the local 
garage, and I only have one to maintain, I generally don't worry about 
charging the battery in the winter, and just start it about once a month 
when we get a decent day, if no snow on the ground even take it for a drive. 
Charges the battery back up, and gets the circulating and covering the 
internal parts they are supposed to cover, and hopefully evaporates out any 
condensation in the motor.

I realize not every one has that luxury, so a charger of some kind is 
needed, but works well for me.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jan 29 23:33:28 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:22:26 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] hi Triumph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

check out this page http://bit.ly/14qhJlz

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 04:10:01 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 03:00:16 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Damn Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Sorry about the bad link sent out from me yesterday.
     I got hacked.
Sorry. I got the same email from a friend I had just sent a photo to and this
email popped back, apparently from him. I thought that he had 
sent me
something in return, so I clicked on it.
     How does one clear this up? I
plan to run Malware Bytes and SpyBot Search & Destroy, just to make sure.
     -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 04:25:31 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,	"Triumphs"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1359543616.32477.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:13:40 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Damn Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Windows box?  just do a restore point from a few days ago
Personally after using half a dozen different anti-virus and etc packages 
over the years...I've settled with Bit Defender.Cleanest, works well, stops 
most stuff cold.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 6:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Damn Links


>     Sorry about the bad link sent out from me yesterday.
>     I got hacked.
> Sorry. I got the same email from a friend I had just sent a photo to and 
> this
> email popped back, apparently from him. I thought that he had
> sent me
> something in return, so I clicked on it.
>     How does one clear this up? I
> plan to run Malware Bytes and SpyBot Search & Destroy, just to make sure.
>     -Bill Brewer
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 06:59:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:52:38 -0800 (PST)
From: John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

check this page out http://bit.ly/1297cMO

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 08:06:28 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:01:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hey have a look http://bit.ly/XRLc28

Gary

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 08:21:45 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:16:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
To: list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] penetrating oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago.  This stuff
is great!!  It was developed for the navy many years ago. I have not found a
stuck corroded rusty nut it could not free yet.  It bubbles and leaves behind
rust preventative.  Has a bit of a funky smell, but don't they all?  It's made
of wool oil.

http://www.fluidfilmsalesusa.com/about/

It can be purchased from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLUID-FILM-LubricantCorrosion-Inhibitor-10N7
83?gclid=CNa5hbaukLUCFQVgMgodXW4AFg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehi
cle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-10N783&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10
N783&ef_id=jQ1Pvjkur28AAFBB:20130130150949:s

NFI
The "List" rocks!  thanks guys
Jeff Lee
63 TR4 22144
Easley, SC

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 08:31:53 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:26:26 -0500
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Subject: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links"  from a wide variety of Mail 
List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses 
grabbed?


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:40:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
To: list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>>>"Hi"<<<  seems to be the word to look out for.

--- On Wed, 1/30/13, Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

From: Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Subject: [TR] More Bad Links
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, January 30, 2013, 10:26 AM

I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links"  from a wide variety of Mail
List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses
grabbed?


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/63trumpster@bellsouth.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 08:51:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:46:32 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130107 Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell>
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 1/30/13 8:26 AM, Bob wrote:
> I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links"  from a wide variety 
> of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email 
> addresses grabbed?
I don't think the list got hacked.  I think that the virus went viral 
and the individuals on the list  who are sending out the viral link are 
all hacked.

That's why I never open a link unless it is accompanied by convincing 
non generic text explaining what the link is to.  And even then I will 
not if it seems remotely suspicious.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 09:02:21 2013
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From: "Wbeech" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Jeff Lee'" <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>, "'list'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell>
	<1359560417.50944.YahooMailClassic@web181705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 09:52:09 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac3/AHFTUDA5M22lRZKXFPl5QFFQJAAAJGAg
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been real careful with my internet usage, BUT if any gets one of
these from me, please let me know.

If you will change your password it will fix it, for this time. 

Thanks,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Lee
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 9:40 AM
To: list
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links

>>>"Hi"<<<  seems to be the word to look out for.

--- On Wed, 1/30/13, Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

From: Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Subject: [TR] More Bad Links
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, January 30, 2013, 10:26 AM

I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links"  from a wide variety of Mail
List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses
grabbed?


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/63trumpster@bellsouth.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 09:50:24 2013
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	<51094058.6060600@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:45:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

i don't understand how just opening mail can download a virus to my computer.
i do understand clicking the link in the initial email has caused some of you
to be hacked. as i have been in the past.
maybe those of you more savy than me
can explain in very simple terms how just opening mail can get me hacked.
 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links

On
1/30/13 8:26 AM, Bob wrote:
> I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" 
from a wide variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get
hacked and email addresses grabbed?
I don't think the list got hacked.  I
think that the virus went viral and the individuals on the list  who are
sending out the viral link are all hacked.

That's why I never open a link
unless it is accompanied by convincing non generic text explaining what the
link is to.  And even then I will not if it seems remotely suspicious.
TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 09:53:27 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:48:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR4 front end bacing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Hi list!
1st- I want to apologize to anyone you received an E-mail from me
with an attachment that i did NOT state what was in it. I've been hacked &
don't open up anything.

2nd- On bracing the front suspension. I haven't had a
chance to do it, yet, but I've purchased the 4 lower F suspension frame rail
mounting brackets from a TR6 (which has two studs to mount to the frame vs
stud that's found on the TR4/A's). 
The TR6's makes better sense to me,
because IF (hopefully not) the one stud should brake on the TR4/A's set-up,
then you have BIG problems when driving {weather it's on local street speeds
or on highway speeds}. But the TR6 set-up would 'Hopefully' give you a chance
to be able to pull off the road SAFELY!

Also, I think if you check with tony
at RADCO Frames, he'll tell you to gusset up the frame.

Well, it's back to
peddling home in 60+^F weather, rain & headwinds of 25+MPH. Stay warm & keep
working on your TRIUMPHs!
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 11:37:08 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:28:31 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
Cc: list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] penetrating oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jan 30, 2013 at 8:16 AM, Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago.  This
> stuff
> is great!!



I, too, have been using Fluid Film.  I still use PBlaster for penetrating
oil but the FF seems to be a good choice for rust proofing as it is easy to
spray in cavities, creeps well and unlike most spray oils seems never to
evaporate.  Also makes cast metal parts look nice if you're detailing (e.g.
master cylinders).

I found it at a local tractor supply store (which is itself hard to find in
Tucson AZ).  I think its main ingredient is Lanolin.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 11:38:09 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 12:32:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For what it's worth - I use verizon.net email. None of the infecting items made it to my inbox. One of the few benefits to this service. It doesn't block a lot of junk mail but anything with an attachment or active link is scanned (I do receive images, links, etc so it doesn't block everything)

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 12:11:17 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <24503599.127025.1359570777274.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 13:56:33 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I use a product called Mail Washer Pro which doesn't download anything to my 
PC but lets me look at the email on the mail server......... then I can 
decide to download it or not. If I choose not to download it, Mail Washer 
removes it from the mail server.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more



-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:32 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Links

For what it's worth - I use verizon.net email. None of the infecting items 
made it to my inbox. One of the few benefits to this service. It doesn't 
block a lot of junk mail but anything with an attachment or active link is 
scanned (I do receive images, links, etc so it doesn't block everything)

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 12:41:04 2013
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	Jan 2013 19:36:02 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:36:07 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3/CT3J69NwHzR9Rzyaib92cWZphAAFcbOw
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> i don't understand how just opening mail can download a virus 
> to my computer.

In theory, it shouldn't be able to.  But HTML and Java are basically limited
programming languages, so opening your email is allowing an unknown program
to run on your computer.  They aren't supposed to allow anything that could
install a virus; but there are always bugs.  And there are an amazing number
of very bright people out there with apparently nothing better to do than
find those bugs and a way to exploit them.

Another problem is that HTML (& Java) can pull in graphics from other
sources (often just a single pixel that goes unnoticed).  That lets a
spammer know that there is a human reading your email address; which makes
the address more valuable to other spammers.  

Then there is the accident factor.  Some folks (me for example) are so
clumsy that sometimes we click where we didn't mean to.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 14:40:34 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch
the only best possibility still?  Not interested in doing the clutch twice,
but it is a pricey kit.

Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads?  There
were none on disassembly.

Martin Secrest

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 12:53:45 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bob'" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:45:03 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac3+/kn7PfqJUV/mSP61JD+v556bqwAI4ITA
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links"  from a wide 
> variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get 
> hacked and email addresses grabbed?

I don't think so.  And I also don't think others on the list got infected
(this time).  Instead, I believe the hackers are breaking into email
accounts and then using them to send their spam to every address in the
contact list.  All of the recent messages have been from just 2 or 3 ISPs
(whom I believe are not as careful about user account security as they might
be).

But that's just a SWAG.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 12:57:27 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:52:09 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
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Cc: list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] penetrating oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I buy Fluid Film at the local John Deere dealer.  I use it every fall all over the chassis of the Suburban.  Seems that GM can find good paint for the body but not for the frame.  Right next to a perfect underbody is a frame with no paint on it at all.

I have never tried Fluid Film for bolt-and-nut removal.  PB Blaster has worked fine for me.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Lee" <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
> To: "list" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 9:16:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] penetrating oil
> A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago. This
> stuff
> is great!! It was developed for the navy many years ago. I have not
> found a
> stuck corroded rusty nut it could not free yet. It bubbles and leaves
> behind
> rust preventative. Has a bit of a funky smell, but don't they all?
> It's made
> of wool oil.
> 
> http://www.fluidfilmsalesusa.com/about/
> 
> It can be purchased from Grainger:
> 
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLUID-FILM-LubricantCorrosion-Inhibitor-10N7
> 83?gclid=CNa5hbaukLUCFQVgMgodXW4AFg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehi
> cle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-10N783&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10
> N783&ef_id=jQ1Pvjkur28AAFBB:20130130150949:s
> 
> NFI
> The "List" rocks! thanks guys
> Jeff Lee
> 63 TR4 22144
> Easley, SC
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 12:59:05 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:53:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
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First on the list:  Don't put anything in the address book of a Microsoft mail program!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
> To: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:45:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links
> > I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide
> > variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get
> > hacked and email addresses grabbed?
> 
> I don't think so. And I also don't think others on the list got
> infected
> (this time). Instead, I believe the hackers are breaking into email
> accounts and then using them to send their spam to every address in
> the
> contact list. All of the recent messages have been from just 2 or 3
> ISPs
> (whom I believe are not as careful about user account security as they
> might
> be).
> 
> But that's just a SWAG.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 15:04:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lee <63trumpster@bellsouth.net>
To: list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] list hey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

check this page out http://msn.nbcnews.com-im7.net/finance/

Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 16:51:03 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 17:46:00 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: moira.secrest@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Martin,
 
Really curious on this myself, I have a 72 TR6 and have been looking at the Magic Clutch with the uprated Koyo bearing.
 
We shall see the wisdom of the list.
 
Craig
 


On 01/30/13, M. Secrest<moira.secrest@verizon.net> wrote:

Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch
the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice,
but it is a pricey kit.

Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There
were none on disassembly.

Martin Secrest

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 15:52:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, Triumphs
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>, mgs <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>,
	"Spitfires@autox.team.net" <Spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Drat.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

oh Mark
its not your fault
your the good guy in all this
its us dumb *&%
clicking the link :-)

From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To: Triumphs
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>; mgs <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 3:37 PM
Subject: [TR] Drat.

I really need
to get some filters set up to keep that crap from hijacked emails
getting
through.  My apologies for not doing it sooner.

mjb.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 18:17:37 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:12:17 -0600
From: triumph74tr6 <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: thenicholls@verizon.net, moira.secrest@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had that parts combo in my '76 for 10 years....love it....no issues.

Chad in Tulsathenicholls@verizon.net wrote:Martin,

Really curious on this myself, I have a 72 TR6 and have been looking at the Magic Clutch with the uprated Koyo bearing.

We shall see the wisdom of the list.

Craig



On 01/30/13, M. Secrest<moira.secrest@verizon.net> wrote:

Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch
the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice,
but it is a pricey kit.

Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There
were none on disassembly.

Martin Secrest

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 19:01:55 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 18:58:38 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <qsgr15ufs0d1i613egsjric7.1359594667387@email.android.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have to relate a story about the TRF clutch kit.   Actually this may 
be in the archives,
I wrote about it at the time it happened, as I recall.

So I'm working at Bailey's and this one particular TR6 needed some 
clutch work.
I convinced the owner that the TRF Magic Kit was the way to go, he 
agreed, we
got the parts.  I installed them, buttoned everything up and started the 
car.

The shop was filled with this hideous screeching.  Shut it off, back on 
the lift,
checking the hydraulics, pushrods and such.  Nothing obvious, fire it 
up, again
the screeching.  We did what we could from outside the bellhousing, nothing
made a difference.  Bit the bullet and pulled out the gearbox once again.

Close inspection showed the pressure plate fingers were NOT running against
the face of the throwout bearing, but the edge of the bearing carrier.  
On the
phone with TRF straight away, and probably a message or two to this list.

Turns out that the pressure plate they sent us was not the correct one.  
But they
had no idea, because it had been boxed wrong wherever it had been made.  
So TRF
was not to blame, but they took the responsibility.  Sent us the proper 
part overnight
at their expense.  I checked, double checked and checked again that it 
was the proper
part.  Installed it, got it all back together, worked great.

Now the folks at TRF, being the car people they are, know what it takes 
to install a
new clutch.  They weren't willing to just cover all the extra labor 
costs involved in
installing the wrong part.  What they did do was give the owner of the 
car a nice
credit towards parts.  I convinced him that he should spend it on the 
bits to get
the gearbox rebuilt, as there were some issues with it I noticed before.

Anyway, the clutch and tranny are still going strong.  TRF showed great 
character in
handling the situation.  Yes, the owner did end up paying us a bit more 
than he should
have, I worked a modest number of hours without charge, Bailey's lost a 
bit in labor
charges, but it seemed like a very reasonable end to the entire affair.

Way to go TRF!

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 30 22:36:03 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 21:30:41 -0800
From: Eric Miller <ebuzzmiller@comcast.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I did my 4A ten years ago I went with the Sachs pressure plate 
(which I believe comes from the Saab 900) and the Koyo bearing.  I 
recall both being much less expensive than the magic clutch and so far 
so good on my car (although I've only put maybe 5,000 miles on it in ten 
years...)

Here's some more info 
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm

-Eric Miller
'65 4A

On 1/30/2013 11:40 AM, M. Secrest wrote:
> Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch
> the only best possibility still?  Not interested in doing the clutch twice,
> but it is a pricey kit.
>
> Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads?  There
> were none on disassembly.
>
> Martin Secrest
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 31 14:18:54 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 15:07:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an umbrella stand.  umbrella blew over, stand base broke.  its
concrete.  its one long jagged break.  anyone know of a good way to
glue/patch/put it back together?

thanks and sorry for the totally off topic post

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan 31 18:41:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 17:33:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hi
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hey have a look http://bit.ly/12cgZSr

Gary

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 17:33:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] hi
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hey have a look http://bit.ly/12cgZSr

Gary

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

