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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: 3 point belts in a TR4A
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Subject: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A
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Hi guys,

When I restored the '67 TR4A in the mid 90's, I wanted to replace the clapped
out lap belts with a 3 point setup.  At that time not much was available, so I
went to a wrecking yard and got a 3 point set out of a Toyota.  I even got a
good match to my light tan interior.  However, these belts do not have inertia
reels and consequently wind up closing in door frames, etc.

I decided to go with a set of 3 point inertia reel belts offered by TRF for
the TR6.

Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is
supposed to mount.  If you have reels with a stock TR6 setup, can you explain
where these attach?  My TR4A, which is very late (CTC78390L),  has factory
mounting positions on the floor (2 per side) and the top of the rear wheel
wells, so the other attachment points are obvious.

Thanks,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas                       E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
   Holliday Point                      Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario      Toys:      54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  1 14:15:34 2013
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 16:12:16 -0400
From: David Soknacki <soknacki@soknacki.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] TR6 lower outer rear valance panel
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Fm    David Soknacki
	74 TR6 CF22072U
         
Hi list!
 
1. Does anyone know where I can get a TR6 *lower* outer rear valance panel?
It's the section from the bumper downwards, as it curves back under the
body.
 
2. In my search for a replacement, the parts suppliers I've checked offer
the full outer valance panel. But I was hoping that someone has fabricated
just the lower outer panel as a separate part since it is the section
usually attacked by rust.

3. By the way, I asked about making the part just by itself, but because of
its complex shape, I've been given a quote at about the same cost as a full
outer panel.

Thanks so much.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  1 19:16:02 2013
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Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 21:07:40 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF80E0CF7A1@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
Subject: Re: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A
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On 4/1/2013 2:37 PM, Brian Thomas wrote:
> Hi guys,

>
> Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is
> supposed to mount.

There's a mount on the inner fender just above the rear shelf.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 02:11:22 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3
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I am now thoroughly flummoxed ...  found two relatively new lamp holders and
re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight.  Same
thing happens.  When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok.  Plug in
the sixth and it flickers.  Doesn't matter which location.   To make sure I
had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the
speedo & tach.  (the dash is powder coated).   So - out they all came again.
On the bench, I hooked up jumpers to all - the same thing happens.  Also
tried it bypassing the fuse holder.  Re-checked all of the holders and none
have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections;
Really getting frustrating....   I put them back in and will leave one tach
lamp out for now.  I need to keep up the forward progress.  

The other issue now is that the starter just whirs.   I took it out sometime
ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again.  Any
suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. 


Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 4:20 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3

It seems that if 5 are connected - all is ok.  Plug in the sixth -
regardless of location - they start flickering. 
Followed Michael's suggestion...  found one that had a cracked separator
between +/-.   Without that one in the mix - all is ok.  
Of course, the spare has been re-used many times and the tines on the
backside are completely useless.  I'll go digging for another but at least I
know the problem.

Thanks Michael & Bill for the quick response.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 3:04 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3

I am pulling my hair.  (not out - I need all I have)

 

Installed the 6 panel lamps on the '3 yesterday.  

Two circuits -  one with 4 holders/bulbs for speedo/tach, the other with two
holders/bulbs for center panel

Bench tested all six at one time - all ok.

 

Problem - one holder/lamp in the center panel pair - when installed causes
everything to flicker.  I unplug the offending holder/lamp and no flicker.
I connect a ground and it is back.

 

Switched out for an older holder/lamp - same thing.

Switched the lamps around - same thing. Same location.

 

Not sure it matters but It is the center panel lamp below the turn signal
indicator.

 

Any ideas.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  2 06:15:56 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 07:47:25 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A
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I bought the inertia reel belts from Moss and mounted them using the stock 
TR6 mounts.  The inertia reel mounts on the wheel well just above the parcel 
shelf and there is a belt guide that mounts higher up directly above the 
reel.  The feeds the belt over the shoulder.  The other end of the loop bolts 
to a weld nut just below and behind the lower rear corner of the door 
opening.  The other part of the belt set bolts to a weld nut in the driveshaft 
tunnel.

I do believe the TR4 has different seatbelt provisions but I am not 
familiar with the TR4A but if you don't have the weld nuts you can drill holes and 
use nuts and oversized washers to prevent pull-through which is what I did 
for the guide loop on my TR6 since the 71 didn't come equipped with inertia 
reel belts, just the fixed length three point harness.

If you can, study the mountings on a TR6 and try to approximate as closely 
as you can.  I'm sure the factory spent quite a bit of time optimizing the 
seatbelt mountings so it would be wise to ride their coattails.

Cheers

Dave

In a message dated 4/1/2013 1:39:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
thomasb@queensu.ca writes: 
> Hi guys,
> 
> When I restored the '67 TR4A in the mid 90's, I wanted to replace the 
> clapped
> out lap belts with a 3 point setup.  At that time not much was available, 
> so I
> went to a wrecking yard and got a 3 point set out of a Toyota.  I even got 
> a
> good match to my light tan interior.  However, these belts do not have 
> inertia
> reels and consequently wind up closing in door frames, etc.
> 
> I decided to go with a set of 3 point inertia reel belts offered by TRF 
> for
> the TR6.
> 
> Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is
> supposed to mount.  If you have reels with a stock TR6 setup, can you 
> explain
> where these attach?  My TR4A, which is very late (CTC78390L),  has factory
> mounting positions on the floor (2 per side) and the top of the rear wheel
> wells, so the other attachment points are obvious.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
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Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3
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Boy, all the descriptions sound like there is a current limiting device in 
there (other than the fuse) but that is just crazy talk.  But it sounds like 
something is overheating with sufficient current but if the current is 
reduced below the threshold all is well.  Do they ALL flash in unison or just 
one or a few?

Your starter problem may be one of the two following things.  The TR3 
Starters The bendix extends by riding out on some reverse acme threads.  It 
counts on inertia to spin more slowly than the motor to do so.  If there is 
insufficient lubrication (grease) the friction will be greater than the force 
resulting from the inertia and the bendix will not deploy properly.  I had this 
issue on a 65 MGB and applying grease made it work like new again.

The other problem is that your (and my) starter has a rubber coupler in the 
bendix.  If the bond between the rubber and metal parts fails the motor 
will spin and the rubber/metal interface will slip and the engine will not 
turn.  I have a starter on the shelf in the garage with this special feature.  
You may need a bendix.  Does it spin as if totally unloaded for does it turn 
as loaded but still will not turn over the engine?

Dave

In a message dated 4/2/2013 3:08:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes: 
> I am now thoroughly flummoxed ...  found two relatively new lamp holders 
> and
> re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight.  
> Same
> thing happens.  When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok.  Plug 
> in
> the sixth and it flickers.  Doesn't matter which location.   To make sure 
> I
> had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the
> speedo &tach.  (the dash is powder coated).   So - out they all came 
> again.
> On the bench, I hooked up jumpers to all - the same thing happens.  Also
> tried it bypassing the fuse holder.  Re-checked all of the holders and 
> none
> have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections;
> Really getting frustrating....   I put them back in and will leave one 
> tach
> lamp out for now.  I need to keep up the forward progress.  
> 
> The other issue now is that the starter just whirs.   I took it out 
> sometime
> ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again.  Any
> suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 18:25:15 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, cfmtr3a@verizon.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3
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---- Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote: 
> I am now thoroughly flummoxed ...  found two relatively new lamp holders and
> re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight.  Same
> thing happens.  When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok.  Plug in
> the sixth and it flickers.

Can you describe the "flicker" a bit more?  It almost sounds like you have a mis-wire somewhere that is powering the dash lights through the turn signal flasher or something.

>  o make sure I
> had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the
> speedo & tach. 

FWIW, I believe there is supposed to be a ground wire there.  Single black wire from the clamp on the instrument panel, to ring terminals on the mounting posts for both tach and speedo.

> Re-checked all of the holders and none
> have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections;

The "arm" that supports the bulb bends slightly when the holder is inserted into the hole.  I've had problems several times with it deflecting enough so that the bulb no longer securely contacts the base contact when the holder is inserted in the hole.  But that would affect only one lamp, so not likely to be your problem.

> The other issue now is that the starter just whirs.   I took it out sometime
> ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again.  Any
> suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. 

Sometimes the starter doesn't get enough current to move the Bendix.  A low battery (run down perhaps from all the light testing?), poor connection (don't forget the ground strap at the LH motor mount) or bad solenoid.

I finally got disgusted with all the starter problems I was having, and upgraded to a gear-drive starter in 2001.  (Got mine from TRF but lots of sources offer essentially the same unit.)  Still works great.

> 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

With that commission number, your starter should not have the bonded rubber drive that Dave M. mentioned.  If you have an early starter installed, that might be the problem.  The early starter used a smaller pinion gear that will just barely engage with the later (smaller) ring gear.  After just a little bit of wear, it slips.

One of the things I did to make the starter easier to change was install a Heli-coil in the transmission flange for the upper starter bolt.  Not having to mess with that nut makes the job a whole lot easier!  I just ran the tap in through the engine flange (where it cut threads that won't hurt anything) and then turned the insert in until it was entirely in the gearbox flange.  I'm not sure it would work every time (I run a TR6 gearbox with a thicker flange) but it sure worked a treat for me.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 08:10:12 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3
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In a message dated 4/2/2013 10:46:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes:
> <snip>
>>1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>
>  Randall=With that commission number, your starter should not have the
> bonded rubber drive that Dave M. mentioned.  If you have an early starter
> installed, that might be the problem.  The early starter used a smaller
pinion
> gear that will just barely engage with the later (smaller) ring gear.
> After just a little bit of wear, it slips.
>
> Dave= The other problem is that your (and my) starter has a rubber coupler
> in the bendix.
>
>
>
>  I do not recall a rubber coupler.  Without taking it out, is there a way
> to tell if I have an early or later starter?   Lucas Part number on the box
> was 25550 (it was new in box b date stamped July 1968).

My bad.  I blinked twice this mooning and realized I misread your
commission number.  I saw the TS and then I saw the 18 and made the connection
that
your number was close to mine (TS18xxx) so you probably had the same style
starter.  Please disregard. Although readers with early models may take this
to heart.

>
>
>
>
>  Randall=One of the things I did to make the starter easier to change was
> install a Heli-coil in the transmission flange for the upper starter bolt.
> Not having to mess with that nut makes the job a whole lot easier!  I just
> ran the tap in through the engine flange (where it cut threads that won't
> hurt anything) and then turned the insert in until it was entirely in the
> gearbox flange.  I'm not sure it would work every time (I run a TR6 gearbox
> with a thicker flange) but it sure worked a treat for me.
>
> Something to think about but maybe not now.
>
>
>
> Dave= Your starter problem may be one of the two following things.  The
> TR3 Starters The bendix extends by riding out on some reverse acme threads.
> It counts on inertia to spin more slowly than the motor to do so.  If there
> is insufficient lubrication (grease) the friction will be greater than the
> force resulting from the inertia and the bendix will not deploy properly.
> I had this issue on a 65 MGB and applying grease made it work like new
> again.
>
>
>
>  Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out b or should I just
> plan on taking on this task this Saturday.   It might be obvious if I was
> looking at the starter b but where?
>
>
>
> Dave= Does it spin as if totally unloaded for does it turn as loaded but
> still will not turn over the engine?
>
>
>
> It just spins b appears to be no contact with the ring gear.

Then I would hope it is a reluctant bendix.  I don't see how you can apply
grease to it without removing it.  That's what I did on my MG many years
ago.

It might be a bad spot on the ring gear.  Try pushing the car in gear to
turn the engine a bit and see if that changes anything.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 12:44:40 2013
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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 18:19:52 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, cfmtr3a@verizon.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3
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> First - the problem occurs when the holders/bulbs are completely out of the
> car connected to a 12v power source

My next step would be to start probing while the "flicker" is happening on the bench.  Does the current go up or down when the lights go out?  If it goes down, there has to be an intermittent connection somewhere, like perhaps the power lead is broken internally.  If it goes up, there must be a short in one of the holders.

> I do not recall a rubber coupler.  Without taking it out, is there a way to
> tell if I have an early or later starter?   Lucas Part number on the box was
> 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968).  

25550 is the later style starter.  Has an exposed shaft some 6" long with a big coil spring at the end.  That coil spring provides the cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the earlier starters.  The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud over the pinion gear.  In this link, the upper LH starter image is the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type.
http://goo.gl/OAVnc
(the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about the same diameter for both of them)

> Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should I just plan
> on taking on this task this Saturday. 

Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday.

>  It might be obvious if I was looking
> at the starter - but where?

Turn the pinion gear with your fingers.  One direction it should force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the Bendix first.  When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the motor (assuming you have the later type starter).  If it is at all sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem.

You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored.  It's probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the post.  The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot).

It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but hopefully that is unlikely.  Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the entire gearbox housing.

--- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 16:09:59 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR4 Finally tooting my own HORN, Triumph days of MUTE are over.
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Last fall I started trouble shooting my TR4 horn circuit to see why I wasn't
getting anything more that brief inaudible chip.

At that time I did post a request for help, and did get four excellent
responses from this list.  I investigated and tried all the suggestions,
still to no avail.  The more I measured voltage drops, resistances and
currents, the more it seemed that the OEM circuit design itself was flawed.
Just feeble. Pardon my criticism, Sir John Black.

 

A relay was needed!

 

So I lashed up some jumpers and was able to put in a trial relay without
cutting any wires in the existing harness. On this first attempt, the horn
personality changed. Now instead of one tiny peep, I got a whole series of
rapid fire little peeps.  Yes, the coil in the relay was chattering. I was
close, but gave it some more thought for another month.

 

I  sketched up a better way to connect the relay so that there was more
complete separation of the coil signal circuit and the contact power
circuit.  Then I worked on reducing it into the easiest possible
implementation, meaning cutting no existing wires, just adding jumpers with
the correct crimped connectors.

 

It worked !

 

Absolutely amazingly loud ....HOOOOOOOT !

 

A picture right now would help, but here comes a thousand words instead.
The OEM circuit has a P (purple wire) and a PB (purple wire with a black
strip).  At the site of the driver's side horn, I mounted the relay
underneath the little sheet metal stand that the horn is mounted to.  So its
hidden from view. 

 

To the extra tab connector on the P side of the horn, I ran a jumper wire to
one side of the relay coil. From the other side of the relay coil, I ran a
wire through the firewall and underneath the dash. There I found the little
three way connection point where the three PB wires meet.  I unplugged the
one going to the steering column, and connected it to this new wire coming
feeding from the relay coil.  So here we now had a signal path that when the
horn pushbutton in the steering wheel was pushed, this completed the P
circuit to ground.  The load on the P circuit was the coil. (No blue Lucas
smoke).   

 

That left how to hook up the power circuit, which was connecting the PB tab
on the driver's side horn to the first side of the relay contact, and then
another jumper from the other side of the relay contact to ground. When the
coil is energized by the signal circuit, the contact closes, and the
electricity rushes unimpeded through the horns across the contacts and
straight to ground.

 

Elegant.

 

Faithfully submitted,

 

Will Daehler

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr  3 16:00:09 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 15:33:23 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support 
Team.Net
with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html - donate 
early,
donate often ;-) ]

But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value.

What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to 
pontificate.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 19:54:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] Goodparts adjustable brackets - question
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I've been considering the adjustable trailing arm brackets sold by Goodparts
for my 72 TR6. They should allow me to get things lined up without crazy
shimming. During the frame repairs I did about 20 years ago I replaced the
rear and bottom sides of the trailing arm frame sections with lengths of 3"
angle iron. (I seem to recall shouting at the sky "Rust that you son of a
b...!") Anyway, the right side camber is a bit off on one side and the tire
seems to be farther out than on the left. I'd thought I might have the body on
the frame a bit off, but things seem OK. Thus, the adjustable brackets look
like a good idea.

Can anybody opine on their experiences with this mod? Do they stay in
position? Solidly made etc?

Mark Hooper

1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	b0X31i7BaXzEBI+Qyc4led8o+gnXWfdn0zqFPW/o=
x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d2944515cda161791
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Goodparts adjustable brackets - question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

They are a great product - well made, absolutely will hold their position -
but they are not a substitute for shims behind the brackets for toe adjustment
- if you needed those before, you will still need them - the adjustable
brackets allow for precise camber adjustment

Cheers,
Jack Mc


Sent from my iPad

On Apr 3, 2013, at 7:54 PM, Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com> wrote:

> I've been considering the adjustable trailing arm brackets sold by
Goodparts
> for my 72 TR6. They should allow me to get things lined up without crazy
> shimming. During the frame repairs I did about 20 years ago I replaced the
> rear and bottom sides of the trailing arm frame sections with lengths of 3"
> angle iron. (I seem to recall shouting at the sky "Rust that you son of a
> b...!") Anyway, the right side camber is a bit off on one side and the tire
> seems to be farther out than on the left. I'd thought I might have the body
on
> the frame a bit off, but things seem OK. Thus, the adjustable brackets look
> like a good idea.
>
> Can anybody opine on their experiences with this mod? Do they stay in
> position? Solidly made etc?
>
> Mark Hooper
>
> 1972 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 06:32:54 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 08:02:55 -0400 (EDT)
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I like the consistency.  As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change 
nothing."

Dave

In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark@bradakis.com writes: 
> But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of 
> value.
> 
> What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
> see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to 
> pontificate.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Brian Thomas <thomasb@queensu.ca>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A
Thread-Index: Ac4vBZXox54oxa6sTFWWUDNL/eseYQAZFk2AAHFJjuA=
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 12:27:39 +0000
References: <C11A4D073AAF8042BECE2B3D862F4EF80E0CF7A1@MP-DUP-MBX-02.AD.QUEENSU.CA>
	<F727DA389A8544128DE0968329B9F3A1@Datsun>
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	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=1000.0 KILL_LEVEL=6.0
	tests=BSF_RULE7568M
	Rule breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
	----------------------
	-------------------------------------------------- 0.50 BSF_RULE7568M 
	Custom Rule 7568M
Subject: Re: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded to my query regarding where the inertia reel
mounts.

... and special thanks to Dave who provided a couple of pictures.

Cheers,

Brian
_______________________________________________________________________
   Brian Thomas		     E-mail:  ThomasB@QueensU.Ca
   Holliday Point		     Phone:  613-385-1947
   Wolfe Island,  Ontario	     Toys:      54 TR2,  56 TR3,  67 TR4A,  01 XKR,
75 John Deere 920
   CANADA   K0H 2Y0

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 08:05:16 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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I would like to see more puppies and kittens.

Mike

> 
> So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support
> Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html
> - donate early, donate often ;-) ]
> 
> But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of
> value.
> 
> What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like
> to see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to
> pontificate.
> 
> mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 09:09:28 -0500
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The list's email format is perfect for me.  My only problem is searching the
archives, headers and emails don't alway match up.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 4, 2013, at 7:02 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:

I like the consistency.  As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change
nothing."

Dave

In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
mark@bradakis.com writes:
> But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of
> value.
>
> What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
> see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to
> pontificate.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 08:41:11 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 09:15:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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if it ain't broke . . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 7:02 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

I like the consistency.  As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change
nothing."

Dave

In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
mark@bradakis.com writes:
> But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of
> value.
>
> What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
> see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to
> pontificate. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 12:07:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:46:49 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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If it is not broken, do not repair it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave1massey@cs.com
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
> I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't
> change
> nothing."
> 
> Dave
> 
> In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mark@bradakis.com writes:
> > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something
> > of
> > value.
> >
> > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you
> > like to
> > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to
> > pontificate.
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 14:43:28 2013
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 16:16:36 -0400
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

"If it ain't broke..."

So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with
thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox
upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires.  You all
replaced those because the originals were broken?  None of those were
upgrades because better technology was available?

I doubt it.

The list is useful.  But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a
graphics- and photo-oriented world.  I appreciate the dialog and the
information -- best in the TR world.  But the interface is antediluvian.  A
modern forum would be much better.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> If it is not broken, do not repair it.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dave1massey@cs.com
> > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
> > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't
> > change
> > nothing."
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > mark@bradakis.com writes:
> > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something
> > > of
> > > value.
> > >
> > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you
> > > like to
> > > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to
> > > pontificate.
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 16:13:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 17:53:35 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
	<2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPK7CFAT0_G2_JvhbCDoE-aLNrLp8Xf=Xx4kzMk4RGpGycKs6g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/4/2013 4:16 PM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> The list is useful.  But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a
> graphics- and photo-oriented world.  I appreciate the dialog and the
> information -- best in the TR world.  But the interface is antediluvian.  A
> modern forum would be much better.

Yeah.  Somebody should do something like this:

http://www.team.net/forums/

That'd be better.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 16:43:22 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 22:22:04 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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>What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
>see changed, added, reworked?  

I'm thinking a recorded log-in with a sultry female voice that pouts out,  "Good afternoon, Terry.  You are a fine specimen of a man.  Every blind woman in the Western World wants you."  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:02:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after 12
years but here I am!
One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the
carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the
tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it
will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old
cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the gas
lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's
another story.
Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it will
be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the carb
to the distributor?
I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from the
tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap so
gas doesn't leak anywhere.
Hoping to receive my wire harness soon,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 18:48:07 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 19:18:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.  I just brought home a tr3b.  guy really didnbt know what he had.  no
rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since?  but b
bwas running when parkedb  donbt you just love it?

supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint.

2 questions -

they claim itbs a 59?  is that possible?  TCF 1402 L

and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover.
how do I get it open?

thanks!

ps b will post pictures later tonight.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 18:48:33 2013
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From: Loumetelko@aol.com
Full-name: Loumetelko
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:21:11 -0400 (EDT)
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But the interface is antediluvian.  A
modern forum would  be much better.
 
 
 
 
 
I will be glad when the pseudo intellectuals leave so that we unwashed  can 
continue enjoying Mark's labors just as they are.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 19:33:45 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:06:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]  The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Being able to not have to remember to change to plain text would be a plus, and uploading of pictures would be a double win.


Craig
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 19:34:42 2013
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References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 18:15:34 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave -

I don't think it can be a 59.

You can't really see much when you lift the toilet seat cover on the spare
tire lid -- try just sticking the Dzus tool deep in there and see if it
engages something.

Congrats on your find.

Geo


On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 5:18 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> hi.  I just brought home a tr3b.  guy really didnb t know what he had.  no
> rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnb t run since?  but b
> b was running when parkedb   donb t you just love it?
>
> supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint.
>
> 2 questions -
>
> they claim itb s a 59?  is that possible?  TCF 1402 L
>
> and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover.
> how do I get it open?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 19:51:04 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4BE2C73AA93148628A8C53337BEB3181@DaveLaptop>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 21:27:09 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd stick with steel under a car these days.
Copper dents way to easy. Hit a couple stones/road slag dent the pipe and it 
reduces fuel flow.
I personally used coated brake lines as fuel lines. I just cut the ends off 
where I'm using a flex hose, and or screw connections to join stock ends 
when longer runs are needed.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 8:02 PM
Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines


> List,
> I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after 
> 12
> years but here I am!
> One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the
> carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the
> tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it
> will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old
> cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the 
> gas
> lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's
> another story.
> Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it 
> will
> be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the 
> carb
> to the distributor?
> I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from 
> the
> tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap 
> so
> gas doesn't leak anywhere.
> Hoping to receive my wire harness soon,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 19:51:50 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?RGF2ZSBDb25uaXR0?=" <dconnitt@fuse.net>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:27:32 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Thoughts_on_steel_vs_copper_gas_lines?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dunno.  The copper ones on my '32 mg and '29 morris are still in fine shape.
Just checked the '39 MG TB : both copper fuel lines and the four central oiling lines are original and perfect.
Hmmmm......Just dunno....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines
Date: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 19:02


List,
I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after 12
years but here I am!
One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the
carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the
tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it
will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old
cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the gas
lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's
another story.
Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it will
be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the carb
to the distributor?
I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from the
tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap so
gas doesn't leak anywhere.
Hoping to receive my wire harness soon,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 20:06:02 2013
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	19:36:16 -0600
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:36:13 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
	<2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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	<515DF65F.2030806@charter.net>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.22.113.197 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of 
all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having 
to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a 
Captcha to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works 
that way and consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in 
which allows e-mail replies).

Personally I like the list exactly the way it is.  The inability to 
send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch 
of people from getting viruses and such.

Tony Drews

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 20:53:48 2013
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 02:27:14 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What he said.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 8:36:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
> I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of
> all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having
> to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a
> Captcha to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works
> that way and consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in
> which allows e-mail replies).
> 
> Personally I like the list exactly the way it is. The inability to
> send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch
> of people from getting viruses and such.
> 
> Tony Drews
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 21:08:10 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
	<2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 21:37:44 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I was being facetious, of course, when I demanded kittens and puppies.  I
like it just the way it is.  We can always go to Facebook for all the bells,
whistles, kittens, puppies and political discourse.

Mike

> 
> I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of
> all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having
> to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a Captcha
> to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works that way and
> consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in which allows e-
> mail replies).
> 
> Personally I like the list exactly the way it is.  The inability to
> send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch of
> people from getting viruses and such.
> 
> Tony Drews

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 21:08:56 2013
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References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun>
To: dave@ranteer.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Seeing as all the TSF and TCF cars were built between March and October 1962,
a 1959 build date just doesn't seem possible! :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 8:45 pm
Subject: [TR] tr3b


hi.  I just brought home a tr3b....they claim itbs a 59?  is that possible?
TCF 1402 L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 21:24:03 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 19:52:47 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
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Congrats on your new find. If I were doing it over, I would put a shut off
valve at the bottom of the tank. That would allow working on any part of the
system without draining the tank.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 5:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3b

hi.  I just brought home a tr3b.  guy really didnbt know what he had.  no
rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since?  but b
bwas running when parkedb  donbt you just love it?

supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint.

2 questions -

they claim itbs a 59?  is that possible?  TCF 1402 L

and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover.
how do I get it open?

thanks!

ps b will post pictures later tonight.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
	<2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPK7CFAT0_G2_JvhbCDoE-aLNrLp8Xf=Xx4kzMk4RGpGycKs6g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:00:09 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Nope, pretty much all were because something broke. Don't have much
experience with forums, aren't they basically "pull" technology - you have
to go there and see what's new? I like this list because it's a "push"
technology, if something is new it comes and tells me. Embedded
photos/graphics would be nice, but including a link to a photo sharing site
is easy enough and keeps the size of the messages small.
JMHO,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 1:17 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

"If it ain't broke..."

So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with
thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades,
with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires.  You all replaced those
because the originals were broken?  None of those were upgrades because
better technology was available?

I doubt it.

The list is useful.  But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a
graphics- and photo-oriented world.  I appreciate the dialog and the
information -- best in the TR world.  But the interface is antediluvian.  A
modern forum would be much better.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> If it is not broken, do not repair it.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dave1massey@cs.com
> > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
> > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't 
> > change nothing."
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> > mark@bradakis.com writes:
> > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something 
> > > of value.
> > >
> > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you 
> > > like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel 
> > > free to pontificate.
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 21:52:58 2013
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From: "Roger Wilson" <rjwilson1250@gmail.com>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:23:26 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac4xlsknO+qpcTGZTVas9sneiiPA4AAFbSXw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>From my information TCF 1402 L would be a 1962, manufactured after May when
they started installing the 2138cc  engine and all-synchro box

Roger
'60 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 5:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3b

hi.  I just brought home a tr3b.  guy really didnbt know what he had.  no
rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since?  but b
bwas running when parkedb  donbt you just love it?

supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint.

2 questions -

they claim itbs a 59?  is that possible?  TCF 1402 L

and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover.
how do I get it open?

thanks!

ps b will post pictures later tonight.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjwilson1250@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 22:08:03 2013
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	Triumphs@autox.team.net; Thu, 04 Apr 2013 22:40:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Don Hiscock'" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com>
	<2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
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	<000101ce31a9$af674da0$0e35e8e0$@net>
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 23:40:05 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQL6ZjEI073NvCA4/6Q477913FNEsQF3r/BqAdz7jcsBhu5LM5ZHtL6w
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree on both points.   I belong to several forums for a variety of
topics.   It is just too time consuming to go out and find nothing of
interest or value.  The m-list is simple (like the TR) and easy to view,
reply, delete.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:00 PM
To: 'Don Hiscock'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

Nope, pretty much all were because something broke. Don't have much
experience with forums, aren't they basically "pull" technology - you have
to go there and see what's new? I like this list because it's a "push"
technology, if something is new it comes and tells me. Embedded
photos/graphics would be nice, but including a link to a photo sharing site
is easy enough and keeps the size of the messages small.
JMHO,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 1:17 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

"If it ain't broke..."

So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with
thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades,
with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires.  You all replaced those
because the originals were broken?  None of those were upgrades because
better technology was available?

I doubt it.

The list is useful.  But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a
graphics- and photo-oriented world.  I appreciate the dialog and the
information -- best in the TR world.  But the interface is antediluvian.  A
modern forum would be much better.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> If it is not broken, do not repair it.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dave1massey@cs.com
> > To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM
> > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
> > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't 
> > change nothing."
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> > mark@bradakis.com writes:
> > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something 
> > > of value.
> > >
> > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you 
> > > like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel 
> > > free to pontificate.
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr  4 23:05:21 2013
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From: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 21:35:06 -0700
References: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? (Don Hiscock)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Yeah.  Somebody should do something like this:
> http://www.team.net/forums/

That is fantastic.

I really love what Mark has done, but it's time to move
to a forum where one can post photos and follow threads
easily, I'm glad Mark has implemented this on team.net,
but we need to move the entire mailing list population
over to the forums for this to work.

And we can satisfy the old school folks who want a digest
if Mark was able to install something like:

  http://phpbbservices.com/digests_wp/


Dave

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison           http://GetDave.com/                 415.341.5555
----- You can have my UNIX when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers -------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 01:07:16 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 23:41:31 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac4xdLhmPtB6DsbDQ32nm1SEe9N0mgANAb2wAAeGskA=
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Don't 
> have much experience with forums, aren't they basically 
> "pull" technology - you have to go there and see what's new? 

All of the forums that I visit offer some sort of "push" option.  Most you
can configure to deliver an email with the contents of either the first post
in a new thread, or each post in the thread.  Some also offer 'digest' mode.

The Stag forum even has an email list more-or-less integrated with it.  It
used to work quite well, but then one admin got tired of it and somehow it
was never quite the same under the new admin.

Which is one of the things I really like about Mark's lists; they always
work the same.  Don't have to keep re-learning where the knobs are and what
they do.  Kind of like the old Chrysler "push button" transmissions, which
were great transmissions (for their day) but if you learned to drive with
one and then got in a car with a regular PRNDL, you could be left wondering
how to push the 'Drive' button.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 01:38:42 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 00:07:21 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac4xlH/Ww/c05/KgRkqxUhKUdVKRGwANIpiQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the 
> fuel pump to the carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump 
> to the line going back to the tank (about a foot I guess). I 
> am thinking I should use a steel line as it will be less 

Steel was original, and what I would be inclined to stick with.

One problem with "copper" is that nothing is really made with pure copper.
And what alloy you get is important to things like resistance to work
hardening (which can lead to cracks) and so on.

>  Also, what dia. should I use for 
> the steel vacuum line from the carb to the distributor?

The size isn't critical, just whatever works easily with your connections.
IIRC the original line on a 4A was about 3/16" od and had push-on fittings.
I did use copper there (alloy 122 I think) because I couldn't easily source
steel line in the right size for my TR3A (with 1/8" compression fittings) at
the time.  Now I believe the usual suspects carry it.

> I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the 
> pipe from the tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the 
> pump) for the long winter nap so gas doesn't leak anywhere.

That was standard equipment on the early cars, but the valve was mounted to
the frame and had a hard connection to the line to the tank (so you could
turn the valve off to replace the soft line to the pump).  Seems like a
great idea to me; not sure if they discontinued it to reduce costs or
because the valve they used was more prone to leak than anything else <g>

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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 My TR3 is still all as it was.  That is the whole point of a car that old.
If I wanted something more modern I would get a TR6 and install an electric
fuel pump, and electric fan, electronic ignition and a gear reduction starter.
Actually, I've done all that.  The point is there is room in my garage for
both and there is room on the internet for both forums and this list.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>


"If it ain't broke..."

So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with
thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox
upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires.  You all
replaced those because the originals were broken?  None of those were
upgrades because better technology was available?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 08:02:06 2013
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From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:40:56 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] : Tr3-b
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Hello , my is a 1962 Tr3-b . Comm # is TCF1222LO. Car is very nice and is
equipped with a judson supercharger. Car will be for sale in a few weeks.
Larry Schwartz. l1j1s@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 08:32:34 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 10:02:46 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I like the current format. When I need help or suggestions, they show up
within a day or less from when I post to the list. Also, I can very quickly
decide if other subject areas are something for me to follow or not. It's
simple, quick  and to the point. Thanks to Mark for his time in running the
show.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 5:33 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support
Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html -
donate early, donate often ;-) ]

But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value.

What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to
pontificate.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 09:48:49 2013
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From: Jeremiah Curry <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:14:14 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I prefer the list format when asking a question and the forum format when
searching for something.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
Sent: b4/b5/b2013 8:30 AM
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>; "'Triumphs'"
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

I like the current format. When I need help or suggestions, they show up
within a day or less from when I post to the list. Also, I can very quickly
decide if other subject areas are something for me to follow or not. It's
simple, quick  and to the point. Thanks to Mark for his time in running the
show.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 5:33 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support
Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html -
donate early, donate often ;-) ]

But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value.

What do you like about the current Team.Net setup?  What would you like to
see changed, added, reworked?  Comments, complaints, feel free to
pontificate.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah@curryclan.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 10:05:32 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 11:44:03 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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My opinion. List good, forum bad. Our local british car club has had a list
going for years. Not gobs of activity but pretty much weekly postings.  We
tried switching over to a forum last year. The silence on the forum was
defining. After a few months we switched back to the list and activity came
back. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks I guess.

Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 12:17:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'trmarty@hotmail.com'" <trmarty@hotmail.com>,  'Triumph List'
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I understand that experience Marty. I like to see the conversation going on,
even if I have nothing to contribute or request at the moment. It's a bit of a
virtual club, formed by people with a real common interest. And the occasional
off-topics are fun to watch and sometimes participate in. In a forum, I jump
in to find some data and then get out. Not a community, just a reference.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: April-05-13 11:44 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??

My opinion. List good, forum bad. Our local british car club has had a list
going for years. Not gobs of activity but pretty much weekly postings.  We
tried switching over to a forum last year. The silence on the forum was
defining. After a few months we switched back to the list and activity came
back. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks I guess.

Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 10:50:38 2013
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:15:23 -0700
Thread-Topic: The good, the bad, the ??
Thread-Index: Ac4yGMYKmWgcWKEFSpe6zAUy4tcThw==
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Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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I too like the current streaming style of this list.  No need to go to a
forum, pick a topic, find a thread, etc.  Here it all runs along like a stream
of consciousness.  Plus I learn about things I had not thought of, and have
used things I have followed without needing only to use them later.
Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 10:51:26 2013
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 12:25:20 -0400
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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"If it ain't broke..." 
 
Gear Reduction Starter - YES.
First - When I acquired my TR6 I had know idea how many "starts" were left
on the almost 40 year old starter.
Second - Gear Reduction starter sure works well in sub-freezing weather.
The original starter is safely stored.
Regards,
Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 11:05:39 2013
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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 12:44:49 -0400
References: <da4f82a.1ce3219.4cededbc.6898@indiefilmnet.com>
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On  5 Apr, 2013, at 12:17 PM, Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com> wrote:

> I understand that experience Marty. I like to see the conversation going
on,
> even if I have nothing to contribute or request at the moment. It's a bit of
a
> virtual club, formed by people with a real common interest. And the
occasional
> off-topics are fun to watch and sometimes participate in. In a forum, I
jump
> in to find some data and then get out. Not a community, just a reference.

I come at this from a strange perspective: a university professor.  To me that
are two different products from this list: 1) I have problem X, can someone
tell me how to fix it, and 2) wow, I never thought about X that way.

To me they are both of valuable, but for the most part, I probably learn
something weekly from the "I never thought about X that way" and that
sometimes helps me avoid a potential problem before it happens.

JAW

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 12:52:37 2013
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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 14:35:00 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss
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Folks - 

   I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013.  It's for my
TR6 

but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc.  Well, it doesn't fit a TR6.
The glass was 

cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a
replacement & 

it is hoped that it will fit.  Just a word of caution.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr  5 14:08:19 2013
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Windshield from Moss
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Dennis,

To late for you but I got ws glass for both my 4 and 6 from TRF and the 
fit was perfect. If the 2nd glass is no better you may want to ask for a 
refund and get your glass from TRF.

Bob

On 04/05/2013 02:35 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:
> Folks -
>
>     I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013.  It's for my
> TR6
>
> but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc.  Well, it doesn't fit a TR6.
> The glass was
>
> cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a
> replacement &
>
> it is hoped that it will fit.  Just a word of caution.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 19:22:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Starter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I pulled the started this evening - not as difficult as I thought it would be. (pulled carbs and came up through the top rather than below)
it is dated July 65 not 68 - not that it matters.
 
On the bench - the starter turns like a champ but there is no movement of the bendix (and no 'launching'). Is it supposed to pull back into the ring or push out.  The gear is extended from the starter body 

my starter:
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Information%20Items/Lucas25550BStarter.jpg.html
 
image from web with bendix partially back toward body.
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Lucas25550BStarterBendix.jpg.html
 
I tried to move it but nothing...  but I am not sure which way and how to turn it.
Is that the issue.  it is stuck 'out'?  Suggestions?
 
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 04/04/13, Randall 
wrote:

> I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way to
> tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box was
> 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968). 

25550 is the later style starter. Has an exposed shaft some 6" long with a big coil spring at the end. That coil spring provides the cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the earlier starters. The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud over the pinion gear. In this link, the upper LH starter image is the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type.
http://goo.gl/OAVnc
(the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about the same diameter for both of them)

> Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should I just plan
> on taking on this task this Saturday. 

Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday.

> It might be obvious if I was looking
> at the starter - but where?

Turn the pinion gear with your fingers. One direction it should force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the Bendix first. When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the motor (assuming you have the later type starter). If it is at all sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem.

You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored. It's probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the post. The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot).

It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but hopefully that is unlikely. Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the entire gearbox housing.

--- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <da4f82a.1ce3219.4cededbc.6898@indiefilmnet.com>
	<A04AB398-2D83-4695-ACDC-DA5DCE32A970@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 17:38:21 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I sent this once, but don't think it went through (my mistake, nothing wrong 
with the list)

Mark has stuck with the basic concept and just kept making it work better
(Unlike some software service providers who seem to think they need to 
reinvent
the wheel every 18 months, and make us relearn how to do the things we want
to do and could do fine on the old system) , I remember when there was a
significant and somewhat unrpedictable lag in posts to the list  In the past
sometimes I would see responses to my question before I saw my question on
the list, but it works pretty quickly and consistently now.

For those that want forum style they are out there to use, as pointed out 
Mark has created on, there is the British Car Forum, and others marque 
specific, and many of my fellow listers use them too, I too like the the 
"push" technology of the
list, the daily "conversation" with my list buddies, who I feel I know and 
respect, even though I have never met most of them face to face, and I guess 
I feel it is somewhat appropriate that we soldier along with (ahem) old
fashioned e-mail while we soldier along with our old tech but oh so charming 
LBCs.

If you need to send a pic you can do a link, or send a pic direct to the 
person who needs it, I am fairly new to the triumph list, but have been on 
the Healey list for quite a while, the lists are a great resource.

Greg Lemon
TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com><2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><CAPK7CFAT0_G2_JvhbCDoE-aLNrLp8Xf=Xx4kzMk4RGpGycKs6g@mail.gmail.com><515DF65F.2030806@charter.net>
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Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 22:02:35 +0100
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My sentiments exactly.

Adrian !966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:36 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ??


>I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of all 
>new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having to log 
>into the forum and especially without needing to enter a Captcha to finish 
>a post - one of the forums in my work life works that way and consequently 
>isn't used as much as another forum I'm in which allows e-mail replies).
>
> Personally I like the list exactly the way it is.  The inability to send 
> attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch of people 
> from getting viruses and such.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6226 - Release Date: 04/05/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 09:25:05 2013
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Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2013 10:16:01 -0500
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <19360428.381549.1365207769928.JavaMail.root@vznit170190>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.22.113.197 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Starter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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It appears to be in the proper position.  With the shaft sticking out 
the right side of the motor (as you have it in the picture), if you 
try to move the top of the gear toward you (anti-clockwise if you're 
looking at the motor with the shaft extended toward yourself)), the 
gear should move down the shaft toward the starter motor before it 
turns the shaft.  You should be able to push the gear toward the 
motor and have it slide down the shaft while turning a bit pretty easily.

Tony D

At 07:22 PM 4/5/2013, Carl TR wrote:
>I pulled the started this evening - not as difficult as I thought it 
>would be. (pulled carbs and came up through the top rather than below)
>it is dated July 65 not 68 - not that it matters.
>
>On the bench - the starter turns like a champ but there is no 
>movement of the bendix (and no 'launching'). Is it supposed to pull 
>back into the ring or push out.  The gear is extended from the starter body
>
>my starter:
>http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Information%20Items/Lucas25550BStarter.jpg.html
>
>image from web with bendix partially back toward body.
>http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Lucas25550BStarterBendix.jpg.html
>
>I tried to move it but nothing...  but I am not sure which way and 
>how to turn it.
>Is that the issue.  it is stuck 'out'?  Suggestions?
>
>Thanks
>
>Carl
>1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
>mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
>Tampa, Florida
>
>
>On 04/04/13, Randall
>wrote:
>
> > I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way to
> > tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box was
> > 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968).
>
>25550 is the later style starter. Has an exposed shaft some 6" long 
>with a big coil spring at the end. That coil spring provides the 
>cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the 
>earlier starters. The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud 
>over the pinion gear. In this link, the upper LH starter image is 
>the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type.
>http://goo.gl/OAVnc
>(the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about 
>the same diameter for both of them)
>
> > Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should 
> I just plan
> > on taking on this task this Saturday.
>
>Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday.
>
> > It might be obvious if I was looking
> > at the starter - but where?
>
>Turn the pinion gear with your fingers. One direction it should 
>force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the 
>Bendix first. When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the 
>motor (assuming you have the later type starter). If it is at all 
>sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem.
>
>You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables 
>to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored. It's 
>probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make 
>connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the 
>post. The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the 
>starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot).
>
>It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but 
>hopefully that is unlikely. Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive 
>many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited 
>through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the 
>entire gearbox housing.
>
>--- Randall
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 14:16:53 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun>
	<000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 14:50:07 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
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now it makes sense.

the vin tag
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG
  clearly says 59!  funny.

for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/

no sidecurtains.  oh, well.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 14:48:40 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 15:28:11 -0500
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Dave ,
How did you manage to get 1959 plates for a 1962 car?

Looks like a fun project.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 6, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

now it makes sense.

the vin tag
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG
clearly says 59!  funny.

for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/

no sidecurtains.  oh, well.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 15:33:16 -0500
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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That car is a dead ringer for Tarbaby when I brought him home six years ago.
Looks like you have a good base for a fine restoration.
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 6, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

now it makes sense.

the vin tag
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG
clearly says 59!  funny.

for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/

no sidecurtains.  oh, well.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 15:28:58 2013
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You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it seems.  

Question to the list:  Weren't the original engines painted black with, I forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color underneath?  

Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one point?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home Friday, the top was down!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 16:28:21 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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they believed it was a 59, so they got 59 plates.  and this all happened 
years ago.

-----Original Message----- 
From: WBEECH
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 4:28 PM
To: Dave
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b

Dave ,
How did you manage to get 1959 plates for a 1962 car?

Looks like a fun project. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 16:28:54 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:16:43 -0400
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thanks, I think, for pointing that out.  that car has obviously been 
restored.  and, most unfortunately, they painted the engine red.  perhaps 
they thought it was roses . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 5:25 PM
To: Dave
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b


You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it 
seems.

Question to the list:  Weren't the original engines painted black with, I 
forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color 
underneath?

Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one 
point?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home 
Friday, the top was down! 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 17:29:55 2013
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 I knew of one pretty original TR3B out of Long Island whose long-time owner
swore the red engine was as originally delivered. I've heard other instances
of this as well, so who knows?

As for the "1959" on the commission number plate, I think that simply
indicated the year that that particular Corporation was formed (possibly
having something to do with the end of the agreement to build Ferguson
tractors or something like that? I know I've seen references buried somewhere
in one of the Triumph history books).

Nice looking 3B regardless!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>


thanks, I think, for pointing that out.  that car has obviously been
restored.  and, most unfortunately, they painted the engine red.  perhaps
they thought it was roses . . .

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 19:28:26 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:24:43 -0700
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:24:43 -0700
	FILETIME=[AC09D200:01CE332E]
Subject: [TR] windshiedl from Moss
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Sorry, but I have to...
I have had two windshields from off the shelf put into my TR6.  One last
summer.  Fit was perfect.  Installed by glass shop in about 20 minutes.  I'm
not saying things don't get screwed up, but... Does or did the windshield have
a manufacturer's part number label on it?
Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 20:57:18 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 22:56:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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List,
Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a TR4A?
It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't
remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the closest
place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount but the
angle of the bracket is off a bit.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Just got a set of Miata seats!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr  6 21:15:00 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 22:13:41 -0500
References: <F7C6F90BBA8647CB8848E137181965BE@DaveLaptop>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

The bracket mounts under the right-side foot of the radiator.


On Apr 6, 2013, at 9:56 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> List,
> Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a TR4A?
> It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't
> remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the
closest
> place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount but
the
> angle of the bracket is off a bit.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
>
> Just got a set of Miata seats!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 06:48:18 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "ADRIAN DIX-DYER"
  <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
References: <F7C6F90BBA8647CB8848E137181965BE@DaveLaptop><40AF1371-714E-4BCF-8FE9-0832A6FAE2CB@genfiniti.com>
	<CAJbHsd_SSpb3JH67WW6Jxg+T7txoFPeCojs=fXkquyCyEQ0XAw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 08:49:42 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Adrian,
I was telling Guy yesturday that I didn't think of "under" the radiator on
that bracket.. My oldest grand daughter was about 3 when I bought the car, now
she is 15-1/2 and wanting to know when I will have it done :)..
Today I hope to finish installing the transmission tunnel. (Wish that was
done).
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
Cincinnati, Ohio USA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER
  To: G.D. Huggins
  Cc: Dave Connitt ; triumphs@autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 6:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A


  Yes Guy is quite right the bracket mounts on the drivers side of the
radiator in UK passenger side in US.

  Adrian TR4A CT64396 O
  Wales UK.


  On 7 April 2013 04:13, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:

    Dave,

    The bracket mounts under the right-side foot of the radiator.



    On Apr 6, 2013, at 9:56 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

    > List,
    > Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a
TR4A?
    > It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't
    > remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the
    closest
    > place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount
but
    the
    > angle of the bracket is off a bit.
    > Thanks,
    > Dave Connitt
    > '67 TR4A IRS
    > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
    >
    > Just got a set of Miata seats!
    >
    > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
    >
    > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    > Unsubscribe/Manage:

    http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com


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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 07:38:55 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 09:40:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
I have another routing question.
Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission tunnel, I
noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it would
be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel.
Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of the
tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall. Also,
looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have three
holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield wiper
wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the
speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 08:18:04 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <27E422DF4B774A51A441DF20CCE1D2BA@DaveLaptop>
	<CANzE1bHyX3YA=d+JgJ_Q90Bu3BVcyd25gp7RWbmGRuktU81H7g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 10:19:31 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks George..

George Hahn brought up a good point.. I don't have a overdrive.
Dave Connitt
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Geo Hahn
  To: Dave Connitt
  Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:02 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A


  Dave -

  You probably want to mention if you have an overdrive gearbox and if you do,
whether or not you are using an angle drive (short cable) or no angle drive
(long cable).

  Geo



  On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

    List,
    I have another routing question.
    Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission
tunnel, I
    noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it
would
    be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel.
    Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of the
    tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall. Also,
    looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have
three
    holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield wiper
    wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the
    speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct?
    Thanks,
    Dave Connitt
    '67 TR4A IRS
    http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

    ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 11:21:06 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Sun, 07 Apr 2013 12:19:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun>
	<484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:19:44 -0400
Thread-index: AQLdz+ajG1kmfAkF9By2REXebHIV8JarxJJw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not from a 3B but a very late 3A...

Markings as original: 

http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/00-EngineMarkings.
jpg.html 

 

I masked off the lettering when I painted the engine and then repainted them
trying somewhat successfully to match the brush strokes.  

http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/05-EngineRe-marked
.jpg.html 

 

I have seen one other '3 engine painted red.  According to the owner it had
a different numbering code that indicated it was factory rebuilt.  I can't
remember for sure what was different about the engine number.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 5:26 PM
To: Dave
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b

 

You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it
seems.  

 

Question to the list:  Weren't the original engines painted black with, I
forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color
underneath?  

 

Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one
point?

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home
Friday, the top was down!

 


 


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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 11:36:07 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>,	"'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <27E422DF4B774A51A441DF20CCE1D2BA@DaveLaptop>
	<CANzE1bHyX3YA=d+JgJ_Q90Bu3BVcyd25gp7RWbmGRuktU81H7g@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:35:04 -0400
Thread-index: AQGY0RZPLUGMQtgKn7+yjABrUSXPYAG8U79kAkflKQaZFaZsMIAAAcwA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Duh = tr4a  not tr3...   but I believe they are very similar.  Tach & temp
gauge low - speedo up near brake cylinders.
C


-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 1:33 PM
To: 'Dave Connitt'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'; 'Geo Hahn'
Subject: RE: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A

Offering kudos to one of our own....  TeriAnn Wakeman has a diagram of the
bulkhead(firewall) holes    http://www.tr3a.info/Bulkhead.htm 

(You have been quiet  TeriAnn...  out taking photos of the beautiful
mountains?)

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:20 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; Geo Hahn
Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A

Thanks George..

George Hahn brought up a good point.. I don't have a overdrive.
Dave Connitt
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Geo Hahn
  To: Dave Connitt
  Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:02 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A


  Dave -

  You probably want to mention if you have an overdrive gearbox and if you
do, whether or not you are using an angle drive (short cable) or no angle
drive (long cable).

  Geo



  On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

    List,
    I have another routing question.
    Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission
tunnel, I
    noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it
would
    be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel.
    Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of
the
    tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall.
Also,
    looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have
three
    holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield
wiper
    wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the
    speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct?
    Thanks,
    Dave Connitt
    '67 TR4A IRS
    http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 12:17:58 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 14:16:50 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac4zvBLQ7or5BJXeRGyK4EPi91e9vg==
Cc: peterara@msn.com
Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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"Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com> wrote:

>snip

>Does or did the windshield have a manufacturer's part number label on it?

 

Peter - 

   I don't know - I delivered the windshield in the box to the 

Restoration shop. They started to install it and then noted that 

it would not fit. They took pictures of the old windshield laid 

over the new one to send to Moss and the difference was obvious.  

Moss even said they did NOT want it back - they are sending another.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 12:28:45 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:23:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Cc: peterara@msn.com
Subject: Re: [TR] Windshield from Moss
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 If it make you feel any better, I purchased an original XXX from NOS liquidators for installation in my 1972 TR6, it was broken in the process of the install and had to buy one from Moss.


If it was me, I would buy from TRF.


Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA
 
 
On 04/07/13, Dennis Culligan<dctr6@optonline.net> wrote:
 
"Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com> wrote:

>snip

>Does or did the windshield have a manufacturer's part number label on it?

 

Peter - 

 I don't know - I delivered the windshield in the box to the 

Restoration shop. They started to install it and then noted that 

it would not fit. They took pictures of the old windshield laid 

over the new one to send to Moss and the difference was obvious. 

Moss even said they did NOT want it back - they are sending another.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **




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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 12:59:35 2013
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I am a digest member who has been a list lurker and very occasional poster for
approximately 15 years.  I can say that I would not change the format.  I read
the list posts for the same reason that I occasionally stroll through home
centers.  I like to find solutions to problems that I don't yet have.  Forums
just don't give that same broad view of Triumph ownership.  Just my $.02.
David Gill
1976 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 19:52:04 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 19:49:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A
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For sale. 1967 TR4A. British Racing Green. Pirellibs. AM/FM, New Battery.
World Hub Caps. 13,444 miles. All receipts. located in Calgary. This is a
really nice model that just requires tlc  $16,000 OBO. Mike. 403-281-0363.
coefront@shaw.ca

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr  7 20:15:29 2013
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One of these days I'd like to get another 4A, IRS or not.  But first I need
to get rid of several projects I already have on hand.

mjb.

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These are the reasons that I prefer the list too. There's a wealth of  
information, answers to problems that I have not had yet, that comes  
to me with little time or effort on my part. A quick scan of the  
digest, and I save useful info to a simple database for future use.

Allen
On Apr 5, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> I too like the current streaming style of this list.  No need to go  
> to a
> forum, pick a topic, find a thread, etc.  Here it all runs along  
> like a stream
> of consciousness.  Plus I learn about things I had not thought of,  
> and have
> used things I have followed without needing only to use them later.
> Peter

> I come at this from a strange perspective: a university professor.   
> To me that
> are two different products from this list: 1) I have problem X, can  
> someone
> tell me how to fix it, and 2) wow, I never thought about X that way.
>
> To me they are both of valuable, but for the most part, I probably  
> learn
> something weekly from the "I never thought about X that way" and that
> sometimes helps me avoid a potential problem before it happens.
>
> JAW
>
> John Wise

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:11:21 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links
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List:

 

When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links,
available from Moss at the time.  The car handled beautifully and I had
hoped to do the same with the next candidate.  Unfortunately I cannot find
any.  Does anyone know where I can get a pair?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 08:34:41 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:33:29 -0400
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Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6?
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I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6?  Thanks!
Andrew Uprichard

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:59:29 -0500
Thread-index: Ac40Zfb+n/yeDBH4Q3KSjmkK1peEqQAA37SQ
Subject: Re: [TR] H6 or HS6?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That would be the H6, Front Carb, the style used on late TR3A-B & Early TR4
cars. 
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:33 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6?

I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6?  Thanks!
Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:32:57 -0500
Thread-index: Ac40YvJE0Ki/3W2lTmKgwOmLkbQ7swACMHkg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

ISTR that using the vertical link from an early TR4 achived this.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:11 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links

List:

 

When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links,
available from Moss at the time.  The car handled beautifully and I had
hoped to do the same with the next candidate.  Unfortunately I cannot find
any.  Does anyone know where I can get a pair?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 08:52:21 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] H6 or HS6?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net>wrote:

> I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6?



And I think that should be AU*C*.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 12:17:42 2013
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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>, Triumph List
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Andrew-

Moss Europe still shows the negative camber links available, pn TT3003.

Regards
Randy


>>
> When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links,
> available from Moss at the time. The car handled beautifully and I had
> hoped to do the same with the next candidate. Unfortunately I cannot find
> any. Does anyone know where I can get a pair?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Heglund, Davis (ETS-Elec)" <davis.heglund@honeywell.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: re: The Good, the Bad...
Thread-Index: Ac40hZjuyzQmVj4BSaijr50DDCboZw==
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 18:19:26 +0000
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Subject: Re: [TR] The Good, the Bad...
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This may not be a democracy, but, I vote to leave the list as is. Never had
any issues opening up links to files I was interested in.
I like being able to scan the subject list for interesting topics, then
continuing on to the text, or deleting as desired.
I don't post very often, but since I donated (a little) to Mark's Guiness
fund, felt I could cast a vote with a clear conscience.

Dave Heglund   '69 GT6 (somewhere in my garage)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Loumetelko@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [TR] H6 or HS6?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I should  know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6?  Thanks!
Andrew  Uprichard



Visually there is much difference between the H6 and the HS6.  The H6  was 
used on all of the side screen cars as well the early versions of the  TR4.  
Later 4s and early 4As had the Stromberg CD-175.  With the  introduction of 
the 4A came the longer and slightly curved intake.  When  Triumph wanted to 
fit the H6 (at approximately CT or CTC62000) on the 4A, they  found that 
the longer intake resulted in the air cleaner banging against the  right inner 
fender.
 
All that said the visual difference is the length of the distance between  
the butterfly and the air cleaner.  The HS6 was only used on the later 4As  
with, I guess the S standing for "short" throat.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 13:58:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Subject: The good, the bad, the ??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List!
Well I thought that i was reading the latest TR Digest, but then I
just receive #118. I see that this topic is not on that one. So somehow I
didn't get #117 & I checked the Spam folder. I have no idea how that happened.
 
Anyways, I know it's late to put this in, but I do agree with the list vs
form style. I, like Peter, do feel that the threads FLOW. I'm glad you pointed
that out, because that explains why I don't check out the 'British Form'.
There isn't that 'Family' touch of togetherness. I do agree that's wise for
mark NOT to change the format. Keep it as it is.
 
I find it much more
enjoyable to read this style, because you can look & Do NOT have to
participate.
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 14:16:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Subject: Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List!
Well, as I remember it, the OD tranny has the cable go down the
bulkhead to cross over the tranny, down along the right side of the tranny &
Into the angle drive.
 
The No OD goes down the bulkhead 7 along the left side
of the tranny, then crosses UNDER the tranny (in front of the tranny mount) &
into the tranny (NO Angle Drive).
 
If I'm wrong, I'm sorry, & I know this
list well enough that they will feel FREE to E-mail me to tell me the "Right
Way"!
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 17:07:01 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac40pWR9vcWdbuSGRdeOmdsvtESOew==
Subject: [TR] 60's icon passes
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless "Beach....."
movies with Frankie & Annette.  Just read that she passed away today.
 
Never saw her in a TR, but who cares.
 
 BB

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 16:28:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2013 18:27:28 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [TR] 60's icon passes
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Yeah,

And believe it or not she was born in Utica, NY, about 3 miles from my 
home when I was growing up. I dont think she stayed in CNY long though.

Bob

On 04/08/2013 06:07 PM, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless "Beach....."
> movies with Frankie & Annette.  Just read that she passed away today.
>   
> Never saw her in a TR, but who cares.
>   
>   BB

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 20:31:50 2013
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From: Robert Jones <rjones@wfeca.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 21:30:34 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8626,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-04-09_01:2013-04-09,2013-04-09,1970-01-01
	signatures=0
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Subject: [TR] Thermostats
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

HI

I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 degrees f and one
that opens at 179 degrees.  Any suggestions as to which one I use.  The car is
in Florida and has a TR3 engine with alloy radiator.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr  8 21:16:01 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 22:06:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] cockpit covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.  I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that
completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains.

does anyone have a link to this site?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 04:35:52 2013
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From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: "Robert Jones" <rjones@wfeca.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 11:35:51 +0100
Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As I recall the recommended temp range for most cars of 50/60s era and later 
would be 180 so 179 would seem right. Sometimes a different temp would be 
recommended for winter and summer same as oil viscosity. Not exactly sure of 
the temp recommendation for the TR3.
The lower rated of the two you have is the type that would probably be 
originally fitted to diesel engine cars and trucks where the requirement is 
for the stat to open earlier owing to the extra heat generated by much 
higher compression pressures. Also it is a possible short term fix if a 
petrol powered car overheats easily. The right opening temp improves running 
efficiency and economy. Ideally the TR engine requires a skirted thermostat 
to restrict the flow though the bypass.
On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows type 
thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not like to risk 
it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been manufactured 40+ years ago 
and fit a 'Waxstat' type with a suitably modded skirt. Many ideas of how to 
do this have been discussed on the 'List' over the years.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Jones" <rjones@wfeca.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 3:30 AM
Subject: [TR] Thermostats


> HI
>
> I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 degrees f and 
> one
> that opens at 179 degrees.  Any suggestions as to which one I use.  The 
> car is
> in Florida and has a TR3 engine with alloy radiator.
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6231 - Release Date: 04/07/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D1ADD6E532EE4A159BF4A7559D956F3F@Datsun>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 08:50:48 -0400
	aX5oS1L8gSDJ8ELtV13NRR2EOh4DR9xYM47MRHJx4X+CIPLwBY
	7qxAE8s4XqMrF0bRpELtoPUiNk4cZT5O2KIdFu5EI7OnMViYgb
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	E+cuWhictuocHDTmFs7x/yl2OjVpKavQUvvUXuBFCdQJ1EYGzU 5m70jp63aQvZQ==
Subject: Re: [TR] cockpit covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Moss is were I got mine

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29544&SortOrder=10


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 11:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] cockpit covers

hi.  I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that
completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains.

does anyone have a link to this site?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 06:56:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 05:55:08 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130328 Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net>
	<0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC>
Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/9/13 3:35 AM, Dixie4 wrote:
> On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows 
> type thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not 
> like to risk it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been 
> manufactured 40+ years ago
Really?  I had not heard of that nor experienced it. Both my cars came 
with bellows type thermostats.  I have had the Land Rover for 35 years 
as of last March and the TR3 since 1986 and have yet to experience a 
thermostat failure.

I hope metal parts do not go bad sitting on a shelf in a protected 
environment as I have a lot of NLA spares for my cars sitting on 
shelves, including at least 5 new Smiths thermostats.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 07:00:59 2013
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From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice>
	<51634450.8020709@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 08:59:45 -0400
Thread-Index: AQKrI1cDx+dI92d6bQVUrSu5PvkKvQJONIgllwGLIiA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] 60's icon passes
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Having grown up near Utica I also felt that connection, along with having a
heck of a crush on her when watching the MM Club.  It' sad to see the video
of what MS did to her, but she never lost her inner beauty.

Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 6:27 PM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 60's icon passes

Yeah,

And believe it or not she was born in Utica, NY, about 3 miles from my home
when I was growing up. I dont think she stayed in CNY long though.

Bob

On 04/08/2013 06:07 PM, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless
"Beach....."
> movies with Frankie & Annette.  Just read that she passed away today.
>   
> Never saw her in a TR, but who cares.
>   
>   BB

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot@citlink.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 08:39:34 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Robert Jones'" <rjones@wfeca.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 07:38:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac40ylS85SFP9gS8TBGRW9IVq1vWfwAZN2RQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 
> degrees f and one that opens at 179 degrees.  Any suggestions 
> as to which one I use.  The car is in Florida and has a TR3 
> engine with alloy radiator.

If I was going to use a bellows thermostat in FL, I would definitely go with
the 160F (as original).  The bellows move relatively slow (compared to the
later wax capsule type), so they won't be fully open until a substantially
higher temperature.

According to the Bentley, the early bellows-type thermostat started to open
at 70C (158F) and wasn't fully open until 92C (197F).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 09:06:00 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 10:04:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] car cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

any recommendations for an inside only tr3 car cover?  just like to keep it
protected a little in the garage

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 10:29:40 2013
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From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net><0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC>
	<51640FAC.4010908@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 17:30:23 +0100
Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I did say it was on a personal note as I have never had much luck with the 
bellows variety, almost every car I bought in my younger days had a faulty 
one. It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax 
type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new 
improved. I do not know the answer.
Randall has pointed out that the bellows type open slower so this may be a 
factor to take into account.
As an aside I do not remember seeing a production skirted wax type 
thermostat. I am sure someone will tell me if I am mistaken.

Adrian
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats


> On 4/9/13 3:35 AM, Dixie4 wrote:
>> On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows type 
>> thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not like to 
>> risk it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been manufactured 40+ 
>> years ago
> Really?  I had not heard of that nor experienced it. Both my cars came 
> with bellows type thermostats.  I have had the Land Rover for 35 years as 
> of last March and the TR3 since 1986 and have yet to experience a 
> thermostat failure.
>
> I hope metal parts do not go bad sitting on a shelf in a protected 
> environment as I have a lot of NLA spares for my cars sitting on shelves, 
> including at least 5 new Smiths thermostats.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6233 - Release Date: 04/08/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 13:41:57 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Empty trailer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know this is a long shot but is anyone coming through San Antonio with an
empty trailer headed toward Fort Worth?

Thx,
Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<CADm3DLEnuLbEg7aci=f3gUT7B6WXyN8STEC5zKajiUcYuj0PuQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<6E7AE38417834F80988CEB4E0243967A@DellLaptop>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 15:30:09 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Bob Danielson <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] cockpit covers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh well, would have been nice if it was water proof.  Tonneaus are pretty
good for rain but something similar to what Moss sells that is water proof
would be the cat's meow :)

Brad


On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> wrote:

>   Brad... they are not waterproof....more like water resistant..... water
> will pool on them but eventually it will soak through.
>
> Bob
>
> www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff
> CVJs
> And more....
>
>  *From:* Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:49 PM
> *To:* Bob Danielson <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> *Cc:* Dave <dave@ranteer.com> ; Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] cockpit covers
>
>  Bob,
>
> Are these covers water proof?  In other words will they work in the place
> of a tonneau cover when it comes to rain/moisture?
>
> There was no mention of moisture in their description.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Bob Danielson <
> 75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
>
>> Moss is were I got mine
>>
>> http://www.mossmotors.com/**Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?**
>> PlateIndexID=29544&SortOrder=**10<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29544&SortOrder=10>
>>
>>
>> www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
>> 1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
>> Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed
>> Nissan Diff
>> CVJs
>> And more....
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Dave
>> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 11:06 PM
>> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] cockpit covers
>>
>> hi.  I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that
>> completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains.
>>
>> does anyone have a link to this site?
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.**danielsonfamily.org<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr  9 14:53:22 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 16:52:09 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] modern skirted 'stats
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Hi Adrian,


Yes, the benefit of older Triumphs having something in common with older
Jaguars - someone with Jags in mind had bright idea of taking the very well
made all brass Robert Shaw pellet thermostats and having tooling developed to
stamp and turn, a heavy brass sleeve and then have sleeve soldered onto the
stock Robert Shaw thermostats. The sleeve action is opposite direction, but
ends up blocking by-pass just like the original bellows sleeved SMITHS
thermostat does inside my TR4 housing. I did a side-by-side stove-top test
with this new fangled one and an original SMITHS bellows/sleaved thermostat -
effectively the same result.


I bought mine from  http://www.xks.com in the US  for $35 about 15 years
ago..


Then Moss picked them up about 5-10  years ago and sold them for about $45 I
recall.. hmm.. now I see they're listing one in recent catalogue (not sure if
same or a bellows type one) for $109.95!



Regards,


Carl
'63 TR4 since '74






I did say it was on a personal note as I have never had much luck with the
bellows variety, almost every car I bought in my younger days had a faulty
one. It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax
type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new
improved. I do not know the answer.
Randall has pointed out that the bellows type open slower so this may be a
factor to take into account.
As an aside I do not remember seeing a production skirted wax type
thermostat. I am sure someone will tell me if I am mistaken.

Adrian

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 16:01:27 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] VTR2012 DVD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

At VTR last year there was a guy taking pictures and he also did the video
show at the banquet.

He said he was sending copies of all the pictures to whomever wanted them, I
left my info for mailing but no DVD.

Does anyone know who this was and how I may contact him?  So many great cars
and I did not take near enough pictures.

Thanks,
Bill.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 21:04:02 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats
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---- Dixie4 <dixie4.wales@virgin.net> wrote: 
> It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax 
> type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new 
> improved. I do not know the answer.

Maybe not "the" answer, but I know of several reasons.  One of the biggest, IMO, is that when the bellows type does fail, they fail closed.  Instant overheat!  The wax type used to be known as "failsafe" because they generally fail open.  (Not always, I have had them fail closed or partially open, but usually open.)

Another is that the bellows (and hence the thermostat setpoint) is affected by coolant pressure while the wax type is relatively unaffected.  Higher coolant pressure tends to hold them closed, not a Good Thing.

And of course, the wax type is at least somewhat cheaper to make as well.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 22:42:38 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Empty trailer
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What are you up to?

Sorry, not scheduled to be in the Lone Star State in the near future.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "WBEECH" <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 1:41:57 PM
> Subject: [TR] Empty trailer
> I know this is a long shot but is anyone coming through San Antonio
> with an
> empty trailer headed toward Fort Worth?
> 
> Thx,
> Bill
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 11:38:28 -0700
Thread-Topic: modern skirted 'stats
Thread-Index: Ac42GpfqOBRYZOozTO+BBtYD7OyAiw==
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Subject: [TR] modern skirted 'stats
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Just F.Y.I...
The Moss $109.95 is a true reproduction of the original.  The sleeve is not
"soldered" at the base of the stat.  It is as illustrated and as original,
spaced away from the bottom of the stat and is a true bellows type. And yes,
you must preserve the lower pressure system or the bellows will collapse.
Moss does offer the fail-safe type that always locks open when overheated.
Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  Pete
	Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
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Great discussion on thermostats.  I have the original one (I think) in my tr250 and I put it back in after I tested it and it seemed to work fine.  Still not planning onswapping it out, but will put a spare in the trunk.  Greg Lemon

---- Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com> wrote: 
> Just F.Y.I...
> The Moss $109.95 is a true reproduction of the original.  The sleeve is not
> "soldered" at the base of the stat.  It is as illustrated and as original,
> spaced away from the bottom of the stat and is a true bellows type. And yes,
> you must preserve the lower pressure system or the bellows will collapse.
> Moss does offer the fail-safe type that always locks open when overheated.
> Peter
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 1:30:34 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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---- glemon@neb.rr.com wrote: 
> Still not planning onswapping it out, but will put a spare in the trunk.  

Your TR250 would have had a wax pellet type (no sleeve) as original anyway.  Hardly worth carrying a spare, when you can pick up one that will work just fine at practically any car parts place (Autozone, O'Reillys, etc).  And actually, the engine will run plenty well enough to get you home even without a thermostat.  

Heater won't work very good, though :)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 00:31:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:31:37 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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A number of you already tossed into the hat based on my message about what
you'd like to see, or not see.  Thanks, you're off the hook.  Here's 
what I'm sending
to the other popular lists:


April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
towards keeping it on the air:

http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 05:53:02 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 07:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats
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All this talk about skirted thermostats is just silly.  A real man uses a 
KILTED thermostat!

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 06:45:10 2013
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Let the wind blow high, let the wind blow low, down the street in my kilt I'll go, all the lassies say hello. Donald where's your trousers?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats
Date: Thu, Apr 11, 2013 06:51


All this talk about skirted thermostats is just silly.  A real man uses a 
KILTED thermostat!

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:05:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with
overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication.
    
TIA,
 
     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 15:25:26 2013
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From: Mo and Dave MacKay <m.d.mackay@sympatico.ca>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 17:22:40 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac42+rBTq94lu8zfTpSpIrALYCmUQw==
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph
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Bob Danielson has an excellent write-up on his web site:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

I created a little spreadsheet that calculates the speed at any rpm in a
particular gear when I was contemplating installing the HVDA conversion in
my TR3A.  I'd be happy to send it to anyone on the list who might find it
helpful.

After installing the HVDA transmission, I found myself routinely speeding so
that I figured I'd better re-calibrate my speedometer. I sent my speedometer
to Margaret Lawrence at Mo-Ma in New Mexico. She charged US$150 to
recalibrate the speedo and had it back to me in about 2 weeks. I'm happy
with the work that Mo-Ma did.

In order to calibrate the speedo, Mo-Ma needed to know how many revolutions
the speedo cable makes in a mile. My speedo was set for 1184 revs per mile.
To determine what the revs are now, I measured out 59 9= (1/100 of a mile)
on the road in front of my house. I marked the wheel and pushed the car over
that distance to see how many revs the cable made. I repeated that 4 or 5
times. I came up with 10 complete turns and a partial turn of about 215
degrees, which works out to 10.5972 speedometer cable turns over the 52 9=
distance. Consequently, I asked Mo-Ma to calibrate my speedo for 1060 revs.

Regards,

Dave MacKay

1960 Triumph TR3A
s/n 68639L
near Toronto, Canada

>Message: 7
>Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:05:13 -0700 (PDT)
>From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
>To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph
>Message-ID: 	<1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>     Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with
>overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication.
>
>TIA,
 >
 >    Bill in Tehachapi

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 16:25:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 15:22:52 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill

Try here & page down to last item...

Rhodes TR Site <http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/1967_TR4A_Tech.html>

Procedure is the same OD or non-OD as the speedo is reading the output
shaft and doesn't care what is going on prior to that.

As I recall your Practical Hints manual has a chart of mph per 1000 RPM in
each gear, standard & OD.

Geo



On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:05 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>      Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with
> overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication.
>
> TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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	<CANzE1bEnQ=qs7TzhF3wQ0gORgUxBsEBDD+8_6_=JmsKeRZGNxg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 19:02:28 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Istr a rpm at 10mph. My car has done well by doubling the rpm in 4th gear.
If 4.10 you're on your own....

Gotta get the speedometer fixed some day...
On Apr 11, 2013 6:26 PM, "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bill
>
> Try here & page down to last item...
>
> Rhodes TR Site <http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/1967_TR4A_Tech.html>
>
> Procedure is the same OD or non-OD as the speedo is reading the output
> shaft and doesn't care what is going on prior to that.
>
> As I recall your Practical Hints manual has a chart of mph per 1000 RPM in
> each gear, standard & OD.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:05 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> wrote:
>
> >      Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer
> with
> > overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> >      Bill in Tehachapi
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 06:14:11 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:08:26 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Scotsman clad in kilt left the bar one evening fair
And one could tell by the way he walked that he drunk more than his share
He fumbled round until he cold no longer keep his feet
Then he stumbled off into the grass to sleep beside the street.

http://www.lyrster.com/come-back/ring-ding-dittle-little-eye-de-o/www.thebar
ds.net/music/lyrics/The_Scotsman.shtml


In a message dated 4/12/2013 4:05:28 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mmarr@mail1.notwires.com writes: 
> Ah just got doon fra' the Isles o' Skye, Ah'm no' very big an' ah'm awfu' 
> shy, an' the lassies say, when I go by, "Donald, where's yer troosers?"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 06:21:54 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:20:28 -0400
From: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Metric threads on GT6 / TR-6 motor mounts - anyone else notice
 this lately - long posting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greeting all:

Anyone recently bought Triumph motor mounts where the threaded stud was
metric instead of inch?

Recently I purchased new motor mounts for my Spit bodied GT6 from a US
supplier specializing in the small Triumphs .  Last night I took the time
to install the first of them.  The new mounts came w/ nuts on the studs -
this was a bit unusual so I checked the threads - M10x1.25 (fine thread)
instead of 3/8-24.  Leads me to think these are Chi-com or similar parts
(along with the "rubber" that had flashed onto the mounting surface that I
had to cut off to make the part fit properly).  If the supplier has no
issues with making a fastener substitution, what other substitution are
they willing to make?  If the vendor is willing to supply one inferior part
- how many others that they sell might be inferior?

Anyone else replaced motor mounts recently in a GT6 or TR6 (not sure what
else shares this part)?   The  Spit 1500 appears to have a similar mount
but with a single stud instead of dual 3/8-24 studs - not sure what the
earlier Spit motor mounts looked like.  If so did the part include new
nuts? Did you check if the threads were metric?  I realize that service
parts such as these are made in small runs - I suspect that the worldwide
demand for TR-6 / GT6 motor mounts may not exceed a few hundred pcs per
year.  Maybe we are down to one willing supplier and it is a take it or
leave it situation - I am just trying to see if there are other options
before I contact the vendor.

Motor mounts are pretty straightforward and hard to screw up  but I also
bought new front spindles from the same vendor that I will not get around
to installing for several months and I am a bit concerned about a poorly
machined part or a bad material substitution by some 3rd world supplier.
Spindles are a bit more mission critical than a motor mount.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 06:36:40 2013
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Two young girls came by and one said to the other, "Nell, I want to know what these Scots wear under their kilts"!
Her friend was enthusiastic, too, and so they pulled up the lads kilt.
After admiring the length and breadth, one girl playfully tied a hair ribbon around the member, and the girls laughed about it on the way home.
In the morning, the young scotsman awoke and with a sore head went to relieve himself.
As he stood behind a bush he was startled to find the ribbon!
"Lad, I don't know where ye've been, but you've won first prize!"

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats
Date: Fri, Apr 12, 2013 07:08


Scotsman clad in kilt left the bar one evening fair
And one could tell by the way he walked that he drunk more than his share
He fumbled round until he cold no longer keep his feet
Then he stumbled off into the grass to sleep beside the street.

http://www.lyrster.com/come-back/ring-ding-dittle-little-eye-de-o/www.thebar
ds.net/music/lyrics/The_Scotsman.shtml


In a message dated 4/12/2013 4:05:28 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mmarr@mail1.notwires.com writes: 
> Ah just got doon fra' the Isles o' Skye, Ah'm no' very big an' ah'm awfu' 
> shy, an' the lassies say, when I go by, "Donald, where's yer troosers?"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:13:57 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:09:06 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac43sH1qkgxUL+8vQxqWOJwbkgcxhg==
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Subject: [TR] engine stands
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I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a couple
of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive)
gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight
ones?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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Just used one of the HF ones for my AH3000 (longer and heavier than the TR4)
but would not attempt with the trans and OD attached.

It's a fine piece of kit, but the lever arm with an trans and OD anchor
hanging off the end may be a bit much.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 12:09 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] engine stands

I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a couple
of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive)
gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight
ones?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 19:23:05 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote: 
> I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a couple
> of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive)
> gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight
> ones?

What HF calls an "engine stand" is not intended for hanging an engine plus gearbox on.  The engine mounts to it via the rear flange.

I have the discontinued 750 lb engine stand from HF, it works well enough for me.  
http://goo.gl/kEQVs
The main difference is that it only has 3 wheels and is correspondingly less stable (which can be a concern if you are trying to move it over a rough floor with an engine on).  It's had a TR4 engine block hanging on it for probably 20 years now and is still holding fine.

IIRC I had to source some suitable bolts, though.  The ones that came with it were not long enough.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:29:37 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:26:22 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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Andrew,

I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the 
transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also 
loaned it to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no 
problems.

When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up 
to my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I 
assembled the clutch and transmission prior to installation into the 
engine.

If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach 
the stand to the engine?

The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4 
long bolts hold the engine to the stand.

Bob

On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a couple
> of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive)
> gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight
> ones?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:33:24 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net>
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:32:03 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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Thanks, Bob - I wasn't thinking.  It happens frequently these
days.............   

Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my TR3
and was then reminded it had a roll bar.......     

Andrew


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 3:26 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands

Andrew,

I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the
transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also loaned it
to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no problems.

When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to
my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the
clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine.

If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach the
stand to the engine?

The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4
long bolts hold the engine to the stand.

Bob

On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a 
> couple of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and 
> (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with 
> the Harbor Freight ones?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:44:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:40:35 -0400
From: Hugh Barber <tr6nut@verizon.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM2-FmDX=-hp_Lfm0K9k+jTKaAuKTEE400__xf-G_wQr13A@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Metric threads on GT6 / TR-6 motor mounts - anyone else
 notice this lately - long posting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know that the TR8 motor mounts look exactly like TR6/GT6 mounts and 
are occasionally sold as "heavy-duty" TR6 motor mounts.  The TR8 mounts 
have metric threads. Perhaps they have consolidated production in the 
PRC and only make one mount for the TR6/GT6/TR8?

Hugh Barber
Stafford, VA

On 4/12/2013 8:20 AM, aribert neumann wrote:
> Greeting all:
>
> Anyone recently bought Triumph motor mounts where the threaded stud was
> metric instead of inch?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:44:58 2013
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To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 19:40:13 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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On Apr 12, 2013, at 12:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my
TR3
and was then reminded it had a roll bar.......
 

I had both a tonnueau
and roll bar on my TR4a for a long time.  Just had cutouts made to go around
the roll bar.  Maybe not quite so easy on a TR3, since it wouldn't be so flat.
-Darrell

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 13:45:41 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:42:15 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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Andrew,

Ok, and by the way, that was a 200 CI Ford engine not CC. Doubt a 200 CC 
engine would be much good in a 65 Mustang!

Bob

On 04/12/2013 03:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> Thanks, Bob - I wasn't thinking.  It happens frequently these
> days.............
>
> Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my TR3
> and was then reminded it had a roll bar.......
>
> Andrew
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 3:26 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
>
> Andrew,
>
> I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the
> transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also loaned it
> to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no problems.
>
> When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to
> my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the
> clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine.
>
> If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach the
> stand to the engine?
>
> The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4
> long bolts hold the engine to the stand.
>
> Bob
>
> On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>> I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a
>> couple of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and
>> (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with
>> the Harbor Freight ones?
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:03:57 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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I don't like the stability of a three wheeled stand. You would like a four
wheel stand better if you intend to move it under load.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I am thinking of getting an engine stand.  I see Harbor Freight has a
> couple
> of 1000lb stands.  Questions:  is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive)
> gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor
> Freight
> ones?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:17:20 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
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I tried one of those hydraulic lift tables from Harbor Frieght on my last
rebuild of the TR4.   I really liked it.

I set up the TR6 motor with a steel plate on the side and mounted it
sideways on the motor stand - that is working out really nicely as well.

I can send pics of the motor mounted sideways on the stand if you email me
directly.

Chris

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:36:08 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac43xbQfqj66tFLNTDKH/ZXxL2vaZw==
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Subject: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out
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Save these cars!

 

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html

 

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

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From: McGaheyRx@aol.com
Full-name: McGaheyRx
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:58:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: trguy75@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out
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This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members  
for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back.
 
I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an 
 autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars - 
since  the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC 
list as  well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross.
If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these  
Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if  several 
of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for me  to 
go Autocross instead.
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc
 
 
  
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trguy75@gmail.com writes:

Save  these  cars!



http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html



Jim  Henningsen

Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net  **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 16:52:06 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:44:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: yellowtr@adelphia.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you have a sturdy work bench. you may want to move to the top for clutch/tranny installation.  no need to bend over, etc as well as much less 'lifting' even with a hoist.  see: http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/07-Tran1.jpg.html 
 
I did end up putting down on the floor as there was a delay in getting it into the frame.  but if all had been as I wanted, it would have been straight to the frame from the workbench (it is on rollers)

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 04/12/13, Bob Labuz wrote:

When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up 
to my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I 
assembled the clutch and transmission prior to installation into the 
engine.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 18:22:47 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <McGaheyRx@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <133508.7767d341.3e99dd7f@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 20:21:25 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJEKLUEDEiUEicooZyrWKyXH6GX/pfnaAeA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out
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Jack:

Didn't mean to spoil the auction for you. Just wanted to make sure they
don't end up in a scrap yard.

Jim

 

From: McGaheyRx@aol.com [mailto:McGaheyRx@aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 5:58 PM
To: trguy75@gmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out

 

This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members
for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back.

 

I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an
autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars -
since the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC
list as well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross.

If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these
Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if
several of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for
me to go Autocross instead.

 

Thanks,

Jack Mc

 

 

  

 

In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
trguy75@gmail.com writes:

Save these cars!



http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html



Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 13 19:05:31 2013
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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 21:03:42 -0400
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out
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Jim -

Apparently you needn't worry about any TRs ending up in a scrap yard in these
parts  - all the TR250s and the TR4 went for what I thought was too much money
- the grey TR6 wreck in the woods went for over $500  - I bought the white TR6
for a decent price and every Triumph and Triumph part on the property went
home with a Triumph enthusiast.
It was actually a fun day - probably because there were entirely too many
people there that I knew.   ;-)

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 12, 2013, at 8:21 PM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jack:
> Didnbt mean to spoil the auction for you. Just wanted to make sure they
donbt end up in a scrap yard.
> Jim
>
> From: McGaheyRx@aol.com [mailto:McGaheyRx@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 5:58 PM
> To: trguy75@gmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out
>
> This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members
for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back.
>
> I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an
autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars -
since the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC list
as well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross.
> If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these
Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if
several of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for
me to go Autocross instead.
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
trguy75@gmail.com writes:
> Save these cars!
>
>
>
> http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html
>
>
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 10:04:53 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:02:47 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac458qwwJ82cngzdRb+ab2kh0X+9Zw==
Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
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After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not
OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my
TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or
hanging up) .  I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along
with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts #
138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)).  I also have a copy of the article
"Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye
Triumphs site.  I have a pretty good idea how difficult these
bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the
car and it's not coming out.  My questions are: Can I presume that at almost
3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as
long?  Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I
know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go?
Any other bright ideas?  I do NOT want to have to do this again.  Thanks for
your insight and any help you can provide.

Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I
can see clearly now.")) 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 11:27:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
lots of fun. loved the car.
but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around.
when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the
back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind
of normal in an IRS?
 
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:29:01 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
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To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
References: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dennis,

I used the bushing replacement kit provided by Art Lipp. Hist email is 
lipp04@yahoo.com. Not sure how hard to do with engine in place.
Bob

On 04/15/2013 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:
> After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not
> OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my
> TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or
> hanging up) .  I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along
> with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts #
> 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)).  I also have a copy of the article
> "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye
> Triumphs site.  I have a pretty good idea how difficult these
> bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the
> car and it's not coming out.  My questions are: Can I presume that at almost
> 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as
> long?  Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I
> know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go?
> Any other bright ideas?  I do NOT want to have to do this again.  Thanks for
> your insight and any help you can provide.
>
> Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I
> can see clearly now."))

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:55:28 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
References: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Frank,

I have to agree on the performance. Both my 3 and 4 seem to have a bit 
more between 2 and 3k than the 6. The 6 doesnt seem to get it on until 
about 3200 or so.

The 3 is an 87MM engine. Both the 4 and 6 are stock.

I use the same gas (premium without alcohol). All have Bell exhaust 
systems, SU carbs, stock ignition.

As far as the hop in the 6, I have never noticed it. Did your 6 have a 
stock rear suspension?

It does squat a bit on hard acceleration.

As far as light rear ends, my 63 4 seems to be the lightest.

Bob
On 04/15/2013 02:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
> lots of fun. loved the car.
> but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
> the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around.
> when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the
> back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind
> of normal in an IRS?
>   
> Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:10:08 2013
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To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
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 There are a lot of little things that can cause this behaviour.  Worn
trailing arm bushings are one.  a sticky spline shaft can also cause the car
to behave like this.  Soft shocks, especially where one shock absorber is
softer than the one on the other side will also do this.  Alignment is also
critical on an IRS vehicle.  On the TR3 or any solid axle car the two tires
will be pointing in the same direction no matter what.  Not so with the TR6.
And since the camber changes with wheel movement any inconsistencies will
present themselves if the suspension is exercised.

But when it is set up properly the TR6 should behave quite predictably.  I've
done all that and my car has no tendency to sidestep on bumps.  But I have
poly bushings, telescopic shock conversion,  uprated springs and, most
importantly, a four wheel alignment.

A related aside, when I first got my car it had a terrible tendency to want to
sidestep on bumps.  When I did a major overhaul I found that a PO had
installed a RH trunnion and vertical link on the left side.  Collision repair
since there was a RH trunion and vertical on the right side as well.  Once I
sorted that out the car rode much better.  The four wheel alignment was also a
noticeable improvement.  But do everything else before you get the alignment
since changing bushings will throw the alignment out.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>


drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
lots of fun. loved the car.
but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around.
when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the
back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind
of normal in an IRS?

Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:11:23 2013
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6@optonline.net>
References: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net>
	<516C46ED.8030906@adelphia.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 on Art's kit......  especially seeing as I'm the guy who got him to make 
the first one! It's probably the easiest to do with the engine in place. The 
bushings are made from Delrin which basically lasts forever and the design 
insures nothing will every fall apart. You can see how it's installed here: 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm

Another cause of a sticky throttle is the carb linkage so here's how I clean 
and lube it: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ControlRod.htm

Bob


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....


-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Labuz
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 2:29 PM
To: Dennis Culligan
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings

Dennis,

I used the bushing replacement kit provided by Art Lipp. Hist email is
lipp04@yahoo.com. Not sure how hard to do with engine in place.
Bob

On 04/15/2013 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:
> After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not
> OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on 
> my
> TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or
> hanging up) .  I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 
> along
> with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts #
> 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)).  I also have a copy of the 
> article
> "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye
> Triumphs site.  I have a pretty good idea how difficult these
> bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the
> car and it's not coming out.  My questions are: Can I presume that at 
> almost
> 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x 
> as
> long?  Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I
> know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to 
> go?
> Any other bright ideas?  I do NOT want to have to do this again.  Thanks 
> for
> your insight and any help you can provide.
>
> Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield 
> ("I
> can see clearly now."))

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
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On Mon, 15 Apr 2013, at 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:

>  If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way
to go?
> Any other bright ideas?  I do NOT want to have to do this again.

You might try Art Lipp. He makes a bushing kit for the accelerator shaft.  His
email address is: lipp04@yahoo.com

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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In a message dated 4/15/2013 2:39:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes:

the one  thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved 
around.
when  driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road  
the
back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is  that 
kind
of normal in an IRS?
 
NO - NOT NORMAL AT ALL
i think others have already posted a few of the many things that could  
cause that
 
At this stage in the life of these cars, I think its utterly invalid  to 
draw any conclusions about the differences between 2 models based on a  
comparison of only a few, or even several, examples of each.
Handling, and certainly power and torque, will vary widely between  
different cars within the same model as a result of differences between the  state 
of maintenance, tune, and upgrades on each  car.     
 
This seems to obvious to post, but there it is anyway.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:54:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

the rear suspension is stock.

--- On Mon, 4/15/13, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:


From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
To: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 6:55 PM


Frank,

I have to agree on the performance. Both my 3 and 4 seem to have a bit more
between 2 and 3k than the 6. The 6 doesnt seem to get it on until about 3200
or so.

The 3 is an 87MM engine. Both the 4 and 6 are stock.

I use the same gas (premium without alcohol). All have Bell exhaust systems,
SU carbs, stock ignition.

As far as the hop in the 6, I have never noticed it. Did your 6 have a stock
rear suspension?

It does squat a bit on hard acceleration.

As far as light rear ends, my 63 4 seems to be the lightest.

Bob
On 04/15/2013 02:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
> lots of fun. loved the car.
> but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
> the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved
around.
> when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road
the
> back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that
kind
> of normal in an IRS?
>   Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:58:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

ill pass the suggestion on.
thanks Dave

--- On Mon, 4/15/13, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:


From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 7:05 PM



There are a lot of little things that can cause this behaviour.  Worn trailing
arm bushings are one.  a sticky spline shaft can also cause the car to behave
like this.  Soft shocks, especially where one shock absorber is softer than
the one on the other side will also do this.  Alignment is also critical on an
IRS vehicle.  On the TR3 or any solid axle car the two tires will be pointing
in the same direction no matter what.  Not so with the TR6.  And since the
camber changes with wheel movement any inconsistencies will present themselves
if the suspension is exercised. 

But when it is set up properly the TR6 should behave quite predictably.  I've
done all that and my car has no tendency to sidestep on bumps.  But I have
poly bushings, telescopic shock conversion,  uprated springs and, most
importantly, a four wheel alignment.

A related aside, when I first got my car it had a terrible tendency to want to
sidestep on bumps.  When I did a major overhaul I found that a PO had
installed a RH trunnion and vertical link on the left side.  Collision repair
since there was a RH trunion and vertical on the right side as well.  Once I
sorted that out the car rode much better.  The four wheel alignment was also a
noticeable improvement.  But do everything else before you get the alignment
since changing bushings will throw the alignment out.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>


drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
lots of fun. loved the car.
but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around.
when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the
back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind
of normal in an IRS?

Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 14:13:27 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:10:09 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
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If the handling has gotten to the point that it needs work maybe the  
engine tuning has been neglected and is also needing work.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
> lots of fun. loved the car.
> but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
> the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end  
> moved around.
> when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the  
> road the
> back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is  
> that kind
> of normal in an IRS?
>
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 13:52:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

nah!
the motor is good.
we have been working on the car for some time now.
the carbs where rebuilt not a month ago.
compression is good.
all electricals new or checked.
overdrive working real well.
 
 
 


--- On Mon, 4/15/13, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
To: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 8:10 PM



If the handling has gotten to the point that it needs work maybe the engine
tuning has been neglected and is also needing work.










Bud Rolofson



Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:


drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
lots of fun. loved the car.
but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3.
the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around.
when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the
back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind
of normal in an IRS?

Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 1:20:33 +0000
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
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Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the bushings.  I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in.  I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers welded to some steel tube.  Has worked fine for a couple years.  Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Reminds me of the three little rubber pieces which support the wiper motor
on the TR3.  Not sure that I've ever managed to put them in without slicing
them first.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon@neb.rr.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 9:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings

Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the
bushings.  I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of
warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could
get them in.  I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and
persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers
welded to some steel tube.  Has worked fine for a couple years.  Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac46rTLsBs+03CJQRl6sIwt+Ngjubw==
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is
currently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and have
successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float
bowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank
will someday be located. 
 
To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location
of an electric FP?
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank
seems good too, if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old
mechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?
 
Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 08:41:12 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 10:38:32 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: wbeech@flash.net
References: <E0278F73E5964D218EECDAD3B08E072E@bboffice>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bill,

This was discussed a few years back and the majority feel the electric 
pump is best mounted as close to the gas tank outlet as possible.

So I mounted my pump on the 3 sort of in the outside lower back of the 
spare tire compartment on the drivers side. I made a 2 wire harness that 
runs down the drivers compartment and out one of the rubber plugs beside 
the gas tank.

I used Lucar connections on the pump wiring covered with that exterior 
wire harness plastic available at any FLAPS on the harness as it exits 
the body.

I replaced the fuel pump with one of those blanking plates made by one 
of the members here and then on top of that, I made a steel plate for a 
fuel regulator.

Inline filter before the pump and before the regulator.

Output of regulator to the standard fuel line (minus the fuel pump fitting).

Power comes from the coil.

Some members have left the fuel pump in, but since it was always a PITA 
always leaking etc., I decided to replace with a blank and regulator.

Others have installed some sort of cut off switch between power and the 
pump to turn off power in case of an accident.

I went with the FACET pump on my 3,4 and 6 and they work great.

Bob

On 04/16/2013 10:23 AM, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is
> currently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and have
> successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float
> bowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the ta
> will someday be located.
>   
> To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location
> of an electric FP?
> 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank
> seems good too, if a bit out of the way.


> 2. Frame or Body mounting?
> 3. Firewall or inner fender?
> 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
> 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old
> mechanical FP for authenticity?
> 6. Any other tips on usage or connections?
>   
> Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.
>   
> Thanks,
> Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E0278F73E5964D218EECDAD3B08E072E@bboffice>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 08:19:19 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac46rTLsBs+03CJQRl6sIwt+NgjubwACFmZQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the vibration from
being amplified by the body or frame where it is mounted.  They are loud
enough without helping it along.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:23 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is
currently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and have
successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float
bowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank
will someday be located. 
 
To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location
of an electric FP?
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank
seems good too, if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old
mechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?
 
Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 08:52:22 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac46rTLsBs+03CJQRl6sIwt+NgjubwACFmZQAAEkDrA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the 
> vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it 
> is mounted.  They are loud enough without helping it along.

Ditto !  I actually used a double shock mount, with rubber between the pump
and a new mounting plate, plus rubber between the plate and the original
mounting location (on a Stag).  And I could still hear the pump from the
driver's seat.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 14:10:36 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used the facet fuel pump and mounted it via rubber shock mounts to the
fuel pump blanking plate on the side of the engine - The hole spacing
matched the pump mount spacing almost exactly.

I bought  some MG exhaust system mounts (with rubber isolators) as I
figured they would hold up to the heat from the engine.  I'm happy with it
and the location made it pretty easy to plumb and wire up.   I went to the
junkyard and got a few ford taurus inerita switches (left side of the trunk
under the cardboard).   Since these were originally located inside the car
- I bought some TR3  starter solenoid button rubber covers and used that to
cover the top of the inertial switch to keep rain and crud out.. i also
painted some of the black rubber electrical insulation stuff along the
seams for extra protection. So far no issues.


On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the
> > vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it
> > is mounted.  They are loud enough without helping it along.
>
> Ditto !  I actually used a double shock mount, with rubber between the pump
> and a new mounting plate, plus rubber between the plate and the original
> mounting location (on a Stag).  And I could still hear the pump from the
> driver's seat.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 15:31:11 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac462PNF6mc1rip7R7yo0kV/KEqZUA==
Cc: yellowtr3@yahoo.com
Subject: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

>drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.

>snip

>The one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved
around.

>when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road
the

>back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that
kind

>of normal in an IRS?

 

Frank - 

   I have a late 1976 TR6 that I've owned for 24 years.  The phenomenon you
are experiencing is what I've always called the "TR6 twitch". It seems to
happen when the rear end "unloads" after hitting a bump or after a weight
shift (like after you've gone around a curve and are straightening the
wheel). My car is in very good kit, as they say, and has a tube shock
conversion and a rear sway bar. I have no idea what causes this and have
gotten quite used to it over the years. I just had some alignment work done
and had adjustable trailing arm mounts installed - these should not make a
difference but we'll see what happens. 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Alan Myers <amfoto1@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
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Hi Bill,

It's on a TR4 but should be able to do the same on TR3B, if you wish... I
mounted a Facet on the inboard side of the LH rear shock bracket.

Photo here:
http://www.triumphowners.com/collection.cgi?task=PHOTO&photocategoryID=800&se
ctionID=111032 (2nd image).

Previously I've had electric pumps mounted on body panels and they ARE noisy,
even with proper rubber mounting!

Putting it on the frame (rubber mounted, too) isolates it a bit better. It's
also pretty well hidden behind the shock bracket, plus tucked up where it's
pretty unlikely to get hit by anything thrown up from the road.

This location is also below the tank, which will give the best results. I
rigged it so two hoses from the tank feed a large Fram HPG-1 filter, which in
turn feeds the pump.  I used stainless braided lines throughout, eliminating
all the plain rubber fuel hoses and piping. But you could just as easily keep
those original if you prefer.

I just blanked off the stock pump location, but I've seen people modify the
original to keep it in place, used the Facet to "push" fuel through the
original pump. I don't know how they did that. Hopefully someone else can
advise.

You might want to add a hidden switch to the power circuit.... It's a cheap
form of theft protection.

You also may need a pressure regulator, depending upon the pressure from the
Facet and the carb setup you use.

Watch out for the exhaust when locating the pump and filter, and routing the
hoses. Just as a precaution, on my car I've wrapped the exhaust pipe nearest
the filter and pump, with header wrap. It's a stainless exhaust sys, so I can
get away with that. Might not be a good idea to wrap a mild steel exhaust
pipe.

Cheers!


Alan Myers
amfoto1@aol.com
San Jose, Calif.
TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640
Triumphest 2009
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request <triumphs-request@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Apr 16, 2013 11:01 am
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 130
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that
iscurrently under construction.  Right now, I have engine in frame and
havesuccessfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the
floatbowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the
tankwill someday be located.  To that end, I was wondering that the collective
wisdom is on the locationof an electric FP?
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tankseems
good too, if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the
oldmechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?

Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.

 Thanks,Bill  Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sitthere"
Will Rodgers

------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: jeffn@msystech.com
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:55:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It seems like the only place to buy one
is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA?


Thanks,
Jeff N.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 15:25:25 2013
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <jeffn@msystech.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <W4545414928175781366145742@atl4webmail28>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 17:30:38 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't think Justin is making the gaskets any more.

Bob


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....

-----Original Message----- 
From: jeffn@msystech.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:55 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover

I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It 
seems like the only place to buy one
is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly 
from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA?


Thanks,
Jeff N.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 16:14:12 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: <jeffn@msystech.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <W4545414928175781366145742@atl4webmail28>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 18:12:19 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have Justin's gaskets on a couple of my 6's  but I haven't seen his tuff 
around for over a year now.

Recently I stumbled upon another source making silicone gaskets for our 
LBC's (where he started) and now makes them for several other marquees
He's a Triumph guy at heart.... some of you might know him...Steve 
Downing?.... with the supercharged GT6?
gasketinnovations.com
I just put one on my TR7 and the fit and finish is perfect.
nfi  jasc

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jeffn@msystech.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:55 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover


>I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It 
>seems like the only place to buy one
> is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly 
> from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 17:00:08 2013
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: jeffn@msystech.com
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover
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Jeff,

Justin posted on the 6-pack forum some time last year that his current 
day job is taking up all his time and will not be making the gaskets 
anytime soon. It is too bad because the gaskets are top quality. He also 
mentioned the facility where they were manufactured either moved or closed.

I guess I am a lucky one as I have them on my 3, 4 and 6.



Bob
> I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It seems like the only place to buy one
> is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 20:22:48 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: dave@ranteer.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 19:08:57 -0700
User-Agent: MailAPI 24256
Subject: [TR] Paint overspray
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to  be some
very light overspray on it in a couple places.  Like it was in a shop where
someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car was
covered.  You can even see a distinct line where there was something covering
the car.  Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where it was
covered to rough in the overspray.

Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint
successfully?  And of course how.  The paint otherwise, including these areas,
is very nice.

Thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 21:26:07 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <dave@ranteer.com>
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 22:22:20 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint overspray
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here are is an answer, but with some "ifs" and assumptions, if the car was 
painted with a urethane enamel, and if the overspray is indeed from a simple 
rattle can enamel or lacquer the overspray should polish of with some light 
polishing compound pretty easily, as the stuff you are polishing off is much 
softer than the base coat on the car.  If the car looks good I assume the 
overspray is the same color? or maybe a clearcoat?

Even if the overspray is urethane enamel as well it should polish off pretty 
easily (will take some time and elbow grease but should not be difficult). 
Anyway, unless it is something nasty hard like por13 or an epoxy primer it 
should not be a big deal to polish the overspray off, however, without 
knowing exactly what you are polishing it is hard to say for absolutely 
sure.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 23:02:12 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:07:30 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, yellowtr3@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like trailing arm bushings are going or gone.  That allows the
trailing arm to torque to one side
under acceleration when shifting giving you the " twitch".

I've even had fairly new urethane bushing elongate within a couple of years,
I went back to uprated rubber bushings from TRF.

Al


On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 3:31 PM, Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>wrote:

> On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
> >drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick.
>
> >snip
>
> >The one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved
> around.
>
> >when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road
> the
>
> >back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that
> kind
>
> >of normal in an IRS?
>
>
>
> Frank -
>
>    I have a late 1976 TR6 that I've owned for 24 years.  The phenomenon you
> are experiencing is what I've always called the "TR6 twitch". It seems to
> happen when the rear end "unloads" after hitting a bump or after a weight
> shift (like after you've gone around a curve and are straightening the
> wheel). My car is in very good kit, as they say, and has a tube shock
> conversion and a rear sway bar. I have no idea what causes this and have
> gotten quite used to it over the years. I just had some alignment work done
> and had adjustable trailing arm mounts installed - these should not make a
> difference but we'll see what happens.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 23:02:12 2013
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 23:49:01 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Hazard Fraught tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is just funny.

http://www.kmstools.com/pages/competitor-79

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 16 23:34:44 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 23:24:07 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:19.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/19.0 SeaMonkey/2.16.2
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPK7CFBGfZ4ijnUWEpEy4PO9RGAjxn7BeHFsvrEoieqVzzMOQw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Hazard Fraught tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I always get a chuckle out of that.  Actually something I might dig out 
is the
tool descriptions that Peter Egan wrote up years ago.

mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 00:33:14 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 03:46:37 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Contact Art Lipp,
lipp04@yahoo.com
for a bushing system that's easy to install and works!

NFI and all that,

Ed Woods

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: glemon@neb.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:23:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings

Reminds me of the three little rubber pieces which support the wiper motor
on the TR3. B Not sure that I've ever managed to put them in without slicing
them first.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon@neb.rr.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 9:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings

Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the
bushings. B I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of
warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could
get them in. B I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and
persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers
welded to some steel tube. B Has worked fine for a couple years. B Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 00:34:08 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 19:19:29 +0000 (UTC)
From: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
To: Joe Curry <spitlist@cox.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Holley fuel pump in my TR3 vintage race car and the thing buzzes and vibrates obnoxiously loud. Even with standoff rubber isolation mounts. I know that the Carter pumps are loud too. I'm going to switch to a Facet cylindrical type pump as soon possible. I've been told that they are very quiet. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net> 
To: wbeech@flash.net, triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 8:19:19 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? 

Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the vibration from 
being amplified by the body or frame where it is mounted. They are loud 
enough without helping it along. 

Joe 

-----Original Message----- 
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net 
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:23 AM 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? 

Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is 
currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have 
successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float 
bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank 
will someday be located. 

To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location 
of an electric FP? 
1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank 
seems good too, if a bit out of the way. 
2. Frame or Body mounting? 
3. Firewall or inner fender? 
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 
5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old 
mechanical FP for authenticity? 
6. Any other tips on usage or connections? 

Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. 

Thanks, 
Bill 


Bill Beecher 
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" 
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) 
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" 
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit 
there" Will Rodgers 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 00:51:39 2013
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From: "Len Drake" <lendrake@shaw.ca>
To: "Drake Len" <lendrake@shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 13:53:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] British Car Upholstery Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Folks -  Moss' annual Upholstery Sale started last  week and runs through
to May 3rd.  This is the sale that many of you have been waiting for.  Drakes
British Motors will be honoring the sale prices offered by Moss to our
Canadian customers.    To come up with our Canadian price we do the currency
conversion (2% this week) then add 6% to the US sale prices which helps to
cover freight, brokerage and taxes to get the product into our hands.  I'm not
aware of any other Canadian supplier that even honors the Moss Motors sale,  I
think they must like the price reductions so they can put some more coin in
their pockets.

This sale covers seat kits, carpet sets, panel kits, tops, tonneaus, boot
covers, some steering wheels, shift knobs and side curtains, so if the timing
is right for you, we have some incredible savings to pass on to you.  As most
of you probably realize, we adjust our prices every Monday morning to bring
them into line with any currency changes.  This means that you will
continually get your best prices on all your British parts requirements from
Drakes.  If you would like a quote on any upholstery item, just send us an
email and we will get back to you immediately.  You can get all of the sale
prices at www.mossmotors.com   We suggest that you order early, as many of
these items will sell out quickly, and later orders may end up backordered.



Here are just a few samples of the sale pricing:

    #244-315    MGB Carpet Set                 US Reg. Price is $ 234.95.
Your cost $ 213.80 Cdn.

    #641-120 MGB 1962-67 seat kit           US Reg. Price is $344.95.    Your
cost $302.35 Cdn.
    #639-380 TR4A-TR6 carpet set           US Reg. Price is $289.95.    Your
cost $266.75 Cdn.
    #489-070 14" wood steering wheel    US Reg. Price is $289.95.   Your cost
$235.40 Cdn.
    #642-640    73-76 TR6 Black Seat Kit  US Reg. Price is $ 584.95.  Your
cost $ 537.80 Cdn.
    #640-120    TR6 black Vinyl Top           US Reg. Price is $ 369.95.  Your
cost $ 303.45 Cdn.
    #246-270    MGA Panel Kit Blk/White   US Reg. Price is $ 314.95.  Your
cost $ 272.15 Cdn.
    #242-655    MGB 71-80 Vinyl Top          US Reg. Price is $309.95.   Your
cost $285.10 Cdn.

We really appreciate the support of our customers from across Canada, and will
continually strive to earn your business.

Cheers,

Len & Scott Drake
Drakes British Motors Inc.
WWW.DRAKESBRITISHMOTORS.COM
phone 250-763-0883
fax      250-861-8051

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 01:51:38 2013
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References: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 03:37:53 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: dave@ranteer.com
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint overspray
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my garage/ shop, I am the cause for getting paint overspray on my TR6.
I have found that using one of the clay bar products easily removes the
overspray leaving the car glass smooth each time.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to  be
> some
> very light overspray on it in a couple places.  Like it was in a shop
> where
> someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car was
> covered.  You can even see a distinct line where there was something
> covering
> the car.  Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where it was
> covered to rough in the overspray.
>
> Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint
> successfully?  And of course how.  The paint otherwise, including these
> areas,
> is very nice.
>
> Thanks!

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 06:32:33 2013
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From: "Fisher, Ed" <edwd@ti.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: overspray
Thread-Index: Ac47ZmhzUl6D9NkgRZeYfGYbWr9Ebw==
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 12:23:47 +0000
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Subject: [TR] overspray
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave:

There are two ways that I have successfully removed overspray.  One is to
apply a product called Acryliclean, found at body shop supply stores.  It is
specifically made to remove greases, contaminants, and oversprays.  It is
virtually effortless.  A coat of wax will be required where the product was
wiped onto the surface(s).  The other method is to use a clay bar, wiped
gently onto the surface(s) using copious amounts of water to allow the clay to
glide.  You can usually find these at decent auto parts stores or online for
sure.  If the clay sticks you are either pressing too hard or you do not have
enough water as a lubricant.  The clay will pick up the overspray.  Periodic
kneading may be required depending on how large an area is affected, and a
coat of wax afterwards is recommended.  I use clay bars about once every 6
months to remove contaminants from tree sap, bird droppings, acid rain, etc.
before polishing sequences to obtain show shines on the collectables.

I believe that you will find both methods far easier than you could have
imagined.

All the best,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
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All,



I've had the same type of fuel pump on various TR3's and TR4's for over 50
years. Never had a failure, and, if I did, it's mounted right on the side of
the engine in plain view and can be reached with a 1/4" drive socket, not from
underneath the car, close to the gas tank, where I can't reach it, and can
only look at it while waiting for the recovery vehicle . It's very quiet and
does not vibrate; at least I cannot hear it above the normal engine and
exhaust noises. It requires no wiring or fuses: has no wiring connections that
can corrode, get oil soaked, catch fire, B or fall off. It has a glass bowl in
which to view the presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; and a
priming lever. If properly installed, it doesn't leak. It does not present an
additional fire hazard, requiring an inertia switch B in case of an accident,
because itB ceases to pump fuel B when the engine stops. It was made by AC of
England.



Well, at least this series of email exchanges didn't call it an "upgrade"!



Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 08:06:12 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Fisher, Ed'" <edwd@ti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED8A365@DLEE12.ent.ti.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 06:53:40 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac47ZmhzUl6D9NkgRZeYfGYbWr9EbwADBCrQ
Subject: Re: [TR] overspray
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been using PPG acryliclean for many years and I can safely say that
it will not remove paint.  Think about it, the product's main purpose is to
remove grease, tar and other foreign matter prior to applying paint.  If it
would remove paint, then it would not be good for final preparation prior to
applying more coats.  But if the overspray is some sort of undercoating, it
probably will be good for that since most undercoating is made from some
form of asphalt.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fisher, Ed
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 5:24 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] overspray

Dave:

There are two ways that I have successfully removed overspray.  One is to
apply a product called Acryliclean, found at body shop supply stores.  It is
specifically made to remove greases, contaminants, and oversprays.  It is
virtually effortless.  A coat of wax will be required where the product was
wiped onto the surface(s).  The other method is to use a clay bar, wiped
gently onto the surface(s) using copious amounts of water to allow the clay
to
glide.  You can usually find these at decent auto parts stores or online for
sure.  If the clay sticks you are either pressing too hard or you do not
have
enough water as a lubricant.  The clay will pick up the overspray.  Periodic
kneading may be required depending on how large an area is affected, and a
coat of wax afterwards is recommended.  I use clay bars about once every 6
months to remove contaminants from tree sap, bird droppings, acid rain, etc.
before polishing sequences to obtain show shines on the collectables.

I believe that you will find both methods far easier than you could have
imagined.

All the best,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 08:07:08 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 09:58:30 -0400
References: <mailman.1169.1366180358.2062.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint overspray
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Try a clay bar. One time I parked in a restaurant parking lot for a  
club event. When we came out a guy nearby was spraying his house, wind  
blowing in my direction. The clay bar worked really well but I never  
got it all removed from the top.

Allen
On Apr 17, 2013, at 2:32 AM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to   
> be some
> very light overspray on it in a couple places.  Like it was in a  
> shop where
> someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car  
> was
> covered.  You can even see a distinct line where there was something  
> covering
> the car.  Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where  
> it was
> covered to rough in the overspray.
>
> Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint
> successfully?  And of course how.  The paint otherwise, including  
> these areas,
> is very nice.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumph list'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 08:45:14 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac47ck6FZoOCTt8JSImpcPUtPIxxEgADr6CQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> It has a glass bowl in which to view the 
> presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; 

You forgot to mention that the filter can be cleaned and reused
indefinitely, instead of needing to be replaced every year or two.
<g>

My luck hasn't been quite as good (or as long) as Ed's; but in almost 40
years of driving a series of more-or-less decrepit TRs, I don't recall ever
once having a trip interrupted by a fuel pump problem.  Only a small leak
now and again, like when I found that the original diaphragms don't stand up
to MTBE (and ethanol).

By way of contrast, I had only owned my Stag for a year or so, when the
electric fuel pump abruptly quit and would have stranded me if I didn't have
a spare along.  I also have fond memories of riding with a buddy in his MGA,
and thumping the electric fuel pump (through the convenient access panel
behind the seats) to keep us going down the road.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:46:35 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac47gbnsv2ffRL95RBatDfAXJ+qXoA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am stuck, in unfamiliar territory.  I have a TR4, and am using a bent
fingered TR6 pressure plate with lightened flywheel of very uncertain
pedigree. 

 

Shouldn't there be some dowel pins on the flywheel which would serve to
perfectly center the pressure plate?

 

I am dry fitting them together, I have six holes in the pressure plate
lining up perfectly with the tapped holes in the flywheel. but pressure
plate holes are oversized clearance holes. 

 

None of the extra smaller diameter holes in the pressure plate line up with
any of the extra existing holes in this flywheel.

Please advise, should I have a machinist balance and drill me some holes for
dowel pins? Or is this plastic clutch alignment tool supposed to work a
miracle? 

 

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 10:26:32 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Will Daehler'" <will.daehler@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 09:14:56 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac47gbnsv2ffRL95RBatDfAXJ+qXoAABIRtw
Subject: Re: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There should definitely be two precision dowels to locate the pressure plate
to the flywheel.

Given the uncertainties of using aluminum flywheels anyway, I might be
tempted to just replace it, rather than trying to have the machining
corrected.  Who knows what other flaws are hiding inside?

The plastic tool is only for aligning the friction plate to the flywheel
(and don't work so well for that either).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <002a01ce3b82$bf0b0200$3d210600$@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:55:13 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's my whole write up on the HVDA installation. You'll even see a link 
about the "locating" dowels.

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5Speed.htm

Bob


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....

-----Original Message----- 
From: Will Daehler
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 11:46 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3

I am stuck, in unfamiliar territory.  I have a TR4, and am using a bent
fingered TR6 pressure plate with lightened flywheel of very uncertain
pedigree.



Shouldn't there be some dowel pins on the flywheel which would serve to
perfectly center the pressure plate?



I am dry fitting them together, I have six holes in the pressure plate
lining up perfectly with the tapped holes in the flywheel. but pressure
plate holes are oversized clearance holes.



None of the extra smaller diameter holes in the pressure plate line up with
any of the extra existing holes in this flywheel.

Please advise, should I have a machinist balance and drill me some holes for
dowel pins? Or is this plastic clutch alignment tool supposed to work a
miracle?





Will Daehler

63 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 12:33:37 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:05:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Bill Beech <wbeech@flash.net>
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I have tried various fuel pump locations on my TR3A. I routinely drive my
car hard in 100+ degrees in the summer, often while climbing a 4,000 foot
grade. Several times I thought the car was vapor locking. I had my electric
fuel pump on the left inner fender. I decided to move it lower and mounted it
down on the frame below the firewall. It was hard to see and get at and
whenever I changed the oil it got all over it. It also got coated with flung
oil and road grime. I didn't like it in the trunk either. I ended up mounting
it on the underside of the trunk floor upside down. If I want to check it out,
I do it with the wheel off when topping off the lever shock. It seems to stay
clean and cool and gravity prevents vapor lock.
     I used to have a NAPA
parts fuel pump that ran really smooth and quiet. I accidentally broke the
wires off it at the housing, which is the only time the TR didn't make it home
on its own power. That was when I had it mounted on the frame at the firewall.
I replaced the NAPA pump with a Facet pump and that thing periodically hammers
like a jack hammer and I hate it. It also vibrates a lot even with rubber
mounts. Next time I am in there I am going to put in a NAPA pump again.
   
 Good luck and drive safe.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Have decided that I am going to use an
electric FP on the TR3B that is
currently under construction.  Right now, I
have engine in frame and have
successfully had a couple of test starts using
just the fuel in the float
bowls.  Next step is get the fuel lines installed
back to where the tank
will someday be located. 

To that end, I was wondering
that the collective wisdom is on the location
of an electric FP?
1. Engine
compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank
seems good too,
if a bit out of the way.
2. Frame or Body mounting?
3. Firewall or inner
fender?
4. Mount in former mechanical FP location?
5. Anyone able to hide the
electric FP and route the line through the old
mechanical FP for authenticity?
6. Any other tips on usage or connections?

Any advice or cautions from you
who have BTDT are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 17 14:21:38 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:11:44 -0700
From: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.9.1366221604.10205.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
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My long-suffering TR4A came to me with a replacement mechanical fuel pump and a 
pretty bodged engine-compartment plumbing setup. One of the first tasks I 
undertook was to recreate the hard lines per the manual (I couldn't find a 
source for the pre-made parts).

Then I got to discover what many other TR4A owners had learned: the factory 
setup leads to vapor lock and hard starting when hot, because the fuel line is 
in the primary heat soak area above and behind the radiator.

And then I experience the classic fuel pump failure, where the cross-shaft 
comes out and lets the actuating arm drop into the sump. That was way too much 
fun. Lucky for me, no damage was done.

The Competition Prep manual suggested mounting the electric fuel pump in the 
driver's side rear wheel well, which I did: I put a cylindrical Facet pump on 
the vertical panel that rises up from the floor to the rear bench, using the 
rubber mounts. I used as much of the original on-frame plumbing as possible; I 
installed a toggle switch under the steering column as a kill switch and an 
in-line fuse.

I think that locating the pump near the fuel tank is a good idea, because these 
pumps really do push better than they pull. I had some experience with these 
pumps from my GT6+, and I decided that I wanted a filter and regulator. I was 
also flirting with Italian cars at that time, and they tended to have electric 
pumps in the rear with a FISPA filter/regulator in the engine compartment. So I 
mounted one of those on a blanking plate where the original mechanical pump was!

I also took this opportunity to run the fuel line to the carbs behind the 
engine, away from the radiator.

This part of the car, at least, has not given me any trouble since :-)

chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 16:42:41 -0400
References: <mailman.9.1366221604.10205.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<516F0200.3000109@dimebank.com>
To: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement?
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FWIW, in the LBCs that I have owned that had electric fuel pumps (i.e., MGA,
MGB, & a Midget), they were all mounted in the rear near the gas tank.  I
never had a problem with any of them and I owned them all many years.

John

> I think that locating the pump near the fuel tank is a good idea, because
these pumps really do push better than they pull. I had some experience with
these pumps from my GT6+, and I decided that I wanted a filter and regulator.
I was also flirting with Italian cars at that time, and they tended to have
electric pumps in the rear with a FISPA filter/regulator in the engine
compartment. So I mounted one of those on a blanking plate where the original
mechanical pump was!

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 18 19:43:43 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 21:39:30 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/15/2013 9:20 PM, glemon@neb.rr.com wrote:
>   I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in.  I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent.


I got mine in.  Perhaps you needed to hire a sailor to do some swearing 
for you?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 18 21:38:27 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 20:36:38 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac48n9Yc3M4r7BXkQ7GNXCv8wnNI/QADv2hQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid Yahoo
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> Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily 
> deferred due to user complaints - 

Mebbe it's not Yahoo ...

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 18 22:54:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 22:54:45 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid Yahoo
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Randall wrote:
>> Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily
>> deferred due to user complaints -
> Mebbe it's not Yahoo ...
>
>

Well since Yahoo seems to have no facility whatsoever for me to find out 
why it is
happening and what I can do to stop it or just contact a real person, 
I'll keep
claiming Yahoo is stupid.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 19 11:47:22 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 13:49:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A
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List,
Is there some way of installing a backup switch in my TR4A transmission
without drilling and tapping holes or whatever..?
I keep forgetting to ask this. I saw that Moss sells the switch but I have no
Idea where it goes.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 19 12:05:58 2013
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References: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<5170CE15.4040802@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 14:01:24 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid Yahoo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wonder if its another case of reporting spam by accident vs deleting....
On Apr 19, 2013 12:52 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Randall wrote:
>
>> Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily
>>> deferred due to user complaints -
>>>
>> Mebbe it's not Yahoo ...
>>
>>
>>
> Well since Yahoo seems to have no facility whatsoever for me to find out
> why it is
> happening and what I can do to stop it or just contact a real person, I'll
> keep
> claiming Yahoo is stupid.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 19 13:02:29 2013
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Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 15:01:15 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <FE06E76E4B5B49159053B46B546F394A@DaveLaptop>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

You might want to see if you can source a TR6 transmission or just the 
shifter portion. It has the switches you need.

I see 6 transmissions for sale on Eban and CL all the time for 50 to 75 
bucks.

Bob

On 04/19/2013 01:49 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> List,
> Is there some way of installing a backup switch in my TR4A transmission
> without drilling and tapping holes or whatever..?
> I keep forgetting to ask this. I saw that Moss sells the switch but I have no
> Idea where it goes.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 19 22:27:07 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <FE06E76E4B5B49159053B46B546F394A@DaveLaptop>
	<5171947B.4090802@adelphia.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 23:25:44 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The switches are not too hard to install, just make sure you get the drill 
bit centered with a punch when you start, then you need to tap it for the 
right size threads, I think I got a set of three of the right size taps on 
e-bay when I did the overdrive switch on mine (same idea, different 
location) so if you decide to go this route let me know, I have two and 
maybe three of these taps I will never use again.

If you choose not to go this route you could do something like I had on my 
BGT way back when a simple on/off switch under the dash to turn on the back 
up lights, if you are doing it to be seen you probably the manual switch 
isn't the way to go (you'll forget to use it half the time), if you are 
doing it to see better when you back up (long dark driveway or whatever) 
which was the purpose on my BGT, it works pretty well, cause if you can't 
see when backing up the light bulb goes off in your head and you turn it on. 
Course I often people would honk and flick their headlights at me, doh, 
forgot to turn the back up light off.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 08:03:57 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Greg Lemon'" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 07:02:32 -0700
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	FILETIME=[BE82F0A0:01CE3DCF]
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Help - I Need a Vehicle Inspection in Garden Grove CA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My dad bid on and won a 1969 Jag E type in Garden Grove CA last night.

We need to do a vehicle inspection Today/Tomorrow AM.

I can drive out or fly out from Las Vegas to do it, but would prefer not to.

Is there anybody on the list who lives nearby that would be
interested/qualified to do an inspection?

We'd be happy to compensate.  Please call me if interested.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 13:24:41 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:23:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the current recommendations for gauge repair.  I tried emailing Mo-Ma but it bounced.  
Thanks
C
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 17:50:30 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:49:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair
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On my fifth restoration and always used Nisonger in NY.  Never been
disappointed.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2013 3:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair

What is the current recommendations for gauge repair.  I tried emailing
Mo-Ma but it bounced.  
Thanks
C
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 17:53:45 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:52:50 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac4+IcbuFku64PzFToSCGMUJGcjSmA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:

Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a
question.

This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is
broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying loose
and there is a hole atop the tank.  If the gas cap has a hole in it, how
important is it to have the breather tube?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 20 17:54:08 2013
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 20:10:08 -0400
	z3rO3DsjeQgc5BcT/53oc0iVrvA4lHsxDF3zM4bgT6mjf3ilNg
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Subject: Re: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The 6-Pack gang have mostly moved to Morris at West Valley 
(http://westvalleyinstruments.com/) for great work, fair prices and fast 
turn around time.

Bob


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2013 3:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair

What is the current recommendations for gauge repair.  I tried emailing 
Mo-Ma but it bounced.
Thanks
C


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:06:33 -0500
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tak breather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Your gas cap has a hole in it?  Must not  be stock.   If it is vented, the
breather pipe should be unnecessary.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2013, at 6:52 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

> List:
>
> Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a
> question.
>
> This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is
> broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying
loose
> and there is a hole atop the tank.  If the gas cap has a hole in it, how
> important is it to have the breather tube?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:39:41 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tak breather
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the gas cap is vented, the original vent is not needed. The old vent
hole should be sealed to eliminate fumes and smell inside the cockpit.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> List:
>
> Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a
> question.
>
> This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is
> broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying
> loose
> and there is a hole atop the tank.  If the gas cap has a hole in it, how
> important is it to have the breather tube?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 06:26:48 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 05:25:26 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac4+JD38Gp9lq13MR8KDma73vnD1EgAZbxSg
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tak breather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Your gas cap has a hole in it?  Must not  be stock.  

Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that appeared to be original.
Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister after the original got
stolen on my previous TR3A.  Not through the chrome part, obviously, but the
inner plate that actually covers the opening to the tank.
http://goo.gl/y5uCn

And I've been blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed
that it dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank.
No apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended periods
of time.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:46:41 +0000 (UTC)
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tak breather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message -----


Randall,



There you go again, confusing us all with facts again!



Ed




> Your gas cap has a hole in it? B Must not B be stock. B 

Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that appeared to be original.
Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister after the original got
stolen on my previous TR3A. B Not through the chrome part, obviously, but the
inner plate that actually covers the opening to the tank.
http://goo.gl/y5uCn

And I've been blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed
that it dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank.
No apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended periods
of time.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 11:36:06 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 12:34:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!!

one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11.  after
charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts?  donbt remember exactly.

second battery is one Ibve had for a few years, but worked in another car a
couple months ago.  charged it all night.

third battery is out of my honda.  die hard, probably a couple years old, no
issues that I can ever remember.

the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very
weak.

the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very weak.

third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very weak.

after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak.

Ibm thinking itbs a starter motor?  should get it tested/rebuilt?  could
it just be a bad ground?  I should get down there and clean all the contacts?
most lights work as does the horn.  ammeter looks like it works.

no history of the car.  was told it ran when parked (didnbt they all???),
was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some point, is
rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting.  TR3B

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 11:54:57 2013
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References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 13:51:51 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

sounds to me like one of the brushes in your starter may not be making
contact.

I just helped a friend clean and refurb his starter (TR3).  Cleaned
the commutator and replaced the brushes.

Starts like a champ now.


On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 1:34 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!!
>
> one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11.  after
> charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts?  donb t remember exactly.
>
> second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another car
> a
> couple months ago.  charged it all night.
>
> third battery is out of my honda.  die hard, probably a couple years old,
> no
> issues that I can ever remember.
>
> the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak.
>
> Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor?  should get it tested/rebuilt?  could
> it just be a bad ground?  I should get down there and clean all the
> contacts?
> most lights work as does the horn.  ammeter looks like it works.
>
> no history of the car.  was told it ran when parked (didnb t they all???),
> was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some
> point, is
> rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting.  TR3B
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 10:55:46 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You might measure the voltage of the battery as it is cranking the engine
-- that can tell you a bit more about it's condition.

12V after charging is a bit low and, in any case, doesn't say much.

The auto parts places can load test your battery.  I wouldn't start taking
things apart until I was sure the battery was sound.

Geo


On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!!
>
> one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11.  after
> charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts?  donb t remember exactly.
>
> second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another car
> a
> couple months ago.  charged it all night.
>
> third battery is out of my honda.  die hard, probably a couple years old,
> no
> issues that I can ever remember.
>
> the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very
> weak.
>
> after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak.
>
> Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor?  should get it tested/rebuilt?  could
> it just be a bad ground?  I should get down there and clean all the
> contacts?
> most lights work as does the horn.  ammeter looks like it works.
>
> no history of the car.  was told it ran when parked (didnb t they all???),
> was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some
> point, is
> rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting.  TR3B
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun>
	<CANzE1bEgmjKHkJmC3Gqq5JWozTeqjZ=8f6JcQ_WzM7mYOq8b4A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 14:53:55 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac4+uYYZ56lkr5GLRECYIDqCtRPeZQAD74Kw
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you trying to start it with jumper cables from the battery to the car?
I had fresh 1 year old battery, but running good heavy duty jumpers from the
battery on the bench to back of the starter and to the engine block as a
ground yielded results much like yours.  Moved the battery over to the car
with good cables securely bolted in place and it starts like a champ.

One of many possibilities,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:56 PM
To: Dave
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?

You might measure the voltage of the battery as it is cranking the engine
-- that can tell you a bit more about it's condition.

12V after charging is a bit low and, in any case, doesn't say much.

The auto parts places can load test your battery.  I wouldn't start taking
things apart until I was sure the battery was sound.

Geo


On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!!
>
> one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11.  after 
> charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts?  donb t remember exactly.
>
> second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another 
> car a couple months ago.  charged it all night.
>
> third battery is out of my honda.  die hard, probably a couple years 
> old, no issues that I can ever remember.
>
> the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was 
> very weak.
>
> the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was 
> very weak.
>
> third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very 
> weak.
>
> after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak.
>
> Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor?  should get it tested/rebuilt?  
> could it just be a bad ground?  I should get down there and clean all 
> the contacts?
> most lights work as does the horn.  ammeter looks like it works.
>
> no history of the car.  was told it ran when parked (didnb t they 
> all???), was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored 
> at some point, is rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just 
> from sitting.  TR3B
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 14:42:26 2013
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From: WCA09@aol.com
Full-name: WCA09
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:41:06 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tak breather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall et al,
 
Just checked what I believe to be an original gas cap on my '61 TR3A.   The 
cap is out and disassembled for rechroming.  There is no vent hole on  the 
inner plate nor anywhere else that I can find.  Just an FYI ... there  are 
apparently a number of versions out there.
 
Bill
 
>> Your gas cap has a hole in it?  Must not  be  stock.  

> Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that  appeared to be original.
> Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister  after the original got
> stolen on my previous TR3A.  Not through the  chrome part, obviously, but 
the
> inner plate that actually covers the  opening to the tank.
> http://goo.gl/y5uCn

> And I've been  blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed
> that it  dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank.
> No  apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended 
periods
>  of time.

> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 15:31:35 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun><CANzE1bEgmjKHkJmC3Gqq5JWozTeqjZ=8f6JcQ_WzM7mYOq8b4A@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:25:32 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

no.  each of the three batteries were in the car.

-----Original Message----- 
From: wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 2:53 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?

Are you trying to start it with jumper cables from the battery to the car?
I had fresh 1 year old battery, but running good heavy duty jumpers from the
battery on the bench to back of the starter and to the engine block as a
ground yielded results much like yours.  Moved the battery over to the car
with good cables securely bolted in place and it starts like a champ.

One of many possibilities,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 15:32:49 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun>
	<CANhzkeOf6Jw3bQKYzVue0hdWzDT02msLGqZH0tc5pVDttmfgPg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:31:43 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

(of course) youtube has a video on rebuilding/refreshing your starter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EHQJDhxZc0

I wonder sometimes if I could learn brain surgery on youtube . . . 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Simo 
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:51 PM 
To: list Triumph 
Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor? 

sounds to me like one of the brushes in your starter may not be making
contact.

I just helped a friend clean and refurb his starter (TR3).  Cleaned
the commutator and replaced the brushes.

Starts like a champ now.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 21 22:15:47 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 23:13:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up?  which
means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line?
choke?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 07:06:04 2013
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References: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 06:04:26 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I usually undo the front connection of that (choke) rod that connects the
jets and let it drop down.  That also frees the choke cable.  Connecting
fuel line and air cleaners also off as I recall.

Probably a bad habit but I just grab hold of the big cable and lift it out
tail first by that.

Geo


On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 9:13 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up?  which
> means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line?
> choke?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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First, remove the left rear wheel....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b
Date: Sun, Apr 21, 2013 23:13


now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up?  which
means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line?
choke?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:17:20 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac4/D/eDSL3oQuvMQkusaQCsHpsJ0gAUymgw
Subject: Re: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just remove the nuts that hold the carbs, put a towel on top of the motor,
and roll the carbs up there without disconnecting the choke cable or any
linkage other the the lead arm.

Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:14 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b

now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up?  which
means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line?
choke?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:24:46 2013
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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:19:23 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac4/c4kruj3UZjvITEWO/Bk4T809xQ==
Subject: [TR] Anyone in North Houston that can look at a car? (Non-TR)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to bomb the list as this is a non-TR project.  My daughter is looking
at a Mazda on CraigsList that looks like a good car at a fair price but we
are 6 hours away.  Is there anyone close to Gulf Bond Rd off I-45 that could
take a quick drive and assess the car?   I would be more than happy to
comnpensate for time and expense.
 
Many Thanks,
Bill Beecher
435-503-2258

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:34:38 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 16:33:29 +0000 (UTC)
From: spamiam@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a TR4a with the stock seats.B  I find the lack of upper back support
tiring on drives longer than 45 minutes.B  I see that Moss-Europe has "Classic
Seats" with a headrest which fit the TR4a-TR6 range.B  They have "regular" and
"high back", and the difference looks to be maybe 2" in back height by
counting the pleats on the back.



Moss USA has a "Classic Seat" listed for the TR6 which is looks to be the same
as the Moss-Europe "classic seat", not the "high back" version.B  Has anyone
installed these seats?B  I f you are 6" to 6"-1 and are over 200 lb, how do
you find the fit regarding kidney support and height?



The cost of the high back seats, shipped from England looks like it will be
about $1550 including shipping.B  Do es anyone have a guess about the import
duty that will be charged?B  I assume it will be another $200 or so (price of
the s eats is #777).B  If these Moss-USA seats are the High back version, then
I would definitely get them from here.B  I find that some seats on new cars
hit my shoulder blades in just the wrong place and are quite uncomfortable, so
I probably need to have the "high back" version.



It would be nice to have the opportunity to sit in these sats before I buy,
but I bet there are few and far between.



-Tony

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 10:35:04 2013
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From: John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:33:31 -0400
	FILETIME=[20AD75E0:01CE3F77]
Cc: "spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Morning Lists,

Anyone have recommendations for removal of scale/sediments for small piping,
intake manifold, t-stat housing etc. when they are off the car?

Vinegar soak is the most common treatment I have read. Suggestions?

I have had the radiator boiled by a rad shop but had other parts off while
doing some repairs. It is for a '71 Spit that did not have regular flushes
(yes - shame on me).

Thanks for the help,

--John Henard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 13:33:01 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:31:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: spamiam@comcast.net
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
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Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a different/custom
mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats
that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white
piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats.

-Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: spamiam@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 12:51:26 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6

why donbt you put in miata seats? many tr6 people have done this. I
believe the early miata (1990?) had speakers in them as well.

-----Original Message-----
From: spamiam@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 11:33 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6

I have a TR4a with the stock seats.B I find the lack of upper back support
tiring on drives longer than 45 minutes.B I see that Moss-Europe has
"Classic
Seats" with a headrest which fit the TR4a-TR6 range.B They have "regular"
and
"high back", and the difference looks to be maybe 2" in back height by
counting the pleats on the back.



Moss USA has a "Classic Seat" listed for the TR6 which is looks to be the
same
as the Moss-Europe "classic seat", not the "high back" version.B Has anyone
installed these seats?B I f you are 6" to 6"-1 and are over 200 lb, how do
you find the fit regarding kidney support and height?



The cost of the high back seats, shipped from England looks like it will be
about $1550 including shipping.B Do es anyone have a guess about the import
duty that will be charged?B I assume it will be another $200 or so (price
of
the s eats is #777).B If these Moss-USA seats are the High back version,
then
I would definitely get them from here.B I find that some seats on new cars
hit my shoulder blades in just the wrong place and are quite uncomfortable,
so
I probably need to have the "high back" version.



It would be nice to have the opportunity to sit in these sats before I buy,
but I bet there are few and far between.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 14:03:01 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 13:01:26 -0700
References: <23844766.1191532.1366659090433.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
To: spamiam@comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 22, 2013, at 12:31 PM, spamiam@comcast.net wrote:

> Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a
different/custom
> mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats
> that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white
> piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats.

There are at least two different adapter brackets out there, that won't
require you to drill holes in the TR4A.

Check out Mr. Mikes for new covers:

http://mrmikes.com/miatahome.htm

They are pretty easy to install, and you can get black with white piping
made.

A few of pages regarding installation in a TR6:

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PattonMiataBrackets.htm

http://www.74tr6.com/miataseats.htm

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 16:23:25 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:21:34 -0400
From: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It buzzed a couple of times when I started it up for the season 
yesterday but it did start.  Today all I get is buzzing.

I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a 
ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)?

Will an ordinary modern starter solenoid do until my replacement comes?  
I have a modern Trombetta 12V 3-post solenoid lying around the house, 
I'm assuming I could only damage it and not anything else if I tried it....

Thanks,

Art

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "morgan" <morganthedog@twcny.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:47:17 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?
Thanks

Jim Fuller
Syracuse,NY

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 17:00:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 22:59:23 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing
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---- Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca> wrote: 
> I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a 
> ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)?

You might want to check that the battery connections are clean and tight; and that the battery itself is in good shape.  It's been awhile since I was inside a TR3 solenoid, but I don't recall it having the "buzzer" (aka pull-in coil) that many more modern solenoids have.

Your Trombetta solenoid will probably work OK, if it is intended for automotive applications.  The cables might not fit though, I believe most of them use 5/16" studs while the original TR3 solenoid was 1/4".

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 17:08:34 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "morgan" <morganthedog@twcny.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:07:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
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Jim, I did the same thing with mine, I did use heat, after some trial and 
error and getting it soft but not too soft I got it on there and it has held 
up fine for a couple of years now and readings as high as 80 lbs of pressure 
at start up.  That being said it is on my list of things to replace, 
wouldn't want it to pop off and loose oil and pressure.  Greg Lemon

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 17:14:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 23:09:52 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, morgan <morganthedog@twcny.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
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---- morgan <morganthedog@twcny.rr.com> wrote: 
> The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
> remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
> Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?

Try this: take a block of wood and drill a hole the same diameter as your plastic line.  Cut the block in half through the center of the hole.  Lay the line into the resulting groove with the end protruding just slightly from one side, then clamp the blocks back together (so they grip the line tightly).  Ream the end of the line a bit, for a slight taper.  Now drive the fitting in with a hammer and another block of wood.

Or, you might consider just replacing the fitting with a "vibration-resistant" compression fitting from MMC (if the block threads match):
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/177

That's what I used when adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag.

Randall

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing
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On 4/22/2013 6:59 PM, Randall wrote:
> ---- Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a
>> ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)?
> You might want to check that the battery connections are clean and tight; and that the battery itself is in good shape.  It's been awhile since I was inside a TR3 solenoid, but I don't recall it having the "buzzer" (aka pull-in coil) that many more modern solenoids have.
Cleaned the terminals and replaced a crack battery connector (new last 
year) and it fired right up.  That's when I found the fuel leak ;)
>
> Your Trombetta solenoid will probably work OK, if it is intended for automotive applications.  The cables might not fit though, I believe most of them use 5/16" studs while the original TR3 solenoid was 1/4".
Yeah the posts do look bigger but the leads look a bit bigger then the 
OEM ones so I might have been able to make it fit.  I'll throw it in the 
boot for now

Thanks all.

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 23:29:56 +0000 (UTC)
From: spamiam@comcast.net
To: Bob Danielson <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
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Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob, 

I will have to pick your brain in the future. BTW, I _love_ your website! I will be getting the Goodparts CV joint half shafts this year, and I will be using your article in depth. 

I will check out your miata seat info. One issue, is I really don't want to sit much higher. I already have to duck my head to see a traffic light when the top is up andmI am first in line . 

-Tony 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> 
To: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw360@mac.com>, spamiam@comcast.net 
Cc: "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 5:04:12 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 

Not so on the Miata brackets with regard to drilling holes in the floor. 
Order the brackets made by Rick Patton 
(http://www.pattonmachine.com/Miata-Brackets.htm) and once the brackets are 
mounted to the floor and properly aligned, you can install/remove the seats 
in 5 minutes. Everything bolts up to the stock TR6 mounting holes. 

I was in Florida last week and stopped by to visit Mr. Mike of Miata seat 
cover fame. He and I frequently work together on my custom interior panel 
kits and his seat covers. 

I love my Miata seats! 

Bob 


www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 
1975 Mimosa TR6 with: 
Throttle Body Injection 
Toyota 5 Speed 
Nissan Diff 
CVJs 
And more.... 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Darrell Walker 
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 4:01 PM 
To: spamiam@comcast.net 
Cc: Triumphs List 
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 

On Apr 22, 2013, at 12:31 PM, spamiam@comcast.net wrote: 

> Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a 
different/custom 
> mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats 
> that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white 
> piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats. 

There are at least two different adapter brackets out there, that won't 
require you to drill holes in the TR4A. 

Check out Mr. Mikes for new covers: 

http://mrmikes.com/miatahome.htm 

They are pretty easy to install, and you can get black with white piping 
made. 

A few of pages regarding installation in a TR6: 

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm 

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PattonMiataBrackets.htm 

http://www.74tr6.com/miataseats.htm 

-Darrell 

-- 
Darrell Walker 
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 
Vancouver, WA, USA 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 19:16:13 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 20:14:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Jim,


If it was me, I would not try and repair it.  I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF.


Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement.


TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line.


They are located on the web:  http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ .


I tried to get a free one but that did not work out.  :)


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 04/22/13, morgan<morganthedog@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
 
The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?
Thanks

Jim Fuller
Syracuse,NY

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 06:11:09 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:09:51 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: morgan <morganthedog@twcny.rr.com>
References: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
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Jim,

Forget repair, get the SS line from Ted at TSI as others have suggested.

Bob
On 04/22/2013 06:47 PM, morgan wrote:
> The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
> remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
> Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?
> Thanks
>
> Jim Fuller
> Syracuse,NY

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 08:34:56 2013
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From: John Henard <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 10:33:37 -0400
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	FILETIME=[8B0BF3E0:01CE402F]
Subject: Re: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal
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Pete,Thank you for the suggestion. I am going to start by cleaning with
Costco's version of simple green and then try vinegar. Depending on the
effectiveness I will probably try CLR for the final step. Thanks again.

--John Henard



 To: johnhenard@hotmail.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
From: pryner@verizon.net
CC: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:57:34 -0400

I just used simple green on my dodge truck eve valve and cooler.  Two to one
mix (water to cleaner) let sit overnight and it came out like New.  Never used
it before, am pleasantly surprised.
Pete

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John Henard" <johnhenard@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: "spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal
Date: Mon, Apr 22, 2013 12:33 pm


Morning Lists,

Anyone have recommendations for removal of scale/sediments for small piping,
intake manifold, t-stat housing etc. when they are off the car?

Vinegar soak is the most common treatment I have read. Suggestions?

I have had the radiator boiled by a rad shop but had other parts off while
doing some repairs. It is for a '71 Spit that did not have regular flushes
(yes - shame on me).

Thanks for the help,

--John Henard

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 13:21:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'thenicholls@verizon.net'" <thenicholls@verizon.net>, 
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer
traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had
stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken
end of the pipe. When the traffic cleared, I took off down the highway.
Completely seized the camshaft about 1 km later. Stuck on side of highway for
several hours in 95 degree sun. End of engine, end of date, end of girlfriend.

I really really hate that tube. My solution was to convert to an electric oil
pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths
part from gaugeguys a few years later when slightly lessened poverty
permitted.

Mark
1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of thenicholls@verizon.net
Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74

 Jim,


If it was me, I would not try and repair it.  I had a catastrophic failure of
that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio,
and onto my $600 carpet from TRF.


Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement.


TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line.


They are located on the web:  http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ .


I tried to get a free one but that did not work out.  :)


Craig
72 Triumph TR6


On 04/22/13, morgan<morganthedog@twcny.rr.com> wrote:

The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will
fit.
Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?
Thanks

Jim Fuller
Syracuse,NY

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:09:18 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:08:01 -0400
thread-index: Ac5AZlZ4UFIROdE9T0uIHUnJT45Y/g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Spa White Paint Code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white dashes on a
TR4?  I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335.  My painter can't
find this code.  Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

1963 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6

Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:09:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:08:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I was really thinking you were better off until I heard you lost an engine.


I got off easy.....Craig
 
 
On 04/23/13, Mark Hooper<mhooper@indiefilmnet.com> wrote:
 
I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken end of the pipe. When the traffic cleared, I took off down the highway. Completely seized the camshaft about 1 km later. Stuck on side of highway for several hours in 95 degree sun. End of engine, end of date, end of girlfriend. 

I really really hate that tube. My solution was to convert to an electric oil pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths part from gaugeguys a few years later when slightly lessened poverty permitted.

Mark
1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls@verizon.net
Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74

 Jim,


If it was me, I would not try and repair it. I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF.


Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement.


TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line.


They are located on the web: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ .


I tried to get a free one but that did not work out. :)


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 04/22/13, morgan<morganthedog@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
 
The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret?
Thanks

Jim Fuller
Syracuse,NY

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:11:45 2013
Return-Path: <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:12:13 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Yahoo, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe the yahoo, btinternet, sbcglobal issue is resolved.
I'll keep a close eye on list mail to check.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:15:13 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:13:40 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130329
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it)

My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I 
supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well.

Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I 
can find the paperwork.

I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it 
looks like on my 4.

Bob

On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white dashes on a
> TR4?  I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335.  My painter can't
> find this code.  Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 1963 TR4 CT5212LO
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:21:44 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "thenicholls@verizon.net" <thenicholls@verizon.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

why not replace it with the steel line from the TR3?
I'm guessing that they
are the same fittings
Frank
 
 
whoooo hooo back getting mail
 
 
 

From:
"thenicholls@verizon.net" <thenicholls@verizon.net>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:08 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74


I was really thinking you were better off
until I heard you lost an engine.


I got off easy.....Craig


On 04/23/13,
Mark Hooper<mhooper@indiefilmnet.com> wrote:

I too had a disastrous fail of
the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer traffic jam idling with low
pressure, did not notice that the gauge had stopped reading as all the engine
oil drained on the road through the broken end of the pipe. When the traffic
cleared, I took off down the highway. Completely seized the camshaft about 1
km later. Stuck on side of highway for several hours in 95 degree sun. End of
engine, end of date, end of girlfriend. 

I really really hate that tube. My
solution was to convert to an electric oil pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit
from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths part from gaugeguys a few years
later when slightly lessened poverty permitted.

Mark
1972 TR6


-----Original
Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls@verizon.net
Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6
oil pressure line leak 74

Jim,


If it was me, I would not try and repair it.
I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured
into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF.


Based on
my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement.


TSI-TR250 ,
3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line.


They are located on the web:
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/.


I tried to get a free one but that did
not work out. :)


Craig
72 Triumph TR6


On 04/22/13,
morgan<morganthedog@twcny.rr.com> wrote:

The hard plastic oil gauge line
leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to
remove the last 2 inches and put
the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit.
Heat made it too soft too fast.
What is the secret?
Thanks

Jim Fuller
Syracuse,NY

** triumphs@autox.team.net
**

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <5176F92D.4030107@bradakis.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:16:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, Triumphs
  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Yahoo, etc.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

im yahoo'ing
 
thanks Mark

From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To:
Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:12 PM
Subject: [TR] Yahoo, etc.


I believe the yahoo, btinternet, sbcglobal issue
is resolved.
I'll keep a close eye on list mail to check.

mjb.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:23:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:18:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
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Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion
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I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here.
I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator.  
I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same honed liners.  Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF.  Runs spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it.
But...
On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on cool days.  
Block was boiled and cleaned.  New radiator.  Proven pistons and liners.  Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize.  
I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer.  
Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 15:23:43 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com>
	<5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:20:51 -0400
thread-index: AQKh+DOcz1NXRhK6xvgrcS1mcVh/pQKKGINElyiPjkA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That would be great.  He said the local ppg supply house couldn't find code
in their database.  jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr@adelphia.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:14 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code

Jim,

I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it)

My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I
supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well.

Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I can
find the paperwork.

I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it looks
like on my 4.

Bob

On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white 
> dashes on a TR4?  I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335.  My 
> painter can't find this code.  Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help 
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 1963 TR4 CT5212LO
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:59:00 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, terryrs@comcast.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote: 
> Block was boiled and cleaned.  New radiator.  Proven pistons and liners.  Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize.  
> I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer.  
> Thoughts?

You didn't mention thermostat, nor checking that the temp gauge was still accurate.  Replace the water pump?  Grille? Air deflector?  Distributor?  Re-tune the carbs?

Could the exhaust have gotten partially clogged while you were working?  (eg mouse crawled into the pipe)

IMO if it is getting hot at speed, then an electric fan is not likely to help.  You're going to have to find the problem and fix it.

FWIW, I've had really persistent overheating problems 3 times now (with three different TR3/A).  First time, I'm pretty sure it was worn carb jets or it might have been the carb modifications (done by a previous owner).  Both second and third times, it proved to be a radiator that "couldn't possibly be bad", but was.  Sorry, that doesn't help much.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 16:14:52 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com><5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net>
	<003d01ce4068$6fe52df0$4faf89d0$@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:56:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like that code, too.

thank you

-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 4:20 PM
To: 'Bob Labuz'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code

That would be great.  He said the local ppg supply house couldn't find code
in their database.  jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr@adelphia.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:14 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code

Jim,

I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it)

My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I
supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well.

Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I can
find the paperwork.

I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it looks
like on my 4.

Bob

On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white
> dashes on a TR4?  I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335.  My
> painter can't find this code.  Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 1963 TR4 CT5212LO
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala FL 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:10:02 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote: 
> I'm sure it means the starter is going bad anyway, but seems that there is some connection between very cold (30's) temps and the starter kicking in.  
> 
> ...Or is he off base with this?

Certainly possible.  But my experience (back when I lived where it got cold) was that the engine would frequently fire once (kicking the starter drive out) and then fail to start.  I would have to back off the starter button, wait for it to stop spinning, then try again.  My buddy's MGA did the same thing.  It happened much less often in warm weather (but still occasionally).  Not a sign of a failing starter as far as I could see.  

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:18:22 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com> wrote: 
> I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer
> traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had
> stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken

Just a thought, if that kind of thing worries you: It should be fairly easy to wire an oil pressure switch so it kills the engine if you lose oil pressure.  There even exist oil pressure gauges with this function built into them (though probably not to match the other gauges).

Guess I've been lucky though.  I've lost oil pressure several times and always noticed before any serious damage was done.  I try to make it a habit to scan the gauges frequently, but the change in engine noise has alerted me first, every time.  Usually it just means I need to add oil :)

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: terryrs@comcast.net,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:38:32 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Uncool_Coolant_Confusion?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

200 is a good temp for the additives in the oil.
But such a big change from previous is worrisome.
Aluminum or copper radiator?  Water pump working (fan belt slip)?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion
Date: Tue, Apr 23, 2013 16:18


I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here.
I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator.  
I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same honed liners.  Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF.  Runs spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it.
But...
On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on cool days.  
Block was boiled and cleaned.  New radiator.  Proven pistons and liners.  Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize.  
I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer.  
Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 19:42:26 2013
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>
	<1649227787.1224761.1366751930294.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:40:39 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac5AaKdsi2rQ4MkXQqOlcS+yC8/JlgAI0c6Q
Subject: Re: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Terry;

Before you start spending money, double check your timing, then check your
carbs to make sure you don't have the mixture set too lean.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:19 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion

I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here.
I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using
the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator.  
I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same
honed liners.  Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF.  Runs
spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it.
But...
On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on
cool days.  
Block was boiled and cleaned.  New radiator.  Proven pistons and liners.
Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within
tolerances by going oversize.  
I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this
summer.  
Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 21:52:58 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:51:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] noises
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think my left front brake is worn out.  Is it a big deal to fix?Behind the
left side of my rollbar I'm getting some very pronounced squeaking.  Any ideas
on these?  '74 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 21:59:57 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:01:12 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1366775480.69899.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] noises
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John Summers wrote:
> I think my left front brake is worn out.  Is it a big deal to fix?
If it just worn pads, no problem.  If the worn pads have chewed up the 
rotor,
more complicated.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 23 22:45:05 2013
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From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:40:24 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi! Check out   www. trademe.co.nz       586272211, TR3B for sale.   Also
overdrive gear box - 286179254

A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'ashleys'" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <474E2AC9343144A8A19FD7E45872641A@AshleysPC>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 23:54:57 -0500
thread-index: Ac5ApmVifE2Y3MNoQcK8T70LHz+P4gAAUb8g
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B For Sale.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the exchange rate NZ to US dollar? 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ashleys
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 11:40 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale.

Hi! Check out   www. trademe.co.nz       586272211, TR3B for sale.   Also
overdrive gear box - 286179254

A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:05:27 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR7 for sale in Kentucky
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/3761612982.html

In case one of you might be looking for a TR7 project.

Brad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 25 14:05:04 2013
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Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:00:01 -0400
From: Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

for a number of reasons, including covering up some very minor body damage,
i am going to install
driving lights on my 1960 tr3A. I have a set of NOS Lucas driving and fog
lights in the smaller 5 1/2 inch size.
I have wiring and relays already installed, thanks to advice from Randall
some time back.
Luckily the lights werent on the car when the doofus in teh jacked up
pickup basked into my car ( but ever so slightly)
it would be a bit more cosmetically helpful to use 7" lights. Birthday is
here, so the 7" lights would make a good present  ;-)

Car is a ten footer, driven often and fast. Do not want to start
shipwrights disease project because the whole body would need to be redone.
Just want to drive, not get into body work at this time. Will save the
insurance check for the total resoration when I find a perfect body.

Any comments about which looks/fits/works better?

thanks!

Perry HAmmock
60 tr3a

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 16:55:40 2013
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References: <mailman.22.1366999204.13070.triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Anthony Rhodes <spamiam@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 18:49:19 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1367016560;
	bh=03s5arORu5WbCan1woNO0ZgqCtGi3+vYLqOIDXvQBOw=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry,

Well, the 7" looks a little large to me, but it is a matter of your personal
preference

I came very close to mounting a pair of 7" hella driving lights. As I was
sitting working on shaping bracket templates., I started working out my energy
budget. I have a stock 22A generator. I concluded that with all the stock
equipment running, I could not sustain the extra power demand of two 100 watt
driving lights!

I think that this is why they mounted one driving light and one fog light. And
they were less than 55 watts each, and only one would be on at a time. An
extra 40 watts is sustainable, but not 200, IMHO. So I switched out my
original Lucas headlights, and installed some H4's. I measured the originals
to draw about only 40 watts and they were pretty dim. I figure the pair of new
55/60W headlights max out my generator and they are quite bright. No need for
driving lights.

But for decoration, some Lucas flamethrower driving lights would look
perfect!

-Tony


> Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:00:01 -0400
> From: Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights
> Message-ID:
>
> for a number of reasons, including covering up some very minor body damage,
> i am going to install
> driving lights on my 1960 tr3A. I have a set of NOS Lucas driving and fog
> lights in the smaller 5 1/2 inch size.
> I have wiring and relays already installed, thanks to advice from Randall
> some time back.
> Luckily the lights werent on the car when the doofus in teh jacked up
> pickup basked into my car ( but ever so slightly)
> it would be a bit more cosmetically helpful to use 7" lights. Birthday is
> here, so the 7" lights would make a good present  ;-)
>
> Car is a ten footer, driven often and fast. Do not want to start
> shipwrights disease project because the whole body would need to be redone.
> Just want to drive, not get into body work at this time. Will save the
> insurance check for the total resoration when I find a perfect body.
>
> Any comments about which looks/fits/works better?
>
> thanks!
>
> Perry HAmmock

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 01:40:21 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 01:40:51 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:20.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/20.0 SeaMonkey/2.17.1
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] No ideas yet?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Somewhat surprised no responses to this:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=150


mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 01:55:41 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <517B8103.6050703@bradakis.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 02:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] No ideas yet?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am semi-awake, my mind is bouncing around a little bit, how about a pull 
thing to raise the dickey or rumble seat of a post war Triumph 2000?  That 
is what we call a WAG

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:40 AM
Subject: [TR] No ideas yet?


> Somewhat surprised no responses to this:
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=150
>
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 12:51:31 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 support vehicle troubles
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi all,
Hoping someone can help direct me to a user's group as my support vehicle (an
'88 Ford TBird) has failed aircon/heat 'blower' operation. A year ago I
replaced a failed TO-3 transistor located on the finned aluminum arm, inside
the air ducting, with the only TO-3 transistor Radio Shack sells - it worked
for 1 year!
Without the fan operating again I have no ventilation, aircon, or heating
action. The original TO-3 transistor (Motorola SJ5783) or equivalent, can not
be found on internet after at least 4 hours of searching and several calls and
queries ('maybe' I can order 200 of them!) so my next step is looking for a
TBird user's group to see what others might have done, or better yet, an
equivalent transistor.
Any leads or better ideas out there? Hot Summer is coming!
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 13:49:06 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:42:23 -0600
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Subject: [TR] Old TR6-TR4 top?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Anyone replace their convertible top and have the old one they'd like  
to get rid of?

I'd like an old 4A white one ideally or a big piece of one since I  
have an old white top I'm working from. Black or tan would work if I  
can get two of them.

I'm making a cover to go over the MK IV when towing it and will  
hopefully snap a couple pieces together to make a full cover from the  
front cowling to the rear deck with snaps on the car and maybe some  
"tags" at both ends that would be held by the closed boot lid and  
bonnet.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 18:07:27 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:00:34 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5DeBSJRRnpvk0fQI6m8B0uesFJrwAKK6OA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 support vehicle troubles
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> A 
> year ago I replaced a failed TO-3 transistor located on the 
> finned aluminum arm, inside the air ducting, with the only 
> TO-3 transistor Radio Shack sells - it worked for 1 year!

I found two TO-3 on their web site ... What was the part number of the RS
"almost" replacement?

The SJ series were OEM numbers; generally used to keep people from doing
what you're trying to do.

Sorry, no help on the Tbird group.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 22:27:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
I have a gear reduction starter that I had bought several years ago from TSI
automotive and am just now wireing it up. I would have written Ted with this
question but I am hoping I can get an answer yet this weekend.
Does anyone know if these starters need a external starter solenoid or is the
small one wire connector controlling a internal starter solenoid? I don't know
if I can run a battery cable directly to this starter or if I need a starter
relay?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 20:56:27 2013
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To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring
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I believe they all have an internal solenoid.

Here are some wiring options:

http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw360@mac.com>
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	<57DED8E7-610C-4754-B6E0-4867904F1C28@mac.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 23:00:11 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring
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Thanks Darrell!
Dave Connitt


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw360@mac.com>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring


> 
> I believe they all have an internal solenoid.
> 
> Here are some wiring options:
> 
> http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html
> 
> -Darrell
> 
> -- 
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 27 22:43:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 21:33:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5Du85VXWLpZMkUTyOJaC4ldV+sEAADMLMQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring
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> I believe they all have an internal solenoid.
> 
> Here are some wiring options:
> 
> http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html

FWIW, I went a different route than either diagram shows.  The solenoid
inside the starter draws a good deal of current, roughly 6 times as much as
the original, and I wasn't confident of the original switch's ability to
handle the extra current (and extra kick-back) on a regular basis.  I also
wanted to keep the original solenoid functional (the button on the back
comes in really handy from time to time); but it had lost part of it's smoke
when the original starter failed.

So, I used the original solenoid to switch power only to the new solenoid.
I moved all of the original wires from the top stud to the bottom stud
(making the wire to the starter hot all the time), and ran a new wire from
the top stud to the solenoid stud on the new starter.

Best of both worlds, IMO.  That was in 2000, and both the switch & the
solenoid are still working great (they got moved from the wrecked TR3A to my
current TR3 along with the starter).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 07:54:41 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:52:40 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
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Subject: [TR] Overheating Question
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Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the radiator.  I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting water in the oil.  Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water.  

Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 11:21:00 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the
car running.

I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of
sticking when the car is not running.
I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought
it might have been out of position.

I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering.

Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good.
Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it
hangs up.

I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Al

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 10:28:18 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:26:19 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Throttle shaft or bushings worn?  Maybe engine vacuum is pulling it into a
bind.

Does it close on its own when you shut down the engine?
On Apr 28, 2013 11:24 AM, "alan salvatore" <alansalvy@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the
> car running.
>
> I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of
> sticking when the car is not running.
> I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought
> it might have been out of position.
>
> I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering.
>
> Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good.
> Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it
> hangs up.
>
> I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Al
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

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	<4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:32:42 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Before you pull the head, remember a rarely driven car or a car driven on
only short trips will likely have moisture and condensation in the valve
cover. Ive pulled a few valve covers and found some to alot of yellow gunk
in there.

I make sure i get a good long drive in at least once a month. Helps my
sanity, too.

Chris

 On Apr 28, 2013 9:53 AM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

> Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the
> radiator.  I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting
> water in the oil.  Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water.
>
> Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 11:58:49 2013
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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:51:02 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the car sits for a while the oil and water will separate and it won't 
look white.  Check the level of the oil.  If it is higher than normal there 
is water in the sump.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 9:52 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Overheating Question

Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the 
radiator.  I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting 
water in the oil.  Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water.

Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner@verizon.net 

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Thanks for supporting my Support vehicle
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Thanks Michael and Randall,


My latest TR4 support vehicle ('88 TBird since '98) has good ventilation,
cooling and heating again.


Now I can get back to working on my first car bThanks for your support!


Regards,


Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 14:45:45 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <7D.D0.16585.376AC715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:29:12 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating Question
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If there is lots of water when you pull the valve cover, there is likely to
be lots in the sump, too.  But before you pull the head, check the aluminum
plug in the head:  I once had a similar problem after an engine rebuild and
it turned out the plug had disintegrated and was leaking (and I hadn't
replaced it).  It's a much quicker and cheaper fix than just about all of
the others causes.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 9:53 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Overheating Question

Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the
radiator.  I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting
water in the oil.  Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water.  

Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 14:46:16 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:41:28 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5EUGG8lv263oZ+QhSpCfWSzOX50A==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 frame
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Sorry to bomb the list, but if anyone knows of a good TR3 frame (no
significant rust, no damage, no botched repairs), please contact me
off-line.  The closer to Michigan, the better.

 

I bought two cars last year in the hope of restoring one nice example, but
both frames were shot.  Have a few offers from around the country, but
wanted to exhaust possibilities before committing.

 

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 15:31:00 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:26:29 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TRF TR 250 Steering column bushing kit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I am putting the TRF steering column bushing kit into my wife's TR 250 
and have come across a couple of questions, I am hoping someone can help 
me with.

The kit has 3 pieces of felt.  2 are about the same length 1 with holes 
1 without.  I know where those go.  There is another shorter thicker 
piece that I did not see as I was taking the steering column apart.    
Can anyone tell me where that shorter one goes?  Maybe it isn't used on 
the TR250.

The second question has to do with the turn signals.  The cam on the 
column to turn off the signals isn't centered.  I thought I would be 
able to loosen the clamp above the silent block to rotate the column to 
bring that cam back to where it is supposed to be.  But the column has a 
flat spot that the pinch bolt goes through. So that won't work.

 From the manual, it looks like all of the pinch bolts have an 
interference fit with the steering column.  So, do I have to adjust the 
steering somewhere else to get that cam centered?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
68 TR 250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 16:48:41 2013
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "alan salvatore" <alansalvy@gmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAAEehSY03q2ikq3MQDj+mtpzC-FZ5bxNwcLCZ9SCLRwp6FyVw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 18:41:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan, if you un-link the 2 carbs can you manually close the sticking carb 
while the engine is running? If so, does it close easily, or feel like it's 
scraping the throat ?
Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "alan salvatore" <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs


>I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the
> car running.
>
> I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of
> sticking when the car is not running.
> I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought
> it might have been out of position.
>
> I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering.
>
> Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good.
> Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it
> hangs up.
>
> I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Al
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 21:52:01 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 21:32:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I
bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number on
TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts in
the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else. 

    
Supposedly it goes to the TR3 hardtop.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/8687107753/in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/8687110161/in/photostream

    
Anyone know what this is and where it's used?
     TIA,

     Bill in
Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 22:25:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 21:23:28 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130328 Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/27/13 9:32 PM, William Brewer wrote:
>       Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I
> bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number on
> TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts in
> the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else.
Nothing like that in my hard top or top to body fixings

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 00:24:20 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 02:22:15 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5EoUYzVyuPoK28QbiAg3ydgQI8QA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] LED Dash Lamps in TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to Jim at Litezupp.com  I have switched the extremely weak dash
lamps in my TR3 to LEDs.

See photos at
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/slideshow/Dash%20Lamps (10 picture
slideshow)



The first image is the dash taken in time exposure for 6 seconds.  If you
look real close you can see the Tach.

The next few images show how I had to modify the center panel location to
accommodate the deeper LED lamps (about = longer).

The tach & speedo are direct fit.

The next to the last shows the Tach with LED installed and the rest
invisible.

Finally, the finished job.  NOTE: I broke one of the lamps (they are very
fragile  Jim is working on that) in the Tach (it was one of the center
panel lamps, but I moved it to the tach for ease of replacement.  Also, the
plastic lamp window on the fuel gauge (upper right) is very dirty.  Ill
need to clean it up before I say the job is completely done.



They are so much brighter, that I will probably create a dash panel bottom
to contain the reflection into the floor board area  Although, if I had a
radio, it would provide light to it.



I believe these lamps are the first positive ground dash lamps available for
the early british cars.  Kudos to Jim and LiteZupp for this mod to the
LEDs.





Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A  TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 00:39:52 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 02:31:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part
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HT1 is the kit that contains all of the hardware that fits a hardtop on a
TR3.   This piece does not look like any in my package that I purchased
about 3 years ago.   It does look familiar but I cannot place it.  

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 12:33 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part

     Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I
bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number
on TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts
in the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else. 

    
Supposedly it goes to the TR3 hardtop.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/8687107753/in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927@N08/8687110161/in/photostream

    
Anyone know what this is and where it's used?
     TIA,

     Bill in
Tehachapi

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 07:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Palmer <tr6driver@yahoo.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
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NFI, just like to see someone save it...
 
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/3754033750.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 09:22:17 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
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 Da*n, that's a steal. Too bad I'm on the wrong coast, or I'd have it in a
"New York minute"! :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Jamie Palmer <tr6driver@yahoo.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 10:02 am
Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego


NFI, just like to see someone save it...

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/3754033750.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 10:01:36 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:38:35 -0500
From: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] noises
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And, please, check all brake pads if the left front is worn. At the very 
least, both front brakes. You want them to ALL work as a team.

Pat

On 4/23/2013 11:01 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> John Summers wrote:
>> I think my left front brake is worn out. Is it a big deal to fix?
> If it just worn pads, no problem.  If the worn pads have chewed up the 
> rotor,
> more complicated.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 12:51:39 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:49:52 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
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Almost close enough...

mjb.

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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 13:18:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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i could take a cursory look if some one is really wanting it.
its about an
hour drive for me, so please don't send me if your not that interested. i have
plenty of honey-do's right now.
 
Frank 
Temecula CA

From: Mark J Bradakis
<mark@bradakis.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday,
April 29, 2013 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
Almost close enough...

mjb.

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:41:02 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Block color
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A few weeks back there was some discussion about non-black engine blocks 
from the factory.  The consensus was that some were, indeed, delivered in a 
color other than black.  However, I forgot what color.  Can someone remind me? 
 Thanks and sorry for the bandwidth.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:32:59 -0500
Thread-index: Ac5FG5n5uFRjaAzBQtG3titSYX1rJwAA4bfw
Subject: Re: [TR] Block color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red.
If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think
that it should be black.  

BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 3:41 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Block color

A few weeks back there was some discussion about non-black engine blocks
from the factory.  The consensus was that some were, indeed, delivered in a
color other than black.  However, I forgot what color.  Can someone remind
me? 
 Thanks and sorry for the bandwidth.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 16:23:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:12:10 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't have another triumph in the fold until I can find one that gets 37
miles to the gallon.......

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 16:56:41 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:57:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'ccsimonsen@gmail.com'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>,  'list Triumph'
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
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Triumph Bonneville?...

Mark
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: April-29-13 6:12 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego

I can't have another triumph in the fold until I can find one that gets 37
miles to the gallon.......

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 21:00:22 2013
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Good point.  But Appendix 1 (Modified Touring Class) states that the engine
may be from any model car in the series.  One could interpret this as being a
rebuild (AKA red) engine.  ;-)

Thanks




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>


There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red.
If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think
that it should be black.

BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black.

Bill

Bill Beecher

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 02:40:30 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 03:20:21 -0500
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe.  You can spend time arguing with the guys with clipboards.   Two hours everytime you show your car sounds like a waste of time.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave Massey" <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Block color
Date: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 21:46


 Good point.  But Appendix 1 (Modified Touring Class) states that the engine
may be from any model car in the series.  One could interpret this as being a
rebuild (AKA red) engine.  ;-)

Thanks




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>


There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red.
If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think
that it should be black.

BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black.

Bill

Bill Beecher

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 06:10:40 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Well, it's all for fun.  If it ain't fun, don't do it.

Dave

In a message dated 4/30/2013 3:20:24 AM Central Daylight Time, 
spook01@comcast.net writes: 
> Maybe.  You can spend time arguing with the guys with clipboards.   Two 
> hours everytime you show your car sounds like a waste of time.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 12:04:32 2013
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 18:54:46 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Block color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, Dave
 
I can't comment on block colours post 1972 for any car out of
Standard-Triumph but from 1946 until that date, they were (mainly) black.
Exceptions were on the small 4 cylinder which for a while were painted in
gold. This was the famous Gold Star engine that appeared in about 1957 on the
Standard Eight and Ten saloons. Gold continued for a while on the valve covers
of the same engine until the company was eventually able to get out from under
the paint contract it had signed with Pinchin and Johnson for later models of
the Ferguson tractor which was sold in Grey with a gold engine block and
skidded unit. The company was obliged to run with the contract for some years
after the tractor business was sold to Massey Harris. All that to one side,
factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European dealer
network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a 'yucky'
blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. I greatly
 doubt any of this engines ever got to your side of the pond as their release
was entirely dependent on good usable core units being available to rebuild.
AFAIK, Stag and Slant 4 engines were all black with silver valve/cam covers.
Jonmac    

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 12:49:42 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 14:34:48 -0400 (EDT)
To: flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Block color
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Thanks for the authoritative response.  I will archive it properly.

Cheers.

Dave

In a message dated 4/30/2013 12:54:47 PM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> I can't comment on block colours post 1972 for any car out of 
> Standard-Triumph but from 1946 until that date, they were (mainly) black. Exceptions 
> were on the small 4 cylinder which for a while were painted in gold. This 
> was the famous Gold Star engine that appeared in about 1957 on the Standard 
> Eight and Ten saloons. Gold continued for a while on the valve covers of the 
> same engine until the company was eventually able to get out from under 
> the paint contract it had signed with Pinchin and Johnson for later models of 
> the Ferguson tractor which was sold in Grey with a gold engine block and 
> skidded unit. The company was obliged to run with the contract for some 
> years after the tractor business was sold to Massey Harris. All that to one 
> side, factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European 
> dealer network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a 
> 'yucky' blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. I greatly doubt 
> any of this engines ever got to your side of the pond as their release was 
> entirely dependent on good usable core units being available to rebuild. 
> AFAIK, Stag and Slant 4 engines were all black with silver valve/cam covers.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 13:35:34 2013
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:21:21 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Block color
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---- John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: 
> All that to one side,
> factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European dealer
> network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a 'yucky'
> blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. 

That's interesting.  TS13571L came to me with the head and block painted a yucky blue.  Similar to Ford blue, but not quite the same (more towards light gray than the Ford color).  I figured it was from the previous owner, but maybe ...

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi@roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 13:19:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5F4AQer//nMQwhT5uRAi4Xw5/L3Q==
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Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I actually stumbled across this car when I visited the dealership that has
it. I went in looking at all the other great cars they have, and the sales
person (can't recall his name) asked if I like Triumphs. "Of course!" was my
answer. He took me to look at this car, and I was not very impressed. First
off, it's a Triumph 2000, a 4 door sedan family car. On top of that, the
floors were rusted through, along with a few spots on the top of the bonnet.
The interior is shot too. He said that he just got the car running, but I
didn't witness it. It did look complete though, so if you were to take on a
restoration of this sort, you'd have a pretty good basis to start with from
a parts standpoint. But parts is about what I thought it was worth, IMHO.

Brian

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