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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 06:42:49 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Unfortunately, most of my triumphs I have are a bit modified or unknown
mods.  Street Cam, different distributor, Carbs with or without vacuum
advance. - so I've found that 4 degrees is helpful to get them at least
started.

After that, I turn the distributor to fastest Idle, snug it down, then I'll
shut it off and restart to make sure it turns over easy (wrong timing can
make the starter work quite hard). Then I drive.  i'll pull over and back
it off a bit if it pings.

Your results may vary - but I've been doing it this way since my uncle
taught me - and I've not burned up a piston yet...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 05:55:55 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "list Triumph"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>
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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 07:17:16 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

ol' timer tricks....
using a vacuum gauge, set your advance for the maximum possible manifold 
vacuum, while setting/maintaining the proper idle rpm.
with or without vacuum adv/retard connected means nothing.doing it this way.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2013 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing advance


> Unfortunately, most of my triumphs I have are a bit modified or unknown
> mods.  Street Cam, different distributor, Carbs with or without vacuum
> advance. - so I've found that 4 degrees is helpful to get them at least
> started.
>
> After that, I turn the distributor to fastest Idle, snug it down, then 
> I'll
> shut it off and restart to make sure it turns over easy (wrong timing can
> make the starter work quite hard). Then I drive.  i'll pull over and back
> it off a bit if it pings.
>
> Your results may vary - but I've been doing it this way since my uncle
> taught me - and I've not burned up a piston yet...
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 07:21:12 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com><000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 09:10:27 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQIFEnueKnMC/o7nR5gLdz7IrnLIygJfDoAiAOr+1pwBlaaG5piMbxPw
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Install
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This might be common knowledge but it is worth repeating... 

RE: Blocks -  16" (two blocks) should be max and ample room for getting
underneath.  the half block size will work so you only have an 8" column to
deal with.  For strength place them so that the open ends are vertical.
BUT - Also insert good solid jack stands under the end you are working on.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:58 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Install

I didn't on the TR3, just the shifter.  Clearance gets close when you hit
the point of straightening out the unit for final touchdown, this is why I
try to raise the car 5"-10" on blocks(please be sure they are sound).

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:54 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Install

Thanks for the responses.  If installing as a combined unit did you need to
take the top cover off the tranny as the manual explains? I assume for
clearance.
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4
75 TR6
Ocala, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Engine Install

Jim - I installed an engine/transmission combination into our TR6 using a
tractor loader as the hoist. I'm not saying I would recommend it to others,
but that's what we had at the time. Definitely a little hairy when
attempting to achieve the proper angle, etc., but it worked for us. I think
I would prefer working with the transmission mounting block rather than
guiding the input shaft to the pilot bushing, etc. Also, you have a lot more
leverage when grabbing onto the transmission tail as opposed to the rear of
the engine block. Good luck.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 10:11:53 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <dave@ranteer.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 11:57:19 -0400
Thread-index: AQLUl5qYxSVLGbSftMEtb3rvsys2a5cUkWBg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You might try a different tach cable.  Could be binding.  In a pinch you
could temporarily use the speedo cable - same fittings - to test it,  If it
still screams at you - then in the instrument itself.

Unless to you switch to a TR4 setup (electric) it is probably beyond most
DIYs ability.   

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave@ranteer.com
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 4:30 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage

Late tr3.  Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
Looks like all the gages except tach and temp are finally working.   Tach
screams; its probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.   Other than confirming
its
lack of response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything else I
can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 10:42:02 2013
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Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2013 09:35:02 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 6/1/13 3:42 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> Unfortunately, most of my triumphs I have are a bit modified or unknown
> mods.  Street Cam, different distributor, Carbs with or without vacuum
> advance. - so I've found that 4 degrees is helpful to get them at least
> started.
With a modified engine that has a cam you need more initial advance than 
stock.  If you have a worn distributor or timing chain you will need 
more initial advance.

A good rule of thumb is that our engines do well with about 32-34 
degrees total advance.  That's initial advance plus vacuum advance plus 
mechanical advance.  If your vacuum or mechanical advance is not working 
properly you may find yourself setting in a lot more initial advance 
just to get the engine to run OK at driving RPMs. Never hurts to check 
your distributor over to make sure it along with all its advances are in 
spec.

But if you have a cam in the engine figure you will probably want about 
8 degrees initial advance.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 14:34:16 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <isoa@googlegroups.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 15:21:35 -0500
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: Ac5fBZz74t0ym1EPS5eADj8VE4ZEMQ==
Subject: [TR] Rec GT6 near Aurora, IL
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Saw a nice looking red GT6 at the junction of Hwy 30 and Hwy 34 this
afternoon.  Took off in a small cloud of blue smoke after idling at the
lights.  Does anybody out there claim it?  It looked very nice .

 

Mike

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 18:28:39 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Joe Alexander'" <n197tr4@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <A18B023E-2C07-451D-980D-A569E35CA108@cs.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 17:22:32 -0700
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Thread-Index: Ac5eyonh0cHMtswrTDuf/3fXASv27AAWW6uA
Subject: Re: [TR] Leaks
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Joe,
You're right, it was frustrating. I was almost ready to pull the engine a
fourth time. A freakin $2 part was the solution. Go figure.
I played golf this morning (shot 73) and drove the car 25 miles through the
back country afterwards in 90 deg heat. No leaks. Kas was right (duh).
Hope there's no tornado's in your neck of the woods. Be safe.
Johnnie
> 
> Johnnie,
> 
> I am so pleased you found the solution to your TR. I know how hard you
> have worked on this.
> 
> I cringe when they leak after installing the new seal.
> 
> You may have provided a valuable piece of information to a lot of long
> suffering TR guys.
> 
> Congratulations.
> 
> As Kas says, the wet sleeve engine can't get enough ventilation.
> 
> Joe A

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  1 20:36:25 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 21:27:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] pinion oil seal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, all.

Ibm being brave here and venturing into new territory.

a recently acquired tr3b is leaking oil out of the bfrontb or forward side
of the diffy.

according to the moss parts book (and with a little help from a friend), I
need a new oil seal.

that would be mossmotors part 520-090, #26 on this diagram:
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36462&SortOrder
=540

my question, since I have never done this before, is do I need/should I
replace anything else?  and any hints/caveats would be helpful.  I do have the
shop manual.

thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 01:44:17 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <036EFD7B1A0E4CD79D37DCEF32F7A11B@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 00:31:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5fOWMOlGSqxvTTTvyqzANz38pybAAKB76w
Subject: Re: [TR] pinion oil seal
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> my question, since I have never done this before, is do I need/should I
> replace anything else?  and any hints/caveats would be helpful. 

Use some fine abrasive cloth to clean up the surface of the flange where the
seal rides, then examine it carefully.  If there is a dark line that you
cannot polish away, consider replacing the flange or installing a
SpeediSleeve.  Otherwise the new seal may leak just as badly as the old one.

Grease the seal & flange before installation.

Good time to inspect the U-joint.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 02:00:53 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 00:55:49 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5ePahN/wbXOoI6SnWcqb4HVLfAfgBJ2zRg
Subject: Re: [TR] SPAM:  Tr3 temp gage
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> can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?

If your goal is just to drive the car and you don't want to spend the money
to have the original refurbished; it is quite possible to use a cheap
aftermarket gauge.  I ran for quite a few years with a "Sunpro" mechanical
gauge that I believe can still be found for under $30 with a little hunting
around.  (Amazon has it listed for $25)
http://goo.gl/5RbJz

It fits the original holes; the only mod is to hook the lead for the lamp
into the dash light circuit.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2013 11:27:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 72 tr6 tobe question
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 13:43:11 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 15:38:11 -0400
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: Ac5fyAiidR8UejseSkas3YSKlnY4bQ==
Subject: [TR] TR4 Throw Out Bearing Sleeve
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This comes under the topic of - I can't find my parts because I packed up
and moved to another town.  I have a used clutch throw out bearing sleeve
with Made in England rhp bearing, but can't determine if this is the one
that I took off the TR4 when I dissembled.  TRF lists separate part numbers
between TR4 and TR4A.  Is there an easy way to verify if this is a TR4
sleeve as it might be used one from my TR6.  Trying to save buying a TR4 one
from TRF.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 17:22:31 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR List " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2013 19:17:47 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid - TR3 capacity
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Before I go out and get the brake fluid - what is the TR3A capacity fully
bled?    Don't particularly want to get too much - but definitely don't want
to not get enough..

  Decided to go the DOT 5 route even though I have a few containers of the
Girling DOT3.  (anyone needing some? - email me and we can work something
out)

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 17:37:31 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid - TR3 capacity
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl, when I did my conversion, I bought a quart and a pint.  I think I used 
most of the quart and had  the pint to carry along on the road....
hope this helps
Tom

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl-TR
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 7:17 PM
To: TR List
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid - TR3 capacity

Before I go out and get the brake fluid - what is the TR3A capacity fully
bled?    Don't particularly want to get too much - but definitely don't want
to not get enough..

  Decided to go the DOT 5 route even though I have a few containers of the
Girling DOT3.  (anyone needing some? - email me and we can work something
out)



Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

<http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 20:08:22 2013
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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 02:03:48 +0000 (UTC)
From: suhringtr36@comcast.net
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting
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I recall Fred Thomas sharing with the list many years ago that most jet commecting rod assemblies for the H6 SU carbs are not installed properly.  What Fred explained is that the Fork end that connects to the front carb is mistankingly installed to the jet lever by putting it between the two sides of the fork. Fred insisted that the fork goes on the outer side of the lever.  Does anyone recall this and do you agree that this is the correct set up?  I had a local British Car shop tune up my carbs and they changed this set up and put the lever in the center of the fork.  My choke is not working properly so I am goiong to readjust it and wanted to check before I changed it back to the outside set up.  When you read the manuals, there is no mention of how to install the rod assembly. TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechaicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 21:28:42 2013
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Subject: [TR] So it goes.  Hopefully goes away.
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Sigh.


http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=154


mjb.

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1412906923.2800089.1370224545235.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1651106170.2800323.1370225028617.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 22:54:34 -0500
Thread-index: Ac5f/rcvvB0xxSCgT/+hHQWR1//EfwADwmBg
Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have never done it 'Fred's' way, never had a problem.  It just doesn't
make sense to put sideways pressure on that jet.  And why just the front
jet?
Bill  

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
suhringtr36@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 9:04 PM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting

I recall Fred Thomas sharing with the list many years ago that most jet
commecting rod assemblies for the H6 SU carbs are not installed properly.
What Fred explained is that the Fork end that connects to the front carb is
mistankingly installed to the jet lever by putting it between the two sides
of the fork. Fred insisted that the fork goes on the outer side of the
lever.  Does anyone recall this and do you agree that this is the correct
set up?  I had a local British Car shop tune up my carbs and they changed
this set up and put the lever in the center of the fork.  My choke is not
working properly so I am goiong to readjust it and wanted to check before I
changed it back to the outside set up.  When you read the manuals, there is
no mention of how to install the rod assembly. TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechaicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 22:13:52 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1412906923.2800089.1370224545235.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1651106170.2800323.1370225028617.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2013 21:05:17 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5f/q4+OHuDUv97SfOYBbjs8bBDfQADi5Ag
Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I do remember Fred saying that; tho in all honesty I don't recall if he told
me before I told him <g>

If you check Practical Hints, I believe there is a photo in there that shows
the unusual arrangement at the front.  I thought I had an enhanced copy of
that photo posted on Photobucket, but I can't seem to find it (and it's not
on this computer).

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  2 23:46:44 2013
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From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 17:37:22 +1200
Subject: [TR] :J: Type overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi! I have overdrives for sale.Need to be checked.You can order the correct 
speedo gears from UK.  Units have main shaft, adaptor plates as fitted to 
Triumphs 2000/2500.
Thanks

Ashley  {NZ}

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 05:19:55 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "'TR List '" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAB3WqhcPUTpMv9z+tDK7bNsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 04:14:34 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5f5zjL1xwFjDQvThetNAZ5FCXBCgAYupog
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid - TR3 capacity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

-- Randall
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 4:18 PM
> To: TR List
> Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid - TR3 capacity
> 
> Before I go out and get the brake fluid - what is the TR3A capacity fully
> bled?

Depends on how much trouble you have getting it bled.  I used less than a
quart to recommission TS13571L.

>   Decided to go the DOT 5 route even though I have a few containers of the
> Girling DOT3.  (anyone needing some? - email me and we can work something
> out)

I'm sure you know this, but JIC: DOT 3 starts to get old the moment you open
the lid on the can.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 05:29:57 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <005501ce5fc8$b8adf830$2a09e890$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 04:25:20 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5fyAiidR8UejseSkas3YSKlnY4bQAhDPIg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Throw Out Bearing Sleeve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Is there an easy way to verify if this is a TR4
> sleeve as it might be used one from my TR6.  

Which bearing is installed?  If it has the curved face used on TR4A-TR6,
then most likely you have a sleeve for TR4A-TR6.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 05:44:20 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <005501ce5fc8$b8adf830$2a09e890$@gmail.com>
	<A6C3B6F0C8F74ABA81F09BBF2D19D856@Meislaptop>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 07:39:30 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Throw Out Bearing Sleeve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It does have a curved face and judging by measurements other gave me, this
is a TR4a-6 sleeve. Thanks, Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 7:25 AM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 Throw Out Bearing Sleeve

> Is there an easy way to verify if this is a TR4 sleeve as it might be 
> used one from my TR6.

Which bearing is installed?  If it has the curved face used on TR4A-TR6,
then most likely you have a sleeve for TR4A-TR6.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 06:04:56 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 08:00:15 -0400 (EDT)
To: mark@bradakis.com, Triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1370260815;
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Subject: Re: [TR] So it goes.  Hopefully goes away.
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In a message dated 6/2/2013 10:23:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark@bradakis.com writes: 
> Sigh.
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=154
> 
> 
> mjb.
> 

Sniff.  I felt the same way when I cut up my wrecked TR8 shell.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 12:33:21 2013
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From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
To: <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1412906923.2800089.1370224545235.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1651106170.2800323.1370225028617.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 14:28:36 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHIAcd9GgdXxXtrQ0OXzyGWtiSV1JkxDKEQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Fred was correct.  It is offset.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
suhringtr36@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2013 10:04 PM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting

I recall Fred Thomas sharing with the list many years ago that most jet
commecting rod assemblies for the H6 SU carbs are not installed properly.
What Fred explained is that the Fork end that connects to the front carb is
mistankingly installed to the jet lever by putting it between the two sides
of the fork. Fred insisted that the fork goes on the outer side of the
lever.  Does anyone recall this and do you agree that this is the correct
set up?  I had a local British Car shop tune up my carbs and they changed
this set up and put the lever in the center of the fork.  My choke is not
working properly so I am goiong to readjust it and wanted to check before I
changed it back to the outside set up.  When you read the manuals, there is
no mention of how to install the rod assembly. TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechaicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 13:51:33 2013
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 15:47:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've found some significant (1/8") play in a lower trunnion mount on my 72
TR6. It really looks like just the bushings that have totally compressed
despite having very few miles on them since installation 15 years ago. Of
course, this part takes the full weight of the corner, driving or not.

Memory says that I can support the car on a jackstand put under the shock
absorber and then just remove the big bolt joining the trunnion and the lower
table/wisbones. I.e. compress the spring by using the car's own weight to do
so. Is this correct? I have no desire to catch a spring or stub axle in the
nose.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 14:51:07 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 16:44:35 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
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As long as you leave the shock connected and the inner pivots connected the 
spring is fully contained and will not go anywhere.  No need to support the 
spring pan although that may be the preferred method of supporting the car.

Cheers

Dave

In a message dated 6/3/2013 2:46:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper@indiefilmnet.com writes: 
> I've found some significant (1/8") play in a lower trunnion mount on my 
> 72
> TR6. It really looks like just the bushings that have totally compressed
> despite having very few miles on them since installation 15 years ago. Of
> course, this part takes the full weight of the corner, driving or not.
> 
> Memory says that I can support the car on a jackstand put under the shock
> absorber and then just remove the big bolt joining the trunnion and the 
> lower
> table/wisbones. I.e. compress the spring by using the car's own weight to 
> do
> so. Is this correct? I have no desire to catch a spring or stub axle in 
> the
> nose.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 16:57:16 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 door glass removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

Doing a frame off on my TR4A.  Working on doors but can't get the glass out.
Followed workshop manual.  Window is completely free and the weather strip has
been removed.  Can't get the channels on the bottom of the window through the
top of the window opening.  There is quite a bit of resistance at that point.
Am afraid to try forcing the the rest of the way out.  Seems like it ought to
be simple but I haven't broken the code yet.  Would appreciate hearing from
anyone who has done it.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 17:10:08 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F6BC3C74-11BA-4E91-A56D-96033D380EA3@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 19:00:25 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 door glass removal
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It's a while since I did it, but don't they come out through the door, not
the window opening?

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2013 5:57 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 door glass removal

Hi List,

Doing a frame off on my TR4A.  Working on doors but can't get the glass out.
Followed workshop manual.  Window is completely free and the weather strip
has been removed.  Can't get the channels on the bottom of the window
through the top of the window opening.  There is quite a bit of resistance
at that point.
Am afraid to try forcing the the rest of the way out.  Seems like it ought
to be simple but I haven't broken the code yet.  Would appreciate hearing
from anyone who has done it.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 21:03:31 2013
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <26da1d43.1ce6093.1f796a0d.428b@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 19:57:39 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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You can do that, you might even get away with it.  Remember, however, that 
springs are alive and have a malevolent personality.  They will ALWAYS try 
to get you.   Protect yourself.

Skip Gurnee (who still has his nose)
'64 TR4, '65 TR4A, 70TVR, et al.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark Hooper

I've found some significant (1/8") play in a lower trunnion mount on my 72
TR6. It really looks like just the bushings that have totally compressed
despite having very few miles on them since installation 15 years ago. Of
course, this part takes the full weight of the corner, driving or not.

Memory says that I can support the car on a jackstand put under the shock
absorber and then just remove the big bolt joining the trunnion and the 
lower
table/wisbones. I.e. compress the spring by using the car's own weight to do
so. Is this correct? I have no desire to catch a spring or stub axle in the
nose.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun  3 21:40:14 2013
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Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 22:22:10 -0500
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From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: [TR] Bristol 403
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I have a client who knows I'm into cars that is looking at a 1953 
Bristol 403.  Cool looking car.  Anyone on the list know anything 
about Bristols or know of internet / e-mail resources for them?

Thanks, Tony Drews

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2013 22:39:44 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have always put the car up with jackstands under the frame in front, then 
used a floor jack, the saddle of which fits snuggly in the spring pan, to 
take just a little tension off the front suspension before I start to remove 
the parts.  Please note that when you do it this way the spring is under 
still under compression, but it will be towards the end of its reach, so 
hopefully not sitting there with life threatening potential energy still 
contained in the spring.  Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 01:43:30 -0400
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <40414daa.1ce60d7.2137b596.922@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, threatening or not, I took the advice of the list and it came out well 
enough. 


I think I probably need a new lower arm on the spring table. It seems that 
the hole in the end of the arm (the part that has 2 "top hats" inserted is 
rather worn/rusty. I'm assuming it should be quite smooth inside. Instead 
it's rusty and one of the top hats an be moved about 1/16". Also, can the 
bolt passing through the trunnion (the horizontal one) be wiggled? Mine can 
wiggle about 1/8". It can't really move laterally, but it seems to be a bit 
opened at the sides and lets the bolt "wiggle". If it is supposed to be 
perfectly held in place (other than sliding longitudinally) then I'm also on 
the hook for a new lower trunnion. 


If I bolt the hole lot together tightly then it probably won't shake around, 
but it's not exactly wonderfully new. I guess all the years of shimmying 
rims, worked on things a fair bit...


Mark

1972 TR6



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2013 23:46:06 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement


I have always put the car up with jackstands under the frame in front, then
used a floor jack, the saddle of which fits snuggly in the spring pan, to
take just a little tension off the front suspension before I start to remove
the parts.  Please note that when you do it this way the spring is under
still under compression, but it will be towards the end of its reach, so
hopefully not sitting there with life threatening potential energy still
contained in the spring.  Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 02:00:17 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
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References: <F6BC3C74-11BA-4E91-A56D-96033D380EA3@sbcglobal.net>
	<005a01ce60ae$23a699e0$6af3cda0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 02:54:00 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 door glass removal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've taken the window out, now if I can remember exactly how...actually I 
think it was broken, and the winder mechanism came through the side of the 
door, then I cleaned out the glass from the mechanism, put it back in, then 
inserted the new glass.  I think you may have to pull the glass from the 
winder mechanism while still in the door to get it all removed, but not 
absolutely sure.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <20130604033950.B3FC744245@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:15:57 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Bristol 403
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tony
 
Company website http://www.bristolcars.co.uk/
Bristol Owners Club
https://boc.net/index.php
Owners and enthusiasts Forum www.bristolcars.info/
Jonmac
 

>________________________________
> From: Tony Drews
<tony@tonydrews.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Tuesday, 4 June
2013, 4:22
>Subject: [TR] Bristol 403
>  
>
>I have a client who knows I'm
into cars that is looking at a 1953 
>Bristol 403.  Cool looking car.  Anyone
on the list know anything 
>about Bristols or know of internet / e-mail
resources for them?
>
>Thanks, Tony Drews
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 05:46:00 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 07:39:36 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 bushing replacement
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It may be the arm or it may be the inserts.  The latter would be a much 
easier fix.  And trunions are readily available from the usual suppliers, just 
be sure to get the one for that side.  The threads are different.  And the 
castor angle is built into the trunion.

Dave

In a message dated 6/4/2013 12:50:18 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper@indiefilmnet.com writes: 
> Well, threatening or not, I took the advice of the list and it came out 
> well 
> enough. 
> 
> 
> I think I probably need a new lower arm on the spring table. It seems that 
> 
> the hole in the end of the arm (the part that has 2 "top hats" inserted is 
> 
> rather worn/rusty. I'm assuming it should be quite smooth inside. Instead 
> it's rusty and one of the top hats an be moved about 1/16". Also, can the 
> bolt passing through the trunnion (the horizontal one) be wiggled? Mine 
> can 
> wiggle about 1/8". It can't really move laterally, but it seems to be a 
> bit 
> opened at the sides and lets the bolt "wiggle". If it is supposed to be 
> perfectly held in place (other than sliding longitudinally) then I'm also 
> on 
> the hook for a new lower trunnion. 
> 
> 
> If I bolt the hole lot together tightly then it probably won't shake 
> around, 
> but it's not exactly wonderfully new. I guess all the years of shimmying 
> rims, worked on things a fair bit...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:11:04 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5hGJlW51VDJ1rRT02FaCSZLN7yBQAEyYwA
Subject: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,
Forwarding a link supplied to me by Jim Ray of the Texas Triumph Register,
official photoghrpher for VTR2012, of the concours event on the pier in
Galveston.  Download the file from this link, then click on the VTR logo to
watch on your PC.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41727767/VTR%20Vintage%20Consourse%20201
2%20-%20Mstr.exe 

 

Shared with permission,

Bill

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 08:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Reduction Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am thinking about upgrading my post TS 60,000 TR3A starter to a modern
gear reduction starter. I am hoping that it will help make the car easier to
start on cold mornings.
     I am looking at two of them on Ebay. One is from
Britishperformanceparts. It is $44 more expensive than the other. I tend to
like the guys ad. It could state more about what kind of starter it is. I
assume that it started as a Nippon Denso.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230620025024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649
 
     The other guy (Alterstart) states that his is a Nippon
Denso, but states that it fits all of the tractor engined TR's including the
TR2. We all know what happens when you put a later starter on an earlier
starter gear. This raises my suspicions on whether this guy can be trusted.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230620025024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649
 
     Any suggestions? Are there other sources that are
recommended?
     TIA,
 
     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 08:15:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, 'Triumph Mail List'
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

im a little concerned at opening .exe files
any one been here yet?
 
 

From:
"wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'Triumph Mail List'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 7:11 AM
Subject: [TR]
FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures


Hello List,
Forwarding a link supplied to me
by Jim Ray of the Texas Triumph Register,
official photoghrpher for VTR2012,
of the concours event on the pier in
Galveston.  Download the file from this
link, then click on the VTR logo to
watch on your PC.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41727767/VTR%20Vintage%20Consourse%20201
2%20-%20Mstr.exe 



Shared with permission,

Bill

[demime 1.01d removed an
attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 09:55:42 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 11:50:52 -0400
References: <mailman.4562.1370355333.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 door glass removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Both the outer rubber seal and the inner fuzzy weather strip have to  
be removed. The window has to be disconnected from the winder, two  
pivots at the bottom of the glass and I believe that the glass  
channels need to be unbolted, especially at the top so that they can  
be pushed away from the glass (not entirely sure about this).

Allen
On Jun 4, 2013, at 10:15 AM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Doing a frame off on my TR4A.  Working on doors but can't get the  
> glass out.
> Followed workshop manual.  Window is completely free and the weather  
> strip
> has been removed.  Can't get the channels on the bottom of the window
> through the top of the window opening.  There is quite a bit of  
> resistance
> at that point.
> Am afraid to try forcing the the rest of the way out.  Seems like it  
> ought
> to be simple but I haven't broken the code yet.  Would appreciate  
> hearing
> from anyone who has done it.
>
> John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:53:23 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, "'Triumph Mail List'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <A88C3715A1C548C99D2C36C8D4E74ACF@bboffice>
	<1370358914.85602.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 11:46:15 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5hNlFGJ8eNUSPrQ9OWU+UC5HLPewAC/aBQ
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I downloaded it, scanned it and ran it twice, not a peep from my security
software.  He uses an application called ProShow from Photodex.Com.
Bill

  _____  

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 10:15 AM
To: wbeech@flash.net; 'Triumph Mail List'
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures


im a little concerned at opening .exe files
any one been here yet?
 
 

From: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'Triumph Mail List' <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 7:11 AM
Subject: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures


Hello List,
Forwarding a link supplied to me by Jim Ray of the Texas Triumph Register,
official photoghrpher for VTR2012, of the concours event on the pier in
Galveston.  Download the file from this link, then click on the VTR logo to
watch on your PC.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41727767/VTR%20Vintage%20Consourse%20201
2%20-%20Mstr.exe 



Shared with permission,

Bill

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
image001.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 10:55:24 2013
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	Jun 2013 16:49:02 +0000
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1370358647.20558.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:48:58 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5hNk7jNoNbc8DTSZ+4Q2NaXdGqgQADLWIg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Reduction Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll suggest Ted Schumacher.  He charges a bit more, but will definitely
stand behind the product.  And he won't try to sell you a rebuilt starter as
new.  Supposedly he also makes sure the wires inside the solenoid are
secured so they cannot break from vibration.  Mostly a racing feature, but
can't hurt on the street.

And Ted understands quite well the difference between early & late
flywheels.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 11:09:41 2013
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 09:57:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, 'Triumph Mail List'
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks Bill
 
 

From: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: 'Frank
Fisher' <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; 'Triumph Mail List' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston
Pictures



I downloaded it, scanned it and ran it twice, not a peep from my
security software.  He uses an application called ProShow from Photodex.Com.
Bill

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 04,
2013 10:15 AM
To: wbeech@flash.net; 'Triumph Mail List'
Subject: Re: [TR] FW:
VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures


im a little concerned at opening .exe files
any
one been here yet?
 
 

From: "wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To:
'Triumph Mail List' <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2013
7:11 AM
Subject: [TR] FW: VTR 2012 Galveston Pictures


Hello List,
Forwarding
a link supplied to me by Jim Ray of the Texas Triumph Register,
official
photoghrpher for VTR2012, of the concours event on the pier in
Galveston. 
Download the file from this link, then click on the VTR logo to
watch on your
PC.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41727767/VTR%20Vintage%20Consourse%20201
2%20-%20Mstr.exe 



Shared with permission,

Bill

[demime 1.01d removed an
attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 12:27:11 2013
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 14:22:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] TR6 suspension adjustment question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, last question for a bit, I promise...

I took my TR6 to inspection yesterday, where it passed first time. Phew!

However, the inspector did note that the right front wheel was able to move
about 1/8" relative to the car due to slop in the lower A-arm/trunnion joint.
I can't say I was shocked since, when driving down the highway, I felt the car
to be driving like a fish swims compared to my memory of what should be.
Wiggling the steering wheel, I actually thought I had forgotten to tighten the
wheel nuts.

The inspector thought things might just be too loose. I wasn't so sure, but
not about to disqualify my car by opening my big mouth and disagreeing.
However, on disassembly, I found the castellated nut on the big cross bolt was
not even finger tight.

I had thought it was the nylon top hat bushings, but having bought some new
ones, they look about the same as the parts I put in 20 years ago when
starting the re-build (so long it's been!) I do see there is some wear in the
trunnion bore and A-arm ends, but not too dreadful, so I will conserve my
little stock of pennies and just clean, lube and tighten up properly until the
end of the season.

I think part of the problem is that I recall following the procedure which
left things quite loose. Now that I look at the setup, it seems clear that the
bolt should be quite tight to hold the trunnion, spacers and arms rigid at 90
degrees relative to each other while still permitting the arm ends to turn the
nylon top hats on the spacers. But, that tightness is at variance with some of
the documentation.

As noted in the forum link below, this is not a new issue:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?79394-TR6-Trunnion-Lower-A-
Arm-Bolt-Torque-or-End-Float

I too possess a Haynes manual (complete with various errors) so now suspect my
problems come from worshipping at the wrong alter of mechanical purity.
(Perhaps next I must buy new Baal joints...)

So, how tight should I be setting the cross bolt on the suspension?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 14:32:37 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1370358647.20558.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 16:23:45 -0400
Thread-Index: AQDPdejfBwdJSGLuMVal5YU7BFeSW5sj1Gcw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Reduction Starters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We sourced one for out TR6 from Gustafson Specialty. It has worked great.
Not sure if they sell directly but I think they were happy to sell to a
local shop. They advertise in all major LBC magazines. I noticed on their
website that they address that very issue of how can one starter fit many
engines - they don't. What does TRF, Moss and VB offer?

www.gustafsonspecialty.com 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 11:11 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Reduction Starters

     I am thinking about upgrading my post TS 60,000 TR3A starter to a
modern gear reduction starter. I am hoping that it will help make the car
easier to start on cold mornings.
     I am looking at two of them on Ebay. One is from
Britishperformanceparts. It is $44 more expensive than the other. I tend to
like the guys ad. It could state more about what kind of starter it is. I
assume that it started as a Nippon Denso.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230620025024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m
1423.l2649
 
     The other guy (Alterstart) states that his is a Nippon Denso, but
states that it fits all of the tractor engined TR's including the TR2. We
all know what happens when you put a later starter on an earlier starter
gear. This raises my suspicions on whether this guy can be trusted.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230620025024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.
m
1423.l2649
 
     Any suggestions? Are there other sources that are recommended?
     TIA,
 
     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 16:20:56 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 17:06:12 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Balancing Carbs Oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings All,

I've recently found myself with some free time, and am looking into those low
priority items on my punch list.
First up is trying to get my engine to purr, as I've always had a rough idle,
with the RPM vacillating over a range of roughly 125, but smooths out while
driving.

I believe the issue might be indicated by something odd with my carbs (SU
HS6), which I had rebuilt by Paltech.
Here's the scenario..

I am using a Uni-Syn tool to balance the air flow (main idle).
The weird thing is that I achieve balance with the front carb's screw not
touching at all (therefore the throttle is not opened at all), and the rear
carb's screw is engaged (thus opening the throttle).
If this is correct, it means I am getting air flow balance from one carb
completely closed, and the other partially opened, which should not happen.

I'm planning on checking for a vacuum leak, and hoping I find one.
Is there anything else I could look for?

Maybe the throttle in the front carb is NOT closing all the way, even though
the idle screw is not engaged?
Maybe the cylinders aren't creating an equal amount of vacuum?

Thanks in advance!!



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 17:24:34 2013
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To: "triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2013 18:14:59 -0500
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Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fwd=3A_Message_from_The_Vintage_Racer?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

FYI

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Forwarded message -----
From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4@cs.com>
To: "ray" <spook01@comcast.net>
Subject: Message from The Vintage Racer
Date: Tue, Jun 4, 2013 5:31 pm


We did one production run of 10# steel flywheels a few years ago. Have elected not to spend the time to market them.

Thanks for the inquiry.

Joe Alexander

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2013, at 10:28 PM, ray <ARE@the-vintage-racer.com> wrote:

> From:    ray
> Email:    spook01@comcast.net
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Do you offer a lighter steel flywheel for the TR4 (bolt on starter ring)
> drilled for a TR6 pressure plate?  Thanks for your help.
> Ray 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Office Use Only:    
> From:    ray
> Email:    spook01@comcast.net
> Login Name:    Not logged in
> Login Email:    Not logged in
> IP Address:    174.237.224.237 - 174.237.224.237
> Host Address:    237.sub-174-237-224.myvzw.com
> Date and Time:    Mon Jun 3 2013 20:28:50 MST

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 17:27:50 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>, "'triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130604232445.C5A29427CE@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 19:23:03 -0400
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: AQHyzb+1QCBNvbkM/9hK+S81or+kfZjdWRnw
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Message from The Vintage Racer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check with Racetorations in the UK (www.racetorations.co.uk).  I got one for
my TR3.

Andrew Uprichard
Cousin of the owner of Racetorations, but NFI

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 7:15 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Message from The Vintage Racer

FYI

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Forwarded message -----
From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4@cs.com>
To: "ray" <spook01@comcast.net>
Subject: Message from The Vintage Racer
Date: Tue, Jun 4, 2013 5:31 pm


We did one production run of 10# steel flywheels a few years ago. Have
elected not to spend the time to market them.

Thanks for the inquiry.

Joe Alexander

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 3, 2013, at 10:28 PM, ray <ARE@the-vintage-racer.com> wrote:

> From:    ray
> Email:    spook01@comcast.net
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Do you offer a lighter steel flywheel for the TR4 (bolt on starter 
> ring) drilled for a TR6 pressure plate?  Thanks for your help.
> Ray
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Office Use Only:    
> From:    ray
> Email:    spook01@comcast.net
> Login Name:    Not logged in
> Login Email:    Not logged in
> IP Address:    174.237.224.237 - 174.237.224.237
> Host Address:    237.sub-174-237-224.myvzw.com
> Date and Time:    Mon Jun 3 2013 20:28:50 MST

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 17:56:12 2013
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	Jun 2013 23:51:26 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <35171967-176B-4F23-B87D-313CDB371E99@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 18:51:33 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Balancing Carbs Oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

First guess is one throttle disc is not centered (the one on which the screw 
is all the way in of course) or there is a leak in the throttle shaft area 
(should be it properly rebuilt) or the linkage is hanging up and it won't 
let the throttle close all the way, if you push the shaft the direction that 
closes the throttle on the suspect carb end does it slow down?

Good Luck,

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 18:26:15 2013
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <74ca20f9.1ce6150.24520a2c.56ae@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2013 20:19:52 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 suspension adjustment question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

55 to 60 pounds.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark Hooper
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2013 2:22 PM
To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] TR6 suspension adjustment question

OK, last question for a bit, I promise...

I took my TR6 to inspection yesterday, where it passed first time. Phew!

However, the inspector did note that the right front wheel was able to move
about 1/8" relative to the car due to slop in the lower A-arm/trunnion 
joint.
I can't say I was shocked since, when driving down the highway, I felt the 
car
to be driving like a fish swims compared to my memory of what should be.
Wiggling the steering wheel, I actually thought I had forgotten to tighten 
the
wheel nuts.

The inspector thought things might just be too loose. I wasn't so sure, but
not about to disqualify my car by opening my big mouth and disagreeing.
However, on disassembly, I found the castellated nut on the big cross bolt 
was
not even finger tight.

I had thought it was the nylon top hat bushings, but having bought some new
ones, they look about the same as the parts I put in 20 years ago when
starting the re-build (so long it's been!) I do see there is some wear in 
the
trunnion bore and A-arm ends, but not too dreadful, so I will conserve my
little stock of pennies and just clean, lube and tighten up properly until 
the
end of the season.

I think part of the problem is that I recall following the procedure which
left things quite loose. Now that I look at the setup, it seems clear that 
the
bolt should be quite tight to hold the trunnion, spacers and arms rigid at 
90
degrees relative to each other while still permitting the arm ends to turn 
the
nylon top hats on the spacers. But, that tightness is at variance with some 
of
the documentation.

As noted in the forum link below, this is not a new issue:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?79394-TR6-Trunnion-Lower-A-
Arm-Bolt-Torque-or-End-Float

I too possess a Haynes manual (complete with various errors) so now suspect 
my
problems come from worshipping at the wrong alter of mechanical purity.
(Perhaps next I must buy new Baal joints...)

So, how tight should I be setting the cross bolt on the suspension?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun  4 22:19:53 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <16922265.535894.1369747646981.JavaMail.root@vznit170190>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 00:11:57 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues - Thank you.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a follow-up to let all know what I found

1) dimmer switch bad - no continuity from solidblue connection (middle) to
high beam side (double spade terminals)
2) test headlamp had high beam only
3) Bad relay on low beam side

No wonder nothing worked.....  I had spares of both the dimmer and relay.
Found an old headlamp I could use to test (not sure what it was from - it
was a large hi/low rectangular lamp)

Spent a good 12 hours sorting it out.  4 blown fuses.  Original Test
headlamp now has no beams :^)   
But the lights shine brightly now....

On to the tail lights and indicator lamps.   Hopefully much easier.   No
brake fluid yet so can't test that function until next week sometime.

Talked with the folks at AdvanceAutoWire - the fuses are on the lamp side of
the relay so that any short (which would probably occur at the lamps) would
not pass through the relay to eventually the switch.   There is a fuse on
both the low and high beam circuit.   Since I had a single hot wire feeding
into the relays from the control box through a second fuse box on the
firewall, I decided to go ahead and add one after the relays on the footwell
behind/above the dip switch.  I am putting P700 lamps with halogen bulbs on
the car and thought it might be prudent.  Perhaps that is overkill, but it
seemed to make sense in my feeble brain..

Later,
C



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 9:27 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out' Issues - Thank you.

Thanks to Dave, Randall, Greg, & George for the responses.  I will spend
some time checking the various suggestions over the next few days.   I
noticed on the schematic from Advanced Auto that the fuses are after the
relays - I assume to protect the relays from shorting out.    Is there an
advantage to that since I'll be 'up there' anyway and wouldn't be a major
issue in switching.
 
Thanks again.


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 05/27/13, Carl-TR wrote:

The project is moving along.. ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.



See
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
ALL.png.html (email if problems viewing it)



I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
switch.

Checked the fuses - ok

Checked juice from the switch - ok

Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok



But no lights. 



Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail. 

Grounded at Horn Tower connection. Just in case - put a jumper from ground
lead directly to battery - no difference.



Anything wrong with my schematic? 



Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
both relays are bad.



Any insight is appreciated..





Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

<http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 06:08:15 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 07:51:13 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Balancing Carbs Oddity
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The reason is it isn't completely closed afterall.  As mentioned, the disc 
may not be centered.  But also remember you have to disconnect the linkages 
from each other so they may move independently.  If the tie linkages are 
still connected adjusting one set screw will open both throttles.

But you probably knew that.

Dave

In a message dated 6/4/2013 5:16:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
guy@genfiniti.com writes: 
> I am using a Uni-Syn tool to balance the air flow (main idle).
> The weird thing is that I achieve balance with the front carb's screw not
> touching at all (therefore the throttle is not opened at all), and the 
> rear
> carb's screw is engaged (thus opening the throttle).
> If this is correct, it means I am getting air flow balance from one carb
> completely closed, and the other partially opened, which should not 
> happen.

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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 16:08:20 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow Listers
 
I rarely post now as I no longer own any Triumphs as where I
live was built before the days of the car, hence no garage space.
 
That to
one side, I've noticed of late that the FBHVC (Federation of Historic British
Vehicle Clubs in the UK) seems to be getting very despondent about the use of
ethanol in modern fuel and the fact that ethanol is judged by the FBHVC to be
harmful to older cars of our preference. I'm making no claims or statements
one way or the other but I've a feeling this hue and cry is vaguely redolent
of the situation 12+ years back when leaded fuel was finally abandoned in the
UK. In those days, if you listened to the prophets of doom at the time (and
believed them) most classic cars would completely vanish from the scene within
a few years. Well, I never believed any of the trash published by the classic
car press (and some clubs) and we've still got those cars in probably the same
numbers? 
 
As I knew at the time and did my best to present an alternative
view based on technical evidence from the Engineering Divisions at Rover, Land
Rover and BMW Mobile Tradition, even re-seating exhaust valves truly wasn't
essential, neither was the use of octane boosters or lead substitutes. Cars
were happily running on lead memory - and thousands still do!
 
I'm simply
curious to know what you guys think and may have discovered in the unavoidable
use of ethanol in your tanks? AFAIK you've been using it a lot longer than we
have - and without any problems if the lack of posts on this list are to be
believed? When I drove "uncle jack" across the States and Canada in 2009
(18,000 miles in just two months driving) the only issues with fuel were two
blocked fuel filters and a failed Facet pump in Vancouver. Since then, I've
not seen anything from Phil Ethier who now owns "uj" about ethanol probs he
has (or hasn't) had and all this leads me to believe the whole scenario could
be something of a 'red herring.'
 
Comments off list would be interesting. As
I said, I no longer own a classic car and my daily transport is diesel powered
and came out of Korea.
 
Cheers, Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 09:40:40 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'John Macartney'" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>, "'Triumph List'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 08:26:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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Out here in the desert, all I can say is that ethanol blends are not
working.

Modern cars utilize closed pressurized fuel systems.  Our vintage cars do
not.  On hot days (and there are a lot of them in Las Vegas) the fuel will
literally vaporize (evaporate/boil) in the float bowls, causing lean
conditions and drivability problems, particularly in stop and go traffic.  

Not sure of any needle/float/mixture combination that once set can
accommodate the range of temperatures and conditions we are dealing with -
that's why new cars have computerized ignition programs.  

The fact of the matter is that on the hottest days, even my  modern cars
have drivability problems.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

----- 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 10:24:45 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 12:01:36 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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I meant to send this to the list in addition to John.


> John,
>
> I have heard terrible things about ethanol even in newer engines. I am 
> not a chemist but since I can get non ethanol high test here in CNY, I 
> use it in all my Triumphs.
>
> I have to say that they do run great using this blend.
>
> I also had the cyl. heads modified for unleaded years ago just to be 
> safe.
>
> I figure I have about 15 years of driving left. I hope the engines 
> last until then!
>
> Then it will be up to my 3 kids to decide what to do.
>
> Bob

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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 09:12:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Q <hdrider570@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]  TR4A - Balancing Carbs Oddity
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You may want to check that the pistons did not get swapped from one carb to the other.  While the piston itself is a generic fit part there is a height adjustment at the bottom of the piston, a small brass area if I remember correctly, that sets the stop height of the piston at idle.

I had a set of TR4 carbs come back from the rebuilder in such a condition.  The telltale was that with the engine stopped and the air cleaners off I could see that the gap below the piston was different on the two carbs.  Swapping the pistons made the gaps equal and cured all the strange idle problems I was having.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 10:52:56 2013
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Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 09:31:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Scott Suhring <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, Triumph Mail List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 59 TR3A Choke Setting
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On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 9:05 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> If you check Practical Hints, I believe there is a photo in there that
> shows
> the unusual arrangement at the front...



Said photo...

http://tinyurl.com/kgeb82p

Though my view is -- whatever works that gives you full choke & full
release w/o binding is best.

Geo

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	<51AF5CA3.7090202@adelphia.net> <51AF60E0.9080602@adelphia.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 11:31:43 -0500
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We have three stations in town, Abilene, Texas, that still provide
ethanol-free petrol.  I stop there whenever I can, but not exclusively.  It's
been 5300 miles since the rebuild and adding hardened seats, no problems.

The other issue I heard of, but not experienced, was the softening of the
older rubber fuel lines.  Mine are all new, 5 years ago, and have no problems.
Perhaps someone else can speak to this.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 5, 2013, at 11:01 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> I meant to send this to the list in addition to John.
>
>
>> John,
>>
>> I have heard terrible things about ethanol even in newer engines. I am not
a chemist but since I can get non ethanol high test here in CNY, I use it in
all my Triumphs.
>>
>> I have to say that they do run great using this blend.
>>
>> I also had the cyl. heads modified for unleaded years ago just to be safe.
>>
>> I figure I have about 15 years of driving left. I hope the engines last
until then!
>>
>> Then it will be up to my 3 kids to decide what to do.
>>
>> Bob
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:13:24 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 13:04:33 -0400 (EDT)
To: guy@genfiniti.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Balancing Carbs Oddity
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Guy,
 
This is not meant to be insulting but sometimes little obvious things get  
overlooked.....did you slacken the throttle linkage clamps next to both 
carbs to  allow the carbs to work independently of the accelerator shaft?
 
You can't set proper balance if the throttle shaft between both carbs  is 
fastened tight.
 
If you're good on this then try using the front carb as the starting point  
for balancing by turning the idle screw down to raise the idle to a point 
where  you can say you've actually raised the idle by turning the screw.  Set 
 the UniSyn to that flow rate then go the rear carb and set its idle screw 
to  achieve the same Unisyn flow rate.
 
Once you've dialed in a balanced flow rate, tighten the throttle shaft  
clamps, give the throttle a few good blips to settle things down and adjust 
each  idle screw up or down equally to get the desired idle speed.
 
Providing that everything else is "okay", this should balance your  carbs.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/4/2013 6:16:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
guy@genfiniti.com writes:

Greetings All,

I've recently found myself with some free  time, and am looking into those 
low
priority items on my punch  list.
First up is trying to get my engine to purr, as I've always had a  rough 
idle,
with the RPM vacillating over a range of roughly 125, but  smooths out while
driving.

I believe the issue might be indicated by  something odd with my carbs (SU
HS6), which I had rebuilt by  Paltech.
Here's the scenario..

I am using a Uni-Syn tool to balance  the air flow (main idle).
The weird thing is that I achieve balance with  the front carb's screw not
touching at all (therefore the throttle is not  opened at all), and the rear
carb's screw is engaged (thus opening the  throttle).
If this is correct, it means I am getting air flow balance from  one carb
completely closed, and the other partially opened, which should  not happen.

I'm planning on checking for a vacuum leak, and hoping I  find one.
Is there anything else I could look for?

Maybe the  throttle in the front carb is NOT closing all the way, even 
though
the idle  screw is not engaged?
Maybe the cylinders aren't creating an equal amount  of vacuum?

Thanks in advance!!



Cheers,

Guy D.  Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at  http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 11:31:08 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 13:16:26 -0400 (EDT)
To: flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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John,
 
I can't blame ethanol gas to be certain but it does seem odd that I had to  
replace the fuel filter on my TR6 twice during the past 8 years (motor 
stopped  running).  Upon examination of the filter (I sawed it in half and 
removed  the metal shell to get to the element), the element was literally 
plastered with  a choking slurry of what looked like heavy mud.  Shining a 
flashlight into  the fuel tank didn't reveal anything odd so I really don't know 
where the gunk  came from.
 
I've never had rubber hose, fuel pump or gasket problems with ethanol  gas.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/5/2013 11:08:54 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:

Fellow  Listers

I rarely post now as I no longer own any Triumphs as where  I
live was built before the days of the car, hence no garage  space.

That to
one side, I've noticed of late that the FBHVC  (Federation of Historic 
British
Vehicle Clubs in the UK) seems to be  getting very despondent about the use 
of
ethanol in modern fuel and the  fact that ethanol is judged by the FBHVC to 
be
harmful to older cars of our  preference. I'm making no claims or statements
one way or the other but  I've a feeling this hue and cry is vaguely 
redolent
of the situation 12+  years back when leaded fuel was finally abandoned in 
the
UK. In those days,  if you listened to the prophets of doom at the time (and
believed them)  most classic cars would completely vanish from the scene 
within
a few  years. Well, I never believed any of the trash published by the 
classic
car  press (and some clubs) and we've still got those cars in probably the  
same
numbers? 

As I knew at the time and did my best to present an  alternative
view based on technical evidence from the Engineering Divisions  at Rover, 
Land
Rover and BMW Mobile Tradition, even re-seating exhaust  valves truly wasn't
essential, neither was the use of octane boosters or  lead substitutes. Cars
were happily running on lead memory - and thousands  still do!

I'm simply
curious to know what you guys think and may  have discovered in the 
unavoidable
use of ethanol in your tanks? AFAIK  you've been using it a lot longer than 
we
have - and without any problems  if the lack of posts on this list are to be
believed? When I drove "uncle  jack" across the States and Canada in 2009
(18,000 miles in just two months  driving) the only issues with fuel were 
two
blocked fuel filters and a  failed Facet pump in Vancouver. Since then, I've
not seen anything from  Phil Ethier who now owns "uj" about ethanol probs he
has (or hasn't) had  and all this leads me to believe the whole scenario 
could
be something of a  'red herring.'

Comments off list would be interesting. As
I said, I  no longer own a classic car and my daily transport is diesel 
powered
and  came out of Korea.

Cheers, Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 13:18:30 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 15:13:19 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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Greetings;

There is a lot of gossip around this topic but I also think there is a lot 
of guilt by association, as well.  There are a couple of symptoms that come 
with plausible explanations.  One is that the old rubber bits do not 
tolerate ethanol and you will find yourself replacing fuel line and rebuilding your 
fuel pump and carburettors before too long.

Another symptom is that ethanol can (will) dissolve the accumulated varnish 
in the tank which may cause filter clogging.  This is particularly an issue 
on fuel injected engines (such as TR8, SD1).  Once the varnish has been 
etched away the problem goes away.

Here in the Midwest we have been using 10% ethanol for about 20 years and 
both the TR3 and the TR6 suffered fuel pump issues.  The diaghram turned rock 
hard and the pump would not pump.  Other than that it was a clean 
switch-over.

It ain't the end of the world.

Cheers

Dave

In a message dated 6/5/2013 10:08:39 AM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> I'm simply
> curious to know what you guys think and may have discovered in the 
> unavoidable
> use of ethanol in your tanks? AFAIK you've been using it a lot longer than 
> we
> have - and without any problems if the lack of posts on this list are to 
> be
> believed? When I drove "uncle jack" across the States and Canada in 2009
> (18,000 miles in just two months driving) the only issues with fuel were 
> two
> blocked fuel filters and a failed Facet pump in Vancouver. Since then, 
> I've
> not seen anything from Phil Ethier who now owns "uj" about ethanol probs 
> he
> has (or hasn't) had and all this leads me to believe the whole scenario 
> could
> be something of a 'red herring.'

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 13:34:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2013 14:21:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: ptegler@verizon.net
To: flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 15:12:00 2013
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From: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 17:06:57 -0400
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tenax
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List

I seem to remember tenax studs that were long enough to go through the
windscreen frame. You would drill out both sides of the frame with a drill
press and be able to put a nut on the inside- useful if the threads in the
frame have been stripped (like some of mine).

I can't find them now anywhere.

Does anyone have a link?

TIA

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 16:12:32 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Alexander Delis'" <ols@bcdef.net>, "'Triumph List'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <FAF58F84-129C-4C8A-A1C1-387EEA458014@bcdef.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:00:24 -0400
Thread-Index: AQG6hi8XpE+dkNJ5VLQYfF+b9kIiJplPY17g
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Tenax
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Roadster factory have some which have a screw going through to the tenax
itself.  Like you say, a great solution - but be careful you don't crack the
windscreen glass when you drill.

Andrew UPrichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alexander Delis
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 5:07 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Tenax

List

I seem to remember tenax studs that were long enough to go through the
windscreen frame. You would drill out both sides of the frame with a drill
press and be able to put a nut on the inside- useful if the threads in the
frame have been stripped (like some of mine).

I can't find them now anywhere.

Does anyone have a link?

TIA

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun  5 16:45:46 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <FAF58F84-129C-4C8A-A1C1-387EEA458014@bcdef.net>
	<000e01ce6238$15f45db0$41dd1910$@uprichard.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2013 18:17:57 -0400
Thread-Index: AQG6hi8XpE+dkNJ5VLQYfF+b9kIiJgEN21NHmUb5ZGA=
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tenax
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MAN !!  I spend my life explaining it is U'prichard, not Up-richard - and
then I go signing my name UPrichard.  Oh well......

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 6:00 PM
To: 'Alexander Delis'; 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Tenax

Roadster factory have some which have a screw going through to the tenax
itself.  Like you say, a great solution - but be careful you don't crack the
windscreen glass when you drill.

Andrew UPrichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alexander Delis
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2013 5:07 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Tenax

List

I seem to remember tenax studs that were long enough to go through the
windscreen frame. You would drill out both sides of the frame with a drill
press and be able to put a nut on the inside- useful if the threads in the
frame have been stripped (like some of mine).

I can't find them now anywhere.

Does anyone have a link?

TIA

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 10:05:21 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for your thoughts guys, on and off-list. Seems the prime concern is
premature degradation of rubber and neoprene components in the fuel system. We
had that in the UK in 2000 when unleaded became mandatory. Seems most of the
Triumph fuel injected cars had to renew their metering units and injectors
through minute bits of rubber breaking away. The unleaded fuel attacked the
fuel lines that hitherto had lived on leaded and it seems as though ethanol is
similarly inclined.
 
Jonmac

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Alexander Delis'" <ols@bcdef.net>, "'Triumph List'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <FAF58F84-129C-4C8A-A1C1-387EEA458014@bcdef.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 04:54:20 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5iMK9XwXvFDZAHTTuSaGfJx5c6EQAeuEQg
Subject: Re: [TR] Tenax
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I seem to remember tenax studs that were long enough to go through the
> windscreen frame. You would drill out both sides of the frame with a drill
> press and be able to put a nut on the inside- 

I believe you (and Andrew) are thinking of P/N 553837 from TRF.

However, the nut goes on the outside; the inside end is tapered like a
flathead screw (so you should cut a tapered hole to match).  These were
original equipment on the (weaker) aluminum frames.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <ee617.6b441d1e.3ee0e7cf@cs.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 05:02:58 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5iIN3NmK9jppBUT0yStiGn9EmJqgAi+lYg
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> One is that the old rubber bits do not
> tolerate ethanol and you will find yourself replacing fuel line and
> rebuilding your
> fuel pump and carburettors before too long.

Which also only needs to be done once.

I would suggest just doing those things as a pre-emptive strike; rather than
waiting for a failure.  I thought I had done exactly that with my recently
resurrected "barn find" TR3; but discovered a few days ago that I overlooked
one soft fuel line ... the line from the filler to the tank.  It has turned
to mush and now allows fuel to slop out into the boot on hard turns with a
nearly full tank.

-- Randall

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 05:21:32 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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> Modern cars utilize closed pressurized fuel systems.  Our vintage cars do
> not.  On hot days (and there are a lot of them in Las Vegas) the fuel will
> literally vaporize (evaporate/boil) in the float bowls, 

FWIW, one of Joe's carb heat shields helped a lot with that problem in my
TR3. 

But I don't think it is the ethanol itself causing the problem, but rather
the nation-wide vapor pressure specifications that came with it.
Gasoline/petrol is a blend of petro chemicals; and refiners have always
adjusted the blend to best suit local conditions.  Now they face stiff fines
if they don't follow the EPA requirements.  Hopefully this will be much less
of an issue in the UK (which in any case is remarkably short of desert
conditions <g>)

Randall

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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 06:08:29 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1370444900.78247.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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On 6/5/13 8:08 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> I'm simply
> curious to know what you guys think and may have discovered in the unavoidable
> use of ethanol in your tanks?
Cars: 1961 TR3 & 1960 Land Rover  Both had locally sourced rubber fuel 
lines.

After the switchover to ethanol blend petrol both vehicle suffered from 
the fuel lines disintegrating.  It took a months of running on the new 
fuel before the fuel filters started clogging. By the time all was over 
I had to replace the fuel lines on both vehicles from the tank to the 
carbs, clean out carb fuel chambers,  clean the screens on the DCOE 
inlets and the screens on the fuel pumps. Each car went through a couple 
filters.  The old fuel lines looked perfect on the outside but were 
dissolving on the inside.

Once I replaced all the pre-ethanol fuel lines with new formula fuel 
lines everything has been OK and trouble free.

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 07:36:40 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <ee617.6b441d1e.3ee0e7cf@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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The boot ?  boot ?

Randall - all this British car talk is having an effect on you. What's next?
To-mah-toe ?    :-)

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 8:03 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol

> One is that the old rubber bits do not tolerate ethanol and you will 
> find yourself replacing fuel line and rebuilding your fuel pump and 
> carburettors before too long.

Which also only needs to be done once.

I would suggest just doing those things as a pre-emptive strike; rather than
waiting for a failure.  I thought I had done exactly that with my recently
resurrected "barn find" TR3; but discovered a few days ago that I overlooked
one soft fuel line ... the line from the filler to the tank.  It has turned
to mush and now allows fuel to slop out into the boot on hard turns with a
nearly full tank.

-- Randall

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 09:31:53 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5iwegBPNvA+HsfTDGRZEsS+LMe8g==
Subject: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This story starts with a trip to the dentist, doesn't every TR story start
that way?  For several years I have had a cheap set, Harbor Freight 6/$3.99
dental picks in my box that have proved very handy for small things,
especially rebuilding SU carbs and electrical components.  So on a recent
visit for a checkup I inquired of the young lady what they did with their
old tools.  She responded that they re-sharpen them if they can, then they
are discarded.  I asked if they had any old ones around and if I might have
a couple(this is where I pull out a picture of the very cute TR3 "Tarbaby").
Behold, when she gives my little bag with a new brush and floss there are a
dozen used dental tools in it of all different sizes and thicknesses.
 
I also keep a syringe(we have a goat that needs monthly shots) and one of
those bulbs that they use to clean out newborn baby's noses in my toolbox.
Very handy for sucking the last bit of fluid from the brake res, gas from
the float bowl and adding just a little oil to the SU chamber tops.
 
Would like to hear from the list what 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your shop
that have proved handy over the years.  Things you don't find on the Snap-On
truck.
 
Open discussion,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 14:25:24 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR]  Household TR 'Tools'
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wbeech@flash.net wrote:  

>Would like to hear from the list what 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your
shop that have proved handy over the years.  >Things you don't find on the
Snap-On truck.

 

I've found that the removable top from an old Bic pen makes a dandy fuel
line stopper.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 12:55:41 2013
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From: dave@ranteer.com
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

btw how does one find a snap on tool truck?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [TR]  Household TR 'Tools'


wbeech@flash.net wrote:  <br/><br/>>Would like to hear from the list what
'Non-Tool tools' you have in your<br/>shop that have proved handy over the
years.  >Things you don't find on the<br/>Snap-On truck.<br/><br/>

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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You can always find the snap truck when you don't have money

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave@ranteer.com
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 2:51 PM
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'

btw how does one find a snap on tool truck?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [TR]  Household TR 'Tools'


wbeech@flash.net wrote:  <br/><br/>>Would like to hear from the list what
'Non-Tool tools' you have in your<br/>shop that have proved handy over the
years.  >Things you don't find on the<br/>Snap-On truck.<br/><br/>

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Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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On 6/6/13 11:50 AM, dave@ranteer.com wrote:
> btw how does one find a snap on tool truck?
>
>
I find them at random intervals sitting in front any kind of automotive 
shop.  There is one who services my town so when I needed an 8 point 
socket I just drove around town until I found the shop he was at.  
Flagstaff is small enough that you can do that sort of searching.

TeriAnn

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Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 16:01:52 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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Talk to one of the shops in your area -- they'll be on the local
franchisee's route and can tell you when he comes by.

Alternatively, SO has a nice website, too, where you can order anything.



On 6/6/13, dave@ranteer.com <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> btw how does one find a snap on tool truck?
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: [TR]  Household TR 'Tools'
>
>
> wbeech@flash.net wrote:  <br/><br/>>Would like to hear from the list what
> 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your<br/>shop that have proved handy over the
> years.  >Things you don't find on the<br/>Snap-On truck.<br/><br/>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 16:31:34 2013
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Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2013 18:24:47 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood support rod
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Hello List:
Just puzzling about the hood support rod. Can someone let me know how it 
is fastened to the front lip of the hood? Just acquired one and no 
hardware - have two small screw/ bolt holes flanking a square hole on 
the front lip. I'm assuming that the fastening uses a couple of narrow 
clips and sheet metal screws - or do they use a machine screw in a 
specialized 'clip'??
Would be great to have a hood support rod; using a custom cut hockey 
stick shaft now.
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 17:21:01 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood support rod
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Angelo:  the hood / bonnet should have two small threaded studs protruding
just  to the side of front center.  Attaching the rod is a simple case of
two nuts on these studs.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 6:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood support rod

Hello List:
Just puzzling about the hood support rod. Can someone let me know how it is
fastened to the front lip of the hood? Just acquired one and no hardware -
have two small screw/ bolt holes flanking a square hole on the front lip.
I'm assuming that the fastening uses a couple of narrow clips and sheet
metal screws - or do they use a machine screw in a specialized 'clip'??
Would be great to have a hood support rod; using a custom cut hockey stick
shaft now.
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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 I've not yet taken advantage of this (since I've already amassed a pretty
good set of Craftsman tools over the last 40+ years), but one of the members
of my local Triumph club is a Snap-On rep. ;)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




On 6/6/13, dave@ranteer.com <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
 > btw how does one find a snap on tool truck?>>

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To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
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I've heard the dishwasher is good for cleaning parts, but I have no first hand
knowledge :-)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 19:04:36 2013
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Subject: [TR] Non tool tools
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List,

 

I've used coat hanger wire to make several tools. One is about a foot long
with a 1/4" 90 deg. bend at one end. It's used to hold down the lifters when
pulling out the push rods. Another is a miniature dipstick to measure the
oil level in TR4-TR6 gearboxes. You make an 80 deg. bend about an inch long,
then come back from the bend an inch or so and form a finger loop in the
same plane. The finger loop should be larger than the filler hole. Guess
why. You poke the bend in thru the filler hole and level the wire on the
lower side, which is the correct fluid level. If the fluid is up to the
bend, you're good, but you can also see if it is low.

 

Cheers,

 

Pete Fullam

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun  6 21:04:41 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools
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One of my favorite non-tool tools is in truth a tool.  It is a brightly 
colored toy plastic hammer.
It weighs maybe 2 or 3 ounces.  There are times when you want to really 
wail on something,
like a fitting in a carb, without actually hitting it very hard.

mjb.

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From: Home Consolidated <triumphs@consolidated.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 22:27:59 -0500
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Turkey baster,. Same idea as the baby bulb, but more capacity.

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 6, 2013, at 9:29 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> One of my favorite non-tool tools is in truth a tool.  It is a brightly
colored toy plastic hammer.
> It weighs maybe 2 or 3 ounces.  There are times when you want to really wail
on something,
> like a fitting in a carb, without actually hitting it very hard.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 04:59:23 -0400
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In the late 70's I decided to wash my TR3 oil pan on the dish washer 
while my wife was away. I put it in added ammonia to cut the crease and 
went to watch TV. After a while I smelled ammonia and went back to the 
kitchen. The danged ammonia had suds-ed up, overflowed the dish washer 
and was covering about a 3rd of the floor. It was a hardwood floor and 
after I mopped it up and it dried, I saw it had removed the wax finish. 
Needless to say when the wife got home, there were some "dismay" and I 
got that look that only and agitated wife can give you. So I ended up 
having to refinish the floor, clean the grease scum out of the dishwasher.
AS an ending note, the oil pan looked good and so did the floor after I 
put dawn paste wax and buffed it.  Never tried that technique again and 
wrote off the dishwasher as a car parts washer.

Doug
On 6/6/2013 8:05 PM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> I've heard the dishwasher is good for cleaning parts, but I have no first hand
> knowledge:-)

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 06:41:23 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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	<116EC72F-AC5B-4FE6-8F7C-70A1FEC42B21@consolidated.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 06:33:16 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

4' length of 3" oil field steel pipe that I found on the side of the road 
about 20 years ago.  It has a very thick wall which makes it perfect for 
drilling/tapping for bolts to hold things.  It substitutes for a slide 
hammer, gear puller, pry bar, and handle extension when serious leverage is 
needed.

Cheers,

Cliff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Home Consolidated
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 9:27 PM
To: Mark J Bradakis
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools

Turkey baster,. Same idea as the baby bulb, but more capacity.

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 6, 2013, at 9:29 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> One of my favorite non-tool tools is in truth a tool.  It is a brightly
colored toy plastic hammer.
> It weighs maybe 2 or 3 ounces.  There are times when you want to really 
> wail
on something,
> like a fitting in a carb, without actually hitting it very hard.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 06:58:26 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0BDA4D5B54894734ACEE68B4A675A250@bboffice>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 08:53:31 -0400
Thread-Index: AQGCamExSbNBDrvbmqB99vBny20lNpnCJE/g
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have always collected "caplugs" that are often installed on the ends of
new hydraulic hoses, tank openings or any other area that the manufacturer
wants to protect. These are handy for plugging fuel lines, hoses, radiator
outlets, etc., etc. They keep dirt out of a sensitive opening and can keep
fluid from leaking. Unfortunately, I have never seen a basic assortment of
these for sale - I just keep collecting the things as they show up.
Unfortunately, I have never had enough nerve or time to buy packages of a
thousand of each common size and become a retailer.  http://www.caplugs.com/


Alex Thomson 


Would like to hear from the list what 'Non-Tool tools' you have in your shop
that have proved handy over the years.  Things you don't find on the Snap-On
truck.
 
Open discussion,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 08:14:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 07:09:08 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My arthritic hands have trouble gripping a big spin-on oil filter to get it
tight enough but using one of those rubber-disc jar openers makes it much
easier.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 10:11:49 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 11:13:20 -0400
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac5jkYuuYuSAyG9sRwufnSPL3YFxZw==
Subject: [TR]  Non tool tools
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"Peter" <pfullam@nycap.rr.com> wrote:

>I've used coat hanger wire to make several tools. 

 

   Here's another use for coat hangers - they can be used in place of the
pins that hold the door handles on a TR6. Crimp the wire about 1" from the
end, stick it is the hole in the winder between the handle and the door
panel and snap it off. Much easier than trying to hold back the panel while
holding the pin in a pair of forceps and trying to get it to drop in.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 10:36:37 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
	mail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non tool tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A buddy gave me a gardening kneepad (a section of foam rubber about 
6" by about 18" with a hole in one end for a handgrip).  I use it all 
the time to save my knees.  Also have a pit mat for laying under the 
car - provides some padding and keeps my back from getting as grungy 
- that's kind of an actual tool, though.  Also, +1 on the turkey 
baster - stays in the van for the race track tools.

Tony

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 14:30:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 15:15:32 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: mathews@uga.edu
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The dishwasher does work well as a final cleanse.  Kelly must be out for
the day! She'd kill me.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Rick" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 13:36:15 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been looking at the replacement Hi-Torq starter (Moss and others) for
my post-TS50000 TR3A. Is this a straightforward plug-and-play replacement
part, or is some modification involved? Any satisfied listers out there who
have installed this part?

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA Victor Special

1973 Norton 750 Commando Combat 

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 17:33:09 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 15:43:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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	Gecko/20130509 Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 6/7/13 12:15 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
> The dishwasher does work well as a final cleanse.  Kelly must be out for
> the day! She'd kill me.
>
>
Move the dishwasher into the garage and buy a new one for the kitchen.

It is my dishwasher and my cars and I don't do it.  Geeeezzzz

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 19:31:49 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 20:42:21 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5j4OMAyIXU8NX8Q2Kx2gw+rW6R1A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Seelastik Equivalent
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What does everybody use for an alternative to Seelastik for water sealing
various parts per TR4 factory workshop manual.  I am ready to seal!

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:01:19 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Rick'" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 17:58:48 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought the cut over was TS60000? You do not want to put the wrong one in.
I have TS57201L and it had the earlier bullet nose. I replaced it with the
new hi-torq. Physically the installation is no harder than the original
starter, maybe even easier as it is smaller. Electrically is easy also
unless you use Randall's wring scenario and forget that you have the lead
for your auxiliary fan coming off the power terminal you just bypassed. 

The only downside is that when you start the engine, it just doesn't sound
as good.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2013 1:36 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A

I've been looking at the replacement Hi-Torq starter (Moss and others) for
my post-TS50000 TR3A. Is this a straightforward plug-and-play replacement
part, or is some modification involved? Any satisfied listers out there who
have installed this part?

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:33:56 2013
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Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 21:38:06 -0400
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Household TR 'Tools'
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just think of the dishwasher as another box to think outside of!;-)
On 6/7/2013 6:43 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> It is my dishwasher and my cars and I don't do it.  Geeeezzzz 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:35:46 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <008401ce63e1$0aa8a920$1ff9fb60$@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 18:39:25 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5j4OMAyIXU8NX8Q2Kx2gw+rW6R1AAB/OUw
Subject: Re: [TR] Seelastik Equivalent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If that is the same thing that is used to seal body panels, I have used 3M
body panel sealer and find that it works quite well.  It is sold in tubes
that go in a standard caulking gun.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2013 5:42 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Seelastik Equivalent

What does everybody use for an alternative to Seelastik for water sealing
various parts per TR4 factory workshop manual.  I am ready to seal!

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 20:36:18 2013
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Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:42:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: chandler.rick@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my case it was a straightforward replacement.   I can't remember where I got it - I think TSI.


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 06/07/13, Rick wrote:

I've been looking at the replacement Hi-Torq starter (Moss and others) for
my post-TS50000 TR3A. Is this a straightforward plug-and-play replacement
part, or is some modification involved? Any satisfied listers out there who
have installed this part?



Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA Victor Special

1973 Norton 750 Commando Combat 

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 21:43:05 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <28029615.1202163.1370655771397.JavaMail.root@vznit170176>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2013 22:03:59 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

highly recommend tsi

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2013 8:42 PM
To: chandler.rick@comcast.net ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A

In my case it was a straightforward replacement.   I can't remember where I 
got it - I think TSI.


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 06/07/13, Rick wrote:

I've been looking at the replacement Hi-Torq starter (Moss and others) for
my post-TS50000 TR3A. Is this a straightforward plug-and-play replacement
part, or is some modification involved? Any satisfied listers out there who
have installed this part?



Rick in Seattle 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun  7 22:56:11 2013
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "TR List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 00:25:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-tool tools
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An  UNUSED  Fleet enema bottle,  about 6 oz., with narrow nozzle and 
atractive orange cap.  Ideal for adding damper oil to the carbs.

Tom 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 01:21:19 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC>
	<001d01ce63e3$55ffb330$01ff1990$@net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 00:16:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5jvqe88beCM4LoRQqi7sJLnwtlAAAImUfAAAS+V+A=
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I thought the cut over was TS60000?

Should have been TS50000 for the starter and flywheel (but the extensive
body changes were at TS60000).  But obviously many cars are no longer
wearing their original equipment by now, so you should probably check what
you have before ordering.

A friend of mine had an early TR3 that somehow had gotten a later flywheel
by the time it came to him (in pieces).  The gear-drive replacement for the
early starter worked a dozen times or so; before it wouldn't turn the engine
any more.

-- Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 01:25:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 08:20:51 +0100
From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: Tom Note <tom628@verizon.net>
Cc: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-tool tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been reading this thread with much interest. It is amazing what you
guys come up with.

One of my most useful non TR tool is a simple offcut I picked up years ago.
It is a piece of 1x1/4 thick wall hollow tube about a foot long which easy
slips over a spanner (wrench) to help loosen those stubborn 50 year old
nuts. It has other uses too it is far better to throw across the workskop
in a tantrum when something goes wrong than a very expensive Snap On
spanner (wrench)!
Adrian 1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.


On 8 June 2013 05:25, Tom Note <tom628@verizon.net> wrote:

> An  UNUSED  Fleet enema bottle,  about 6 oz., with narrow nozzle and
> atractive orange cap.  Ideal for adding damper oil to the carbs.
>
> Tom
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@**virgin.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net>

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 01:37:49 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Rick'" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 00:32:37 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5jvqe88beCM4LoRQqi7sJLnwtlAAAWYCXQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement starter for my TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I've been looking at the replacement Hi-Torq starter (Moss and others) for
> my post-TS50000 TR3A. Is this a straightforward plug-and-play replacement
> part, or is some modification involved? Any satisfied listers out there
> who
> have installed this part?

I've been running the later style starter since 2001 (even though both cars
have been pre-TS50k), been quite happy with it.  Lately I've been starting
to suspect it needs attention, as the engine doesn't spin quite as fast as
it used to, but I haven't actually had it out to look yet.  Even with the
gear drive, I suppose that brushes and bushings can still wear out over
time.

The starter can be a direct bolt-on; but I chose to make two modifications:
I added a Helicoil to the transmission flange so I never have to fight with
that dang upper nut again; and I changed the wiring so the original solenoid
(which had lost part of its smoke before making the change) only switches
current to the new solenoid (on the starter).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 05:44:41 2013
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Subject: [TR] Heater Blower Motor
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If the person needing the TR6 heater motor is still in need, please contact me
off list.

B 

Ed Woods

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 08:34:29 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 07:29:27 -0700
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Pivot Pin removal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking for insight into how to remove the brake pedal pivot pin from the
brake master cylinder. Old and rusted, but it just won't budge. Is there any
chance it might be reversed screw threads?  I have tried it both ways, but
can't get it to budge.

Thanks for your time


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 09:07:36 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 07:54:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pivot Pin removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill

My recollection is that it is the usual righthand threads.

I assume you've tried PBlaster or some penetrant?

In addition to turning it with a screwdriver using the slot in the head I
think there are also 2 flats on each side of that head that will take a
wrench (7/16"?).  A wrench (if you haven't tried that yet) will give you a
lot more torque (or whatever it is that moves bolts).

Geo


On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 7:29 AM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:

> Looking for insight into how to remove the brake pedal pivot pin from the
> brake master cylinder. Old and rusted, but it just won't budge. Is there
> any
> chance it might be reversed screw threads?  I have tried it both ways, but
> can't get it to budge.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 11:50:46 -0400
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 73 Triumph GT6 left half shaft wobble.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Long story short: late last year I removed the rear axles in my 73 GT6 so a
shop could renew the bearings. I put them back in and drive it for a few
months. Today I had the car on stands for another reason when I saw this bad
wobble in the left shaft (see YouTube video).  Doesn't it look like the shaft
is bent?  I didn't hit anything with it.

Martin Secrest
Arlington VA


Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/O3F_TA9YkPs

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 10:06:34 2013
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References: <FEBBE5B1-7952-46FA-845F-0417A19FB641@verizon.net>
From: "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 11:56:22 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 73 Triumph GT6 left half shaft wobble.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you forward to :50 seconds in the video you get the best view of the axle
wobble. The ujoint isn't making noise, but I didn't check it out thoroughly.

Sent by my butler

On Jun 8, 2013, at 11:50 AM, "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net> wrote:

> Long story short: late last year I removed the rear axles in my 73 GT6 so a
shop could renew the bearings. I put them back in and drive it for a few
months. Today I had the car on stands for another reason when I saw this bad
wobble in the left shaft (see YouTube video).  Doesn't it look like the shaft
is bent?  I didn't hit anything with it.
>
> Martin Secrest
> Arlington VA
>
>
> Check out this video on YouTube:
>
> http://youtu.be/O3F_TA9YkPs
>
>
> Sent by my butler

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 16:02:25 2013
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To: moira.secrest@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] 73 Triumph GT6 left half shaft wobble.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 To me, yes, it does appear that the shaft wobbles a bit. :(



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: M. Secrest <moira.secrest@verizon.net>


Long story short: late last year I removed the rear axles in my 73 GT6 so a
shop could renew the bearings. I put them back in and drive it for a few
months. Today I had the car on stands for another reason when I saw this bad
wobble in the left shaft (see YouTube video).  Doesn't it look like the shaft
is bent?  I didn't hit anything with it.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 18:58:25 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 19:51:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] need pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

any early tr4 or late tr3b b of the gas line between the fuel pump and the
carbs.  this guy put a filter and some weird routing.

thanks!  please send pics offline (obviously).  piggott book pictures really
donbt show me what I need.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 18:58:52 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 19:50:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

late tr3b, I finally got it running after who knows how many years.

drove it around the block and down to the gas station a few days ago.  flushed
and put that stuff in it that is supposed to clean out the system.  still in
it.

ran it for about 15 minutes tonight, probably 3k rpm (no tach), no temp gage,
using infrared thermometer b keeps 180 b 190 after warmed up.  thermostat
works (tested that on the stove).  seemed just fine.  no water
leaking/escaping.

turn it off and water comes out of the cap.  a lot.  replace it?  is 4 lb
right (thatbs what it says on the cap).

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 19:07:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Pugh'" <anabil007@comcast.net>, "'TR3/6'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <EC873D84-E067-4FF4-82F8-936B7F295F95@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 17:56:14 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5kVKgQ82CoQ9D7RjipCkTMTn2noAAVdkwA
Subject: Re: [TR] Pivot Pin removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Looking for insight into how to remove the brake pedal pivot pin from the
> brake master cylinder. Old and rusted, but it just won't budge. Is there
> any
> chance it might be reversed screw threads?  

As I recall, you pretty much have to remove the complete pedal assembly from
the car first.  The process is covered in the workshop manual, page R15.
(written for Lockheed brakes, but I believe the pedals are the same even
though the MC & its bracket are completely different).  Then there are two
bolts that go into the pin, one from each side.  You have to remove both of
those, and take away the brackets that they go through, in order to expose
the ends of the pin.

ISTR I then reinstalled the bolts (to avoid damaging the pin any further)
and commenced pounding with a large brass drift & BFH.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 19:36:05 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <767C1C4B9741441D972F1246123878ED@Datsun>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 20:29:37 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know the rating of a TR3B cap, but what you describe is a common 
occurrence, you top up the radiator, run the car, shut off the car, heat 
from the motor heats up the coolant, which is no longer circulating, to its 
highest temperature yet, it expands and leaks out the cap, two solutions, 
install a catch/return tank as they started to do in the sixties, you can 
get one from a later LBC, or a generic plastic one from a local chain auto 
parts store.  I used a generic one on a car I used to have, and was 
surprised when it not only caught the overflow, but returned most of it when 
the motor cooled back down.

Plan B, let it overflow a couple times and it will reach its sustainable 
level.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 19:54:29 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <767C1C4B9741441D972F1246123878ED@Datsun>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 20:48:44 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5kq94tgVOLhLkpT3u2wW9uf+6HKgABPBlQ
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

You may just have it overfull, when cold the neck should only have about
1/2" of coolant. BTDT, more than that and it will self-adjust the level for
you.

Yes, 4lb cap but check to be sure you have the right depth.  My '58 is a 1"
drop and the '62 is only 3/4", no way to know if you have the original rad
or not so just measure before you head to the FLAPS.

BTW, if you don't have a heater you could move up to a 7lb cap with no
problems.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 7:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] wrong cap

late tr3b, I finally got it running after who knows how many years.

drove it around the block and down to the gas station a few days ago.
flushed and put that stuff in it that is supposed to clean out the system.
still in it.

ran it for about 15 minutes tonight, probably 3k rpm (no tach), no temp
gage, using infrared thermometer b keeps 180 b 190 after warmed up.
thermostat works (tested that on the stove).  seemed just fine.  no water
leaking/escaping.

turn it off and water comes out of the cap.  a lot.  replace it?  is 4 lb
right (thatbs what it says on the cap).

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 20:27:14 2013
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References: <76EB2FF5994F4996B293C6E5118D8A40@Datsun>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 19:22:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] need pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave -- see if these tell you anything...

TR4, not early but I don't think anything changed with later ones and this
is a pretty accurate routing:

[image: Inline image 1]

Of course the TR3A will have the cap tube secured to the fuel line with
those aluminum straps over black friction tape:

[image: Inline image 2]

In either case, the fuel line is secured in a rubber grommet w/I a metal
strap attached to the lower bole of the tstat housing.  Vac line is also
secured in that same grommet.

Geo

PS:  Dave get the pics, the rest of you will have to use your imaginations.


On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 5:51 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> any early tr4 or late tr3b b  of the gas line between the fuel pump and the
> carbs.  this guy put a filter and some weird routing.
>
> thanks!  please send pics offline (obviously).  piggott book pictures
> really
> donb t show me what I need.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fuel Line 1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fuel Line 2.JPG]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 20:41:21 2013
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Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2013 22:35:55 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I see that STANT has 4 PSI radiator caps. In fact, I find there are three.
P/N's 10205, 10208, and 10281. Anyone have a source to tell them apart?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> late tr3b, I finally got it running after who knows how many years.
>
> drove it around the block and down to the gas station a few days ago.
> flushed
> and put that stuff in it that is supposed to clean out the system.  still
> in
> it.
>
> ran it for about 15 minutes tonight, probably 3k rpm (no tach), no temp
> gage,
> using infrared thermometer b keeps 180 b 190 after warmed up.
> thermostat
> works (tested that on the stove).  seemed just fine.  no water
> leaking/escaping.
>
> turn it off and water comes out of the cap.  a lot.  replace it?  is 4 lb
> right (thatbs what it says on the cap).
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 22:17:18 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <FEBBE5B1-7952-46FA-845F-0417A19FB641@verizon.net>
	<043FF303-2D35-4AC6-B754-2C6EECD51DC6@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 00:12:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] 73 Triumph GT6 left half shaft wobble.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Martin... from the video your shaft looks straight,,,,, but the visible 
'up-down' motion you can see of the inner end of the shaft is telling me 
your u-joint is off center.

This does not necessarily mean the joint or yokes are bad, as these days 
there is enough free play in the end cap to clip dimensions to allow a bit 
of offset of the center of the u-joint to  the centerline of the yoke.

This can be rectified with either thicker clips, or the proverbial 'coins' 
cut from a soda can as spacer shims between clips and u-joint bearing caps 
to take up the slack and center the u-joint.



Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] 73 Triumph GT6 left half shaft wobble.


> If you forward to :50 seconds in the video you get the best view of the 
> axle
> wobble. The ujoint isn't making noise, but I didn't check it out 
> thoroughly.
>
> Sent by my butler
>
> On Jun 8, 2013, at 11:50 AM, "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> Long story short: late last year I removed the rear axles in my 73 GT6 so 
>> a
> shop could renew the bearings. I put them back in and drive it for a few
> months. Today I had the car on stands for another reason when I saw this 
> bad
> wobble in the left shaft (see YouTube video).  Doesn't it look like the 
> shaft
> is bent?  I didn't hit anything with it.
>>
>> Martin Secrest
>> Arlington VA
>>
>>
>> Check out this video on YouTube:
>>
>> http://youtu.be/O3F_TA9YkPs
>>
>>
>> Sent by my butler
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

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Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2013 21:18:34 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130509 Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <767C1C4B9741441D972F1246123878ED@Datsun>
	<01b2932df27c72887d7481f7244f2d34.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 6/8/13 7:35 PM, greg@gelhar.com wrote:
> I see that STANT has 4 PSI radiator caps. In fact, I find there are three.
> P/N's 10205, 10208, and 10281. Anyone have a source to tell them apart?
>
Generic radiator caps will not work properly on a TR3-3B radiator. The 
filler neck is longer and the bottom of the cap does not seal. The wrong 
camp acts the same as no cap.  You need to get a special longer cap.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun  8 23:28:46 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <76EB2FF5994F4996B293C6E5118D8A40@Datsun>
	<CANzE1bFELfnoF-j+c-WMHgHwqvmBXXeJNobwNJT-W9t2sv-gUg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 00:21:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] need pictures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

george -

thank you so much!  this is exactly what I need.  and definitely NOT how the
dpo routed it!!!

dave

From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 9:22 PM
To: Dave ; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] need pictures

Dave -- see if these tell you anything...

TR4, not early but I don't think anything changed with later ones and this is
a pretty accurate routing:



Of course the TR3A will have the cap tube secured to the fuel line with those
aluminum straps over black friction tape:



In either case, the fuel line is secured in a rubber grommet w/I a metal strap
attached to the lower bole of the tstat housing.  Vac line is also secured in
that same grommet.

Geo

PS:  Dave get the pics, the rest of you will have to use your imaginations.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fuel Line 1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Fuel Line 2.JPG]

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <767C1C4B9741441D972F1246123878ED@Datsun><01b2932df27c72887d7481f7244f2d34.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
	<51B4021A.6060500@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 08:14:27 -0500
thread-index: Ac5kyNA5cxOdV5OeQrmw5Dj/zicFxwASGfIw
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I got the longer cap at NAPA, $6.00, while my 3B used the shorter cap. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 11:19 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wrong cap

On 6/8/13 7:35 PM, greg@gelhar.com wrote:
> I see that STANT has 4 PSI radiator caps. In fact, I find there are three.
> P/N's 10205, 10208, and 10281. Anyone have a source to tell them apart?
>
Generic radiator caps will not work properly on a TR3-3B radiator. The
filler neck is longer and the bottom of the cap does not seal. The wrong
camp acts the same as no cap.  You need to get a special longer cap.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR List " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 10:31:10 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5lHfwYlDY/b55LQgi80xG8OTv3ZQ==
Expiry-date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter - help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am putting the gear shift lever in and cannot recall how the little spring
and plunger are installed.   Does it matter which direction the plunger
faces (toward the engine or toward the tail)?  Are there any tips on how to
keep it in place while installing?

As usual - any/all suggestions appreciated.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year.. 
Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:07:34 -0400
References: <mailman.5052.1370788577.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 207
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2013-06-09, Dave  wrote:
> In either case, the fuel line is secured in a rubber grommet w/I a metal
strap
> attached to the lower bole of the tstat housing.  Vac line is also secured
in
> that same grommet.

Here is a picture of the strap/grommet that George described.
(picture will be deleted in the copy to the list)

If you are looking for the correct length and bends for the original setup,
Classic Tube sells a pre-bent set in either steel or stainless. They claim it
to be for the TR3-4A (57-67) but obviously there had to be at least three
different setups for those models as three different carb setups were used: SU
H6s, ZS, and SU HS6s. The one they actually sell is correct for the H6s except
for the two small curved pieces that go from the float bowls to the edge of
the air filters. I am currently working with Classic Tube to help them modify
their design to include correct pipes for the ZS and HS6 carbs.


Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 09:19:17 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:14:16 -0400
References: <mailman.5052.1370788577.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wrong Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2013-06-09 TeriAnn wrote:

> Generic radiator caps will not work properly on a TR3-3B radiator. The
> filler neck is longer and the bottom of the cap does not seal. The wrong
> camp acts the same as no cap.  You need to get a special longer cap.
>
>

The TR3/4 long neck rads use a 1" deep cap. The rads that do not have the long
neck use a >" deep cap. It seems that many of the replacement aluminum rads
with the long neck were designed to use the newer >" cap.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 10:34:32 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5052.1370788577.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<B0EFBB34-821D-4DD2-A427-80D7DD02F325@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 10:48:07 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Wrong Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks again for all the help.  I went to look at the cap, and it was indeed 
1".  but there was no rubber washer at the top!  I'm getting another one 
today at a flaps if they have it.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Keith Stewart
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 10:14 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wrong Cap

On 2013-06-09 TeriAnn wrote:

> Generic radiator caps will not work properly on a TR3-3B radiator. The
> filler neck is longer and the bottom of the cap does not seal. The wrong
> camp acts the same as no cap.  You need to get a special longer cap.
>
>

The TR3/4 long neck rads use a 1" deep cap. The rads that do not have the 
long
neck use a >" deep cap. It seems that many of the replacement aluminum rads
with the long neck were designed to use the newer >" cap.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:14:04 2013
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	<CC7D3FA9C4024ACE93B0A028C1B60093@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 10:09:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wrong Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 8:48 AM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> ... I went to look at the cap, and it was indeed 1".  but there was no
> rubber washer at the top!
>


Should there even be one there (mine has no rubber washer up top)?

Remember this is not a closed/recovery system -- so the important (rubber)
seal is the one at the bottom.

I did add an upper rubber seal to my TR4 cap because I also added a
overflow/recovery bottle -- but as far as I know the correct caps had none.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:48:48 2013
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Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2013 13:48:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.

I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4 aluminium
pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks and
the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor will
be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the boat)
and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.

I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?

Mark
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 11:59:16 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC>
	<7bea94a8.1ce6539.3df2602e.58b0@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 10:48:57 -0700
thread-index: Ac5lOOx1q4VU3FmoQMSm2W3ALfGZ7gAAGu5Q
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

How about Corian like they make counter tops out of?  Surely you can get
scraps from a shop that installs them for nothing.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 10:48 AM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC question

I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.

I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4 aluminium
pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks and
the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor will
be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the boat)
and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.

I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?

Mark
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 12:52:40 2013
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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:46:59 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: triumph list list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Overheating TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the gauge,
suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate, then
return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so. I've done
nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The coolant
may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing - may
have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle. New
sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
What have I done?
Many thanks, as always.

John Howard
65 TR4
73 Stag

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 12:53:11 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 14:47:35 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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How about pressure treated wood.  That's non-rotting.

Dave

In a message dated 6/9/2013 12:43:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper@indiefilmnet.com writes: 
> I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.
> 
> I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4 
> aluminium
> pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
> Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
> them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks 
> and
> the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
> something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor 
> will
> be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the 
> boat)
> and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.
> 
> I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
> resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:47:43 -0700
Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 11:47:43 -0700
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Subject: [TR] problem gas?
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I've had a problem last few outings.  Car acts like the key is turned off.
For a few seconds, then comes back, then goes off. Then is fine.  Not on
freeway, but around town.  I've run into similar before, fuel starvation.
Replaced the fuel filter, checked the pump, OK.  Drained some gas from the
tank, right from the bottom where the fuel line connects into my drain pan.
It had a little dirt, and some gel looking stuff, but also something strange.
Bubbles.  Not of air, but something else.  When I went for a ride right after
that all was well.
 I syphoned some off the top of the tank for my lawn mower, and put some into
a clear glass jar.  Next morning it looked fine. I drained some more out, a
couple of quarts, into my oil drain pain which I had cleaned, from the bottom
of the tank. It looked fine.  It separated out into these fine bubbles, which
then combined into a large different color mass.
Could this just be residue from the drain pan or do I have bad gas?
Contact me off line as well, I am anxious about driving the car.
As always, thanks in advance...OH yea, 1971 TR6
Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 13:00:35 2013
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From: David Templeton <davidt@opentext.com>
To: "mhooper@indiefilmnet.com" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Non-LBC question
Thread-Index: AQHOZTjh/bZqVzfTU0OtZx4GdRV5Ypktud1w
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 18:52:39 +0000
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC>
	<7bea94a8.1ce6539.3df2602e.58b0@indiefilmnet.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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Mark

Isn't there marine plywood, it is supposed to be non-rotting ( as much as
anything ), the stuff they used to use in Morgan's?  The other alternative
would be aluminum blocks.

David
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------

I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.

I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4 aluminium
pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks and
the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor will
be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the boat)
and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.

I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?

Mark
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 13:06:58 2013
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References: <COL127-DS18A47F18A7F4AA4D565535C19B0@phx.gbl>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 14:01:35 -0500
To: Peter Arakelian <peterara@msn.com>
Cc: Listers <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like water in the gas.  When you have drained from the bottom you are
seeing it as water is heavier.

Don't know how much is in your tank but I would drain it from the bottom to be
sure I got it all.

Check you fuel filter(s) too.

Bill B

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 9, 2013, at 1:47 PM, "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com> wrote:

> I've had a problem last few outings.  Car acts like the key is turned off.
> For a few seconds, then comes back, then goes off. Then is fine.  Not on
> freeway, but around town.  I've run into similar before, fuel starvation.
> Replaced the fuel filter, checked the pump, OK.  Drained some gas from the
> tank, right from the bottom where the fuel line connects into my drain pan.
> It had a little dirt, and some gel looking stuff, but also something
strange.
> Bubbles.  Not of air, but something else.  When I went for a ride right
after
> that all was well.
> I syphoned some off the top of the tank for my lawn mower, and put some
into
> a clear glass jar.  Next morning it looked fine. I drained some more out, a
> couple of quarts, into my oil drain pain which I had cleaned, from the
bottom
> of the tank. It looked fine.  It separated out into these fine bubbles,
which
> then combined into a large different color mass.
> Could this just be residue from the drain pan or do I have bad gas?
> Contact me off line as well, I am anxious about driving the car.
> As always, thanks in advance...OH yea, 1971 TR6
> Peter
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 13:54:20 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 15:49:13 -0400
References: <mailman.13.1370800802.26390.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wrong Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry about my earlier post when it displayed as:

> The TR3/4 long neck rads use a 1" deep cap. The rads that do not have the
long
> neck use a >" deep cap. It seems that many of the replacement aluminum rads
> with the long neck were designed to use the newer >" cap.
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

I noticed the character substitution. The newer rads take a three quarters
inch depth cap ( > ).
Keith

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 14:50:38 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 16:35:59 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4
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Have you noticed a similar pattern with the fuel gauge?  If so then perhaps 
your voltage stabilizer has gone bad.  There may be nothing at all wrong 
with your engine or cooling system.

Dave

In a message dated 6/9/2013 1:47:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
leejohn7@gmail.com writes: 
> Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the 
> gauge,
> suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate, then
> return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so. I've 
> done
> nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The coolant
> may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing - may
> have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle. New
> sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
> What have I done?
> Many thanks, as always.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 15:03:01 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <06730D57858341DDB165165D60288CEA@RickPC><7bea94a8.1ce6539.3df2602e.58b0@indiefilmnet.com>
	<BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E7BAE9352@otwlxg20.opentext.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 15:51:56 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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try cutting up a plastic cutting board.

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Templeton
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 1:52 PM
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com ; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question

Mark

Isn't there marine plywood, it is supposed to be non-rotting ( as much as
anything ), the stuff they used to use in Morgan's?  The other alternative
would be aluminum blocks.

David
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------

I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.

I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4 aluminium
pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks and
the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor will
be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the boat)
and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.

I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody? 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 16:36:17 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 15:25:41 -0700
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	FILETIME=[3AE70ED0:01CE6560]
Subject: [TR] problem gas? update
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Thanks for the responses.
I think, though, it is residual in the plastic oil drain pan.  I drained more
fuel from the bottom of the tank into a new, unused glass jar and got nothing
but clear gas after several hours.  I have been using an ethanol problem
preventive additive, though not as often as I should.  The real test will be
next longish drive.
Sorry for the panic, but you know how that is...
Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun  9 17:45:07 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "'TR List '" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAANe6ncEowJFEgptcyDOSu7UBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 19:39:49 -0400
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter - help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl:  I'd be interested in the combined wisdom of the list on this, but my
thoughts were that the rounded end of the plunger should face out, but when
I tried this in my TR250, I could not select the gears, particularly
reverse.  Had to flip it.  In my TR3 it didn't seem to matter which way the
plunger went.

Andrew Uprichard
Just back from a 780 mile round trip to Southern Indiana - with a new TR3
project !!!  This is what makes a Michigan winter bearable.  Well, Bushmills
whiskey also helps......

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 10:31 AM
To: TR List 
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter - help

I am putting the gear shift lever in and cannot recall how the little spring
and plunger are installed.   Does it matter which direction the plunger
faces (toward the engine or toward the tail)?  Are there any tips on how to
keep it in place while installing?

As usual - any/all suggestions appreciated.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year.. 
Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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 Dave, I showed your e-mail to the rotting 20-year-old P/T piece of decking on
my deck, and it laughed. ;) In fairness, it's only one spot on only one board.
Still, I'm not convinced that wood is the best solution here!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>


How about pressure treated wood.  That's non-rotting.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 19:29:07 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: Dave1massey@cs.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Fuel gauge hasn't worked right for years...mostly lies at empty. Recently
bought new in-tank unit, yet to install.
John

On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 1:35 PM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> Have you noticed a similar pattern with the fuel gauge?  If so then perhaps
> your voltage stabilizer has gone bad.  There may be nothing at all wrong
> with your engine or cooling system.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/9/2013 1:47:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
> leejohn7@gmail.com writes:
> > Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the
> > gauge,
> > suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate, then
> > return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so. I've
> > done
> > nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The coolant
> > may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing - may
> > have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle. New
> > sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
> > What have I done?
> > Many thanks, as always.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2013 19:29:53 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: Dave1massey@cs.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good idea - will do. Thanks

John

On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 7:29 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7@gmail.com> wrote:

> Fuel gauge hasn't worked right for years...mostly lies at empty. Recently
> bought new in-tank unit, yet to install.
> John
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 1:35 PM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Have you noticed a similar pattern with the fuel gauge?  If so then
>> perhaps
>> your voltage stabilizer has gone bad.  There may be nothing at all wrong
>> with your engine or cooling system.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> In a message dated 6/9/2013 1:47:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
>> leejohn7@gmail.com writes:
>> > Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the
>> > gauge,
>> > suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate, then
>> > return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so. I've
>> > done
>> > nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The coolant
>> > may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing - may
>> > have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle. New
>> > sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
>> > What have I done?
>> > Many thanks, as always.
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] 2 versions of TR4 temp sensors
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John,
You may have fixed something that wasn't broke! Here's a long-shot..  there
are 2 different specs for the TR4 Temp Senders.. 1] early TR4 and TR4A have
same specs, 2] mid-range TR4s use a different spec'd temp sensor (which are
now very hard to find). The major vendors all seem to sell just one version
for early TR4 THROUGH TR4A (they don't sell the mid-range TR4 temp sensors). I
have the real deal for my mid-range TR4. Wondering if either your old sensor
eventually went bad, or any of the other things you adjusted caused heating
problem, in mean time you may have bought the only version of temp sender now
available - which may now be misleading your gauge.
The temp sensors can be tested.. put in pot of water and heat water with
thermometer and ohmmeter hooked up to sensor. Then check ohms at certain
temperatures to match specs for early TR4 & TR4A, or mid-range TR4.
If this sounds like fun bI can dig through my files and forward you those
specs.
Or you might just reinstall your old sensor in car and see what happens..
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the gauge,
suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate, then
return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so. I've done
nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The coolant
may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing - may
have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle. New
sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
What have I done?
Many thanks, as always.

John Howard
65 TR4
73 Stag

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Dave1massey@cs.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 02:15:26 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Another electrical possibility is ground is being lost for a moment  
and back and forth. Maybe time to clean some connections. Start with  
the battery cables.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Jun 9, 2013, at 2:35 PM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:

> Have you noticed a similar pattern with the fuel gauge?  If so then  
> perhaps
> your voltage stabilizer has gone bad.  There may be nothing at all  
> wrong
> with your engine or cooling system.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/9/2013 1:47:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
> leejohn7@gmail.com writes:
>> Well, after four years of running dead-center in the OK area on the
>> gauge,
>> suddenly the needle has begun to crawl to the red as I accelerate,  
>> then
>> return to high normal when I come back to idle or 2000 RPM or so.  
>> I've
>> done
>> nothing except fool with the Webers ( an ongoing amusement). The  
>> coolant
>> may have been a bit low, but is now topped off. Checked the timing  
>> - may
>> have been underadvanced at 1000 rpm, now set at 15 degrees at idle.  
>> New
>> sleeved thermostat, even new temp sensor. Heater valve is closed.
>> What have I done?
>> Many thanks, as always.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 07:29:41 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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Interesting.  My 20 year old P/T deck is holding up quite well.  Even the 
posts set right in the ground.  Maybe you got a piece that was not properly 
treated.

Still, if Mark only gets 20 years out of that boat before another 
rebuild...

In a message dated 6/9/2013 7:44:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
zoboherald@aol.com writes: 
> Dave, I showed your e-mail to the rotting 20-year-old P/T piece of 
> decking on my deck, and it laughed. ;) In fairness, it's only one spot on only 
> one board. Still, I'm not convinced that wood is the best solution here!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 07:36:38 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4
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Oh well, so much for the easy check.

It could be a genuine overheating problem or it could just be a gauge 
indication problem.  I can't count how many times I assumed the worse and only 
after some expensive repairs found out it was an easy problem.  If you have 
one of those infrared thermometers you can verify you have an actual overheat 
problem before you put in a new radiator or change the pump or something 
else expensive.

Dave

In a message dated 6/9/2013 9:29:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
leejohn7@gmail.com writes: 
> Fuel gauge hasn't worked right for years...mostly lies at empty. Recently 
> bought new in-tank unit, yet to install.
> John
> 
> On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 1:35 PM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
> >> Have you noticed a similar pattern with the fuel gauge?  If so then 
>> perhaps
>> your voltage stabilizer has gone bad.  There may be nothing at all wrong
>> with your engine or cooling system.

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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR List " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 07:54:58 -0400
Expiry-date: Sat, 07 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter
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I followed the same route Bill did and mimicked the Moss catalog.  Seemed to
go in ok - with a little coaxing.
I ended up using a zip-tie to keep the plunger recessed.  Installed it,
clipped the zip and pulled it out.   It was nearly impossible to see if it
stayed in place - I'll just have to wait until I can actually shift the
tranny (no clutch fluid yet) to make sure.

Spent the rest of the day making sure all of the electric connections were
tight under the dash - found one that pulled apart without any effort.
Fixed that.  Put the harness behind all of the 'clips' and used a couple
zip-ties to keep everything up and out of the way.   BOY ARE THERE A LOT OF
WIRES BEHIND THERE.....

Didn't get to the tail and indicator lamps like I wanted.  Nothing seems to
take the amount of time allotted... about 1 1/2 - 2 - 3 times as much....
Maybe tonight after work.  Sure wish I could call in 'sick' but it is budget
season at the University and deadlines are looming.   I'm just glad I didn't
have to go into work this weekend.

I do need to install the driver's seat as I am taking it to the local LBC
mechanic to check it all - brakes, tune, align, etc. etc. on Tuesday.  I
want to make sure I didn't do something stupid along the way - like put the
engine in backwards..  :^)

I started taking this car apart on September 28 2001 for a four year project
- It looks like I'll be done by the twelfth anniversary...  (there is that
theme again -- 3 times as long and I would be willing to bet - 3 times as
much $.)

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech@flash.net [mailto:wbeech@flash.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 7:10 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter - help

Carl,
Did you get an answer to this?  I recently put the lever back on my TR3B
using the picture in the Moss parts catalog that appears to show it facing
the rear.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 9:31 AM
To: TR List
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shifter - help

I am putting the gear shift lever in and cannot recall how the little spring
and plunger are installed.   Does it matter which direction the plunger
faces (toward the engine or toward the tail)?  Are there any tips on how to
keep it in place while installing?

As usual - any/all suggestions appreciated.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year.. 
Tampa, FL

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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 10:05:03 -0400
References: <mailman.5107.1370831691.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas? update
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On 2013-06-09, at 3:25 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote:

> I have been using an ethanol problem
> preventive additive, though not as often as I should.

Not to hijack the thread, but to start another on this one component, what are
the pros and cons of the various ethanol treatments. I used Stabil for years
when storing the cars for the winter. I now use Lucas "Safeguard" Ethanol Fuel
Conditioner and recently tried some StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment after an
enthusiastic endorsement at a local speed shop. What are your experiences with
the various products available and for those in the know on these things, what
evidence or reports are available? As always, thanks in advance for your
collective wisdom.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 10:25:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'hakhutch@roadrunner.com'" <hakhutch@roadrunner.com>,  'Triumphs'
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question
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Hi Tim:

A very Canadian suggestion,,, despite your location. :^)

The material is ideal I think. Alas, hockey pucks are not big enough to cover
the space required.

I had lots of interesting responses from the list. I going to have a go with
some PVC planking that Cliff Davies(a nearby list member) has volunteered.
I'll keep my eyes on it for stability, since I'm not sure how the conditions
will affect the stuff. Still, I think the load is only about 25 lb/sq. inch,
so I'm hopeful that nothing too untoward will occur.

Cheers and thanks again to the almighty list!

Mark
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Hutchisen [mailto:hakhutch@roadrunner.com]
Sent: June-10-13 7:28 AM
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-LBC question

Mark,
    Try hockey pucks. Stiff durometer, waterproof.
Tim Hutchisen
Norway, ME
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 1:48 PM
Subject: [TR] Non-LBC question


>I did promise no TR6 questions for a bit; so this one is a boat question.
>
> I'm re-mounting a boat motor. It's a big old Ford 351 sitting on 4
> aluminium
> pads secured by 4" lag screws to the boat's motor bunks (frame members).
> Problem; the fellow who rebuild the rotted out motor bunks for me replaced
> them about 3/4" too low. I am looking to make spacers between the bunks
> and
> the motor mounts. I'll make temporary pieces from wood, but would prefer
> something non-rotting. The material must be quite stiff since the motor
> will
> be pushing on the mounts (unlike most that push on the transom of the
> boat)
> and I don't want it torquing the screws out of the boat.
>
> I'd thought of that artificial wood for decks, but have no idea about it's
> resistance to oil etc. Suggestions anybody?
>
> Mark
> 1972 TR6

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From: "Rick" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 08:38:13 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Problem gas?
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Peter,



The bubbles you see in the gas are water bubbles. With a lot of water in the
gas, youll see long worms of water (2) often containing debris. This was
a common spring-time problem for me with 3 pieces of British iron as they
are all put to bed in early November and restarted in late May, when I
return to Seattle. Ive adopted the following technique that appears to
avoid the problem: From mid-summer onward I use StaBil (cant tell any
difference between the marine and automotive products) additive in the tanks
and put the car and bikes to bed in the fall with their tanks < filled. When
I return in May, I drain a pint of fuel for each tank into a clear container
and check for water. My Triumph has an electric fuel pump, so I simply
detach the hose at the carburetors and use the pump to fill the container.
My bikes always show clear fuel, but I completely drain them (the discarded
and filtered fuel goes into my pick-up) and refill with fresh fuel. The
Triumph often shows some water (and debris) in the first few pints (larger
tank with a larger liquid surface), then clear. Before using StaBil the
separated ethanol absorbed too much water over the winter, and all vehicles
contained heavily contaminated fuel by spring start-up time.



Rick in Seattle

1960 Triumph TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 10:53:34 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 09:48:10 -0700
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	<CANzE1bEHxNjR3=enVC-UjRsg8-Zvv8=3iuVian0=jK3pSCKLag@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pivot Pin removal
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Thanks George,

	There are indeed two flats (7/16), that allowed me to put enough torque on
the pin to break it free, after that it was easy to remove with a good
screwdriver (I snitched one from my gun tool set).  No further effort was
required and the old MC slid out the back easily.

Thanks for the help

On Jun 8, 2013, at 7:54 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bill
>
> My recollection is that it is the usual righthand threads.
>
> I assume you've tried PBlaster or some penetrant?
>
> In addition to turning it with a screwdriver using the slot in the head I
think there are also 2 flats on each side of that head that will take a wrench
(7/16"?).  A wrench (if you haven't tried that yet) will give you a lot more
torque (or whatever it is that moves bolts).
>
> Geo
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 7:29 AM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:

> Looking for insight into how to remove the brake pedal pivot pin from the
> brake master cylinder. Old and rusted, but it just won't budge. Is there
any
> chance it might be reversed screw threads?  I have tried it both ways, but
> can't get it to budge.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 13:30:00 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:24:27 -0400
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Subject: [TR] drain tubes - TR3
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What are the correct destinations for the drain tubes respectively for the
vent tray and the battery box?  I know one goes down through the
transmission cover (battery box, I think), but where does the other go?

Andrew Uprichard

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:26:18 -0400
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Subject: [TR] wooded dash rail - TR3
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone direct me towards anywhere where I can secure a wooden dash rail
for the latest TR# project?  Never seen this before, but the wood has
completely rotted out.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 16:58:12 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 18:52:41 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] drain tubes - TR3
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I dunno.  The engineer in my just tee'd the two tubes together and ran the 
common tube through the hole in the trans cover.

Dave

In a message dated 6/10/2013 2:24:38 PM Central Daylight Time, 
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> What are the correct destinations for the drain tubes respectively for 
> the
> vent tray and the battery box?  I know one goes down through the
> transmission cover (battery box, I think), but where does the other go?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 18:05:28 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1100a8.10817dcf.3ee7b2b9@cs.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:59:51 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] drain tubes - TR3
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Ditto on that for me.  The option seemed to be to run the battery box drain
between the front edge of the tran cover and bulkhead or figure out a way
for the two tubes to co-exist in the one hole.  
I did add enough length so that the 'flow' was below the transmission rather
than into the cavity beside it...


Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2013 6:53 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] drain tubes - TR3

I dunno.  The engineer in my just tee'd the two tubes together and ran the
common tube through the hole in the trans cover.

Dave

In a message dated 6/10/2013 2:24:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> What are the correct destinations for the drain tubes respectively for 
> the vent tray and the battery box?  I know one goes down through the 
> transmission cover (battery box, I think), but where does the other go?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 18:17:16 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2013 19:11:51 -0500
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] drain tubes - TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Battery box goes through the trans tunnel, you got that.  I routed the vent
tray through the firewall at the RHD blanking plate.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 10, 2013, at 2:24 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

> What are the correct destinations for the drain tubes respectively for the
> vent tray and the battery box?  I know one goes down through the
> transmission cover (battery box, I think), but where does the other go?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 10 19:18:50 2013
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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 01:08:48 +0000 (UTC)
From: suhringtr36@comcast.net
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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Our local British Car shop is swearing that all of the problems they are experiencing is due to Ethanol.  He told me that he sees the seperation of the gas and ethenol, and that it is different colors  This can happen in a few days (shelf life of E10 is a few weeks while gas is much longer).  He says that it is gummnig up needles, damaging gas pumps and in essense making his and other garages that service our cars misserable.  I am surprised no one else has made this statement when John raised this question.  Is our local shop making way too much of this?

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 06:37:16 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 07:25:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] radiator cap - conclusion
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I had posted a while back that the car seemed to run fine, not overheating,
but after running for 10 to 15 minutes the car would gush 1/2 a gallon out
around the radiator cap.

as it happens, replacing it with another 4 lb cap solved the problem.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 14:32:58 2013
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From: "Rick" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 13:21:40 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Problem Gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Untreated ethanol-gasoline mixtures segregate over a few months. The
gasoline phase is deprived of the ethanol, lowering its octane. The ethanol
phase is hydroscopic, and in the presence of humid air, will absorb water,
which coalesces into blobs and sinks to the bottom of the tank, just where
the fuel tap is located. Our problem in the vintage car/bike world is that
we use them infrequently and often store them over the winter, when time and
humid air is working against us. Ethanol is not going away, so our solution
to the problem is to adopt the discipline used by other seasonal motorized
enthusiasts (boaters and skimobilers come to mind).

 

1. If you think there is ANY chance that the gas you are pumping into the
tank will remain there for more than 60 days, use a stabilizing additive. 

2. When preparing the vehicle for winter storage, leave one-quarter tank of
stabilized fuel in the tank. This may be controversial, but I believe it
discourages rusting. I usually drain the bowls on the bikes because it is so
easy, and leave the TR3A bowls alone.

3. At spring start-up, drain a pint or so of fuel from the tanks (trivial if
you have an electric fuel pump) into a transparent container and check for
water blobs and debris. Repeat this step until the fuel is clear. Decant and
then filter the extracted fuel with a paper filter and pour it into your
family car. Fill the tank with fresh fuel (with an additive if step 1
applies) and enjoy the season.

 

My vehicles are stored untouched for 7 months each winter, in a dry garage
but with nearly constant rain outside. Since using StaBil three years ago in
the fall, my fuel at spring start-up tests clear, with no water
contamination.

 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 14:36:07 2013
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 15:31:00 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ethanol in gas
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have used ethanol gas in my TR3A for years with none of the problems sited
by the PA mechanic. And I mean years, like at least 20, as Minnesota, being a
corn growing state, was an early adaptor.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 11 15:22:52 2013
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From: "Gary Klein" <tr6.guy@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 17:17:03 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5m6QK6/CBG7/2hTJyxOcx1gfUmGw==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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Scott,

 

I don't think they are.  If my cars sit for more than a few weeks, they run
horribly without treatment.  Same for the mower and snow blower.  I've
resorted to using Techron or SeaFoam to keep the systems clean.  PIA gas!

 

Gary

'75 TR6

'80 TR8

Severn, MD

 

 

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 01:08:48 +0000 (UTC)

From: suhringtr36@comcast.net

To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>

Subject: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?

 

Our local British Car shop is swearing that all of the problems they are
experiencing is due to Ethanol.  He told me that he sees the seperation of
the gas and ethenol, and that it is different colors  This can happen in a
few days (shelf life of E10 is a few weeks while gas is much longer).  He
says that it is gummnig up needles, damaging gas pumps and in essense
making his and other garages that service our cars misserable.  I am
surprised no one else has made this statement when John raised this
question.  Is our local shop making way too much of this?

 

Scott Suhring

Mechanicsburg, PA

'70 TR6

'59 TR3

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ethanol in gas
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In a message dated 6/11/2013 3:31:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jdemuth@ties2.net writes: 
> I have used ethanol gas in my TR3A for years with none of the problems 
> sited
> by the PA mechanic. And I mean years, like at least 20, as Minnesota, 
> being a
> corn growing state, was an early adaptor.
> 
As is Missouri.  Once I rebuilt my fuel pump all has been going swimingly.  
The transition my be a little inconvenient but once you're through that 
there should be no problems.

Come on in, the water is fine.

Dave

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Rick!  It rains in Seattle?????   No!!
;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Rick" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Problem Gas?
Date: Tue, Jun 11, 2013 3:21 pm


Untreated ethanol-gasoline mixtures segregate over a few months. The
gasoline phase is deprived of the ethanol, lowering its octane. The ethanol
phase is hydroscopic, and in the presence of humid air, will absorb water,
which coalesces into blobs and sinks to the bottom of the tank, just where
the fuel tap is located. Our problem in the vintage car/bike world is that
we use them infrequently and often store them over the winter, when time and
humid air is working against us. Ethanol is not going away, so our solution
to the problem is to adopt the discipline used by other seasonal motorized
enthusiasts (boaters and skimobilers come to mind).

 

1. If you think there is ANY chance that the gas you are pumping into the
tank will remain there for more than 60 days, use a stabilizing additive. 

2. When preparing the vehicle for winter storage, leave one-quarter tank of
stabilized fuel in the tank. This may be controversial, but I believe it
discourages rusting. I usually drain the bowls on the bikes because it is so
easy, and leave the TR3A bowls alone.

3. At spring start-up, drain a pint or so of fuel from the tanks (trivial if
you have an electric fuel pump) into a transparent container and check for
water blobs and debris. Repeat this step until the fuel is clear. Decant and
then filter the extracted fuel with a paper filter and pour it into your
family car. Fill the tank with fresh fuel (with an additive if step 1
applies) and enjoy the season.

 

My vehicles are stored untouched for 7 months each winter, in a dry garage
but with nearly constant rain outside. Since using StaBil three years ago in
the fall, my fuel at spring start-up tests clear, with no water
contamination.

 

 

Rick in Seattle

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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I'll bet you can find boat owners who can tell you some tales.
Burning food is hard on engines!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth@ties2.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ethanol in gas
Date: Tue, Jun 11, 2013 3:31 pm


I have used ethanol gas in my TR3A for years with none of the problems sited
by the PA mechanic. And I mean years, like at least 20, as Minnesota, being a
corn growing state, was an early adaptor.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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No.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Gary Klein" <tr6.guy@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Date: Tue, Jun 11, 2013 4:17 pm


Scott,

 

I don't think they are.  If my cars sit for more than a few weeks, they run
horribly without treatment.  Same for the mower and snow blower.  I've
resorted to using Techron or SeaFoam to keep the systems clean.  PIA gas!

 

Gary

'75 TR6

'80 TR8

Severn, MD

 

 

Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 01:08:48 +0000 (UTC)

From: suhringtr36@comcast.net

To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>

Subject: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?

 

Our local British Car shop is swearing that all of the problems they are
experiencing is due to Ethanol.  He told me that he sees the seperation of
the gas and ethenol, and that it is different colors  This can happen in a
few days (shelf life of E10 is a few weeks while gas is much longer).  He
says that it is gummnig up needles, damaging gas pumps and in essense
making his and other garages that service our cars misserable.  I am
surprised no one else has made this statement when John raised this
question.  Is our local shop making way too much of this?

 

Scott Suhring

Mechanicsburg, PA

'70 TR6

'59 TR3

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2013 19:17:30 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: triumph list list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Overheating TR4 - outcome
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My problem was the voltage stabilizer. For reasons too embarrassing to
divulge, the stabilizer had become disabled.
Pointing the remote temp gun at the thermostat housing showed a temp at
idle of 72C, just about right, and no increase upon acceleration.
So, after all that, all I had to do was reset the wiring on the stabilizer
and all was well.
Good grief.

Thanks for all your responses

John

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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 05:08:30 -0400
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Lee&John Howard <leejohn7@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Overheating TR4 - outcome
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Embarrassing moments here can be the most fun!

Glad it was a simple fix.

Doug
On 6/11/2013 10:17 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> For reasons too embarrassing to
> divulge, the stabilizer had become disabled.

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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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Interesting.  My cars sit for months at a time and fire right up.  No 
issues.  My chipper/shredder sits for sit to nine months and fires reluctantly 
but runs fine once started.

Are you sure it's the gas?

Dave

In a message dated 6/11/2013 4:17:25 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr6.guy@verizon.net writes: 
> I don't think they are.  If my cars sit for more than a few weeks, they 
> run
> horribly without treatment.  Same for the mower and snow blower.  I've
> resorted to using Techron or SeaFoam to keep the systems clean.  PIA gas!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 05:43:25 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:38:07 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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If I had a nickel for every time I dug into an expensive subsystem only to 
find the problem was a simple/cheap fix...

Dave

In a message dated 6/11/2013 9:19:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
leejohn7@gmail.com writes: 
> My problem was the voltage stabilizer. For reasons too embarrassing to
> divulge, the stabilizer had become disabled.
> Pointing the remote temp gun at the thermostat housing showed a temp at
> idle of 72C, just about right, and no increase upon acceleration.
> So, after all that, all I had to do was reset the wiring on the stabilizer
> and all was well.
> Good grief.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:48:05 +0000
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	FILETIME=[B41A4700:01CE6762]
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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I don't normally read the list now since I need all the time I can get for
personal care and life support activities.

However, in this case I would make a suggestion.  Find you local fuel depot.
this is a place that store and sell several high octane products for sale to
the trucking
business but it is not a truck stop.

Save up enough money to purchase a 55 gallon drum of110 octane racing fuel.  I
believe that 55 gals is the maximum amount you can legally store in your
garage.  Get a hand crank pump that fits the bung hole of the 55 gallon fuel
drum.

Now get premium gas for your TR the next time it needs filling.  Only fill the
tank to the 3/4 full mark on your fuel gauge.  Then in the garage top off the
tank with the 110 octane racing fuel.

If you plan not to start the engine of the TR for several months put the
recommended amount of "Sta-Bill" fuel stabilizer in the gas tank.

When you start the engine of the TR again, months from now, shake the car to
mix the gas in the tank and make sure the battery has a full charge before
starting the engine.  Then make sure the car is getting fuel in the carburetor
before you attempt to start the engine.

If the engine gives you any hesitation when you attempt to start the engine
spray ether based starting fluid through the carburetors immediately before
your next attempt.  If on your next attempt to start thew engine the TR does
not fire up immediately contact me and I will tow it off for you and put it
out of it's misery.

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 05:59:24 2013
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	Jun 2013 11:53:47 +0000
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <11eed.47956b08.3ee9b257@cs.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:53:59 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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I have the same experience, car sits all winter with the gas that remained 
from the fall and fires up and runs fine at first spring start.
Are you sure it's the gas?

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:15 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: problem gas?

Interesting.  My cars sit for months at a time and fire right up.  No
issues.  My chipper/shredder sits for sit to nine months and fires 
reluctantly
but runs fine once started.

Are you sure it's the gas?

Dave

In a message dated 6/11/2013 4:17:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
tr6.guy@verizon.net writes:
> I don't think they are.  If my cars sit for more than a few weeks, they
> run
> horribly without treatment.  Same for the mower and snow blower.  I've
> resorted to using Techron or SeaFoam to keep the systems clean.  PIA gas!

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv@roadrunner.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 07:46:03 2013
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From: "Gary Klein" <tr6.guy@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:39:47 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5nck4Lc6pmjrenR9O/HU+nV+XnOw==
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Pretty certain.  The carbs idle jets in the mower/snowblower/generator
become clogged and the engines will not idle correctly, if at all. 
Starting is a PIA.  The mower would not idle and Id have to increase the
throttle slightly to get it to idle but even then, it would hunt.  Had to
take off the carbs in each case and clean them and that's when I discovered
the problem.

My TR6 sits the most and it will start but it runs like crap and like the
mower, needs some choke to idle.  I started using SeaFoam in it last year
and it helped but not completely.  After I complete a few honeydew
projects, I plan on removing and cleaning the carbs as I expect their idle
circuits as clogged as well.

The TR8 gets the most use and for the most part its OK.   I have
experienced a strange loss of power situation.  The engine will not develop
enough power to maintain even 55 mph.  I think, but have not verified,
that perhaps one carb float valve may be sticking.  This occurred last year
at the beginning of the driving season and once again before heading off to
the Gathering in April.  What I did was to run a high concentration of
Techron in the tank and it stopped the problem.  Is it the gas in this
case?  Maybe or maybe not but Im thinking about removing the carbs and
inspect them on the 8 after I get the 6 sorted out.

So from my experience, I am fairly certain in at least the power equipment,
it's the gas and I expect it's also a problem with the cars.

Gary

---------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:53:59 -0400
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
	reply-type=original

I have the same experience, car sits all winter with the gas that remained
from the fall and fires up and runs fine at first spring start.
Are you sure it's the gas?

JVV

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 08:12:01 2013
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <005001ce6772$4e790610$eb6b1230$@guy@verizon.net>
Subject: [TR] problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The only engine I have trouble starting in the spring is the 
roto-tiller. I have to remove the air filter and spray gas in order to 
get it started. I then run it on 1/2 choke for about 5 minutes. Then it 
does run but sounds lean. One of these days I will have to remove the 
carb and clean it out.

The mower, snowblower and power washer seem to be fine.

I use stable in every engine when in storage.

Starting 2 years ago, I started running  alcohol free gas in all 3 
Triumphs. I hope it stays available.

No problems starting or running in the spring after at least a 6 month nap.

Stabil is also used in the cars.

The problem I have heard about alcohol is it will cause problems with 
the engine internal alloy parts.

Not sure what is true.

Another thing I have heard is that alcohol does not pack as much punch 
as gas. But if that is so, why do some dragsters use 100% alcohol?

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 09:17:16 -0500
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <005001ce6772$4e790610$eb6b1230$@guy@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I normally dont have problems with the fuel in my spitfire, but this past
weekend my manual choke would not return all the way when I pushed it off.
The knob was all the way in so I had to manually twist the choke mechanism to
get it to shut off.  I havent taken it apart yet to diagnose the problem but
Im wondering if it is gummed up.

Ill start by disconnecting the cable and see if the spring will return it on
its own.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627







On Jun 12, 2013, at 8:39 AM, Gary Klein wrote:

> Pretty certain.  The carbs idle jets in the mower/snowblower/generator
> become clogged and the engines will not idle correctly, if at all.
> Starting is a PIA.  The mower would not idle and Id have to increase the
> throttle slightly to get it to idle but even then, it would hunt.  Had to
> take off the carbs in each case and clean them and that's when I discovered
> the problem.
>
> My TR6 sits the most and it will start but it runs like crap and like the
> mower, needs some choke to idle.  I started using SeaFoam in it last year
> and it helped but not completely.  After I complete a few honeydew
> projects, I plan on removing and cleaning the carbs as I expect their idle
> circuits as clogged as well.
>
> The TR8 gets the most use and for the most part its OK.   I have
> experienced a strange loss of power situation.  The engine will not develop
> enough power to maintain even 55 mph.  I think, but have not verified,
> that perhaps one carb float valve may be sticking.  This occurred last year
> at the beginning of the driving season and once again before heading off to
> the Gathering in April.  What I did was to run a high concentration of
> Techron in the tank and it stopped the problem.  Is it the gas in this
> case?  Maybe or maybe not but Im thinking about removing the carbs and
> inspect them on the 8 after I get the 6 sorted out.
>
> So from my experience, I am fairly certain in at least the power equipment,
> it's the gas and I expect it's also a problem with the cars.
>
> Gary
>
> ---------------
>
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:53:59 -0400
> From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
> To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
> Message-ID: <E51971E39E4440B69670B21E432B5951@UserTHINK>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> I have the same experience, car sits all winter with the gas that remained
> from the fall and fires up and runs fine at first spring start.
> Are you sure it's the gas?
>
> JVV
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bberger720@sbcglobal.net

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References: <51B87FC6.2030607@adelphia.net>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 10:27:43 -0400
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

"Alcohol" is a general descriptor of a chemical class, not any particular
molecule.  Dragsters used methanol (a 1-carbon alcohol), and biofuels are
normally ethanol (2-carbon).  These alcohols have the advantage of high
octane ratings, and racers liked the detonation resistance fershure.  I'm
not sure how much "fuel" is methanol anymore -- others can probably update
us there.

>From Wikipedia:
One liter of ethanol contain 21.1 MJ, a liter of methanol 15.8 MJ and a
liter of gasoline approximately 32.6 MJ. In other words, for the same
energy content as one liter or one gallon of gasoline, one needs 1.6
liters/gallons of ethanol and 2.1 liters/gallons of methanol.

The one to watch is butanol -- the 4-carbon alcohol.  This one has energy
density similar to gasoline and easier storage/transport.  The biofuels
guys are working now on conventional or enzymatic cracking techniques to
take ethanol to butanol.

Don


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 10:03 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> The only engine I have trouble starting in the spring is the roto-tiller.
> I have to remove the air filter and spray gas in order to get it started. I
> then run it on 1/2 choke for about 5 minutes. Then it does run but sounds
> lean. One of these days I will have to remove the carb and clean it out.
>
> The mower, snowblower and power washer seem to be fine.
>
> I use stable in every engine when in storage.
>
> Starting 2 years ago, I started running  alcohol free gas in all 3
> Triumphs. I hope it stays available.
>
> No problems starting or running in the spring after at least a 6 month nap.
>
> Stabil is also used in the cars.
>
> The problem I have heard about alcohol is it will cause problems with the
> engine internal alloy parts.
>
> Not sure what is true.
>
> Another thing I have heard is that alcohol does not pack as much punch as
> gas. But if that is so, why do some dragsters use 100% alcohol?
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:35:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Q <hdrider570@att.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have several TR's that I have been running on ethanol mix fuel for quite a few years here in California.  There is no doubt that this fuel damages rubber components.  The Sate government said that it would not effect anything built after the late 70's when it was first introduced but I have had several newer fuel lines develop pin holes.  If you happen to have some older fuel lines laying around the garage you will notice that the part numbers keep changing as they modify the materials.

My latest "find" was the overflow line in a 1976 TR7.  It was completely wasted.  Fuel would pour out of it under no pressure other than gravity from the inch of fuel above the line.  The 1981 TR7 had the same problem when I bought it last year.

Generally I replace all the rubber components on any car that I buy and have been doing so for years.  Once that is done I have not had any issues other than reduced power/mileage due to the lower BTU content per gallon.

All of my cars have been converted to use unleaded fuelor were built to run on unleaded fuel.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 11:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
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I've been told by folks in the industry that butanol also does not attack 
the rubber components in the fuel system the way ethanol does.

But will it be economically viable?  Ethanol is on the cusp.  Further 
processing suggest that butanol will not be.

Dave

In a message dated 6/12/2013 9:28:11 AM Central Daylight Time, 
don.hiscock@gmail.com writes: 
> From Wikipedia:
> One liter of ethanol contain 21.1 MJ, a liter of methanol 15.8 MJ and a
> liter of gasoline approximately 32.6 MJ. In other words, for the same
> energy content as one liter or one gallon of gasoline, one needs 1.6
> liters/gallons of ethanol and 2.1 liters/gallons of methanol.
> 
> The one to watch is butanol -- the 4-carbon alcohol.  This one has energy
> density similar to gasoline and easier storage/transport.  The biofuels
> guys are working now on conventional or enzymatic cracking techniques to
> take ethanol to butanol.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 12:20:01 -0400
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
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I don't want to turn this into a political discussion (and won't participate
if it does) but I don't see how anything as heavily subsidized by the
government as ethanol fuel production in this country is, could be viewed as
anywhere near the cusp of economic viability.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 12, 2013, at 11:38 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:

> I've been told by folks in the industry that butanol also does not attack
> the rubber components in the fuel system the way ethanol does.
>
> But will it be economically viable?  Ethanol is on the cusp.  Further
> processing suggest that butanol will not be.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/12/2013 9:28:11 AM Central Daylight Time,
> don.hiscock@gmail.com writes:
>> From Wikipedia:
>> One liter of ethanol contain 21.1 MJ, a liter of methanol 15.8 MJ and a
>> liter of gasoline approximately 32.6 MJ. In other words, for the same
>> energy content as one liter or one gallon of gasoline, one needs 1.6
>> liters/gallons of ethanol and 2.1 liters/gallons of methanol.
>>
>> The one to watch is butanol -- the 4-carbon alcohol.  This one has energy
>> density similar to gasoline and easier storage/transport.  The biofuels
>> guys are working now on conventional or enzymatic cracking techniques to
>> take ethanol to butanol.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 12:44:29 -0400
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, yes I'm told too (by a friend who's a CEO of a corn ethanol company)
that biobutanol will be handled exactly like gasoline.  We were having a
drink the other day as my TR3B was parked on the street in front of us, and
he pointed to my car noting that butanol would be indistinguishable from
gasoline in it.

One of the other developments underway is cellulosic butanol at some point,
too..  DuPont and BP have a venture that is ready to break ground on an
ethanol/biobutanol plant from corn stover.

More from Wikipedia on butanol fuel (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanol_fuel).  In theory, about a 10%
consumption hit for butanol.

Gasoline:
Fuel energy density  32 MJ/L
RON  9199
MON  8189

Butanol fuel
Fuel energy density  29 MJ/L
RON  96
MON  78

Don
(who doesn't care about the politics at all in this discussion -- just the
technology)


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 11:38 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> I've been told by folks in the industry that butanol also does not attack
> the rubber components in the fuel system the way ethanol does.
>
> But will it be economically viable?  Ethanol is on the cusp.  Further
> processing suggest that butanol will not be.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/12/2013 9:28:11 AM Central Daylight Time,
> don.hiscock@gmail.com writes:
> > From Wikipedia:
> > One liter of ethanol contain 21.1 MJ, a liter of methanol 15.8 MJ and a
> > liter of gasoline approximately 32.6 MJ. In other words, for the same
> > energy content as one liter or one gallon of gasoline, one needs 1.6
> > liters/gallons of ethanol and 2.1 liters/gallons of methanol.
> >
> > The one to watch is butanol -- the 4-carbon alcohol.  This one has energy
> > density similar to gasoline and easier storage/transport.  The biofuels
> > guys are working now on conventional or enzymatic cracking techniques to
> > take ethanol to butanol.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
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Is it possible that the different formulations from state to state has some
influence on the variety of experiences people seem to be having? California
is always blaming the "special" formulations for the inability to import gas
from other states, keeping supplies down and prices up. Maybe we're getting
something for the premium price? Just wondering. BTW, I don't seem to be
having any problems and my TR and truck could sit for a month without being
used and a lot longer without adding fresh gas.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:54 AM
To: Dave1massey@cs.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: problem gas?

I have the same experience, car sits all winter with the gas that remained
from the fall and fires up and runs fine at first spring start.
Are you sure it's the gas?

JVV

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:15 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: problem gas?

Interesting.  My cars sit for months at a time and fire right up.  No
issues.  My chipper/shredder sits for sit to nine months and fires
reluctantly but runs fine once started.

Are you sure it's the gas?

Dave

In a message dated 6/11/2013 4:17:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
tr6.guy@verizon.net writes:
> I don't think they are.  If my cars sit for more than a few weeks, 
> they run horribly without treatment.  Same for the mower and snow 
> blower.  I've resorted to using Techron or SeaFoam to keep the systems 
> clean.  PIA gas!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 11:35:24 2013
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 12:29:47 -0500
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
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It's true that Alcohol (Ethanol) does not have the "energy density" 
of gasoline, and if you have a fuel injected car you generally get 
somewhat worse mileage out of 10% ethanol fuel than out of straight 
gas.  Dragsters run a much richer mixture with alcohol (Methanol) 
(and crazy compression ratios).  Top Fuel dragsters run 90% 
nitromethane and there's enough oxygen in the nitro that they can run 
mixtures rich enough that if combustion doesn't occur they'll 
sometimes blow up because they hydro-lock.  THAT's some crazy stuff.

Tony Drews

At 09:03 AM 6/12/2013, Bob Labuz wrote:
>Another thing I have heard is that alcohol does not pack as much 
>punch as gas. But if that is so, why do some dragsters use 100% alcohol?
>
>Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: [TR] ethanol in gasoline
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To the list
The discussion of ethanol and its impact on fuel systems makes me think of a
problem with my 1976 TR6 that I will have to deal with shortly.  I keep it at
another location and when I was there a week or so ago, I smelled a strong
gasoline odor.  I have had a problem with the gaskets in the carb float
chambers deteriorating and leaking gas so I guessed that was probably the
case.  Unfortunately I passed by the car a little later and saw a puddle of
what looked like heavy oil near the left rear tire.  I touched it and it had a
strong gasoline smell.  I was otherwise occupied and when I got back the next
day, the puddle remained but there is no longer a gasoline odor.
Unfortunately, I had to leave before I could investigate the situation.  My
fear is that the fuel lines have deteriorated allowing gas to drip onto the
ground, carrying something with it on the trip, probably dissolved
undercoating.  I don't know of anything else that would be in the rear of the
car that could leak other than the differential, but I don't know of any
reason that a leaking fuel line would cause it to leak as well.  There was
distinctly a strong gasoline odor to this substance.  I won't get back for a
couple of weeks, but does anyone have any ideas as to what I should consider
as possibilities.  Just an aside, the car is parked on a concrete floor in a
garage with no ignition source and is directly under a fire sprinkler so I
believe that the danger of fire is minimal, which is why I was comfortable
waiting to deal with this later.
David Gill
1976 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 13:23:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] ethanol in gasoline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

seems my post on this topic never made it, so ill resend.
 
I wonder what kind
of rubber we are getting from china. we wont/cant pay for domestic parts when
built in small quantities and new old stock rubber is well on its way in its
life cycle.
 
here in Temecula California I live in desert conditions. peek
summer temperatures can get to 115 ambient and substantially greater from heat
soaked areas like the pavement and buildings.
 
there is one outlet in town
that still sells fully leaded 112 octane gas. it runs about 14.00 a gallon.
for off road use as "race fuel" only. no ethanol. because I don't do that many
miles I was running the TR3 on it until the local laws caught up with me. one
must now produce a race license to be able to buy the fuel. no race license
here so no more leaded gas for me.
I was able to run leaded fuel for over a
year. I do not see any noticeable performance or degrading rubber difference
on running California unleaded to the leaded gas I was using before.
 
 
I
cant recall the last time my modern day car would not start. but I do recall
the days back in the UK when coming out of the house and hoping the car would
start to get me to work on time. I recall lots of issues that caused my car
not to start. including the fact I did little maintenance because I was poor.
I also recall the diaphragms on the ZS carbs where a constant source of
failure. they would fail about every 12 months as I recall now.
 
I help
maintain 2 friends Triumphs here in Temecula. 2-TR3's and a TR6. had them on
the road about 4 years now.
we have had a few issues that in hindsight could
well have been the same problems we had 40 years ago. so I find it hard to say
modern fuel is hurting my rubber parts.   

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 14:41:08 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:27:57 -0400 (EDT)
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
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As if the petroleum industry isn't subsidized...

My reference was in Energy sustainability.  The energy put into making the 
ethanol is either a little more or a little less than the energy you get out 
of it depending on what study you look at.

Dave

In a message dated 6/12/2013 11:20:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
McGaheyRx@aol.com writes: 
> I don't want to turn this into a political discussion (and won't 
> participate if it does) but I don't see how anything as heavily subsidized by the 
> government as ethanol fuel production in this country is, could be viewed as 
> anywhere near the cusp of economic viability.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
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----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave1massey@cs.com
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 3:27:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
> As if the petroleum industry isn't subsidized...
> 
> My reference was in Energy sustainability. The energy put into making
> the
> ethanol is either a little more or a little less than the energy you
> get out
> of it depending on what study you look at.

Study, Schmudy.  If you can't run the plant on ethanol, it's a scam.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Butanol looks promising but I think his statement is a bit over optimistic. 
 The wiki article specifies a 14.6:a A/F ratio for gasoline and 11.1:1 for 
Butanol.  The car will run but it will be a bit lean.

For alcohol fuels to be viable economically they will have to develop 
techniques to use cellulosic materials rather than just corn syrup.  As a friend 
of mine says, extracting hydrocarbons from cellulose is like trying to 
extract cement back out of concrete.  It can be done but it takes a lot more 
capital investment.  

Dave (staying technical)



In a message dated 6/12/2013 11:44:59 AM Central Daylight Time, 
don.hiscock@gmail.com writes: 
> Dave, yes I'm told too (by a friend who's a CEO of a corn ethanol 
> company)
> that biobutanol will be handled exactly like gasoline.  We were having a
> drink the other day as my TR3B was parked on the street in front of us, 
> and
> he pointed to my car noting that butanol would be indistinguishable from
> gasoline in it.
> 
> One of the other developments underway is cellulosic butanol at some 
> point,
> too..  DuPont and BP have a venture that is ready to break ground on an
> ethanol/biobutanol plant from corn stover.
> 
> More from Wikipedia on butanol fuel (
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanol_fuel).  In theory, about a 10%
> consumption hit for butanol.
> 
> Gasoline:
> Fuel energy density  32 MJ/L
> RON  9199
> 
> MON  8189
> 
> Butanol fuel
> Fuel energy density  29 MJ/L
> RON  96
> MON  78
> 
> Don

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 14:55:49 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:48:00 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Ethanol or no, the evaporative control system has a lot to do with how long 
the gas stays usable.  I've started a TR6 that had sat for three years on 
the gas that was in the tank.  Let gas sit in a vented tank (eg: TR3) that 
long and you will have a real mess.

Dave

In a message dated 6/12/2013 12:10:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
kinderlehrer@comcast.net writes: 
> Is it possible that the different formulations from state to state has 
> some
> influence on the variety of experiences people seem to be having? 
> California
> is always blaming the "special" formulations for the inability to import 
> gas
> from other states, keeping supplies down and prices up. Maybe we're 
> getting
> something for the premium price? Just wondering. BTW, I don't seem to be
> having any problems and my TR and truck could sit for a month without 
> being
> used and a lot longer without adding fresh gas.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 15:09:43 2013
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References: <37677.b43cdcd.3eea3780@cs.com>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:59:50 -0400
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yup, we're going to have to richen our mixtures.  Maybe find some new
needle setup, too, when butanol comes.

Cellulosic ethanol (or butanol now, I guess) has been a biofuels dream for
many years.  Lots of work on the subject by university and industrial
researchers.  The fact that DuPont and BP feel they're getting close means
at least a little bit -- those guys aren't complete idiots at technology
and making products.  (Having worked for DD for over twenty years, the
company's abilities aren't completely unknown to me).

At the same time, it's not trivial, as you say, Dave.  Nature created
starch to be an energy store for the emerging seed, and it's rapidly broken
down into things that provide energy as a result.  Nature created cellulose
to be a durable, load-bearing element in plants.  The simple change from
alpha-linked anhydroglucose units to beta-linked makes all the difference
in the world, and turns the polysaccharide into a structural polymer.  It's
a good thing, too.  If the cellulose in trees were subject to ready
enzymatic degradation, my back yard would be a mess.

One to watch.  There's enough effort being applied to this that some sort
of *technical* success is likely.



On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 4:43 PM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> Butanol looks promising but I think his statement is a bit over optimistic.
>  The wiki article specifies a 14.6:a A/F ratio for gasoline and 11.1:1 for
> Butanol.  The car will run but it will be a bit lean.
>
> For alcohol fuels to be viable economically they will have to develop
> techniques to use cellulosic materials rather than just corn syrup.  As a
> friend
> of mine says, extracting hydrocarbons from cellulose is like trying to
> extract cement back out of concrete.  It can be done but it takes a lot
> more
> capital investment.
>
> Dave (staying technical)
>
>
>
> In a message dated 6/12/2013 11:44:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
> don.hiscock@gmail.com writes:
> > Dave, yes I'm told too (by a friend who's a CEO of a corn ethanol
> > company)
> > that biobutanol will be handled exactly like gasoline.  We were having a
> > drink the other day as my TR3B was parked on the street in front of us,
> > and
> > he pointed to my car noting that butanol would be indistinguishable from
> > gasoline in it.
> >
> > One of the other developments underway is cellulosic butanol at some
> > point,
> > too..  DuPont and BP have a venture that is ready to break ground on an
> > ethanol/biobutanol plant from corn stover.
> >
> > More from Wikipedia on butanol fuel (
> > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanol_fuel).  In theory, about a 10%
> > consumption hit for butanol.
> >
> > Gasoline:
> > Fuel energy density  32 MJ/L
> > RON  91 99
> >
> > MON  81 89
> >
> > Butanol fuel
> > Fuel energy density  29 MJ/L
> > RON  96
> > MON  78
> >
> > Don
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 15:10:20 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:00:15 -0400 (EDT)
To: pethier@comcast.net
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Well, Phil, do they run these plants off of gasoline?  Ethanol is a 
gasoline substitute not a coal or natural gas substitute.

Actually, ethanol is mostly an oxygenating agent for smog reduction and 
doesn't show up in ground water like MTBE.

Dave

In a message dated 6/12/2013 3:41:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier@comcast.net writes: 
> >My reference was in Energy sustainability. The energy put into making
> >the
> >ethanol is either a little more or a little less than the energy you
> >get out
> >of it depending on what study you look at.
> 
> Study, Schmudy.  If you can't run the plant on ethanol, it's a scam.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 12 16:10:14 2013
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Apparently, the contents of gasohol has been known to destroy plastic floats.  There is a benzene component I am told that does it.  I know there is a new closed cell foam float for some cars, indestructible by the new stuff, that's available.
I've got brass floats in all my cars, so I've no first hand knowledge.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: davgil@aol.com
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] ethanol in gasoline
Date: Wed, Jun 12, 2013 2:38 pm


To the list
The discussion of ethanol and its impact on fuel systems makes me think of a
problem with my 1976 TR6 that I will have to deal with shortly.  I keep it at
another location and when I was there a week or so ago, I smelled a strong
gasoline odor.  I have had a problem with the gaskets in the carb float
chambers deteriorating and leaking gas so I guessed that was probably the
case.  Unfortunately I passed by the car a little later and saw a puddle of
what looked like heavy oil near the left rear tire.  I touched it and it had a
strong gasoline smell.  I was otherwise occupied and when I got back the next
day, the puddle remained but there is no longer a gasoline odor.
Unfortunately, I had to leave before I could investigate the situation.  My
fear is that the fuel lines have deteriorated allowing gas to drip onto the
ground, carrying something with it on the trip, probably dissolved
undercoating.  I don't know of anything else that would be in the rear of the
car that could leak other than the differential, but I don't know of any
reason that a leaking fuel line would cause it to leak as well.  There was
distinctly a strong gasoline odor to this substance.  I won't get back for a
couple of weeks, but does anyone have any ideas as to what I should consider
as possibilities.  Just an aside, the car is parked on a concrete floor in a
garage with no ignition source and is directly under a fire sprinkler so I
believe that the danger of fire is minimal, which is why I was comfortable
waiting to deal with this later.
David Gill
1976 TR6

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Burn the food, drive your car while prices for food soar. 
Makes sense.
Why not use wind or solar?
They're eternally "on the cusp" of viability....
Why not use...gasp!.....the most energy dense stuff we have in quantity to run cars?
BTW, the RON of modern fuels is not bad.  The 91-93 octane alkygas has an effective RON of about 97-98, so all is not lost.
The UK and Europe use different methods to figure octane, so if you're there you'll have to figure it out.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] problem gas?
Date: Wed, Jun 12, 2013 3:27 pm


As if the petroleum industry isn't subsidized...

My reference was in Energy sustainability.  The energy put into making the 
ethanol is either a little more or a little less than the energy you get out 
of it depending on what study you look at.

Dave

In a message dated 6/12/2013 11:20:02 AM Central Daylight Time, 
McGaheyRx@aol.com writes: 
> I don't want to turn this into a political discussion (and won't 
> participate if it does) but I don't see how anything as heavily subsidized by the 
> government as ethanol fuel production in this country is, could be viewed as 
> anywhere near the cusp of economic viability.

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:26:36 -0400
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 60 TR3A overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The overdrive on my 1960 TR3A has been engaging slower & slower.  Today on the
way home from work, it would not engage, so I just turned it off and drove
home.

I am naive about the overdrive, other than using it over the years.  What
should I check first???  I have a 4 years old Dan Masters electrical system
which works fine so I am reasonably sure that is not the problem.

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu


http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html



John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:52:54 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 60 TR3A overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John -

Very first thing I would check is the oil level in the gearbox/OD.

Geo


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 2:26 PM, John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com> wrote:

> The overdrive on my 1960 TR3A has been engaging slower & slower.  Today on
> the
> way home from work, it would not engage, so I just turned it off and drove
> home.
>
> I am naive about the overdrive, other than using it over the years.  What
> should I check first???  I have a 4 years old Dan Masters electrical system
> which works fine so I am reasonably sure that is not the problem.
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
> The Wise Group, LLC
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu
>
>
> http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html
>
>
>
> John Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 TR3A
> http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
> http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:21:34 -0500
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been running unleaded ethanol mid-grade in the ' 58 TR3 for for the
5,000 miles that it has been back on the road.  Never a problem, car always
starts and runs smooth, not unusual for a tank of fuel to be 2-3 months old.

I tend to agree with Jonmac's comments that the new fuel is cleaning off some
heretofore untouched crud that is contaminating the system.  With the original
fuel pump and SU carbs my system may not be a sensitive as some of you with
more modern cars or components.

Just another thought....

Bill B

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 12, 2013, at 3:48 PM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:

> Ethanol or no, the evaporative control system has a lot to do with how long
> the gas stays usable.  I've started a TR6 that had sat for three years on
> the gas that was in the tank.  Let gas sit in a vented tank (eg: TR3) that
> long and you will have a real mess.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/12/2013 12:10:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
> kinderlehrer@comcast.net writes:
>> Is it possible that the different formulations from state to state has
>> some
>> influence on the variety of experiences people seem to be having?
>> California
>> is always blaming the "special" formulations for the inability to import
>> gas
>> from other states, keeping supplies down and prices up. Maybe we're
>> getting
>> something for the premium price? Just wondering. BTW, I don't seem to be
>> having any problems and my TR and truck could sit for a month without
>> being
>> used and a lot longer without adding fresh gas.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:52:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have to throw my two cents in even though I did not want to:


1.)  We heard this story about unleaded gas, not an issue.
2.)  We heard this story about zinc in the oil, maybe an issue, resolved with additive or Brad Penn.  My emails to the list with oil analysis proves it.  I am using Brad Penn.
3.)  TRF is selling Lucas gas treatment.


So, I posed a question to the list about the difference between Stabil and Lucas gas treatment.  Never got a response.  I treat each fill up with Lucas from TRF, and I use Stabil in the winter in the TR and all engines in the garage.  Run all dry except for the TR.  Don't shake the TR, don't drain any gas, don't do squat.  I use high test fuel from Shell and it is 10% Ethanol.


I replaced all rubber fuel lines with Ethanol proof from Moss.  I have seen no issue with carbs, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel separation, or any of the issues described.
 
The TR can sit for months, pull the choke, never put any charge on the Optima battery, I have a disconnect connector on it that I use in the winter.  Turn the key, fires up, drives like it is summer.


>From my side of the pond, this issue is not an issue for me.


Just one TR owners opinion.


Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6

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Subject: Re: [TR] 60 TR3A overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

First check the oil level in the transmission.  That's the way mine behaves
when it gets low.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 12, 2013 5:55 pm
Subject: [TR] 60 TR3A overdrive


The overdrive on my 1960 TR3A has been engaging slower & slower.  Today on
the
way home from work, it would not engage, so I just turned it off and drove
home.

I am naive about the overdrive, other than using it over the years.  What
should I check first???  I have a 4 years old Dan Masters electrical system
which works fine so I am reasonably sure that is not the problem.

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu


http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html



John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2013 21:40:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Craig, I have a number of vehicles, the Triumph sits quite some 
time in winter, I will go out and start it to circulate fluids on a day when 
it gets up to 40F or so, so it probably doesn't sit for more than two 
months, but never a gas problem, I don't generally put ethanol in the 
Triumph, but have done it on occasion when I have needed gas and end up at 
some station that doesn't have premium without ethanol.

I do sometimes put ethanol (10%) in the lawn mower, it sits about five 
months, I never drain the tank, or put any additive in it for the five month 
hibernation for winter.  It starts up and runs fine every spring, or at 
least has so far for the 3 or so lawn mower and 25 years or so of my home 
ownership in my adult life.

I will add that my midwestern farm state heavily subsidizes ethanol, but it 
is labeled, and generally you have regular, at about 87 octane rating, 
mid-grade, with 10% ethanol, usually 89 octane, clearly labeled, and 10-15 
cents a gallon cheaper than regular, and premium usually 91 octane, and 
about 20-30 cents more than regular.

I do like having a choice and having it labeled though.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: <thenicholls@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 8:52 PM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  problem gas?

> Have to throw my two cents in even though I did not want to:
>
>
> 1.)  We heard this story about unleaded gas, not an issue.
> 2.)  We heard this story about zinc in the oil, maybe an issue, resolved 
> with additive or Brad Penn.  My emails to the list with oil analysis 
> proves it.  I am using Brad Penn.
> 3.)  TRF is selling Lucas gas treatment.
>
>
> So, I posed a question to the list about the difference between Stabil and 
> Lucas gas treatment.  Never got a response.  I treat each fill up with 
> Lucas from TRF, and I use Stabil in the winter in the TR and all engines 
> in the garage.  Run all dry except for the TR.  Don't shake the TR, don't 
> drain any gas, don't do squat.  I use high test fuel from Shell and it is 
> 10% Ethanol.
>
>
> I replaced all rubber fuel lines with Ethanol proof from Moss.  I have 
> seen no issue with carbs, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel separation, or any 
> of the issues described.
>
> The TR can sit for months, pull the choke, never put any charge on the 
> Optima battery, I have a disconnect connector on it that I use in the 
> winter.  Turn the key, fires up, drives like it is summer.
>
>
> From my side of the pond, this issue is not an issue for me.
>
>
> Just one TR owners opinion.
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:13:02 -0400
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil.  My plan is to drain & refill it.

I looked at my records and found 3 different brands/weights over the past 10
or so years.  The same goes true on the recommendations that I have recorded
from the time the car was living in Phoenix.

What is the current wisdom for tranny/overdrive oil in a car that will likely
be staying  Florida??

Thanks in advance

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 07:04:01 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'John Wise'" <tr3a.60@gmail.com>, "'car discussion Sports Triumph'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <AB1B29F8-8C65-4B40-BCD5-5A498DA8087F@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:54:28 -0400
Thread-Index: AQE/zvHQclfa++TkOY93R/oveursY5pQzDfw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Castrol GTX 20/50 in engine and gearbox.  

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 8:13 AM
To: car discussion Sports Triumph
Subject: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil.  My plan is to drain & refill it.

I looked at my records and found 3 different brands/weights over the past 10
or so years.  The same goes true on the recommendations that I have recorded
from the time the car was living in Phoenix.

What is the current wisdom for tranny/overdrive oil in a car that will
likely be staying  Florida??

Thanks in advance

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 07:04:38 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 12:58:52 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
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Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Redline MT90 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 10:44:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'tr3a.60@gmail.com'" <tr3a.60@gmail.com>,  'car discussion Sports
	Triumph' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For me it's:

Castrol 20/50 in engine
Valvoline 20/50 racing in transmission

Mark
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Wise
Sent: June-13-13 8:13 AM
To: car discussion Sports Triumph
Subject: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil.  My plan is to drain & refill it.

I looked at my records and found 3 different brands/weights over the past 10
or so years.  The same goes true on the recommendations that I have recorded
from the time the car was living in Phoenix.

What is the current wisdom for tranny/overdrive oil in a car that will likely
be staying  Florida??

Thanks in advance

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 09:08:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 10:03:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed before)
 
Carl



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 06/13/13, John Wise 
wrote:

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil. My plan is to drain & refill it.

I looked at my records and found 3 different brands/weights over the past 10
or so years. The same goes true on the recommendations that I have recorded
from the time the car was living in Phoenix.

What is the current wisdom for tranny/overdrive oil in a car that will likely
be staying Florida??

Thanks in advance

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 11:40:12 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 12:22:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I use 80-90 or something of that ilk.  always full synthetic.  in dallas, tx

redline for the tranny, anything else (full synthetic) for the diff

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 10:03 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid

Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and 
didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed before)

Carl



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 06/13/13, John Wise
wrote:

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil. My plan is to drain & refill it.

I looked at my records and found 3 different brands/weights over the past 10
or so years. The same goes true on the recommendations that I have recorded
from the time the car was living in Phoenix.

What is the current wisdom for tranny/overdrive oil in a car that will 
likely
be staying Florida??

Thanks in advance

John 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 11:40:55 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <AB1B29F8-8C65-4B40-BCD5-5A498DA8087F@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 12:25:03 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

one of the wisest things I ever heard:  be sure you can open the "add" plug 
before you open the drain plug

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Wise
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2013 7:13 AM
To: car discussion Sports Triumph
Subject: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive oil

First thanks for everyone confirming my hypothesis of the tranny/overdrive
needing some oil.  My plan is to drain & refill it. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 13 18:35:36 2013
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Full-name: Catpusher
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 19:24:42 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1371165883;
	bh=yh6k60W0Y1yaNjanV8pZC+cPjZl5rFNy6IHfzYewWJE=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] Subject:  60 TR3A overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Please keep in mind that the oil pressure that operates the OD also  
lubricates it.
An OD pressure gauge does wonders.  If the solenoid adjustment  slowly 
slips, the same sequence will occur.  Redline Gear oil.
 
TR Regards,
 
Hardy
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: John Wise  <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jun 12, 2013 5:55 pm
Subject:  [TR] 60 TR3A overdrive


The overdrive on my 1960 TR3A has been  engaging slower & slower.  Today on
the
way home from work, it  would not engage, so I just turned it off and drove
home.

I am naive  about the overdrive, other than using it over the years.  What
should  I check first???  I have a 4 years old Dan Masters electrical  
system
which works fine so I am reasonably sure that is not the  problem.

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group,  LLC
Ormond Beach,  FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2013 21:44:39 -0700
thread-index: Ac5oRyyRw+M5lAKERfunSQRPvU+bBgAclNsg
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
> didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed before)

I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff since about 1985.  Works
great.

Redline MT-90 in the gearbox/OD (both A & J).

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 01:18:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Has anybody else fitted one of these????

I purchased one a long time
ago but it leaked on installation and was replaced. I didn't get round to a
second attempt but my garage attempted to fit the second one and it leaked
too.

Anybody else had any luck with it???

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 05:02:36 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Where is it leaking?  I got one second hand (about twenty years ago) and the
bolt was too long.  I think there is a piece missing.  A piece that works with
an O-ring or two to seal off the bolt.  In a pinch I stacked up a couple of
washers slathered with gasket sealer and bolted it on.  It didn't so much as
leak as it weeped.  More recently I bought a small bag of sealing washers
(http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=n79sn1) to do it up right.
Turns out the bolt was still too long (missing part) so I found a tight
fitting flat washer and between that and two sealing washers I got a good fit.
It works so well that the bolt head is now rusty.

If your leak is where the body fits into the annular seal check the sealing
ring.  A perennial problem here is too many rings.  An old ring may still be
in there and not sealing well.  Also the casting may not be true in which case
it will never seal.  This would qualify as a defective part.

I love my conversion.  I get oil pressure much more quickly upon startup and
changing filters is a little less messy.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>


Hi,

Has anybody else fitted one of these????

I purchased one a long time
ago but it leaked on installation and was replaced. I didn't get round to a
second attempt but my garage attempted to fit the second one and it leaked
too.

Anybody else had any luck with it???

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 05:45:46 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
	<17F439E591FE48F0AC8CA801EB1C6E53@Meislaptop>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2013 07:35:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

recently acquired this car.

when I got it the parking lights stayed on.  that's why there was a battery 
cut off switch!  I turned on the headlights; they work.  by just 
pulling/pushing on the switch a few times over a period of days I managed to 
get them to turn off.

finally had to use the lights, and now they are stuck on again.  I'm so 
surprised haha.

I'm guessing itbs the switch.  anyone btdt have a suggestion?  pull the 
switch and clean it - do they come apart?

thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 05:49:56 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 07:48:03 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the conversion as well - and had the leaking occur after the first
filter change.  Turns out  I can't seem to keep the adaptor from wanting to
unscrew before the filter and I kinked the oring during removal and
reinstall.   I put in a new oring and it's all good, but replacing the oil
filter is currently a two handed affair - holding the adaptor while
unscrewing the filter -  though not optimal - still way easier than the
million turn bolt of the old filter.

I've tried locktite on the central adaptor bolt.  I think the heat of the
engine renders it useless. I cranked it down pretty well, too.

I don't want to do it, but maybe I pull it down, clean everything, and use
a hardening gasket sealer on the oring and basically glue the thing down.

Any other suggestions?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 06:38:39 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:36:18 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
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To: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 6/15/2013 2:18 AM, Alex Cherington wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Has anybody else fitted one of these????
>
> I purchased one a long time
> ago but it leaked on installation and was replaced. I didn't get round to a
> second attempt but my garage attempted to fit the second one and it leaked
> too.
>
>

Note that the original canister will slide on the center stud until it 
contacts the square-section o-ring, and the internal spring keeps the 
filter element pressed against the land which has the output from the 
oil pump. That the canister and element can move independently pretty 
much eliminates the chances of leakage with proper installation.

Now, with the one-piece casting of the adapter, those two different 
lands (for the center stop and the o-ring) have to be accommodated at 
once.  The annoyance--and leakage--occurs because the lands were not 
uniformly machined together at the factory, because there was no need 
for their relationship to be consistent, with the original design.  In 
relation to the adapter casting, if the center land of the block is too 
deep, the outer o-ring flange will seal, but the internal land will not, 
and the adaptor will allow oil to bypass the filter (and the adapter 
will wiggle on the outer o-ring and the center bolt will eventually work 
loose).  If the center land of the block stands too tall, the adapter 
will seal properly internally, but the o-ring flange will not apply 
enough pressure to the outer o-ring, and that will leak.

Essentially, this means the adapter has to be fitted to the individual 
block.  If the o-ring land in the block is too shallow, the o-ring 
flange on the adapter has to be machined down slightly. If the o-ring 
land in the block is too deep, some of the center land of the adapter 
has to removed.  Mocal adapters come with instructions for fitting and 
include a little modeling clay to help with determining the fit at the 
adapter center.   I've written about this before, so there should be 
more in the archives.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 05:38:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,
 
 
 
 
 
 
I have never attempted to fit it myself as I now recall both
attempts were by different garages at oil change time. I thought it would be a
2 minute job to fit.
 
 
I looked at the unit for the first time in about 8
years today...lol... and there is a small o-ring in the middle. Does it also
need a large o-ring at the engine end where the old filter bowl would
currently seal???  I think that is MIA at present.
 
 
Seems a bit
temperamental.
 

From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, 15 June 2013, 11:59
Subject: Re: [TR]
Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion


Where is it leaking?  I got one
second hand (about twenty years ago) and the
bolt was too long.  I think there
is a piece missing.  A piece that works with
an O-ring or two to seal off the
bolt.  In a pinch I stacked up a couple of
washers slathered with gasket
sealer and bolted it on.  It didn't so much as
leak as it weeped.  More
recently I bought a small bag of sealing washers
(http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=n79sn1) to do it up right.
Turns out the bolt was still too long (missing part) so I found a tight
fitting flat washer and between that and two sealing washers I got a good fit.
It works so well that the bolt head is now rusty.

If your leak is where the
body fits into the annular seal check the sealing
ring.  A perennial problem
here is too many rings.  An old ring may still be
in there and not sealing
well.  Also the casting may not be true in which case
it will never seal. 
This would qualify as a defective part.

I love my conversion.  I get oil
pressure much more quickly upon startup and
changing filters is a little less
messy.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Cherington
<a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>


Hi,

Has anybody else fitted one of these????
I purchased one a long time
ago but it leaked on installation and was
replaced. I didn't get round to a
second attempt but my garage attempted to
fit the second one and it leaked
too.

Anybody else had any luck with it???
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 06:45:56 2013
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 7:40:45 -0500
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My suggestion if it is a reproduction switch is to pitch it and find an
original on eBay or a swap meet or local club.  I bought a reproduction switch
it was a POS.

As I recall (most of my fiddling was long ago on the road, late at night after
a long day) they are riveted together, you can mess with bending the
contacts.

Greg Lemon

---- Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> recently acquired this car.
>
> when I got it the parking lights stayed on.  that's why there was a battery
> cut off switch!  I turned on the headlights; they work.  by just
> pulling/pushing on the switch a few times over a period of days I managed to
> get them to turn off.
>
> finally had to use the lights, and now they are stuck on again.  I'm so
> surprised haha.
>
> I'm guessing itbs the switch.  anyone btdt have a suggestion?  pull the
> switch and clean it - do they come apart?
>
> thanks!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 07:38:13 2013
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	<1371299929.86290.YahooMailNeo@web141202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 06:35:41 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Perhaps I've been lucky, but I've installed two w/o leaks.

In one case I removed 3 old seals that were jammed in the filter head.
Used Loctite on the threads.  Lubed all the seals.  Tighten the bejeezus
out of the unit, then hand-tightened the spin-on filter.

Here are the instructions from one of mine (they were both MOCAL from Moss)
in case it is of use:

http://tinyurl.com/mq4tx5a

Geo


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 5:38 AM, Alex Cherington <
a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have never attempted to fit it myself as I now recall both
> attempts were by different garages at oil change time. I thought it would
> be a
> 2 minute job to fit.
>
>
> I looked at the unit for the first time in about 8
> years today...lol... and there is a small o-ring in the middle. Does it
> also
> need a large o-ring at the engine end where the old filter bowl would
> currently seal???  I think that is MIA at present.
>
>
> Seems a bit
> temperamental.
>
>
> From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
> To:
> triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, 15 June 2013, 11:59
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
>
>
> Where is it leaking?  I got one
> second hand (about twenty years ago) and the
> bolt was too long.  I think there
> is a piece missing.  A piece that works with
> an O-ring or two to seal off the
> bolt.  In a pinch I stacked up a couple of
> washers slathered with gasket
> sealer and bolted it on.  It didn't so much as
> leak as it weeped.  More
> recently I bought a small bag of sealing washers
> (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=n79sn1) to do it up
> right.
> Turns out the bolt was still too long (missing part) so I found a tight
> fitting flat washer and between that and two sealing washers I got a good
> fit.
> It works so well that the bolt head is now rusty.
>
> If your leak is where the
> body fits into the annular seal check the sealing
> ring.  A perennial problem
> here is too many rings.  An old ring may still be
> in there and not sealing
> well.  Also the casting may not be true in which case
> it will never seal.
> This would qualify as a defective part.
>
> I love my conversion.  I get oil
> pressure much more quickly upon startup and
> changing filters is a little less
> messy.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Cherington
> <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anybody else fitted one of these????
> I purchased one a long time
> ago but it leaked on installation and was
> replaced. I didn't get round to a
> second attempt but my garage attempted to
> fit the second one and it leaked
> too.
>
> Anybody else had any luck with it???
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:52:06 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5pvfwfOZxfAMdKT2e3aTnXIqdGNQADv90A
Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a similar problem, after a few miles they went off.  I just kept
working the switch and now it seems OK and gets used occasionally.  You
might try a few good shots of brake cleaner then blow it out with a
compressor.  I don't think you can get them apart and back together again
with much luck, unless you are a jeweler by trade.  If you can't get it to
work, I would replace it, the last thing you want is for your lights to go
out on a dark Texas highway.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 7:35 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] light switch TR3B

recently acquired this car.

when I got it the parking lights stayed on.  that's why there was a battery
cut off switch!  I turned on the headlights; they work.  by just
pulling/pushing on the switch a few times over a period of days I managed to
get them to turn off.

finally had to use the lights, and now they are stuck on again.  I'm so
surprised haha.

I'm guessing itbs the switch.  anyone btdt have a suggestion?  pull the
switch and clean it - do they come apart?

thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sure, it does.  Those O-rings are supplied with each OE filter cartridge.  The
adapter is machined with a feature that seals up against that O-ring.  At
least mine did.  Yours may be different.  In which case I would have to see it
to better advise.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Cherington <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>


Hi,






I have never attempted to fit it myself as I now recall both
attempts were by different garages at oil change time. I thought it would be
a
2 minute job to fit.


I looked at the unit for the first time in about 8
years today...lol... and there is a small o-ring in the middle. Does it also
need a large o-ring at the engine end where the old filter bowl would
currently seal???  I think that is MIA at present.


Seems a bit
temperamental.


From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, 15 June 2013, 11:59
Subject: Re: [TR]
Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion


Where is it leaking?  I got one
second hand (about twenty years ago) and the
bolt was too long.  I think there
is a piece missing.  A piece that works with
an O-ring or two to seal off the
bolt.  In a pinch I stacked up a couple of
washers slathered with gasket
sealer and bolted it on.  It didn't so much as
leak as it weeped.  More
recently I bought a small bag of sealing washers
(http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=n79sn1) to do it up
right.
Turns out the bolt was still too long (missing part) so I found a tight
fitting flat washer and between that and two sealing washers I got a good
fit.
It works so well that the bolt head is now rusty.

If your leak is where the
body fits into the annular seal check the sealing
ring.  A perennial problem
here is too many rings.  An old ring may still be
in there and not sealing
well.  Also the casting may not be true in which case
it will never seal.
This would qualify as a defective part.

I love my conversion.  I get oil
pressure much more quickly upon startup and
changing filters is a little less
messy.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Cherington
<a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>


Hi,

Has anybody else fitted one of these????
I purchased one a long time
ago but it leaked on installation and was
replaced. I didn't get round to a
second attempt but my garage attempted to
fit the second one and it leaked
too.

Anybody else had any luck with it???

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 12:33:22 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That is the TR3/4 adapter.  The TR6 is different.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=54777





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jun 15, 2013 8:36 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion


Perhaps I've been lucky, but I've installed two w/o leaks.

In one case I removed 3 old seals that were jammed in the filter head.
Used Loctite on the threads.  Lubed all the seals.  Tighten the bejeezus
out of the unit, then hand-tightened the spin-on filter.

Here are the instructions from one of mine (they were both MOCAL from Moss)
in case it is of use:

http://tinyurl.com/mq4tx5a

Geo


On Sat, Jun 15, 2013 at 5:38 AM, Alex Cherington <
a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have never attempted to fit it myself as I now recall both
> attempts were by different garages at oil change time. I thought it would
> be a
> 2 minute job to fit.
>
>
> I looked at the unit for the first time in about 8
> years today...lol... and there is a small o-ring in the middle. Does it
> also
> need a large o-ring at the engine end where the old filter bowl would
> currently seal???  I think that is MIA at present.
>
>
> Seems a bit
> temperamental.
>
>
> From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
> To:
> triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, 15 June 2013, 11:59
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
>
>
> Where is it leaking?  I got one
> second hand (about twenty years ago) and the
> bolt was too long.  I think there
> is a piece missing.  A piece that works with
> an O-ring or two to seal off the
> bolt.  In a pinch I stacked up a couple of
> washers slathered with gasket
> sealer and bolted it on.  It didn't so much as
> leak as it weeped.  More
> recently I bought a small bag of sealing washers
> (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sealing-washers/=n79sn1) to do it up
> right.
> Turns out the bolt was still too long (missing part) so I found a tight
> fitting flat washer and between that and two sealing washers I got a good
> fit.
> It works so well that the bolt head is now rusty.
>
> If your leak is where the
> body fits into the annular seal check the sealing
> ring.  A perennial problem
> here is too many rings.  An old ring may still be
> in there and not sealing
> well.  Also the casting may not be true in which case
> it will never seal.
> This would qualify as a defective part.
>
> I love my conversion.  I get oil
> pressure much more quickly upon startup and
> changing filters is a little less
> messy.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Cherington
> <a_flying_scotsman@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anybody else fitted one of these????
> I purchased one a long time
> ago but it leaked on installation and was
> replaced. I didn't get round to a
> second attempt but my garage attempted to
> fit the second one and it leaked
> too.
>
> Anybody else had any luck with it???

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Moss TR6 spin on oil filter conversion
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Is this a TR6 or a TR3/4 adapter?




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>


I have the conversion as well - and had the leaking occur after the first
filter change.  Turns out  I can't seem to keep the adaptor from wanting to
unscrew before the filter and I kinked the oring during removal and
reinstall.   I put in a new oring and it's all good, but replacing the oil
filter is currently a two handed affair - holding the adaptor while
unscrewing the filter -  though not optimal - still way easier than the
million turn bolt of the old filter.

I've tried locktite on the central adaptor bolt.  I think the heat of the
engine renders it useless. I cranked it down pretty well, too.

I don't want to do it, but maybe I pull it down, clean everything, and use
a hardening gasket sealer on the oring and basically glue the thing down.

Any other suggestions?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 17:09:32 2013
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From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:55:24 -0400
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overdrive recovery
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Per the wisdom of the list, I drained & then refilled the tranny oil on my 60
TR3A.  I used Valvoline 20-W-50 and now the transmission shifts in and out of
overdrive as smooth as an automatic. :-)

Thank to every one who provided the usual correct advice.

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

JohnWise@alumni.Pitt.edu


http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html



John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 15 21:27:01 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
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> when I got it the parking lights stayed on.  that's why there was a
> battery
> cut off switch!  

Apologies if this was already covered or is just too obvious.  On the TR3
headlight switch, you have to push the knob in, then turn to the left, then
push again to turn off the taillights.  Usually the little Bakelite stop is
broken, so with enough force you can just jam the knob in; but it works
better if you turn it as Lucas intended.

The original switches (at least the early ones) can be partially
disassembled, but I doubt it will do any good.  I would start by making sure
there aren't any stray wire strands shorting out, and then replace the
switch.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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May all of life's problems be so easy to solve.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: John Wise <tr3a.60@gmail.com>


Per the wisdom of the list, I drained & then refilled the tranny oil on my 60
TR3A.  I used Valvoline 20-W-50 and now the transmission shifts in and out of
overdrive as smooth as an automatic. :-)

Thank to every one who provided the usual correct advice.

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     About every 3 years my TR3A turn signal flasher starts malfunctioning. It
works fine and then one day it will work fine on the right turn signal and the
left turn signal will flash one time and stop. I have a buzzer hooked in with
the indicator light so I can hear it when the turn signal is on. Anyway, I am
on about my 5th or 6th turn signal flasher unit and wondering if anyone has an
idea what causes them to fail. A new flasher unit seems to fix it every time,
for awhile.
     I bought a new "heavy duty" flasher unit from NAPA that
looked similar, but the turn signal indicator doesn't work at all now,
although the turn signals themselves work. It probably takes too much
electricity to run or something.
     I have a new flasher on order from MOSS.
I order them two at a time now...
     TIA,


    Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 14:00:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 12:59:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I suspect that the buzzer draws too much current for the flasher. 


John
Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (being repaired
after 37 yrs ownership)
 

________________________________
 From: William
Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Sunday, June 16, 2013 3:28 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
     About every 3 years my TR3A turn signal flasher starts malfunctioning. It
works fine and then one day it will work fine on the right turn signal and the
left turn signal will flash one time and stop. I have a buzzer hooked in with
the indicator light so I can hear it when the turn signal is on. Anyway, I am
on about my 5th or 6th turn signal flasher unit and wondering if anyone has an
idea what causes them to fail. A new flasher unit seems to fix it every time,
for awhile.
     I bought a new "heavy duty" flasher unit from NAPA that
looked similar, but the turn signal indicator doesn't work at all now,
although the turn signals themselves work. It probably takes too much
electricity to run or something.
     I have a new flasher on order from MOSS.
I order them two at a time now...
     TIA,


    Bill in Tehachapi

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 14:18:34 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 13:15:43 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 12:28 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>wrote:

> About every 3 years my TR3A turn signal flasher starts malfunctioning...
> I order them two at a time now...



Bill --

I'd say something is wrong here.  I've had the same old Lucas 'Do Not Drop'
flasher for 30+ years, possibly original to the car:

http://tinyurl.com/lj5g25s

What's the detail on that buzzer?  Since that is the one non-standard
component I wonder if it is creating a load that is hard on the flasher?

Disclaimer:  I really have no idea what I'm talking about of course.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 16:27:32 2013
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:25:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I was burning out flashers before I installed the buzzer. The buzzer was
put in because I couldn't see the turn signal indicator light with the tonneau
halfway unzipped and would end up driving around with the turn signal on... I
doubt that the buzzer draws much current.
     The problem is that if I take
the buzzer out it will probably work as usual and then burn out in about 2
years again. There would be no way of knowing until then and I have already
proven that they burn out without the buzzer in the past.
     I'll check the
bulb voltages. I think that years ago I upgraded the bulbs to a brighter bulb
than the l157's or whatever they are. Maybe that is the problem.

     Bill in
Tehachapi



________________________________
 From: Geo Hahn
<ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> 
Cc: Triumphs
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 1:15 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
 


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 12:28 PM,
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

About every 3 years my TR3A turn
signal flasher starts malfunctioning...
>I order them two at a time now...
 
 
Bill --
 
I'd say something is wrong here.  I've had the same old Lucas 'Do
Not Drop' flasher for 30+ years, possibly original to the car:
 
http://tinyurl.com/lj5g25s
 
What's the detail on that buzzer?  Since that is
the one non-standard component I wonder if it is creating a load that is hard
on the flasher?
 
Disclaimer:  I really have no idea what I'm talking about of
course.
 
Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 18:58:01 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:53:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR List " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:53:29 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5q9OWdAtiemJf0Ruexn7jeeo9YtQ==
Content-language: en-us
Expiry-date: Sat, 14 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Moss site
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is anyone else having issues with the Moss Motors site?   Trying to add
items to a wishlist and it just goes to a blank screen.  Happened on a
search as well.

Just curious 

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 19:52:25 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:50:56 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

Can anyone point me to a source for a reliable, quality brake light switch for
a TR4A.
I just went through a second, plastic, POS switch and DO NOT want to buy
another one.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 20:23:16 2013
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <38DEA8CC-D951-4A9D-9B1F-45D280209607@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 22:21:32 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5q/S8cfYd9648eSwqYzXh29ypsKAAAyK5A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Guy;

The only thing that really matters is the diameter and pitch of the threaded
fitting. Take your old one to your local parts house and ask the clerk to
fix you up with a good metal brake switch.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:51 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch

Listers,

Can anyone point me to a source for a reliable, quality brake light switch
for a TR4A.
I just went through a second, plastic, POS switch and DO NOT want to buy
another one.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 20:26:27 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <38DEA8CC-D951-4A9D-9B1F-45D280209607@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 22:23:36 -0400
	46V6BqZfFuxw7LBaeSKMDvoFU1HYkLGl5D032jX8pZ0iNM9k1U
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Subject: Re: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the TR4 switch works like the TR6 switch, here's a couple of quality 
alternatives... http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AltBrakeSwitch.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:50 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch

Listers,

Can anyone point me to a source for a reliable, quality brake light switch 
for
a TR4A.
I just went through a second, plastic, POS switch and DO NOT want to buy
another one.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 20:33:59 2013
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	Sun, 16 Jun 2013 22:32:09 -0400
From: David Templeton <davidt@opentext.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch
Thread-Index: AQHOav2MbCq40BtbjUCfxC+lReD4L5k5Lv5g
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 02:32:34 +0000
References: <38DEA8CC-D951-4A9D-9B1F-45D280209607@genfiniti.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Guy

When I added my secondary switch to the TR3a, I went with a standard two wire
brake switch off a GM I think.  It was $15( cdn :-) )  at the local parts
store.  The best part was the two nuts provided allowed for exacting
positioning.

Regards
David Templeton

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:51 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Source for durable brake light switch

Listers,

Can anyone point me to a source for a reliable, quality brake light switch for
a TR4A.
I just went through a second, plastic, POS switch and DO NOT want to buy
another one.


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt@opentext.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 21:07:29 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1371410938.82710.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:05:46 -0700
Thread-index: Ac5qx9LrQrv50W6aS+uL5+NUZ49/7wAPd2iA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>      About every 3 years my TR3A turn signal flasher starts
> malfunctioning. It
> works fine and then one day it will work fine on the right turn signal and
> the
> left turn signal will flash one time and stop.

Sounds like for some reason, the LH signals are drawing less current than
the RH.  Bad connection, corroded wires, even a really old bulb might be the
cause.  Do they act the same with the headlights on?

(I'm guessing that, as the flasher ages, it takes a bit more current to make
it work properly.  That's why a new flasher solves the problem, for awhile.
The stock flashers are deliberately sensitive to current draw, so you can
tell when a bulb burns out.)

>      I bought a new "heavy duty" flasher unit from NAPA that
> looked similar, but the turn signal indicator doesn't work at all now,
> although the turn signals themselves work. It probably takes too much
> electricity to run or something.

I had much the same experience with all of the thermal 3-prong flashers from
Kragen (now O'Reilly).  They are simply not made correctly to work in the
circuit in our cars.  On the last one, I finally gave up and changed the
wiring to the dash lamp to make it work.  The change was simple, I just
removed the ground wire for the indicator lamp, and connected the wire to
switched 12v from the switch instead.

Later, I switched to a Tridon EL13 "electronic" flasher, which works with
either connection to the indicator lamp.  The first one failed after 5 years
or so, apparently because the mounting clip I used was too tight and the
plastic housing cracked.  But the second one is still going strong.

FWIW, the EL13 is not truly "electronic", it just uses a RC timing network
and relay instead of the usual resistance wire and bimetal strip contacts.
It should still work correctly with positive ground.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 16 21:23:00 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080><17F439E591FE48F0AC8CA801EB1C6E53@Meislaptop>
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Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:20:53 -0700
Thread-index: AQFPNdSYmykI/C2YAZbJPpWJO1/hKAJtWtZSAjr5GykB1446spoCHsNQgAGHQVA=
Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have often wondered why the headlights (a side lights) were wired so
> that
> the ignition did not have to be turned on.  Does anyone know?  

I don't know _the_ reason, but I can think of several possibilities.  One
would be that parking lights were required when parked in certain areas
(like on the side of the road).  My early Stag even has a special position
that only lights the parking lights on the traffic side of the car.

Another would be that the ignition switch is puny, and not capable of
handling the current for the headlights.

I'm also grateful that the headlights don't go out with the switch, since I
have been known to kill the engine while on the road.  It's amazing how far
you can limp without a water pump, by only running the engine for a few
seconds at a time.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 03:04:17 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 10:02:27 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have often wondered why the headlights (a side lights) were wired so
>
that
> the ignition did not have to be turned on.  Does anyone know? 
 Lighting regs for many European countries required a car parked at night in a
street to display lights to front and rear. Slowly, this has been abandoned
except possibly in Germany where the indicator switch leaves lights on on
whichever side they're needed. If your market did not require this piece of
equipment, you still got it because the cost of having different wiring
harnesses/light switches / whatever were saved.

Jonmac 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 06:39:57 -0400
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 3D printing is here...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...and additive manufacturing is expected to have big impacts on a number
of industries.  One of the areas is spare parts, where complex parts,
expensive inventory, and logistics needs are driving a lot of high-buck
equipment folks to look at it.

There will almost certainly be impacts on classic car parts, too. It's
already starting. The July 2013 issue of Thoroughbred and Classic Cars has
a tiny mention of Noble House, a Dutch Aston company, who have been making
plastic and metal parts since July 2011. They mention a DBS airbox in
plastic, steel DB4 door hinges, and a baffled oil sump.

Over the long term there will be many
Triumph parts made this way, we can be sure.  The technology is just
getting started.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 05:45:01 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 07:43:23 -0400 (EDT)
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1371469404;
	bh=OOfYrT3AwuKNaF4lI4gjmS53osRyIUqAamqhavYYGQE=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] 3D printing is here...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Indeed, and with small printers in the sub $10K range the major hurdle has 
become the 3D CAD files that are needed.  Back when our cars were designed a 
CAD was just a person you wouldn't care to associate with.

Dave

In a message dated 6/17/2013 5:41:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
don.hiscock@gmail.com writes: 
> ...and additive manufacturing is expected to have big impacts on a number
> of industries.  One of the areas is spare parts, where complex parts,
> expensive inventory, and logistics needs are driving a lot of high-buck
> equipment folks to look at it.
> 
> There will almost certainly be impacts on classic car parts, too. It's
> already starting. The July 2013 issue of Thoroughbred and Classic Cars has
> a tiny mention of Noble House, a Dutch Aston company, who have been making
> plastic and metal parts since July 2011. They mention a DBS airbox in
> plastic, steel DB4 door hinges, and a baffled oil sump.
> 
> Over the long term there will be many
> Triumph parts made this way, we can be sure.  The technology is just
> getting started.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 07:29:58 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Berger Bob" <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>, "Listserv Triumph"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3227EBAE-9F2A-492D-9346-3EF4ACEA0340@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:28:08 -0400
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	bWxchKItZw1ZgkO6gRbg704XS0D8PuydwFt7Z05pN
Subject: Re: [TR] Buckeye Triumphs Website
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Over in the 6-Pack Forum, one of the Buckeye members said there was a 
"billing" issue with their hosting company that they were trying to resolve.

Maybe someone has an update as it would be a shame to lose that wealth of 
info.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Berger Bob
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 9:22 AM
To: Listserv Triumph ; Spitfire Group
Subject: [TR] Buckeye Triumphs Website

Their website is off line.  Did they get hacked and take it down?

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 07:37:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 09:35:33 -0400
From: Edward Dressler <etd@psu.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Momo steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have any experience installing a Momo steering wheel on a TR4?  I 
am mostly concerned with retaining the original horn function.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Landis,Ronald" <ron.landis@kentcountymi.gov>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Sloppy brake pedal bracket
Thread-Index: Ac5rZzNWUqNoCGGPSruXZmZTqZNnOQ==
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:34:21 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [205.142.59.250]
Subject: [TR] Sloppy brake pedal bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

HI

The brake pedal on my tr250 moves side to side enough so that my brake light
does not turn off when I take my foot off the brake.  Since I am fat and old
it is tough to see how to fix the problem.  I could loose weight or get a
younger person to crawl in there:)  Is there a way to repair this?

Thanks

Ron TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 09:07:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 08:04:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>,
	"Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] light switch TR3B
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John
you always jolt my memory with stuff like this.
I remember my dad had a
railway kerosene lamp that he would light each night and take outside and hang
off the gutter of the old 32 Ford Y type.
and one more for the privy at the
end of the yard. not to keep one bum warm, but to keep the temperature above
freezing during the winter. else suffer the broken pipes.
Frank
________________________________
 From: John Macartney
<flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
<Triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 2:02 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] light switch TR3B
  

> I have often wondered why the headlights (a side
lights) were wired so
>
that
> the ignition did not have to be turned on. 
Does anyone know? 
Lighting regs for many European countries required a car
parked at night in a
street to display lights to front and rear. Slowly, this
has been abandoned
except possibly in Germany where the indicator switch
leaves lights on on
whichever side they're needed. If your market did not
require this piece of
equipment, you still got it because the cost of having
different wiring
harnesses/light switches / whatever were saved.

Jonmac 

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 10:40:11 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Landis,Ronald'" <ron.landis@kentcountymi.gov>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA84379B1A2@BY2PRD0810MB367.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:37:36 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJuh2dhKTQZ8Q+s9h8qgqmCmruKzJf54mBg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Sloppy brake pedal bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey, Ron.  To me, the pedal moving side-to-side indicates wear on the shaft
and/or bushings - a relatively easy fix.  The brake light not going off may
or may not be related, and could be as simple as a sticky brake switch.

And yes - get a younger person to go take a look.  Or someone down the road
in Michigan..........

Andrew Uprichard
Down the road in Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Landis,Ronald
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:34 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Sloppy brake pedal bracket

HI

The brake pedal on my tr250 moves side to side enough so that my brake light
does not turn off when I take my foot off the brake.  Since I am fat and old
it is tough to see how to fix the problem.  I could loose weight or get a
younger person to crawl in there:)  Is there a way to repair this?

Thanks

Ron TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 11:09:26 2013
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References: <51BF10A5.7050808@psu.edu>
From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 13:06:58 -0400
To: Edward Dressler <etd@psu.edu>
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338251bf42316b13
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Momo steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, sure have.  - well...on a TR6, but it should be the same - get a Momo
horn button and it will work fine

Cheers, Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 17, 2013, at 9:35 AM, Edward Dressler <etd@psu.edu> wrote:

> Anyone have any experience installing a Momo steering wheel on a TR4?  I am
mostly concerned with retaining the original horn function.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 12:11:48 2013
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From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi@roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 11:05:51 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5rhUyD6aydBAhrReeOluhqsr9MHg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] 3D printing is here...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Don,
I agree! I have a small 3D printer and it is incredible to be able to make
anything you can think of (well, almost!). Of course, the tough part is
learning the CAD software required to be able to "print" a part.

Brian

----------------------------------------------------------------------

...and additive manufacturing is expected to have big impacts on a number of
industries.  One of the areas is spare parts, where complex parts, expensive
inventory, and logistics needs are driving a lot of high-buck equipment
folks to look at it.

There will almost certainly be impacts on classic car parts, too. It's
already starting. The July 2013 issue of Thoroughbred and Classic Cars has a
tiny mention of Noble House, a Dutch Aston company, who have been making
plastic and metal parts since July 2011. They mention a DBS airbox in
plastic, steel DB4 door hinges, and a baffled oil sump.

Over the long term there will be many
Triumph parts made this way, we can be sure.  The technology is just getting
started.


------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 13:28:44 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
	<17F439E591FE48F0AC8CA801EB1C6E53@Meislaptop>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:26:17 -0400
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Content-language: en-us
Expiry-date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about GearOil),
Castrol, Mobil.
Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
online....

Suggestions appreciated.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid

> Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
> didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed 
> before)

I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff since about 1985.  Works
great.

Redline MT-90 in the gearbox/OD (both A & J).

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:35:27 -0700
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Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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You can buy Redline Oil Products online b&  redlineoil.com


On Jun 17, 2013, at 12:26 PM, "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
> products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about GearOil),
> Castrol, Mobil.
> Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
> online....
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
> To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
>
>> Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
>> didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed
>> before)
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 13:46:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 12:45:26 -0700
From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: TR list <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Did a red line dealer search for Tampa and found 4 within 50 miles; one in
Tampa

1Cycle Gear
12 W. Fletcher Avenue
Tampa, FL 33612


course they may not have the prouct you are looking for.

there also was
Lowe's Performance in Sarasota



On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Carl-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
> products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about GearOil),
> Castrol, Mobil.
> Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
> online....
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
> To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
>
> > Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
> > didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed
> > before)
>
> I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff since about 1985.
>  Works
> great.
>
> Redline MT-90 in the gearbox/OD (both A & J).
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 14:14:07 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'William Pugh'" <anabil007@comcast.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 16:08:43 -0400
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Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I realize that b but timing is an issue.

C





From: William Pugh [mailto:anabil007@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 3:35 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid



You can buy Redline Oil Products online b&  redlineoil.com





On Jun 17, 2013, at 12:26 PM, "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:





No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about GearOil),
Castrol, Mobil.
Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
online....

Suggestions appreciated.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid




Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed
before)





"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 15:02:34 2013
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From: "v6spitfireguy@cox.net" <v6spitfireguy@cox.net>
To: 308gtsi@roadrunner.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:01:58 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 3D printing is here...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If Anyone needs CAD files for 3D printing, let me know.  I can do them in
Solidworks 2011 if I have the original part to copy, the drawing, or the
dimensions needed.

*******************Original message*********************

Don,
I agree! I have a small 3D printer and it is incredible to be able to make
anything you can think of (well, almost!). Of course, the tough part is
learning the CAD software required to be able to "print" a part.

Brian


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 15:45:34 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley'" <triosan@gmail.com>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:43:31 -0400
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Content-language: en-us
Expiry-date: Sun, 15 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
Cc: 'TR list' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

They don't carry MT90 only cycle products

 

 

From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 3:45 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: TR list
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid

 

Did a red line dealer search for Tampa and found 4 within 50 miles; one in
Tampa

 

1Cycle Gear 

12 W. Fletcher Avenue 
Tampa, FL 33612

 

course they may not have the prouct you are looking for.

 

there also was 

Lowe's Performance in Sarasota

 

 

On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Carl-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about GearOil),
Castrol, Mobil.
Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
online....

Suggestions appreciated.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid

> Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
> didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed
> before)

I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff since about 1985.  Works
great.

Redline MT-90 in the gearbox/OD (both A & J).

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
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Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tranny_part_needed?=
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Putting in Herman van akkers 5 speed kit, and ran into a problem.
The housing that holds the end of the shift lever to the single rail shift rod is too long to use on the supra box.
Herman supplied a p/n of 33502-14100, which apparently fits a lot of the boxes.
Unfortunately, being a non wear item, Toyota doesn't have but one nationally, and its stupid money.
Junkyards won't sell it, because you have to pull the rear of the trans apart to get it.
Does anyone have an idea where to find a part like this?  It would have to be remnants of a gearbox stripdown on a bad box.
It's the part the shift lever ball fits into, if that makes it clearer...
Thanks in advance. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 17:00:05 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:56:45 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 6/17/13 12:26 PM, Carl-TR wrote:
> No one in Tampa carries Redline products.
I have the same problem is Flagstaff.  But Amazon.com sells Redline.   
Among other places I use it in my Land Rover's gearbox. It makes a BIG 
difference in cold shifts made during single digit winter mornings.    
These days it goes most anyplace that doesn't leak in both of my cars.

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 18:16:58 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:13:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you can't get redline you can use GL4 rated gear oil, most if not all the 
off the shelf stuff it GL5, I think you can get GL4 still at some NAPA 
stores, or they can usually get it in from another location in a day or 
less.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 4:43 PM
To: "'Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley'" <triosan@gmail.com>
Cc: "'TR list'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid

> They don't carry MT90 only cycle products
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan@gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 3:45 PM
> To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
> Cc: TR list
> Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
>
>
>
> Did a red line dealer search for Tampa and found 4 within 50 miles; one in
> Tampa
>
>
>
> 1Cycle Gear
>
> 12 W. Fletcher Avenue
> Tampa, FL 33612
>
>
>
> course they may not have the prouct you are looking for.
>
>
>
> there also was
>
> Lowe's Performance in Sarasota
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Carl-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> No one in Tampa carries Redline products.   Are there any comparable
> products.   Found Royal Purple, Lucas, Amsoil (but not sure about 
> GearOil),
> Castrol, Mobil.
> Of course I put off this part of the project until it is too late to go
> online....
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2013 12:45 AM
> To: 'Carl TR'; Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive & Diff fluid
>
>> Same question for the rear diff.   thanks  - I searched the archive and
>> didn't really see any even though I know this has been discussed
>> before)
>
> I use Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in the diff since about 1985. 
> Works
> great.
>
> Redline MT-90 in the gearbox/OD (both A & J).
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 18:23:53 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <spook01@comcast.net>
References: <20130617223802.B523F4041F@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:22:21 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny part needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Can't help you on the part but maybe some of the info on this page will help

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedDaneWilson.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: spook01@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 6:36 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Tranny part needed

Putting in Herman van akkers 5 speed kit, and ran into a problem.
The housing that holds the end of the shift lever to the single rail shift 
rod is too long to use on the supra box.
Herman supplied a p/n of 33502-14100, which apparently fits a lot of the 
boxes.
Unfortunately, being a non wear item, Toyota doesn't have but one 
nationally, and its stupid money.
Junkyards won't sell it, because you have to pull the rear of the trans 
apart to get it.
Does anyone have an idea where to find a part like this?  It would have to 
be remnants of a gearbox stripdown on a bad box.
It's the part the shift lever ball fits into, if that makes it clearer...
Thanks in advance.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 18:42:12 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 19:40:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, spook01@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny part needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I see the part on several of the discount OEM Toyota websites with a search in Google for around $80.  Don't know if that is stupid money or not.


Craig
72 TR6
 
 
On 06/17/13, Bob<75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
 
Can't help you on the part but maybe some of the info on this page will help

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedDaneWilson.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: spook01@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 6:36 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Tranny part needed

Putting in Herman van akkers 5 speed kit, and ran into a problem.
The housing that holds the end of the shift lever to the single rail shift 
rod is too long to use on the supra box.
Herman supplied a p/n of 33502-14100, which apparently fits a lot of the 
boxes.
Unfortunately, being a non wear item, Toyota doesn't have but one 
nationally, and its stupid money.
Junkyards won't sell it, because you have to pull the rear of the trans 
apart to get it.
Does anyone have an idea where to find a part like this? It would have to 
be remnants of a gearbox stripdown on a bad box.
It's the part the shift lever ball fits into, if that makes it clearer...
Thanks in advance.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20683919.1562531.1371135786293.JavaMail.root@vznit170080><17F439E591FE48F0AC8CA801EB1C6E53@Meislaptop><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAJFQF7ZD0PZFv/1kqb96cowBAAAAAA==@verizon.net><5C3EDF01-C0B5-4EBC-9EC6-FD036465E989@comcast.net>
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:16:49 -0700
Thread-Index: AQFPNdSYmykI/C2YAZbJPpWJO1/hKAJtWtZSAfz1l+MCs76pAZn/0LgggAB1HVA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I realize that b  but timing is an issue.

Amazon will ship next day, for an extra fee.  But their price was low enough
(compared to local stores) that the overall cost might not be much higher.

My second choice if the MT-90 is not available would be Valvoline VR1 or NSL
20W50 racing motor oil.  Ken Gillanders ran a 5-year test in his ex-racing
TR2 and reported the gearbox "looked like new" when they tore it down.
Herman van den Akker also recommends it.  And I ran it in my A-type for a
lot of years.  Supposedly the high ZDDP content helps to protect the thrust
washers, and of course motor oil is what both Laycock and Standard-Triumph
recommended for many years.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
To: "Triumph Discussion" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:41:08 -0600
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Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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So for quite a while my 57 TR3 hasnbt run quite right.  It overheated and
had low oil pressure when I drove it from my old house to my new one; blew the
headgasket.  Well, I replaced the headgasked about a year back and it drives,
but I have a lot of fumes coming our the valve cover and it sounds like there
is a knock.  Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
results:

1. (front) 70

2. 150

3. 160

4. 160



So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?



thanks,

Jeremiah

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 22:03:23 2013
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Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:00:04 -0700
From: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.20 (2009-06-14)
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 219
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> Over in the 6-Pack Forum, one of the Buckeye members said there was a 
> "billing" issue with their hosting company that they were trying to resolve.
> 
> Maybe someone has an update as it would be a shame to lose that wealth of 
> info.


Thank heavens for the Internet Archive:

http://web.archive.org/web/20130602050340/http://buckeyetriumphs.org/



In personal news, my poor old TR3A is finally coming home in a few
months.  I've only been able to put 5 or so miles on it in the last
few years (thanks to someone T-boning me right after I got it back
from the body shop).

Missing my Triumph!

Dave
http://triumph.Daveola.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 22:37:49 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph Discussion'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0334727208284CEB8DA90B487B5C80D1@TVroompc>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2013 21:34:52 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5r1jgtpk1ymiqkSJCQRKDAEbsQiQABkRMw
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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> Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
> results:
> 
> 1. (front) 70
> 2. 150
> 3. 160
> 4. 160
> 
> So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?

Yup, tho I'd pull the head first (you'll need to do both anyway, the pistons
won't come out the bottom).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 22:38:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 00:35:12 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: Triumph Discussion <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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When is the last time the valve clearance was adjusted? A worn valve seat
can reduce the .010 clearance at the valve rocker.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> So for quite a while my 57 TR3 hasnbt run quite right.  It overheated and
> had low oil pressure when I drove it from my old house to my new one; blew
> the
> headgasket.  Well, I replaced the headgasked about a year back and it
> drives,
> but I have a lot of fumes coming our the valve cover and it sounds like
> there
> is a knock.  Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
> results:
>
> 1. (front) 70
>
> 2. 150
>
> 3. 160
>
> 4. 160
>
>
>
> So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?
>
>
>
> thanks,
>
> Jeremiah

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 17 23:40:52 2013
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From: LT <llst@shaw.ca>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

  /Bill in Tehachapi  wrote//
//
//About every 3 years my TR3A turn signal flasher starts malfunctioning. It
works fine and then one day it will work fine on the right turn signal and the
left turn signal will flash one time and stop. I have a buzzer hooked in with
the indicator light so I can hear it when the turn signal is on. Anyway, I am
on about my 5th or 6th turn signal flasher unit and wondering if anyone has an
idea what causes them to fail. A new flasher unit seems to fix it every time,
for awhile.
      I bought a new "heavy duty" flasher unit from NAPA that
looked similar, but the turn signal indicator doesn't work at all now,
although the turn signals themselves work. It probably takes too much
electricity to run or something.
      I have a new flasher on order from MOSS.
I order them two at a time now...
      TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi/

I have what I believe is the same problem (right hand side flashes once from what I recall). It's been a while since I purchased the car and removed the head looking for what might cause steam to be generated in the # 1 cylinder.

By the way, I had the opportunity to stay in a Tehachapi motel for a night in March. My wife and I just got under the covers and within 20 minutes, we thought a locomotive was coming through the parking lot. Went on all night every couple of hours. I will remember to drive by next time no matter how tired I am.

Larry in Vancouver.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 06:13:45 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: LT <llst@shaw.ca>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 10:37 PM, LT <llst@shaw.ca> wrote:

> By the way, I had the opportunity to stay in a Tehachapi motel for a night
> in March. My wife and I just got under the covers and within 20 minutes, we
> thought a locomotive was coming through the parking lot. Went on all night
> every couple of hours. I will remember to drive by next time no matter how
> tired I am.



And I made a note to seek out that motel the next time we're in the area.

My favorite is La Posada in Winslow (great restaurant) where we get the
FDR room -- right next to the tracks, but your suggestion sounds great too.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 08:04:16 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 06:58:48 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Flasher Failures
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> And I made a note to seek out that motel the next time we're in the area.

Of course if you're going to visit Tehachapi (and you like trains), be sure
to see the famous Tehachapi loop.  It twists so tightly that the front of
the train can actually pass under (or over) the rear.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 18 13:39:29 2013
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From: "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, "'Triumph Discussion'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0334727208284CEB8DA90B487B5C80D1@TVroompc>
	<5B03FE443A4941B084F4C9FE5D06B32D@Meislaptop>
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2013 08:59:21 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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Thanks Randall,  I was thinking I could take the piston out the bottom. 
What else should I look for when I take the head off?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:34 PM
To: 'Triumph Discussion'
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results

> Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
> results:
>
> 1. (front) 70
> 2. 150
> 3. 160
> 4. 160
>
> So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?

Yup, tho I'd pull the head first (you'll need to do both anyway, the pistons
won't come out the bottom).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah@curryclan.net 

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Cc: Triumph Discussion <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The head was rebuilt about 1,000 miles ago with hardened valve seats, new 
valves etc.  There were cracks in the head that were fixed at the same time.

I tried adjusting the valve clearance...which was a little off, but if 
anything the compression went down a little.  Too bad, that would have been 
a nice easy fix.

-----Original Message----- 
From: greg@gelhar.com
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:35 PM
To: Jeremiah Curry
Cc: Triumph Discussion
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results

When is the last time the valve clearance was adjusted? A worn valve seat
can reduce the .010 clearance at the valve rocker.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> So for quite a while my 57 TR3 hasnbt run quite right.  It overheated and
> had low oil pressure when I drove it from my old house to my new one; blew
> the
> headgasket.  Well, I replaced the headgasked about a year back and it
> drives,
> but I have a lot of fumes coming our the valve cover and it sounds like
> there
> is a knock.  Today I got around to compression testing it and here are the
> results:
>
> 1. (front) 70
>
> 2. 150
>
> 3. 160
>
> 4. 160
>
>
>
> So I guess the next step is to drop the oil pan and take out that piston?
>
>
>
> thanks,
>
> Jeremiah

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 08:27:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 09:26:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny/Overdrive  & Diff  fluid
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Extra fee...   $80+ depending on one or two day....  
 
I found a local distributor of Brad Penn GL4 80w90 which is what TRF recommends.   So all is good with the universe.
  



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 06/17/13, Randall 
wrote:

> I realize that b but timing is an issue.

Amazon will ship next day, for an extra fee. But their price was low enough
(compared to local stores) that the overall cost might not be much higher.

My second choice if the MT-90 is not available would be Valvoline VR1 or NSL
20W50 racing motor oil. Ken Gillanders ran a 5-year test in his ex-racing
TR2 and reported the gearbox "looked like new" when they tore it down.
Herman van den Akker also recommends it. And I ran it in my A-type for a
lot of years. Supposedly the high ZDDP content helps to protect the thrust
washers, and of course motor oil is what both Laycock and Standard-Triumph
recommended for many years.

-- Randall

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 09:29:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS is not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding address).  Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no guarantee that he is still alive)
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 08:45:31 2013
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References: <19102847.1181238.1371738558423.JavaMail.root@vznit170126>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 07:43:51 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl -

I believe there are services that 'help' one title vehicles with limited
documentation using a state that is not so fussy.  I seem to recall that
Alabama is the state of choice for some of these services.  A Google may
turn them up if no one here has direct experience.

Geo


On Thu, Jun 20, 2013 at 7:29 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of
> Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS is
> not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding
> address).  Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities
> nationwide - no guarantee that he is still alive)
>
>
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
> mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 08:00:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl
here in California we can register a car at our AAA office.
when buddy
Curt had trouble at the DMV registering his dead dads car in his name, he went
to the AAA office and it was an easy step.
 
Frank
________________________________
 From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To:
Triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 7:29 AM
Subject: [TR]
FL DMV
  

I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The
Bill of Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The
BOS is not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding
address).  Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities
nationwide - no guarantee that he is still alive)


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <19102847.1181238.1371738558423.JavaMail.root@vznit170126>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:01:55 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5twp+o0ChkSDMjSO6Bjdg3cU2/1QAAgkCw
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good luck on your search, otherwise a Bonded Title would be the way to go.
In Texas is will set you back an additional $250.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 9:29 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FL DMV

I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of
Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS is
not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding address).
Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no
guarantee that he is still alive)
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 12:43:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'cfmtr3a@verizon.net'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, 
	"'Triumphs@autox.team.net'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Carl:

I long time ago in Quebec I got a completely undocumented motorcycle in bits.
I rebuilt it and then hit a wall trying to get it licensed.

After many struggles, the solution was to write a document describing the bike
(model, year, VIN etc), stated the conditions of purchase. I then tood the
document to a Commissioner of Oaths, who stamped it as a legally binding
statement. The licensing bureau accepted that document with no difficulty and
even smiled (a little).

Many municipal city halls offer the service. It really is often the only way
out of this sort of bind. I'm not sure if the office is called the same thing
in the US, but I'm fairly certain that it exists in the same form.

Best of luck!

Mark
1972 TR6



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: June-20-13 10:29 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FL DMV

I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of
Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS is
not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding address).
Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no
guarantee that he is still alive)


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 11:13:38 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 17:07:55 GMT
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Having been in the military (moving basket cases from state to state) and
afflicted with the car bugfor over 30 years I agree with Mark's concept.The
general clerk at various registration offices only knows the plain vanilla
process, but eventuallyyou should be able to locate someone that has the
answers for the nonstandard issues. In several states I have had to produce an
affidavit to explain the various convoluted circumstances I wasattempting to
reconcile.  Matt

Mark wrote:

Many municipal city halls offer the service. It really is often the only way
out of this sort of bind. I'm not sure if the office is called the same thing
in the US, but I'm fairly certain that it exists in the same form.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: June-20-13 10:29 AM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FL DMV

I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 12:21:40 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <19102847.1181238.1371738558423.JavaMail.root@vznit170126>
	<CANzE1bGKs5BdN2Ce=QZQ=G2PDH+OxY9tziAyB7xDsV8BSuVXZw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:12:29 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

as a previous lister mentioned, in texas you can get a bonded title.  PIA, 
btdt.  what I found also is that many don't know the rules and/or are simply 
wrong.  I had to go to a different dmv to get my bonded title.  keep trying, 
keep researching, and you should be able to do it.  don't bother with the 
old owner.  he doesnbt care and won't help you!

my son is in alabama; we considered registering a vehicle there.  after some 
research, I found that all you have to do is show up with the car, show them 
a bill of sale, and they will "register" the car.  which means give you a 
plate.  alabama does not give titles to vehicles over 25 years old so it 
probably won't help you.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 9:43 AM
To: Carl TR
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV

Carl -

I believe there are services that 'help' one title vehicles with limited
documentation using a state that is not so fussy.  I seem to recall that
Alabama is the state of choice for some of these services.  A Google may
turn them up if no one here has direct experience.

Geo


On Thu, Jun 20, 2013 at 7:29 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of
> Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS 
> is
> not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding
> address).  Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities
> nationwide - no guarantee that he is still alive)
>
>
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 12:46:55 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 14:44:46 -0400
References: <mailman.12.1371751202.29216.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you provided more info about the previous owner and car, maybe  
someone on the list might know them.

Allen
On Jun 20, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The  
> Bill of Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in  
> 1987.   The BOS is not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that  
> address (no forwarding address).  Any ideas?  (Internet search came  
> up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no guarantee that he is still  
> alive)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 13:01:39 2013
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Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 11:57:51 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
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For those of us with a vehicle and absolutely no paperwork, the State of
Washington issues a title "with ownership in doubt" that allows for normal
inspection and license tags for the vehicle. In three years the title
reverts to a normal title with no encumbrances. I took this path four years
ago with my TR3A; last year, with no effort on my part, the unencumbered
title appeared in my mailbox. Maybe the sunshine state is equally helpful to
us vintage gearheads. I dealt with the state headquarters people; the local
DOT folks were generally clueless.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image003.gif]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 20 14:12:45 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 20:09:30 GMT
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

But a registration with your son in AL could easily be follow by a current
bill of sale and subsequent registration most anywhere.  MB


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 13:12:29 -0500



my son is in alabama; we considered registering a vehicle there.  after some
research, I found that all you have to do is show up with the car, show them
a bill of sale, and they will "register" the car.  which means give you a
plate.  alabama does not give titles to vehicles over 25 years old so it
probably won't help you.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2013 19:01:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR4A turn signal switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,
Does anyone know where I might pick up a good working TR4A turn signal switch.
I have looked everywhere and can't find mine..
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 01:02:54 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumph Discussion'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 00:00:49 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> The head was rebuilt about 1,000 miles ago with hardened 
> valve seats, new valves etc.

Likely it is fine, but I wouldn't assume anything.  This head had less than
20,000 on new valves & hardened exhaust seats:
http://tinyurl.com/m6ouoqs

>  There were cracks in the head 
> that were fixed at the same time.

Danger danger, Will Robinson!

Or maybe a better phrase is "Trust, but verify".

Be sure to check liner protrusion on both sides, even if you don't change
the liners.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <08.62.06197.02AF3C15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 08:21:29 -0600
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Cc: 'Triumph Discussion' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone.  I put some oil in the cylinder and tested again and the 
pressure went up to 100 psi, so it looks like it is probably rings.  Should 
I replace all of them at the same time, even if the rest test fine?

Is there still value in doing a leak-down?  My local FLAPS doesn't have one 
of those to borrow.

I think I will replace bearings too while I am at it since I detect a knock. 
Once I am  over my head technically I might as well go all the way p
  There 
appear to be two sets of bearings, the con rod beargings and the main 
bearings, is one of these more likely to be the issue than the other?

Randall, I changed the headgasket probably 150 miles ago and the head at 
least looked fine.  The protrusion wasn't perfect, but good enough that the 
head gasket replacement seems to have worked without the "ring of fire"

Jeremiah

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 1:00 AM
Cc: 'Triumph Discussion'
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results

> The head was rebuilt about 1,000 miles ago with hardened
> valve seats, new valves etc.

Likely it is fine, but I wouldn't assume anything.  This head had less than
20,000 on new valves & hardened exhaust seats:
http://tinyurl.com/m6ouoqs

>  There were cracks in the head
> that were fixed at the same time.

Danger danger, Will Robinson!

Or maybe a better phrase is "Trust, but verify".

Be sure to check liner protrusion on both sides, even if you don't change
the liners.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah@curryclan.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 11:03:06 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumph Discussion'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 10:00:36 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5uiuqN4ckOjYOmT1OAIdzpvwZGSwAE8Xhw
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
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> Should I replace all of them at the 
> same time, even if the rest test fine?

Tough call.  Most people will say to replace, but it kind of depends on your
future plans.  Will worn rings be the reason you tear it down next time?  If
so, new rings now may delay that day.  But if you'll never drive it that
far, then maybe it makes sense to keep the old rings.  It also depends on
what you find in #1.  If the piston or liner (cylinder wall) is damaged, it
may make more sense to replace the entire liner set.

> the way ??  There appear to be two sets of bearings, the con 
> rod beargings and the main bearings, is one of these more 
> likely to be the issue than the other?

Con rod bearings live a harder life; are more likely to be worn or damaged
IMO.  But IMO it would be foolish to not plan on replacing both anyway.
Also check the crank journals carefully and have them reground if necessary.
If one main bearing shows more wear than the others, have the crank & block
checked for straightness.  TR blocks aren't known for warping, but it does
sometimes happen.  If so, you may want to just look for another used motor,
rather than trying to save the block you have.

> Randall, I changed the headgasket probably 150 miles ago and 
> the head at least looked fine.

Good.  Hopefully it will still look that way.  But repairs to cast iron are
rarely as strong as the original (that wasn't strong enough).  You've gone
to a lot of expense and effort to get the engine apart; it makes sense (to
me) to check as much as possible, especially the areas that have been a
problem in the past.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 21 13:08:45 2013
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User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.22
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Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I wish I could say I have an idea that would help. Well, I really do, it's
just going to take a lot longer (years/generations/revolutions) than you're
probably willing to use.

</rant on> For some reason we're all conditioned to put up with this kind of
behavior/treatment. But I don't buy it. No, I don't for a minute believe that
it protects me, saves me money, or makes my society any better. In fact, it
does just the opposite for each of these. Sorry, this is just on my mind a lot
lately. If you want a good idea of what I'm talking about, take a look at one
of my favorites reads, in which the first two sentences are "States are
criminal organizations. All states, not just the obviously totalitarian or
repressive ones." This is from Gerard Casey's "Libertarian Anarchy". Check it
out, I think you'll be surprised what you'll learn. </rant off>


> I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered.  The Bill of
> Sale is dated 1999; the car was last registered in NY in 1987.   The BOS is
> not notarized.  The PO is no longer at that address (no forwarding address).
> Any ideas?  (Internet search came up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no
> guarantee that he is still alive)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 20:21:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5uiuqN4ckOjYOmT1OAIdzpvwZGSwAE8XhwABUxvoA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 compression test results
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> > Should I replace all of them at the
> > same time, even if the rest test fine?

When you pull #1 you'll get a good idea of what the others will probably
look like.

> Tough call.  Most people will say to replace, but it kind of depends on
> your future plans. 

Randall's right, you need to assess what you're driving habits are. That
should dictate the level of rebuild. My suggestion is to avoid Shipwrights
disease. Fix the problem and call it a day. These TRactors engines are
tough.

It was my understanding that you are NOT pulling the engine, correct? The
only options you really have then is to replace the connecting rod bearings.
My suggestion is to not even touch the mains unless your oil pressure also
sucks. And replacing the rear main bearing with the crank in place is a
bitch.

Since you'll be working "looking up" at the engine be careful to lube the
journals generously. Be careful of all the dirt and grime inside the engine.
Wear your crappiest clothes and eye protection. Wash your hands frequently.
Don't wear gloves as they collect dirt.

Good luck
Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 13:10:32 2013
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Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:08:36 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant #4222". 
My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 220-180 
but is no longer valid.

Numerous web searches turned up nothing.

The reason I am looking for this particular brand is it is silicone free.

Does anyone know of an outlet where this can be acquired?

If not, does any one know of a vinyl protectant that is silicone free 
and will not lead to pre-mature cracking etc?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 13:23:52 2013
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Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:21:31 -0400
From: Hugh Barber <tr6nut@verizon.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130509
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
Cc: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Have you tried 303 Aerospace Protectant ?   i do not believe that it 
contains silicone either and it works well.

Hugh Barber



On 6/22/2013 3:08 PM, Bob Labuz wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant 
> #4222". My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 
> 220-180 but is no longer valid.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 13:27:50 2013
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References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 22:25:54 +0300
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The guys at 303 Aerospace Protectant claim their product has no silicones.
http://303products.com/product-uses/protectant-on-vinyl

I have no first-hand experince with the stuff, other than a moist
towelette free sample from a car show last fall that hasn't been used.
 Others here will know more about "303" than I, for sure.

On 6/22/13, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant #4222".
> My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 220-180
> but is no longer valid.
>
> Numerous web searches turned up nothing.
>
> The reason I am looking for this particular brand is it is silicone free.
>
> Does anyone know of an outlet where this can be acquired?
>
> If not, does any one know of a vinyl protectant that is silicone free
> and will not lead to pre-mature cracking etc?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From: "Chuck" <triumph.driver@gmail.com>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:27:16 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5ve+jv27jfi4h4Sca9Wzprx5ZhvwAAlDMg
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

A quick Google search turned up

www.keystononline.com

but their website says you have to have a verified account to see pricing
information.  Click their "contact" button and ask where you can get it.

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A
1970 GT6+ 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 3:09 PM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Vinyl protectant

Hi,

I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant #4222". 
My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 220-180 but is
no longer valid.

Numerous web searches turned up nothing.

The reason I am looking for this particular brand is it is silicone free.

Does anyone know of an outlet where this can be acquired?

If not, does any one know of a vinyl protectant that is silicone free and
will not lead to pre-mature cracking etc?

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 13:32:30 2013
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Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 15:30:37 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130510
	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: Chuck <triumph.driver@gmail.com>
References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
	<1B379FD5AF044912A6A1E7F9038BFF6B@Chuck>
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Chuck,

Yes I did find their website but the product is not listed. I located an 
email address deep in the website and have forwarded a query to them.

If it turns out that the product is not available I will try the 303 
product.

Thanks,

Bob

On 06/22/2013 03:27 PM, Chuck wrote:
> Bob,
>
> A quick Google search turned up
>
> www.keystononline.com
>
> but their website says you have to have a verified account to see pricing
> information.  Click their "contact" button and ask where you can get it.
>
> Chuck White
> Xenia, OH
> 1965 TR4A
> 1970 GT6+
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 3:09 PM
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Vinyl protectant
>
> Hi,
>
> I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant #4222".
> My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 220-180 but is
> no longer valid.
>
> Numerous web searches turned up nothing.
>
> The reason I am looking for this particular brand is it is silicone free.
>
> Does anyone know of an outlet where this can be acquired?
>
> If not, does any one know of a vinyl protectant that is silicone free and
> will not lead to pre-mature cracking etc?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 18:39:49 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
	<CAPK7CFBA-WsYxi_1Z5cCjp7PQ3JLBihxqVK3t+Jy-4ARRgh1gw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 19:36:05 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a vinyl truck bed cover for a couple years, and the installer 
recommended the 303 product.  I used it as long as I had the truck, and it 
seemed to do a good job.  I have a cloth top on my tr6 so I haven't used the 
product for years.  I just went out into the garage to look for it, but I 
guess I used it up.  I no longer have any so can't verify if it has 
silicone.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Don Hiscock
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 2:25 PM
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant

The guys at 303 Aerospace Protectant claim their product has no silicones.
http://303products.com/product-uses/protectant-on-vinyl

I have no first-hand experince with the stuff, other than a moist
towelette free sample from a car show last fall that hasn't been used.
Others here will know more about "303" than I, for sure.

On 6/22/13, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:
> Hi,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 22 22:58:28 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51C5F634.5070605@adelphia.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2013 21:56:12 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Vinyl protectant
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Hi Bob,
I pass by Keyston's facility about once or twice a week. Would you like me
to stop by and get some for you?
Johnnie
San Diego

> I am trying to locate a product called: Keyston Vinyl Protectant
> #4222".
> My bottle I bought from Moss finally is empty. The Moss # was 220-180
> but is no longer valid.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 20:45:11 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 21:43:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

TR b apparently sat for some years; was not running when I got it.

now it runs, mostly.

drive it for 10 to 20 minutes, it will sputter, lose power, and die.

let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes or a day or two, it will start right up.

except yesterday I put 4 gallons of premium, plus some fuel injector/carb
cleaner, drove it for 20+ minutes no problem.  tonight about 10 minutes and
poof.  wife shows up in about 10 or 15 min, starts to tow me home.  stopped at
a light I see if it will start, it does.  I drive the couple of miles home and
into the garage no problem.

crap in the gas tank, right?  time to R&R the tank and clean it out?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 20:52:30 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 19:50:39 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5whKNqt9zIbDhBS/ilZGeaRF7eyAAAE0/Q
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
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> crap in the gas tank, right?  time to R&R the tank and clean it out?

I'd want better evidence than that, before going to all the trouble to R&R
the tank; especially since you say it will "start right up" after the
problem passes.

Reproduce the problem, then pull off a fuel line near the carbs and crank
for a bit to see if it's pumping fuel.  If so, the problem is likely to be
somewhere else.  Like maybe a bad condenser.

Also try looking down the tank filler neck.  On a TR2 or 3, you can see the
tank outlet that way; but even on the other TRs you should be able to get
some idea if there is FOD in the bottom.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 21:12:35 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <78.DE.15971.9F3B7C15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 22:10:12 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would put my money on crud in the tank, that's exactly how it behaves when 
you have that problem, seen it many times on my cars and others as well, 
first hand, and heard many many of the same stories second hand.  But I 
agree with Randall, I would do a little more research before I pulled the 
tank. in addition to Randall's suggestion check your fuel filter if you have 
one, as well is crud in the float bowls of the carbs if you don't have a 
filter.

Greg Lemon


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 9:50 PM
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies

>> crap in the gas tank, right?  time to R&R the tank and clean it out?
>
> I'd want better evidence than that, before going to all the trouble to R&R
> the tank; especially since you say it will "start right up" after the
> problem passes.
>
> Reproduce the problem, then pull off a fuel line near the carbs and crank
> for a bit to see if it's pumping fuel.  If so, the problem is likely to be
> somewhere else.  Like maybe a bad condenser.
>
> Also try looking down the tank filler neck.  On a TR2 or 3, you can see 
> the
> tank outlet that way; but even on the other TRs you should be able to get
> some idea if there is FOD in the bottom.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 23 21:32:03 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <78.DE.15971.9F3B7C15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<50B72E3B43184BA795FF22F0B6662A0A@livingroompc>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2013 22:28:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

good suggestions.

have replaced the fuel filter once or twice.  it sits on the fender up above 
the fuel pump.

tonight it was full of fuel.

I guess I have to tempt fate to further trouble shoot this . . .  and I'll 
carry my handy tin cup to catch fuel.  I was going to test that tonight but 
the exhaust pipe is down there below all that and I didn't have my tin cup. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<50B72E3B43184BA795FF22F0B6662A0A@livingroompc>
	<E87D284FBDF74BA28480DE87AC4BDC61@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:02:09 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sticking float needle valves in the carb float chamber itself is another
likely cause. If the car has been stood for years, all sorts of muck in the
valves will cause a sticking valve and zero fuel flow. Remove the valves from
the float chamber lid, clean valve and housing with fine sand/emery paper,
blow through with air and re-assemble. BTDT many times. Cure to the general
problem of intermittent running comes under several headings and you often
have to go through all of them to be sure.


Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 05:27:00 2013
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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <809757D5556D4DF1BA640621F4BF0B0A@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 07:24:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

An overheated Coil can act up that way. Try switching it out with a known 
good coil.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 10:43 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] intermittantly dies

TR b apparently sat for some years; was not running when I got it.

now it runs, mostly.

drive it for 10 to 20 minutes, it will sputter, lose power, and die.

let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes or a day or two, it will start right up.

except yesterday I put 4 gallons of premium, plus some fuel injector/carb
cleaner, drove it for 20+ minutes no problem.  tonight about 10 minutes and
poof.  wife shows up in about 10 or 15 min, starts to tow me home.  stopped 
at
a light I see if it will start, it does.  I drive the couple of miles home 
and
into the garage no problem.

crap in the gas tank, right?  time to R&R the tank and clean it out?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 08:33:11 2013
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From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 09:30:42 -0500
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <809757D5556D4DF1BA640621F4BF0B0A@Datsun>
	<72D1219D29C344AD842461951AB1AD54@UserTHINK>
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When this happens reach back and pop the gas cap.  If you hear a whoosh..
your carbon canister (if you have one ) is clogged and creating a vacuum in
the fuel tank.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

> -----Original Message----- From: Dave
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 10:43 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] intermittantly dies
>
> TR b apparently sat for some years; was not running when I got it.
>
> now it runs, mostly.
>
> drive it for 10 to 20 minutes, it will sputter, lose power, and die.
>
> let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes or a day or two, it will start right up.
>
> except yesterday I put 4 gallons of premium, plus some fuel injector/carb
> cleaner, drove it for 20+ minutes no problem.  tonight about 10 minutes and
> poof.  wife shows up in about 10 or 15 min, starts to tow me home.  stopped
at
> a light I see if it will start, it does.  I drive the couple of miles home
and
> into the garage no problem.
>
> crap in the gas tank, right?  time to R&R the tank and clean it out?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 19:21:28 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:19:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] intermittantly dies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Another thing I would check is the fuel lines.  I had similar problems and it
turned out that a rubber line by the fuel line was collapsing and stopping the
fuel.

Roger Elliott



-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
>Sent: Jun 23, 2013 9:43 PM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] intermittantly dies
>
>TR b apparently sat for some years; was not running when I got it.
>
>now it runs, mostly.
>
>drive it for 10 to 20 minutes, it will sputter, lose power, and die.
>
>let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes or a day or two, it will start right up.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 19:37:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:35:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Me and my clutch again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hope everyone on the list is well.


1972 Triumph TR6.  Wrote the list 2 years ago when I replaced the clutch master and slave and was unable to get the car into gear without putting the rod from the slave in the top hole and not the middle hole per the manual.  The clutch was described as on its last leg when I had the pre-inspection done 8 years ago.


Many on the list said they ran that way, and I have been for 2 years.


This spring, clutch master was leaking inside the car on my Wilton wool carpet.


Had my car club over, replaced master and slave cylinder, mounted rod in the top hole, bled the system, and took a test drive.  All good.  Had a beer.


Took two more drives, and then it was getting difficult to get the car into first or reverse.


Have the car up on the ramps tonight, removed the rod from slave, checked how it was back together, and by the time I was done, I cannot get the car into any gear.  Its a paperweight.


I was told to take the cap off the master and push in the clutch.  The fluid did NOT go down.  What does this mean?  Also was advise to re-bleed the system again, several people saying that after driving a bit it is necessary.  The clutch pedal feels mushy, and the other thing I note is when the pedal is not depressed, under the car the rod is not returning all the way.


I am open to suggestions, thanks.


Craig 
Vienna, VA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 20:34:37 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <thenicholls@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 19:32:27 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5xRFp6aWmmLOvDT0KyC8PetlN9HAAAeaHQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Me and my clutch again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I was told to take the cap off the master and push in the 
> clutch.  The fluid did NOT go down.  What does this mean? 

That the MC appears to be working.  If the level changes at all, it should
rise very slightly as you first start to move the pedal.  Then the valve
between the reservoir and the working piston closes, and the level in the
reservoir stays the same.

>  the other thing I note is when the 
> pedal is not depressed, under the car the rod is not 
> returning all the way.

That's normal for a TR6.  The slave "self adjusts" by keeping the pushrod
out far enough to hold the bearing up against the clutch all the time.  In
fact, there should be a light spring inside the slave cylinder to keep it
there.  I've heard that some slaves come without the spring, so might be
worth checking if it is there.

How is the pivot between the clutch pedal and the MC pushrod?  Any wear here
translates directly to less motion at the slave and the later TR6 didn't
have any travel to spare.  Stags suffer the same ailment and I was able to
(temporarily) repair mine by making an oversize pin from a metric bolt and
reaming the holes to match.  To do it "right", you'll have to remove the
pedal and have the hole repaired by welding.

Does the lever on the gearbox point straight down, or slightly towards the
slave cylinder?  If it points the other direction, you may have a broken
taper pin.

Certainly can't hurt to try bleeding again.  Can you "pump up" the pedal and
get the clutch to release?

Two modifications might help:
1) Replace the old plastic line from MC to SC with a Teflon/SS line.  The
plastic "balloons" under pressure and so loses motion.  Ted Schumacher sells
the Teflon lines, I'm sure others do as well.

2) Replace the .70" bore MC with the .75" bore unit from a TR250 or early
TR6.  The pedal force will be higher, but you'll get more motion at the
slave.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jun 24 21:18:25 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <thenicholls@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 20:16:21 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5xTwAyjc7EU2liTw203EIjOfYCJwAAx+xg
Subject: Re: [TR] Me and my clutch again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> What about taking the bolts off of the slave cylinder and 
> putting a washer or two behind the slave where it bolts into 
> the bracket?  This would move it out towards the lever in the 
> right direction.  I have a feeling you are not going to like 
> that idea.  :)

Ok, this might sound crazy ... But that might actually help a small amount,
especially if you are using DOT 5 fluid.  On the Stag, I could tell that it
made a small difference, but not enough to solve the problem.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Me and my clutch again
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Are you positive the thrust washers are not part of the problem?

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 00:04:32 2013
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From: Sean Friele <SeanFriele@friele.us>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:01:22 -0700
Thread-Topic: Wire Wheel Tuning
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Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Tuning
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I live in Seattle and I recently got my Triumph TR3A driving again. Now I need
to get my wheels tuned. Does anyone know if there is someone who could do that
in the Northwest?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 06:09:28 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 08:05:21 -0400
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Roadster Factory Party Hotels Update
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Thanks to all that replied, We booked a room at the Holiday Inn, in Indiana
PA, the Quality Inn across the street was already booked, and the Bed and
Breakfast, just down the street from the Roadster Factory, was already
booked (the room with private bath, the misses wasn't willing to share one,
and I don't blame her:-}) or we would have stayed there!
If all goes well, we'll be there Thurs evening!!

Thanks again!

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 06:22:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 08:13:12 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Sean Friele'" <SeanFriele@friele.us>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <892376D9696C8F4BA94DCCB7B259AC4302090F1B2C@DELL-T310.FRIELEHOME.local>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 09:10:43 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5xaDCGU4LoL/TXSsuzEWb0pl141QARSUnQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheel Tuning
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Any competent Motorcycle shop can do this for you, try the Harley guys as
they work with the larger wheels.  Of course, this assumes the spoke ends
are not rusted to the nipples and can be turned without breaking. BTDT

Bill

'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sean Friele
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 1:01 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Tuning

I live in Seattle and I recently got my Triumph TR3A driving again. Now I
need to get my wheels tuned. Does anyone know if there is someone who could
do that in the Northwest?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 08:44:01 2013
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Subject: [TR] [FWD: TR3 fan]
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 09:30:17 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 11:28:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: net@newenglandtriumphs.org
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive Up a Hill
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Hi,

I got to play in Reading, PA last weekend at the Pagoda Hillclimb. The 
hosts, BMR-SCCA did a great job - LOTS OF FUN. Highly recommended.

I posted a vid on U-toob:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiyLeStVHV4

Enjoy!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 09:48:48 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130625075002.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.1d0ee47cd4.wbe@email09.secureserver.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 10:46:22 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac5xs0kcFWdIs+2PSImjlT1gjOJKhQABvsNw
Subject: [TR] TR3 fan
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Andrew is have technical problems, below is his post:

 
List:  In all the TR3s I have restored to date, I have ditched the fan and
gone for a harmonic dampener and an electric fan.  But now I am restoring a
TR3A to original condition and am working on the old, beat-up mechanical
fan.  Is there a correct way to assemble the balancing mechanism for best
results?  Thanks in advance.
 
Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 09:49:35 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 11:47:21 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1306251122210.4311@isis.mit.edu>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive Up a Hill
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Bob,

Looks to me that you have done this before. Excellent driving! You have 
a bit more skill and courage than I ever had.

Great sounding 6. How many HP?

Bob

On 06/25/2013 11:28 AM, Robert M. Lang wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I got to play in Reading, PA last weekend at the Pagoda Hillclimb. The 
> hosts, BMR-SCCA did a great job - LOTS OF FUN. Highly recommended.
>
> I posted a vid on U-toob:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiyLeStVHV4
>
> Enjoy!
>
> rml

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 10:14:08 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 12:10:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1306251122210.4311@isis.mit.edu>
	<51C9BB89.2060509@adelphia.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive Up a Hill
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, 25 Jun 2013, Bob Labuz wrote:

> Bob,

Hi.

> Looks to me that you have done this before. Excellent driving! You have a bit 
> more skill and courage than I ever had.

That event is technically my first hillclimb. I've been autocrossing since 
"forever", about 20 years.

> Great sounding 6. How many HP?

Thanks - 151 ft/lb of torque. I have gears too, 4.33 Triumph diff and a 
close ratio gearset in the TR6 tranny.

> Bob

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jun 25 16:19:55 2013
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Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2013 15:16:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "SeanFriele@friele.us"
	<SeanFriele@friele.us>
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     The best way to tune wire wheels is to order yourself a new set of
Daytons. Or Panasports. Used wire wheels are not worth the trouble.

    
-Bill in Tehachapi


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2013 23:01:22 -0700
From:
Sean Friele <SeanFriele@friele.us>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Tuning
Message-ID:
   
<892376D9696C8F4BA94DCCB7B259AC4302090F1B2C@DELL-T310.FRIELEHOME.local>
   

I live in Seattle and I recently
got my Triumph TR3A driving again. Now I need
to get my wheels tuned. Does
anyone know if there is someone who could do that
in the Northwest?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 10:44:30 2013
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-6 for sale in Lismore Minnesota
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just an FYI in case you folks know of anyone interested, I have a TR-6 for sale in southwest MN

http://www.cartrucktrader.com/lismore-mn/1973-triumph-tr6-524391160.htm


Thanks

Dean Knips


=============

Reply to Dean Knips at (507)472-8594, not me.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 12:11:28 2013
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From: <lav.rhonda@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 14:07:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1964 TRIUMPH TR4 PLUS NUMEROUS PARTS FOR SALE - Bronx, New York
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Hello Everyone,
I have a 1964 Triumph TR4 PLUS NUMEROUS PARTS FOR SALE.
$4500
The ad can be viewed on the New York Craigslist:
Posting ID: 3865707022
Thank you.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 17:47:06 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 19:44:28 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] speedi sleeve part number for spitfire diff pinion?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Helping out a buddy with a very leaky spit diff.

I've done some searching and did not see mention of speedi seal for
spitfire diff pinion seal area.

I had to put a speedi sleeve on the TR2 and TR4,  I figured the spitfire
would likely need one - leaking like a sieve.

But maybe not finding any reference is a good thing - easy to google tr4
pinon speedi seal and find data.  So maybe spits dont suffer from teh same
thing.

I guess I'll pull it down this weekend and hope it's not grooved.

Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 21:35:14 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2013 20:30:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5yxzq/4j16y3fwQDKevXxHcGknmwAHwxcA
Subject: Re: [TR] speedi sleeve part number for spitfire diff pinion?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I've done some searching and did not see mention of speedi 
> seal for spitfire diff pinion seal area.

They don't always have every application listed.  I've found that you can
also cheat a bit on sizes, they don't have one that is rated to fit the Stag
harmonic balancer but I used Loctite "circular parts mount" to fill the gap
and it seemed to work just fine.

For sure check it out first; but I can't see any reason the Spitfire
wouldn't be subject to the same disease.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jun 26 22:39:13 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Wed, 26 Jun 2013 23:36:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 00:36:39 -0400
Thread-index: Ac5y7wLPgyorAl9xQq2DnV8E8B5/mg==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tomorrow I put the windshield and glass together.  I've done it before so no
issues there (well sort of - as I remember it can be a bear)

 

However, I do have a question about mounting it on the car.  Which is easier
a) mounting the stanchions on the car and then doing the windshield or b)
putting it all together before putting it on the car.

This is a post-60k car so the stanchions fasten to the car by means of a
screw rather than a dzus fastener.  Also, the car came with the mounting
pieces that go between the stanchion and body similar to the earlier models
so the stanchions would have to slide onto the mount.

 

As always - the wisdom of the list is appreciated.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net, Triumphs  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I mounted both mine with the stanchions on, so I don't know how hard it would
be to do the other way.B  I do think you should install the tenax studs before
you install the windshield..that way if they are too long, you can grind them
down and they can't crack the new windshield...just my 2 cents.

Tom



----- Original Message -----


From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 12:36:39 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation

Tomorrow I put the windshield and glass together. B I've done it before so no
issues there (well sort of - as I remember it can be a bear)

B 

However, I do have a question about mounting it on the car. B Which is easier
a) mounting the stanchions on the car and then doing the windshield or b)
putting it all together before putting it on the car.

This is a post-60k car so the stanchions fasten to the car by means of a
screw rather than a dzus fastener. B Also, the car came with the mounting
pieces that go between the stanchion and body similar to the earlier models
so the stanchions would have to slide onto the mount.

B 

As always - the wisdom of the list is appreciated.

B 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 11:51:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have installed my own TS41366L and my friends post 60000 windshields with the stanchions already in place.
it does not allow you to use the little pressed metal ears that hold the bottom weather-strip in place. but they did not appear to be doing much anyway.
Frank



From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 12:36:39 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation

Tomorrow I put the windshield and glass together. B I've done it before so no
issues there (well sort of - as I remember it can be a bear)

B 

However, I do have a question about mounting it on the car. B Which is easier
a) mounting the stanchions on the car and then doing the windshield or b)
putting it all together before putting it on the car.

This is a post-60k car so the stanchions fasten to the car by means of a
screw rather than a dzus fastener. B Also, the car came with the mounting
pieces that go between the stanchion and body similar to the earlier models
so the stanchions would have to slide onto the mount.

B 

As always - the wisdom of the list is appreciated.

B 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 14:21:35 2013
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From: "Carl-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000601ce72ef$eabfed80$c03fc880$@verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 16:16:22 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQHSJ/az/CMykfLxDHwVTjUjHINSpplCffiA
Expiry-date: Wed, 25 Sep 2013 00:00:00 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It looks like I do have a question about the glazing strip..  I have two
versions 

1) from TRF (CD31407)	
	1.5" w; .06" thick; 11' long		
	solid rubber-like material
	much less pliable - will be much harder to install due to thickness
and stiffness
	strip would completely surround the glass	
	"junction" would be at bottom center

2) from Moss (680-455)	
	2.0" w; .05" think; 2 pieces 6' & 5' long	
	rubberized woven material  (sort of looks like web belt material but
much thinner)
	easily formed - wraps over edge of glass easily; still needs to be
worked into frame channel
	one piece for the larger upper frame
	other for across the bottom
	"junctions" would be at bottom corners  
	(could be above the corner on the side if the bottom piece was
pulled up the side a little)

Is there a correct type?  Any issues with the material difference?
Is there an issue with where the junction is on the Moss type?  They will be
joined right where the corner brackets are holding the frame together.

Thanks in advance.

Carl




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 12:37 AM
To: Triumph Mail List
Subject: [TR] TR3A Windshield Installation

Tomorrow I put the windshield and glass together.  I've done it before so no
issues there (well sort of - as I remember it can be a bear)

 However, I do have a question about mounting it on the car.  Which is
easier
a) mounting the stanchions on the car and then doing the windshield or b)
putting it all together before putting it on the car.

This is a post-60k car so the stanchions fasten to the car by means of a
screw rather than a dzus fastener.  Also, the car came with the mounting
pieces that go between the stanchion and body similar to the earlier models
so the stanchions would have to slide onto the mount.

As always - the wisdom of the list is appreciated.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 17:43:20 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: FoT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 17:43:04 -0600
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	7Ze+nxHC6MRvg==
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1296 Housing bores for rods and mains?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have housing bore rod and main specs for a small journal 1296  
Spitfire?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jun 27 20:48:36 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2013 19:48:06 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5zqepzWgABsKcwQVKJ4CGyBOl9/Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR250 Owners - A Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you don't have a TR250 then skip this question ..

 

As you already know when Coventry switched models they sometimes used
whatever parts that they had  on hand. I have a TR4A that was made in Dec of
1967, meaning it was towards the end of it's production and just before the
TR5/250. Anyway, my question is pointed towards the convertible top frames
and windshield frames that were used, and did they mix-n-match.

 

Supposedly the TR250 switched to the turn-lever type securing mechanism and
replaced the hook-latch mechanism used on most TR4A's. Yet I came across a
top frame from a TR250 that uses the TR4A hook-latch. I'm not sure if this
is an aberration or not.

 

So here's my question .. which one do you have? And do you know if it's
original?

 

I have a feeling that both were used, which means that the windscreen frame
would also be different.

 

The reason I ask is that I'm in the middle of switching my TR4A to a TR250
setup, which I thought was the turn-lever type until I came across this
aberration.

 

Any words of wisdom is appreciated.

Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 01:03:24 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 02:02:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] parking brake mechanism
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

hi.

I am planning this weekend to replace the ratchet thingee on my 3b.  its
broken, and I have the new one in hand.

is it (hopefully) as easy as it looks?

thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 04:07:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 11:07:09 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>, "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Owners - A Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 John Donnelly wrote:
As you already know when Coventry switched models they
sometimes used
whatever parts that they had  on hand. 

I stand to be
corrected but ISTR the windscreen for the TR4/4a also fitted TR5/250 and TR6.
My own TR5 had the same top rail hood release mechanism as the 250. I know
from personal experience that a soft top from at 5/250 or a 6 will easily fit
on a 4A hood frame without further modification because my own earlier 4A had
them fitted when they were vandalised.

So how come a 250 has over-centre
latches? I'd be very surprised if this was a factory fitment and I think
there's a much greater possibility it was fitted after production as a result
of accidental damage prior to shipment or it got damaged during shipment - as
many cars were. Wish I still had the pix of cars subjected to marine insurance
repair.

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 05:42:49 2013
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	-0400 (EDT)
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:42:16 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1372419736;
	bh=SXDFEQXkvR5Xxh12B6YqRdbCGsjya4S7NsUxl0TNBQs=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] parking brake mechanism
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Yes, it is.  The tricky part is keeping everything in position during 
assembly since there are three or four things that need to be manipulated at the 
same time.  Pretty self-evident.

Dave

In a message dated 6/28/2013 2:02:59 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dave@ranteer.com writes: 
> I am planning this weekend to replace the ratchet thingee on my 3b.  its
> broken, and I have the new one in hand.
> 
> is it (hopefully) as easy as it looks?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 06:33:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 12:33:06 +0000 (UTC)
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Subject: [TR] Is this for real?
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An interesting TR3, 300 from the end of small mouth production. Are there any others out there like this? 



Ebay auction 261235978508 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 06:42:12 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 07:41:52 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Owners - A Question
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Mine, # 2004  has the turn lever type mechanism, another I owned earlier had 
the later mechanism as well, it was a later production date, but don't 
recall the exact number.  Does the top frame on the TR250 with the earlier 
latches have the part of the frame that secures the sides of the top above 
the windows with velcro? that was the other difference in the top frames 
from the 4A to the 250 (that I am aware of).

 I suspect it is an earlier part fitted, when I and others commonly used 
these cars as daily drivers back in the day it was quite common to swap out 
parts from another car when something was needed.

But it could have happened, who knows.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 06:42:46 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:41:50 -0400
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I like the turn buckle in the picture of the diff..... That does look like
a fun project car.

I'd bet money there are lots out there like this,  Someone buys them and
intends to restore and they sit.....   I hauled my tr2 with me for 30 years
while trying to find time to fix it....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 07:59:13 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <fogbro1@comcast.net>, "'triumph list'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 06:58:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5z+7FdvP4mUuTsTE+LLKasCz21LgACiOHg
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
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> An interesting TR3, 300 from the end of small mouth 
> production.

Where did you find the commission number?

> Are there any others out there like this? 

Like it in what way?  Sure there are still a few "barn finds" out there, tho
the number is decreasing all the time.  And for many years, only the "wide
mouth" front apron was available as a service part, so there are a few
earlier cars wearing it.  TS13571L came to me with the later apron mounted
(tho I have since converted back to the earlier apron).

The separate turn signals at the rear, I believe are correct for this car.
And the various other bodges are typical, though I've not seen that
turnbuckle before.  Any guesses as to it's purpose?  Brake adjustment?

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 10:32:53 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:31:38 -0700
From: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The turnbuckle is to shorten the handbrake cable from the balancer to the
left hand brake.  A bit dodgy.  I had a Bronco II that used had a specific
gadget that looks like this:

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dor/03006-007.jpg

-Malcolm


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > An interesting TR3, 300 from the end of small mouth
> > production.
>
> Where did you find the commission number?
>
> > Are there any others out there like this?
>
> Like it in what way?  Sure there are still a few "barn finds" out there,
> tho
> the number is decreasing all the time.  And for many years, only the "wide
> mouth" front apron was available as a service part, so there are a few
> earlier cars wearing it.  TS13571L came to me with the later apron mounted
> (tho I have since converted back to the earlier apron).
>
> The separate turn signals at the rear, I believe are correct for this car.
> And the various other bodges are typical, though I've not seen that
> turnbuckle before.  Any guesses as to it's purpose?  Brake adjustment?
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/malcolm@ipatch.ca

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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 09:43:19 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 9:31 AM, Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca> wrote:

> The turnbuckle is to shorten the handbrake cable from the balancer to the
> left hand brake.  A bit dodgy.  I had a Bronco II that used had a specific
> gadget that looks like this:
>
> http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dor/03006-007.jpg



I've seen those & am pretty sure it is assembled backwards in that pic.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 11:20:20 2013
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To: "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 12:10:24 -0500
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Used to be available from J.C. Whitney.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
To: 
Cc: "triumph list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Is this for real?
Date: Fri, Jun 28, 2013 11:31 am


The turnbuckle is to shorten the handbrake cable from the balancer to the
left hand brake.  A bit dodgy.  I had a Bronco II that used had a specific
gadget that looks like this:

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dor/03006-007.jpg

-Malcolm


On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > An interesting TR3, 300 from the end of small mouth
> > production.
>
> Where did you find the commission number?
>
> > Are there any others out there like this?
>
> Like it in what way?  Sure there are still a few "barn finds" out there,
> tho
> the number is decreasing all the time.  And for many years, only the "wide
> mouth" front apron was available as a service part, so there are a few
> earlier cars wearing it.  TS13571L came to me with the later apron mounted
> (tho I have since converted back to the earlier apron).
>
> The separate turn signals at the rear, I believe are correct for this car.
> And the various other bodges are typical, though I've not seen that
> turnbuckle before.  Any guesses as to it's purpose?  Brake adjustment?
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 11:53:07 2013
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 17:52:38 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
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---- Malcolm <malcolm@ipatch.ca> wrote: 
> The turnbuckle is to shorten the handbrake cable from the balancer to the
> left hand brake. 

Ah, I see it now.  When I looked the first time, I thought one end was connected to the diff.  Thanks.

Actually a pretty neat "homebrew" version of the classic cable shortener that you showed, IMO.  I had one of those on my first car (a 62 Chevy Biscayne) as well.  The main disadvantage is that usually, the cable is too long because it has started to fail.

That Biscayne was a total POS, and yet worth every penny of the $15 I paid for it.  Had exactly two factory options, an AM radio (with tubes) and an oil filter!

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jun 28 14:51:39 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
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Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2013 16:49:52 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
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albeit the one in the linked pic is assembled wrong   :-)
Hook should be in the valley to pull the cable in between the two rollers 
(thus shortening the cable
...they are actually a lot more robust than you'd think.

...work great on cattle gates using wire to keep gates from drooping

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Malcolm" <malcolm@ipatch.ca>
Cc: "triumph list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?


> The turnbuckle is to shorten the handbrake cable from the balancer to the
> left hand brake.  A bit dodgy.  I had a Bronco II that used had a specific
> gadget that looks like this:
>
> http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dor/03006-007.jpg
>
> -Malcolm
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> > An interesting TR3, 300 from the end of small mouth
>> > production.
>>
>> Where did you find the commission number?
>>
>> > Are there any others out there like this?
>>
>> Like it in what way?  Sure there are still a few "barn finds" out there,
>> tho
>> the number is decreasing all the time.  And for many years, only the 
>> "wide
>> mouth" front apron was available as a service part, so there are a few
>> earlier cars wearing it.  TS13571L came to me with the later apron 
>> mounted
>> (tho I have since converted back to the earlier apron).
>>
>> The separate turn signals at the rear, I believe are correct for this 
>> car.
>> And the various other bodges are typical, though I've not seen that
>> turnbuckle before.  Any guesses as to it's purpose?  Brake adjustment?
>>
>> -- Randall
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/malcolm@ipatch.ca
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 07:33:05 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 09:32:28 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Did this TR2 belong to anyone on the list?
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/3858208573.html

Looks pretty!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 07:46:17 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 09:45:35 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this for real?
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I was looking at Billl Lynns TR2 survivor list - it looks like ~20% or so
of the TR2 production survives today (plus any escapes).

So if we apply a similar survivor rate to TR3 production of approx 11k
units - we could see about 2675 cars out there in the wild today in
basically any non-scrapped condition..

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 07:57:29 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 06:50:17 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Did this TR2 belong to anyone on the list?
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Wow -- and I don't usually say 'wow' about TRs for sale.  That appears to
me to be a fine example.

Can't fault them for asking top dollar -- it may well be a top dollar car.

Geo

On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 6:32 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/3858208573.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 It does look pretty...and very expensive. Worth it? I can't say.

I'm a bit puzzled about it having been "upgraded to 12v" from the original 6V
system? :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jun 29, 2013 9:33 am
Subject: [TR] Did this TR2 belong to anyone on the list?


http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/3858208573.html

Looks pretty!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 08:27:56 2013
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 09:21:45 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Did this TR2 belong to anyone on the list?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think my TR3B originally had 6V in much of its wiring.  (smile)

But the new harness fixed all that.



On 6/29/13, Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald@aol.com> wrote:
>  It does look pretty...and very expensive. Worth it? I can't say.
>
> I'm a bit puzzled about it having been "upgraded to 12v" from the original
> 6V
> system? :)
>
>
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
> Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
> To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Jun 29, 2013 9:33 am
> Subject: [TR] Did this TR2 belong to anyone on the list?
>
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/3858208573.html
>
> Looks pretty!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 10:30:32 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 12:24:12 -0400
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Subject: [TR] GT6 Manual
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Anyone have a factory or Bentley workshop manual for GT6 available?  Please
email me direct.  Thanks, 

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 11:01:36 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <011a01ce74e5$18bd3930$4a37ab90$@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2013 12:55:09 -0400
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Jim - I have a factory manual and a Bentley (I think). Do you have a
specific question or maybe need some copies of pages?

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 12:24 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] GT6 Manual

Anyone have a factory or Bentley workshop manual for GT6 available?  Please
email me direct.  Thanks, 

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jun 29 14:40:03 2013
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E97B3260044A49A4A3E30FB56D6B05BB@oscar>
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Healeys] Triumph Stag
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FYI.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Healeys] Triumph Stag
Date: 	Sat, 29 Jun 2013 14:24:50 -0600
From: 	David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: 	<healeys@autox.team.net>



  A local competition is closing up shop and has a  Stag for sale. All
original, says the top is new. No pictures.. call me if you are REALLY
wanting it. It's priced really cheap.. ~$3000.00 US

dave

  

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
1954 BN2  1959 AN5
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 08:56:38 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 10:52:24 -0400
	FILETIME=[6F30B2D0:01CE75A1]
Subject: [TR] You Need a TR8
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Time to part with the TR8, Too many cars, not enough time. 1980 with 86XXX
miles. I took a bunch of pictures, top, bottom, under carpet. If you go to
http://sdrv.ms/113Ehec you can see the pictures as well as a write up showing
all the parts that have been replaced over the last 5 years or so also a
listing of its faults. The only evidence of rust is some paint bubbles at the
bottom front corners of the doors and I have included pictures of those areas.
Looks like the car was rustproofed when new and it really did its job. Not a
show car but runs good, paint fair, interior panels and carpet have been
replaced. Miata seats. Top is 3 years old. Strong runner, has been close to
FTD at the TRF Summer Party the last 3 years. Pictures were taken in the shop
on the lift, if it ever stops raining here I pull it outside and add some more
pictures. I think the lift pictures are what you want to see anyhow.  Asking
$6500. Original seats and a big stack of parts go with it if you want them.

Thanks,
Marty
440-225-0209

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 10:45:50 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 12:45:33 -0400
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Hoping my post comes through - I was having computer issues last week.

 

I am rebuilding a TR3 engine and have a problem in that the pistons are fine
to re-use, but I need liners.  The ring gap is fine at the bottom of the
liners but way to much at the top (and there is no ring groove).  Makes me
wonder if a previous owner had to work the  tops to get the pistons out.

 

Anyway, (a) does anyone have a set of good liners, or (b) know where I can
buy liners without having also to buy pistons and rings?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 11:48:42 2013
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] You Need a TR8
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Looks nice, it is even one of my favorite TR8 colors.

It would be a fun car to drive from Salt Lake to the Kastner Cup event.  But
unless I get a *REALLY* generous Team.Net donation it ain't gonna happen.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 12:12:28 2013
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From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 upholstery question
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I have a question regarding TR3 upholstery.  I have the fuzzy round rope stuff
that trims out the door openings.  It is fuzzy and round and it has a fabric
flange.  I presume that that fabric flange gets glued to the inner metal
surface underneath the trim (carpet in the footwells and the panel behind the
door).  Is this correct or is there something else I am missing?

TIA



Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <8D043D423F74942-1034-3B561@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 13:41:14 -0500
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 upholstery question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Opinions will vary but I just put it at the front and rear of the door
openings, none along the threshold on my '58.

I can send a picture offline if you like.

Bill
Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 30, 2013, at 1:09 PM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> I have a question regarding TR3 upholstery.  I have the fuzzy round rope
stuff
> that trims out the door openings.  It is fuzzy and round and it has a
fabric
> flange.  I presume that that fabric flange gets glued to the inner metal
> surface underneath the trim (carpet in the footwells and the panel behind
the
> door).  Is this correct or is there something else I am missing?
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From: "Mike Coe" <coefront@shaw.ca>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 12:47:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Marty's TR8
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow. Martybs TR8 is a great example even with needs Marty suggests are
required. Act fast here folks. These cars are attracting a great amount of
European and Japanese interest. As one Car Magazine quotes this month, grab
while whilst you can. Values are very much on the rise as Guys are now
seriously looking for these cars. Theybre comfortable, have a wider cockpit,
great seats, awesome powerful engine (the Rover V8 open for even more
potential power), and go like the clappers. In third gear one can climb a
brick wall {well, not quite, but you get the idea!}. Mike Coe b
coefront@shaw.ca b Calgary

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 20:53:43 2013
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From: <lav.rhonda@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 22:53:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] I'm selling my 1964 Triumph TR4 with LOADS of parts
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Hi,
I've been getting your emails for a number of years and would like to know how
I can post my Triumph TR4 with NUMEROUS parts for sale - $4500
Here is my ad on the New York Craigslist - would you be able to post it for
me?
Thanks,
Anthony - 718-931-6381
Here is the ad: PICTURES ARE IN THE AD: Posting ID: 3865707022

1964 TRIUMPH TR4 for restoration - stored for many years in my garage.
ALL PARTS ARE THERE - PLUS YOU HAVE ENOUGH PARTS FOR ANOTHER...
Comes with three window hardtop and great softop.
Interior in great condition.
Comes with NUMEROUS parts which include (4) 60 spoke wire rims with tires
(with hubs) - extra rear fenders which are in good shape - extra front fenders
- new sills - extra complete engine -extra transmission - three grills which I
believe one is from a Triumph TR250 - extra radiator - and LOTS of new or
original parts that are in boxes that I have bought throughout the years. Plus
BOOKS.
I am truly sorry to let this project go.
- Sorry will not part out - looking to have space in my garage back...
EMAILS WITHOUT PHONE NUMBERS WILL BE DELETED DUE TO SPAMMERS.
Thank you - I appreciate it.
Bronx, NY location
lav.rhonda@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 21:25:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 21:25:11 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51D0AFEA.9020105@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Team.Net update
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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In addition to working on bad links that still point the *wrong* place,
I may work on improving the HTML -> plain text filters.  If everyone
abandoned the email list in favor of the forum it would not be an
issue, but that ain't gonna happen.

Hopefully I don't break anything in the process of "improving" the
functionality of Team.Net.

mjb.



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<html>
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    <meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
      http-equiv="Content-Type">
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  <body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
    In addition to working on bad links that still point the <b>wrong</b>
    place,<br>
    I may work on improving the HTML -&gt; plain text filters.&nbsp; If
    everyone<br>
    abandoned the email list in favor of the forum it would not be an<br>
    issue, but that ain't gonna happen.<br>
    <br>
    Hopefully I don't break anything in the process of "improving" the<br>
    functionality of Team.Net.<br>
    <br>
    mjb.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 21:38:15 2013
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References: <mailman.8.1372615202.3845.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 23:32:06 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [TR] Overdrive Diagnosis
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The overdrive quit in my TR4A.  Topped up the transmission oil; no joy.


Investigating shows the solenoid is electrically energized but it needs a l=
ittle push to actuate.  Then the plunger remains engaged until electrically=
 disengaged.  I suspect the pull-in coil is shot and only the holding coil =
is working.  I think I need a new solenoid.  I removed it for bench testing=
 which was inconclusive because the solenoid isn't doing any work.  I'd lik=
e a second opinion before I order a new one.
Thanks for your thoughts,
George Haynes






=20


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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'><font class=3D"Apple-style-=
span" size=3D"2">The overdrive quit in my TR4A. &nbsp;Topped up the transmi=
ssion oil; no joy.</font>
<div><font class=3D"Apple-style-span" size=3D"2"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font class=3D"Apple-style-span" size=3D"2">Investigating shows the so=
lenoid is electrically energized but it needs a little push to actuate. &nb=
sp;Then the plunger remains engaged until electrically disengaged. &nbsp;I =
suspect the pull-in coil is shot and only the holding coil is working. &nbs=
p;I think I need a new solenoid. &nbsp;I removed it for bench testing which=
 was inconclusive because the solenoid isn't doing any work. &nbsp;I'd like=
 a second opinion before I order a new one.</font>
<div><font class=3D"Apple-style-span" size=3D"2">Thanks for your thoughts,<=
/font></div>

<div><font class=3D"Apple-style-span" size=3D"2">George Haynes<br>
</font><br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family: helvetica, arial; font-size: 10pt; color: black;=
 ">
<div id=3D"AOLMsgPart_0_63828981-a8d4-44e4-abd7-5973763714df" style=3D"marg=
in: 0px;font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;font-size: 12px;col=
or: #000;background-color: #fff;"><pre style=3D"font-size: 9pt;"><tt>
</tt></pre>
</div>
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</div>
</div>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jun 30 22:39:18 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'George Haynes'" <ghaynestr4@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2013 21:36:22 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac52DG6+MsJzDOteQ1arxtHdYXHTPgABoawQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Overdrive Diagnosis
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> Investigating shows the solenoid is electrically energized 
> but it needs a little push to actuate.  Then the plunger 
> remains engaged until electrically disengaged.  I suspect the 
> pull-in coil is shot and only the holding coil is working.

Probably just the contacts; but the cure is the same.  Time for a new one.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

