From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 00:27:07 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 00:23:30 -0600
References: <mailman.8.1372615202.3845.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Overdrive Diagnosis
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same symptoms with my overdrive and suspected the solenoid  
first also.  When I ran a lead from the brown to the yellow/purple  
wire on the OD relay the solenoid clicked and pulled the actuator  
lever up just as it should. The relay (which amazingly enough  
conformed to my #1 rule of "Bud, it's the last thing you fixed that  
failed") was the problem. I put a new one in less than two years ago.

I believe Steve Yost and Randall Young pointed out that the relay  
could be bad (not putting out enough amperes because of burn contacts)  
even though it put out the correct voltage which basically wouldn't  
provide enough ummffff to the solenoid to pull it up but does provide  
enough to hold it if got pulled up. A new OD relay fixed the problem.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Jun 30, 2013, at 9:32 PM, George Haynes wrote:

> The overdrive quit in my TR4A.  Topped up the transmission oil; no  
> joy.
>
> Investigating shows the solenoid is electrically energized but it  
> needs a little push to actuate.  Then the plunger remains engaged  
> until electrically disengaged.  I suspect the pull-in coil is shot  
> and only the holding coil is working.  I think I need a new  
> solenoid.  I removed it for bench testing which was inconclusive  
> because the solenoid isn't doing any work.  I'd like a second  
> opinion before I order a new one.
> Thanks for your thoughts,
> George Haynes
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 03:07:16 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 05:06:14 -0400 (EDT)
To: wbeech@flash.net
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 upholstery question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks.  How did you attach it?

Dave

In a message dated 6/30/2013 1:41:25 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> 
> Opinions will vary but I just put it at the front and rear of the door 
> openings, none along the threshold on my '58. 
> 
> I can send a picture offline if you like. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <901fe.1f60a318.3f02a086@cs.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:12:49 -0500
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 upholstery question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Like you said, on the "A" pillar use some contact cement then the side panel
covers the tab.  On the "B" pillar you can tack it onto that strip that looks
like wadded paper, then it also gets covered with the rear side panel.  To
finish it at the top, cut the rubber tube a little short and tuck the fabric
inside.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 1, 2013, at 4:06 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:

> Thanks.  How did you attach it?
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 6/30/2013 1:41:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
wbeech@flash.net writes:
>>
>> Opinions will vary but I just put it at the front and rear of the door
openings, none along the threshold on my '58.
>>
>> I can send a picture offline if you like.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 07:26:09 2013
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From: Greg <tr4boy@surewest.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 06:25:32 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine rotation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I should know this but, standing in front of my TR-4 does the running engine
turn clockwise or counterclockwise?

thanks
Greg

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 07:41:29 2013
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Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 06:29:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Greg <tr4boy@surewest.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Clockwise.

If you've ever had a TR with a crank start this becomes easy to remember.

Geo


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 6:25 AM, Greg <tr4boy@surewest.net> wrote:

> I should know this but, standing in front of my TR-4 does the running
> engine
> turn clockwise or counterclockwise?
>
> thanks
> Greg
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Greg'" <tr4boy@surewest.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0F3866C9-A875-4907-A770-B78D57D60658@surewest.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 08:35:23 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac52XpKqylR1aaFnS+WRg4djXqsB1AAANu9w
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Clockwise is how I crank my TR3. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 8:26 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine rotation

I should know this but, standing in front of my TR-4 does the running engine
turn clockwise or counterclockwise?

thanks
Greg

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't remember.  The best idea is to push the car forward in top gear and see what happens.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg" <tr4boy@surewest.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2013 8:25:32 AM
> Subject: [TR] Engine rotation
> I should know this but, standing in front of my TR-4 does the running
> engine
> turn clockwise or counterclockwise?
> 
> thanks
> Greg
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 07:59:44 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 06:57:37 -0700
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> I should know this but, standing in front of my TR-4 does the 
> running engine turn clockwise or counterclockwise?

It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 11:01:46 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 12:53:55 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 upholstery question
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OK, great.  I'm not way off base (for a change).  Thanks.  BTW, I forgot 
about the tack strips at the B pillar.  Mine are wood (57 TR3) but may not be 
original - not that much at all on this car is.

Dave

In a message dated 7/1/2013 8:12:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> Like you said, on the "A" pillar use some contact cement then the side 
> panel covers the tab.  On the "B" pillar you can tack it onto that strip that 
> looks like wadded paper, then it also gets covered with the rear side 
> panel.  To finish it at the top, cut the rubber tube a little short and tuck 
> the fabric inside. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 19:46:06 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 21:44:15 -0400
References: <BLU168-W626DFC5D0478895448CAF6BA700@phx.gbl>
	FILETIME=[A971B780:01CE76C5]
Subject: [TR] You Still Need a TR8 $6500
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I added some outdoor shots to the group of pictures found at
http://sdrv.ms/113Ehec the car is located in Northern Ohio.

 Thanks,
 Marty
 440-225-0209

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  1 21:17:31 2013
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Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2013 21:10:51 -0600
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I'd love it, but I'm still $6,498.72 short.  And a Team.Net fund drive 
right now
would look suspicious ;-)  Hopefully it goes to a good home.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 13:34:41 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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For those that have raced Virginia International Raceway (VIR), word came
today that the great oak at the south turn has fallen.  :-(

Bill
Raced motorcycles in the 60s.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 13:51:06 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 1:34 PM, WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> For those that have raced Virginia International Raceway (VIR), word came
> today that the great oak at the south turn has fallen.  :-(
>


Sad but true:

http://virnow.com/2013/07/02/oak-tree-down-2/

I've been to that corner several times over the year. It won't be the same.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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But the pit crew can get it back on course, right?

In a message dated 7/2/2013 1:41:50 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> For those that have raced Virginia International Raceway (VIR), word came
> today that the great oak at the south turn has fallen.  :-(

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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 15:04:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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duct tape....maybe 2 rolls
 
Frank
 

________________________________
 From:
"Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent:
Tuesday, July 2, 2013 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
  

But the pit
crew can get it back on course, right?

In a message dated 7/2/2013 1:41:50 PM
Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> For those that have raced
Virginia International Raceway (VIR), word came
> today that the great oak at
the south turn has fallen.  :-(

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  2 19:08:24 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0F3866C9-A875-4907-A770-B78D57D60658@surewest.net>
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 20:06:24 -0500
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Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?

Mike

> 
> It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.
> 
> -- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  2 19:38:35 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 20:30:26 -0500
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probably in the southern hemisphere . . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Marr 
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 8:06 PM 
To: 'Randall' ; triumphs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation 

Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?

Mike

> 
> It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.
> 
> -- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  2 19:39:03 2013
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Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:33:27 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Michael Marr <mmarr@notwires.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
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On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 6:06 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr@notwires.com> wrote:

> Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?
>

Some Fiats as I recall -- possibly the 850 and perhaps small Hondas.  I
suppose my VW does too but that sort of depends on which end of the engine
you think is the front.  Most VW enthusiasts subscribe to the nomenclature
that 'front means front' i.e. the end with the flywheel is the front of the
engine so it, too, runs anticlockwise.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  2 19:56:03 2013
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Hahaha! I like it!

> 
> probably in the southern hemisphere . . . .

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 07:55:34 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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Those boys in the pit crew can fix anything!

In a message dated 7/2/2013 5:04:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> duct tape....maybe 2 rolls
>  
> Frank
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>
> 
> 
> But the pit crew can get it back on course, right?
> 
> In a message dated 7/2/2013 1:41:50 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> wbeech@flash.net writes: 
> >For those that have raced Virginia International Raceway (VIR), word came
> >today that the great oak at the south turn has fallen.  :-(

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 06:00:57 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 08:00:42 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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If a tree falls in a forest...

I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear 
engine and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the 
two applications.

I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion 
engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so 
you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.

I rank these up there with other urban myths.

Dave

In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mmarr@notwires.com writes: 
> Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?
> 
> Mike
> 
> >
> >It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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And the Saab?

In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:39:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr@gmail.com writes: 
> Some Fiats as I recall -- possibly the 850 and perhaps small Hondas.  I
> suppose my VW does too but that sort of depends on which end of the engine
> you think is the front.  Most VW enthusiasts subscribe to the nomenclature
> that 'front means front' i.e. the end with the flywheel is the front of 
> the
> engine so it, too, runs anticlockwise.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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" And the Saab?"

I just toured the SAAB museum last weekend, I am not sure if the old two 
strokes ran clockwise or counterclockwise, but the SAAB guys told me that 
the engine didn't care if it was running forwards or backwards, and they 
could accidently be started and run backwards.....

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/DSCN0190_zps7373618b.jpg

By the way, the place, in Ft. Dodge, IA, is quite a little treasure trove of 
those quirky little cars.

Greg Lemon 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 06:44:25 2013
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 I forgot.  It is common practice in dual engined boats to run the engines in
opposite directions.  I guess this cancels out the reaction torque from the
props.  All you need do is to swap out the camshaft, the distributor, the oil
pump and the water pump.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:00 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation


If a tree falls in a forest...

I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear engine
and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the two
applications.

I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion
engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so
you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.

I rank these up there with other urban myths.

Dave

In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
mmarr@notwires.com writes:

Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?

Mike

>
>It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Cool.  Those old cars, the ones before they became cliche, are really cool.
Not very practical but cool.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>




" And the Saab?"

I just toured the SAAB museum last weekend, I am not sure if the old two
strokes ran clockwise or counterclockwise, but the SAAB guys told me that
the engine didn't care if it was running forwards or backwards, and they
could accidently be started and run backwards.....

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb196/grglmn/DSCN0190_zps7373618b.jpg

By the way, the place, in Ft. Dodge, IA, is quite a little treasure trove of
those quirky little cars.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 08:15:05 2013
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 Right! Especially if that pit crew is....

wait for it....

the Wood Brothers.

;)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>


Those boys in the pit crew can fix anything!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 08:46:38 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 09:46:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] FL DMV
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Red letter day yesterday.   TS81802LO has been titled... No tags yet, need to get insurance first.  (but I couldn't get insurance until it was titled - i.e. proof of ownership).  I tried going to a different DMV office - with last NY registration, two prior owner bill of sale, bill of sale to me, BMHIT and Standard Triumph Build Records from TRA.   No problems other than I had to get a VIN verification. 
 
With a little bit of research, I have the full pedigree.  I am the 4th person to own the car. 
 I did get the date corrected to match build records so now it is a 1960....
 
It was built 8 Dec 1960; dispatched 29 Sept 1961 to Japan... (it evidently sat in coventry for 10 months)
Original purchase price ~3,000  
Brought to the states in April, 1963 .  First stateside registration was May 1, 1963; last expired on 04/30/72.  Mileage at last registration (1971): 26,878. 
Sold in May, 1972 for $500, Transmission was 'trash'
 
The second owner (now 83) had an unusual name and is still living at same address so I was able to talk with him.  He had the car for 15 years and didn't do much to it except fix front end accident damage that occurred after he purchased it when he backed into it in the garage with his truck. included painting in maroon over the original black.  (that explains the inner fender damage.)  He never drove it as he never got around to repairing the transmission.  Engine was running when he sold it for $100 in 1987.
 
3rd owner purchased a new O/D transmission in 1992 (have receipt); Purchased an additional $3500 in new parts over 4 year period to 1995.  Got divorced in early 1996; car sat in ex-wife's garage until she made him put it up for sale in Dec, 1997.   Asking $1000 - described as a dismantled TR3 with partially rebuilt engine/transmission.  i.e. basket case.
 
I bought it for $650 sight unseen - primarily as a parts car for my then rolling restoration.  (I sold that car in 2002 to fund the restoration of this one)
 
So according to the records - I am the 'second' owner :^) of a ~30,000mi TR3.  No wonder the engine didn't need much work.   
 
Carl
1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

On Jun 20, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> I am having issues with FL DMV on getting the TR3 registered. The 
> Bill of Sale is dated 1998; the car was last registered in NY in 
> 1987. The BOS is not notarized. The PO is no longer at that 
> address (no forwarding address). Any ideas? (Internet search came 
> up with 83 possibilities nationwide - no guarantee that he is still 
> alive)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 12:22:48 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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I have recently acquired a 71 TR6 that has been laid up for approximately 10
years.

Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to see
if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.

All electrical systems appear to be working properly, but when I turn the
key to "position 3", I am not getting any voltage to the starter solenoid,
so I suspect either a bad ignition switch or a broken "red and white wire".
Red and white wire has no continuity to ground, so if it is broken, it's
somewhere in the harness, as is isn't grounded between the ignition switch
and the terminal.

It would appear that removing the ignition switch is going to be a major
undertaking unless I'm missing something. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 12:53:01 2013
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Jonas,

IF the 71 is anything like the 72 then you will have to remove the dash 
in order to remove the switch. On the 72, the switch is secured to the 
steering with shear bolts. I had to dremel a grove in the bolts in order 
to get a screw driver to remove them. If you are industrious enough, you 
may just have to remove the speedo and tack. That might offer enough 
room, not sure. Once the switch portion of the switch is removed, the 
electrical portion just snaps off the back. You can then operate the 
electrical switch without a key or check continuity etc.

But before you do all that, have someone put a volt meter between the 
solenoid and the red/white wire at the starter and then attempt to start 
the engine. IF there is no voltage to the solenoid then either the 
switch is bad or a broken wire as you suspected. The battery ground on 
the 6 is attached in two places, the body and the engine. Make sure this 
is clean and intact.

Bob.

  On 07/03/2013 02:14 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> I have recently acquired a 71 TR6 that has been laid up for approximately 10
> years.
>
> Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to see
> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.
>
> All electrical systems appear to be working properly, but when I turn the
> key to "position 3", I am not getting any voltage to the starter solenoid,
> so I suspect either a bad ignition switch or a broken "red and white wire".
> Red and white wire has no continuity to ground, so if it is broken, it's
> somewhere in the harness, as is isn't grounded between the ignition switch
> and the terminal.
>
> It would appear that removing the ignition switch is going to be a major
> undertaking unless I'm missing something.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 13:23:58 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
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Oh, are you branching out into comedy?

In a message dated 7/3/2013 9:14:45 AM Central Daylight Time, 
zoboherald@aol.com writes: 
> Right! Especially if that pit crew is....
> 
> wait for it....
> 
> the Wood Brothers.
> 
> ;)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 15:31:06 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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Where are you trying to measure continuity to ground on the Red/White wire? 
 If you are checking at the ignition switch then there may be a break in 
the wire.  I can't tell from the wiring diagram I have if there are any 
connectors between here and there but if there is check there first.  Also make 
sure you have continuity to between the engine block and battery negative.

If you measure nothing then try jumpering 12 volts to the Red/White wire on 
the solenoid and see if the starter engages.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2013 1:22:30 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jagmog@hotmail.com writes: 
> I have recently acquired a 71 TR6 that has been laid up for approximately 
> 10
> years.
> 
> Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to see
> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.
> 
> All electrical systems appear to be working properly, but when I turn the
> key to "position 3", I am not getting any voltage to the starter solenoid,
> so I suspect either a bad ignition switch or a broken "red and white 
> wire".
> Red and white wire has no continuity to ground, so if it is broken, it's
> somewhere in the harness, as is isn't grounded between the ignition switch
> and the terminal.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:52:38 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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It would appear that removing the ignition switch is going to be a major
undertaking unless I'm missing something. 

Yep! You can blame the German's
for that. 
They were the first (or among the first) to specify steering column
ignition/starter switches instead of key start, or key and button.
Originally, Deutschland specified only a German lock from WASO would be
acceptable and that had shear off bolt heads too - and the rest is history.
Everyone in Europe later did the same on all car makes for all markets so that
fifty years down the track, enthusiasts would have even more fun getting their
cars to start :) Ya can't beat forward planning!
 
Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 13:55:56 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 15:53:43 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	<625829DC027446D99935892599F63712@livingroompc>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
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On 7/3/2013 8:49 AM, Dave Massey wrote:
> Cool.  Those old cars, the ones before they became cliche, are really cool.
> Not very practical but cool.

Some years back, I had a Sonett III.  Cool but impractical about sums it up.

Oh, and the body was fibreglas, but the floor pan rusted Just like a 
Triumph...


Jeff Scarbrough
corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 13:57:06 2013
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Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 15:56:56 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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On 7/3/2013 2:14 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:
> Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to see
> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.

Before you go to all that other trouble, why not spin up the pump with a 
drill and a large screwdriver bit?

I think it spins clockwise...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 14:10:36 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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On 7/3/2013 3:56 PM, Jeff wrote:
> On 7/3/2013 2:14 PM, Jonas Payne wrote:
>> Engine turns over by hand, so I'm ready to blip it with the starter to
>> see
>> if it builds oil pressure before firing it up.
>
> Before you go to all that other trouble, why not spin up the pump with a
> drill and a large screwdriver bit?
>
> I think it spins clockwise...

Of course, I meant counter-clockwise.  Or maybe widdershins?

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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Dave Massey'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <fbe6d.f6877d4.3f056c6a@cs.com>
	<8D04601ABABF5BA-15FC-4ED39@webmail-d171.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 17:28:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation
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That's why Detroit Diesels (two stoke) were so popular for marine
applications. The cam shaft and the balance shaft were swapped with a few
other changes. 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 8:41 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation

 I forgot.  It is common practice in dual engined boats to run the engines
in opposite directions.  I guess this cancels out the reaction torque from
the props.  All you need do is to swap out the camshaft, the distributor,
the oil pump and the water pump.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:00 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation


If a tree falls in a forest...

I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear engine
and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the two
applications.

I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion
engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so
you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.

I rank these up there with other urban myths.

Dave

In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
mmarr@notwires.com writes:

Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?

Mike

>
>It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 17:53:25 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Ignition Switch
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm with Dave. Why don't you just Hotwire it?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 17:22:08 2013
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To: Dave1massey@cs.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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 Branch out? No; I'm firmly rooted in it. :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree


Oh, are you branching out into comedy?

In a message dated 7/3/2013 9:14:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
zoboherald@aol.com writes:
> Right! Especially if that pit crew is....
>
> wait for it....
>
> the Wood Brothers.
>
> ;)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 18:54:35 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Subject: [TR] Overdrive OK!
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To The List, especially: Bud, Randall and Greg:


My new overdrive solenoid arrived today and it solved the non-engagement
problem.  It now engages a bit slower than did the old one (when it worked)
but never misses a beat.  A great car back to 100% again.  Thank you all!



George
CTC 55423LO
1965 TR4A, IRS, Surrey top, RATCO Frame

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 19:52:29 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'George Haynes'" <ghaynestr4@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 18:52:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac54UQ+dgdkSJ7TySsu+Kp1ZmcSaHAAB24YA
Subject: Re: [TR] Overdrive OK!
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> It now engages a bit slower than did 
> the old one (when it worked) but never misses a beat.

Be sure to check how far the plunger can drop when not engaged.  If it drops
too far, the solenoid may have a hard time picking it up (which might be
related to your slower engagement, and possibly even related to why the old
solenoid failed).  Early units had an adjustment there (which sometimes
works loose and falls out); later units used a rubber bumper (that is
frequently missing).  

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 19:23:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] water pump
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are there several different water pumps for tr-3's or 4's?  I've just started
running/troubleshooting my tr-3 after a complete restoration and noticed that
the fan belt does not line up with the generator or crank pulley.  The water
pump seems to be forward at least a quarter or half inch.  It's very noticable
and I can't figure out how I put it on in the first place without noticing.
Anyway, I'm wondering if there are water pumps with different lengths between
the rotor and pulley?  Thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 22:46:49 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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I will miss that tree.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul  3 21:28:47 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:28:44 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac54XX+yBMhib404TaqA1hRQ2jR4VAACJcaw
Subject: Re: [TR] water pump
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> Are there several different water pumps for tr-3's or 4's? 

Just several different aftermarket pumps, including the "6 vane" version.
They should all interchange, but it appears that there is a lot of variation
in them.  Someone on another forum just got a pump that held the pulley too
far back, so it hit the studs.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 07:13:32 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Anyone got a photo of a tr3a bulkhead post TS60000?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi everyone,

I'm helping a friend put together a basket case TR3A.   Wiring is coming up
soon.  I've got TeriAnn's bulkhead grommet diagram and that's a help.

I'm looking at how the fuse box, voltage regualtor and flasher mount.

I found this link, close to our commission number (supposed comm # as the
car was fully stripped and could have been made from more than one car).

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/28357-where-did-i-see-the-picture-of-the-tr3-bulkhead/#entry207503

What other hints - well some of the holes were welded over by patch
plates/bondo found on the back side of the bulkhead.

We have a caged nut (broken bolt), I presume for the flasher, but it's
above and to the right of the comission plate - probably 6 inches to the
left and 4 inches down from the photo of the engine bay in the link.

anyone got a pic of a bulkead like I'm talking about?  Would be appreciated.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 05:41:30 2013
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Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 07:41:04 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Build date question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the title.

My friend  is puzzled by the build date.

The vin plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's
puzzled by the vin CC54740 LO.

The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the windshield says the same , but
the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L, no O; but the car has O/D.



Is it possible it came through this way, or did someone replace the plate
and leave off the O ??

It seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of 70.

Al

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 1971 tr6 003.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 06:07:09 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeMPpXepCDdhszzM5PmKNTQFamRFnXwKQkp5T1JATQF8Mg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 08:04:54 -0400
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Cc: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Anyone got a photo of a tr3a bulkhead post TS60000?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is an image of a local one-owner original car (TS67xxx).  Sounds like
placement is same as what you found - but it is not mounted by caged nut.  A
simple screw.   
I mounted mine the same as this.   I did add a second fuse box to the left
of the original for lighting and other high-powered circuits.  I'll look to
see what the cage nut might be when I am in the garage later today.

Apologies to the list for the stripped image.  If you want a copy - email
me.

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 7:14 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Anyone got a photo of a tr3a bulkhead post TS60000?

Hi everyone,

I'm helping a friend put together a basket case TR3A.   Wiring is coming up
soon.  I've got TeriAnn's bulkhead grommet diagram and that's a help.

I'm looking at how the fuse box, voltage regualtor and flasher mount.

I found this link, close to our commission number (supposed comm # as the
car was fully stripped and could have been made from more than one car).

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/28357-where-did-i-see-t
he-picture-of-the-tr3-bulkhead/#entry207503

What other hints - well some of the holes were welded over by patch
plates/bondo found on the back side of the bulkhead.

We have a caged nut (broken bolt), I presume for the flasher, but it's above
and to the right of the comission plate - probably 6 inches to the left and
4 inches down from the photo of the engine bay in the link.

anyone got a pic of a bulkead like I'm talking about?  Would be appreciated.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_1254.JPG]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 08:08:28 -0400
To: "cfmtr3a@verizon.net" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Anyone got a photo of a tr3a bulkhead post TS60000?
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Sweet!!!  That's just what I needed.  Thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 06:38:44 2013
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To: zoboherald@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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At least you're well grounded.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald@aol.com>
To: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 6:21 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree


 Branch out? No; I'm firmly rooted in it. :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 3:24 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree


Oh, are you branching out into comedy?

In a message dated 7/3/2013 9:14:45 AM Central Daylight Time,
zoboherald@aol.com writes:
> Right! Especially if that pit crew is....
>
> wait for it....
>
> the Wood Brothers.
>
> ;)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 07:01:14 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 08:57:22 -0400 (EDT)
To: alansalvy@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Al,
 
According to "Dating Information" in one of Bill Piggott's Original Triumph 
 books I have, 1971 models started production with commission number 
CC58298L  some time in 1970.  That said, it's not uncommon to find cars built 
earlier  than the "official" factory model change date to be titled as the next 
year  model.
 
CC54740LO is close enough to CC58298L to be likely titled as a 1971  model. 
 What is puzzling is that you have a commission plate on the door  and the 
B post....the plates were fitted from the factory to the B post....I  don't 
have any reference of plates ever being fitted to a door.
 
One guess is that, at some point, body work/paint work was done and the  
shop technician replaced the plate to the door.  A bit later in time,  another 
person pointed out that the B post should have a plate and a repro plate  
(without the O) was stamped and put on the B post.
 
Regardless, it sounds like you have a legitimate deal.....just a simple  
mix-up in the placement of the plates.
 
If you want to be "period correct" you could remove the correct plate  from 
the door and replace the plate on the B post with it.  Use a couple of  
metal screws in the holes left by the door plate....only a concours judge  
would probably ever wonder what those two screws were for!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L  
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:41:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
alansalvy@gmail.com writes:

Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the  title.

My friend  is puzzled by the build date.

The vin  plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's
puzzled  by the vin CC54740 LO.

The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the  windshield says the same , but
the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L,  no O; but the car has O/D.



Is it possible it came through this  way, or did someone replace the plate
and leave off the O ??

It  seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of  70.

Al

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg  which had a name of 
1971 tr6 003.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net  **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 08:43:33 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:47:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy July 4th everyone!
Probably the single most demanding use of propane all year..

I am considering replacing my amp guage with a voltage guage and would like to
hear if anyone has a suggestion that would match the look of the guages to
some extent.

Again,
Have a good holiday!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS  Starting to run out of reasons I can't start the motor
(finally).
http://home.fuse.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 09:59:25 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5F4E24C5639A42A4949E0871ED6E77F6@DaveLaptop>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave.......... contact Morris at West Valley Instruments 
(http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm) and ask him for a 
recommendation. He does great work at an excellent price and delivers on 
time as promised. He just redid my gauges in a Magnolia face and converted 
the tach to electronic and the speedo to GPS. Too bad we can't share 
pictures but if you want to see what he did for me, contact me directly. 
Over in 6-Pack, West Valley has become the instrument shop of choice.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 10:47 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A

Happy July 4th everyone!
Probably the single most demanding use of propane all year..

I am considering replacing my amp guage with a voltage guage and would like 
to
hear if anyone has a suggestion that would match the look of the guages to
some extent.

Again,
Have a good holiday!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS  Starting to run out of reasons I can't start the motor
(finally).
http://home.fuse.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 11:48:16 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 10:44:18 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac54xOTtVKOSNLOfTF++UThJ/hqnywAF9sIA
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I am considering replacing my amp guage with a voltage guage 

If the reason is that you are installing an alternator that exceeds the
capacity of the stock ammeter; may I suggest keeping the ammeter and adding
a shunt to recalibrate it?
http://goo.gl/mD0F4

The voltmeter from an early Stag might match reasonably well, if you can
swap the 4A bezel (which I assume is chrome) for the black bezel used on the
Stag.  But having tried both, I much prefer the ammeter.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver 
71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild 
71 Stag LE2014LBW waiting for (OD) gearbox rebuild 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 12:19:27 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Propeller replacement is a routine maintenance item, anyway.  ;-)




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Fraser <dougfr2@gmail.com>
To: Alex&Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net>
Cc: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation


You would also need to replace the propellor.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 3, 2013, at 5:28 PM, "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
wrote:

> That's why Detroit Diesels (two stoke) were so popular for marine
> applications. The cam shaft and the balance shaft were swapped with a few
> other changes.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation
>
> I forgot.  It is common practice in dual engined boats to run the engines
> in opposite directions.  I guess this cancels out the reaction torque from
> the props.  All you need do is to swap out the camshaft, the distributor,
> the oil pump and the water pump.
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
> To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:00 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
>
>
> If a tree falls in a forest...
>
> I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear
engine
> and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the
two
> applications.
>
> I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion
> engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so
> you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.
>
> I rank these up there with other urban myths.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mmarr@notwires.com writes:
>
> Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?
>
> Mike
>
>>
>> It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:09:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'dave1massey@cs.com'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, 
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Put it in reverse.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Massey
Sent: July-04-13 2:09 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation

 Propeller replacement is a routine maintenance item, anyway.  ;-)




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Fraser <dougfr2@gmail.com>
To: Alex&Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net>
Cc: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation


You would also need to replace the propellor.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 3, 2013, at 5:28 PM, "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
wrote:

> That's why Detroit Diesels (two stoke) were so popular for marine
> applications. The cam shaft and the balance shaft were swapped with a few
> other changes.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation
>
> I forgot.  It is common practice in dual engined boats to run the engines
> in opposite directions.  I guess this cancels out the reaction torque from
> the props.  All you need do is to swap out the camshaft, the distributor,
> the oil pump and the water pump.
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
> To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:00 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
>
>
> If a tree falls in a forest...
>
> I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear
engine
> and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the
two
> applications.
>
> I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion
> engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so
> you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.
>
> I rank these up there with other urban myths.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mmarr@notwires.com writes:
>
> Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?
>
> Mike
>
>>
>> It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 13:21:23 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:23:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'dave1massey@cs.com'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, 
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hit the send before finishing. Meant to say, you could put it in reverse, but
would lose any counter-torque benefit of course.

On my OMC electric shift you could just reverse the coil wires and run two
normal engines with different propellers.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Massey
Sent: July-04-13 2:09 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation

 Propeller replacement is a routine maintenance item, anyway.  ;-)




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Fraser <dougfr2@gmail.com>
To: Alex&Janet Thomson <aljlthomson@charter.net>
Cc: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd:  Engine rotation


You would also need to replace the propellor.

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 3, 2013, at 5:28 PM, "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
wrote:

> That's why Detroit Diesels (two stoke) were so popular for marine
> applications. The cam shaft and the balance shaft were swapped with a few
> other changes.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Massey
> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: Engine rotation
>
> I forgot.  It is common practice in dual engined boats to run the engines
> in opposite directions.  I guess this cancels out the reaction torque from
> the props.  All you need do is to swap out the camshaft, the distributor,
> the oil pump and the water pump.
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>
> To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Jul 3, 2013 7:00 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Engine rotation
>
>
> If a tree falls in a forest...
>
> I heard told, once, that Renault had an engine they used in both rear
engine
> and mid engine application.  It rotated in the opposite direction in the
two
> applications.
>
> I also heard about a boat engine (this was back in the internal combustion
> engine was in its infancy) that had a provision of indexing the camshaft so
> you can run the engine backwards for reversing the boat.
>
> I rank these up there with other urban myths.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 7/2/2013 8:07:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mmarr@notwires.com writes:
>
> Haha! But, are there any auto engines that rotate counter-clockwise?
>
> Mike
>
>>
>> It rotates the same, no matter where you stand.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 13:37:18 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:34:21 -0400
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Thread-index: Ac544V6T4z/Zw0ZuSj62qQVlK6dW+gACiyLw
References: <mailman.20.1372960804.1608.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan,
I have CC58110L. Built 28Oct70. 
Car was sold in Sept 1971 as a 1971, I have the sell ID plate and Heritage
Certificate..
So they built at least 3370 cars in October 1970??????
Something smells funny.
Regards,
Bob
------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 07:41:04 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Build date question
Message-ID:
	<CAAAEehQwPWZ-cQA1S6s7TDPYaftdMmNxARYSu2LuRicKYef9_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the title.

My friend  is puzzled by the build date.

The vin plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's puzzled
by the vin CC54740 LO.

The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the windshield says the same , but
the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L, no O; but the car has O/D.

Is it possible it came through this way, or did someone replace the plate
and leave off the O ??

It seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of 70.

Al

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 13:58:31 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Bob'" <rpeglow@optonline.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20.1372960804.1608.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<wKdJ1l0210koGQ601KdLjo>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 12:58:18 -0700
Thread-index: Ac544V6T4z/Zw0ZuSj62qQVlK6dW+gACiyLwAAFFKiA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am not specifically familiar with the TR6 plate issues, but relating to
Spitfire commission plates, those dates are typically referring to the date
the model specification went into effect and not the actual build date.  

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 12:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??

Alan,
I have CC58110L. Built 28Oct70. 
Car was sold in Sept 1971 as a 1971, I have the sell ID plate and Heritage
Certificate..
So they built at least 3370 cars in October 1970??????
Something smells funny.
Regards,
Bob
------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 07:41:04 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Build date question
Message-ID:
	<CAAAEehQwPWZ-cQA1S6s7TDPYaftdMmNxARYSu2LuRicKYef9_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the title.

My friend  is puzzled by the build date.

The vin plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's puzzled
by the vin CC54740 LO.

The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the windshield says the same , but
the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L, no O; but the car has O/D.

Is it possible it came through this way, or did someone replace the plate
and leave off the O ??

It seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of 70.

Al

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 14:23:14 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5F4E24C5639A42A4949E0871ED6E77F6@DaveLaptop>
	<4CB5C8A29B2049D696AE8A7AF1876072@BobDell>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 15:18:09 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

just got a gage back from them.  happy customer!!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 10:57 AM
To: Dave Connitt ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A

Hi Dave.......... contact Morris at West Valley Instruments
(http://westvalleyinstruments.com/index.htm) and ask him for a
recommendation. He does great work at an excellent price and delivers on
time as promised. He just redid my gauges in a Magnolia face and converted
the tach to electronic and the speedo to GPS. Too bad we can't share
pictures but if you want to see what he did for me, contact me directly.
Over in 6-Pack, West Valley has become the instrument shop of choice.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 10:47 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A

Happy July 4th everyone!
Probably the single most demanding use of propane all year..

I am considering replacing my amp guage with a voltage guage and would like
to
hear if anyone has a suggestion that would match the look of the guages to
some extent.

Again, 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 14:23:42 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 15:20:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] gas tank removal tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

can I take it out through the trunk?  or do I have to remove the rear panel,
etc?  and if so, what else is holding the rear panel in?

thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 14:38:37 2013
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References: <3f4e.740df146.3f06cb32@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 16:32:53 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: Chip19474@aol.com
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry,  I didn't mean to say door, the vin is on the B post and the
windshield.

oops,

Al


On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 8:57 AM, <Chip19474@aol.com> wrote:

> **
> Al,
>
> According to "Dating Information" in one of Bill Piggott's Original
> Triumph books I have, 1971 models started production with commission number
> CC58298L some time in 1970.  That said, it's not uncommon to find cars
> built earlier than the "official" factory model change date to be titled as
> the next year model.
>
> CC54740LO is close enough to CC58298L to be likely titled as a 1971
> model.  What is puzzling is that you have a commission plate on the door
> and the B post....the plates were fitted from the factory to the B
> post....I don't have any reference of plates ever being fitted to a door.
>
> One guess is that, at some point, body work/paint work was done and the
> shop technician replaced the plate to the door.  A bit later in time,
> another person pointed out that the B post should have a plate and a repro
> plate (without the O) was stamped and put on the B post.
>
> Regardless, it sounds like you have a legitimate deal.....just a simple
> mix-up in the placement of the plates.
>
> If you want to be "period correct" you could remove the correct plate from
> the door and replace the plate on the B post with it.  Use a couple of
> metal screws in the holes left by the door plate....only a concours judge
> would probably ever wonder what those two screws were for!
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4 CT2052L
>
>
>
>
>
>  In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:41:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> alansalvy@gmail.com writes:
>
> Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the title.
>
> My friend  is puzzled by the build date.
>
> The vin plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's
> puzzled by the vin CC54740 LO.
>
> The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the windshield says the same , but
> the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L, no O; but the car has O/D.
>
>
>
> Is it possible it came through this way, or did someone replace the plate
> and leave off the O ??
>
> It seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of 70.
>
> Al
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> 1971 tr6 003.jpg]
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 15:09:26 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: James TenCate <tencate@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:06:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] that Stag in Albuquerque New Mexico...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There's a Triumph Stag for sale in Albuquerque, hasn't been very well
publicized yet. A few of you wanted me to drive down and have a look
at it and take photos. I did and uploaded them to a TWOA webpage for
you to look at last night.  This one was/is a
restoration project (among about 12 others, the guy ran a British car
shop).  He recently retired (that's him in the photo) and the new
owners asked him to "move" all his project cars and he decided to
sell them all.  This Stag project is one of them. He extracted it and
had it towed to where it sits now. Two tires are flat, they're not
sitting in quicksand :-)  Pass this along to whomever you might think
would be interested. It's a New Mexico car, NO rust, lots and lots
and lots of "protective" sand on and in everything though. No, this
part of Albuquerque hardly ever gets rain, only those of us in the
mountains, the "high" desert, get afternoon thunderstorms. This car
is in a real desert.

Trivia: this car sits within sight of the outdoor studio where the
recent Lone Ranger movie was shot. No, it's not like being in a Lady
Gaga music video or anything but that was kind of interesting to see.  
Other
trivia: Terry, the guy who owns it (you can see him in some of the
photos) drives a Saab 95, his mechanic drives a Saab 93 FWIW... I
know there are some Saab fanatics lurking among us too :-)

http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/abq73stag.html

Jim TenCate
triumphwedgeowners.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 16:30:16 2013
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References: <909BFEF3DC8A412CA3F917A37C48A4F0@Datsun>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 18:29:52 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] gas tank removal tr3b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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You will have to take off the interior's back panel as well as the trunk
panel. The fuel tank straps need to be unbolted both at the front and rear
of the tank. Access to the fuel gauge sender will be easier too. A far as
I can remember, the inerior panel is only held by screws at the bottom.
The top edge slips into clips under the capping.


> can I take it out through the trunk?  or do I have to remove the rear
> panel,
> etc?  and if so, what else is holding the rear panel in?
>
> thanks!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 16:45:11 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac544V6T4z/Zw0ZuSj62qQVlK6dW+gACiyLwAAkZtSA=
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
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> So they built at least 3370 cars in October 1970??????
> Something smells funny.

Ever notice how each year, you can find next year's model on the dealer's
lot starting in September or so?  Even for cars 'built' in the US.

Now 'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, but
sold new as a 1965 model.  

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: TR3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
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 Yeah, "funny" thing about those Sports 6 cars; they didn't sell all that
quickly in some areas, hence some being first "titled" two years later!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 4, 2013 7:45 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??

Now 'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, butsold
new as a 1965 model.  -- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul  4 19:55:42 2013
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Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 21:55:11 -0400
From: Bob <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: 'Joe Curry' <spitlist@cox.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question?? (1971 TR6)
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Joe,
You could be right. 
We need more folks with 1971 year and BMIHT Certificates to chime in here. 
What dates do they have?
I don't know production numbers for 1970 and 1971.
I read somewhere that specs for 1970 and 1971 TR6 were exactly the same,
but?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist@cox.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 3:58 PM
To: 'Bob'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Build date question??

I am not specifically familiar with the TR6 plate issues, but relating to
Spitfire commission plates, those dates are typically referring to the date
the model specification went into effect and not the actual build date.  

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 12:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??

Alan,
I have CC58110L. Built 28Oct70. 
Car was sold in Sept 1971 as a 1971, I have the sell ID plate and Heritage
Certificate..
So they built at least 3370 cars in October 1970??????
Something smells funny.
Regards,
Bob
------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 07:41:04 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Build date question
Message-ID:
	<CAAAEehQwPWZ-cQA1S6s7TDPYaftdMmNxARYSu2LuRicKYef9_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday, I bought a 71 TR6, at least according to the title.

My friend  is puzzled by the build date.

The vin plate on the door says it  was built in Oct of 1970 and he's puzzled
by the vin CC54740 LO.

The title say CC54740 LO, the plate on the windshield says the same , but
the plate on the B post is just CC54740 L, no O; but the car has O/D.

Is it possible it came through this way, or did someone replace the plate
and leave off the O ??

It seems that CC54740 should have been built before October of 70.

Al

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 08:03:45 2013
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Randall,
 
That's the best example of how crazy titling a Triumph can be!
 
It beats my TR6 which was built on July 5, 1976, but not shipped to the USA 
 until December, 1976, and not sold until April, 1977.....amazing....how 
did Brit  Leyland make any money leaving products laying around the docks for 
so  long!!??  Geez, by the time the first owner bought the car, the seals 
had  already started to dry rot from nonuse.
 
I guess it was a good thing that Triumph wasn't building TR6s at that  
point or the DOT would have called it a 1977 TR7....that would have raised a few 
 eyebrows!
 
Chip
 
 
In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:45:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes:

Now  'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, but
sold  new as a 1965 model.  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] VIR Oak Tree
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On 7/3/2013 10:46 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I will miss that tree.

Well, that's the point, innit?  Wouldn't be much fun if you hit it...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 13:04:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tire question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 years old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been 'garaged' the whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I don't expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
 
If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if 165/80R15s are included. 
 
Prices below include s/h & mount Bal:
Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think)
Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB (also Taiwan)
Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China)
Kumho Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax)
Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15)
Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15) 

BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww
Michelin XZX @ $242  no ratings (165-15)
 
Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car) 
 

Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the Michelin & Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
 
I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of kumho is local dealer)

 
Any input?  
 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 11:29:29 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my opinion, at 9 years old tires are nearing the end of their useful
life irrespective of appearance or the conditions under which they were
stored.

I currently have the Nexens on the TR3A and the Kuhmos on the TR4 -- of
those 2, I prefer the Nexens (looks, balanced better, good ride).

Nexen SB 802<http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Nexen_zpse0bfb6fe.jpg>

The Vred Sprints are an excellent choice -- I have the 185/15s in those on
another car.

Geo




On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 11:04 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9
> years old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been
> 'garaged' the whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal
> deteriation?   I don't expect to do anything but normal driving - some at
> highway speed.
>
> If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if
> 165/80R15s are included.
>
> Prices below include s/h & mount Bal:
> Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think)
> Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB (also Taiwan)
> Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China)
> Kumho Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax)
> Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15)
> Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15)
>
> BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww
> Michelin XZX @ $242  no ratings (165-15)
>
> Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car)
>
>
> Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
> All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the
> Michelin & Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
>
> I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of
> kumho is local dealer)
>
>
> Any input?
>
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
> mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 14:02:35 -0500
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been running NanKang on my TR3 for the past five years, very satisfied.
The proper term for those 'new' nine year old tires, Parade Tires.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2013, at 1:04 PM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 years
old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been 'garaged' the
whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I don't
expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
>
> If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if
165/80R15s are included.
>
> Prices below include s/h & mount Bal:
> Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think)
> Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB (also Taiwan)
> Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China)
> Kumho Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax)
> Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15)
> Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15)
>
> BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww
> Michelin XZX @ $242  no ratings (165-15)
>
> Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car)
>
>
> Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
> All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the
Michelin & Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
>
> I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of kumho
is local dealer)
>
>
> Any input?
>
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
> mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 15:13:48 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 17:01:35 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
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Where are you finding all these?  Coker has nothing, Tire Rack only has one 
(Classic 165/80R15 (China) $68 each plus shipping, mounting and balancing)

Tires can deteriorate from exposure to UV but they also can deteriorate 
from exposure to ozone so running old tires means you're playing the odds even 
if the car has been garaged.

What do you plan to do with the car?  If you are like me you will be 
replacing them from dry rot long before they wear out.  That's what I'm facing at 
the moment.  My tires are 15 years old (at least) (not to worry, it has been 
off the road for the last 7) and they still have most of the tread left.  
The heat rating is a measure of how well the tire will handle the heat from 
operating at high speeds.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48

BTW, Tire Rack also has a BF Goodrich 155/80R15 at $86 each

Dave



In a message dated 7/5/2013 1:11:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes: 
> Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 
> years old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been 'garaged' 
> the whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I 
> don't expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
> 
> If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if 
> 165/80R15s are included. 
> 
> Prices below include s/h &mount Bal:
> Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think)
> Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB (also Taiwan)
> Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China)
> Kumho Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax)
> Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15)
> Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15) 
> 
> BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww
> Michelin XZX @ $242  no ratings (165-15)
> 
> Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car) 
> 
> 
> Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
> All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the 
> Michelin &Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
> 
> I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of 
> kumho is local dealer)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 16:04:44 2013
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To: Dave1massey@cs.com
From: dave@ranteer.com
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:04:09 -0700
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
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Discount tire has some.  I dont know if they do online; there are several
stores around me.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Date: Jul 5, 2013 4:13 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
CC:

Where are you finding all these?  Coker has nothing, Tire Rack only has one
(Classic 165/80R15 (China) $68 each plus shipping, mounting and balancing)

Tires can deteriorate from exposure to UV but they also can deteriorate
from exposure to ozone so running old tires means you're playing the odds even
if the car has been garaged.

What do you plan to do with the car?  If you are like me you will be
replacing them from dry rot long before they wear out.  That's what I'm facing
at
the moment.  My tires are 15 years old (at least) (not to worry, it has been
off the road for the last 7) and they still have most of the tread left.
The heat rating is a measure of how well the tire will handle the heat from
operating at high speeds.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48

BTW, Tire Rack also has a BF Goodrich 155/80R15 at $86 each

Dave



In a message dated 7/5/2013 1:11:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes:
> Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9
> years old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been
'garaged'
> the whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I
> don't expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
>
> If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if
> 165/80R15s are included.
>
> Prices below include s/h &mount Bal:
> Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think)
> Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB (also Taiwan)
> Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China)
> Kumho Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax)
> Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15)
> Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15)
>
> BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww
> Michelin XZX @ $242  no ratings (165-15)
>
> Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car)
>
>
> Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
> All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the
> Michelin &Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
>
> I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of
> kumho is local dealer)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 18:24:06 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 20:16:41 -0400
	FILETIME=[176A34E0:01CE79DE]
Subject: [TR] Convex Mirrors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been on a quest for 4-1/2 inch convex bullet mirrors. I came up with a
solutions that worked for me. Somebody on the list wanted to know if I found
something and I don't recall who it was, sorry. first I purchased a new mirror
from Summit racing for $34.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-s1402/overview/

Then I went to NAPA and purchased a 5 inch convex mirror for $12, #R505220.

Then I went to Al's auto glass in Elyria Ohio and for $25 he removed the 5
inch glass out of the NAPA mirror, cut it down to 4-1/2 inches and glued it
onto the face of the Summit mirror. Looks like it was supposed to be there.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 19:23:41 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <28263498.940775.1373047483242.JavaMail.root@vms170019>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 21:23:13 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJEKQgRlqm/UUDPzejbKL0IFt/Z1phrev4g
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Our locally owned and operated tire store installed Kelly "Explorer Plus"
P205/65 R15 on our TR6. They are made in the USA and were relatively
inexpensive. I don't know if that tire is available in a smaller size for
TR3's. 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 2:05 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tire question

Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 years
old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been 'garaged' the
whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I don't
expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
 
If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if
165/80R15s are included. 
 
Prices below include s/h & mount Bal:
Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think) Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB
(also Taiwan) Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China) Kumho Power Star 758
@ $105 400AB (local incl tax) Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15) Vredesting
Sprint @130 220AB (165-15) 

BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww Michelin XZX @ $242  no
ratings (165-15)
 
Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car) 
 

Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the
Michelin & Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
 
I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of kumho
is local dealer)

 
Any input?  
 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 19:26:22 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 18:26:18 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Convex Mirrors
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Ok, someone's bound to ask; might as well be me.  How is that better than
just buying a convex bullet mirror?

http://goo.gl/TsJSk

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Convex Mirrors
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Because 95 MM is the typical 3.5 inch mirror. They're everywhere. Marty is
looking for a 4.5 inch mirror that gives a much better rear view. Bigger is
better, just watch the AT&T commercials.

> 
> Ok, someone's bound to ask; might as well be me.  How is that better
> than just buying a convex bullet mirror?
> 
> http://goo.gl/TsJSk
> 
> -- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 19:53:41 2013
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To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 18:51:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Convex Mirrors
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> Marty is looking for a 4.5 inch mirror that gives 
> a much better rear view. 

Ah, I see.  Thanks, John (& Marty)

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 19:54:10 2013
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Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 20:52:55 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car laundering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just look how a car can improve as some of the details about how it
came to be are lost.

>From this:
http://www.nickwhalesportscarsdirect.co.uk/1955-triumph-tr2-php-727

To this:
http://www.premiumclassiccars.com/carlistings/1954-tr2/

Seems to me #46k ($65.5k) is more than ALL the money.  The list of
things "wrong" with it would fill a page.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul  5 21:27:19 2013
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 20:26:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spa Triumphs
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Just for fun:
bRustyb went from 52d at the start to end at 11th.  Fast, well driven car
(note the lacey bonnet.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlsuhiQRD4I

And a TR4 with overdrive. The speedometer is kph not mph. Itbs not THAT
fast:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWhX03q-u6o

Some other TR stuff on the facebook page.  None of this Ibve seen before;
sorry if itbs old news.

Skip Gurnee
64 TR4, 65TR4A, et.al.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 05:11:44 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Alex&Janet Thomson'" <aljlthomson@charter.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:03:13 -0400
Thread-index: AQJEKQgRlqm/UUDPzejbKL0IFt/Z1gJBHlCFmFoVh7A=
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Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
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Kelly doesn't offer anything in the 165 (or 175) -15 range.   Thanks for the
suggestion.
C
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex&Janet Thomson
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 9:23 PM
To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question

Our locally owned and operated tire store installed Kelly "Explorer Plus"
P205/65 R15 on our TR6. They are made in the USA and were relatively
inexpensive. I don't know if that tire is available in a smaller size for
TR3's. 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 2:05 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tire question

Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 years
old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been 'garaged' the
whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I don't
expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
 
If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if
165/80R15s are included. 
 
Prices below include s/h & mount Bal:
Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think) Nexen SB802 @ $82  380AB
(also Taiwan) Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China) Kumho Power Star 758
@ $105 400AB (local incl tax) Firestone F560 @$114 280A? (165-15) Vredesting
Sprint @130 220AB (165-15) 

BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww Michelin XZX @ $242  no
ratings (165-15)
 
Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car) 
 

Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except the
Michelin & Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
 
I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of kumho
is local dealer)

 
Any input?  
 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 05:59:22 2013
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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 07:59:11 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

About 3 months ago, i was looking for 165/80r15 tires and it was slim
pickings and no local stock of any.

Today,  local discount tire has kumbo in stock and wallmart has nexen.

The guy at discount tire said kumbo makes only one or two production runs a
year in this size.

I'm going with the kumbo for the tr4 , i have them on the tr2 and rides
well and is fun at the autocross.

The nexens are at least 10 bucks cheaper per tire.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 06:31:12 2013
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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 08:30:51 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car laundering
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I like the hood and trunk locks better than original on my tr2.

I always worry one of the hood catches will fail. I've used a screwdriver
jammed in the budget lock more than a few times to open the unlocked
trunk.  I'd have to fix that interior, though.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 07:30:56 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:30:44 -0400 (EDT)
To: flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
 
Maybe a lot of what you provided here helps explain why dealerships selling 
 Triumphs back in the 60's and 70's around where I grew up in southeastern  
Pennsylvania also sold other makes of vehicles....it was the only way to 
assure  enough steady cash flow.
 
The dealer that I bought my 1969 TR6 from (new in Feb, 1969), also sold  
Volvos.  He continued to sell Volvos long after he stopped selling  Triumphs.  
Some dealers also held franchises for other British cars as  well..i.e., 
MG, AH, Jaguar but I can't think of any dealership selling Triumphs  
exclusively. 
 
chip
 
 
In a message dated 7/5/2013 6:04:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:

 
Chip Krout  wrote:
It beats my TR6 which was built on July 5, 1976, but not  shipped to the 
USA 
until December, 1976, and not sold until April,  1977.....amazing....how 
did Brit  Leyland make any money leaving  products laying around the docks 
for 
so  long!!??  Geez, by the  time the first owner bought the car, the seals 
had  already started  to dry rot from nonuse.
 
Chip
 
To understand the reasons why requires a knowledge of  international 
banking. All exports in those days - as well as today - are/were paid for using a 
document called a Confirmed  Irrevocable Letter of Credit. Its a means of 
ensuring the buyer doesn't pay  until the car is on its way and the seller is 
guaranteed his money. The LC is  is valid for a relatively short time - 
usually just a few weeks - and can be  drawn down (cashed) only when the car is 
loaded on a vessel and the bank is  presented with the shipping documents 
and invoice within that time  frame.
 
Enter stage left, the British Trade Unions who, more often  than not in 
those days were on strike - ergo no cars got made. Strike ends and  production 
re-starts and by the time the car is finished (maybe with another  strike or 
two for good measure) the Letter of Credit has expired so car  can't be 
paid for and so it can't be shipped until another Letter of Credit is  opened. 
This takes an inordinately long time and isn't cheap. Too often, we  were 
left with the option of "do we make the car when another LC arrives or do  we 
go ahead so that when it does arrive, the car can go straight away?" Throw  
into this heady mix, the volatility of exchange rates because you'll either  
make a fortune or lose your shirt.
 
The bottom line was that BL didn't make much money because  too much 
working capital was tied up in stocks wanted by the  customer

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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Car_laundering?=
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There's a butt for every seat.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car laundering
Date: Fri, Jul 5, 2013 8:52 pm


Just look how a car can improve as some of the details about how it
came to be are lost.

>From this:
http://www.nickwhalesportscarsdirect.co.uk/1955-triumph-tr2-php-727

To this:
http://www.premiumclassiccars.com/carlistings/1954-tr2/

Seems to me #46k ($65.5k) is more than ALL the money.  The list of
things "wrong" with it would fill a page.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 08:15:26 2013
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:14:59 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <75.1A.05415.764B5D15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Suggestions for a voltage gauge replacment on TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 7/4/13 10:44 AM, Randall wrote:
>> I am considering replacing my amp guage with a voltage guage
> If the reason is that you are installing an alternator that exceeds the
> capacity of the stock ammeter; may I suggest keeping the ammeter and adding
> a shunt to recalibrate it?
You may, but I do not think it is the best solution.  This is one of 
those very rare instances where I have to disagree with Randall.  I 
believe that a voltmeter can tell you more about the health of your 
electrical system and if it is being overloaded than an ammeter can.

An ammeter will tell you if the current is flowing into the battery or 
out of the battery and how much.  The small car ammeters are mostly 
gross indicators and do not read small amounts of current flow well.

When I moved from Seattle to Monterey I drove my 1968 Land Rover along 
the coastal route.  It was a cold stormy trip down the coast. I had the 
headlamps on, the windscreen wipers on and the heater on high all day.  
The ammeter looked fine but next morning my battery was too low to start 
the engine and I needed to use the hand crank instead of the starter 
motor.  The electrical drain was just a little more than the generator 
could produce.  Not enough to cause a noticeable deflection in the 
ammeter but enough to slowly drain the battery.  A voltmeter would have 
caught the overloading right away.

A voltmeter will tell you when you generator/alternator is not healthy 
because the voltage will read lower.  It will catch worn brushes and 
overloaded circuits.  It can catch things like corroded poor connections 
that reduce the voltage in the system.

Right now the alternator is going out in my 1960 Land Rover.  The 
voltage is lower than normal but there is still enough to keep the 
battery charged.  I check the electrical connections because corroded 
connections can cause low voltage.  They are fine.  I'm keeping a close 
eye on the voltmeter to determine when I need to change the alternator.  
An ammeter would never catch this until the alternator completely 
failed.  If the alternator voltage drops another 2 volts it will not be 
able to keep the battery fully charged.  An ammeter would not catch a 
failure mode that doesn't quite keep the battery fully charged.

Both my Land Rover and my TR3 have Lucas voltmeters.  Last time I looked 
they were still available new.  With the TR3 I swapped the bezel ring 
and the curved lens from the ammeter to the voltmeter.

I would never go back to an ammeter again just because a voltmeter can 
tell you so much more about the health of your electrical system.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 08:21:13 2013
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:21:02 -0400
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.6
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <ed71d.3f9e2260.3f082ab7@aol.com>
	refid=str=0001.0A020201.51D827C0.0106, ss=1, re=0.000, recu=0.000,
	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0, 
	ip=0.0.0.0, so=2011-09-13 19:33:14, dmn=2013-04-19 10:07:54,
	mode=single engine
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello list. With all the "build date" discussion, here is what really 
happened in the '60's at the dealer level. We were a BMC/Standard 
Triumph/Rootes dealer. Through 1967, at teh end of teh calendar year we 
were allowed to send back the CO (manufacturer's certificate of origin) 
to the appropriate mfg.  They would reissue an new CO shwoing the 
current calendar year.  Starting in 1968 with the advent of all the US 
laws on emissions, safety  and theft - think locking ignition w/dead 
bolt. VIN visible from outside the car, etc. - we could no longer do 
this.  But this is how "year of mfg" and year of car by title varied. 
Example, it's the first week of 1965. We send all gthe CCO's back to 
tghe appropriate mfg.  A bit later in the month, the '64 TR4 has become 
a '65. And if it was a real dog (color, equipment, interior) it was 
possible for the '64, now '65 to become a '66 12 months later. Ted


On 7/5/2013 9:57 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
> Randall,
>   
> That's the best example of how crazy titling a Triumph can be!
>   
> It beats my TR6 which was built on July 5, 1976, but not shipped to the USA
>   until December, 1976, and not sold until April, 1977.....amazing....how
> did Brit  Leyland make any money leaving products laying around the docks for
> so  long!!??  Geez, by the time the first owner bought the car, the seals
> had  already started to dry rot from nonuse.
>   
> I guess it was a good thing that Triumph wasn't building TR6s at that
> point or the DOT would have called it a 1977 TR7....that would have raised a few
>   eyebrows!
>   
> Chip
>   
>   
> In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:45:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes:
>
> Now  'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, but
> sold  new as a 1965 model.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 08:35:52 2013
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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:35:27 -0400
References: <ed71d.3f9e2260.3f082ab7@aol.com>
  <51D827CE.7030206@bright.net>
To: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Explains how my 60 TR3A is titled a 1962 in the state of Virginia. TS 69056 L

Dean


On Jul 6, 2013, at 10:21 AM, Ted Schumacher wrote:

> Hello list. With all the "build date" discussion, here is what really
happened in the '60's at the dealer level. We were a BMC/Standard
Triumph/Rootes dealer. Through 1967, at teh end of teh calendar year we were
allowed to send back the CO (manufacturer's certificate of origin) to the
appropriate mfg.  They would reissue an new CO shwoing the current calendar
year.  Starting in 1968 with the advent of all the US laws on emissions,
safety  and theft - think locking ignition w/dead bolt. VIN visible from
outside the car, etc. - we could no longer do this.  But this is how "year of
mfg" and year of car by title varied. Example, it's the first week of 1965. We
send all gthe CCO's back to tghe appropriate mfg.  A bit later in the month,
the '64 TR4 has become a '65. And if it was a real dog (color, equipment,
interior) it was possible for the '64, now '65 to become a '66 12 months
later. Ted
>
>
> On 7/5/2013 9:57 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
>> Randall,
>>  That's the best example of how crazy titling a Triumph can be!
>>  It beats my TR6 which was built on July 5, 1976, but not shipped to the
USA
>>  until December, 1976, and not sold until April, 1977.....amazing....how
>> did Brit  Leyland make any money leaving products laying around the docks
for
>> so  long!!??  Geez, by the time the first owner bought the car, the seals
>> had  already started to dry rot from nonuse.
>>  I guess it was a good thing that Triumph wasn't building TR6s at that
>> point or the DOT would have called it a 1977 TR7....that would have raised
a few
>>  eyebrows!
>>  Chip
>>    In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:45:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes:
>>
>> Now  'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, but
>> sold  new as a 1965 model.
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Ted Schumacher
> tedtsimx@bright.net
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
> 108 S. Jefferson St.
> Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
> Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
> Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
> Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 09:02:12 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Dave Massey'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, "Triumph Mail List"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130705150409.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.1c5aa42ddb.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
	<001e01ce79dd$8c45efd0$a4d1cf70$@verizon.net>
	<8D0485B5BD8B921-10F8-86785@webmail-d255.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 11:01:40 -0400
Thread-index: AQHpT6c8n2CD+8/rHD9u8GNF6GJL6AF0d0RnA3V9iq2Y+sM1UA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.cokertire.com/tire-styles/165sr15-michelin-xzx.html

http://www.cokertire.com/firestone-f560-165r15.html 

http://www.cokertire.com/vredestein-sprint-classic.html 

http://www.cokertire.com/brands/universal/universal-185hr15-redline.html 

 

the BF Goodrich were available when I checked last Wednesday but are not
listed now.

 

 

Carl

1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

 

From: Dave Massey [mailto:dave1massey@cs.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 8:28 AM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; dave@ranteer.com
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question

 

Coker?  When I searched their site I found nothing in that size.  They did
have some nice 590x15 bias ply whitewalls though.

 

Dave Massey

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>

That is where I found the Kumho's but none of the others.
Nexen's are at The Tire Choice locally but that is not the price I listed.
If I go that route, I'll work on them matching price.
The last four in the list were at Coker.  Talked with them today and they
said at least the Firestone's & Michelin's were in stock.
Federal's were online at Tire Easy or something like that.   Talked with
them and they couldn't guarantee that they were in stock (Amazon had at 7 in
stock).
Don't want to down size to the 155's
 
 
Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
 
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
 
Discount tire has some.  I dont know if they do online; there are several
stores around me.
 
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [TR] tire question
 
Where are you finding all these?  Coker has nothing, Tire Rack only has one
(Classic 165/80R15 (China) $68 each plus shipping, mounting and balancing)
 
Tires can deteriorate from exposure to UV but they also can deteriorate from
exposure to ozone so running old tires means you're playing the odds even if
the car has been garaged.
 
What do you plan to do with the car?  If you are like me you will be
replacing them from dry rot long before they wear out.  That's what I'm
facing at the moment.  My tires are 15 years old (at least) (not to worry,
it has been off the road for the last 7) and they still have most of the
tread left.
The heat rating is a measure of how well the tire will handle the heat from
operating at high speeds.
 
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48
 
BTW, Tire Rack also has a BF Goodrich 155/80R15 at $86 each
 
Dave
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/5/2013 1:11:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
cfmtr3a@verizon.net writes:
> Boy can I taste it.... The tires on the car are still 'new' but are 9 
> years old.  Obviously I live in 'warmer' climate but they have been
'garaged'
> the whole time.   Should I be concerned about internal deteriation?   I
> don't expect to do anything but normal driving - some at highway speed.
> 
> If I get new tires - there is limited availability in 165r15 even if 
> 165/80R15s are included.
> 
> Prices below include s/h &mount Bal:
> Nantang CX688 @$79  400AB (made in Tawiwan I think) Nexen SB802 @ $82  
> 380AB (also Taiwan) Federal SS567 @$104 420AA (made in China) Kumho 
> Power Star 758 @ $105 400AB (local incl tax) Firestone F560 @$114 
> 280A? (165-15) Vredesting Sprint @130 220AB (165-15)
> 
> BFGoodrich WW @$170 580BB (165-15) has 3/4" ww Michelin XZX @ $242  no 
> ratings (165-15)
> 
> Dunlop SP series no longer available. (that is what is on the car)
> 
> 
> Does it make a difference whether a tires heat rating is an A or B?
> All have a tread pattern with straight grooves around the tire except 
> the Michelin &Vredesting which have a squiggly 'S' pattern.
> 
> I think I have narrowed it to nantang, federal or kumho (advantage of 
> kumho is local dealer)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 11:38:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I wonder if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
I went down to the garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
"vacation" camera and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
Assembly" page. You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
camera just didn't do the color justice.'
Too rainy to do much else.

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 12:06:05 -0500
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Send that rain on down to west Texas, we're dying down here.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2013, at 10:38 AM, "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I wonder if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
> I went down to the garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
> "vacation" camera and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
> Assembly" page. You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
> camera just didn't do the color justice.'
> Too rainy to do much else.
>
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
>
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 11:15:35 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:06:10 -0400 (EDT)
To: dconnitt@fuse.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
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Dave,
 
We're having "cabin fever - summer style" here in eastern PA but it's not  
rain!  Three minutes outside (sun or shade) and the heat/humidity turns  you 
into a giant sweat ball....it's got to be really tough for the guys  down 
south to enjoy a ride in this kind of weather....at least we get a break 9  
months out of the year:)
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2013 11:34:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dconnitt@fuse.net writes:

I wonder  if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
I went down to the  garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
"vacation" camera  and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
Assembly" page.  You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
camera just  didn't do the color justice.'
Too rainy to do much  else.

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A  IRS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474@aol.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 11:41:51 2013
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 13:41:30 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <dc52c.539acb06.3f09a882@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
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Yeah,

Same thing up here in CNY. Lots of flooding in the valleys. Many rivers 
and creeks have over flowed multiple times.

It has rained pretty much every day since the start of the Memorial Day 
weekend. I havent had a Triumph out of the garage in over 3 weeks.

With all this humidity, it is going to make our big race next weekend 
very hard on us old folk.

I did 8 miles at 6 AM today and it just about killed me.

It is a good thing there is free Saranac beer after the race!

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 12:04:56 2013
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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:59:49 -0400
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
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Everybody complains about the weather, nobody ever does anything about it.

My wife was JUST complaining about all the rain were getting here in NC -
hasn't been but a couple years since we had drought water use restrictions  -
I think I prefer too much rain to not enough - but I LIKE Autocrossing and
racing in the rain

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 6, 2013, at 11:38 AM, "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I wonder if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
> I went down to the garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
> "vacation" camera and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
> Assembly" page. You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
> camera just didn't do the color justice.'
> Too rainy to do much else.
>
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
>
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 11:32:20 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
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On 7/6/13 10:06 AM, WBEECH wrote:
> Send that rain on down to west Texas, we're dying down here.
If it wasn't up hill most of the way to the Rockys I would suggest a 
really big network of canals across the country like those imagined on 
Mars up to a couple decades ago.  That way we could send water from 
where there is too much to where it is desperately needed.

The forest around  Flagstaff was tinder dry until last week.  We have 
picked up about 2-1/2 inches of rain since then and have a 40% chance of 
rain both today & Sunday.  We usually have a summer rainy season.  Hope 
it is a good one this year as last winter's snow was a bit light.  
Thankfully Humidity is not an issue in Flagstaff and our all time 
recoded high is 97 degrees.  Flagstaff is THE place in Arizona to go to 
get away from summer heat and almost no one has air conditioners in 
their house.  On the other hand we are also the winter ski place to go 
in the state.

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 14:13:34 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
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I flew over brownsville on the way down to ol mejico yesterday.
The Rio Grande no longer reaches the gulf.  Neither does the Colorado. I'm thinking some desalination plants run by lsr's might be in order.  I've seen plants in California and Florida.
Not TR, but related.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Date: Sat, Jul 6, 2013 1:32 pm


On 7/6/13 10:06 AM, WBEECH wrote:
> Send that rain on down to west Texas, we're dying down here.
If it wasn't up hill most of the way to the Rockys I would suggest a really big network of canals across the country like those imagined on Mars up to a couple decades ago.  That way we could send water from where there is too much to where it is desperately needed.

The forest around  Flagstaff was tinder dry until last week.  We have picked up about 2-1/2 inches of rain since then and have a 40% chance of rain both today & Sunday.  We usually have a summer rainy season.  Hope it is a good one this year as last winter's snow was a bit light.  Thankfully Humidity is not an issue in Flagstaff and our all time recoded high is 97 degrees.  Flagstaff is THE place in Arizona to go to get away from summer heat and almost no one has air conditioners in their house.  On the other hand we are also the winter ski place to go in the state.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 14:21:13 2013
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spook01@comcast.net wrote:
>   I'm thinking some desalination plants run by lsr's might be in order.

What do land speed racers have to do with this?

mjb.

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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <7502CDB294DA4B0882D52EA4781A7465@DaveLaptop><387B5C70-6532-46CD-97D4-03D65CFECD24@flash.net>
	<51D862B4.1080409@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 15:19:25 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I knew this was going to happen:  after almost constant rain for several 
months I rerouted some of the storm gutters to dump water into the pool 
instead of the alley.  has not rained one drop since.

-----Original Message----- 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 1:32 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

On 7/6/13 10:06 AM, WBEECH wrote:
> Send that rain on down to west Texas, we're dying down here.
If it wasn't up hill most of the way to the Rockys I would suggest a
really big network of canals across the country like those imagined on
Mars up to a couple decades ago.  That way we could send water from
where there is too much to where it is desperately needed.

The forest around  Flagstaff was tinder dry until last week.  We have
picked up about 2-1/2 inches of rain since then and have a 40% chance of
rain both today & Sunday.  We usually have a summer rainy season.  Hope
it is a good one this year as last winter's snow was a bit light.
Thankfully Humidity is not an issue in Flagstaff and our all time
recoded high is 97 degrees.  Flagstaff is THE place in Arizona to go to
get away from summer heat and almost no one has air conditioners in
their house.  On the other hand we are also the winter ski place to go
in the state.

TeriAnn 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 16:28:10 -0400
From: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] The Rope Trick
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I used it and it worked as advertised. I was putting on a new Roadster
Factory clutch pressure plate, and I just could not stop the engine from
rotating while trying to give the six hex head bolts that final torque to
20 ft-lbs. I pulled a spark plug out, and fed a foot of 3/8" nylon rope in.
Voila, no engine movement. It worked so well that I was thinking about
cutting up the rest of the rope and selling the pieces on Ebay. Any
potential takers?

Will Daehler
63 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 15:58:05 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Will Daehler'" <will.daehler@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <x8UW1l01B0koGQ6018UYz5>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 14:57:29 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] The Rope Trick
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Bad idea.  Give some people enough rope and they will hang themselves!  :)

Joe.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Will Daehler
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 1:28 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] The Rope Trick

Yes, I used it and it worked as advertised. I was putting on a new Roadster
Factory clutch pressure plate, and I just could not stop the engine from
rotating while trying to give the six hex head bolts that final torque to
20 ft-lbs. I pulled a spark plug out, and fed a foot of 3/8" nylon rope in.
Voila, no engine movement. It worked so well that I was thinking about
cutting up the rest of the rope and selling the pieces on Ebay. Any
potential takers?

Will Daehler
63 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 15:59:03 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Ted Schumacher'" <tedtsimx@bright.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <ed71d.3f9e2260.3f082ab7@aol.com>
  <51D827CE.7030206@bright.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 17:58:54 -0400
Thread-Index: AQFrDd8OYR6rT47lGfjSC3+VCJl3WgJdHXRumgwiujA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??
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That's what happened to my 62 TR4, except for the "real dog" part.  It was
titled a 64, but built early on 62.  When I purchased a few years ago and
brought to Florida from out of state, I had to show them the VIN and they
had an old book to look up the build year and they retitled it to a 1962.  
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
62 TR4
75 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ted Schumacher
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 10:21 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Build date question??

Hello list. With all the "build date" discussion, here is what really
happened in the '60's at the dealer level. We were a BMC/Standard
Triumph/Rootes dealer. Through 1967, at teh end of teh calendar year we were
allowed to send back the CO (manufacturer's certificate of origin) to the
appropriate mfg.  They would reissue an new CO shwoing the current calendar
year.  Starting in 1968 with the advent of all the US laws on emissions,
safety  and theft - think locking ignition w/dead bolt. VIN visible from
outside the car, etc. - we could no longer do this.  But this is how "year
of mfg" and year of car by title varied. 
Example, it's the first week of 1965. We send all gthe CCO's back to tghe
appropriate mfg.  A bit later in the month, the '64 TR4 has become a '65.
And if it was a real dog (color, equipment, interior) it was possible for
the '64, now '65 to become a '66 12 months later. Ted


On 7/5/2013 9:57 AM, Chip19474@aol.com wrote:
> Randall,
>   
> That's the best example of how crazy titling a Triumph can be!
>   
> It beats my TR6 which was built on July 5, 1976, but not shipped to the
USA
>   until December, 1976, and not sold until April, 
> 1977.....amazing....how did Brit  Leyland make any money leaving 
> products laying around the docks for so  long!!??  Geez, by the time 
> the first owner bought the car, the seals had  already started to dry rot
from nonuse.
>   
> I guess it was a good thing that Triumph wasn't building TR6s at that 
> point or the DOT would have called it a 1977 TR7....that would have raised
a few
>   eyebrows!
>   
> Chip
>   
>   
> In a message dated 7/4/2013 7:45:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes:
>
> Now  'funny' is the Sports 6 I used to have, which was built in 1963, 
> but sold  new as a 1965 model.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
>
>


--
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 18:03:00 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac56lDDyEVzCOX5SSHuzf2s3YFyj7A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a new clutch fork and hardened pin from Moss.  How tight do I tighten
this pin into the fork?  Is there a torque setting?  Should any threads be
showing?  I didn't really want to have the cross shaft and fork drilled for
the bolt upgrade as I don't have a drill press and knowing me, I would ruin
it.  Aren't there upgraded hardened  pins grade 8 and shouldn't they work
fine?  

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

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Liquid Salt Reactors 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Date: Sat, Jul 6, 2013 3:20 pm


spook01@comcast.net wrote:
>   I'm thinking some desalination plants run by lsr's might be in order.

What do land speed racers have to do with this?

mjb.

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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?b?UmFpbiwgUmFpbiwgUmFpbiwgUmFpbi4uLi4u?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Like washing and polishing a car in reverse.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Date: Sat, Jul 6, 2013 3:19 pm


I knew this was going to happen:  after almost constant rain for several months I rerouted some of the storm gutters to dump water into the pool instead of the alley.  has not rained one drop since.

-----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 1:32 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

On 7/6/13 10:06 AM, WBEECH wrote:
> Send that rain on down to west Texas, we're dying down here.
If it wasn't up hill most of the way to the Rockys I would suggest a
really big network of canals across the country like those imagined on
Mars up to a couple decades ago.  That way we could send water from
where there is too much to where it is desperately needed.

The forest around  Flagstaff was tinder dry until last week.  We have
picked up about 2-1/2 inches of rain since then and have a 40% chance of
rain both today & Sunday.  We usually have a summer rainy season.  Hope
it is a good one this year as last winter's snow was a bit light.
Thankfully Humidity is not an issue in Flagstaff and our all time
recoded high is 97 degrees.  Flagstaff is THE place in Arizona to go to
get away from summer heat and almost no one has air conditioners in
their house.  On the other hand we are also the winter ski place to go
in the state.

TeriAnn 
** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 15:40:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 3:03 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have a new clutch fork and hardened pin from Moss.  How tight do I
> tighten
> this pin into the fork?  Is there a torque setting?  Should any threads be
> showing?  I didn't really want to have the cross shaft and fork drilled for
> the bolt upgrade as I don't have a drill press...



Since it gets safety wired I didn't give much thought to torque, just
snugged it up.  I use an electric hand drill for the hole for the
additional bolt -- pretty easy, material not hardened and access is good.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 16:43:54 2013
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Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 18:43:48 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 seat installation & removal ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
  I have a mid production '2 that is finally seeing the road very soon 
(thanks to the list!!) and puzzling over the seat installation. Don't 
recall how I removed the seats these many years ago. I did get the 
driver's seat installed by removing the floor tracks and sliding the 
seat back & forth to re-engage the floor bolts.
Is there an easier way to install the seats? The passenger seat with the 
handbrake and tunnel so close looks like a tight one. My seat backs are 
fixed and my adjusters - supposed to be 'handed' are the 'same side' - 
both on the right side of the seat. Remove the seat pan tracks and try that?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 16:56:12 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 15:53:12 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac56lDDyEVzCOX5SSHuzf2s3YFyj7AABsQyA
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have a new clutch fork and hardened pin from Moss.  How 
> tight do I tighten this pin into the fork?

I pulled mine down pretty tight, maybe 25 ft-lb.  No spec that I can find.

> Aren't there upgraded hardened  pins grade 8 and 
> shouldn't they work fine? 

Probably OK, for as long as you're likely to drive it.  But I believe those
hardened pins are only "upgraded" compared to the junk that was being sold
before.  The original pins were very hard; my drill bit just skittered over
the surface and refused to bite.  But the original pin in TS39781LO lasted
over 40 years (and at least 200,000 miles), so that should be good enough.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 17:18:30 2013
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References: <51D89DA4.9070204@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 16:18:17 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 seat installation & removal ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In case it isn't clear -- you install the tracks first (sliding to reveal
bolts) then install the seat pans on the studs on the tracks.  Finally, you
drop in the seat bottom.

Geo


On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 3:43 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
>  I have a mid production '2 that is finally seeing the road very soon
> (thanks to the list!!) and puzzling over the seat installation. Don't
> recall how I removed the seats these many years ago. I did get the driver's
> seat installed by removing the floor tracks and sliding the seat back &
> forth to re-engage the floor bolts.
> Is there an easier way to install the seats? The passenger seat with the
> handbrake and tunnel so close looks like a tight one. My seat backs are
> fixed and my adjusters - supposed to be 'handed' are the 'same side' - both
> on the right side of the seat. Remove the seat pan tracks and try that?
> Thanks for any help with this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 18:45:49 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <7502CDB294DA4B0882D52EA4781A7465@DaveLaptop>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 20:45:21 -0400
Thread-Index: AQKaLAhp9DXKpu7N4OvMSaJJKgVoe5fA/W6A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

No different in Connecticut. Showers every day. Fields are so wet that I'm
not sure where I can even try to mow some late 1st cutting. 200 bales today
but that was sheer luck. 100 acres to go.  GT6 remains in the top of the
barn and the TR6 seldom goes out of the garage. Maybe we should start an
upper - market bottled water company!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 11:38 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

I wonder if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
I went down to the garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
"vacation" camera and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
Assembly" page. You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
camera just didn't do the color justice.'
Too rainy to do much else.

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 18:58:17 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 18:57:38 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
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Jim, you can do it. Drill the hole for the fork first and then use  
that as a guide for drilling the shaft. It doesn't have to be THAT  
precise as you're installing a bolt with a nut. Guaranteed you will  
sleep better if you do this mod. And as an added bonus you won't have  
to be precise about the torque on the original clutch fork pin. Snug  
tight will be good enough.


Bud

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Jul 6, 2013, at 4:03 PM, James Henningsen wrote:

> I have a new clutch fork and hardened pin from Moss.  How tight do I  
> tighten
> this pin into the fork?  Is there a torque setting?  Should any  
> threads be
> showing?  I didn't really want to have the cross shaft and fork  
> drilled for
> the bolt upgrade as I don't have a drill press and knowing me, I  
> would ruin
> it.  Aren't there upgraded hardened  pins grade 8 and shouldn't they  
> work
> fine?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 18:16:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] results.....water pump pulley alignment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I probably shouldn't admit to screw-ups but that's how we learn!  My original
question to the list was concerning  a mis-aligned water pump pulley.  I
noticed the water pump pulley was at least half inch farther forward than it
should be.  This is a newly restored tr-3 with less than 25-30 miles on it.

I
removed the pump and the pulley immediately fell off.  The nut that was
supposed to hold the pulley on was on the shaft but inside the pulley!  I
guess I had installed the water pump then slipped the pulley over the
shaft..........as a "test fit" and later managed to install the generator,
belt and tighten everything up without noticing.  I found I also had not
completely tightened the bottom generator mounting bolts.  

During the 25-30
miles I've driven the car since restoration the pulley had apparently been
turning partially on the shaft and partially on the snout of the water pump. 
I've also found various other nuts and bolts needing tightening.  Needless to
say I have the pulley appropriately mounted and am double checking other areas
specifically front suspension.

Just an FYI for others contemplating a
restoration.  Other stories out there? LOL

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 19:29:34 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 21:32:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A windshield installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I removed a decent windshield and granted the old rubber glazing got really
loose once I removed the plastic insert. So, I was wondering how hard it would
be for me to install the windshield myself? If I decided to do this, does
anyone know where I could pick up one of those wire tools that inserted the
plastic trim?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67  Triumph TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 19:50:27 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Alex&Janet Thomson'" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
References: <7502CDB294DA4B0882D52EA4781A7465@DaveLaptop>
	<002201ce7aab$42d0f5b0$c872e110$@charter.net>
	<4006AD78C21C4DC9ADC2B751C8D8BD96@bboffice>
	<002301ce7ab2$24f42330$6edc6990$@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 20:50:28 -0500
Thread-index: AQKaLAhp9DXKpu7N4OvMSaJJKgVoewKIageuAWAPqriXocdpsIAAAwyA
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We're currently at $12 for Coastal, $16 for Alf., down from $16 & $20
respectively last summer.  Can you extend you delivery range by a few miles?
It is getting so a poor boy can't afford to buy gas for his TR. 

TR content: Yes, my TR3s share the barn with the critters.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net] 
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 8:35 PM
To: wbeech@flash.net; 'Dave Connitt'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

$5.25 for 1st cutting and $6.25 for 2nd cutting, both delivered within 25
miles (I'm cheap). 40 lb. bales.  63 bale minimum load. 

Alex T.

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech@flash.net [mailto:wbeech@flash.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 9:21 PM
To: 'Alex&Janet Thomson'; 'Dave Connitt'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

What's a bale of hay go for in Connecticut? 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex&Janet Thomson
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 7:45 PM
To: 'Dave Connitt'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

No different in Connecticut. Showers every day. Fields are so wet that I'm
not sure where I can even try to mow some late 1st cutting. 200 bales today
but that was sheer luck. 100 acres to go.  GT6 remains in the top of the
barn and the TR6 seldom goes out of the garage. Maybe we should start an
upper - market bottled water company!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 11:38 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rain, Rain, Rain, Rain.....

I wonder if it is ever going to stop raining here in Cincinnati!
I went down to the garage and shot some pictures of the TR4A with our new
"vacation" camera and posted them on my webpage at the bottom of the "Final
Assembly" page. You can really see the color of the paint in these. My old
camera just didn't do the color justice.'
Too rainy to do much else.

http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 19:51:15 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1373159763.62449.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 20:51:14 -0500
Thread-index: Ac56r6NsYrNLSHpNQ8Gdc8gtcm8U0QABHm2Q
Subject: Re: [TR] results.....water pump pulley alignment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I once re-built a Hillman motor and forgot to put the cir-clips in to hold
the wristpins.  I did tell the guy about it when I sold the car, it blew
about a month after......

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 8:16 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] results.....water pump pulley alignment

I probably shouldn't admit to screw-ups but that's how we learn!  My
original question to the list was concerning  a mis-aligned water pump
pulley.  I noticed the water pump pulley was at least half inch farther
forward than it should be.  This is a newly restored tr-3 with less than
25-30 miles on it.

I
removed the pump and the pulley immediately fell off.  The nut that was
supposed to hold the pulley on was on the shaft but inside the pulley!  I
guess I had installed the water pump then slipped the pulley over the
shaft..........as a "test fit" and later managed to install the generator,
belt and tighten everything up without noticing.  I found I also had not
completely tightened the bottom generator mounting bolts.  

During the 25-30
miles I've driven the car since restoration the pulley had apparently been
turning partially on the shaft and partially on the snout of the water pump.

I've also found various other nuts and bolts needing tightening.  Needless
to say I have the pulley appropriately mounted and am double checking other
areas specifically front suspension.

Just an FYI for others contemplating a
restoration.  Other stories out there? LOL

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 20:15:18 2013
Return-Path: <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>
Delivered-To: mharc@autox.team.net
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 21:15:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR intermittantly dies - conclusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

recently acquired TR would run, die, run, die, etc.  seemed somewhat random
but I never got very far in it.

it was not the coil.

it was not the fuel pump.

it was not the carbs.

it was not the rotor.

all of these were done/replaced and did not resolve the issue.

this past week I pulled the gas tank and thoroughly washed it out and blew out
the gas lines.  I also replaced the condensor.  I also noticed, when replacing
the condensor, that the little nut that holds all that stuff down and apart
was loose.  not even finger tight.  it is now quite tight.

so although I changed three things and therefore cannot pinpoint a solution,
I donbt care because its fixed.  but my vote is on the loose nut.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul  6 20:24:42 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 19:24:23 -0700
References: <B1DE3EE1CC7B4FD79B9DB85D5514B3F2@DaveLaptop>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A windshield installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave,

I installed mine (many years ago), it wasn't difficult.  The worst part was
that I made a mess with the sealant, took a roll or two of paper towels to get
the glass clean!

I just pressed the trim in by hand.

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 01:55:33 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 00:55:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"dconnitt@fuse.net" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A windshield installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You don't need a special tool....it just presses in.

Chad in Tulsa

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 05:46:20 2013
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	<A03E6521740940F58BDBE16E0C8F2F2A@bboffice>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 07:45:26 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] results.....water pump pulley alignment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep - second pass of checks is always good.

I had a friend help with the TR2 and we were under a time crunch. The
generator bolts did not get tightened and I was haunted by my friends "I
dont' know how tight these should be" and my "use your best judgment"
answer.

About 7 miles from the house on our maiden voyage to the car show 3 hrs
away, I pulled over and the generator bolts were backed out and nearly
touching the belt.  30 mins later and a few burns, we were back on the
road. Would have been so much nicer to do that in my garage on a cold
engine...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 08:03:38 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 10:07:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing a TR4A windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all that responded on installing windshields.
I will get that rubber piece on order.
One more question regarding weatherstriping. I installed the rubber
weatherstriping around the door openings but there is a metal flange that I
think I still need to add what I think is callled "furflex" that is more trim
than weatherstriping. Is that true?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 08:33:35 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:33:17 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <E58CCEA153F647A9A625FFC95F0C5DAF@DaveLaptop>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Installing a TR4A windshield
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

It is hard to say. I am guessing it does seal the door a bit.

Does add some zing to the interior though.

For me since the top is down all the time, I am not really concerned how 
well the rubber seal + furflex seals the door.

Bob

On 07/07/2013 10:07 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> Thanks to all that responded on installing windshields.
> I will get that rubber piece on order.
> One more question regarding weatherstriping. I installed the rubber
> weatherstriping around the door openings but there is a metal flange that I
> think I still need to add what I think is callled "furflex" that is more trim
> than weatherstriping. Is that true?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 10:57:15 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 09:56:48 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A windshield installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 6:32 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> ... does anyone know where I could pick up one of those wire tools that
> inserted the plastic trim?
>


One suggestion on that plastic trim -- you might want to leave it long by a
couple of inches as, in my experience, it will shrink quite a bit later.

The last time I did mine I left about two inches overlap and drove with it
like that for a year.  Only then did I cut it to exact fit and install the
little trim piece over it.  Since then it has continued to shrink and the
gap is now large enough that the trim piece barely covers it.  Does that
stuff ever stop shrinking?

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 12:07:54 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 13:00:15 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1373220015;
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Cc: Shawn Frank <my71spit13@yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013.  Road America.  6-8 September 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you planning on going to the 11th Running of The Kastner Cup?

Would you like to save some money and increase your participation?

Register with VSCDA as a Crew Member of the Friends of Triumph!

$40.00 will get you:

Crew Status with The Kastner/Brock TR250K for the entire weekend.
Hanging out with Kas & Peg at the FOT Garages at Turn 14
An event poster you can have Kas sign.
Your own Paddock area for Triumphs Only inside of Turn 5
Friday Nite Triumph Car Show and Welcome Dinner at the Track.

$85.00 will get you the above and:

Track Touring one session on Saturday or Sunday
The 'Old Course Reenactment' in conjunction with the Gathering On The Green
(Sat)
Pre-Kastner Cup Pace Lap prior to the race.

Go to FOT-racing.com/ website and click on Driver & Crew Information for
printable form, fill it out and send it to VSCDA as directed.

This is a special deal and a peak experience in the Kastner Cup Series of 11
years.

Please forward this offer to you clubs, forms, and other friends.

August deadline.........

Thanks.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 14:16:44 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 16:16:07 -0400
References: <mailman.13.1373220004.10032.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A windshield installation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, 7 Jul 2013, at 09:56 PAM, Geo Hahn wrote:

>
> One suggestion on that plastic trim -- you might want to leave it long by a
> couple of inches as, in my experience, it will shrink quite a bit later.
>
> The last time I did mine I left about two inches overlap and drove with it
> like that for a year.  Only then did I cut it to exact fit and install the
> little trim piece over it.  Since then it has continued to shrink and the
> gap is now large enough that the trim piece barely covers it.  Does that
> stuff ever stop shrinking?
>
For that reason, TRF has had those closing clips manufactured in three sizes.
When, not if, it shrinks, you can slide on a larger clip.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 14:17:27 2013
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Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 14:17:14 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <B9024FD6-5D78-4DB6-B88C-CF6D6C727368@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013.  Road America.  6-8 September 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If I do show up it won't be in one of my Triumphs.  Oh well. Perhaps
someone going out on the track will have an empty passenger seat
that is just my size.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 14:55:27 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 13:52:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Smith <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013.  Road America.  6-8 September 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Joe
 
Thanks for this information, I'll certainly sign up my father and I,
the September vintage is one of the best events at RA, we attend every year. 
I look forward to meeting you all and putting some faces to e-mail names!  
 I
don't think I can get my TR6 back together in time for the event so please
don't shun the guys in the grey Mustang!
 
Thanks again Joe!
Steve
 
Jasmine/Black '69
 
 

________________________________
 From: Joe Alexander
<n197tr4@cs.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Cc: Shawn Frank
<my71spit13@yahoo.com> 
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 1:00 PM
Subject: [TR]
Kastner Cup 2013.  Road America.  6-8 September 2013
  

Are you planning on
going to the 11th Running of The Kastner Cup?

Would you like to save some
money and increase your participation?

Register with VSCDA as a Crew Member
of the Friends of Triumph!

$40.00 will get you:

Crew Status with The
Kastner/Brock TR250K for the entire weekend.
Hanging out with Kas & Peg at the
FOT Garages at Turn 14
An event poster you can have Kas sign.
Your own Paddock
area for Triumphs Only inside of Turn 5
Friday Nite Triumph Car Show and
Welcome Dinner at the Track.

$85.00 will get you the above and:

Track
Touring one session on Saturday or Sunday
The 'Old Course Reenactment' in
conjunction with the Gathering On The Green
(Sat)
Pre-Kastner Cup Pace Lap
prior to the race.

Go to FOT-racing.com/ website and click on Driver & Crew
Information for
printable form, fill it out and send it to VSCDA as directed.
This is a special deal and a peak experience in the Kastner Cup Series of 11
years.

Please forward this offer to you clubs, forms, and other friends.
August deadline.........

Thanks.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 15:13:20 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 16:02:23 -0500
To: Steve Smith <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013.  Road America.  6-8 September 2013
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. This KCup has taken on a life of it's own. I can't
explain it, but it has.

It is a premium event, developed over the years, by VSCDA and the Kornelis.

The last time TRs were featured was in 1996. Our time has come, the worlds
align, and we will will shine.

Regards,

Joe A

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 7, 2013, at 3:52 PM, Steve Smith <dogzbody1@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Joe
>
> Thanks for this information, I'll certainly sign up my father and I, the
September vintage is one of the best events at RA, we attend every year.
> I look forward to meeting you all and putting some faces to e-mail names!
>  I don't think I can get my TR6 back together in time for the event so
please don't shun the guys in the grey Mustang!
>
> Thanks again Joe!
> Steve
>
> Jasmine/Black '69
>
>
> From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Cc: Shawn Frank <my71spit13@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 1:00 PM
> Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup 2013. Road America. 6-8 September 2013
>
> Are you planning on going to the 11th Running of The Kastner Cup?
>
> Would you like to save some money and increase your participation?
>
> Register with VSCDA as a Crew Member of the Friends of Triumph!
>
> $40.00 will get you:
>
> Crew Status with The Kastner/Brock TR250K for the entire weekend.
> Hanging out with Kas & Peg at the FOT Garages at Turn 14
> An event poster you can have Kas sign.
> Your own Paddock area for Triumphs Only inside of Turn 5
> Friday Nite Triumph Car Show and Welcome Dinner at the Track.
>
> $85.00 will get you the above and:
>
> Track Touring one session on Saturday or Sunday
> The 'Old Course Reenactment' in conjunction with the Gathering On The Green
> (Sat)
> Pre-Kastner Cup Pace Lap prior to the race.
>
> Go to FOT-racing.com/ website and click on Driver & Crew Information for
> printable form, fill it out and send it to VSCDA as directed.
>
> This is a special deal and a peak experience in the Kastner Cup Series of
11
> years.
>
> Please forward this offer to you clubs, forms, and other friends.
>
> August deadline.........
>
> Thanks.
>
> Joe Alexander
> Friends of Triumph
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 19:54:22 2013
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Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 21:53:47 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Good day today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Got up early and moved mulch from 6 to 10am. After a recoup, i went to my
buddy's place to work on the tr3.  We touched up the paint. Cleaned the
front half of the frame and painted it. I ran tbe new harness and
terminated the engine compartment.

Then came the motor/trans. We got that in, in no time.

It's not my car or my project, but I'm having a great time.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul  7 21:03:53 2013
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References: <CANhzkeNzxF+f3FB4WYqgNHWd7Gcg-G1DcAuGsKx9ALgCXhBv_w@mail.gmail.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 22:01:46 -0500
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Good day today
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Excellent day!  Sometimes I enjoy working on other people's cars more than my
own.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 7, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Got up early and moved mulch from 6 to 10am. After a recoup, i went to my
> buddy's place to work on the tr3.  We touched up the paint. Cleaned the
> front half of the frame and painted it. I ran tbe new harness and
> terminated the engine compartment.
>
> Then came the motor/trans. We got that in, in no time.
>
> It's not my car or my project, but I'm having a great time.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  8 05:40:28 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 07:40:13 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Good day today
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Best of both worlds.  You get to work on a neat car and it's not your 
money!

Enjoy.

Dave

In a message dated 7/7/2013 8:53:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen@gmail.com writes: 
> Got up early and moved mulch from 6 to 10am. After a recoup, i went to my
> buddy's place to work on the tr3.  We touched up the paint. Cleaned the
> front half of the frame and painted it. I ran tbe new harness and
> terminated the engine compartment.
> 
> Then came the motor/trans. We got that in, in no time.
> 
> It's not my car or my project, but I'm having a great time.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  8 11:33:34 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Bud R" <levilevi@comcast.net>
References: <028001ce7a94$957a93f0$c06fbbd0$@gmail.com>
	<AEF45ECD-6F6B-4323-9E49-3E9AD03FEA22@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 22:32:52 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just drilled the extra hole all at once, quarter inch, grade 8 bolt with a 
nyloc nut.  The shaft is pretty hard steel, I am mr. cheapo, but it 
definitely pays to go to the hardware store and buy a new expensive drill 
bit for the job.

Good Luck, Greg

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bud R" <levilevi@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 6, 2013 7:57 PM
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin

> Jim, you can do it. Drill the hole for the fork first and then use
> that as a guide for drilling the shaft. It doesn't have to be THAT
> precise as you're installing a bolt with a nut. Guaranteed you will
> sleep better if you do this mod. And as an added bonus you won't have
> to be precise about the torque on the original clutch fork pin. Snug
> tight will be good enough.
>
>
> Bud
>
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 6, 2013, at 4:03 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
>
>> I have a new clutch fork and hardened pin from Moss.  How tight do I
>> tighten
>> this pin into the fork?  Is there a torque setting?  Should any
>> threads be
>> showing?  I didn't really want to have the cross shaft and fork
>> drilled for
>> the bolt upgrade as I don't have a drill press and knowing me, I
>> would ruin
>> it.  Aren't there upgraded hardened  pins grade 8 and shouldn't they
>> work
>> fine?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Jim Henningsen
>>
>> Ocala FL
>>
>> 62 TR4
>>
>> 75 TR6
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  8 14:59:48 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <028001ce7a94$957a93f0$c06fbbd0$@gmail.com><AEF45ECD-6F6B-4323-9E49-3E9AD03FEA22@comcast.net>
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 15:53:54 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
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and probably everyone but me knew that you should oil the drill bit 
periodically

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 10:32 PM
To: Bud R
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin

I just drilled the extra hole all at once, quarter inch, grade 8 bolt with a
nyloc nut.  The shaft is pretty hard steel, I am mr. cheapo, but it
definitely pays to go to the hardware store and buy a new expensive drill
bit for the job.

Good Luck, Greg 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul  8 20:35:59 2013
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Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 21:19:06 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin
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---- Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote: 
> and probably everyone but me knew that you should oil the drill bit 
> periodically

And "cutting oil" (got mine @ Home Depot) will help more than just whatever's in the oil can.  But anything (even baby oil) is better than nothing.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul  9 15:01:10 2013
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TSI clutch disc
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On another list folks have been discussing various clutch options for 
racing.
Ted Schumacher provides heavy duty clutch discs.  Wish I would have had
one in Killer at the, I think Hudson, WI, VTR meet where our OEM disk 
was in the
process of tearing itself apart.  If I had a dollar for every time folks 
said I
should bleed the system or check the thrust washers every time the gears 
ground
I could buy a dozen of these!

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=159

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 11 07:59:16 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 09:51:47 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5+PXHOGPBK/CmQRGaQOwe/6W6flQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
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Dumb question #72. Which way does a new trunk seal go on the trunk?  The
seal has a higher edge on the top.  Does the higher edge go on the inside of
the trunk lip or the outside.  I can't find a pic and didn't take a photo
when I took it off 18 months ago.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 CT5212LO

Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 11 08:29:37 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 10:29:31 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable
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Hello List:
I think this has been visited before, but having a real problem with the 
chokes on my rebuilt SU's (H4). Can't get the cable to even budge the 
chokes. Even pulled the knob off the cable while tugging on the cable. I 
have rebuilt the carbs, polished and lightly lubed the jets, installed a 
new cable but still no luck in getting the chokes to even budge. I can 
move the chokes by hand, although they are stiff.
Someone suggested just using the front choke and disconnecting the choke 
linkage to the rear carb. A practical solution? Car should still start 
and get to a workable 'choke off' temp.
Any help with this one??
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 10:42:34 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac5+RKKqfoJHXADKSeSS4YNid5HGqw==
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Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
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Found the answer to the trunk seal issue. The cross section is shaped like
an "h" and the high part of the h goes to the outside.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <002e01ce7e44$e2ba9e40$a82fdac0$@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 08:24:58 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim --

FWIW - there seems to be more than one seal profile being sold --

Seal 1<http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/Seal-1_zps90facf2f.jpg>

Seal 2<http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/Seal-2_zps39e73a91.jpg>

So if you have questions as you proceed (such as how do you keep the darn
thing from pulling loose when you close the lid?) it may help to specify
which seal you have.

Geo



On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 7:42 AM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Found the answer to the trunk seal issue. The cross section is shaped like
> an "h" and the high part of the h goes to the outside.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 11:40:12 -0400
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine is from TRF and looks like second one.  Called Dave at TRF and he said
high part of the h of their seal goes on the outside of the lip. In any event
I put it on this am.  I hope it sticks cause that weatherstrip stuff is a mess
to deal with.
Jim Henningsen

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 11, 2013, at 11:24 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> Jim --
>
> FWIW - there seems to be more than one seal profile being sold --
>
> Seal 1
>
> Seal 2
>
> So if you have questions as you proceed (such as how do you keep the darn
thing from pulling loose when you close the lid?) it may help to specify which
seal you have.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 7:42 AM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
wrote:
>> Found the answer to the trunk seal issue. The cross section is shaped like
>> an "h" and the high part of the h goes to the outside.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jim Henningsen
>>
>> 62 TR4
>>
>> 75 TR6
>>
>> Ocala FL
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 09:02:41 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim -

The 2nd is also what I used.  Hope it stays put for you -- I finally had to
use Gorilla Glue to keep it from pulling loose along the lower edge when
the lid was closed.

Geo

On Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 8:40 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mine is from TRF and looks like second one.  Called Dave at TRF and he
> said high part of the h of their seal goes on the outside of the lip. In
> any event I put it on this am.  I hope it sticks cause that weatherstrip
> stuff is a mess to deal with.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 11 11:24:39 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 13:15:55 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1373562955;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not much help, I'm afraid but a suggestion: if the choke cable is long 
enough to require some loops or arcs to accommodate the extra length you might 
try shortening the cable so that the run is as straight as practical.  This 
will reduce the friction of the cable moving in the sheath.

Dave

In a message dated 7/11/2013 9:29:34 AM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham@execulink.com writes: 
> I think this has been visited before, but having a real problem with the 
> chokes on my rebuilt SU's (H4). Can't get the cable to even budge the 
> chokes. Even pulled the knob off the cable while tugging on the cable. I 
> have rebuilt the carbs, polished and lightly lubed the jets, installed a 
> new cable but still no luck in getting the chokes to even budge. I can 
> move the chokes by hand, although they are stiff.
> Someone suggested just using the front choke and disconnecting the choke 
> linkage to the rear carb. A practical solution? Car should still start 
> and get to a workable 'choke off' temp.
> Any help with this one??

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Angelo, I had the same problem, get the jets loose enough to move freely and
they leak. First thing to do, however, is isolate the problem. I would
suggest disconnecting the cable and making sure that it moves easily when
not attached to the carbs. Routing around the battery box can cause kinks
that bind the cable. I seem to remember having to shorten the cable to get
it to work right, of course I have a TR3A so there may be some differences.
I also took the inner cable out and coated it with graphite which seemed to
help.

Bob
   

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 7:30 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable

Hello List:
I think this has been visited before, but having a real problem with the
chokes on my rebuilt SU's (H4). Can't get the cable to even budge the
chokes. Even pulled the knob off the cable while tugging on the cable. I
have rebuilt the carbs, polished and lightly lubed the jets, installed a new
cable but still no luck in getting the chokes to even budge. I can move the
chokes by hand, although they are stiff.
Someone suggested just using the front choke and disconnecting the choke
linkage to the rear carb. A practical solution? Car should still start and
get to a workable 'choke off' temp.
Any help with this one??
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 14:48:22 -0400
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I ended up going with the TR6 trunk seal on the TR4,  I could never get the
trunk lid to close

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Trunk Seal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I also used a TR6 trunk seal on the Tr250.
Darrell

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 11, 2013, at 2:48 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> I ended up going with the TR6 trunk seal on the TR4,  I could never get the
> trunk lid to close
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 21:10:01 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 - very stiff choke cable
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too.  I ended up keeing them a bit loose and  letting them leak a bit
until the cork was soaked up and then tightened bit by bit until they
stopped leaking and the choke still worked.

I must admit - I still have the odd brown stain on the inner fender well
where gas drips....

I intend to try some viton orings instead of the cork.  I think Randall had
good luck with those on the H6.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 18:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

One thing I noticed during first drives after restoration in my tr-3 is a
significant vibration at highway speed.  I've tried to isolate by coasting out
of gear and engine turned off and it still happens, so I'm pretty sure its
driveshaft.  Am in the process of removinghe drive shaft in order to check
that out.

I've always been curious about a weight that is attached to the
tail shaft of my transmission.  The weight is attached by a steel band around
the tranny tailshaft.  The weight itself is round with a hole through the
middle that keeps it attached.  If I remember right the bolt holding the
weight was loose when I removed it so the weight could spin.  When I
re-attached it I tightened it down tight so it can't move.

My question is.  
Could this weight on the tail shaft be part of my vibration problem?  Could I
simply remove it and go without it?  (of the several other trannys I've seen
I've never seen this weight so I wonder if it is necessary).  If the weight is
needed how is it attached?  Tight or loose?

Thanks

gary n.

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Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 21:38:27 -0400
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
References: <1373591895.85727.YahooMailNeo@web120603.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] vibration
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,

Have you ruled out tires out of balance or out of line?  even with the 
engine off, they'd still could be the issue.

Does it happen once you reach a  certain speed?  Also, have you 
downshifted once the vibration starts to see if its related to engine speed?

I you speed up once the vibration starts does it change?

just some thoughts.

Doug

p.s. I seem to remember some comments about a vibration damper which I 
think was described similar to weight on the tail shaft.

Take a look at this:
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/rahtr4/8thewholesetup.jpg


On 7/11/2013 9:18 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> One thing I noticed during first drives after restoration in my tr-3 is a
> significant vibration at highway speed.  I've tried to isolate by coasting out
> of gear and engine turned off and it still happens, so I'm pretty sure its
> driveshaft.  Am in the process of removinghe drive shaft in order to check
> that out.
>
> I've always been curious about a weight that is attached to the
> tail shaft of my transmission.  The weight is attached by a steel band around
> the tranny tailshaft.  The weight itself is round with a hole through the
> middle that keeps it attached.  If I remember right the bolt holding the
> weight was loose when I removed it so the weight could spin.  When I
> re-attached it I tightened it down tight so it can't move.
>
> My question is.
> Could this weight on the tail shaft be part of my vibration problem?  Could I
> simply remove it and go without it?  (of the several other trannys I've seen
> I've never seen this weight so I wonder if it is necessary).  If the weight is
> needed how is it attached?  Tight or loose?
>
> Thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 11 19:48:02 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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References: <1373591895.85727.YahooMailNeo@web120603.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 20:47:32 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] vibration
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

vibration imho is usually a u joint, often the drive shaft.  twice I've 
suffered such, and both times its been the driveshaft

these people - http://www.inlandtruck.com/  have local offices in many 
cities.  I took it to them; the guy said it was "s" shaped, and then I got a 
15 minute dissertation on u joints!  was very pleased with the results and 
it wasn't expensive.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 12 04:09:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 06:08:26 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I also have used a fleet trucking supply company to do driveshaft work,
including balancing.

Wheels out of round, balanced incorrectly (wire wheels need special
attention) , alignment, are some other things that come to mind.

My car had a nasty shake that came on at 55 mph and stopped at 68....

I dont know what fixed it, but during the rebuild, i rebushed with new
trunnions , replaced 2 out of spec rims, and replaced the hula dancing
idler arm....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 13:32:49 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Clutch Fork Pin Upgrade Update
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone with their tips on installing the bolt and nut upgrade
for the clutch fork.  I installed the fork on the shaft, screwed in the
hardened pin and used a punch to get a nice starting point on the flat side
of the fork.  I tried one of my existing < inch drill bits and it wasnt
cutting much.  I had a new one ready per list recommendation and with some
cutting oil it went through like butta.   I didnt even have to use a
vise.  The new bit made a huge difference. Did it on my bench with a block
of wood underneath.  Eyeballed the angle, drilled and voila. I used a < inch
grade 8 bolt, locknut and washer. Works great!



Turns out the 3m super weather stripping adhesive is not so super.   It
didnt want to stick to parts of the rubber seal for the trunk lid.  May
need to use some gorilla glue to try and get that pesky seal to stay in
place.



Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 14:17:55 -0500
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  >
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	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The weight on the tranny is to help with gearshift vibration as I recall.

Others have had excellent suggestions.  One thing I'd like to throw 
in the mix is: "what is the frequency of the vibration?".  If it's a 
wheel out of balance or out of true it seems like you'd have a pretty 
low frequency vibration.  I just replaced a failed U-joint on my TR-4 
racer and that one was a pretty high frequency vibration - in my case 
the vibration quit when I was off the power.  The frequency of the 
vibration will depend on the RPM of the out of balance / out of true 
thing that is spinning.  Driveshaft spins faster than wheels do.

Not sure if that helps, but food for thought.

vroom, vroom
Tony Drews

At 08:18 PM 7/11/2013, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>One thing I noticed during first drives after restoration in my tr-3 is a
>significant vibration at highway speed.  I've tried to isolate by coasting out
>of gear and engine turned off and it still happens, so I'm pretty sure its
>driveshaft.  Am in the process of removinghe drive shaft in order to check
>that out.
>
>I've always been curious about a weight that is attached to the
>tail shaft of my transmission.  The weight is attached by a steel band around
>the tranny tailshaft.  The weight itself is round with a hole through the
>middle that keeps it attached.  If I remember right the bolt holding the
>weight was loose when I removed it so the weight could spin.  When I
>re-attached it I tightened it down tight so it can't move.
>
>My question is.
>Could this weight on the tail shaft be part of my vibration problem?  Could I
>simply remove it and go without it?  (of the several other trannys I've seen
>I've never seen this weight so I wonder if it is necessary).  If the weight is
>needed how is it attached?  Tight or loose?
>
>Thanks
>
>gary n.
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 16:24:26 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Silly thing to add, but when I rotated my tires recently I got a nasty
vibration in the front.

I like Tony's comment about relating gear selection to vibration level to
isolate the drive shaft as a culprit.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 20:13:33 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TR3 restrictor valve - question
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Rebuilding a TR3a and not sure about the state of the brake line restrictor
valve (part of the 3-way union on the front right frame).  Questions - any
particular way of assessing whether it is functional on the bench, and what
are the consequences of a dysfunctional valve?  Thanks for any help.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 18:04:16 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 restrictor valve - question
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> Rebuilding a TR3a and not sure about the state of the brake 
> line restrictor valve (part of the 3-way union on the front 
> right frame).  Questions - any particular way of assessing 
> whether it is functional on the bench, and what are the 
> consequences of a dysfunctional valve?  Thanks for any help.

What I did was to disassemble it for cleaning, and then reassemble without
the internal plunger.  Removed all worries about it not working! <G>

The only downside is that if you drive the car really hard (like drifting on
stock tires), then the brake pedal may be low on the next application.
Somewhat disconcerting if you aren't expecting it, but not too serious
otherwise.

If the low pedal bugs you, a better solution than the valve is uncle Jack's
spindle spacer kit (available through TRF and maybe ARE).  But I've been
driving without either for so long that I'm just used to it.

The purpose of the valve is to hold a small amount of pressure in the
braking system all the time, around 7 psi if I recall correctly.  You could
probably test it on the bench by attaching a line to the output, filling
with brake fluid and then applying 5 psi or so of air pressure.

But 7 psi is enough to make the front brakes drag noticeably, which always
bugged me until I disabled the valve.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 13 10:21:37 2013
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From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 12:16:40 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?
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59 TR3A

 

Symptoms:

Suddenly started to run poorly at low RPM under load.

Blowing smoke from both the vent tube and exhaust

 

Procedure:

Reset valve clearance to 11 thousandths across the board

Static set the timing to 4 degrees BTDC

Warmed the engine 

Pulled all plugs

Dry checked and then wet checked with the following results:

 

1)      D 152     W 170

2)      D 152     W 165

3)      D 120     W 140

4)      D 155     W 180

 

Do I have a broken ring on #3?  Also noted that when I pulled the plugs
after warm up that the #3 was wet. Not sure best approach.  I'm quessing the
engine was last rebuilt around 1990, and has maybe as much as 50K miles.

 

Thanks in advance for advice

 

Ed

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Ed Oot'" <eoot@citlink.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 10:05:49 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?
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Well, for sure you have something wrong on #3.  With those results, it's
hard to say for certain just what; but the problem should become apparent
when you get the head off.  If there isn't anything obviously wrong with the
head (like oil caked on the back on the intake valve for #3, showing that
the oil was going past the valve stem) or obviously wrong with the #3
cylinder wall; then pull the #3 piston out and see what you find.

My guess is either broken ring, or scored cylinder wall.

However, 120 psi of compression should still let the engine run reasonably
well.  My guess is that the poor performance is mostly from the fouled plug.
So if you want to wait until after the driving season, just change the plug
(maybe to one step hotter to help avoid fouling again) and go on.

-- Randall 

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Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 20:53:37 +0000 (UTC)
From: pdqtr6@comcast.net
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Subject: [TR] Back-up Light Circuit on a 72 TR6
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone talk me through the back-up light circuit on a 72 TR6? I can't get the car inspected unless all the lights work, and the Summer's slipping away faster than I can imagine! 


Here's where I am with this project: 


I have taken the transmission cover out of the car and have determined that with the key in the "run" position I am not getting power to the switch on the side of the top cover of the transmission. The connections between the switch and the rest of the circuit (where they connect to allow removal of the transmission tunnel) are also "dead" 


I have looked at the diagram on page 488 of the Bentley's manual, but am confused by some of the symbols that I find in the circuit (found at the bottom of the diagram on the right side.) It seems that before the power-in wire connects to the seatbelt warning, gearbox switch (#66 - and what is that and where in the car is it?) there is a resistor in the wire (indicated by a rectangle in the line). From there, the line goes to the reverse lamp switch (#34) and from there to another resistor, then to a light (the circle with an "X") in it) and finally to the 2 lamps in the rear lamp housing (#35). Do I understand the symbols correctly? Is a rectangle a resistor? Is a circle with an "X" really a bulb? If so, where are they physically in the car? And where should I look to find the break in continuity before the switch? 


I'm usually pretty good at figuring electrical problems out, but this one has me stumped. I know that there are some listers who live for sorting out problems-Lucas, so I'm throwing myself at your feet - HELP! 



Tom Walling 

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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <pdqtr6@comcast.net>, "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1727383710.975224.1373748817364.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 17:48:58 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Back-up Light Circuit on a 72 TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The first thing you want to do is download 
(http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf) the free AAW schematics that Dan 
Masters developed about 10 years ago with input from many list members. This 
is a much more accurate schematic and is specific to model year. The other 
thing that is a great help is Dan's Electrical Maintenance Handbook 
available from Moss. Besides step by step trouble shooting it includes a 
section on all of the symbols.

As I'm looking at the schematic the reverse light power is on the power side 
of the seatbelt neutral switch so the switch doesn't impact its operation.

- rectangle box =  bullet connector
- circle w/ X = 1 pin of a multi pin connector for the main to rear harness. 
Located near the floor on driver's side
- circle that's solid = splice

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more





-----Original Message----- 
From: pdqtr6@comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 4:53 PM
To: NET Member Mailing ; Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Back-up Light Circuit on a 72 TR6

Could someone talk me through the back-up light circuit on a 72 TR6? I can't 
get the car inspected unless all the lights work, and the Summer's slipping 
away faster than I can imagine!


Here's where I am with this project:


I have taken the transmission cover out of the car and have determined that 
with the key in the "run" position I am not getting power to the switch on 
the side of the top cover of the transmission. The connections between the 
switch and the rest of the circuit (where they connect to allow removal of 
the transmission tunnel) are also "dead"


I have looked at the diagram on page 488 of the Bentley's manual, but am 
confused by some of the symbols that I find in the circuit (found at the 
bottom of the diagram on the right side.) It seems that before the power-in 
wire connects to the seatbelt warning, gearbox switch (#66 - and what is 
that and where in the car is it?) there is a resistor in the wire (indicated 
by a rectangle in the line). From there, the line goes to the reverse lamp 
switch (#34) and from there to another resistor, then to a light (the circle 
with an "X") in it) and finally to the 2 lamps in the rear lamp housing 
(#35). Do I understand the symbols correctly? Is a rectangle a resistor? Is 
a circle with an "X" really a bulb? If so, where are they physically in the 
car? And where should I look to find the break in continuity before the 
switch?


I'm usually pretty good at figuring electrical problems out, but this one 
has me stumped. I know that there are some listers who live for sorting out 
problems-Lucas, so I'm throwing myself at your feet - HELP!



Tom Walling

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 10:47:38 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 12:46:46 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6AsROQmj+P0PCYS5axhj3cRfyQTg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Had a little issue getting the accelerator pedal shaft assembly apart to
replace bushings on my early four.  I removed the pin securing the assembly
on the pedal side, but the shaft did not separate and I now need a shaft.
Don't ask.   Please contact me directly if you have an early 62 TR4
accelerator pedal shaft assembly for sale or have a contact for me to track
down.  How are these shafts supposed to separate? I thought you removed the
pin and that would release the assembly.    

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 14:27:52 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 16:27:36 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I too could use some help, while you are at it, i lost one of the sheet
metal flanges that capture the nylon ball of the throttle shaft.

Anyone got one of those lying around?

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 14 16:09:53 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 17:09:02 -0500
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Guy working on my car just decided to take a cutting torch to the rod.  I was
quite upset but he welded it back together and after grinding and paint you
don't see the injury.

Just saying ,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 14, 2013, at 11:46 AM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Had a little issue getting the accelerator pedal shaft assembly apart to
> replace bushings on my early four.  I removed the pin securing the assembly
> on the pedal side, but the shaft did not separate and I now need a shaft.
> Don't ask.   Please contact me directly if you have an early 62 TR4
> accelerator pedal shaft assembly for sale or have a contact for me to track
> down.  How are these shafts supposed to separate? I thought you removed the
> pin and that would release the assembly.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'WBEECH'" <wbeech@flash.net>
References: <019d01ce80b1$bbb01950$33104bf0$@gmail.com>
	<3CA54280-649C-4456-B9C8-2AFBB933340B@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 18:21:25 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJHyg5ORJdcfIc3/OjasWihwXjhZAGsH2CymGTLtSA=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am working on that solution as well.  I now understand why they designed a
different shaft for the TR6. jim

-----Original Message-----
From: WBEECH [mailto:wbeech@flash.net] 
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:09 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Part Needed

Guy working on my car just decided to take a cutting torch to the rod.  I
was quite upset but he welded it back together and after grinding and paint
you don't see the injury. 

Just saying ,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 14, 2013, at 11:46 AM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Had a little issue getting the accelerator pedal shaft assembly apart 
> to replace bushings on my early four.  I removed the pin securing the 
> assembly on the pedal side, but the shaft did not separate and I now need
a shaft.
> Don't ask.   Please contact me directly if you have an early 62 TR4
> accelerator pedal shaft assembly for sale or have a contact for me to 
> track down.  How are these shafts supposed to separate? I thought you
removed the
> pin and that would release the assembly.    
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> 
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 
> 75 TR6
> 
> Ocala, FL
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 06:41:10 2013
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From: "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 08:37:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Lucas generator rebuild or not?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My red warning light came on yesterday afternoon, all looked ok, belt, wires,
etc. so I need to do something with the generator. Its the car's original and
I had it rebuilt back in 1985. Am I ok to have it rebuilt again or should I
find a new one at this point, I do want to keep a generator on the car. I have
a very good shop nearby that will rebuild it for 125.00. Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 07:59:03 2013
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References: <16ED8381B7BC4883AB869604C45DCE68@home45dd83c8be>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 06:58:47 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: davewillner <davewillner@pa.net>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Lucas generator rebuild or not?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave --

Have you tested the generator itself?  The procedure is pretty straight
forward and is outlined in most manuals and certainly in the Lucas manual
which (as I recall) is somewhere online.

Just because " all looked ok, belt, wires, etc" I wouldn't assume the
problem is the generator -- or if it is, that the problem isn't something
simpler.

Geo



On Mon, Jul 15, 2013 at 5:37 AM, davewillner <davewillner@pa.net> wrote:

> My red warning light came on yesterday afternoon, all looked ok, belt,
> wires,
> etc. so I need to do something with the generator. Its the car's original
> and
> I had it rebuilt back in 1985. Am I ok to have it rebuilt again or should I
> find a new one at this point, I do want to keep a generator on the car. I
> have
> a very good shop nearby that will rebuild it for 125.00. Thanks
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg PA
> 59 TR3A
> 70 MGB
> 70 BSA 441 VS
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Lucas generator rebuild or not?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 As Geo notes, it is worth thoroughly checking the entire system. It could be
the voltage regulator, it could be just generator brushes...or it could be the
generator.

Meanwhile, to me it's a no-brainer. You got 26 years out of it first time
around and another 28 years after the first rebuild; with any luck, this
rebuild should take you to 2043! :)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: davewillner <davewillner@pa.net>


My red warning light came on yesterday afternoon, all looked ok, belt, wires,
etc. so I need to do something with the generator. Its the car's original and
I had it rebuilt back in 1985. Am I ok to have it rebuilt again or should I
find a new one at this point, I do want to keep a generator on the car. I
have
a very good shop nearby that will rebuild it for 125.00. Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 09:32:55 2013
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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:32:23 +0100
Thread-Topic: Engine oil?
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Subject: [TR] Engine oil?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have completed my first post rebuild 500 miles, quite happily, few bits and
pieces but generally a successful shake down of my TR2. I want to change out
the running-in oil. Is there a consensus on the best engine oil 10w/30, 20w/50
or a straight monograde, should I choose a classic car oil or will a modern
type do. I should avoid synthetics, right?
Regards
John
1954 TR2 (long door)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 11:20:55 -0500
To: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
Cc: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh boy, here we go again.  John, take notes cause you just opened the gate,
again.

I use Valvoline VR1 conventional 20-50w, it contains the needed levels of ZDDP
for our cars.  I have 5,500 miles on the rebuilt original motor now.   It is
classified as a racing oil but available at most local shops at a reasonable
price, even on sale occasionally.

The multi weights work better, remember they did not have them in 1954.

I have a tally of comments from the list somewhere, I'll try and find it and
send it to you.

All the best,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 10:32 AM, John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie> wrote:

> I have completed my first post rebuild 500 miles, quite happily, few bits
and
> pieces but generally a successful shake down of my TR2. I want to change
out
> the running-in oil. Is there a consensus on the best engine oil 10w/30,
20w/50
> or a straight monograde, should I choose a classic car oil or will a modern
> type do. I should avoid synthetics, right?
> Regards
> John
> 1954 TR2 (long door)
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Cc: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

I use Brad Penn 20/50 racing oil on all 3 of my Triumphs, 3, 4 and 6.

Bob

On 07/15/2013 11:32 AM, John Gillis wrote:
> I have completed my first post rebuild 500 miles, quite happily, few bits and
> pieces but generally a successful shake down of my TR2. I want to change out
> the running-in oil. Is there a consensus on the best engine oil 10w/30, 20w/50
> or a straight monograde, should I choose a classic car oil or will a modern
> type do. I should avoid synthetics, right?
> Regards
> John
> 1954 TR2 (long door)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 11:59:28 2013
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
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To: JGILLIS@tcd.ie, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
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John,
 
I don't race the TR4....and put less than 1000 miles on it per year.   For 
the TR4, I use a ZDDP additive with good old Pennzoil, Quaker  State or 
Castrol 20W/50 that I buy on sale at Pep Boys, WalMart,  etc......been using 
these brands in all of my cars for many, many years and many  thousands of 
miles - never had any engine problems attributable to oil.
 
I like the 20W/50 weight because I think it helps keep the motor a little  
cooler in the summer and since I don't drive it in the winter, I'm not too  
concerned about hard starting thicker oil.
 
In addition to using a good brand of oil, I think the best advice is  
regular oil/filter changes.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/15/2013 11:32:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
JGILLIS@tcd.ie writes:

I have  completed my first post rebuild 500 miles, quite happily, few bits  
and
pieces but generally a successful shake down of my TR2. I want to  change 
out
the running-in oil. Is there a consensus on the best engine oil  10w/30, 
20w/50
or a straight monograde, should I choose a classic car oil  or will a modern
type do. I should avoid synthetics,  right?
Regards
John
1954 TR2 (long door)

**  triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474@aol.com

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From: Bill_Beecher <bill_beecher@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 15:12:38 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Dash rail bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have a source for the carriage-type bolts used the dash rails of the
TR2-3 & 3A up to TS60000.  Cannot even find a 1/4x28-2" carriage bolt that I
could modify to fit.

Last time I bought a 5/16 bolt and re-threaded it to work.  It worked but I
really didn't want to do five of them that way.

Thanks,
Bill

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:32:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'<triumphs@autox.team.net>'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] Rounder and rounder we go
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About 10 years ago I paid a packet to have Boston Rim and Wheel Works
straighten my egg-shaped TR6 rims. The work was good.

Sadly, the dreadful overly-expensive and under-repaired goat paths of Quebec
have taken their toll and the work must be done again. Unfortunately, other
than some old youtube videos it seems that rimandwheelworks is no more.

I really like the look of the original wheels and do not want to go to alloy.
I'd buy new, but they aren't being made I believe.

Does anybody know who can do steel wheel straightening?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 22:03:38 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>,  "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net"
	<triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
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---- John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie> wrote: 
> Is there a consensus on the best engine oil 10w/30, 20w/50
> or a straight monograde, should I choose a classic car oil or will a modern
> type do. I should avoid synthetics, right?

Nope, not much consensus.  I ran Valvoline 20W50 full synthetic for many years; no issues related to oil that I could see.  Contrary to urban myth, it did not leak any worse than conventional oil.

At one time, there might have been a reason to avoid "multi-weight" oils.  Back in the 70s, I had a lot of trouble with the viscosity improver breaking down, so that 10W30 would end up as about 5 weight oil after just a few thousand miles.  However, I believe oil chemistry (and particularly the viscosity improver additives) have improved greatly since then; anyway I have never seen the problem since then.

Lately I've been running the Valvoline VR1 conventional oil.  In spite of the name, it meets the API qualifications for "street" oil (meaning it has an adequate amount of detergent, etc); but it also contains the higher levels of ZDDP that some people feel are important.  I'm still not convinced that it is required for our engines (especially unmodified engines driven on the street); but it seems like cheap insurance.

-- Randall

PS, this may or may not be relevant to anything.  I also run Valvoline full synthetic in my "LBC support vehicle", which has a Chevy 350 motor with some 260,000 miles on it now.  A few years back, someone gave me a gallon of Mobil 1 and I used that instead of the Valvoline.  The Mobil 1 really did leak all over the place, oil consumption went up dramatically.  Fortunately it dropped back down as I replaced it (one quart at a time) with Valvoline.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <D3494ED6-0F06-4BBB-AA7E-3EE1F8AAEEC9@flash.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 17:41:27 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Dash rail bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Subject: Dash rail bolts
>
> Anyone have a source for the carriage-type bolts used the dash rails of the
TR2-3 & 3A up to TS60000.  Cannot even find a 1/4x28-2" carriage bolt that I
could modify to fit.
>
> Last time I bought a 5/16 bolt and re-threaded it to work.  It worked but I
really didn't want to do five of them that way.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 16:47:49 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 18:47:03 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Rear hub studs
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Restoring a TR3 and a previous owner took a hacksaw to the rear studs -
presumably to use wire wheels.  I want to go back to the regular studs -
what is the best way to remove the old ones from the hub?  Can they be
driven out or must they be turned?  Remove from the front or the rear?
Thanks for any advice.

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <006b01ce81ad$3a9435c0$afbca140$@uprichard.net>
From: Bill Babbitt <wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 19:36:05 -0400
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear hub studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the very same situation with my TR3a.
The studs are threaded in from the outside. If you look closely, the portion
of the stud that extends thru the hub plate is peened (actually looks smeared)
over. You'll need to very carefully grind that back with your Dremmel, keeping
the grit out of your bearings. Then you can screw two nuts on back-to-back and
unscrew the stud out the outboard side.

When I put the new studs in, I found that there was no way I could peen the
end over. Ultimately, I put down a series of light tack welds where I would
have liked to peen the  bolt over; taking great care to keep the heat down in
the process. Didn't want to soften the bolts. Ground smooth for a final
finish.

No issues since.

Bill Babbitt


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 6:47 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

> Restoring a TR3 and a previous owner took a hacksaw to the rear studs -
> presumably to use wire wheels.  I want to go back to the regular studs -
> what is the best way to remove the old ones from the hub?  Can they be
> driven out or must they be turned?  Remove from the front or the rear?
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:42:59 -0700
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	<07FB351C-DA37-4EC7-9F8B-58323E259698@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net List" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear hub studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Jul 15, 2013, at 4:36 PM, Bill Babbitt <wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> When I put the new studs in, I found that there was no way I could peen the
> end over.

I wonder if one of the super strength Loctite products would be sufficient.
Or does the peening add mechanical strength?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Rear_hub_studs?=
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Loctite red works great.  It holds the studs on just dandy on my racing Elise.
Plus, if you ever need to replace one, just heat with a propane torch and unscrew.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Darrell Walker" <darrellw360@mac.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net List" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [TR] Rear hub studs
Date: Mon, Jul 15, 2013 6:42 pm


On Jul 15, 2013, at 4:36 PM, Bill Babbitt <wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> When I put the new studs in, I found that there was no way I could peen the
> end over.

I wonder if one of the super strength Loctite products would be sufficient.
Or does the peening add mechanical strength?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 1:08:28 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumph List' <triumphs@autox.team.net>, davewillner <davewillner@pa.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Lucas generator rebuild or not?
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---- davewillner <davewillner@pa.net> wrote: 
> Am I ok to have it rebuilt again 

Most likely, yes.  But as others have said, it's probably best to check first that the problem isn't somewhere else, like the control box.  Personally, I'd also open up the generator and look for something easy, like worn brushes or broken brush springs, before I'd pay that much for a rebuild.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 19:58:53 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03BEF401F364@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 18:58:38 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
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I agree with Randall, not sure how helpful the ZDDP additive stuff, but
there's a lot of good oils out there that I don't have to spend $10 a quart
on.
But, instead of asking which oil is best, maybe we should be asking which
oils we shouldn't use.           
Randall stated that Mobile 1 leaked like a sieve. Any others that worked
like crap?

Johnnie

> 
> I have completed my first post rebuild 500 miles, quite happily, few
> bits and pieces but generally a successful shake down of my TR2. I want
> to change out the running-in oil. Is there a consensus on the best
> engine oil 10w/30, 20w/50 or a straight monograde, should I choose a
> classic car oil or will a modern type do. I should avoid synthetics,
> right?
> Regards
> John
> 1954 TR2 (long door)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 15 21:29:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 20:28:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] rear studs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had to do the same with my tr-3.  I found I could grind off the "peened'
area of each stud with an angle grinder.  It went faster than a dremel.  I
just ground them down as flat as possible.


Double nutting from the front was
more difficult.  It became almost impossible to unscrew in one attempt.  I
needed to unscrew maybe 3 initial turns.......then tighten back up again and
go back behind with the grinder and grind away the little "ridge" that
appeared.  Then proceed to unscrew with double nuts again another few turns
(untill it becomes to hard to turn) .............follow this with screwing
(tightening) in again...........grinding a small "ridge" from the
back.......and unscrewing again.  Repeat this untill the stud is free.


I'm
thinking the initial grind from the rear on the peened stud does not take all
the material away and unscrewing the stud pushes that material out.........
(and can be ground away).  If you attempt to grind only once and unscrew all
the way on first attempt, the material will bind in the threads and make it
very difficult to unscrew.


It takes LOTS of patience and strength.  I think
I ruined most of my wheel nuts using the double nut method but eventually did
get them off.  Good luck and if you need any more suggestions feel free to let
me know.

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 21:22:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6B1K0/27MciyCpTEOSD/sP+NA/TwAB0Srw
Subject: Re: [TR] rear studs
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> I think I ruined 
> most of my wheel nuts using the double nut method but 

Might be better to use ordinary 7/16 NF nuts ... At least they would be
cheaper to replace.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 21:36:24 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03BEF401F364@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<003801ce81c7$fd8b8fa0$f8a2aee0$@rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil?
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On 7/15/13 6:58 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> I agree with Randall, not sure how helpful the ZDDP additive stuff, but
> there's a lot of good oils out there that I don't have to spend $10 a quart
> on.
>
I've been running 20-50 Castrol for decades. Then they changed the 
formulations to make catalytic converters last longer.  3 years ago the 
flat tappet cam in my Ford 302 engine went flat requiring replacement of 
both the cam & lifters.  2 years ago the cam in my TR3's engine got 
replaced because of severe pitting.  I only use oil with ZDDP any more.  
Like others I have switched to Valvoline VR1, except I'm running the 
synthetic stuff.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 09:31:18 +0100
Thread-Topic: Engine oil
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Subject: [TR] Engine oil
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Thank you all for the wealth of information and the various points of view. If
this were based on consensus it would appear a 20w/50 mineral oil and not
necessarily one of the 'specially formulated for classic cars' is the way to
go. The addition ZDDP seems to be evenly divided, I have a query
here..........what is ZDDP?
Regards
John
1954 TR2

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 16 06:25:29 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 08:25:00 -0400
From: Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine oil?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a concern amongst the old VW bus crowd as well. The air-cooled
engines run hotter (~350F head temps) than liquid-cooled so we want 20w50,
and with solid flat lifters people are seeking the higher ZDDP. Just
yesterday I found Kendall titanium 20w50 non-synthetic at $44.62 CDN for a
case of 12 US quarts, which is a great price, around here (Ottawa Canada)
anyway. But I was happy just to find something suitable.
The same place had Brad Penn at ~$65 a case.
Jim

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>

On 7/15/13 6:58 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> I agree with Randall, not sure how helpful the ZDDP additive stuff, but
> there's a lot of good oils out there that I don't have to spend $10 a
quart
> on.
>
I've been running 20-50 Castrol for decades. Then they changed the
formulations to make catalytic converters last longer.  3 years ago the
flat tappet cam in my Ford 302 engine went flat requiring replacement of
both the cam & lifters.  2 years ago the cam in my TR3's engine got
replaced because of severe pitting.  I only use oil with ZDDP any more.
Like others I have switched to Valvoline VR1, except I'm running the
synthetic stuff.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'John Gillis'" <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 07:27:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6B/tg7gixE4aj+TJ2GUgcBfqpHsgALmXgg
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have a query 
> here..........what is ZDDP?

Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate (or something like that anyway).  You've heard
all the hype about oil additives that "bond with the metal" and form a
"barrier against wear" ... Well, ZDDP really does that.  I don't claim to
fully understand it, but in the presence of bare steel, the ZDDP breaks down
and leaves a microscopically thin layer of phosphate on the steel.  Once the
steel is coated, the process stops and the rest of the ZDDP doesn't do
anything until it finds some bare steel again (or gets flushed out when you
change oil).

However, if the normal oil film breaks down and allows metal-to-metal
contact, the phosphate layer acts as a solid lubricant to reduce wear.  In
addition, it is what wears away first and then gets replenished from the oil
(if there is still ZDDP available in the oil).  

The most common place for this to happen is the tip of the cam lobes, on
engines (like our Triumphs) that don't use a roller bearing between the lobe
& lifter.  Frequently known as "flat tappet", even though they aren't really
flat.  

Unfortunately, the zinc & phosphorus atoms are poisonous to the catalytic
converters used to reduce exhaust emissions on modern cars.  So the US EPA
got together with the oil makers and persuaded them to drastically cut back
on the ZDDP content in the oils, so the catalytic converters would last
longer.  IIRC the stated goal was to push the expected life of the emissions
control systems out to 200,000 miles instead of the current 100,000.

The new oils do still have some ZDDP, just much less (roughly half as much
as before).  At least in theory, as long as the ZDDP isn't all gone by the
time you change oil, then more won't help (and may have some bad effects,
too much is worse than too little).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 16 16:08:32 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 18:08:18 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6CcJxp56wme6BaT0GWA2d5FmdsFw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] 83MM LINERS
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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List:  I have three new / new old stock 83 mm liners, plus a bunch of old
liners.  Unfortunately, but not surprisingly, the old liners all have ring
gaps of 20 thou or more, so I'd really like to get my hands on another
new/NOS/unused liner.  I know TRF sells them, but first I'd like to ask if
anyone out there has an odd liner they'd sell me.  Please feel free to
contact me off-list if you can help out.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 16 17:24:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 19:24:07 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rear cross-member repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
A good friend has recently become a TR3 owner and while looking over the 
car a bit more carefully, he noticed that the rear cross-member that 
supports the rear spring mount has rusted pretty badly and is actually 
close to fracturing.
I recall seeing a repair technique somewhere that involved pressing or 
pounding a round tube into the cross-member, then welding to complete 
the repair and further strengthen the tube,
Anyone recall the source of the repair? Are we on the right track with 
this one? The I.D. of the rear member is approx. 1 1/16". Would a 1" 
tube work? Pretty hard to find stock tubing that would be a tighter fit.
Thanks for any advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <51E5D617.10104@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 18:41:10 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6Ce6KMmBNnLxZEQae0J+UbsyssqgAAZ1Kg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 rear cross-member repair
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I did something similar to that with my TR3B.  I went to a muffler shop
and got a short length from their scrap bin.  But I used it to replace the
outrigger, not re-enforce it.  I think I have also heard of people using
galvanized plumbing pipe from the local home improvement center to go inside
of an existing tube as you suggest.

Also, I fabricated the little pedestal at the end pretty easily as opposed
to paying $70ea from one of our fav supply houses.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 6:24 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 rear cross-member repair

Hello List:
A good friend has recently become a TR3 owner and while looking over the car
a bit more carefully, he noticed that the rear cross-member that supports
the rear spring mount has rusted pretty badly and is actually close to
fracturing.
I recall seeing a repair technique somewhere that involved pressing or
pounding a round tube into the cross-member, then welding to complete the
repair and further strengthen the tube, Anyone recall the source of the
repair? Are we on the right track with this one? The I.D. of the rear member
is approx. 1 1/16". Would a 1" 
tube work? Pretty hard to find stock tubing that would be a tighter fit.
Thanks for any advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 14:01:39 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 15:00:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Insurance for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Before I get it registered I need to get insurance.  
 
Any 'watch out for' items for:
Hagerty
Classic Underwriters
Heacock
 
any others I should consider?
Thanks
C
 

Carl
1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 15:10:54 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <19313154.1570244.1374091258624.JavaMail.root@vznit170064>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 17:05:55 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
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I have three cars with American Collectors.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 4:01 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Insurance for TR3

Before I get it registered I need to get insurance.  
 
Any 'watch out for' items for:
Hagerty
Classic Underwriters
Heacock
 
any others I should consider?
Thanks
C
 

Carl
1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 15:33:04 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 14:32:30 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6DKHVJSGXRPMezTue5USWn9eVJ2wADCNHg
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Any 'watch out for' items for:
> Hagerty
> Classic Underwriters
> Heacock
>  
> any others I should consider?

Depends on your planned usage.  All of the 'collector' insurers will have
limits that may or may not be a problem for you.  In my case, I do drive the
car to work and keep it outdoors, both of which disqualify me for
collector's insurance.  But Mercury has treated me fairly IMO, even when
that idiot plowed into my TR3A, making me the Oreo filling in a 4 car
pile-up.  But it wasn't a show-winner either.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <19313154.1570244.1374091258624.JavaMail.root@vznit170064>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 15:45:28 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl --

I have Hagerty and am totally satisfied with them.  My only claim was a
windscreen but they were prompt and totally fair.

I previously had Condon & Skelly -- never had a claim there though I know
some who have and they were very well taken care of.

One factor for me was my umbrella policy with my everyday carrier... most
insurers do not want to write an umbrella if some of the cars are insured
elsewhere unless they have a close relationship with the other carrier.

Allstate has such a relationship with Hagerty.

Condon & Skelly had (and may still have) such a relationship with Met Life.

If you do need an umbrella and your carrier will not provide it with your
classic car insurance your can still get it from a third party -- just will
be an insurer you never heard of.  Your agent (or any decent agent) will
have access to such lines.

Hagerty limits your use -- definitely no commuting to work -- but the limit
is in how you use it rather than a miles figure and the restrictions are
not so strict that you cannot enjoy the car.

You can get a quote from their website (that way lets you play around with
some options and different valuations) and it should be exactly what the
final premium amount will be once you are accepted.  If, after using the
website, whether you get the coverage direct from Hagerty or thru an agent,
the amount will be the same.

The Hagerty site has a pretty good app for figuring the value of a
collector car based on specifics and condition.  Valuations are pretty
important in their business so they keep good data on that.

For all of my cars they have only required some photos be emailed to them
-- no appraisal was required.  They may have also wanted to see copies of
some paperwork such as the dec page on my other cars' coverage.  You do
have to have at least one other car per driver in the household (to assure
them no one will be using the collector car as their daily driver).

They readily agreed to the value I placed on the cars.  I have raised that
value a couple of times (usually once a year) with just a phone call.

Geo

On Wed, Jul 17, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> Before I get it registered I need to get insurance.
>
> Any 'watch out for' items for:
> Hagerty
> Classic Underwriters
> Heacock

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
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 Plenty of choices out there. IMO, the only things that (should) matter:

1. Determine whose "limitations" (where, when and how much you can drive it
each year) best fit your intentions.

2. Get "agreed" rather than "stated" value, i.e., you and the insurance
company decide what the car is worth in case the worst happens, and review
that periodically as values (hopefully) rise.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 17, 2013 4:01 pm
Subject: [TR] Insurance for TR3


Before I get it registered I need to get insurance.

Any 'watch out for' items for:
Hagerty
Classic Underwriters
Heacock

any others I should consider?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 19:31:28 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 21:30:05 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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	<CANzE1bHgcSRTziBr3ssmkCrbEE54roR0d201J-7heYArLnpY5w@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
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On 7/17/2013 6:45 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> Hagerty limits your use -- definitely no commuting to work --

"Hagerty provides coverage for collector vehicles that are used on a 
limited basis  e.g. club functions, exhibitions, organized meets, tours 
and limited pleasure driving."

Some days it's a pleasure to drive to work.  They don't seem to have a 
problem with that.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 19:46:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 18:42:50 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Jul 17, 2013 at 6:30 PM, Jeff <fishplate@charter.net> wrote:

> On 7/17/2013 6:45 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>
>> Hagerty limits your use -- definitely no commuting to work --
>>
>
> "Hagerty provides coverage for collector vehicles that are used on a
> limited basis   e.g. club functions, exhibitions, organized meets, tours
> and limited pleasure driving."
>
> Some days it's a pleasure to drive to work.  They don't seem to have a
> problem with that.



Well their description of use is a bit vague...

"We believe cars are made to be driven. So our policy allows limited
pleasure use with no fixed mileage limits. Whether it's a drive on a
gorgeous summer day, a trip to the ice cream shop, attending club events or
going to shows, you're covered."

...but if you have an accident at 7:30 am on a Tuesday in downtown
Metropolis, I think they'll be asking some pointed questions about where
you were going.


Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 19:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] conclusion to vibration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What a wonderful experience!  I was pretty sure my vibration came from the
drive shaft so I took it to a machine shop that also specialized in drive
shaft work.  I didn't even look at it for any problems and immediately upon
laying it on the counter the mechanic saw the problem.  One spring clip was
missing and that cap had worked its way out and was almost flung off the
universal joint.  He noticed another spring clip that wasn't completely seated
and fixed that as well as seated the cap and installed another spring clip.
Opened my billfold and he said no charge.  Not worth fiddling with.

Something
that doesn't happen too often in this world.  Also embarrassed that I didn't
inspect better when I installed the joints in the first place.

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 20:25:22 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <19313154.1570244.1374091258624.JavaMail.root@vznit170064><CANzE1bHgcSRTziBr3ssmkCrbEE54roR0d201J-7heYArLnpY5w@mail.gmail.com><51E7451D.6020300@charter.net>
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Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 21:25:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
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Honestly, mr agent, I had just tuned the carbs and was going for a test 
drive!

in your suit?




...but if you have an accident at 7:30 am on a Tuesday in downtown
Metropolis, I think they'll be asking some pointed questions about where
you were going.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 17 20:43:21 2013
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The guys at heathcock didn't ask anything like that..she just asked what happened (weekday) and processed it.
I'm sure if you wad it up at a track they might have some concerns, or if you have ...er...history.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Insurance for TR3
Date: Wed, Jul 17, 2013 9:25 pm


Honestly, mr agent, I had just tuned the carbs and was going for a test drive!

in your suit?




....but if you have an accident at 7:30 am on a Tuesday in downtown
Metropolis, I think they'll be asking some pointed questions about where
you were going.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3
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I very recently signed with Hagerty for my TR3A street licensed vintage race car. I believe the mileage can be adjusted for as much as you like. A tour could be across country and back or all around, up and down, zigging and zagging the country and back. Who could deny doing that? They just know that it's not likely to happen very often. It's just not supposed to be the main daily use vehicle. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 7:25:02 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance for TR3 

Honestly, mr agent, I had just tuned the carbs and was going for a test 
drive! 

in your suit? 




...but if you have an accident at 7:30 am on a Tuesday in downtown 
Metropolis, I think they'll be asking some pointed questions about where 
you were going. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 07:34:14 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 08:29:59 -0500
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.22
	with any abuse report
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Subject: Re: [TR] conclusion to vibration
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Great report! And another example of a triumph (!) of the marketplace. I'm
guessing that I know where you'll go the next time you need machine-shop work?
And you'll probably recommend this shop to your friends. And if you would
kindly tell where you are and the name of the shop?

Cheers!
 Lee

> What a wonderful experience!  I was pretty sure my vibration came from the
> drive shaft so I took it to a machine shop that also specialized in drive
> shaft work.  I didn't even look at it for any problems and immediately upon
> laying it on the counter the mechanic saw the problem.  One spring clip was
> missing and that cap had worked its way out and was almost flung off the
> universal joint.  He noticed another spring clip that wasn't completely seated
> and fixed that as well as seated the cap and installed another spring clip.
> Opened my billfold and he said no charge.  Not worth fiddling with.
>
> Something
> that doesn't happen too often in this world.  Also embarrassed that I didn't
> inspect better when I installed the joints in the first place.
>
> gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 11:44:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 13:43:44 -0400
From: John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>
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	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?refer=news

A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only $83,000 
($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one? OK, I get it 
you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out your collection. 
B. If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?

There was a TV movie recently about WW2 spies circa 1942 that had a 
Triumph Roadster in several of the shots. Looked period but wasn't.

John T. Nichols
1958 TR3A TS32093LO
1986 TVR 280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 12:10:05 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 13:09:15 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Triumph_Roadster?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, just think of why you might want such a sports car.
It doesn't handle, doesn't accelerate, doesn't stop.
Other then that, its a road burner.
I suspect the above is why my buddy is putting a Pinto engine, trans, rearend and discs in his!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "John T Nichols" <jtnichols@comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Date: Thu, Jul 18, 2013 12:43 pm


http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?refer=news

A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only $83,000 ($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one? OK, I get it you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out your collection. B. If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?

There was a TV movie recently about WW2 spies circa 1942 that had a Triumph Roadster in several of the shots. Looked period but wasn't.

John T. Nichols
1958 TR3A TS32093LO
1986 TVR 280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 12:41:50 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 11:38:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why would anyone want one?
 
1) super sexy lines
2) suicide doors
3) all
aluminum body over ash
4) mother in law rear seat
5) classic feeling when
driven
6) rarity
 
 
 
If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
 
if this
lottery ticket in my pocket is good..ill negotiate or seek out same or better.
but on my current poor salary, all I can do is lust
 
 
Frank
 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject:
[TR] Triumph Roadster
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?ref
er=news

A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only $83,000
($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one? OK, I get it
you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out your collection. 
B. If
you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?

There was a TV movie recently
about WW2 spies circa 1942 that had a 
Triumph Roadster in several of the
shots. Looked period but wasn't.

John T. Nichols
1958 TR3A TS32093LO
1986 TVR
280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 12:57:26 2013
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	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Triumph_Roadster?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Drive one first, Frank.   There are other rides out there that will match your specs, and are more useable.
BTW, I noticed how little my friend's car's front wheels turn, lock to lock.  There is a physical stop, so nothing is broken.
It just seems odd for the car to have such an immense turning radius.  It's huge compared to my Riley,  esp. considering how maneuverable Triumphs in general seem to be.  
I wonder if there was a tire clearance problem and this was the fix?


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Triumph Roadster
Date: Thu, Jul 18, 2013 1:38 pm


Why would anyone want one?
 
1) super sexy lines
2) suicide doors
3) all
aluminum body over ash
4) mother in law rear seat
5) classic feeling when
driven
6) rarity
 
 
 
If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
 
if this
lottery ticket in my pocket is good..ill negotiate or seek out same or better.
but on my current poor salary, all I can do is lust
 
 
Frank
 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject:
[TR] Triumph Roadster
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?ref
er=news

A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only $83,000
($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one? OK, I get it
you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out your collection. 
B. If
you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?

There was a TV movie recently
about WW2 spies circa 1942 that had a 
Triumph Roadster in several of the
shots. Looked period but wasn't.

John T. Nichols
1958 TR3A TS32093LO
1986 TVR
280i

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 19:48:55 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net> wrote: 
> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?refer=news
> 
> A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only $83,000 
> ($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one? OK, I get it 
> you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out your collection. 
> B. If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?

Because $83,000 isn't a lot of money to you; and the best part about having money is being able to spend it as you please.  Especially if you didn't have to work for it in the first place.

If the description is accurate, it might even be worth that much.  True collectors place a premium on "original" as opposed to "restored".  And as with any "collector" object, it is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 13:22:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

do you mean vague and    uncertain steering?
yes.
and the need to double de
clutch when changing gear...oh yes..ill take all of that and more besides.
 
not really suicide...I think im turning American with that colonialism. laugh.
as I recall dad's 1932 ford Y type had doors of same opening type. and we 4
kids, mom and grandma never did badly by them.
 
 
 
 
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 11:54 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Triumph Roadster
  


Ah, yes, automobile as sculpture, an Art Deco
artistic statement a la the 1937/38 Talbot Lago teardrop coupe but for less
money, far less money. By "classic feeling when driven" do you mean vague and
uncertain steering? I have to confess that the rumble seat is rather
endearing. As to "suicide doors" I've always found that term a bit extreme. My
dad's 1948 Studebaker sedan had that type of rear door and my brother (as did
his 1953 MG TD) and I are still here.

JTN


Frank Fisher wrote:
 
Why would
anyone want one? 
>  
>1) super sexy lines 
>2) suicide doors 
>3) all
aluminum body over ash 
>4) mother in law rear seat 
>5) classic feeling when
driven 
>6) rarity 
>  
>  
>  
>If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
>  
>if this lottery ticket in my pocket is good..ill negotiate or seek out
same or better. 
>but on my current poor salary, all I can do is lust 
>  
> 
>Frank 
>  
>
> 
>From: John T Nichols mailto:jtnichols@comcast.net
>To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:43 AM
>Subject:
[TR] Triumph Roadster
>  
>
>http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?re
fer=news
>
>A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only
$83,000 
>($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one?
OK, I get it 
>you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out
your collection. 
>B. If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
>
>There
was a TV movie recently about WW2 spies circa 1942
              that had a
>Triumph Roadster in several of the shots. Looked period
              but
wasn't.
>
>John T. Nichols
>1958 TR3A TS32093LO
>1986 TVR 280i
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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	<51E839FC.7080107@comcast.net>
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 16:25:09 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If one of you is looking to buy a 2000 Roadster contact me off list as we
have one for sale.

Brad



On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 4:22 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

> do you mean vague and    uncertain steering?
> yes.
> and the need to double de
> clutch when changing gear...oh yes..ill take all of that and more besides.
>
> not really suicide...I think im turning American with that colonialism.
> laugh.
> as I recall dad's 1932 ford Y type had doors of same opening type. and we 4
> kids, mom and grandma never did badly by them.
>
>
>
>
> To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; "triumphs@autox.team.net"
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 11:54 AM
> Subject: Re:
> [TR] Triumph Roadster
>
>
>
> Ah, yes, automobile as sculpture, an Art Deco
> artistic statement a la the 1937/38 Talbot Lago teardrop coupe but for less
> money, far less money. By "classic feeling when driven" do you mean vague
> and
> uncertain steering? I have to confess that the rumble seat is rather
> endearing. As to "suicide doors" I've always found that term a bit
> extreme. My
> dad's 1948 Studebaker sedan had that type of rear door and my brother (as
> did
> his 1953 MG TD) and I are still here.
>
> JTN
>
>
> Frank Fisher wrote:
>
> Why would
> anyone want one?
> >
> >1) super sexy lines
> >2) suicide doors
> >3) all
> aluminum body over ash
> >4) mother in law rear seat
> >5) classic feeling when
> driven
> >6) rarity
> >
> >
> >
> >If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
> >
> >if this lottery ticket in my pocket is good..ill negotiate or seek out
> same or better.
> >but on my current poor salary, all I can do is lust
> >
> >
> >Frank
> >
> >
> >
> >From: John T Nichols mailto:jtnichols@comcast.net
> >To:
> triumphs@autox.team.net
> >Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2013 10:43 AM
> >Subject:
> [TR] Triumph Roadster
> >
> >
> >
> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/2000/1585804.html?re
> fer=news
> >
> >A 1949 Triumph Roadster, supposedly all original, for only
> $83,000
> >($8459.81 in 1949 dollars.)! A. Why would anyone want one?
> OK, I get it
> >you're a hardcore Triumph guy and you need to fill out
> your collection.
> >B. If you wanted one, why would you pay $83,000?
> >
> >There
> was a TV movie recently about WW2 spies circa 1942
>               that had a
> >Triumph Roadster in several of the shots. Looked period
>               but
> wasn't.
> >
> >John T. Nichols
> >1958 TR3A TS32093LO
> >1986 TVR 280i
> >
> >**
> triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com
>
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>
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 20:33:03 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Because $83,000 isn't a lot of money to you
B 
> you cant be talking to me Randall !!!!

Sorry, meant "you" in the abstract, not anyone in particular.  I'll never be a
member of that august group either, but I can see what it would be like.

Besides which, if I did have that kind of money to indulge my hobbies, I'd be
looking at one of these instead:
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C366637

Probably more than $83k, by the time it got shipped to my place.

Randall
B 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 14:19:29 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 12:48 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> If the description is accurate, it might even be worth that much.  True
> collectors place a premium on "original" as opposed to "restored".  And as
> with any "collector" object, it is worth whatever someone is willing to pay
> for it.



And that's a big 'if'.  To some sellers 'all original' means that is has
been correctly restored.  That car looks very fine for an original 65
year-old car -- if it really is all original that is amazing.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 14:21:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

would you give a poor peasant like me a ride?
 
:-)
 
 
________________________________
 From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 18,
2013 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
  

---- Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Because $83,000 isn't a lot of money to you
B
> you cant be talking to me Randall !!!!

Sorry, meant "you" in the abstract,
not anyone in particular.  I'll never be a
member of that august group either,
but I can see what it would be like.

Besides which, if I did have that kind
of money to indulge my hobbies, I'd be
looking at one of these instead:
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C366637

Probably more than $83k, by the
time it got shipped to my place.

Randall
B 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 18 21:35:35 2013
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2013 23:35:14 -0400
From: John T Nichols <jtnichols@comcast.net>
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To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The Triumph Gloria and the Alvis Speed 20 were two of the nicest looking 
sports cars of the classic 1930s period. But there were too few of them 
made.

JTN
Randall wrote:
> ---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>> Because $83,000 isn't a lot of money to you
> B
>> you cant be talking to me Randall !!!!
> Sorry, meant "you" in the abstract, not anyone in particular.  I'll never be a
> member of that august group either, but I can see what it would be like.
>
> Besides which, if I did have that kind of money to indulge my hobbies, I'd be
> looking at one of these instead:
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C366637
>
> Probably more than $83k, by the time it got shipped to my place.
>
> Randall
> B
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 19 07:11:09 2013
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From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 08:05:37 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Roadster
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Excellent taste, Randall, and I think that it is priced right.

As for the Triumph Roadster, my friend Nobby had one in 1971 or thereabouts
and I can tell you it was a fun car and a "chick magnet", as modern parlance
would have it.  I have always wanted one, for the very reasons that Frank
Fisher stated in an earlier e-mail.  Nobby owned a TR3A before the Roadster
and I did a lot of mechanical work on the 3A, which was my introduction to
the joys of TRs and the start of a love affair with them that has never
ended.

On the other hand, that Gloria...

Mike


> 
> Besides which, if I did have that kind of money to indulge my hobbies,
> I'd be looking at one of these instead:
> http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C366637
> 
> Probably more than $83k, by the time it got shipped to my place.
> 
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 22:02:48 +0100
Thread-Topic: TR2 for sale!
Thread-Index: AQHOhMNT7FOL/4bTTEK8OJhCwZxNSQ==
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Subject: [TR] TR2 for sale!
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It is with a heavy heart I inform the list I am now in a situation where I am
fairly sure I need to sell my beloved and just completed 1954 long door TR2.
16 years of restoration, blood sweat, tears, moments of joy, frustration, and
many thousands of euros. I know this is of little practical use to most
listers as I am all the way over here in Ireland, mind you we are the next
parish after New York (heading east)! I will not burden you with sad stories
and details, suffice it to say even before completion the prospect was
looming.
With a bit of luck I will be in a position to 'trade down' Triumph of course,
so I do hope to be around to pester you all in the future.
Regards
John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03CBB5521E1E@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 16:43:48 -0500
To: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>, "<triumphs@autox.team.net>"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 for sale!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
So sorry to read this email.  I presume you are putting together some pictures
and comments about the car.

I am sure we will all do what we can to help you find a good new owner.

All the best,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 19, 2013, at 4:02 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie> wrote:

> It is with a heavy heart I inform the list I am now in a situation where I
am
> fairly sure I need to sell my beloved and just completed 1954 long door
TR2.
> 16 years of restoration, blood sweat, tears, moments of joy, frustration,
and
> many thousands of euros. I know this is of little practical use to most
> listers as I am all the way over here in Ireland, mind you we are the next
> parish after New York (heading east)! I will not burden you with sad
stories
> and details, suffice it to say even before completion the prospect was
> looming.
> With a bit of luck I will be in a position to 'trade down' Triumph of
course,
> so I do hope to be around to pester you all in the future.
> Regards
> John
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 20 16:03:34 2013
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	Jul 2013 22:03:12 +0000
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 15:03:06 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6FlOm5Nm/N1I5pStuBqxeSVa6TOA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Crap ,,,
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Opened the radiator cap and found creamy brown oily sludge. I know what that
means. 

 

The oil in the sump and valves looks clear. Pulled the head and found this.
You're looking at the top of a TR4A engine block behind cylinder #4. Crap.

 

http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/PDONNEL1/library/?sort=3
<http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/PDONNEL1/library/?sort=3&page=1> &page=1 

 

Looks like it was welded up before but I don't remember having it done, and
I've owned the car since 1970. Do you think this is salvageable?

 

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 20 17:11:45 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 16:09:26 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130620 Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <000001ce8594$ea4e0a00$beea1e00$@rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Crap ,,,
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like it was welded up before but I don't remember having it done, 
and I've owned the car since 1970. Do you think this is salvageable?

If it were me I would go hunting for another block.  Going through a 
threaded bolt hole I wouldn't risk it.

I guess crap is the right sentiment

Sorry

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 20 17:15:48 2013
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Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 18:15:43 -0500
To: "John & Pat Donnelly"
  <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>,<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <000001ce8594$ea4e0a00$beea1e00$@rr.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Crap ,,,
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For oil to go to the water and not the water to the oil, it would 
have to be the oil line to the rocker shaft (hole next to stud hole) 
that's leaking into the water gallery.  The crack doesn't look to 
extend to that hole, so it's possible that the clamping force on that 
section of the head gasket wasn't quite enough to keep those 
separated.  There's a chance that trying Randall's glue / solder thin 
copper wire onto the head gasket might work if you put it around the 
oil feed hole.  I'd give it 50% or so of working if you can get full 
torque on that stud, but it only costs you a head gasket and some man 
hours to try - versus pulling the engine and replacing the block.  If 
it were me, I'd give it a shot.

If I had the engine out of the car and had access to a better block 
I'd go that route instead.

Cheers, Tony D

At 05:03 PM 7/20/2013, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
>Opened the radiator cap and found creamy brown oily sludge. I know what that
>means.
>
>
>
>The oil in the sump and valves looks clear. Pulled the head and found this.
>You're looking at the top of a TR4A engine block behind cylinder #4. Crap.
>
>
>
>http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/PDONNEL1/library/?sort=3
><http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/PDONNEL1/library/?sort=3&page=1> &page=1
>
>
>
>Looks like it was welded up before but I don't remember having it done, and
>I've owned the car since 1970. Do you think this is salvageable?
>
>
>
>Johnnie
>
>'67 TR4A
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 06:11:59 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 08:11:09 -0400
	CU+DHLeT0GXdDQUxCoD91ZpWjtMZbKV1MAlDiu7DXkoI273mRG
	cl8FXUHmf9qlVmsZCoQYRNlyLeJOqYpAlW4YaKGy3hj402zsGE
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Subject: [TR] Triumph historical archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For folks on Facebook, there's a whole section on Triumph historical ads,
articles, pictures etc... some pretty cool stuff.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Triumph-Motorcar-historical-archive/3180334249
73420

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 08:21:43 2013
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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 07:21:18 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph historical archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A short link:  http://tinyurl.com/ls7v9qm

I always enjoy this stuff.

Geo


On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 5:11 AM, Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> For folks on Facebook, there's a whole section on Triumph historical ads,
> articles, pictures etc... some pretty cool stuff.
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/pages/Triumph-Motorcar-historical-archive/3180334249
> 73420
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 21 08:36:17 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <FEFA7BEB1E904346A7D13BE2465E6569@BobDell>
	<CANzE1bHqDinn+CAZ3Jawq3RFBm1=GzE5uRgmBSt+SREvu8ON=A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 10:35:48 -0400
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph historical archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Geo........ it wrapped my link on to another line. I should have done
the TinyURL.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 10:21 AM
To: Bob
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph historical archives

A short link:  http://tinyurl.com/ls7v9qm

I always enjoy this stuff.

Geo



On Sun, Jul 21, 2013 at 5:11 AM, Bob <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

  For folks on Facebook, there's a whole section on Triumph historical ads,
  articles, pictures etc... some pretty cool stuff.

  https://www.facebook.com/pages/Triumph-Motorcar-historical-archive/31803342
49
  73420

  ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:27:43 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6GUMEfFyY7g0O+Qxq5bZgAHRvlHg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Head Gasket install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Which way does the common sandwich style head gasket get installed, with the
folds to the cylinder, or the head? Does it matter?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:18:40 -0500
To: "John & Pat Donnelly"
  <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>,<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <000001ce8650$c1bfa0f0$453ee2d0$@rr.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Gasket install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the head has been milled any, folds toward the cylinder 
liner.  Less apt to burn through / leak.  If unaltered (stock), I 
don't think it matters much.

Tony Drews

At 03:27 PM 7/21/2013, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
>Which way does the common sandwich style head gasket get installed, with the
>folds to the cylinder, or the head? Does it matter?
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 18:29:27 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Gasket install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too. I figure the extra copper allows for mismatch in cylinder sleeve
heights.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 22 19:54:41 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 21:53:56 -0400
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I took the 57 TR3 out of storage this season, I found a spring on the
floor in the drivers compartment. I have no idea where it came from - any
ideas?

It can be seen at:
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=1881

There are about 5 coils, the length is about 1.875 in. in length and just
under 1 in. in diameter.

Question #2, the latch on the bonnet broke off. Any thoughts on removal from
the bracket and suggestions for reattachment.

As always, thanks in advance for your help.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 03:26:55 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 05:28:22 -0400
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <C2FB7D43-305B-4B57-8356-A1CB4DF27332@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like the spring that goes around the plunger next to the bonnet 
latch on my TR3.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 7/22/2013 9:53 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:
> When I took the 57 TR3 out of storage this season, I found a spring on the
> floor in the drivers compartment. I have no idea where it came from - any
> ideas?
>
> It can be seen at:
> http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=1881
>
> There are about 5 coils, the length is about 1.875 in. in length and just
> under 1 in. in diameter.
>
> Question #2, the latch on the bonnet broke off. Any thoughts on removal from
> the bracket and suggestions for reattachment.
>
> As always, thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 07:28:55 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Keith Stewart" <keithstewart@execulink.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is your headlight dimmer switch still intact?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> When I took the 57 TR3 out of storage this season, I found a spring on the
> floor in the drivers compartment. I have no idea where it came from - any
> ideas?

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 06:43:27 2013
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To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Tony, Greg, Tom and Dave. I only moved the car a short distance in the
storage facility. I will take a look at that switch the next time I go to the
storage building. You guys are the BEST.


On 2013-07-23, at 8:23 AM, "davewillner" <davewillner@pa.net> wrote:

> I agree with Greg, it looks like the spring from your dip switch that may
have come apart. Sometimes the rivet or weld comes apart and the "casing" pops
off along with the spring. Happened to me last year...
>

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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From: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 10:13:27 -0400
thread-index: Ac6HrOVopbyWfYqZRFqpnEgs5k0Mog==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR4 Maybe an Armstrong Shock problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The right rear of my TR4 is sagging to the right.

 

If I push on the back of the car, only the left side seems to have a nice
rebound bounce. The leaf springs and Armstrong shock play nicely together.
However,  the right hand side seems completely lifeless, and seems to be
sitting noticeably lower, firmly metal on metal.

 

Here is my trouble shooting efforts so far.  I jacked up the car, and held
the right rear of the car  up by the frame. Took the wheel off, and could
see all parts are present. During this time the axle and suspension hung
freely down.

 

I put the wheel back on, and lowered the car.

 

For about ten minutes my car was fine, and the rear bumper was level, and
the right hand side had a nice rebound bounce.

 

My euphoria dissipated as the car quickly returned to its sagging state.

 

What do you think is wrong?  Is it a bad Armstrong shock and can this be
fixed?

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4 HVDA

Powder Blue

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 08:37:29 2013
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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>, Triumph List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 09:35:42 -0500
References: <002701ce87ae$ce8efe20$6bacfa60$@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[E93244F0:01CE87B1]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Maybe an Armstrong Shock problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Will-

Others I'm sure will chime in, but I don't think it is a problem with the
shock.  Sounds more like you may have a broken leaf spring potentially, or
perhaps it is simply binding and needs some lubrication.  The shock itself
does not hold the car level in the back, it just dampens bounces - the leaf
spring does the real work.

Randy

 > If I push on the back of the car, only the left side seems to have a nice
> rebound bounce. The leaf springs and Armstrong shock play nicely together.
> However,  the right hand side seems completely lifeless, and seems to be
> sitting noticeably lower, firmly metal on metal.
>
>
>
> Here is my trouble shooting efforts so far.  I jacked up the car, and held
> the right rear of the car  up by the frame. Took the wheel off, and could
> see all parts are present. During this time the axle and suspension hung
> freely down.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 08:56:51 2013
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From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001b01ce7fe4$5be490a0$13adb1e0$@citlink.net>
	<05.44.05415.5E881E15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 10:56:18 -0400
thread-index: AQGaQUMcREGIh9Z6V0mfiAQSfFux7Jna5Z4A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Randall and Jonmac.

What would be the next hotter plug to either the Champion L87YC or NGK
BP6HS?   Thought I would give that a try and see how comfortable I am
driving the car that way.  Took it out over the weekend and ran it up pretty
good then checked the plugs.  3 was a bit damp and 4, if anything, was a bit
on the lean side.

Thanks
Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 1:06 PM
To: 'Ed Oot'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?

Well, for sure you have something wrong on #3.  With those results, it's
hard to say for certain just what; but the problem should become apparent
when you get the head off.  If there isn't anything obviously wrong with the
head (like oil caked on the back on the intake valve for #3, showing that
the oil was going past the valve stem) or obviously wrong with the #3
cylinder wall; then pull the #3 piston out and see what you find.

My guess is either broken ring, or scored cylinder wall.

However, 120 psi of compression should still let the engine run reasonably
well.  My guess is that the poor performance is mostly from the fouled plug.
So if you want to wait until after the driving season, just change the plug
(maybe to one step hotter to help avoid fouling again) and go on.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 13:07:57 -0400
Content-Language: en
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References: <76509bb01257e.51eeb666@cgocable.ca>
	<73c0cb4d1796c.51eeb757@cgocable.ca>
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Subject: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My O/D engaged once on the weekend but refused to do so for the rest of the
drive.  It's normally fairly snappy but there's always been the odd time when
there's a couple of seconds delay before it engages, but baring Lucas issues
it always does.





When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.   Out of
desperation I changed the oil (10w30) but no joy.





Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?


Art
TS64somethingLO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:00:52 -0400
Content-Language: en
Priority: normal
References: <76509bb01257e.51eeb666@cgocable.ca>
	<73c0cb4d1796c.51eeb757@cgocable.ca>
	<74c0be2f1319d.51eeb799@cgocable.ca>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John I'll have a look at that site. 
 
The rear seal leaks a bit so it's not uncommon for me to be down a bit but I'd just topped it up the day before and checked the level before changing the oil and it was still full.  Oddly enough the O/D always engaged even when oil level was low.  I've run hypoid gear oil in the past but I've read other posts (and the original manual) that quote 30 engine oil.   I couldn't tell the difference in operation and I could be convinced either way at this point.
 
Cleaned the filter and the magnetic drain plug.  There were some metal filings in both, but since they came from the gears they don't qualify as "foreign matter" do they? ;) 
 
On 07/23/13, John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Art
>  
> The Buckeye Triumphs website has lots of helpful pointers on reluctant overdrives</x>. What you describe doesn't sound serious and in my experience might be one of four things:
>  
> 1. Low gearbox oil level / wrong oil grade. Should be 80W/90
> 2. Foreign matter in the O/D unit itself. Have you undone the large brass plug underneath it, pulled out the gauze screen and cleaned it?
> 3. A drop in overdrive operating pressure
> 4. The solenoid is now beginning to get a bit 'tired' and won't kick in and out as it used to.
>  
> I'd have a good look at points 1 - 3
> 
>  
> Jonmac
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > From: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
> > Sent: Tuesday, 23 July 2013, 18:07
> > Subject: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
> > 
> > 
> > My O/D engaged once on the weekend but refused to do so for the rest of the
> > drive.  It's normally fairly snappy but there's always been the odd time when
> > there's a couple of seconds delay before it engages, but baring Lucas issues
> > it always does.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
> > takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
> > O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
> > capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.  Out of
> > desperation I changed the oil (10w30) but no joy.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
> > motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?
> > 
> > 
> > Art
> > TS64somethingLO
> > 
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
To: Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:02:29 -0400
Content-Language: en
Priority: normal
References: <76509bb01257e.51eeb666@cgocable.ca>
	<73c0cb4d1796c.51eeb757@cgocable.ca>
	<74c0be2f1319d.51eeb799@cgocable.ca>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tom, 
 
Why would that be the issue?  The relay is functioning as if it weren't the selonoid woudln't be engaging at all.
 
On 07/23/13, Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change OD Relay.
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > From: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 1:07 PM
> > Subject: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
> > 
> > 
> > My O/D engaged once on the weekend but refused to do so for the rest of the
> > drive.  It's normally fairly snappy but there's always been the odd time when
> > there's a couple of seconds delay before it engages, but baring Lucas issues
> > it always does.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
> > takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
> > O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
> > capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.  Out of
> > desperation I changed the oil (10w30) but no joy.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
> > motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?
> > 
> > 
> > Art
> > TS64somethingLO
> > 
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net() **
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html()
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive()
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums()
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wgas2-air@yahoo.com()

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 12:03:57 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 From an earlier response to a similar issue:

I had the same symptoms with my overdrive and suspected the solenoid
first also.  When I ran a lead from the brown to the yellow/purple
wire on the OD relay the solenoid clicked and pulled the actuator
lever up just as it should. The relay (which amazingly enough
conformed to my #1 rule of "Bud, it's the last thing you fixed that
failed") was the problem. I put a new one in less than two years ago.

I believe Steve Yost and Randall Young pointed out that the relay
could be bad (not putting out enough amperes because of burn contacts)
even though it put out the correct voltage which basically wouldn't
provide enough ummffff to the solenoid to pull it up but does provide
enough to hold it if got pulled up. A new OD relay fixed the problem.

So maybe the contacts in your relay are slowing losing it.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Jul 23, 2013, at 11:07 AM, Art McEwen wrote:

> My O/D engaged once on the weekend but refused to do so for the rest
> of the
> drive.  It's normally fairly snappy but there's always been the odd
> time when
> there's a couple of seconds delay before it engages, but baring
> Lucas issues
> it always does.
>
>
>
>
>
> When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging
> but it
> takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to
> get the
> O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the
> solenoid is
> capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.   Out
> of
> desperation I changed the oil (10w30) but no joy.
>
>
>
>
>
> Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the
> range of
> motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?
>
>
> Art
> TS64somethingLO
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Art McEwen" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:09:33 -0400
Content-Language: en
Priority: normal
References: <76509bb01257e.51eeb666@cgocable.ca>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>"Bud, it's the last thing you fixed that failed" 
 
Actually that's why I suspected the toping up of the oil level since I did that just the day before, I got lazy and only jacked up the left hand side of the car so I probably over filled it by 1/2".     The Relay is the 2nd oldest thing as I replaced it 4-5 years ago....
 
Anybody know the amperage the relay should put out? 
 
Art 
 
On 07/23/13, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From an earlier response to a similar issue:
> 
> 
> I had the same symptoms with my overdrive and suspected the solenoid first also.  When I ran a lead from the brown to the yellow/purple wire on the OD relay the solenoid clicked and pulled the actuator lever up just as it should. The relay (which amazingly enough conformed to my #1 rule of was the problem. I put a new one in less than two years ago. 
> 
> 
> I believe Steve Yost and Randall Young pointed out that the relay could be bad (not putting out enough amperes because of burn contacts) even though it put out the correct voltage which basically wouldn't provide enough ummffff to the solenoid to pull it up but does provide enough to hold it if got pulled up. A new OD relay fixed the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So maybe the contacts in your relay are slowing losing it.
> 
> 
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 23, 2013, at 11:07 AM, Art McEwen wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > 
> > My O/D engaged once on the weekend but refused to do so for the rest of the
> > drive.  It's normally fairly snappy but there's always been the odd time when
> > there's a couple of seconds delay before it engages, but baring Lucas issues
> > it always does.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
> > takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
> > O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
> > capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.   Out of
> > desperation I changed the oil (10w30) but no joy.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
> > motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?
> > 
> > 
> > Art
> > TS64somethingLO
> > 
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:20:01 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Lazy O/D
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> When I crawled under afterwards I confirmed the solenoid is engaging but it
> takes a tiny bit of manual pressure on the off-side external arm to get the
> O/D to actually kick in, that push seems to be more than the solenoid is
> capable of even though it seems to draw the arm up far enough.

So in other words, it doesn't engage if you push on the arm on the solenoid
side?

Assuming that is the case, have you checked that the off-side arm has it's
hole lined up with the hole in the case, when the solenoid is engaged?  I have
had trouble on several occasions with the pinch joint that holds the solenoid
arm to the operating shaft slipping over time.  It has to be tightened really
tight to withstand the pounding from the solenoid, which is hard to do with
the original pinch bolt and nut.

Last time it happened to me, I machined a nut that would lock into the arm (so
no wrench needed) and used a fine thread SHCS (aka Allen head bolt) for the
pinch bolt so I could really reef down on it.  (Knowing that replacement arms
are cheap :) )  I'm not saying you should do that necessarily, just
emphasizing the problem as I see it.
(This is a mockup using some damaged OD parts from the bin, not my actual OD.
The taper on the nut is to keep it from hitting the solenoid mount.)
http://goo.gl/OcXHco

If the hole does line up, then you may have enough wear inside the unit that
the hole is no longer accurate.  See Nelson's article on the Buckeye Triumphs
site for the "ball lift" method of adjustment.

> Im hesitant to adjust the screw on the solenoid plunger since the range of
> motion seems correct, is there anything else somebody can suggest?

As long as the plunger is picking up, that adjustment is close enough.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:49:16 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Will Daehler" <will.daehler@gmail.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Maybe an Armstrong Shock problem
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The shock absorbers do not support the car, that is the function of the
springs.

Greg G.
Osseo,MN


> The right rear of my TR4 is sagging to the right.
>
>
>
> If I push on the back of the car, only the left side seems to have a nice
> rebound bounce. The leaf springs and Armstrong shock play nicely together.
> However,  the right hand side seems completely lifeless, and seems to be
> sitting noticeably lower, firmly metal on metal.
>
>
>
> Here is my trouble shooting efforts so far.  I jacked up the car, and held
> the right rear of the car  up by the frame. Took the wheel off, and could
> see all parts are present. During this time the axle and suspension hung
> freely down.
>
>
>
> I put the wheel back on, and lowered the car.
>
>
>
> For about ten minutes my car was fine, and the rear bumper was level, and
> the right hand side had a nice rebound bounce.
>
>
>
> My euphoria dissipated as the car quickly returned to its sagging state.
>
>
>
> What do you think is wrong?  Is it a bad Armstrong shock and can this be
> fixed?
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4 HVDA
>
> Powder Blue
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 12:59:34 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:58:44 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Maybe an Armstrong Shock problem
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---- Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Hi Will-
> 
> Others I'm sure will chime in, but I don't think it is a problem with the
> shock.  

I agree that it's unlikely to be the shock.  An easy test would be to disconnect the shock arm, then bounce it around again.

BTW, on a TR4, the rear axle and suspension should NOT "hang freely down".  Without the weight of the car on the spring, the axle should rest on the frame.

Could it be a TR4A?

--- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 14:32:50 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 16:32:38 -0400
References: <mailman.19.1374602405.26324.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
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On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 at 5:28 AM, George Richardson wrote:

>
> Looks like the spring that goes around the plunger next to the bonnet
> latch on my TR3.
>
Don't think so. That one is in place and if I remember correctly has much
thicker coils and way more resistance. Thanks.


Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Allan Reich <areich@telus.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:12:27 -0700
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings
Strange smoke started coming out of my TR6 after long climb up steep hill at
65 mph in 4th gear overdrive. Also start smelling the oily smoke.
Can run all day at high speed with no issues. This just started as I was on a
similar ride last month with no issues.
Ran home 100 miles no problems. Tested again yesterday on smaller but just as
steep and started smelling it again and saw faint smoke.
Compression between 145 to 160. Plugs 1,2,3 clean and 4,5,6 sooty. Car has cam
and 3 strombergs (Richard Good stuff)
Thought I would throw this out to experts for ideas
Thanks
Allan Reich
Vancouver
1975 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "Allan Reich" <areich@telus.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1D048ABD-72E0-4177-8DBB-A36AE29334CF@telus.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:28:26 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Allan:  Here are my non-expert comments:  Cyls. 3&4 are fed by the middle 
carb. I'd expect both plugs to read about the same if it were a mixture 
issue.  Are the plugs oily at all? If so, perhaps it's a case of worn valve 
guides, tho why only the last 3 cyls???  Do you get a noticeable puff of 
blue smoke after running down a long hill at closed throttle?  Any chance 
the oil level is overfull?

Some real experts should be along soon.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Reich" <areich@telus.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 5:12 PM
Subject: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6


> Greetings
> Strange smoke started coming out of my TR6 after long climb up steep hill 
> at
> 65 mph in 4th gear overdrive. Also start smelling the oily smoke.
> Can run all day at high speed with no issues. This just started as I was 
> on a
> similar ride last month with no issues.
> Ran home 100 miles no problems. Tested again yesterday on smaller but just 
> as
> steep and started smelling it again and saw faint smoke.
> Compression between 145 to 160. Plugs 1,2,3 clean and 4,5,6 sooty. Car has 
> cam
> and 3 strombergs (Richard Good stuff)
> Thought I would throw this out to experts for ideas
> Thanks
> Allan Reich
> Vancouver
> 1975 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628@verizon.net 

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 17:28:07 -0500
To: Allan Reich <areich@telus.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

First thought is valve guides.  Compression is good but when your under a load
high vacuum is sucking oil from around the guides.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 23, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Allan Reich <areich@telus.net> wrote:

> Greetings
> Strange smoke started coming out of my TR6 after long climb up steep hill
at
> 65 mph in 4th gear overdrive. Also start smelling the oily smoke.
> Can run all day at high speed with no issues. This just started as I was on
a
> similar ride last month with no issues.
> Ran home 100 miles no problems. Tested again yesterday on smaller but just
as
> steep and started smelling it again and saw faint smoke.
> Compression between 145 to 160. Plugs 1,2,3 clean and 4,5,6 sooty. Car has
cam
> and 3 strombergs (Richard Good stuff)
> Thought I would throw this out to experts for ideas
> Thanks
> Allan Reich
> Vancouver
> 1975 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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	<612D6B5C-A631-4E27-AAE1-B81428E3344B@execulink.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 17:29:51 -0500
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe someone found it on the ground near your car and figured the TR was the
probable owner and tossed it in?

BB

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 23, 2013, at 3:32 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:

> On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 at 5:28 AM, George Richardson wrote:
>
>>
>> Looks like the spring that goes around the plunger next to the bonnet
>> latch on my TR3.
>>
> Don't think so. That one is in place and if I remember correctly has much
> thicker coils and way more resistance. Thanks.
>
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 16:48:28 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 22:48:17 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Allan Reich <areich@telus.net>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6
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> Compression between 145 to 160. Plugs 1,2,3 clean and 4,5,6 sooty. Car has cam
> and 3 strombergs (Richard Good stuff)

What do you have for crankcase ventilation?

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 19:08:43 2013
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To: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Mystery Part and TR3 Bonnet Latch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 2013-07-23, at 6:29 PM, WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Maybe someone found it on the ground near your car and figured the TR was
the probable owner and tossed it in?
>
LOL, not likely. The car was inside an enclosed trailer, inside indoor
storage.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 23 19:14:17 2013
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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:13:46 -0700
From: Allan Reich <areich@telus.net>
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To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20130723224817.6Y0AA.16155.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Blue smoke under uphill load with TR6
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Randall:
All the real Crankcase gear is gone (prev owner, not me, I'm innocent !!).
I have a hose from the Valve cover to a "jam jar can" mounted where the 
old 3 tube system is on other TR6's.
Then there is a thinner hose going from the "jam jar" to the vacuum 
junction on the intake manifold that also junctions to the break 
booster. The science in this is the where the thinner vacuum hose is fit 
the manifold, on the pipe the hose fits over, there is a plastic plug 
cap, with a small hole drilled in it to limit the vacuum. the rubber 
hose fits over this plug/cap, so you don't know it is there.
Now, everything has worked like a charm for the two years I have been 
driving it, up until this last weekend.
But it is suspect, because it was the first place I checked, and the 
Valve cover hose was very close to the 1/4" of oil accumulated in the 
jam jar. I pulled it up so there was at least 2" above the oil. I 
thought I had fixed it and was very surprised when I had the issue 
yesterday. Now the smoke was much less, but the hill was short. It's too 
bad the test hill is over 100 miles away.
I am planning to drive it to the Bellevue ABFM this weekend; I don't 
believe I will have any problems. Any listers planning to go, can visit 
me at the show .. it is a distinctive French Blue, with badge bar 
(including the LIST badge) and has a white TR6 racing stripe (sometimes 
incorrectly referred to as a TR250 stripe),
Allan Reich
TR6 - CF30255U (+O)

On 7/23/2013 3:48 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Compression between 145 to 160. Plugs 1,2,3 clean and 4,5,6 sooty. Car has cam
>> and 3 strombergs (Richard Good stuff)
> What do you have for crankcase ventilation?
>
> Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Lazy OD solenoid
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This problem sounds just like the one I recently had with my TR4A overdrive.
Energize the solenoid electrically and a slight push with a finger actuated
it.  I concluded the "pull-in" portion of the solenoid had finally expired,
and a new solenoid corrected the problem.  And new solenoids aren't even
expensive, either!  Good luck.
George

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 07:45:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: "\"Art McEwen\"" <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
Cc: List TR <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lazy TR3A Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you run through the other diagnostic checks with no success and need to
measure the pressure the hydraulic system is making, I can supply the needed
pressure gauge. See:http://tiny.cc/odgauge
 
brgds, Jay
 
'64 Triumph TR4
since '67

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 14:34:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] backfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Troubleshooting recently restored tr-3 with backfiring problems.  Only happens
just coming off idle, then clears its throat and runs fine.  Highway driving
is also fine with out any hiccups.  

I have checked the plugs and found them
to be black with carbon.  I'm assuming too rich fuel and plan on slowly
leaning out the mixture to see if that helps.

My question to those more
experienced is:  what usually causes backfiring?  Am I on the right track or
should I also be checking timing?  I think the timing is ok as it starts well
and I've heard no pinging or other problems.

thanks
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 16:43:31 2013
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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 15:28:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] backfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

valve timing?
 
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: Gary Nafziger
<nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 2:34 PM
Subject: [TR] backfire
Troubleshooting recently restored tr-3 with backfiring problems.  Only happens
just coming off idle, then clears its throat and runs fine.  Highway driving
is also fine with out any hiccups.  

I have checked the plugs and found them
to be black with carbon.  I'm assuming too rich fuel and plan on slowly
leaning out the mixture to see if that helps.

My question to those more
experienced is:  what usually causes backfiring?  Am I on the right track or
should I also be checking timing?  I think the timing is ok as it starts well
and I've heard no pinging or other problems.

thanks
gary n.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 16:51:23 2013
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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 15:46:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] backfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

meant to say "valve lash"
Frank
 

________________________________
 From:
Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 2:34 PM
Subject: [TR]
backfire
  

Troubleshooting recently restored tr-3 with backfiring problems. 
Only happens
just coming off idle, then clears its throat and runs fine. 
Highway driving
is also fine with out any hiccups.  

I have checked the plugs
and found them
to be black with carbon.  I'm assuming too rich fuel and plan
on slowly
leaning out the mixture to see if that helps.

My question to those
more
experienced is:  what usually causes backfiring?  Am I on the right track
or
should I also be checking timing?  I think the timing is ok as it starts
well
and I've heard no pinging or other problems.

thanks
gary n.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 16:57:30 2013
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Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 22:57:04 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] backfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Troubleshooting recently restored tr-3 with backfiring problems. 

Through the carbs, or through the exhaust?  What are you using for ignition?

> I have checked the plugs and found them
> to be black with carbon.  I'm assuming too rich fuel and plan on slowly
> leaning out the mixture to see if that helps.
> 
> My question to those more
> experienced is:  what usually causes backfiring?  Am I on the right track or
> should I also be checking timing?  

Freshly built engine, combined with the black plugs, I would be looking at valve lash, & valve timing, especially if it's backfiring through the carbs.  Also anything that might be wrong around the distributor and coil, like a loose connection or short to ground.  The lead to the points and the ground for the point plate are forced to flex when you crack the throttle, so they could be problem spots.

At least in my experience, only lean mixture can cause backfiring; not rich.  With mixture rich, the flame burns all the oxygen and what's left is a non-flammable mixture of mostly nitrogen, carbon and combustion products.  It takes a lean mixture (or an ignition problem) to get enough air into the exhaust to burn.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 19:54:20 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 21:53:59 -0400
	FILETIME=[FEEB3DE0:01CE89A2]
Subject: [TR] Brake light Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A buddy of mine is looking for a brake light switch for his TR4. Would prefer
to not use the plastic versions sold for the Triumphs these days. I seem to
recall one from another car being a direct replacement. Is it Honda? Anybody
remember the details?

Thanks,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 20:10:50 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light Switch
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I believe honda but can't help more than that.  I would also like to know.

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [TR] Brake light Switch
From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Date: Jul 25, 2013 8:54 PM
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
CC:

A buddy of mine is looking for a brake light switch for his TR4. Would prefer
to not use the plastic versions sold for the Triumphs these days. I seem to
recall one from another car being a direct replacement. Is it Honda? Anybody
remember the details?

Thanks,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 25 20:22:48 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "marty sukey" <trmarty@hotmail.com>, "Triumph List"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU168-W35066725091F0C3D3EB548BA6A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 22:19:25 -0400
	/tDKAUGcZ0xzzSVOISpWd+/TvzheDLYxBAEVR1NOYouuO2po/y
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light Switch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a couple for the TR6 which I think is the same for the TR4

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AltBrakeSwitch.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: marty sukey
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 9:53 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Brake light Switch

A buddy of mine is looking for a brake light switch for his TR4. Would 
prefer
to not use the plastic versions sold for the Triumphs these days. I seem to
recall one from another car being a direct replacement. Is it Honda? Anybody
remember the details?

Thanks,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 06:28:23 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light Switch
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 6:53 PM, marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

> A buddy of mine is looking for a brake light switch for his TR4.



Remarkably, in case you did not notice, the originals were not Lucas --
they were made by Delco.

Must be some story there.  When I first saw mine I assumed a PO had put a
Chevy (or Vauxhall) part on the car but later learned that this is as
original.

Geo

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To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
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Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake light Switch
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Prior response from my personal archives:
If it doesn't offend your sensibilities, go to a Honda dealer and
get one for an '87 Civic Si.

Personally, I went to the auto parts store with the idea I wanted one 
from a Honda but not knowing which model.  The helpful clerk pulled a 
few until we found one that looked like it would work - just had two 
terminals and a threaded barrel.  Don't remember which model it was 
from but it's been fine (knock on wood) ever since.

Tony D

At 08:28 AM 7/26/2013, Geo Hahn wrote:
>On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 6:53 PM, marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > A buddy of mine is looking for a brake light switch for his TR4.
>
>
>
>Remarkably, in case you did not notice, the originals were not Lucas --
>they were made by Delco.
>
>Must be some story there.  When I first saw mine I assumed a PO had put a
>Chevy (or Vauxhall) part on the car but later learned that this is as
>original.
>
>Geo
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 09:43:28 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 10:40:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Question
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I am putting the little chrome finishers on the windshield frame.  I thought I had images of the direction they go but evidently not.  
 
So - the question to the all knowledgeable list is - which way?
Looks like they can go so that the bottom edge is sort of parallel to the stanchion flange that is visible from the front of the car or if I use the other one - pointing toward the outer edge.  My inclination is the former but want to make sure.  Anyone BTDT or have images?
 
Thanks
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 27 13:10:28 2013
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Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 14:10:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never mind all - the internet is such a great place...
 
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?85673-TR3-Windshield-Rebuild-and-Assembly-Step-by-Step
 
step #13...
 



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 07/27/13, WBEECH wrote:

What finishers? The tenon plates? I can take a picture for you. 

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 27, 2013, at 10:40 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

> I am putting the little chrome finishers on the windshield frame. I thought I had images of the direction they go but evidently not. 
> 
> So - the question to the all knowledgeable list is - which way?
> Looks like they can go so that the bottom edge is sort of parallel to the stanchion flange that is visible from the front of the car or if I use the other one - pointing toward the outer edge. My inclination is the former but want to make sure. Anyone BTDT or have images?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
> mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
> Tampa, Florida
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 28 10:46:49 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding
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I recently acquired a 1971 TR6 that has been off the road since 2001.  I
have replaced rear wheel cyl, master cyl and rubber brake lines, but am
having difficulty with the shuttle valve in the 4 way union.  Brakes are
bled with firm pedal and no air in system, but shuttle keeps shutting off
the rear circuit, so only the fronts are working. 

In order bleed rear brakes, we held the shuttle in place with a small
screwdriver until we had pressure on and no air in the rear circuit,
assuming that once the pressure was equalized that the shuttle would stop
moving, it hasn't.

Any ideas?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 28 12:15:56 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Jonas Payne" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding
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Did you center the shuttle as it sounds like it isn't staying centered. 
Here's a couple of good Moss videos that might help.... even walks you 
through a rebuild

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hk73mih2pc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLC91A2C23FE406FAF

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jonas Payne
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 12:46 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Bleeding

I recently acquired a 1971 TR6 that has been off the road since 2001.  I
have replaced rear wheel cyl, master cyl and rubber brake lines, but am
having difficulty with the shuttle valve in the 4 way union.  Brakes are
bled with firm pedal and no air in system, but shuttle keeps shutting off
the rear circuit, so only the fronts are working.

In order bleed rear brakes, we held the shuttle in place with a small
screwdriver until we had pressure on and no air in the rear circuit,
assuming that once the pressure was equalized that the shuttle would stop
moving, it hasn't.

Any ideas?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 29 00:04:22 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 22:57:15 -0700
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You need to pull the "valve" apart and find out what is wrong with it.  It
is not supposed to ever shut off the flow of fluid.  With the shuttle to
either end, it should only close the switch to light the warning lamp.

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 30 07:09:03 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Wedge list
	<tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:07:32 -0400
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Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. and TR8 FS
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 FWIW, I will have my $6500 TR8 that is for sale at the TRF Summer Party this
weekend in case anybody wants to take a gander.   Detail/pictures can be seen
at http://sdrv.ms/113Ehec


Thanks,

Marty

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Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 11:18:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars@att.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 274
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Marty,
I be @ TRF, will look,  JUST LOOK.
Got an '80 TR-8 with hoped  up
motor, abt.
300 hp+/-
John Dabars,  Indianapolis, Indiana
________________________________
 From: "triumphs-request@autox.team.net"
<triumphs-request@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday,
July 30, 2013 2:00 PM
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 274
  

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Today's Topics:

   1. TRF S.P. and TR8 FS
(marty sukey)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:07:32 -0400
From: marty sukey
<trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Wedge list
    <tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. and TR8 FS
Message-ID:
<BLU168-W12137D5E5624EB82CC3D2BFBA560@phx.gbl>
charset="us-ascii"

FWIW, I will have my $6500 TR8 that is for sale at the TRF
Summer Party this
weekend in case anybody wants to take a gander. 
Detail/pictures can be seen
at http://sdrv.ms/113Ehec


Thanks,

Marty
------------------------------
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End
of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 274
****************************************

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 31 14:47:15 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 16:45:56 -0400
References: <mailman.25.1375293604.10387.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 275
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On Tue, 30 Jul 2013 at 11:18 AM, John Dabars wrote:

>
> Marty,
> I be @ TRF, will look,  JUST LOOK.
> Got an '80 TR-8 with hoped  up
> motor, abt.
> 300 hp+/-
> John Dabars,  Indianapolis, Indiana


Chris and I will be there also. This time we are bringing two Triumphs, her
TR6 and my TR4. This will be the 25th Summer Party weekend for us - we came
even on the years Charles did not have a SP. This visit for the TR4 will be
the fifth different Triumph we have brought to Summer Party. While I am
interested in seeing Mary's car - it seems like a great value, there is just
no room in our collection for another one. We are trimming down as it is. See
you all in a few days.

Cheers
Keith

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:42:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6OYMNPdwUgU5DhTxWuYxv4Q2+iJw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Windshield Wiper Rack Grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What lubricant does everyone use on the windshield wiper rack? Mine is
running really slow with a new motor, and manually pushing the rack through
the  tubes is s little stiff.  I originally used white lithium that may be
the issue. It may be the tubes but they are a bitch to work on and hoped it
may be something easier like lubricant.

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