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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 10:22:14 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>, "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Windshield Wiper Rack Grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My general purpose grease is Shell Retinax A and it's certainly 'light' enough
for the wiper wheelboxes and the flexible drive.


Jonmac

From: John & Pat
Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
>To: Triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Thursday,
1 August 2013, 3:42
>Subject: [TR] Windshield Wiper Rack Grease
>
>
>What
lubricant does everyone use on the windshield wiper rack? Mine is
>running
really slow with a new motor, and manually pushing the rack through
>the 
tubes is s little stiff.  I originally used white lithium that may be
>the
issue. It may be the tubes but they are a bitch to work on and hoped it
>may
be something easier like lubricant.
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 12:53:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:44:08 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ya never know about Harbor Freight, but...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...you pays your money and you takes your chances.
http://www.harborfreight.com/iron-armor.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3113c&utm_source=1030

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 12:53:55 2013
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References: <mailman.25.1375380006.15277.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 14:46:32 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 276
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used white lithium, or maybe Lubriplate, the last time.  Been in about
3-4 years and with several infrequent uses it moves much faster than it did
with wheel bearing grease, especially when cold.  Not sure how many other
choices there are that will be significantly different than either of
those.

Ben......

On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 2:00 PM, <triumphs-request@autox.team.net> wrote:

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:42:28 -0700
> From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
> To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Windshield Wiper Rack Grease
> Message-ID: <000601ce8e60$c3e9d810$4bbd8830$@rr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> What lubricant does everyone use on the windshield wiper rack? Mine is
> running really slow with a new motor, and manually pushing the rack through
> the  tubes is s little stiff.  I originally used white lithium that may be
> the issue. It may be the tubes but they are a bitch to work on and hoped it
> may be something easier like lubricant.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug  1 14:41:36 2013
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Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 15:32:09 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Windshield Wiper Rack Grease
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used white lithium a couple of months ago.  Not  a long time frame, but it helped alot and still seems fine.

Roger Elliott


>>
>> What lubricant does everyone use on the windshield wiper rack? Mine is
>> running really slow with a new motor, and manually pushing the rack through
>> the  tubes is s little stiff.  I originally used white lithium that may be
>> the issue. It may be the tubes but they are a bitch to work on and hoped it
>> may be something easier like lubricant.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 09:11:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] moss motors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

if I recall someone on this list is a moss motors employee.
could you please contact me direct.
thanks
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 10:21:57 2013
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Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 12:21:19 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment
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Hello List:
Just trying to straighten out some of the issues with my '2 project that 
is finally ready for the road.
My '2 had the early filter head with the partial full-flow feature. I 
changed it out to a newer Purolator full flow filter head. I cleaned the 
head up and left the pressure adjustment as found. My engine seems to be 
running a high oil pressure - around 50 lbs. at idle and going up to 
around 70 - 80 lbs. revving or under load. I feel this is a bit high and 
wondering if I should try to adjust the pressure bolt on the filter head.
Do you try to get the adjustment at idle and that should set it for the 
entire range? I was aiming for something around 30 lbs. at idle and 
trying for around 70 at load or revving around 3000 rpm.
Am I on the right track here? Could it possibly be my gauge?
I have a freshly rebuilt engine with no apparent problems and using 20 - 
50 oil.
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 18:00:20 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 

> My '2 had the early filter head with the partial full-flow feature.

Not "full flow" at all, it was a bypass type filter, designed to take wool felt filter cartridges that wouldn't flow enough oil to feed the engine.  So the engine was fed with oil direct from the pump, and the filtered oil was returned to the crankcase (to be sucked up the next time).  That sounds really bad, until you consider that many successful engines (eg the Model T and VW bug) had no oil filters at all!

> My engine seems to be 
> running a high oil pressure - around 50 lbs. at idle and going up to 
> around 70 - 80 lbs. revving or under load. I feel this is a bit high

That is perfectly normal, I would leave the adjustment alone!  Practical Hints calls for 70 psi minimum with hot oil and traveling at speed.  If you would like to see only 70 psi instead of 70 to 80; try using thinner oil.  Assuming you are still seeing 80 with the oil thoroughly warmed up; without a thermostat it takes much longer for the oil to get up to normal operating temperature than shown on the dash gauge.  A fresh engine shouldn't need 20W50 unless you routinely drive in desert conditions.  Again Practical Hints only recommends up to 40 weight.  (Note that the 20W portion of your oil's rating refers to its "winter" performance, below freezing.  At operating temperature, it's a 50 weight oil.)

> Do you try to get the adjustment at idle and that should set it for the 
> entire range?

NO!  The pressure relief valve should only start to open at 70 psi.  In the vast majority of cases, it will not be open at all at idle.  And even once it starts to open, it operates over a range, so the pressure will still not be entirely constant.

> I have a freshly rebuilt engine with no apparent problems and using 20 - 
> 50 oil.

Stop worrying, get in and drive!
Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  2 13:42:53 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:29:56 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR2/3_-_oil_pressure_adjustment?=
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The 20 means it performs as a 20 wt. oil at -25 f limited to 4500 rpm.
The 50 means that at 210 degrees (which is considered a normal warm engine temp), it has the load capability of a 50 wt. oil.
The cold numbers are a "pourability" number, too.
One further thing:  the additives that allow this depletes as the oil is used because the additive "package" goes away through shearing and other factors, leaving you with a less effective oil.  
A 20w-50 may wind up as a 20w-40. Using group four (4) pao synthetic oil does away with this problem since they don't have an additive package.  This is one reason they have longer change intervals.
Be sure its a group four synthetic.  Other groups may be just a more refined regular oil with less sulfer in it.
Interesting but not really germane for most of us. 
As Randal says, good pressure, enjoy the drive!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment
Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 1:00 pm


---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 

> My '2 had the early filter head with the partial full-flow feature.

Not "full flow" at all, it was a bypass type filter, designed to take wool felt filter cartridges that wouldn't flow enough oil to feed the engine.  So the engine was fed with oil direct from the pump, and the filtered oil was returned to the crankcase (to be sucked up the next time).  That sounds really bad, until you consider that many successful engines (eg the Model T and VW bug) had no oil filters at all!

> My engine seems to be 
> running a high oil pressure - around 50 lbs. at idle and going up to 
> around 70 - 80 lbs. revving or under load. I feel this is a bit high

That is perfectly normal, I would leave the adjustment alone!  Practical Hints calls for 70 psi minimum with hot oil and traveling at speed.  If you would like to see only 70 psi instead of 70 to 80; try using thinner oil.  Assuming you are still seeing 80 with the oil thoroughly warmed up; without a thermostat it takes much longer for the oil to get up to normal operating temperature than shown on the dash gauge.  A fresh engine shouldn't need 20W50 unless you routinely drive in desert conditions.  Again Practical Hints only recommends up to 40 weight.  (Note that the 20W portion of your oil's rating refers to its "winter" performance, below freezing.  At operating temperature, it's a 50 weight oil.)

> Do you try to get the adjustment at idle and that should set it for the 
> entire range?

NO!  The pressure relief valve should only start to open at 70 psi.  In the vast majority of cases, it will not be open at all at idle.  And even once it starts to open, it operates over a range, so the pressure will still not be entirely constant.

> I have a freshly rebuilt engine with no apparent problems and using 20 - 
> 50 oil.

Stop worrying, get in and drive!
Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 15:02:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Renown
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am casually considering buying a Triumph Renown. Anyone on the list
already have experience with one? I know that they are slow. This one has been
sitting, but is complete and was "running when parked". The wood & leather are
good and there is no appreciable rust. Bodywork is excellent. The engine was
rebuilt about 3,000 miles ago (before parking it 10 years ago...) and has the
receipts. The car is not running and driving and hasn't been started in years.
RHD.
     It looks like it has a Standard Vanguard engine and 3 on the tree
shifting. I was wondering about modifying the engine closer to tr3 specs and
maybe installing an OD on the trans. Has anyone tried this? Some came with OD,
but I don't think that this one does.
     It looks like the Triumph Razoredge
Owners Club (http://www.trocltd.com) won't sell re-manufactured parts to North
America for fear of litigation. That is a bit of a concern.
     This is
essentially a restored car that needs re-commissioning.
     Any other Renown
owners on the list?

     Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 08:11:06 2013
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Subject: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding
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List, 



While we're on the subject, TRF lists a "washer, spring packing, to increase pressure", Triumph part no. 513900, in their blue TR6 catalog. It measures .130" thickness. 



The same catalog list two pressure springs, one for early TR6, the other for gearboxes after CD15651. Any idea what that was about? 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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To: fogbro1@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is for the A-type.  The spring serves two purposes.  The first is to
store energy to engage the overdrive when the solenoid is energized.  The
other is to set the pressure relief valve pressure.  As the pump pumps oil
into the reservoir the piston moves out compressing the spring.  When the
spring compresses enough the piston moves far enough to expose ports that will
dump excess oil back into the sump.  Using a stiffer spring means more
pressure is required to expose the ports and system pressure will be higher.
Fitting shims (washers) behind the spring will do the same thing.


Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: fogbro1 <fogbro1@comcast.net>


List,



While we're on the subject, TRF lists a "washer, spring packing, to increase
pressure", Triumph part no. 513900, in their blue TR6 catalog. It measures
.130"
thickness.



The same catalog list two pressure springs, one for early TR6, the other for
gearboxes after CD15651. Any idea what that was about?



Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 09:13:47 2013
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 15:09:15 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My point being that at least .130" of shimming is O.K. for the small spring
accumulator used on the TR6. At least, the factory said it was.



Ed



----- Original Message -----


From: "Dave Massey" <dave1massey@cs.com>
To: fogbro1@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 10:25:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding

This is for the A-type.B  The spring serves two purposes.B  The first is to
store energy to engage the overdrive when the solenoid is energized.B  The
other is to set the pressure relief valve pressure.B  As the pump pumps oil
into the reservoir the piston moves out compressing the spring.B  When the
spring compresses enough the piston moves far enough to expose ports that will
dump excess oil back into the sump.B  Using a stiffer spring means more
pressure is required to expose the ports and system pressure will be higher.B 
Fitting shims (washers) behind the spring will do the same thing.


Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: fogbro1 <fogbro1@comcast.net>


List,



While we're on the subject, TRF lists a "washer, spring packing, to increase
pressure", Triumph part no. 513900, in their blue TR6 catalog. It measures
.130"
thickness.



The same catalog list two pressure springs, one for early TR6, the other for
gearboxes after CD15651. Any idea what that was about?



Ed Woods
Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: fogbro1 <fogbro1@comcast.net>


List,



While we're on the subject, TRF lists a "washer, spring packing, to increase
pressure", Triumph part no. 513900, in their blue TR6 catalog. It measures
.130"
thickness.



The same catalog list two pressure springs, one for early TR6, the other for
gearboxes after CD15651. Any idea what that was about?



Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 09:14:37 2013
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Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 15:11:08 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1375542668;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,



My point being that at least .130" of shimming is O.K. for the small spring
accumulator used on the TR6. At least, the factory said it was.

B 

Ed

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 09:58:50 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 08:58:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6QXDH38EI32udtTlWUGTv4nQjyUwAA1wnQ
Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive shim and spring binding
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> My point being that at least .130" of shimming is O.K. for 
> the small spring accumulator used on the TR6. At least, the 
> factory said it was.

Makes sense to me.  I haven't tried to measure, but the main spring for the
small accumulator looks to have a lot more travel than the large accumulator
one does.  The spring has to exert a lot more force with the large
accumulator, and is wound with correspondingly heavier wire, leaving less
room between the coils.  And I think .130" of shim is OK even for the large
accumulator.

But for sure I am going to double-check, next time I start installing shims.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 19:04:08 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 20:56:01 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6QrR5KEo8XxZ8ITNeOMEpOU3O1ww==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel sender unit
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List:  I have three sender units, none of which appear to work.  Any genius
out there prepared to take a look and perhaps get one or two of these units
operational for my latest restorations?  If so, please contact me off-list.
Many thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 19:35:07 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 21:14:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recovering TR4A black vinyl center console
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
So, I am getting down to the final tasks on my 1967 TR4A IRS and after digging
out my center console piece where the gear shift comes up thru it looks pretty
bad. The driver side is cracked where it has been rubbed by the driver's leg
and overall it looks pretty bad. I know that TRF and Moss sells some
recovering pieces that are similar to what is used in the TR4A but not a
direct replacement as the opening for the transmission is flat on the
replacement and the TR4A it is kind of an inverted cone. I have taken the
piece to a couple of local automotive upholsterers but neither one was willing
to take it on.
I had considered trying it myself and haven't actually ruled that out yet
which is why I am sending this email out to the group. Does anybody have any
experience recovering a TR4A console?
Thanks!
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 20:34:14 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 19:33:53 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6Quw9Xt/x+lHgCToy4lNT0u6kCMg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Folks,  my block developed a crack in the block in the rear by the oil
galley. I opened the radiator cap and found the ugly milky chocolate goo.

So. I'm in need of a block. Does anyone have one they're willing to sell? 

I looked on eBay, and there's a few there, but they want $325 plus $200 in
transport charges. I'm in San Diego and will travel anywhere in So Cal to
pick it up.

 

Thanks

Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug  3 21:04:44 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CD187F11C39E4ED180A4CA1ACBDA278C@DaveLaptop>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 22:57:50 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Recovering TR4A black vinyl center console
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You may want to call Larry Learns in Indiana, Pennsylvania.  I have had him
do various upholstery jobs for me and he is amazing.  He can be reached at
(724) 465-8661.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 9:15 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Recovering TR4A black vinyl center console

List,
So, I am getting down to the final tasks on my 1967 TR4A IRS and after
digging out my center console piece where the gear shift comes up thru it
looks pretty bad. The driver side is cracked where it has been rubbed by the
driver's leg and overall it looks pretty bad. I know that TRF and Moss sells
some recovering pieces that are similar to what is used in the TR4A but not
a direct replacement as the opening for the transmission is flat on the
replacement and the TR4A it is kind of an inverted cone. I have taken the
piece to a couple of local automotive upholsterers but neither one was
willing to take it on.
I had considered trying it myself and haven't actually ruled that out yet
which is why I am sending this email out to the group. Does anybody have any
experience recovering a TR4A console?
Thanks!
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 06:36:19 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 08:35:56 -0400
Thread-index: Ac6RDqaqNyW7jQ42Ru6COUcV63fMoQ==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone remind me of the function of the amp gauge?  Mine stays on
whenever the key is on.  ISTR that it should only be on when the system is
either charging or discharging but not sure.   If mine is not functioning
correctly  - what is the likely reason?  Do I have the wires attached to the
wrong terminal?  I know I could just try it, but would rather not play 'what
if'.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 07:56:25 2013
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From: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 15:51:05 +0200
Subject: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Listers,

As a faithful lurker living in Holland this list has taught me many things
about Triumph Trbs of which I have put some to good use.
I have started to take the head off the engine of my Tr3 in order to have  the
valve guides replaced, as the oil consumption has become rather high. Itbs a
TR4 high port engine.
As I am not an experienced mechanic this is a major job for me and I feel
somewhat unsure. I removed the manifolds and everything else what is in the
way and have taken off the rocker assembly.
I thought I was well prepared and had done my homework, but I ran into this
problem right away.
I got a fright when I lifted a pushrod out and it would only go back down
again partly.
The same with the second pushrod. Am I missing something?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 08:28:21 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 09:27:52 -0500
References: <C45674055C7E4831BC7B4303FA72984A@JaapPC>
To: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jaap,

The vertical travel of the pushrods is determined by the position of its lobe
on the camshaft.
Each rod "stands" inside of a tappet, which rests on the camshaft.
As the camshaft rotates, driven by the timing chain from the crankshaft, the
tappet/rod unit move up and down.

My guess for the difference is that:

1. Maybe you rotated the camshaft since you removed the rods, and it is in the
high position now
2. The tappet is still in the hole, and is maybe "stuck" in a higher position,
resisting the rod

Best of luck.


On Aug 4, 2013, at 8:51 AM, Jaap Dekker wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> As a faithful lurker living in Holland this list has taught me many things
> about Triumph Trbs of which I have put some to good use.
> I have started to take the head off the engine of my Tr3 in order to have
the
> valve guides replaced, as the oil consumption has become rather high. Itbs
a
> TR4 high port engine.
> As I am not an experienced mechanic this is a major job for me and I feel
> somewhat unsure. I removed the manifolds and everything else what is in the
> way and have taken off the rocker assembly.
> I thought I was well prepared and had done my homework, but I ran into this
> problem right away.
> I got a fright when I lifted a pushrod out and it would only go back down
> again partly.
> The same with the second pushrod. Am I missing something?
>
> Regards,
> Jaap Dekker.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 08:41:38 2013
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 09:34:47 -0500
To: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably when you are pulling the pushrod out, it's still "stuck" to 
the lifter / tappet and has pulled the tappet out of its bore.  Since 
you're taking off the head, that's not a big deal - if you weren't 
removing the head, they are a pain to get back in their bores.

The oil in the tappet creates some "suction" between the pushrod and 
the tappet.  You can try twirling the pushrod or pulling it up only 
about a half inch (a centimeter) and then pushing back down until it 
feels free of the tappet - it should pull out quite easily then.

You'll do fine - we'll be happy to help walk you through the process.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:51 AM 8/4/2013, Jaap Dekker wrote:
>Hello Listers,
>
>As a faithful lurker living in Holland this list has taught me many things
>about Triumph Trbs of which I have put some to good use.
>I have started to take the head off the engine of my Tr3 in order to have  the
>valve guides replaced, as the oil consumption has become rather high. Itbs a
>TR4 high port engine.
>As I am not an experienced mechanic this is a major job for me and I feel
>somewhat unsure. I removed the manifolds and everything else what is in the
>way and have taken off the rocker assembly.
>I thought I was well prepared and had done my homework, but I ran into this
>problem right away.
>I got a fright when I lifted a pushrod out and it would only go back down
>again partly.
>The same with the second pushrod. Am I missing something?
>
>Regards,
>Jaap Dekker.
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 08:42:07 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I had this happen once.  The problem is the oil on the lifter/pushrod
interface will create enough suction to lift lift the lifter along with the
pushrod to the point where the lifter comes out of its hole in the block.  If
you get lucky you can manipulate the lifter and get it to fall back into the
hole.  But since you are going to pull the head anyway you can address the
issue directly at that time so don't worry about it.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Jaap Dekker <tr3@chello.nl>


Hello Listers,

As a faithful lurker living in Holland this list has taught me many things
about Triumph Trbs of which I have put some to good use.
I have started to take the head off the engine of my Tr3 in order to have
the
valve guides replaced, as the oil consumption has become rather high. Itbs a
TR4 high port engine.
As I am not an experienced mechanic this is a major job for me and I feel
somewhat unsure. I removed the manifolds and everything else what is in the
way and have taken off the rocker assembly.
I thought I was well prepared and had done my homework, but I ran into this
problem right away.
I got a fright when I lifted a pushrod out and it would only go back down
again partly.
The same with the second pushrod. Am I missing something?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 08:44:22 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Stays on what?  The gauge should stay at the center of the dial unless the
battery is being either charged or discharged.  If it is staying in the
discharged mode can you effect the reading by switching on the lights?  Is the
wiring stock or has it been "modified?"






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>


Could someone remind me of the function of the amp gauge?  Mine stays on
whenever the key is on.  ISTR that it should only be on when the system is
either charging or discharging but not sure.   If mine is not functioning
correctly  - what is the likely reason?  Do I have the wires attached to the
wrong terminal?  I know I could just try it, but would rather not play 'what
if'.



Thanks



Carl

1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 08:55:21 2013
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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 10:47:47 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure what you refer to as "on" but it sounds as if you gauge is
working correctly. When the key is turned on, the ignition coil and any
accessories left on wil register as a discharge because power is only
provided by the battery. After the engine has started, the generator will
supply the power and any excess curent will recharge the battery and show
as a charge on the amp gauge. When the battery is sufficiently charged,
the amp gauge will be near zero.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Could someone remind me of the function of the amp gauge?  Mine stays on
> whenever the key is on.  ISTR that it should only be on when the system is
> either charging or discharging but not sure.   If mine is not functioning
> correctly  - what is the likely reason?  Do I have the wires attached to
> the
> wrong terminal?  I know I could just try it, but would rather not play
> 'what
> if'.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>  <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 09:09:58 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 11:09:22 -0400
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Thread-index: AQFKRS2dSw1KCy+jp7aEp6tUawzWAgHztDScmn4gVQA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm sorry - it was too early this morning....

What I mean is that the indicator light stays on.   The battery is fully
charged.   With the car running and nothing causing a discharge, the light
stays on and the amp gauge is at 0.   

Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: greg@gelhar.com [mailto:greg@gelhar.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2013 10:48 AM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: Triumph Mail List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge

I'm not sure what you refer to as "on" but it sounds as if you gauge is
working correctly. When the key is turned on, the ignition coil and any
accessories left on wil register as a discharge because power is only
provided by the battery. After the engine has started, the generator will
supply the power and any excess curent will recharge the battery and show as
a charge on the amp gauge. When the battery is sufficiently charged, the amp
gauge will be near zero.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Could someone remind me of the function of the amp gauge /indicator
light/?  Mine stays 
> on whenever the key is on.  ISTR that it should only be on when the system
is
> either charging or discharging but not sure.   If mine is not functioning
> correctly  - what is the likely reason?  Do I have the wires attached 
> to the wrong terminal?  I know I could just try it, but would rather 
> not play 'what if'.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>  <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> 
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 11:11:58 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Generator or altenator?


> I'm sorry - it was too early this morning....
>
> What I mean is that the indicator light stays on.   The battery is fully
> charged.   With the car running and nothing causing a discharge, the light
> stays on and the amp gauge is at 0.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: greg@gelhar.com [mailto:greg@gelhar.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2013 10:48 AM
> To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
> Cc: Triumph Mail List
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
>
> I'm not sure what you refer to as "on" but it sounds as if you gauge is
> working correctly. When the key is turned on, the ignition coil and any
> accessories left on wil register as a discharge because power is only
> provided by the battery. After the engine has started, the generator will
> supply the power and any excess curent will recharge the battery and show
> as
> a charge on the amp gauge. When the battery is sufficiently charged, the
> amp
> gauge will be near zero.
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo, MN
>
>
>> Could someone remind me of the function of the amp gauge /indicator
> light/?  Mine stays
>> on whenever the key is on.  ISTR that it should only be on when the
>> system
> is
>> either charging or discharging but not sure.   If mine is not
>> functioning
>> correctly  - what is the likely reason?  Do I have the wires attached
>> to the wrong terminal?  I know I could just try it, but would rather
>> not play 'what if'.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>>
>>  <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/>
>> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>>
>> Tampa, FL
>>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 10:32:05 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 09:31:38 -0700
Thread-Index: AQFKRS2dSw1KCy+jp7aEp6tUawzWAgHztDScmn4gVQCAABKLgA==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Amp Gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> What I mean is that the indicator light stays on.   The 
> battery is fully
> charged.   With the car running and nothing causing a 
> discharge, the light
> stays on and the amp gauge is at 0.  

The light should go off with the engine running at a fast idle (or above).
Sometimes it will glow at a low idle.

Most likely cause depends a lot on recent history.  But certainly doing a
visual on the wiring at the control box & generator is a good start.  The
wires at the generator end lead a hard life, and it's not unheard-of for
them to just break.  The wire from the large terminal on the generator
should lead to 'D' on the control box, and the small terminal connects to
'F'.  While you're there, grab the generator and try to move it on its
mounts.  Should be completely solid, any movement at all indicates a problem
(usually with the lower front mount).

There is a Lucas booklet at http://tinyurl.com/bab2hsc with methodical
tests.

If you've been working under the dash recently and think the lamp might be
wired wrong, a simple test is to disconnect the small yellow wire at the 'D'
terminal of the control box (or just both D wires if that is easier) with
the engine stopped.  The dash lamp should now stay out, with the key on or
off.  If so, the wiring to the lamp is probably OK (since it was on before).

If the generator has been off (or replaced), it's worthwhile IMO to try
repolarizing it.  Lots of ways to accomplish that, but since you have the
later control box with the quick connects, it's probably easiest to pull the
wire off 'F' and brush it against terminal 'A'.  You should get some small
sparks.  Then connect the wire back to 'F' and try it again.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 10:44:37 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 09:42:23 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6RINDlD03zUyfoS9GZlWkchwe4AAAD9Lwg
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>  I had this happen once.  The problem is the oil on the 
> lifter/pushrod interface will create enough suction to lift 
> lift the lifter along with the pushrod to the point where the 
> lifter comes out of its hole in the block. 

Ditto; except I've had at least one try to do that, every time I've taken
the pushrods out.  My solution is to list just an inch or so then spin the
pushrod back and forth a few times with my fingers, until the weight of the
lifter drops off.

As noted, if you are pulling the head anyway, it's much easier to put the
lifters back with the head off.  Putting them back with the head in place is
like trying to thread a needle in the dark.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 12:17:02 2013
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From: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1375639205.29966.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:16:31 +0200
Subject: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
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Thanks to everyone who has replied to my question, I am reassured I can 
resolve this issue.
It is great to have the back-up of this list.

Regards,
Jaap.

Ditto; except I've had at least one try to do that, every time I've taken
the pushrods out.  My solution is to list just an inch or so then spin the
pushrod back and forth a few times with my fingers, until the weight of the
lifter drops off.

As noted, if you are pulling the head anyway, it's much easier to put the
lifters back with the head off.  Putting them back with the head in place is
like trying to thread a needle in the dark.

-- Randall


------------------------------

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 280
**************************************** 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 13:01:45 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 13:57:17 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [TR] The Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival. Featuring the Kastner Cup.
 6-8 September
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Triumph List:

If you are planning to join us at Road America in September, we have a Triumph
Package Deal for you.  If you are interested, please contact me.

We are also looking for some nicely prepared TRs. Most slots are fill for the
Gather on the Green car show, but we need a few more.

Package deal includes Gate, Dinner on Friday Nite, and more. Your "crew"
assignment will be with the TR250K. We have race car garages rented at Turn 14
and Paddock Parking for street Triumphs will be at Turn 5.

Event Poster is available and Kas will be there to sign it.


Joe Alexander
Friends Of Triumph
N197tr4@cs.com

P.S. This is the biggest Kastner Cup we have ever had and there are activities
for everyone.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 14:33:28 2013
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Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 15:31:53 -0500
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <8D05F374C2D46E0-1DC0-B161@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com>
	<62.C6.14128.F648EF15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

One other tip I just remembered - someone besides me came up with 
this one, but I like it.  Use a long piece of stiff wire (like a coat 
hanger straightened out), shove it down the hole parallel to the 
pushrod and use it to hold the lifter in place while you pull out the pushrod.

Tony Drews

At 11:42 AM 8/4/2013, Randall wrote:
> >  I had this happen once.  The problem is the oil on the
> > lifter/pushrod interface will create enough suction to lift
> > lift the lifter along with the pushrod to the point where the
> > lifter comes out of its hole in the block.
>
>Ditto; except I've had at least one try to do that, every time I've taken
>the pushrods out.  My solution is to list just an inch or so then spin the
>pushrod back and forth a few times with my fingers, until the weight of the
>lifter drops off.
>
>As noted, if you are pulling the head anyway, it's much easier to put the
>lifters back with the head off.  Putting them back with the head in place is
>like trying to thread a needle in the dark.
>
>-- Randall
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 15:03:49 2013
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References: <000f01ce90ad$65bd9bb0$3138d310$@uprichard.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 14:01:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel sender unit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Andrew --

In case you haven't been able to get any of yours sorted, I have a
'universal' sender that might suit.  I have no idea what the ohm range is
(though I could check it) nor what range would be needed for the TR3
(though I could look it up).

http://tinyurl.com/lt4xhpg

It's yours for the postage if you need it - though we should check some
numbers beforehand.

Geo



On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 5:56 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net>wrote:

> List:  I have three sender units, none of which appear to work.  Any genius
> out there prepared to take a look and perhaps get one or two of these units
> operational for my latest restorations?  If so, please contact me off-list.
> Many thanks !
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Peter K" <kentech0822@myfairpoint.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 17:18:00 -0400
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Subject: [TR]  Recovering TR4A black vinyl center console
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had this problem too and at the time Moss wouldnbt recognize that their
cover didnbt fit all TRs. My solution was to use a large sanding drum in the
drill press and widen out the hole to reduce the lip around the opening. It
still fit a little too high on the center brace but fit much better and I
didnbt want to hog out a good console support. hth. PeterK


From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Recovering TR4A black vinyl center console

List,
So, I am getting down to the final tasks on my 1967 TR4A IRS and after
digging
out my center console piece where the gear shift comes up thru it looks
pretty
bad. The driver side is cracked where it has been rubbed by the driver's leg
and overall it looks pretty bad. I know that TRF and Moss sells some
recovering pieces that are similar to what is used in the TR4A but not a
direct replacement as the opening for the transmission is flat on the
replacement and the TR4A it is kind of an inverted cone. I have taken the
piece to a couple of local automotive upholsterers but neither one was
willing
to take it on.
I had considered trying it myself and haven't actually ruled that out yet
which is why I am sending this email out to the group. Does anybody have any
experience recovering a TR4A console?
Thanks!
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 20:18:26 -0500
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
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Subject: [TR] An $18 TR3 ?
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Just ran across this on Craigslist:
  http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3946696695.html

Maybe a typo? There's one interesting quote: "The pics of the car are old and
do not reflect what the car looks like now"...

Lee

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug  4 20:44:32 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Lee Daniels'" <lee@automate-it.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 19:44:19 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] An $18 TR3 ?
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> Just ran across this on Craigslist:
>   http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3946696695.html
> 
> Maybe a typo? There's one interesting quote: "The pics of the 
> car are old and do not reflect what the car looks like now"...

The same ad has been posted all over the country, for several weeks now.
Smells like a scam to me.  Note that you linked to the Houston Craigslist,
but the car is supposed to be in FL.  It's been on the LA CL multiple times
now.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 09:02:35 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Lee Daniels'" <lee@automate-it.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <e8c5225b6fbf06cb9c9a2731f1631474.squirrel@webmail.automate-it.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 09:01:08 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6Rerw1XOnDT0tdTkSl7X2jQpvuJQAaC2nQ
Subject: Re: [TR] An $18 TR3 ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Talked to the guy today, of course $18 is a error, he says it should be
$18,000 but he will accept $15,000 for it.  10,000 original miles, his
father bought new, sold it, bought it back.  BUT he has no way to prove up
the miles, no documentation from when dad owned to car and no service
records

Claims to have new Magic front end kit and interior from TRF installed.
Front apron is fiberglass, from the pictures it does not look like a very
happy car.  Car is located in Jacksonville, FL.

NFI,
Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2013 8:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] An $18 TR3 ?

Just ran across this on Craigslist:
  http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3946696695.html

Maybe a typo? There's one interesting quote: "The pics of the car are old
and do not reflect what the car looks like now"...

Lee

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 10:49:40 2013
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Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good home
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Saw this on the mgs list.

mjb.

--------

Hello Friends,

Please forgive the commercial nature of this post.  I'm not writing to
advertise a car so much as trying to help a friend who badly needs to
liquidate his car.  The car is a Triumph TR3.  Yea, I know this is the
M.G., list but this is a great car for someone - and at a
bottom-dollar price.  (Check Hagerty to see the value of a nicely
restored car!)  Sadly (or not) I already have NINE cars.  Here are a
few pictures;

http://www.aubard.us/Pete/

...and his listing,

http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/3937042732.html

Thanks guys and again, sorry for 'marketing'.  Peter's a really good
guy.  He just needs a little help right now.

-rick

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 15:58:13 2013
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Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 21:55:52 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good
 home
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Seems to be the same car that is all over Craigslist, with the price listed anywhere between $18 and $150,000.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/3976688761.html

It does look reasonably nice (although he admits the photos aren't current and apparently the paint is now bad), but I wonder what it's doing in Florida with just one California blue plate on it.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 16:13:30 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130805215552.L78E9.42554.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 17:09:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good
 home
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he's trying to sell it.  I talked to him twice.  I think its worth a lot 
less.  the current paint is pretty bad; that fiberglass nose I think really 
dings the value.

he told me he originally put in 18k, but craigslist dropped the k.  likely 
the 150,000 is also his ineptitude.

last ad I saw was $15,000.  he told me he'd keep it rather than sell it for 
less than $13,000.  he says there are a bunch of new parts, both installed 
and uninstalled.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 4:55 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good 
home

Seems to be the same car that is all over Craigslist, with the price listed 
anywhere between $18 and $150,000.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/3976688761.html

It does look reasonably nice (although he admits the photos aren't current 
and apparently the paint is now bad), but I wonder what it's doing in 
Florida with just one California blue plate on it.

Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 16:44:02 2013
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	<6173B84C37624A628A7CE0B964FAC19C@Datsun>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 15:39:59 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good
 home
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 3:09 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> ... he told me he'd keep it rather than sell it for less than $13,000...



I think he will get to keep it.

BTW -- that appears to be a Florida Blue Plate (antique or collector plate).

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug  5 16:44:28 2013
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References: <51FFD78A.4000203@bradakis.com>
	<20130805215552.L78E9.42554.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 15:41:55 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] OT - My friend has a great car needing a good
 home
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 2:55 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Seems to be the same car that is all over Craigslist, with the price
> listed anywhere between $18 and $150,000.
>
> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/3976688761.html



Actually, that ad has an asking price of $1.5 million.  Possibly a record
for a TR3A.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 04:49:37 2013
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From: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24.1375725603.6879.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 12:40:00 +0200
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have examined the head and although there's a lot of carbon junk in the 
cavities and on the valves, it looks like my problem might be something 
else. I took the dirtiest exhaust valve out and cleaned it with a wirebrush, 
it looks ok. The guides are bronze and there is little play. If the rest is 
like this I will put it back together and leave it like that.

When I looked into the cylinder liners I found what could be the reason for 
the excessive oil consumption. Number three and four had deep pitting where 
the gudgeon? pins rest in tdc on both sides. There are also deep scars 
running straight down. I suspect the circlips have failed.
I wiil have to dig into the bottom end now. I could use some advice on how 
to proceed.
I expect I will have to replace all liners and pistons?
There's 87 mm in there now. Would it hurt to go to 89 mm?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 15:31:53 -0500
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

One other tip I just remembered - someone besides me came up with
this one, but I like it.  Use a long piece of stiff wire (like a coat
hanger straightened out), shove it down the hole parallel to the
pushrod and use it to hold the lifter in place while you pull out the 
pushrod.

Tony Drews

At 11:42 AM 8/4/2013, Randall wrote:
> >  I had this happen once.  The problem is the oil on the
> > lifter/pushrod interface will create enough suction to lift
> > lift the lifter along with the pushrod to the point where the
> > lifter comes out of its hole in the block.
>
>Ditto; except I've had at least one try to do that, every time I've taken
>the pushrods out.  My solution is to list just an inch or so then spin the
>pushrod back and forth a few times with my fingers, until the weight of the
>lifter drops off.
>
>As noted, if you are pulling the head anyway, it's much easier to put the
>lifters back with the head off.  Putting them back with the head in place 
>is
>like trying to thread a needle in the dark.
>
>-- Randall
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24.1375725603.6879.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<87916601B1F2443F825574D0343F9CB2@JaapPC>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 07:33:13 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You might experience head gasket sealing issues with 89mm stuff. It would 
take some extra care. Randall has a method that I'm sure he can show you if 
you decide to go that route.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jaap Dekker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 6:40 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

I have examined the head and although there's a lot of carbon junk in the
cavities and on the valves, it looks like my problem might be something
else. I took the dirtiest exhaust valve out and cleaned it with a wirebrush,
it looks ok. The guides are bronze and there is little play. If the rest is
like this I will put it back together and leave it like that.

When I looked into the cylinder liners I found what could be the reason for
the excessive oil consumption. Number three and four had deep pitting where
the gudgeon? pins rest in tdc on both sides. There are also deep scars
running straight down. I suspect the circlips have failed.
I wiil have to dig into the bottom end now. I could use some advice on how
to proceed.
I expect I will have to replace all liners and pistons?
There's 87 mm in there now. Would it hurt to go to 89 mm?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 06:35:54 2013
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From: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24.1375725603.6879.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 14:35:36 +0200
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks for your answer Andrew, does the extra cost and trouble for the 
headgasket bring any benefit, as in torque?
What about re-using the head gasket in case I stay with 87 mm?
I am leaving for Malvern/England tomorrow and might as well see if I can 
bring the parts I need.


-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- 
From: Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 2:12 PM
To: 'Jerry Van Vlack' ; 'Jaap Dekker' ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

"deep scars" and "excessive oil consumption" might suggest it is indeed time
for a rebuild.

Two of my TR3s have 89 mm pistons and liners.  The only "hurt" is that the
pistons cost more.  As far as the head gasket is concerned, you will need to
buy the 89mm gasket as the other gaskets will not work.

Andrew Uprichard


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 7:33 AM
To: Jaap Dekker; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

You might experience head gasket sealing issues with 89mm stuff. It would
take some extra care. Randall has a method that I'm sure he can show you if
you decide to go that route.
JVV

-----Original Message-----
From: Jaap Dekker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 6:40 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

I have examined the head and although there's a lot of carbon junk in the
cavities and on the valves, it looks like my problem might be something
else. I took the dirtiest exhaust valve out and cleaned it with a wirebrush,
it looks ok. The guides are bronze and there is little play. If the rest is
like this I will put it back together and leave it like that.

When I looked into the cylinder liners I found what could be the reason for
the excessive oil consumption. Number three and four had deep pitting where
the gudgeon? pins rest in tdc on both sides. There are also deep scars
running straight down. I suspect the circlips have failed.
I wiil have to dig into the bottom end now. I could use some advice on how
to proceed.
I expect I will have to replace all liners and pistons?
There's 87 mm in there now. Would it hurt to go to 89 mm?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 06:47:09 2013
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From: "Jaap Dekker" <tr3@chello.nl>
To: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24.1375725603.6879.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 14:42:02 +0200
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you for answering, Jerry. Help from the list is much apreciated.
I have a new original gasket, could that be adapted for 89 mm?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker.

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- 
From: Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 1:33 PM
To: Jaap Dekker ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

You might experience head gasket sealing issues with 89mm stuff. It would
take some extra care. Randall has a method that I'm sure he can show you if
you decide to go that route.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jaap Dekker
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 6:40 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.

I have examined the head and although there's a lot of carbon junk in the
cavities and on the valves, it looks like my problem might be something
else. I took the dirtiest exhaust valve out and cleaned it with a wirebrush,
it looks ok. The guides are bronze and there is little play. If the rest is
like this I will put it back together and leave it like that.

When I looked into the cylinder liners I found what could be the reason for
the excessive oil consumption. Number three and four had deep pitting where
the gudgeon? pins rest in tdc on both sides. There are also deep scars
running straight down. I suspect the circlips have failed.
I wiil have to dig into the bottom end now. I could use some advice on how
to proceed.
I expect I will have to replace all liners and pistons?
There's 87 mm in there now. Would it hurt to go to 89 mm?

Regards,
Jaap Dekker

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 12:40:22 2013
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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 18:34:50 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Jaap Dekker <tr3@chello.nl>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Pushrods tr4 engine won't go back down.
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---- Jaap Dekker <tr3@chello.nl> wrote: 
> Thank you for answering, Jerry. Help from the list is much apreciated.
> I have a new original gasket, could that be adapted for 89 mm?

You will need to check carefully, but most likely not.  If the gasket ring around the cylinder hangs out into the cylinder, then the gasket is not likely to last for long at all.  You really need a gasket made for the 89mm liners (which AFAIK are all solid metal gaskets, not composites like the original gaskets).

Since it seems that you are mostly interested in a reliable engine; my suggestion would be to stick with the 87mm liners.  The 89mm units are really custom made racing parts (which is why the price is nearly double that of the 87mm liners), and I've been told that they tend to aggravate any tendency to overheat.

Of course, I've never been one to take my own advice, so I have a set of 89mm liners on the shelf to go along with a lot of other parts that will probably reduce reliability (but hopefully increase the fun factor).  So YMMV and all that.

PS, I forget who offhand, but someone has suggested turning Delrin buttons to locate the gudgeon pins, rather than relying on circlips.  You aren't the first to have the circlips come out, with the damage you have observed.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 18:10:33 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Working on a TR 3. Time to clean up in refurb the fan and heater. Fan was
quite tight and would not turn easily. I washed it with wd-40 vs brake
cleaner.  I put some drops of light machine oil on both ends.

It now spins like a champ and quite silent. Should I open it up and grease
it? Anything to watch out for when opening the small motor?

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 18:17:09 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANhzkeMM6pufu7Zctquo7VZxqJF3RWmx2iQMh490CZp5JsdMvg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 20:15:24 -0400
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Thread-index: AQL+blmm7Rcq62fjs/C0YfxoJGVq9JcpKZwA
Subject: Re: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Leave well alone !!

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 6:11 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?

Working on a TR 3. Time to clean up in refurb the fan and heater. Fan was
quite tight and would not turn easily. I washed it with wd-40 vs brake
cleaner.  I put some drops of light machine oil on both ends.

It now spins like a champ and quite silent. Should I open it up and grease
it? Anything to watch out for when opening the small motor?

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 0:56:41 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?
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---- Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Working on a TR 3. Time to clean up in refurb the fan and heater. Fan was
> quite tight and would not turn easily. I washed it with wd-40 vs brake
> cleaner.  I put some drops of light machine oil on both ends.
> 
> It now spins like a champ and quite silent. Should I open it up and grease
> it? Anything to watch out for when opening the small motor?

It's probably fine, but if I were going to rely on it for heat, I would probably open it up and re-soak the bushings in engine oil.

It's been a long time (no heater in the last two TRs), but I don't recall anything being particularly tricky.  Like most motors, there are some wires that you have to be careful not to over-stretch while disassembling the motor.  Long time ago, I even re-wound one successfully.  

Well, at least the motor ran faster afterwards, can't say it really put out any more heat.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANhzkeMM6pufu7Zctquo7VZxqJF3RWmx2iQMh490CZp5JsdMvg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 20:28:45 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6S8lLYXkGFzHKnQtufidPMlcohsQAGwiOQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like you have done it, if everything is tight and no strange noises
you should be OK.
Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2013 5:11 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?

Working on a TR 3. Time to clean up in refurb the fan and heater. Fan was
quite tight and would not turn easily. I washed it with wd-40 vs brake
cleaner.  I put some drops of light machine oil on both ends.

It now spins like a champ and quite silent. Should I open it up and grease
it? Anything to watch out for when opening the small motor?

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug  6 22:06:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2013 00:01:26 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20130807005641.Q6Y23.48321.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
Subject: Re: [TR] Any gotchas on tr3 fan motor?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 8/6/2013 8:56 PM, Randall wrote:
> It's been a long time (no heater in the last two TRs), but I don't recall anything being particularly tricky.  Like most motors, there are some wires that you have to be careful not to over-stretch while disassembling the motor.  Long time ago, I even re-wound one successfully.
>
> Well, at least the motor ran faster afterwards, can't say it really put out any more heat.

If the motor didn't put out more heat, I'd call that a success...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 18:34:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] speaking of tr-3 fan motors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Speaking of tr-3 fan motors, I have one I'd be willing to sell if anyone is
interested.  I can check to see if it spins when hooked up to a battery ect.
if anyone is interested.
thanks
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 18:40:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] backfire problem solved!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a FYI note on the backfire problem I had on the newly restored tr-3.  I
found the brown wire attached to the firewall-mounted starter solenoid was
basically off.  But it was mostly touching the connection (spade) so the car
would run.  Abrupt acceleration apparently moved the spade away from it's
connection briefly which caused a backfire.  At highway speed the underhood
drafts also caused surging at times.  A seemingly complicated problem solved
by chance discovery.  Awesome!  Probably the simplest fix I've found during
the total restoration!!
God Bless!
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug  7 20:38:58 2013
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From: Home Consolidated <triumphs@consolidated.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 21:38:12 -0500
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Sabra
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Does anyone know anything about the Sabra. It was an Israeli sports car built
in the early 1960's. At one time the company was owned by Triumph, but I think
this one was based on the Reliant.  It's a fiberglass body and looks to have
Ford in line four.  The manufacture looks to be Autocar.

Just scheming :-)

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 07:31:32 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Sabra
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

At least it wasn't the Reliant Robin.

A quick Internet search turns up this:
http://www.sporting-reliants.com/Sabra.htm
And this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autocars_Co.

Dave

In a message dated 8/7/2013 9:38:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
triumphs@consolidated.net writes: 
> Does anyone know anything about the Sabra. It was an Israeli sports car 
> built
> in the early 1960's. At one time the company was owned by Triumph, but I 
> think
> this one was based on the Reliant.  It's a fiberglass body and looks to 
> have
> Ford in line four.  The manufacture looks to be Autocar.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 20:02:45 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6UrOulUle/syhmQBWltIjoagFRyg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Tri-Metal vs Bi-Metal Engine Bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What's the advantage of each? I understand Tri-Metals are harder, but I'm
not sure if that's a good thing or not. 

In my mind, harder means longer lasting, but the offset is an perfect fit
when first installed, and potentially more wear on the crankshaft journals.

Softer bearings means they can adapt more easily initially, but wear quicker
and take the abuse rather than the journals.

Am I missing something?

 

Getting ready to rebuild my TR4A engine and order parts.

Johnnie

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  9 10:07:16 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: =?WINDOWS-1252?Q?=93triumphs_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 12:06:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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I am getting ready to pull the engine and trans/OD from my TR4. I may  
be able to borrow a crane/hoist from a garage, but I have been looking  
at the Harbor Freight 1 ton which I can get for $99 with a coupon!  
However, (you saw this coming) the maximum extension of the boom is  
claimed to be 50" but that is the total boom length. The actual  
distance from the fulcrum to the hook is about 38" and that is 500  
lbs. From the center of the valve cover to the front bumper is 36".  
The engine is stripped except for the head and that could come off  
too. So the ability of this lift to do the job seems iffy.

Does anyone have experience with the HF 1 ton crane

http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-crane-1-ton-capacity-foldable-69512.html

Thanks,
Allen

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  9 10:34:15 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Allen Hess'" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>,
	=?us-ascii?Q?'=22triumphs_list=22'?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 09:34:13 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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> Does anyone have experience with the HF 1 ton crane

Why not pony up the extra $40 and get the two ton version?  It has another
7" or so of reach (on the 1/2 ton setting).

I have the non-folding 2-ton variant (which they apparently no longer carry)
and it's worked well for me for about 10 years now.  Only caveat is that the
bolts supplied as pivots for the hydraulic cylinder were too soft, and had
to be replaced.  Since I disassemble it for storage and transport, I used
common trailer hitch pins, which seem to work fine.

Worth noting, perhaps, that your front bumper will be down low but the
fulcrum is way up high.  It won't matter if the fulcrum is over the front
bumper.

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  9 10:50:48 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Allen Hess'" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>,
	=?us-ascii?Q?'=22triumphs_list=22'?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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Get the bigger one - much more flexible and not such a huge added cost.  It
folds up and takes up about 8 square feet of garage space.

I've had mine for 10 years and it has seen heavy use from me, friends and
club members.

1001 uses and still counting - moving pallets, putting cars chassis on
trailers, pulling stumps, gantry crane in back of pickup truck, you name it.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 09:55:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steven Benford Jr <sbracing@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	"allenhess@mgcarclub.com" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have Uncle Jacks hoist plans if you want to build your own.B  

Sent from
Yahoo! Mail on Android

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	<BAY173-DS8F225B59DF96E4B68F85EC6580@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 09:55:35 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A local club member has a great (but big) hoist.  His policy:  he will lend
it to club members but they have to keep it until he tells them to return
it (or deliver it elsewhere).  Good system.

Geo


On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 9:45 AM, Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Get the bigger one - much more flexible and not such a huge added cost.  It
> folds up and takes up about 8 square feet of garage space.
>
> I've had mine for 10 years and it has seen heavy use from me, friends and
> club members.
>
> 1001 uses and still counting - moving pallets, putting cars chassis on
> trailers, pulling stumps, gantry crane in back of pickup truck, you name
> it.
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 12:13:33 -0500
To: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>,=?iso-8859-1?Q?=93triumphs?=
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <B7C7D975-D3F5-4954-88DA-081F576B249F@mgcarclub.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I briefly thought about digging my hoist out and measuring - I can 
probably do that Sunday if you still need a measurement.  But, I can 
tell you that you'll need the hook near the rear of the head for 
portions of the lift.  You'll need a device to move the pivot point 
(forget what they are called) to be able to change the center of 
gravity and pivot the engine / tranny assembly under the hook.

My hoist is an el-cheapo 2 ton unit, and I have to use full boom 
extension and that seems like it's barely long enough but there is at 
least an inch or three between hoist and front valance - and my race 
car doesn't have a front bumper.

There are some shots of the removal process here
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild.htm
I don't have a good shot showing the actual clearance between the 
hoist and the front of the car though (angle is wrong)

Tony Drews

At 11:06 AM 8/9/2013, Allen Hess wrote:
>I am getting ready to pull the engine and trans/OD from my TR4. I may
>be able to borrow a crane/hoist from a garage, but I have been looking
>at the Harbor Freight 1 ton which I can get for $99 with a coupon!
>However, (you saw this coming) the maximum extension of the boom is
>claimed to be 50" but that is the total boom length. The actual
>distance from the fulcrum to the hook is about 38" and that is 500
>lbs. From the center of the valve cover to the front bumper is 36".
>The engine is stripped except for the head and that could come off
>too. So the ability of this lift to do the job seems iffy.
>
>Does anyone have experience with the HF 1 ton crane
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-crane-1-ton-capacity-foldable-69512.html
>
>Thanks,
>Allen
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug  9 12:13:33 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=93triumphs_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 14:13:14 -0400
References: <B7C7D975-D3F5-4954-88DA-081F576B249F@mgcarclub.com>
	<201308091314272.SM204976@pascal.junkemailfilter.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

No need to measure--the 2nd picture in the 3rd row illustrates my  
concern about boom length exactly. I think the shorter boom length of  
the one ton could be a problem. Thanks for all the replies so far.

Allen
On Aug 9, 2013, at 1:13 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

> I briefly thought about digging my hoist out and measuring - I can  
> probably do that Sunday if you still need a measurement.  But, I can  
> tell you that you'll need the hook near the rear of the head for  
> portions of the lift.  You'll need a device to move the pivot point  
> (forget what they are called) to be able to change the center of  
> gravity and pivot the engine / tranny assembly under the hook.
>
> My hoist is an el-cheapo 2 ton unit, and I have to use full boom  
> extension and that seems like it's barely long enough but there is  
> at least an inch or three between hoist and front valance - and my  
> race car doesn't have a front bumper.
>
> There are some shots of the removal process here
> http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild.htm
> I don't have a good shot showing the actual clearance between the  
> hoist and the front of the car though (angle is wrong)
>
> Tony Drews
>
> At 11:06 AM 8/9/2013, Allen Hess wrote:
>> I am getting ready to pull the engine and trans/OD from my TR4. I may
>> be able to borrow a crane/hoist from a garage, but I have been  
>> looking
>> at the Harbor Freight 1 ton which I can get for $99 with a coupon!
>> However, (you saw this coming) the maximum extension of the boom is
>> claimed to be 50" but that is the total boom length. The actual
>> distance from the fulcrum to the hook is about 38" and that is 500
>> lbs. From the center of the valve cover to the front bumper is 36".
>> The engine is stripped except for the head and that could come off
>> too. So the ability of this lift to do the job seems iffy.
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with the HF 1 ton crane
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-crane-1-ton-capacity-foldable-69512.html
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Allen

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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 15:29:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Are TR2 and TR3 aprons the same except for the grill placement?
     I
recently saw a TR3A with what appeared to be a TR2 front apron (with the grill
set inside). Just curious if you can fit a TR2 grill inside a TR3 smallmouth
apron and make it look like a TR2.

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 16:42:56 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 3:29 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

> ...Just curious if you can fit a TR2 grill inside a TR3 smallmouth
> apron and make it look like a TR2.



I believe so -- in fact the opposite (making a TR2 look like a TR3 or 3A)
was sometimes done as an 'update' back in the day.  Possibly by the same
guy who modified a long door into a short door that was on ebay awhile back.

You would at least need a different hand crank and possibly some other
adaption for the front crank support which was different on the early
aprons.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 10 19:17:35 2013
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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 21:17:06 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep. You can do it. I'm biased, but I love the air intake look of the tr2
front end.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 10 19:34:37 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 18:34:30 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6WMJHbgg0XrGwSTCu1t9qCWLATOgAAg/aw
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Yep. You can do it. I'm biased, but I love the air intake 
> look of the tr2 front end.

But didn't the TR2 grille mount to tabs on the front apron, that aren't
present on TR3 aprons?

BTW, if anyone knows of a TR3 front apron for sale in good condition, my
insurance company may be interested.  Some idiot in a gigantic pickup truck
decided to back into me last night.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<3E.B6.09254.91AE6025@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 07:33:32 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Not a great picture, but here is a link to a pic from the underside of the
apron.  I also have a pic of a TR3 with a TR2 apron from the Waynesboro, VA
car show last year if I can find it, I'll post it.  (great little car show
by the way)

http://tinyurl.com/la3lxhx

I'm not sure if the TR3 apron is like this - but the TR2 has a flange all
the way round the grill opening and speed nuts are located on the flange to
mount the grille. If they are lacking, I can't see it being too difficult
to spot weld a few tabs as Randall noted.   I can get a better pic later
today.   Was in hurry.   The TR2 is parked above the TR4, so when I pulled
the oil catch pan to take the pic, I had to hurry before it dripped on the
TR4...  I also noticed that my center brace for the front apron lost it's
connection to the frame....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 07:54:11 2013
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 09:52:20 -0400
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <CANhzkeP-zmv6N3_V04AHnR2_3XGYp=4mn0ZJYQOLxWvXPeO8RA@mail.gmail.com>
	<3E.B6.09254.91AE6025@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<CANhzkeOo_o2+qWCkgcM-nqP7JHOaMHfaVsGAm0zP8yxqwzJ0eg@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My TR3 has the flange, but no spped nuts on it. Since it was not mounted 
to the car when I bought it, I can't say if it's the original part. It 
did have the correct holes for mounting the grill and surround trim.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 8/11/2013 7:33 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> Not a great picture, but here is a link to a pic from the underside of the
> apron.  I also have a pic of a TR3 with a TR2 apron from the Waynesboro, VA
> car show last year if I can find it, I'll post it.  (great little car show
> by the way)
>
> http://tinyurl.com/la3lxhx
>
> I'm not sure if the TR3 apron is like this - but the TR2 has a flange all
> the way round the grill opening and speed nuts are located on the flange to
> mount the grille. If they are lacking, I can't see it being too difficult
> to spot weld a few tabs as Randall noted.   I can get a better pic later
> today.   Was in hurry.   The TR2 is parked above the TR4, so when I pulled
> the oil catch pan to take the pic, I had to hurry before it dripped on the
> TR4...  I also noticed that my center brace for the front apron lost it's
> connection to the frame....
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 10:12:43 2013
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From: "Paul Willoughby" <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>
To: "Allen Hess" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>,
	=?iso-8859-1?Q?=22triumphs_list=22?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <B7C7D975-D3F5-4954-88DA-081F576B249F@mgcarclub.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 09:03:22 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I went a different route.  I got rid of my bulky crane/hoist and bought a 
harbor freight 800 lb electric hoist/wench for $69 (on sale).  I am lucky 
enough to have a twelve inch exposed beam in my garage for mounting.  I 
haven't pulled a TR engine, but it has worked great on Ford V8's.

http://s1309.photobucket.com/user/TR3Paul/media/HoistInstalledCloseup_zps369922c3.jpg.html

http://s1309.photobucket.com/user/TR3Paul/media/HoistInstalled4_zps0fdbe18d.jpg.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: ""triumphs list"" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 9:06 AM
Subject: [TR] TR4 engine hoist


I am getting ready to pull the engine and trans/OD from my TR4. I may
be able to borrow a crane/hoist from a garage, but I have been looking
at the Harbor Freight 1 ton which I can get for $99 with a coupon!
However, (you saw this coming) the maximum extension of the boom is
claimed to be 50" but that is the total boom length. The actual
distance from the fulcrum to the hook is about 38" and that is 500
lbs. From the center of the valve cover to the front bumper is 36".
The engine is stripped except for the head and that could come off
too. So the ability of this lift to do the job seems iffy.

Does anyone have experience with the HF 1 ton crane

http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-crane-1-ton-capacity-foldable-69512.html

Thanks,
Allen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/paulwillou@socal.rr.com


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3211/6569 - Release Date: 08/11/13

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of HoistInstalledCloseup.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of HoistInstalled4.JPG]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<F67E76ED80A246E198163C61A7D6E033@paulal73q2sjay>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 09:20:37 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Paul Willoughby <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Aug 11, 2013 at 9:03 AM, Paul Willoughby <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>wrote:

> ...I haven't pulled a TR engine, but it has worked great on Ford V8's.



Though, as I recall, your 'TR' engine *is* a V8!

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 10:59:12 2013
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From: "Paul Willoughby" <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <B7C7D975-D3F5-4954-88DA-081F576B249F@mgcarclub.com><F67E76ED80A246E198163C61A7D6E033@paulal73q2sjay>
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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 09:32:11 -0700
Cc: triumphs list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Guilty as charged.  ha ha
For the record, I hereby amend my testimony to:
 "It has worked great to install a Ford V8 into a TR3 - multiple times!"

----- Original Message -----
From: Geo Hahn
To: Paul Willoughby
Cc: triumphs list
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist


On Sun, Aug 11, 2013 at 9:03 AM, Paul Willoughby <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>
wrote:

  ...I haven't pulled a TR engine, but it has worked great on Ford V8's.


Though, as I recall, your 'TR' engine is a V8!

Geo


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3211/6569 - Release Date: 08/11/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 11:04:19 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "\"triumphs list\"" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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	<F67E76ED80A246E198163C61A7D6E033@paulal73q2sjay>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 11:57:52 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist
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I'm just going to add here - rather than chains, tie down straps work really 
well in hoisting an engine.  don't scratch, are infinitely adjustable, and 
store in a much smaller space.  just be sure to get your weight capacity 
right.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul Willoughby
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2013 11:03 AM
To: Allen Hess ; "triumphs list"
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 engine hoist 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 13:58:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

maybe that was my car. was it bright yellow by chance?
my car 58 TR3 TS41366L
is a TR3A.
I took a TR3 grill and welded up the little holes for the TR3
grill.
then I put the TR2 chrome cast grill on the back and there I have it. a
TR2 look-a-like.
 
everything fit just like it was supposed to.
 
 

From:
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 3:29 PM
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons


    Are
TR2 and TR3 aprons the same except for the grill placement?
    I
recently saw
a TR3A with what appeared to be a TR2 front apron (with the grill
set inside).
Just curious if you can fit a TR2 grill inside a TR3 smallmouth
apron and make
it look like a TR2.

    Bill in Tehachapi

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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 19:57:29 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac6W7bsgxMA7kb3XSUGpZlKbsni7YA==
Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph Hardware Catalog
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I happened to be away from home today and needed to find out the length of a
bolt for the '3 project.

 

Did a google search and found:

http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/catalogue/appendix.html&category=
hardware&xsl=catalogue.xsl 

 

(I tried tinyurl but the site was down)

 

The pdf on my computer is ok but you can actually read the sizes on this
site.   

Enjoy

NFI

 

Carl

1961 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 11 19:53:17 2013
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	<1376254715.22305.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 21:48:43 -0400
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes - I believe it was yellow.  Besides - if you were at Waynesboro last
year - you'd be the only TR3 with a TR2 grille!   As I recall - that is
quite a car!

I plan to be back this year - hopefully with a few friends from the Triumph
Club of the Carolinas.

Chris


On Sun, Aug 11, 2013 at 4:58 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:

> maybe that was my car. was it bright yellow by chance?
> my car 58 TR3 TS41366L
> is a TR3A.
> I took a TR3 grill and welded up the little holes for the TR3
> grill.
> then I put the TR2 chrome cast grill on the back and there I have it. a
> TR2 look-a-like.
>
> everything fit just like it was supposed to.
>
>
>
> From:
> William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
> To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 3:29 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Aprons
>
>
>     Are
> TR2 and TR3 aprons the same except for the grill placement?
>     I
> recently saw
> a TR3A with what appeared to be a TR2 front apron (with the grill
> set inside).
> Just curious if you can fit a TR2 grill inside a TR3 smallmouth
> apron and make
> it look like a TR2.
>
>     Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 11:11:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: john doe <rccpl1@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr6 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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There's a tr6 for sale on ebay where its description says its a disaster from super storm sandy I know i''''''''''''ve seen this car before its in the ny area anyone know who the po is I want to ask a few questions before I bid

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 13:17:27 2013
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:15:11 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: john doe <rccpl1@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For the curious:  TR6 from
Sandy<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR-6-Base-Convertible-2-Door-1976-Triumph-TR6-Base-Convertible-2-Door-2-5L-/111140606220?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19e07f110c>

Mr Doe --

I may have a jaded view of human nature but when a listing says "WE DID NOT
TRY TO START THE CAR" I assume that it does not run or has significant
issues.

Guess it would matter greatly whether it was flooded with fresh water or
salt water though my impression of Sandy from 2000 miles away is that the
latter is likely the case.

Geo






On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 11:11 AM, john doe <rccpl1@yahoo.com> wrote:

> There's a tr6 for sale on ebay where its description says its a disaster
> from super storm sandy I know i''''''''''''ve seen this car before its in
> the ny area anyone know who the po is I want to ask a few questions before
> I bid
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 16:32:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] no messages last 3-4 days
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

wondering if the list is down?
have received no messages last several days

gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 17:51:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 17:50:15 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:22.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1376350367.29219.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] no messages last 3-4 days
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Gary Nafziger wrote:
> wondering if the list is down?
> have received no messages last several days
>
>

If you check the archives ( link below ) you'll see that there have indeed
been messages to the list over the weekend.

I'll refrain from personal comments regarding yahoo mail.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 18:04:55 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 19:59:43 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac6Xt16wQsJjHM1oSOaqvhKrNUXesw==
Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues
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Everything buttoned up and ready to go but I have a weeping leak at the O/D
adaptor plate.  probably a couple oz. in a week.  Just enough to christen
the garage floor if I hadn't put down a catch pan.   Tightened all bolts -
no joy.   I really don't want to pull it, but....

 

any ideas?

 

thanks

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 18:34:24 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1376331067.86893.YahooMailNeo@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bG7=BVziycGd4nEasFkMgdTh_P2zi2Qtpnd9WS56QV5Hg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 19:26:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I see a lot of rust in a lot of places.  the interior looks to me like its 
been flooded.  the engine is all rust.  I think its already bid up too high.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 2:15 PM
To: john doe
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr6 for sale

For the curious:  TR6 from
Sandy<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR-6-Base-Convertible-2-Door-1976-Triumph-TR6-Base-Convertible-2-Door-2-5L-/111140606220?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19e07f110c>

Mr Doe --

I may have a jaded view of human nature but when a listing says "WE DID NOT
TRY TO START THE CAR" I assume that it does not run or has significant
issues.

Guess it would matter greatly whether it was flooded with fresh water or
salt water though my impression of Sandy from 2000 miles away is that the
latter is likely the case.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 18:34:53 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>,	"''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006801ce97b8$046297f0$0d27c7d0$@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 20:29:05 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

:-(... no way around it short of smearing a crap load of silicone all over 
it...and sooner than later it'll seep out around it anyway

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 7:59 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues


> Everything buttoned up and ready to go but I have a weeping leak at the 
> O/D
> adaptor plate.  probably a couple oz. in a week.  Just enough to christen
> the garage floor if I hadn't put down a catch pan.   Tightened all bolts -
> no joy.   I really don't want to pull it, but....
>
>
>
> any ideas?
>
>
>
> thanks
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 18:42:55 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 18:42:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Filing chromed metal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,

Question b whatbs the safest way to trim metal around a bolt hole through
a flat chromed part?

I purchased a new bumper bar for the TR4A.  The bolt holes for mounting the
brackets to the bumper bar are not the same shape as the bolt heads, which
have 2 flats to hold the bolt from turning.  Either I file the hole, or the
bolt head.  Mechanically itbs the hole that should be improved but I donbt
want to risk creating a long-term corrosion spot.  thanks for any advice.

Cliff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 19:21:13 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>, "list Triumph"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <19AB8C0305F44B1881F03CF7902FE61A@Shemp>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 21:15:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Filing chromed metal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If it's a matter of reducing a square shank under the bolt head...to fit the 
chromed part hole, I'd grind the bolt.
BUT.... the bare metal of the ground bolt can start rusting and effect the 
chrome bumper part.
Same goes for the reverse. Enlarging the part hole to match the bolt leaves 
the edge of the metal exposed.
A dab of paint can protect the chromed part.... but as grand dad always 
said...
If you must, ALWAYS modify the cheapest most readily replaceable part first.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 8:42 PM
Subject: [TR] Filing chromed metal


> Listers,
>
> Question b whatbs the safest way to trim metal around a bolt hole 
> through
> a flat chromed part?
>
> I purchased a new bumper bar for the TR4A.  The bolt holes for mounting 
> the
> brackets to the bumper bar are not the same shape as the bolt heads, which
> have 2 flats to hold the bolt from turning.  Either I file the hole, or 
> the
> bolt head.  Mechanically itbs the hole that should be improved but I 
> donbt
> want to risk creating a long-term corrosion spot.  thanks for any advice.
>
> Cliff
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 21:39:05 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 20:38:15 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6X1orN6Sgo0UyfSCWHktj5X1dc3g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Many years ago there was a thread about replacement light bulbs for the dash
gauges. I searched the archives but I didn't find anything that looked
familiar. The bulbs were LEDs, not incandescent, as I recall. The folks who
did it swore by it.

Anybody do this change and know what bulb numbers they were?

Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 22:12:17 2013
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 23:01:49 -0500
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net,"''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <006801ce97b8$046297f0$0d27c7d0$@verizon.net>
	{sentby:smtp auth 50.83.131.11 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the OD was apart, it's possible that the safety wire is in a spot 
where it interferes with the seal.

Tony D

At 06:59 PM 8/12/2013, CFM-TR wrote:
>Everything buttoned up and ready to go but I have a weeping leak at the O/D
>adaptor plate.  probably a couple oz. in a week.  Just enough to christen
>the garage floor if I hadn't put down a catch pan.   Tightened all bolts -
>no joy.   I really don't want to pull it, but....
>
>
>
>any ideas?
>
>
>
>thanks
>
>Carl
>
>1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
>Tampa, Florida
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 12 22:25:45 2013
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Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 21:24:49 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: sujit roy <sujitroy@yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] rear lights parts do other triumph use these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Im sorting out a pair of rear lights on a Triumph and am wondering if
other triumphs beside the stag have these things in the rear lights. They
are the reflector parts which where once silver lined.

As you can see one is melted.



http://s1087.photobucket.com/user/joyita_sujit/media/IMG_20130812_195515.jpg.
html



Thanks, Sujit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 03:58:47 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 05:57:57 -0400
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <CANLCLaGAYKwzqw3Z11BFfS=ahLOtcVo9oW=Fih1P203+6L8gsw@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130620
	Thunderbird/17.0.7
Subject: Re: [TR] rear lights parts do other triumph use these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

These are unique to the Stag, although some other cars use similar parts.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 8/13/2013 12:24 AM, Sujit Roy wrote:
> Im sorting out a pair of rear lights on a Triumph and am wondering if
> other triumphs beside the stag have these things in the rear lights. They
> are the reflector parts which where once silver lined.
>
> As you can see one is melted.
>
>
>
> http://s1087.photobucket.com/user/joyita_sujit/media/IMG_20130812_195515.jpg.
> html
>
>
>
> Thanks, Sujit
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 04:29:35 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 06:29:08 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] rear lights parts do other triumph use these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My tr6 has similar reflectors.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 06:58:39 2013
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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 12:52:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You can try to use enough (Insert gasket sealer of your choice here) or
purchase a replacement adapter which is heavier, stiffer, more robustB  in an
attempt to alleviate the problem of the original design. Quantu mechanics
stocks them.



Ed Woods



----- Original Message -----


From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 7:59:43 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 O/D Transmission issues

Everything buttoned up and ready to go but I have a weeping leak at the O/D
adaptor plate. B probably a couple oz. in a week. B Just enough to christen
the garage floor if I hadn't put down a catch pan. B  Tightened all bolts -
no joy. B  I really don't want to pull it, but....

B 

any ideas?

B 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 09:06:21 2013
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 08:05:20 -0700
Thread-Topic: Brighter Dash Lights
Thread-Index: Ac6YNeRS84AQkOgIQxerZDdK/9IM8w==
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Subject: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know it's a little commercial, but you asked about where to get LED dash
lights.
We just added 170-970 for the screw in bulbs.  They cannot be used everywhere
- like in the red charging indicator - and they are not dimable.
But they are brighter.
We working on getting them on the web with pix, but not yet.

Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Pete Arakelian'" <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188BAEC4C02@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 10:35:19 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6YNeRS84AQkOgIQxerZDdK/9IM8wABBtNQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter,
That part number does not come up on your site using the search box.  Do you
have a projection for availability and costs?
Thx,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Arakelian
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:05 AM
To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights

I know it's a little commercial, but you asked about where to get LED dash
lights.
We just added 170-970 for the screw in bulbs.  They cannot be used
everywhere
- like in the red charging indicator - and they are not dimable.
But they are brighter.
We working on getting them on the web with pix, but not yet.

Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 10:57:01 2013
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	<CANhzkeOuhptX6z1jAUJcwe3M-yH77pWMZdt_xLjXjLo=z_4uqw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:51:25 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] rear lights parts do other triumph use these?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris, are these parts available new from any suppliers?

Sujit


On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 3:29 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> My tr6 has similar reflectors.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag@gmail.com
>



-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 13:16:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] emails last 3-4 days
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok found list messages in my spam folder.  Dunno why I didn't think of that
before.
think I have it solved
thanks!
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 17:42:56 2013
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From: "Tim Tucker" <timtucker@comcast.net>
To: "'John Finlayson'" <john_finlayson@telus.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <A726B3DD9A024EEA8516A18E392C29F1@JohnPC>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 19:40:53 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I found this:
http://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/forum/index.php?topic=1052.0

hope it helps.  I have a 5BTRP
Tim

	
>Re: Triumph Bendix Radio
>< Reply #2 on: October 26, 2010, 02:16:34 PM >
>Thanks to all. Problem solved. Polarity switch position is UP for positive
ground. First thing I did was mark the case so it's never in doubt.
>
>John Finlayson
>'62 TR4







-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Finlayson
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2010 6:58 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Triumph Bendix Radio

I have a 1967 Triumph radio, manufactured by Bendix. The model number is
7BTRX. On the left side of the case near the rear is a polarity switch. Does
anyone know which way the switch should be set for positive ground, up or
down? There is no indication on the radio which way to set it and I don't
want to apply power till I know which way to set it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
John Finlayson
_______________________________________________
Triumphs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timtucker@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 20:48:46 2013
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	Aug 2013 02:48:31 +0000
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Pete Arakelian'" <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188BAEC4C02@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 19:48:23 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6YNeRS84AQkOgIQxerZDdK/9IM8wAYoiiQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm looking for a replacement for Moss 171-000. I don't find that on your
website, nor the 170-970.
Thanks
Johnnie

> 
> I know it's a little commercial, but you asked about where to get LED
> dash lights.
> We just added 170-970 for the screw in bulbs.  They cannot be used
> everywhere
> - like in the red charging indicator - and they are not dimable.
> But they are brighter.
> We working on getting them on the web with pix, but not yet.
> 
> Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 21:06:39 2013
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	Aug 2013 03:06:28 +0000
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001ce97d6$8b6e72f0$a24b58d0$@rr.com>
	<000501ce97e5$904d67e0$b0e837a0$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 20:06:22 -0700
Thread-Index: AQG2RZgSSjwlkrk4xPfRXxkJd1n4nZnDP6mwgAFouuA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmmm. The only dash lights I find at Litezupp are green ones. I'm driving a
Triumph, not a Honda Civic.
Johnnie

> 
> Check out Litezupp http://www.litezupp.com/
> 
> Carl
> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
> Tampa, FL
> 
> 
> Many years ago there was a thread about replacement light bulbs for the
> dash gauges. I searched the archives but I didn't find anything that
> looked familiar. The bulbs were LEDs, not incandescent, as I recall.
> The folks who did it swore by it.
> 
> Anybody do this change and know what bulb numbers they were?
> 
> Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 22:25:12 2013
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	Aug 2013 04:24:44 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001ce97d6$8b6e72f0$a24b58d0$@rr.com><000501ce97e5$904d67e0$b0e837a0$@verizon.net>
	<004601ce989b$41985c20$c4c91460$@rr.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 23:24:45 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The lucas dash lights in old TRs, MGs, and Healeys, as well as probably most 
other british stuff from the 50s and 60s, use what is called an E10 screw 
base, if you google E10 LED you will get some options like this:

http://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-base-auto-led-lights.aspx

http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm

Couple things to remember, most if not all LEDs are polarity sensitive, if 
made for cars they will probably be negative, ground, they are also more 
directional, and a flashlight or spotlight type LED may not give you the 
soft even glow you are looking for for dash lights, but they make multiple 
light leds that shine in different directions, as well as lenses that 
diffuse the light, also the shape may differ and the wider or longer ones 
will probably not fit in your instrument light housing, I went with some 
higher watt incandescents from LBCARCO for the dash lights, and an LED for 
my turn signal indicator, which I could never see on a bright sunny day 
before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs  (before)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero   (after)

Greg Lemon



--------------------------------------------------
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:06 PM
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights

> Hmmm. The only dash lights I find at Litezupp are green ones. I'm driving 
> a
> Triumph, not a Honda Civic.
> Johnnie
>
>>
>> Check out Litezupp http://www.litezupp.com/
>>
>> Carl
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>> Tampa, FL
>>
>>
>> Many years ago there was a thread about replacement light bulbs for the
>> dash gauges. I searched the archives but I didn't find anything that
>> looked familiar. The bulbs were LEDs, not incandescent, as I recall.
>> The folks who did it swore by it.
>>
>> Anybody do this change and know what bulb numbers they were?
>>
>> Johnnie
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 22:40:44 2013
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	Aug 2013 04:40:04 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001ce97d6$8b6e72f0$a24b58d0$@rr.com><000501ce97e5$904d67e0$b0e837a0$@verizon.net><004601ce989b$41985c20$c4c91460$@rr.com>
	<629F638BDA7A4DE38869E219DAC911E0@livingroompc>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 23:40:05 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

PS, with such riveting stuff on my youtube channel I cannot fathom why I am 
not getting millions of hits and royalties yet..........

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:24 PM
To: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights

> The lucas dash lights in old TRs, MGs, and Healeys, as well as probably 
> most other british stuff from the 50s and 60s, use what is called an E10 
> screw base, if you google E10 LED you will get some options like this:
>
> http://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-base-auto-led-lights.aspx
>
> http://autolumination.com/otherleds.htm
>
> Couple things to remember, most if not all LEDs are polarity sensitive, if 
> made for cars they will probably be negative, ground, they are also more 
> directional, and a flashlight or spotlight type LED may not give you the 
> soft even glow you are looking for for dash lights, but they make multiple 
> light leds that shine in different directions, as well as lenses that 
> diffuse the light, also the shape may differ and the wider or longer ones 
> will probably not fit in your instrument light housing, I went with some 
> higher watt incandescents from LBCARCO for the dash lights, and an LED for 
> my turn signal indicator, which I could never see on a bright sunny day 
> before.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3om56PrC9Rs  (before)
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B80m6kPyero   (after)
>
> Greg Lemon
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:06 PM
> To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
>
>> Hmmm. The only dash lights I find at Litezupp are green ones. I'm driving 
>> a
>> Triumph, not a Honda Civic.
>> Johnnie
>>
>>>
>>> Check out Litezupp http://www.litezupp.com/
>>>
>>> Carl
>>> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>>> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>>> Tampa, FL
>>>
>>>
>>> Many years ago there was a thread about replacement light bulbs for the
>>> dash gauges. I searched the archives but I didn't find anything that
>>> looked familiar. The bulbs were LEDs, not incandescent, as I recall.
>>> The folks who did it swore by it.
>>>
>>> Anybody do this change and know what bulb numbers they were?
>>>
>>> Johnnie
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 13 22:49:35 2013
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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 16:44:48 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac6YqQG42E1qGjRdTMqlsPIxeT47Xg==
Subject: [TR] Car has swollen
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My 1962 TR4 has swollen to almost three times its size.
Probably because I have taken it apart to fix a niggling chassis problem.
My friend talked sense into me, he said now that you have gotten this far
you might as well go the whole hog and fix the chassis problem.
Everything is off except that I can't get the trunnion washers off the
trunnion splines.
The washers were new about 6 years ago and had to be drilled out to get them
to fit onto the splines without breaking the pin.
I can't get my puller on to them, so maybe heat or leverage.
Anyone else had this problem?
 
Jim and the TR4 in bits.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 06:45:58 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?SmltIFZhc3NpbGlhZGlz?="
	<jimstr4@gmail.com>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 07:42:16 -0500
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	9YOi07fkvxjTw==
Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Car_has_swollen?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like shipwrights disease.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car has swollen
Date: Tue, Aug 13, 2013 11:44 pm


My 1962 TR4 has swollen to almost three times its size.
Probably because I have taken it apart to fix a niggling chassis problem.
My friend talked sense into me, he said now that you have gotten this far
you might as well go the whole hog and fix the chassis problem.
Everything is off except that I can't get the trunnion washers off the
trunnion splines.
The washers were new about 6 years ago and had to be drilled out to get them
to fit onto the splines without breaking the pin.
I can't get my puller on to them, so maybe heat or leverage.
Anyone else had this problem?
 
Jim and the TR4 in bits.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 08:32:50 2013
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: 'John & Pat Donnelly' <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 07:32:01 -0700
Thread-Topic: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
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170-970 is not yet on the web - they just came in.
Art department is preparing for photos, etc...
For the time being you will need to call it in 800-MOSS-USA.

171-000, standard bulb, is on the web.  At least it came up when I entered the
part number this AM.

Peter

-----Original Message-----
From: John & Pat Donnelly [mailto:pdonnel1@san.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 7:48 PM
To: Pete Arakelian; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights

I'm looking for a replacement for Moss 171-000. I don't find that on your
website, nor the 170-970.
Thanks
Johnnie

>
> I know it's a little commercial, but you asked about where to get LED
> dash lights.
> We just added 170-970 for the screw in bulbs.  They cannot be used
> everywhere
> - like in the red charging indicator - and they are not dimable.
> But they are brighter.
> We working on getting them on the web with pix, but not yet.
>
> Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 10:53:17 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 09:50:15 -0700
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Crazy Tach
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I had to change the distributor on the 1970 TR6, car runs great but the
Tachometer went "Whacko" ! pulled the cable off the distributor, and can
easily turn the inner cable by hand b& anyone have any ideas??

Thanks for your time


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 13:15:15 2013
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:14:38 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>, William Pugh
  <anabil007@comcast.net>
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---- William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote: 
> I had to change the distributor on the 1970 TR6, car runs great but the
> Tachometer went "Whacko" ! pulled the cable off the distributor, and can
> easily turn the inner cable by hand b& anyone have any ideas??

First thing to check is that the inner cable isn't protruding too far.  Some cables are made wrong, or there might be something stuck in the hole inside your new dizzy.

Also look for oil contamination, and any damage to the inner cable.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 12:15:15 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Crazy Tach
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On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 9:50 AM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:

> I had to change the distributor on the 1970 TR6, car runs great but the
> Tachometer went "Whacko" ! pulled the cable off the distributor, and can
> easily turn the inner cable by hand b& anyone have any ideas??



You shouldn't turn by hand so it is probably either broken or dis-engaged.
You should be able to pull the inner cable out from the tach end and
inspect it.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 13:40:19 2013
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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:34:36 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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---- Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote: 

> First thing to check is that the inner cable isn't protruding too far. 

Just to be clear, I mean that the inner cable may be protruding too far at the tach end, with the other end attached to the dizzy.  Even if you can turn the result easily, there has to be absolutely no end force transmitted from the end of the inner cable to the shaft in the tach, or trouble will ensue.

I don't recall the recommended maximum protrusion offhand, something like 3/8" ?  Hopefully someone else has it, but if not I'll try to look it up tonight.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 13:40:47 2013
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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 07:40:02 +1200
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Subject: [TR] Car has swollen
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I'll try a chisel as suggested as well as borrowing large multi grip pliers
and heat as a last resort.
A reply from Spook sugested shipwrights disease, yes definitely.
It started with the engine needing reconditioning and then the engine bay
needing prettying up and then the tub needing repairing around the bulkhead,
then fix the chassis.
The chassis is in very good condition aside from around the left turret.
In the past I would have done it myself but I am in the middle of setting up
a  soft drink (soda) business and have decided that it would take me forever
to do myself.
The man fixing the chassis is a TR expert but does not have the time to do
the tub and there are very few panelbeaters in Welington New Zealand that
can do the old school type of panel work.
 
Jim and the TR4 in bits

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 12:44:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>
To: "\"\"triumphs@autox.team.net\"\"" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A SPEEDOMETER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 
>
>
>
> 
>>
>>
>>
>>   
>>>
>>>
>>>My speedometer will not go back to
zero after advancing past 20. When using a drill to test it will not advance
past 60mph and advances with jerking motion. Not the original as I replaced
the original. Purchased the car new in England in 1961 while stationed near
Coventry. Is there a way to tell if the speedometer is compatible with
overdrive? Is repair a DIY?
>>>Thanks much.
>>>Kenny01.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A SPEEDOMETER
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Is there a way to tell if the speedometer is compatible with
> overdrive?

Should be no difference.  The speedo calibration number changed for cars with 4.1 final drive, but contrary to many sources, the vast majority of cars with overdrive still had 3.7 gears (so the same speedo head as non-OD cars).

And even if the calibration number is wrong for your tires & final drive, it would only show up as a proportional error.  The unit would still return to 0 and rise above 60.

> Is repair a DIY?

Depends on how bad the internal damage is; and how adept you are at working with tiny gears and springs.  Tony Rhodes wrote a good article on the process, which you can download from
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/1967_TR4A_Tech.html

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 15:36:06 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?SmltIFZhc3NpbGlhZGlz?="
	<jimstr4@gmail.com>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 16:35:42 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Car_has_swollen?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Worry not.  Just work slow and steady, and it'll get done.  The pain of the restoration will pass, leaving only pride of accomplishment.
Besides, can't you walk over to Hobbiton and hire some hobbits?  
;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car has swollen
Date: Wed, Aug 14, 2013 2:40 pm


I'll try a chisel as suggested as well as borrowing large multi grip pliers
and heat as a last resort.
A reply from Spook sugested shipwrights disease, yes definitely.
It started with the engine needing reconditioning and then the engine bay
needing prettying up and then the tub needing repairing around the bulkhead,
then fix the chassis.
The chassis is in very good condition aside from around the left turret.
In the past I would have done it myself but I am in the middle of setting up
a  soft drink (soda) business and have decided that it would take me forever
to do myself.
The man fixing the chassis is a TR expert but does not have the time to do
the tub and there are very few panelbeaters in Welington New Zealand that
can do the old school type of panel work.
 
Jim and the TR4 in bits

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 14 22:07:16 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Pete Arakelian'" <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188BAEC4C02@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Brighter Dash Lights
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter,
Is the color of the LED white?
Johnnie

> 
> 170-970 is not yet on the web - they just came in.
> Art department is preparing for photos, etc...
> For the time being you will need to call it in 800-MOSS-USA.
> 
> 171-000, standard bulb, is on the web.  At least it came up when I
> entered the part number this AM.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a replacement for Moss 171-000. I don't find that on
> your website, nor the 170-970.
> Thanks
> Johnnie
> 
> >
> > I know it's a little commercial, but you asked about where to get LED
> > dash lights.
> > We just added 170-970 for the screw in bulbs.  They cannot be used
> > everywhere
> > - like in the red charging indicator - and they are not dimable.
> > But they are brighter.
> > We working on getting them on the web with pix, but not yet.
> >
> > Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 20:23:43 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac6ZkME7PDWNZJAvRlSDBN5WEFAWSQ==
Subject: [TR] Car has swollen
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to the list I have managed to remove the trunnion washers.
So on Sat morning I am heading North, 7 hour there and 7 back, to drop the
chassis off to the TR expert.
 
Progress at last.
 
Jim

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 03:02:09 2013
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From: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:00:56 +0100
Thread-Topic: voyeur for now
Thread-Index: Ac6ZlfQRQLhV+zE+R4KTShi4dkbkJA==
Accept-Language: en-US
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  VDF=10.130.61)
Subject: [TR] voyeur for now
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Hi List, well is has happened, last week my TR made the short sea trip across
to the UK where the bigger audience will ensure maximum exposure. It was
really a very difficult moment for me and I know in the bigger picture it is
only metal and leather but nevertheless after 16 years I felt entitled to some
emotional attachment. I am happy in the way Premium Classic Cars have looked
after both me and the TR, and it looks splendid on their site, have a look for
yourselves URL  http://www.premiumclassiccars.com/
I hope you don't mind if I stay on the list, quietly in the background, after
all it is a lifetime affliction, car or no car.
Thanks to all, you are all partly responsible for the car on that web site!
John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 05:50:50 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 07:50:34 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] voyeur for now
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It's rather like see one of your kids off to college, isn't it?  I say 
please stay on the list.  With all your experience you can help out some of us 
when we run into a problem you have already conquered.

Slainte

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 4:01:10 AM Central Daylight Time, 
JGILLIS@tcd.ie writes: 
> Hi List, well is has happened, last week my TR made the short sea trip 
> across
> to the UK where the bigger audience will ensure maximum exposure. It was
> really a very difficult moment for me and I know in the bigger picture it 
> is
> only metal and leather but nevertheless after 16 years I felt entitled to 
> some
> emotional attachment. I am happy in the way Premium Classic Cars have 
> looked
> after both me and the TR, and it looks splendid on their site, have a look 
> for
> yourselves URL  http://www.premiumclassiccars.com/
> I hope you don't mind if I stay on the list, quietly in the background, 
> after
> all it is a lifetime affliction, car or no car.
> Thanks to all, you are all partly responsible for the car on that web 
> site!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03E95AF6F121@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:13:41 -0500
To: John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie>
Cc: "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] voyeur for now
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

It's a beautiful car, the emotions are understandable. I hope you get your
price.  Maybe you'll have enough left to purchase a dependable everyday
Triumph, not as pretty but just as much fun.

All the best ,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2013, at 4:00 AM, John Gillis <JGILLIS@tcd.ie> wrote:

> Hi List, well is has happened, last week my TR made the short sea trip
across
> to the UK where the bigger audience will ensure maximum exposure. It was
> really a very difficult moment for me and I know in the bigger picture it
is
> only metal and leather but nevertheless after 16 years I felt entitled to
some
> emotional attachment. I am happy in the way Premium Classic Cars have
looked
> after both me and the TR, and it looks splendid on their site, have a look
for
> yourselves URL  http://www.premiumclassiccars.com/
> I hope you don't mind if I stay on the list, quietly in the background,
after
> all it is a lifetime affliction, car or no car.
> Thanks to all, you are all partly responsible for the car on that web site!
> John
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 11:15:28 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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I am trying to sort out the Vacuum lines on my recently acquired TR6.

The rear carb has vacuum ports at the top and bottom.  The front has none.
The distributor has a single port.

This doesn't match up with anything I see in either the manual or the moss
catalog.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 11:53:52 2013
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From: "Rick" <chandler.rick@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:53:42 -0700
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Subject: [TR]  Crazy Tach
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I had exactly the same experience a few years ago during my TR3A rebuild
with a new cable. These cables have a square key formed into each end of the
round cable which is designed to fit into the tach and drive, respectively.
This key is formed by a compression tool (many shops use a manual tool that
is wacked with a hammer) to create a square cross-section of 0.125" on a
side. The problem with my cable (in fact I went through 2 of them) was NOT
the key length but rather the cross-section, which was several thou
oversized and would not fit fully into the tach receptacle. I ground off a
bit on each side so that the key fit smoothly into the tach, which solved
the problem. Since then I found a local Brit motorcycle shop that had the
compression tool, and I run all of my new cables through him (they're all
oversized as purchased) for size adjustment. 

 

Rick in Seattle

 

1960 TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1972 Norton 750 Commando Combat

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 12:57:23 2013
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Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 18:55:39 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
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Subject: [TR] Trip to TRF Summer Party and Lotus Owners Gathering
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Trip to Lotus Owners Gathering.

Thursday.
Stopped in on The Roadster Factory Summer Party in Armagh PA on the way there. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt (and the dash plaque).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157634908275592/

Friday.
Fast touring at Watkins Glen. Lunch at the Glen Club. Shot some photos on track before rescuing a Seven that was broken by a rock in an infield road. Welcome party at hotel.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157634910376982/

Saturday.
Parked for the Panoramic Photo at Watkins Glen. Lunch at the Glen Club. Shot some photos on track again. Been there, done that, gut the two coffee mugs. Banquet at hotel in Corning.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157634920702374/

Sunday.
Horseheads NY: PAXed 6th overall at the Glen Region autocross (but the son of two Canadian National AutoSlalom Champions PAXed 1st in his Green and Yellow Elise). I therefore got a 2nd-place LOG trophy and a 2nd-place Glen Region trophy. Buffet at hotel in Corning.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157634932528381/with/9439445985/

Glen Region autocross results:
http://www.glen-scca.org/Solo/2013/Results20130804.asp
PAX results:
http://www.glen-scca.org/Solo/2013/PAX20130804.asp

Monday.
Drove the Lotus into Canada to view Niagara Falls. Stripped off the autocross statics, since I didn't need anything extra to have Customs ask about.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157635012510828/with/9460489495/

Tuesday.
On the way back home (and the previous Tuesday on the way to LOG), I shot some iPhone at this neat lodge I like in an Indiana state park.  Tiny room in historic section on the way to LOG; big room in the new horseshoe section on the way home.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157635012349806/

It was a great trip. The solo trips I took to LOGs in the past were shorter drives, Lake Geneva and Saint Louis. I was gone a week and half on this one.

Awards:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/9504930697/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/9507726624/




Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 13:01:56 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:01:49 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6Z2uo7x9Z9oNORTPiFgNCmFOPnYQADW2og
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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> I am trying to sort out the Vacuum lines on my recently acquired TR6.

Is this a restoration, or do you just want it to run good?

> The rear carb has vacuum ports at the top and bottom.  The 
> front has none.

Do you have carb numbers?  Sounds like the rear carb may have been modified,
but it might also be from another car.

The port that has vacuum at idle will be for vacuum retard; the one with
vacuum only with the throttle open will be for advance.  If the carbs are
off the car, then look at where the ports come out relative to the throttle
plate.  If you can see the port opening from the manifold side with the
throttle fully closed, that's a retard port.

> The distributor has a single port.

Advance or retard?  PI TR6 only had advance; later carbed TR6 only have
retard.

It will actually run fine if you just cap both carb lines and leave the
dizzy line open.  If you can hook up the advance, it will reduce fuel
consumption a bit (around 2-3 mpg), but no effect on idle or full power.
The vacuum retard only affects idle; but you may have to turn the idle rpm
down if it was set with the retard active.

Oh, and set the ignition timing to the 'static' value for your year.  The 4
ATDC figure is only for when the retard is connected and active (not
disabled by the TVS).  The books are amazingly unclear (aka flat wrong) on
this point as many of them say to disconnect the vacuum line, but that is
only for an advance vacuum line (which only early carbed TR6 should have).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 14:18:51 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 16:18:28 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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Going from memory here but I believe the bottom port is for the vacuum 
retard module. The top one can be used with the vacuum advance module if you had 
one or it can be used for the EGR valve.

Of course things changed from year to year on the TR6 so it would be 
helpful to know what model car you have.

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 12:15:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jagmog@hotmail.com writes: 
> I am trying to sort out the Vacuum lines on my recently acquired TR6.
> 
> The rear carb has vacuum ports at the top and bottom.  The front has none.
> The distributor has a single port.
> 
> This doesn't match up with anything I see in either the manual or the moss
> catalog.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 15 14:52:50 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <d3255.40cd9cb8.3f3e9194@cs.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 13:52:10 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Car was dispatched in Feb. 1971, CC62601L.

It was equipped at the dealer with air conditioning.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 1:18 PM
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question

Going from memory here but I believe the bottom port is for the vacuum
retard module. The top one can be used with the vacuum advance module if you
had one or it can be used for the EGR valve.

Of course things changed from year to year on the TR6 so it would be helpful
to know what model car you have.

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 12:15:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
jagmog@hotmail.com writes: 
> I am trying to sort out the Vacuum lines on my recently acquired TR6.
> 
> The rear carb has vacuum ports at the top and bottom.  The front has none.
> The distributor has a single port.
> 
> This doesn't match up with anything I see in either the manual or the 
> moss catalog.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 17:24:04 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The 71 may or may not have been equipped with a vacuum advance and if it 
was it would not have been connected.  But the 70 TR6 was equipped with both.  
At least that is my recollection.  So there may be some residual fittings 
that were not used but would make retrofitting easier.  My 71 model had both 
advance and retard modules but no port for the advance.  Retrofitting later 
model carbs fixed that problem.

In 1974 the engine was fitted with an EGR valve and that port could be used 
for the vacuum advance (if your distributor was so equipped).

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 3:52:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jagmog@hotmail.com writes: 
> Car was dispatched in Feb. 1971, CC62601L.
> 
> It was equipped at the dealer with air conditioning.

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http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=162

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 16 05:34:22 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 07:29:51 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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The answer, as I like to say, is "it depends."  That was the case on my 
original TR6 carbs but earlier and later model carbs did have both ports 
drilled and tapped (actually not tapped per se but with a tube pressed in).

But using the TR3 as a basis point is problematic.  They had different 
carbs and they didn't have to meet emissions.  Heck, even the TR6's varied 
enough to keep things confusing.

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 5:08:33 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> pardon my ignorance.
> if its anything like my TR3 only one of the two holes is live and is 
> tapped.
> no?
>  
>  
> Frank
> 
> 
> From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
> 
> 
> Car was dispatched in Feb. 1971, CC62601L.
> 
> It was equipped at the dealer with air conditioning.
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> Going from memory here but I believe the bottom port is for the vacuum
> retard module. The top one can be used with the vacuum advance module if 
> you
> had one or it can be used for the EGR valve.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 07:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net"
	<triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks Dave
I did know the 3 used SU's and the 6 used Zenith's.
had I been any
place close to home I could have lifted the bonnet on the 6 in the garage and
taken a look.
but that would have taken effort and wait until tomorrow.
Frank
________________________________
 From: "Dave1massey@cs.com"
<Dave1massey@cs.com>
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net 
Sent: Friday, August 16,
2013 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Vacuum Line Question
  

The answer, as I
like to say, is "it depends."  That was the case on my 
original TR6 carbs but
earlier and later model carbs did have both ports 
drilled and tapped
(actually not tapped per se but with a tube pressed in).

But using the TR3 as
a basis point is problematic.  They had different 
carbs and they didn't have
to meet emissions.  Heck, even the TR6's varied 
enough to keep things
confusing.

Dave

In a message dated 8/15/2013 5:08:33 PM Central Daylight
Time, 
yellowtr3@yahoo.com writes: 
> pardon my ignorance.
> if its anything
like my TR3 only one of the two holes is live and is 
> tapped.
> no?
>  
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
> From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
> 
> 
> Car was
dispatched in Feb. 1971, CC62601L.
> 
> It was equipped at the dealer with air
conditioning.
> 
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
> 
> 
>
-----Original Message-----
> 
> Going from memory here but I believe the
bottom port is for the vacuum
> retard module. The top one can be used with
the vacuum advance module if 
> you
> had one or it can be used for the EGR
valve.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 11:15:55 -0700
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Distributor drive gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone out there know the difference between the distributor drive gear TR6 on
a fuel injected car versus a carbureted car? Thanks JT

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 16 12:59:21 2013
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From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 11:53:56 -0700
To: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Distributor drive gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, there is a different housing so as to provide a dog for driving the pi
pump.  I can send pictures if you wnat


On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 11:15 AM, JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Anyone out there know the difference between the distributor drive gear
> TR6 on
> a fuel injected car versus a carbureted car? Thanks JT
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 20:54:16 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Distributor drive gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On the PI car, removing the dizzy didn't reveal the drive gear off the
camshaft but two lobes that engaged in the housing which also drove the fuel
metering unit.

Jonmac

From: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
>To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Friday, 16 August
2013, 19:15
>Subject: [TR] Distributor drive gear
>
>
>Anyone out there know
the difference between the distributor drive gear TR6 on
>a fuel injected car
versus a carbureted car? Thanks JT
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <520DB458.6000000@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 21:09:36 -0400
Thread-Index: AQG8cB+MkA4eyUMrHB1moI0+Mh230Zm87HYQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Day
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark - What a great reflection!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2013 1:11 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Interesting Day

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=162

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 05:18:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net\"\"\"" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from splined wire wheel holder but still won't budge. Hate to try Hub buster for fear of damage to axel. Hub is damaged now by use of three pronged remover.
Kenny 01

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 06:40:54 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 05:40:43 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I haven't used his service but I think Macy's
Garage<http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/services.htm>does hub
separations.

Yes, a bother and time-consuming to ship them off for this but it can be a
difficult task w/o the experience and specialized equipment.

Geo


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 5:18 AM, Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from splined wire wheel
> holder but still won't budge. Hate to try Hub buster for fear of damage to
> axel. Hub is damaged now by use of three pronged remover.
> Kenny 01
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Why are you removing the hub? 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 09:28:05 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Thomas Geoghan'" <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 08:27:38 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6bRGJS00CHD8tGTxKp4GKRAwrKpAAFxlEg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from 
> splined wire wheel holder but still won't budge. Hate to try 
> Hub buster for fear of damage to axel. Hub is damaged now by 
> use of three pronged remover.

This homemade tool looks like it would work well, if you can find the
materials:
http://tinyurl.com/mu6mcpj

I tried several lesser setups (including a wire wheel adapter with added
reinforcements).  What finally worked for me was to machine some heavy
(approx 1" thick) press plates to fit snugly behind the hub, with reliefs
for the studs; pump up 15-20 tons of force in the press (until the frame
started to bend), and then start banging on the axle with a BFH.  They all
popped apart after 5 or 6 blows.  I put a flat washer and regular nut on the
end of the axle, to help protect the threads and also keep the nut from
mangling the hub when it slams into it.  Might be safer to machine a little
sleeve that would fit into the end of the hub, so some of the load goes
against the shoulder of the axle, but I didn't do that (yet).

The end of this article
http://tinyurl.com/k9h7bzm
Includes a drawing of the Churchill tool.  Although the article was written
for a TR6, the tool is the same as the TR3 except you may need to machine a
relief to fit over the flanges on the studs.

Lots easier to just ship the axles to Mark Macy (as Geo suggested), but I'm
stubborn that way.  Herman van den Akker once told me that he will do them
too, but that was a lot of years ago, I don't know if he still does it or
not.  He created his own hydraulic version of the factory tool (naturally).

-- Randall 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 11:00:41 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: "'Thomas Geoghan'" <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1376741916.51311.YahooMailNeo@web181406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 09:59:34 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
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50 ton press and an oxy-acetylene torch.

 Have had to do it twice now - it goes off like a gun, so make sure you have
something soft under it to catch it.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

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From: William Smith <wsmith64@rcn.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 14:24:07 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend in Amagansett, NY is selling his red 1963? Austin-Healy 3000 mk3
Good shape inside and out runs and runs well has been garaged and well cared
for.
It is on display at V&V auto service center in Amagansett.
He is asking $75,000
At the moment i only have room for my '76 TR6, so I hope someone else can give
it a good home.

Will Smith

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 13:33:07 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 19:32:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,



Most often, contamination of the rear brakes on a TR3 is from diff oil past
worn axle seals, isn't it? Unless there's proof that it's grease, not oil, I'd
only replace the hub seals only B if I was replacing the hub bearings. And
when's the last time you had a TR3 axle bearing fail? Oh, I'm sure someone out
there has lost a bearing, but it's a rare occurrence, even on a 50 year old
TR.



Good info on hub removal, however, it's already in the "favorites" list.



Don't mean to be contrary. Just my opinion.



Ed Woods







----- Original Message -----


From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Thomas Geoghan" <stgeoghan@yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 8:40:43 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL

I haven't used his service but I think Macy's
Garage<http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/services.htm>does hub
separations.

Yes, a bother and time-consuming to ship them off for this but it can be a
difficult task w/o the experience and specialized equipment.

Geo


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 5:18 AM, Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from splined wire wheel
> holder but still won't budge. Hate to try Hub buster for fear of damage to
> axel. Hub is damaged now by use of three pronged remover.
> Kenny 01
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 15:23:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] "Here is a real gem."
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

no kidding.  30,000 original miles.  before you start salivating . . . .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barn-find-1958-Triumph-TR3-parts-project-30-00
0-miles-/251321375347?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a83ebda73

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 16:27:00 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6bhJ10wpStBPrDQxOE+WFY126ExAACiKNQ
Subject: [TR] FW: [Mg-t] OT: tr3 for sale
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Pass along from the MG list, I know nothing else.
NFI,
Bill

A friend really needs to sell his TR3. Car is good and price is right. B
Contact Peter at:B tr3_diddums@yahoo.com

Thanks for the OT space.

-rick
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII - the rectangle with rounded corners, just
like a BlackBerry.
______________________________________________

Mg-t@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 15:06:41 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] "Here is a real gem."
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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If someone wants a TR3A in the worst way -- this would be it.

G


On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 1:23 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> no kidding.  30,000 original miles.  before you start salivating . . . .
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barn-find-1958-Triumph-TR3-parts-project-30-00
> 0-miles-/251321375347?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a83ebda73
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
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I read the subject line and thought "what the heck is a Gold/Helium 3000?"




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: William Smith <wsmith64@rcn.com>


A friend in Amagansett, NY is selling his red 1963? Austin-Healy 3000 mk3
Good shape inside and out runs and runs well has been garaged and well cared
for.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1375480938.35768.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 15:17:35 -0700
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Subject: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been having this problem for awhile but it seems to be getting worse.
On Tuesday it was the worst; I drove to Carmel,CA, about 1 1/2 hours. It was
cool out in the morning and the car ran great. I'd already replaced points,
plug, condenser, and coil and rerouted the gas line and gas filter. Coming
home, the car started right up and ran well for the first 30 mins, then I
got out of the coastal fog and into the sun and an ambient temperature in
the 90's. Then the car started backfiring, popping, cracking and losing
power. All of this at highway speeds, no lights, no stops. If I backed off
the gas for a few seconds then gave it gas, it would run ok for a few
seconds and then start backfiring again. Engine temp and oil pressure were
normal. I nursed it home this way and parked it until the next day. I pulled
the plugs and the last 2 were black and oily. The front 2 looked good, it
looked like I had been running on 2 cylinders. 

I installed a heat shield I had ordered from TRF, removed the rear float
bowl, checked the float, cleaned the bowl and valve and checked the float
level. It fired right up, I then adjusted the carbs as it seems they were
running too lean. 

This morning I drove about 15 minutes in town for breakfast then about half
an hour on the highway to club gathering and it ran really great. Maybe half
an hour later I went to move it and it didn't want to start. When it finally
did, it was coughing and sputtering. Left the bonnet up for a bit, then it
started and after coughing a bit starting running ok -  clouds had come in
and temperature was cool. 

I thought it might be a bad tank of gas, but I've had the problem in
different forms through many fill-ups. I thought it might be the corn they
put in the gas, but no one else seems to be having this issue. The only
other thing I can think of is the fuel pump. Could that be it? 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

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References: <932ACF28E7C74DA491F5FFAA597DC0FD@Datsun>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:42:49 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] "Here is a real gem."
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmm, I've had several Triumphs that looked just like that :)



On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 4:23 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> no kidding.  30,000 original miles.  before you start salivating . . . .
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barn-find-1958-Triumph-TR3-parts-project-30-00
> 0-miles-/251321375347?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a83ebda73
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 17:08:14 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 16:08:03 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6PzMRPu4cY8ORCTnS1b/bUniYeRQLxce4AAALVF4A=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up
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> If I backed off the gas for a few seconds then gave it gas, it would run
ok for a few seconds and then start backfiring again.

That sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem, though I can't explain why it
would only happen when it's hot.  Did you try changing the (aftermarket)
filter?  Check the sediment bowl & screen?  How's the tank vent?  Have the
soft fuel lines near the carbs been changed in the past 10 years or so?

> I pulled the plugs and the last 2 were black and oily.

The oily part sounds suspicious.  Do you have any modifications that would
increase oil on top of the cylinder head?  Might be worth pulling the rocker
cover, just to check that the pushrod tubes (which double as oil drains) are
open.

> I then adjusted the carbs as it seems they were running too lean.

Can you expand a bit on that?  Why did it seem too lean?

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 17:12:46 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 16:12:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6bgJxBKnSOd3dPTFiJzraTBBEwvAAHjCrg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Most often, contamination of the rear brakes on a TR3 is from 
> diff oil past worn axle seals, isn't it?

Yes, I agree entirely.  And even when it is grease, IMO it is from adding
too much grease to the bearings.  Don't grease them so much, and the grease
won't find it's way past the seal.  (There is no vent, no where else for it
to go, so too much grease has to go past either the inner or outer seal.)

I've actually never had a rear wheel bearing fail, even though my last TR3A
had close to 300,000 miles on it when it got wrecked.  (Haven't heard back
from the guy who bought the rear axle, so don't know if he rebuilt it or
not.)

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 17:20:25 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:18:49 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Au/He_3000_mk3_for_sale?=
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For 75 grand, it can build its own house!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "William Smith" <wsmith64@rcn.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Date: Sat, Aug 17, 2013 1:24 pm


A friend in Amagansett, NY is selling his red 1963? Austin-Healy 3000 mk3
Good shape inside and out runs and runs well has been garaged and well cared
for.
It is on display at V&V auto service center in Amagansett.
He is asking $75,000
At the moment i only have room for my '76 TR6, so I hope someone else can give
it a good home.

Will Smith

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 17:51:53 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I suspected vapor lock. I did clean the filter and change the element,
it's one of those glass tube things- maybe I should change it. I didn't
remove the sediment bowl  -I will do that though I don't know why that would
be heat related. I have replaced the soft lines after the fuel pump. No
after market mods to the top half of the engine, but I can pull the valve
cover to see if anything looks strange. 

It seemed too lean because when I pushed the pin  or lifted the damper, it
would stumble and stall. Also, on compression while driving - going down
hills, downshifting for stops - there was a lot of popping, which seemed to
be alleviated this morning while it was running well.

I appreciate the ideas, thanks!
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 4:08 PM
To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net; 'Triumphs'
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up

> If I backed off the gas for a few seconds then gave it gas, it would 
> run
ok for a few seconds and then start backfiring again.

That sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem, though I can't explain why it
would only happen when it's hot.  Did you try changing the (aftermarket)
filter?  Check the sediment bowl & screen?  How's the tank vent?  Have the
soft fuel lines near the carbs been changed in the past 10 years or so?

> I pulled the plugs and the last 2 were black and oily.

The oily part sounds suspicious.  Do you have any modifications that would
increase oil on top of the cylinder head?  Might be worth pulling the rocker
cover, just to check that the pushrod tubes (which double as oil drains) are
open.

> I then adjusted the carbs as it seems they were running too lean.

Can you expand a bit on that?  Why did it seem too lean?

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 17:26:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] triumph list..........spam
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I discovered some time ago that all my list messages are going to my spam
folder.  I've been simply reading them there but would like to change things. 
I'm using yahoo which I understand can cause trouble.
My question was who do I
allow to send messages to my normal addy?  

Can I simply make sure
"triumph@autox.team.net " is accepted to my email addy?  Or do I have to allow
each individual who sends messages permission? 

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 17 18:47:11 2013
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Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:46:58 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:22.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/22.0 SeaMonkey/2.19
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1376785586.60489.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] triumph list..........spam
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Can I simply make sure
> "triumph@autox.team.net " is accepted to my email addy?

It is triumphs - there is an s.  The sender field is 
triumphs-bounces@... so that may work.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 07:07:45 2013
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From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 09:03:28 -0400
References: <BLU168-W5685A19DE1728548B8406CBA440@phx.gbl>, ,
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Subject: [TR] PVGP In-car Video
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A couple of minutes of in-car video from the 2013 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
 prix at Pit Race I raced at last month AND FINISHED! Don't have this GoPro
 stuff figured out yet but this gives a short view and gives me something to
 watch as I get ready for R.A. and the Kastner Cup Turn up the sound. :)

 http://youtu.be/pc7PaNkW0Cw

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 08:34:17 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:34:15 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6cHEWMmeJUzWIkSIi695kuXRlw0g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] tranny cover seal question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On the TR4, is it better to adhere the bottom seals for the tranny cover to
the floor pan or to the cover?  Just curious as I sealed to the tranny cover
on my 6 years ago and seemed to work fine.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:09:38 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <932ACF28E7C74DA491F5FFAA597DC0FD@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [TR] "Here is a real gem."
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 8/17/2013 4:23 PM, Dave wrote:
> no kidding.  30,000 original miles.  before you start salivating . . . .
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barn-find-1958-Triumph-TR3-parts-project-30-00
> 0-miles-/251321375347?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a83ebda73

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barn-find-1958-Triumph-TR3-parts-project-30-000-miles-/251321375347>

aka http://tinyurl.com/barn-lost

"Here's a real gem. I purchased this car several years ago, and at the 
time it had been barn stored since the 70's. Unfortunately it kind of 
fell apart when exposed to daylight. It wasn't wrecked but has body 
damage from being pushed around the barn."

I didn't know they built barns underwater, and pushed cars around with a 
bulldozer...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:20:12 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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So, I bought this tonneau cover for the TR3 and no matter how I try to stretch
it out it comes up a good half inch too short.  I see that there are two
models listed in the Moss catalog and perhaps I got the wrong one.  Does
anyone know the difference between the two?

TIA


Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:29:01 2013
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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:28:35 -0500
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The placement of the first LTD peg behind the door changed at the noted Comm
number.

I found I needed to leave mine out in the sun for a couple of hours in order
to soften it up and stretch it into place.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2013, at 10:19 AM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> So, I bought this tonneau cover for the TR3 and no matter how I try to
stretch
> it out it comes up a good half inch too short.  I see that there are two
> models listed in the Moss catalog and perhaps I got the wrong one.  Does
> anyone know the difference between the two?
>
> TIA
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:34:24 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:33:25 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tranny cover seal question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've only ever done it on the tunnel. Or just used sealer only.  Never
tried the other way.


On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 10:34 AM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>wrote:

> On the TR4, is it better to adhere the bottom seals for the tranny cover to
> the floor pan or to the cover?  Just curious as I sealed to the tranny
> cover
> on my 6 years ago and seemed to work fine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> Ocala FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:43:01 2013
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 15:38:06 +0000
References: <8D06A3D83C2275B-FE0-4D6AD@webmail-vd011.sysops.aol.com>
	FILETIME=[EF75E930:01CE9C28]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

" no matter how I try to stretch it out it comes up a good half inch too
short."

Too short in which direction?

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:58:14 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1375480938.35768.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<000001ce9b97$93d3a090$bb7ae1b0$@net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 08:54:11 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check your oil and make sure you didn't blow a head gasket.

Its also likely you have a vacuum leak around your new shield and it's
causing the car to run lean and therefore hot.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 3:18 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up

I've been having this problem for awhile but it seems to be getting worse.
On Tuesday it was the worst; I drove to Carmel,CA, about 1 1/2 hours. It was
cool out in the morning and the car ran great. I'd already replaced points,
plug, condenser, and coil and rerouted the gas line and gas filter. Coming
home, the car started right up and ran well for the first 30 mins, then I
got out of the coastal fog and into the sun and an ambient temperature in
the 90's. Then the car started backfiring, popping, cracking and losing
power. All of this at highway speeds, no lights, no stops. If I backed off
the gas for a few seconds then gave it gas, it would run ok for a few
seconds and then start backfiring again. Engine temp and oil pressure were
normal. I nursed it home this way and parked it until the next day. I pulled
the plugs and the last 2 were black and oily. The front 2 looked good, it
looked like I had been running on 2 cylinders. 

I installed a heat shield I had ordered from TRF, removed the rear float
bowl, checked the float, cleaned the bowl and valve and checked the float
level. It fired right up, I then adjusted the carbs as it seems they were
running too lean. 

This morning I drove about 15 minutes in town for breakfast then about half
an hour on the highway to club gathering and it ran really great. Maybe half
an hour later I went to move it and it didn't want to start. When it finally
did, it was coughing and sputtering. Left the bonnet up for a bit, then it
started and after coughing a bit starting running ok -  clouds had come in
and temperature was cool. 

I thought it might be a bad tank of gas, but I've had the problem in
different forms through many fill-ups. I thought it might be the corn they
put in the gas, but no one else seems to be having this issue. The only
other thing I can think of is the fuel pump. Could that be it? 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 09:59:31 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20130817232046.3BD28426C2@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 08:57:09 -0700
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	FILETIME=[A7F8CBB0:01CE9C2B]
Subject: Re: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

75k is the price on a recent very good restoration in this market,  I sold
one last year and am wrapping one up this year. Your friend may want to talk
to somebody about where the market is at on these cars currently if he's
really interested in moving it along.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 10:46:01 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:45:31 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Au/He_3000_mk3_for_sale?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Average on those Healeys (auctions) appear to be around 37.8-40k.  The exceptional car might bring more at a select auction.  (Heck, I sold a MG TD for 32k!)
Highs appear to be around 70k, lows about 12.5, but as you all know "There's a butt for every seat.".  If you can unload one for eighty, that's free market forces at work!
The collapsing dollar is beginning to attract overseas buyers by the boatload.
I sold two sunbeam tigers, one to Switzerland and the other into France for money well above the US market.
So, enjoy 'em while you have 'em!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Jonas Payne" <jagmog@hotmail.com>
To: <spook01@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Date: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 10:57 am


75k is the price on a recent very good restoration in this market,  I sold
one last year and am wrapping one up this year. Your friend may want to talk
to somebody about where the market is at on these cars currently if he's
really interested in moving it along.



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 11:19:55 2013
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	2013 10:19:28 -0700 (PDT)
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:19:24 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20130818164608.B6A4642750@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 8/18/13 9:45 AM, spook01@comcast.net wrote:
> The collapsing dollar is beginning to attract overseas buyers by the boatload.
> I sold two sunbeam tigers, one to Switzerland and the other into France for money well above the US market.
> So, enjoy 'em while you have 'em!
>
Beginning?  In the 1980s there were a lot of people making a living by 
going around and buying every British sports car and Porsche they could 
find and reselling them overseas.  For at least a decade exporters were 
vacuuming up any British sports car they could find and making good 
money after all the export and sales fees were paid.  We went from 
British sports cars being everywhere  to rarely seen in a decade.

In the late 1980's I decided I could not keep 3 cars so decided to sell 
my 1968 MGBGT.  The BGT had a near fresh engine and overdrive gearbox.  
The suspension and steering was in very good condition. The interior was 
complete and in good used cosmetic condition.  The body was dent free 
and without rust.  BUT the paint was wearing thin.  You could see the 
primer showing under the colour in places. Because of the worn paint no 
one who looked at it wanted to pay more than $1000 for the car.  I ended 
up selling it to a retiring Australian university professor for almost 
twice my original asking price.  He saw the straight rust free body and 
nearly fresh drive train and thought it a good buy.  I would have 
preferred to keep it in the States but no one wanted to pay for the car 
and for having it painted.

Most of our cars are already in Europe, Australia and Japan.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 11:23:55 2013
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	Aug 2013 17:23:38 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Massey'" <dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:23:43 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6cJnERFPCejYRtQBimEGhJ5oRwAQADMb7Q
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> So, I bought this tonneau cover for the TR3 and no matter how 
> I try to stretch it out it comes up a good half inch too 
> short. 

That has been pretty much my experience as well, with covers from both Moss
& TRF.  Generally I can just barely stretch them enough when they are new,
but then the vinyl shrinks with exposure until it literally rips the zipper
apart, or bends the studs.  It's not clear to me whether the problem is that
the patterns used have shrunk (or eroded) over the years, or whether there
was really that much variation in the cars; but I suspect that both are
true.

I also believe at this point that there were at least 5 and maybe 6
distinctly different patterns for tonneau covers.  If you check the TRF
"Glove Box Companion", it was a write-up of 4 variations, but none of them
seemed to match TS39781LO or my current TS13571L.  Amusingly, the Moss
website has a photo of a cover that does not properly fit the car it is
installed on (doesn't cover the front corner studs).

Also, Charles loaned me his custom-made tonneau cover for a test fitting;
and it was a full inch larger in both length and width than my car is!  The
doors were taken to bare metal during the second respray and there were no
signs of the holes having been relocated, so I believe the locations are
original to the car.  It was also the wrong pattern (as expected), but
Charles' late TR3A is clearly slightly bigger than my current late TR3 (and
previous early TR3A).

Here are some photos I took, if anyone is interested.  The little orange
squares mark the stud location under the cover.
http://tinyurl.com/k6ktcwh
(click on the little magnifying glass in the lower RH corner to zoom in for
a better view).

My conclusion is that the only way to get a proper tonneau fit is to make
one to fit the car (or have it made).  I approached one shop who did not
seem interested, so my current plan is to make one.  Won't be cheap
(especially since I bought the wife a new heavy-duty sewing machine as part
of the deal) but hopefully I'll wind up with something that actually fits,
and a pattern to ease the work the next time I need a new cover.  

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 11:35:01 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Jonas Payne'" <jagmog@hotmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1375480938.35768.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks, Jonas. Did check the oil, all is well. The problem started before I
installed the heat shield, but I'll check for vacuum leaks again. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jonas Payne [mailto:jagmog@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 8:54 AM
To: kinderlehrer@comcast.net; 'Triumphs'
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up

Check your oil and make sure you didn't blow a head gasket.

Its also likely you have a vacuum leak around your new shield and it's
causing the car to run lean and therefore hot.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 3:18 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] TR3A running poorly when outside temp goes up

I've been having this problem for awhile but it seems to be getting worse.
On Tuesday it was the worst; I drove to Carmel,CA, about 1 1/2 hours. It was
cool out in the morning and the car ran great. I'd already replaced points,
plug, condenser, and coil and rerouted the gas line and gas filter. Coming
home, the car started right up and ran well for the first 30 mins, then I
got out of the coastal fog and into the sun and an ambient temperature in
the 90's. Then the car started backfiring, popping, cracking and losing
power. All of this at highway speeds, no lights, no stops. If I backed off
the gas for a few seconds then gave it gas, it would run ok for a few
seconds and then start backfiring again. Engine temp and oil pressure were
normal. I nursed it home this way and parked it until the next day. I pulled
the plugs and the last 2 were black and oily. The front 2 looked good, it
looked like I had been running on 2 cylinders. 

I installed a heat shield I had ordered from TRF, removed the rear float
bowl, checked the float, cleaned the bowl and valve and checked the float
level. It fired right up, I then adjusted the carbs as it seems they were
running too lean. 

This morning I drove about 15 minutes in town for breakfast then about half
an hour on the highway to club gathering and it ran really great. Maybe half
an hour later I went to move it and it didn't want to start. When it finally
did, it was coughing and sputtering. Left the bonnet up for a bit, then it
started and after coughing a bit starting running ok -  clouds had come in
and temperature was cool. 

I thought it might be a bad tank of gas, but I've had the problem in
different forms through many fill-ups. I thought it might be the corn they
put in the gas, but no one else seems to be having this issue. The only
other thing I can think of is the fuel pump. Could that be it? 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog@hotmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 11:46:30 2013
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To: "=?utf-8?B?VGVyaUFubiBKLiBXYWtlbWFu?="
	<tjwakeman@gmail.com>,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:46:13 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Au/He_3000_mk3_for_sale?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In the early eighties I used to import Mercedes, Ferrari, Porsche, Maserati, etc. because the dollar was super strong.  
During the same period, though, due to a fluke in British import taxation, I sold many slightly funky cars into England.  
I suspect your Australian took part in this little crack in taxes, too.
If a car was imported as a parts car, taxes were significantly lower than on a nice and complete car.
In the early eighties, the dollar reached an exchange rate of 3.58 German marks per.  
The lira...well, I used to joke that if you wanted to feel like a millionaire, pay for breakfast!
Money was made on Mercedes primarily because MBNA had agreed to pay a set number of dollars for cars, so as the worth of the dollar climbed, the dollars paid bought more DM.  Mercedes was making out like bandits!  A 500SEL sold through a dealer here was priced nearly 20k more than a better equipped 500SEL brought in, esp. if you used a personal one time exemption.  MBNA HATED it.
International classic car selling is basically money speculation.  (The American dollar is so weak now, other currencies are being considered for reserve currency status for the first time in 80 years.)
So, if the want maximum numbers of dollars for your car, now's a good time to sell overseas.  If you're overseas, and want to pay less numbers of euros or pounds for a classic, now's the time to shop America.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Au/He 3000 mk3 for sale
Date: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 12:19 pm


On 8/18/13 9:45 AM, spook01@comcast.net wrote:
> The collapsing dollar is beginning to attract overseas buyers by the boatload.
> I sold two sunbeam tigers, one to Switzerland and the other into France for money well above the US market.
> So, enjoy 'em while you have 'em!
>
Beginning?  In the 1980s there were a lot of people making a living by going around and buying every British sports car and Porsche they could find and reselling them overseas.  For at least a decade exporters were vacuuming up any British sports car they could find and making good money after all the export and sales fees were paid.  We went from British sports cars being everywhere  to rarely seen in a decade.

In the late 1980's I decided I could not keep 3 cars so decided to sell my 1968 MGBGT.  The BGT had a near fresh engine and overdrive gearbox.  The suspension and steering was in very good condition. The interior was complete and in good used cosmetic condition.  The body was dent free and without rust.  BUT the paint was wearing thin.  You could see the primer showing under the colour in places. Because of the worn paint no one who looked at it wanted to pay more than $1000 for the car.  I ended up selling it to a retiring Australian university professor for almost twice my original asking price.  He saw the straight rust free body and nearly fresh drive train and thought it a good buy.  I would have preferred to keep it in the States but no one wanted to pay for the car and for having it painted.

Most of our cars are already in Europe, Australia and Japan.

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 12:02:14 2013
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From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 13:58:46 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Tr- tr3 original Aeros windscreens f/s
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List, I have a pair of original Aero windscreens f/s. As you know these are
very rare and to find a set is a once in a lifetime. In addition, I have a
left side Lemans wrap around windscreen f/s too. I want to move it as a set.
Please contact me off list--- l1j1s@aol.com.        Cheers, Larry Schwartz

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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:22:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>, Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] PVGP In-car Video
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

very nice.
despite living in Indiana PA for some years I never did make it to Woodley park.
the one year I did make it, it was canceled due to some poor soul having a fatal crash.
but one day..ill be back
Frank

From: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 6:03 AM
Subject: [TR] PVGP In-car Video


A couple of minutes of in-car video from the 2013 Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
prix at Pit Race I raced at last month AND FINISHED! Don't have this GoPro
stuff figured out yet but this gives a short view and gives me something to
watch as I get ready for R.A. and the Kastner Cup Turn up the sound. :)

http://youtu.be/pc7PaNkW0Cw

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 16:23:40 2013
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From: Darrell Floyd <tr250driver@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:18:12 -0400
To: TRiumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
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Subject: [TR] Got Judson
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Hey List,
I guess you only go around once so I have purchased a Judson SuperCharger for
the 63 TR4 restoration.  It was a long search but a fellow from the TRA Forum
responded to my inquiry with a refurbished model TR Judson.  It has the 2
quart metal oiler and not the more familiar 1 quart glass jar variety??  It
does not have the proper Judson boost gauge so I am looking for one of those.
Also missing is any TR linkage to the Holley Carb and the support bar to the
exhaust manifold so I am also looking for help in that regard.  I  have
another question for anyone in the know:  I intended on using the Later TR4
exhaust manifold but now I am wondering it that is going to work?
Thanks in Advance,
Darrell

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 16:24:34 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 17:21:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6
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I looked at a TR6 today here in Dallas.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4006616417.html

good solid car, no serious rust issues, ran and drove great.

just needs paint, interior, and a new transmission.

oh, one other thing.  the title, and the vin plate which was obviously
re-rivited back in place, were 72.  the car was clearly 73 by the gauges and
the lack of a floor mounted dip switch.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 18 16:54:07 2013
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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 16:53:56 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: TRiumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Got Judson
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Darrell Floyd wrote:
> Hey List,
> I guess you only go around once so I have purchased a Judson SuperCharger for
> the 63 TR4 restoration

There is a superchargers@autox.team.net list, but I don't think it has 
seen a post in quite
some time.  It might be worth posting there, though.

mjb.

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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Fore/aft.  I haven't checked the port/starboard fit.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 10:38 am
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover



" no matter how I try to stretch
it out it comes up a good half inch too short."



Too short in which direction?



Best regards,
Tom

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From: Darrell Floyd <tr250driver@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 19:23:55 -0400
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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Dave,
Dum question but normally when purchasing a tonneau,boot cover or top etc. the
snaps are not installed so one can adjust the fit to one's car by installing
the snaps where they required to be.     I just did that procedure on a new
TR8 boot cover since my very nice original was eatin by a bunch of rouge
mices.
Darrell


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 18, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:ru

> Fore/aft.  I haven't checked the port/starboard fit.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
> To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 10:38 am
> Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
>
>
>
> " no matter how I try to stretch
> it out it comes up a good half inch too short."
>
>
>
> Too short in which direction?
>
>
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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Since the snaps are sent uninstalled I wonder why there would be a separate
listing for that.  But that is not my issue.  My problem is that the front to
back length is about a half inch short (I have not checked the R\L fit).  I
didn't think they changed that dimension during the years but we all know the
definition of assume.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 10:28 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover


The placement of the first LTD peg behind the door changed at the noted Comm
number.

I found I needed to leave mine out in the sun for a couple of hours in order
to
soften it up and stretch it into place.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2013, at 10:19 AM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> So, I bought this tonneau cover for the TR3 and no matter how I try to
stretch
> it out it comes up a good half inch too short.  I see that there are two
> models listed in the Moss catalog and perhaps I got the wrong one.  Does
> anyone know the difference between the two?
>
> TIA
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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 Thanks for the advice.  I know a guy who knows a guy who makes a living
making boat covers and this would be right up his alley.  But time is short
and I doubt I could get that done by the time I leave for Triumphest.  I'm
also thinking that this may be more than a one man operation to get things
stretched and positioned properly so I think I will seek out professional help
(something my wife says I should have done years ago ;-) )




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Dave Massey' <dave1massey@cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 12:23 pm
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover


> So, I bought this tonneau cover for the TR3 and no matter how
> I try to stretch it out it comes up a good half inch too
> short.

That has been pretty much my experience as well, with covers from both Moss
& TRF.  Generally I can just barely stretch them enough when they are new,
but then the vinyl shrinks with exposure until it literally rips the zipper
apart, or bends the studs.  It's not clear to me whether the problem is that
the patterns used have shrunk (or eroded) over the years, or whether there
was really that much variation in the cars; but I suspect that both are
true.

I also believe at this point that there were at least 5 and maybe 6
distinctly different patterns for tonneau covers.  If you check the TRF
"Glove Box Companion", it was a write-up of 4 variations, but none of them
seemed to match TS39781LO or my current TS13571L.  Amusingly, the Moss
website has a photo of a cover that does not properly fit the car it is
installed on (doesn't cover the front corner studs).

Also, Charles loaned me his custom-made tonneau cover for a test fitting;
and it was a full inch larger in both length and width than my car is!  The
doors were taken to bare metal during the second respray and there were no
signs of the holes having been relocated, so I believe the locations are
original to the car.  It was also the wrong pattern (as expected), but
Charles' late TR3A is clearly slightly bigger than my current late TR3 (and
previous early TR3A).

Here are some photos I took, if anyone is interested.  The little orange
squares mark the stud location under the cover.
http://tinyurl.com/k6ktcwh
(click on the little magnifying glass in the lower RH corner to zoom in for
a better view).

My conclusion is that the only way to get a proper tonneau fit is to make
one to fit the car (or have it made).  I approached one shop who did not
seem interested, so my current plan is to make one.  Won't be cheap
(especially since I bought the wife a new heavy-duty sewing machine as part
of the deal) but hopefully I'll wind up with something that actually fits,
and a pattern to ease the work the next time I need a new cover.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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 You're right, Darrell, I have a bag of them here.  But unless there is a way
to mount those snaps half on the tonneau and half off I don't know if I can
get the thing mounted.  But I get a lot of "you have to let it sit in the sun
and warm up" type of advice so I think I will do that.

BTW the TR3 grills (not the TR3A grills) being sold by Moss and TRF don't fit,
either, but for the opposite reason: too big.

Thanks and see you in 6 weeks.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Darrell Floyd <tr250driver@aol.com>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Aug 18, 2013 6:23 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover


Dave,
Dum question but normally when purchasing a tonneau,boot cover or top etc. the
snaps are not installed so one can adjust the fit to one's car by installing
the
snaps where they required to be.     I just did that procedure on a new TR8
boot
cover since my very nice original was eatin by a bunch of rouge mices.
Darrell


Sent from my iPad

On Aug 18, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:ru

> Fore/aft.  I haven't checked the port/starboard fit.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 17:53:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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FWIW -- the situation isn't much better for TR4s and they are generally
thought to have been built in much more standardized form.

My tonneau on the 4 required the LTDs be mounted right at the limit that
the binding would allow -- the edge of the fitting actually tucks under the
binding front and rear.  Even then I had to make a modified plate for the
front snaps to have any chance of affixing it in anything less than 1000
heat & full sun.

Now it is beginning to tear from the strain.  Oh well.

I suspect that patterns were made from originals that had, themselves,
already shrunk from the size Coventry produced.

Geo

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From: Gene and Barb Wellenstein <ewellenstein@itol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A REAR HUB REMOVAL
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I am the guilty party who fabricated the homemade tool Randall has 
referenced.  I neglected to put any contact information in the write-up.

If anyone would like their hubs separated I am glad to do it for the 
cost of shipping the axle/hubs back to the owner. I won't rebuild the 
assembly but will do the separation.  The tool works very well and I 
can usually send the separated assembly back to the owner the day 
after I receive the parts so this minimizes downtime.

The biggest problem I encounter is that many hubs are somewhat bent 
when received so I now throw the assembly in a lathe to check hub 
runout before separating and let the owner know the findings before 
doing any work.

With this tool the hub is supported on the front and rear face so 
there is no "spring" in the assembly  when released therefore there 
is no violent separation. It is hard to tell when the two pieces have 
parted ways!!

The tool was interesting to design and time consuming to fabricate 
but I suspect I am almost as stubborn as Randall (in that way).

Gene Wellenstein
Kewaunee,  WI



At 10:27 AM 8/17/2013, Randall wrote:
> > Seeking advice on removal of rear hub. Made a tool from
> > splined wire wheel holder but still won't budge. Hate to try
> > Hub buster for fear of damage to axel. Hub is damaged now by
> > use of three pronged remover.
>
>This homemade tool looks like it would work well, if you can find the
>materials:
>http://tinyurl.com/mu6mcpj

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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 03:49:00 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Day
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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MJB at the Kastner Cup?  Yay!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 05:34:17 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 07:33:45 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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Indeed.  And it seems you always want to put up the hood or tonneau when 
the weather is no longer sunny.

The top on my TR6 fits great!  The history on this top is that it was 
purchased by an acquaintance back in the mid 70's but before he could put it on 
his car got T-boned and totaled.  So he put it on the shelf.  20+ years later 
when I was redoing my TR6 he dug it out and gave it to me.  But the time it 
was installed on my car the stretch was gone.  Upholsterers like to set 
these things up nice and tight.  A saggy top looks like a sloppy installation.  
When you do that with a new top that means stretching it.  But after a few 
years and after the elastomers evaporate the top no longer stretches and, 
hence, no longer fits.

But when they are made too short to begin with...

Dave

In a message dated 8/18/2013 7:20:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bobannand1@eastlink.ca writes: 
> The only problem with fitting the hood or tonneau in the sun is that they 
> are a bastard to put on when it is cold and wet.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 06:11:56 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 08:05:51 -0400 (EDT)
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
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I have two tonneaus for the TR6 and the both fit equally well.  That is to 
say they both don't fit worth a darn.  I'm tempted to sew on some cloth 
straps at the front for the grommets.  Then they might reach.

Tonneaus are a neat device but only if they actually fit.

Dave

In a message dated 8/18/2013 7:57:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr@gmail.com writes: 
> FWIW -- the situation isn't much better for TR4s and they are generally
> thought to have been built in much more standardized form.
> 
> My tonneau on the 4 required the LTDs be mounted right at the limit that
> the binding would allow -- the edge of the fitting actually tucks under 
> the
> binding front and rear.  Even then I had to make a modified plate for the
> front snaps to have any chance of affixing it in anything less than 1000
> heat &full sun.
> 
> Now it is beginning to tear from the strain.  Oh well.
> 
> I suspect that patterns were made from originals that had, themselves,
> already shrunk from the size Coventry produced.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 08:05:24 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 07:04:37 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <10b59d.23f866e2.3f435c99@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 8/19/13 4:33 AM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
> Indeed.  And it seems you always want to put up the hood or tonneau when
> the weather is no longer sunny.
>
Thankfully when I placed the snaps to my soft top it was a cool day.    
I could always put my top up when the weather turned bad or a little too 
chilly.  Many of the people I traveled with placed their snaps on hot 
sunny days and when the weather got chilly they could only snap some of 
their snaps.  I'd rather have a top or tonneau a little loose in 100 
degree weather  and have a nice fit when I want to install it during 
cooler weather.

I guess they cut tonneaus a bit looser back in the 1980's.  Mine fits 
nicely but is over 20 years old.

TeriAnn

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 11:55:55 -0400
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneau Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a Robbins tonneau from Topsonline.com for my TR2.

It was a bear to fit - at least an inch too short (ISTR ~1.5-2 inches). I
presume it was made for a later TR2 when the posts were moved to the dash
coping vs in the valance near the windshield.

I put some snaps in, very close to the edge and put the tonneau in a
pillowcase and threw it in the dryer on high for 45 mins. and pulled and
marked 2 to 4 holes.   I put the snaps in and threw it back in the dryer.
put it on - snapped the snaps and proceeded to mark the next 2-4 snaps -
Dry and repeat.

I was able to install it without ripping the tonneau and it's been on and
off several times since.  Sun definately helps. It's very difficult to
remove - those snaps near the windshield and rear view mirror are a PITA.

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 16:00:56 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 18:00:28 -0400
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Subject: [TR] wheel question
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I am thinking about 6" rims for the next TR3 and want something other than
wire wheels this time.  Any thoughts,, suggestions, advice regarding
minilite versus panasports?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 16:59:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 18:58:19 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <003d01ce9d27$8b222840$a16678c0$@uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Andrew,

I went with Superlites for my 72 TR6. I would love to get a set for my 
58 3 but I cant find them anywhere anymore.

There is an outfit somewhere in Canada that sells a minilite replica. I 
see them on Ebay from time to time but cant remember their website. They 
look similar to the Superlites I have.

Bob

On 08/19/2013 06:00 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am thinking about 6" rims for the next TR3 and want something other than
> wire wheels this time.  Any thoughts,, suggestions, advice regarding
> minilite versus panasports?
>
>   
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 17:29:49 2013
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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 23:28:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel question
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I just received a set of 15x 5.5" Panasports for my TR3. I have a set of 6" on the car now with 185/65 tires. The 6" are not vintage race legal, so I got a set of 5.5s. they both work fine. Tires size matters. 205/60s will have clearance problems on a 3s rear fenders. 
The other minilite style wheels that Moss sells, didn't interest me, but they will work too. Their Panasport wheels come with a higher price. 
I got my Panasports from a company in Fla. called Spruell Motorsports. Look them up. Great price shipped to Cali. They are the same that Moss sells. The 6" Panasport wheel come in a race wheel too for relatively the same price as the street wheel. The 5.5" is only available as a street wheel. Again, just check the web for Panasport wheels. You'll find all the info you need. 


Dave H. 
Santa Cruz, CA. 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net> 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 3:00:28 PM 
Subject: [TR] wheel question 

I am thinking about 6" rims for the next TR3 and want something other than 
wire wheels this time. Any thoughts,, suggestions, advice regarding 
minilite versus panasports? 



Andrew Uprichard 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 19:03:49 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
References: <216080966.2184312.1376954902432.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 19:01:37 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] wheel question
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I have 15x5.5" 8 spoke wheels for the TR4A.  I bought these second-hand from 
a guy, got a great price, but I don't know exactly what brand they are.  It 
has taken some trimming on the edge of the upper control arms to get the 
inside edge of the front wheel to not rub there.

I really like the look, but if I had to do it over I would have passed on 
these wheels.  The lug nuts are sleeve-shaped, not beveled.  I don't know if 
all the 8 spoke wheels are this way.  The wheel gets centered nicely but the 
lugnuts are a pain to get on and off.  I would have preferred a beveled nut.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: davehogye
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 5:28 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel question

I just received a set of 15x 5.5" Panasports for my TR3. I have a set of 6" 
on the car now with 185/65 tires. The 6" are not vintage race legal, so I 
got a set of 5.5s. they both work fine. Tires size matters. 205/60s will 
have clearance problems on a 3s rear fenders.
The other minilite style wheels that Moss sells, didn't interest me, but 
they will work too. Their Panasport wheels come with a higher price.
I got my Panasports from a company in Fla. called Spruell Motorsports. Look 
them up. Great price shipped to Cali. They are the same that Moss sells. The 
6" Panasport wheel come in a race wheel too for relatively the same price as 
the street wheel. The 5.5" is only available as a street wheel. Again, just 
check the web for Panasport wheels. You'll find all the info you need.


Dave H.
Santa Cruz, CA.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 3:00:28 PM
Subject: [TR] wheel question

I am thinking about 6" rims for the next TR3 and want something other than
wire wheels this time. Any thoughts,, suggestions, advice regarding
minilite versus panasports?



Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 18:23:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Been spending time cruising in newly restored tr-3 and loving it!  Surprised
at all the torque.
This is a raw sports car which I love.  One issue is wind
whipping around the windscreen which methinks the "lady of my choice" might
tire of!
Can anyone give me information on those optional wind screen "wings"
that one attaches to the side of the windscreen?  Do they help or not?
thanks!
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 20:37:21 -0500
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,

Been lurking on the MG list and they just finished kicking this around.  Most
of them would tell you no.

 I have them on my 3 and I can sure say they help the wind in your face. But
you still have the turbulence behind you.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 19, 2013, at 8:23 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Been spending time cruising in newly restored tr-3 and loving it!
Surprised
> at all the torque.
> This is a raw sports car which I love.  One issue is wind
> whipping around the windscreen which methinks the "lady of my choice" might
> tire of!
> Can anyone give me information on those optional wind screen "wings"
> that one attaches to the side of the windscreen?  Do they help or not?
> thanks!
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 1:44:03 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  Gary Nafziger
	<nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Can anyone give me information on those optional wind screen "wings"
> that one attaches to the side of the windscreen?  Do they help or not?

They do help, but the effect is mostly noticeable at lower speeds.  Not much difference at freeway speeds, IMO.

What some people have done is to fabricate an additional wing that mounts into the side curtain pockets, and sticks out along the top of the door.  I don't know of anyone offering them commercially, but they aren't too hard to fabricate yourself.  Although I don't have them on my car, the ones that Fred Thomas made seemed to make a big difference on his TR3A:

http://tinyurl.com/kxvrewc

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 19:45:08 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote:

> ...Can anyone give me information on those optional wind screen "wings"
> that one attaches to the side of the windscreen?  Do they help or not?



I think they are helpful and moreso with the door version Randall
mentioned.  Here is the version I made --

http://tinyurl.com/n2h9zbo

You can get an idea of the effect by simply putting your hand &/or arm in
various positions to see the affect it has on air movement.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 19 22:43:20 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:43:00 -0700
Thread-Index: AQJKkGiF8moB5aJVc2/lvkcfZgVvxZilfA2wgAAg1YA=
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Randall:  the URL didn't work. 

Ok, my apologies on several fronts.  First of all, I'm told that Fred didn't
make the wings I linked to, Ronnie Babbitt did.  That certainly makes sense,
as I know Ronnie is a great fabricator and has a beautiful TR3A.  But if
Fred told me that, I simply forgot it.

And sorry about the bad link.  Sometimes the magic works, sometimes ...
Anyway, here's one that should work:
http://tinyurl.com/lq6fpbx

And a bonus second shot
http://tinyurl.com/lzfk58h

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 20 05:55:22 2013
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From: KingsCreekTrees@aol.com
Full-name: KingsCreekTrees
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 07:54:44 -0400 (EDT)
To: nafzigerg@yahoo.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary;
 
I'm afraid you're going to get a lot of differing opinions on this. When I  
bought my most recent TR3, it was already fitted with them. I didn't like 
how  they interfered with entry/exit, the soft top, and I thought they looked 
sily.  With great trepidation I removed them. I found no difference with 
them removed,  and I live in an area that's largely flat with wide open fields 
and heavy  crosswinds.
 
I've now removed the windscreen altogether and fitted aeroscreens. Again, I 
 find no difference except in rain.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 19/08/2013 9:24:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nafzigerg@yahoo.com writes:

Been  spending time cruising in newly restored tr-3 and loving it!   
Surprised
at all the torque.
This is a raw sports car which I  love.  One issue is wind
whipping around the windscreen which methinks  the "lady of my choice" might
tire of!
Can anyone give me information on  those optional wind screen "wings"
that one attaches to the side of the  windscreen?  Do they help or not?
thanks!
gary n.

**  triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 20 06:38:20 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006701ce9d4e$8f1ff810$ad5fe830$@uprichard.net>
	<AA.89.02184.CC3F2125@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:37:43 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have experience with the racing sidescreens which essentially
flatten out the top of the door ?  

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 12:43 AM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] windscreen "wings"


> Randall:  the URL didn't work. 

Ok, my apologies on several fronts.  First of all, I'm told that Fred didn't
make the wings I linked to, Ronnie Babbitt did.  That certainly makes sense,
as I know Ronnie is a great fabricator and has a beautiful TR3A.  But if
Fred told me that, I simply forgot it.

And sorry about the bad link.  Sometimes the magic works, sometimes ...
Anyway, here's one that should work:
http://tinyurl.com/lq6fpbx

And a bonus second shot
http://tinyurl.com/lzfk58h

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 05:55:00 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <AA.89.02184.CC3F2125@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the original subject was really about a woman surviving in a TR3 
and not having to spend the following hour detangling hair.

The big problem is the wind coming over the top of the windscreen and 
looping around coming at the back of your head sending your hair 
forward.  The single largest cure is to put the top up.  Windscreen 
wings helps when you have the top up but do not do a lot for long hair 
when driving top down.

My cure for surviving top down driving is a stocking cap that has sides 
that can come down over the ears and can wrap under your chin.  Hair 
stays in place and is tangle free.  All you might need is a quick 
styling after taking the stocking cap off.

If you have long hair and are driving top down you should have a hat 
that covers your hair and will not blow away or carry a spray on 
detangler and good brush and have an hour at the end of the drive to 
work the tangles out.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 08:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] windscreen "wings"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

mine do. substantially.
 
Frank 
 

________________________________
 From:
Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2013 6:23 PM
Subject: [TR]
windscreen "wings"
  

Been spending time cruising in newly restored tr-3 and
loving it!  Surprised
at all the torque.
This is a raw sports car which I
love.  One issue is wind
whipping around the windscreen which methinks the
"lady of my choice" might
tire of!
Can anyone give me information on those
optional wind screen "wings"
that one attaches to the side of the windscreen? 
Do they help or not?
thanks!
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 19:39:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr-3 ignition light on dash
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw a post mentioning a dash ignition light that stayed on and I'm having
the same issue with my tr-3.  I hadn't really considered it significant
because I have been watching all kinds of other issues while breaking in a new
engine.  

Is it the voltage regulator that controls this small light?  I have
had one event of weak battery (its a new battery) so I have wondered about the
electrical system.  Checked the dynamo and output fluctuates (due to varying
idle?) between 10-15 volts, so I think that is good. 


I'm assuming I should
look into voltage regulator, cutout ect.  The methods for adjusting those look
daunting.  Are these adjustments commonly needed?  Easy to do?
thanks...........gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 20:50:00 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6eGbWxFa6KTLiXQdyujljFR1wYtwAA6mEg
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 ignition light on dash
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Is it the voltage regulator that controls this small light?  
> I have had one event of weak battery (its a new battery) so I 
> have wondered about the electrical system.  Checked the 
> dynamo and output fluctuates (due to varying
> idle?) between 10-15 volts, so I think that is good. 

Well, that would be consistent with the cutout not working.  But the light
should be out when the voltage matches the battery, so I'm wondering if
there is a wiring problem somewhere.

> Are these adjustments 
> commonly needed?  Easy to do?

In my limited experience, the cutout not closing (which causes the light to
stay on) is not usually a matter of adjustment.  Well, except in the sense
that poor adjustment may lead to a failure that causes the light to stay on.
I learned about that the hard way, which is why most of my TR experience is
with a Ford alternator <g>

However, a good cleaning of the contacts might get it going again, and the
voltage regulator contacts pretty much have to be disassembled for cleaning
(meaning you get to adjust them afterwards).

The adjustments aren't particularly hard, IMO, but you do need to understand
the intent.  For some reason the books all list the mechanical adjustments
second, but they really need to be done (or at least checked) first.

The booklet at
http://tinyurl.com/bab2hsc
Gives a pretty good set of tests, and a summary of the adjustment procedure
in parts 1 & 2 (ignore 3 & 4, they don't apply to TR2-4A).

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Wiring
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Trying to help a friend with his fuel gauge wiring. Ground up restoration. New
harness from one of the major vendors purchased many years ago.
?
Car - TR3A commission 577XX
One?green and black wire which goes to fuel tank sender and attaches to the
gauge.
One?lighter green wire that goes to the fuse block and attaches to the?gauge.
Coming from this lighter green wire and the eyelet which goes to the fuel
gauge is another same color green wire?which is about 5" long.
?
Where does the 5" wire?connect to? There is no electrical connection at the
end. Just cut off.
?
Thanks
Tom Beaver
?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 08:56:54 2013
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 10:55:51 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Thomas Beaver" <tbe749@aol.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Wiring
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Someone, in the past, has added an additional ground wire. The gauge
requires grounding and usually only the gauge clamp strap provides it. A
secondary ground makes things work better. Connect the loose end to the
ground screw on the bak of the gauge panel. If the wire was black, it
would be obvious.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Trying to help a friend with his fuel gauge wiring. Ground up restoration.
> New
> harness from one of the major vendors purchased many years ago.
> ?
> Car - TR3A commission 577XX
> One?green and black wire which goes to fuel tank sender and attaches to
> the
> gauge.
> One?lighter green wire that goes to the fuse block and attaches to
> the?gauge.
> Coming from this lighter green wire and the eyelet which goes to the fuel
> gauge is another same color green wire?which is about 5" long.
> ?
> Where does the 5" wire?connect to? There is no electrical connection at
> the
> end. Just cut off.
> ?
> Thanks
> Tom Beaver
> ?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Thomas Beaver" <tbe749@aol.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Wiring
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I just re-read your post. If the green wire to the gauge splits off to a
second wire, that is a fused 12 volt supply and probably is where you
would power the heater switch from.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Trying to help a friend with his fuel gauge wiring. Ground up restoration.
> New
> harness from one of the major vendors purchased many years ago.
> ?
> Car - TR3A commission 577XX
> One?green and black wire which goes to fuel tank sender and attaches to
> the
> gauge.
> One?lighter green wire that goes to the fuse block and attaches to
> the?gauge.
> Coming from this lighter green wire and the eyelet which goes to the fuel
> gauge is another same color green wire?which is about 5" long.
> ?
> Where does the 5" wire?connect to? There is no electrical connection at
> the
> end. Just cut off.
> ?
> Thanks
> Tom Beaver
> ?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 10:17:20 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 09:04:47 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6ef2c26oHm37CUTQmHxH7nBCFkCAAB3dwg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I just re-read your post. If the green wire to the gauge 
> splits off to a second wire, that is a fused 12 volt supply 
> and probably is where you would power the heater switch from.

In fact, I believe that is where the factory connected the heater on later
cars with the self-parking wiper motor.  The workshop manual talks about
connecting it to the wiper switch, but that would only work on early cars
without the self-park feature.

I don't believe the factory used a ground wire for the fuel gauge, but it is
a very worthwhile addition IMO.  Just a short jumper, with a ring terminal
to fit over the mounting post for the gauge, and the other end added to the
ground tie point on the back of the instrument panel right next to the
gauge.

-- Randall 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 14:40:39 2013
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 13:30:57 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a  way to tell from the color of the wire where it belongs or
where it goes to?

>From a Stag I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to be live (12v)

Is there some sort of legend for color coding?

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 14:44:18 2013
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From: McGaheyRx@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:43:47 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphstag@gmail.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

yep, here ya go:
 
http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0014.html
 
 
In a message dated 8/21/2013 4:40:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
triumphstag@gmail.com writes:

Is there  a  way to tell from the color of the wire where it belongs or
where it  goes to?

>From a Stag I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to  be live (12v)

Is there some sort of legend for color  coding?

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino,  CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:58:04 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> From a Stag I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to be live (12v)

That's right.  The difference is that the purple circuit has a fuse, brown does not.

Then white is switched by the ignition switch, but without a fuse; green is the same thing with a fuse.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 15:26:40 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag@gmail.com>,	"Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANLCLaFA0eAFGwhM0SKZ3H4FHsV-0nC5CbwtcuirY6a0wU5HSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 17:08:29 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

actually the entire British Motoring industry follows(ed) The same color 
coding

http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html

http://bmcautos.com/british-car-blogs-articles/60-lucas-wiring-color-codes

http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0014.html

tons more lists out there...   :-)


Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:30 PM
Subject: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs


> Is there a  way to tell from the color of the wire where it belongs or
> where it goes to?
>
> From a Stag I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to be live (12v)
>
> Is there some sort of legend for color coding?
>
> Sujit
>
> -- 
> Sujit Roy, Realtor
> Cupertino, CA
> (408) 839-8359
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 15:44:20 2013
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	<F6EE39A904F441789C41F73F37158FDF@dragonlairii>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 14:41:37 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks this is a  great help/. I tried printing the first one from the jag
site in color, but the main stuff got  printed in BW only.



On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 2:08 PM, ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net> wrote:

> actually the entire British Motoring industry follows(ed) The same color
> coding
>
> http://www.dimebank.com/**LucasColours.html<http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html>
>
> http://bmcautos.com/british-**car-blogs-articles/60-lucas-**
> wiring-color-codes<http://bmcautos.com/british-car-blogs-articles/60-lucas-wiring-color-codes>
>
> http://www.jcna.com/library/**tech/tech0014.html<http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0014.html>
>
> tons more lists out there...   :-)
>
>
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler@verizon.net
> www.teglerizer.com
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag@gmail.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 4:30 PM
> Subject: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
>
>
>  Is there a  way to tell from the color of the wire where it belongs or
>> where it goes to?
>>
>> From a Stag I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to be live (12v)
>>
>> Is there some sort of legend for color coding?
>>
>> Sujit
>>
>> --
>> Sujit Roy, Realtor
>> Cupertino, CA
>> (408) 839-8359
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/triumphs/ptegler@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net>
>>
>>
>


-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 21 18:52:08 2013
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 17:38:26 -0700
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Toyota supra engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/toyota-supra-engine


Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 12:27:38 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As a general rule of thumb, what Randall and others have said is correct. But
with the passage of time and cars being bought by enthusiasts around the
world, beware the car that first went to Italy for sale as a new vehicle. On
that variant you will find a completely different loom, different codings and
at least 24 separate fused circuits.
 
Jonmac
>________________________________
> From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
>To:
Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Wednesday, 21 August 2013, 21:58
>Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
>  
>
>> From a Stag
I have, the brown wires and purple wires seem to be live (12v)
>
>That's
right.  The difference is that the purple circuit has a fuse, brown does not.
>
>Then white is switched by the ignition switch, but without a fuse; green is
the same thing with a fuse.
>
>Randall
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'William Pugh'" <anabil007@comcast.net>, "'TR3/6'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D29080CD-ADD7-4B0C-A20D-71BC21ABC2ED@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 09:07:14 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6e0fLZTwW1a/Q/QUW/3FjzHqpE/gAbkqnw
Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota supra engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you re-powering one of your TRs? 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 7:38 PM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] Toyota supra engine

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/toyota-supra-engine


Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 13:01:02 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Got Judson
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Darrel,

Though I'm a newbie and have not yet found the late 63 or later TR4 surrey top
of my dreams, I look forward to hearing more about the Judson. I'm very
interested in period mods, and have read Kas Kastner's books many times. I
even have an original edition of his Competition Preparation Manual.

Take care.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 14:16:03 2013
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 20:15:47 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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---- John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: 
> As a general rule of thumb, what Randall and others have said is correct. But
> with the passage of time and cars being bought by enthusiasts around the
> world, beware the car that first went to Italy for sale as a new vehicle. 

Also beware modifications by previous owners.  The second Stag had a big black wire under the dash that had been cut and left to dangle.  Normally black is ground, so it was tempting to tuck it under a bolt head somewhere.  Fortunately I resisted the impulse, as I later discovered that it was twisted together with a brown wire somewhere up behind the panel.  The car also now has circuit breakers protecting a lot of the brown wires, after one of them shorted to ground inside the steering column.

Randall

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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Got Judson
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---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote: 
> Darrel,
> 
> Though I'm a newbie and have not yet found the late 63 or later TR4 surrey top
> of my dreams, I look forward to hearing more about the Judson. 

Anything in particular you would like to know?  I have one, but not sure I'll ever actually put it on an engine.  It's pretty crude by modern standards, not really designed to last very long (or let the engine last very long).  And having to remember to add oil every 800 miles sounds like a hassle to me.  If you run it dry for too long, the vanes self-destruct and take the engine with them ...

One of the things I found interesting: Although the oiler was made by Marvel (the same folks who make Marvel Mystery Oil), it was NOT supposed to have MMO used in it.  The instructions specify SAE 10 detergent motor oil:
http://tinyurl.com/lxx7bzf

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 15:40:36 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 17:39:39 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
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Whilet I am familiar with the vehicle#, body#, engine# etc. on our Triumphs, I
have never seen a plate quite like this one.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithchristr6/sets/72157635192324690/
It is on an early TR4 (November 1961) CT1218LO. Has anyone come across such a
plate and what does the information mean?

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 15:48:39 2013
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I've seen those plates on some cars before, have no idea of the 
significance.

mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 16:21:25 2013
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 18:20:51 -0400
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] ID / setup tips for Iskenderian TR cam?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Guy I know in the UK has a cam for his TR3A and he's looking for advice on
setup.  Any tips appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Don



Details:

The cam has a casting mark M246.
Iskenderian TR234.on one end
Steel band round cam body with "Iskenderian cams A 8498" tightly bound
around the cam but obviously meant to be removed.
The story is that it was bought as a fast road cam but other than that no
ideas.

Needs to know:

Anything odd for setting it up, especially any details around how to time
it or at least if it uses the standard marks when the dogs are fitted as
the original specification?

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 16:34:05 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 18:33:50 -0400
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	<5216891D.6010702@adelphia.net>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
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The position is shown in the picture. It is at right angles and underneath the
Commission No. plate. The body number plate is on the other side of the
firewall. The body number plate and the commission number plate are consistent
with one another but as far as being in the same series, this number does not
fit. I am wondering if it contains different information.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-08-22, at 5:56 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> Keith
>
> Hard to tell without its exact position but it could be a body number plate
although it should be attached with rivets.
>
> Bob
>
> On 08/22/2013 05:39 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:
>> Whilet I am familiar with the vehicle#, body#, engine# etc. on our
Triumphs, I
>> have never seen a plate quite like this one.
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithchristr6/sets/72157635192324690/
>> It is on an early TR4 (November 1961) CT1218LO. Has anyone come across such
a
>> plate and what does the information mean?
>>
>> Keith Stewart
>> keithstewart@execulink.com

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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 16:23:51 -0700
To: "<wbeech@flash.net>" <wbeech@flash.net>
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Not yet, but it is high on my I WANT IT list.

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA


On Aug 22, 2013, at 7:07 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Are you re-powering one of your TRs?

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 22 19:42:17 2013
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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 21:35:15 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
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Hello List:
After running my '2 project for several weeks getting up the nerve to 
install the transmission tunnel. Have delayed this in anticipation of 
any issues with the o/d or who knows?
It has been some time since I removed the tunnel at the start of the 
project. Just eye-balling the process, I gather the seats must come out 
(again!), but what about the gear shift? Just the knob come off or does 
the entire lever come out? I have to fish the o/d wiring through the 
hole in the side of the tunnel - is there a grommet supposed to be 
there? My tunnel is already carpeted (glued on), so this might be a problem.
Anything I'm missing here or what to look out for?
Like so many other "piece of cake" procedures on my project, not sure 
what the '2 has in store for me.
Thanks for any direction with this one.
Angelo Graham

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Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 18:46:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - transmission tunnel install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

defiantly use a grommet if passing wire through it.
I was able to wrestle my
tunnel off with just the gear knob removed. but it was tight.
and its just a
PIA with lots of saxon words to get the bolts to line up, get started and run
home.
 
 

From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 6:35 PM
Subject: [TR]
TR2/3 - transmission tunnel install


Hello List:
After running my '2 project
for several weeks getting up the nerve to 
install the transmission tunnel.
Have delayed this in anticipation of 
any issues with the o/d or who knows?
It
has been some time since I removed the tunnel at the start of the 
project.
Just eye-balling the process, I gather the seats must come out 
(again!), but
what about the gear shift? Just the knob come off or does 
the entire lever
come out? I have to fish the o/d wiring through the 
hole in the side of the
tunnel - is there a grommet supposed to be 
there? My tunnel is already
carpeted (glued on), so this might be a problem.
Anything I'm missing here or
what to look out for?
Like so many other "piece of cake" procedures on my
project, not sure 
what the '2 has in store for me.
Thanks for any direction
with this one.
Angelo Graham

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 11:36:32 2013
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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 17:36:17 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
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Subject: [TR] uncle jack picture, who ceated it?
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I have a print I made from a tribute picture I got somewhere.  Who created it?  Please contact me.

It's in here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/9002943345/in/pool-triumphstagcars%7Cpethier

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 15:18:34 -0400
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Generally similar tags have been seen on CA cars that were carried over
from one year's inventory to the next (per John Warfield).  The formatting
was completely different though -- those tags had something like ST-63 or
similar.  It doesn't seem to be known exactly what your tag represents.

Do you know what state it was originally sold in?




On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 5:39 PM, Keith Stewart
<keithstewart@execulink.com>wrote:

> Whilet I am familiar with the vehicle#, body#, engine# etc. on our
> Triumphs, I
> have never seen a plate quite like this one.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithchristr6/sets/72157635192324690/
> It is on an early TR4 (November 1961) CT1218LO. Has anyone come across
> such a
> plate and what does the information mean?
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart@execulink.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 14:43:45 2013
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 15:43:14 -0500
References: <20130822202545.1TWEE.127038.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Got Judson
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm too much of a novice to ask sensible questions. I'm just curious to hear
how things go. Thanks for posting the install instructions. I think I've seen
those elsewhere. Perhaps here: http://vwjudsonregister.tripod.com/index.htm

Though very VW oriented, there's a lot of good Judson info. They seem to have
a more positive view of it's reliability (both the supercharger and the car).
I don't know if I'd have the nerve to install one either, though.

Take care.

On 22 Aug 2013, at 3:25 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> ---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote:
>> Darrel,
>>
>> Though I'm a newbie and have not yet found the late 63 or later TR4 surrey
top
>> of my dreams, I look forward to hearing more about the Judson.
>
> Anything in particular you would like to know?  I have one, but not sure
I'll ever actually put it on an engine.  It's pretty crude by modern
standards, not really designed to last very long (or let the engine last very
long).  And having to remember to add oil every 800 miles sounds like a hassle
to me.  If you run it dry for too long, the vanes self-destruct and take the
engine with them ...
>
> One of the things I found interesting: Although the oiler was made by Marvel
(the same folks who make Marvel Mystery Oil), it was NOT supposed to have MMO
used in it.  The instructions specify SAE 10 detergent motor oil:
> http://tinyurl.com/lxx7bzf
>
> Randall


-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 15:11:02 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 17:08:42 -0400
References: <E5D504A0-AEE3-4740-AA60-AB3FCC20A44F@execulink.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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It was originally sold in California.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-08-23, at 3:18 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Generally similar tags have been seen on CA cars that were carried over
from one year's inventory to the next (per John Warfield).  The formatting was
completely different though -- those tags had something like ST-63 or similar.
It doesn't seem to be known exactly what your tag represents.
>>
>> Do you know what state it was originally sold in?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 5:39 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:
>> Whilet I am familiar with the vehicle#, body#, engine# etc. on our
Triumphs, I
>> have never seen a plate quite like this one.
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithchristr6/sets/72157635192324690/
>> It is on an early TR4 (November 1961) CT1218LO. Has anyone come across such
a
>> plate and what does the information mean?
>>
>> Keith Stewart
>> keithstewart@execulink.com
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 14:49:52 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, Triumphs
  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 12:18 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> Generally similar tags have been seen on CA cars that were carried over
> from one year's inventory to the next (per John Warfield).  The formatting
> was completely different though -- those tags had something like ST-63 or
> similar...



STC tags were used to denote 'model' year (I believe irrespective of
whether they were carried over inventory or not) in California and other
states.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/STC_zpsf9151e92.jpg

But the OPs tag is indeed something else altogether.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 16:04:25 -0700
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Got Judson
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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---- Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com> wrote: 
> Though very VW oriented, there's a lot of good Judson info. They seem to have
> a more positive view of it's reliability (both the supercharger and the car).

Possibly it does work out better on a Bug motor.  One of the problems is that the Judson design is relatively inefficient, meaning it generates a lot of heat and consumes a lot of power for the amount of boost that it produces.  And at least some of the heat is generated all the time, even when not using the boost.  The blower is always compressing the inlet air, even when the throttle plate in the itty bitty 1BBL Holley carb is throttling down the engine for cruising.  Hot fuel/air mixture makes the engine more apt to detonate (knock), as of course does running boost in the first place; and the stock TR motor doesn't have a lot of margin to begin with.  There is a reason that the factory recommended 95 octane fuel.  The oil being mixed with the fuel/air doesn't help either (oil has a horribly low anti-knock index).

Modern blowers (like the kit Moss sells) use a more efficient compressor design (so generate less heat for a given boost & flow) and a bypass valve so it doesn't generate heat (and waste power/fuel) all the time.  I believe (not certain) the Moss kit also includes provisions to retard the spark while running under boost, to keep the timing optimum and further reduce the chances of engine-destroying knock.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 17:21:06 2013
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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:20:41 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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---- Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Generally similar tags have been seen on CA cars that were carried over
> from one year's inventory to the next (per John Warfield).  The formatting
> was completely different though -- those tags had something like ST-63 or
> similar.  

FWIW, here's a shot of an STC tag.  I've seen several others, they weren't always the same color but the size, shape and script was always the same.
http://tinyurl.com/2awrm8l
(Sorry for the poor photo, that was my first digital camera and it didn't have macro mode or even 1/2 megapixel resolution.)

Keith's tag seems to be something different.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 20:29:01 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 trailing arm bushings...
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1975 TR6...getting the old bushings out is easy peasy lemon squeezy. 
Getting the new ones in, not so much.

I wanted to use rubber bushings instead of urethane/nylatron since I 
drive for fun, not for speed or bumpiness.  I managed, using a piece of 
all-thread, to get two new bushings in so far.  But, instead of looking 
like they did before, they are coned on one end and flat on the end 
where I pulled them in.

I assume that, as long as the brackets go on the bushings and on the 
car, and the metal sleeve is centered, that all will work ok.  Does this 
sound reasonable?

And, secondly:  Is there a better way to get the bushings in the 
trailing arm?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 23 18:38:18 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 17:38:02 -0700
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To: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trailing arm bushings...
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On Aug 23, 2013, at 5:29 PM, Jeff <fishplate@charter.net> wrote:

> And, secondly:  Is there a better way to get the bushings in the trailing
arm?

I've always used a small bottle jack, use one ear to support the base of the
jack, then swap around.

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:24:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing my windshield in my TR4A
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If anybody out there has installed a windshield in  a TR4 or TR4A I have a
couple of questions.
1. Do I cement the rubber gasket into the windshield frame before I install
the windshield?
2. I have heard that your supposed to use a rope of some kind to pull the
gasket around the windshield? What type and diameter?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 06:32:03 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Installing my windshield in my TR4A
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Dave,

I managed to install the glass using nylon rope and soap but it is real 
hard and you risk breaking the glass. When it came time to get new 
glass, I just drove the car down to my local auto glass shop with the 
new glass, seal and the chrome strip in tow and had them perform the 
task. $80 and 2 hours later the job was done. Same on my TR6 restoration.

As far as the seal, they used nothing and I dont see how any water could 
get past the seal. I have driven my 4 in some of the worst thunderstorms 
here in CNY and no leaks.

I am sure others will post in that they used some sort of sealer. Pick 
your poison I guess.

The rope I used was nylon maybe the diameter of shoelace.

Bob

On 08/24/2013 08:24 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> If anybody out there has installed a windshield in  a TR4 or TR4A I have a
> couple of questions.
> 1. Do I cement the rubber gasket into the windshield frame before I install
> the windshield?
> 2. I have heard that your supposed to use a rope of some kind to pull the
> gasket around the windshield? What type and diameter?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 06:43:59 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:44:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing a windshield in my TR4A (more information)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just came across a really informative Youtube video on installing
windshields;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo

I was planning on doing it completely differently, installing the gasket in
the windshield frame first.. Need to find some of that 3M 8509 sealer..

I will let you know how it goes!

Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 07:36:29 2013
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From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Installing a windshield in my TR4A (more information)
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On 8/24/2013 8:44 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> I just came across a really informative Youtube video on installing
> windshields;
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo
>
> I was planning on doing it completely differently, installing the gasket in
> the windshield frame first.. Need to find some of that 3M 8509 sealer..

I've done dozens of Volkswagen windows, which are similar to Triumphs. 
Never done a Mustang, and so here's my comments, for what they're worth...

1.  I never used a sealer, never had a leak - when the frame and glass 
are clean and intact, and the gasket is of good quality.

2.  I used a rope of somewhat smaller diameter than his - maybe 3/16" or 
1/4" nylon.

3.  Lubricate the gasket with diluted dish soap.  Doesn't take much, 
just make it a little slippery.

4.  I always cross or lap the rope at the bottom, so that you pull the 
first end /past/ the second when you start.  This ensures that you get 
the whole gasket lip over with the rope.

5.  He does the "slapping" just right - flat of the hand, not a fist.

6.  I used a short cotter pin puller with a dull tip to fix any of the 
lip that didn't make it all the way over.  Then push the gasket into 
place, just like you saw him do.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 08:32:46 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 10:28:10 -0400
References: <20130823232041.96WR3.131561.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen those STC tags on cars at shows. Mine is definitely unlike those.
It is closer in appearance to the body number plate but it is not the body
number plate as that also exists and is more closely aligned with the
commission number plate. Someone mentioned a chassis tag. I have seen numbers
stamped on Commission Plates, Body Number Plates, engines, gearboxes and diffs
but I have never seen a tag or stamping on a chassis. The Bentley manual (and
others) show the various plates and stampings but do not show a plate similar
to this or a chassis plate/stamp. Were there numbers on the chassis?

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-08-23, at 7:20 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> ---- Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Generally similar tags have been seen on CA cars that were carried over
>> from one year's inventory to the next (per John Warfield).  The formatting
>> was completely different though -- those tags had something like ST-63 or
>> similar.
>
> FWIW, here's a shot of an STC tag.  I've seen several others, they weren't
always the same color but the size, shape and script was always the same.
> http://tinyurl.com/2awrm8l
> (Sorry for the poor photo, that was my first digital camera and it didn't
have macro mode or even 1/2 megapixel resolution.)
>
> Keith's tag seems to be something different.
>
> Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 11:41:14 2013
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	<1F874B35-9C86-473D-BEFC-3BB103EBC7D1@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 10:41:00 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>, Triumphs
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 7:28 AM, Keith Stewart
<keithstewart@execulink.com>wrote:

> ... Someone mentioned a chassis tag. I have seen numbers
> stamped on Commission Plates, Body Number Plates, engines, gearboxes and
> diffs
> but I have never seen a tag or stamping on a chassis.



Possibly what some call a chassis tag is what others may call a body tag.
On a TR4:

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/ChassisTag2.jpg

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 15:18:24 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 17:17:56 -0400
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To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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 and that is what I have on this car (commission number 1218LO and body
number 1444CT). Those two are within a reasonable spread of one another. The
mystery plate, 411CT, is not consistent with that number range.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-08-24, at 1:41 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 7:28 AM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:
> ... Someone mentioned a chassis tag. I have seen numbers
> stamped on Commission Plates, Body Number Plates, engines, gearboxes and
diffs
> but I have never seen a tag or stamping on a chassis.
>
>
> Possibly what some call a chassis tag is what others may call a body tag.
On a TR4:
>
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/ChassisTag2.jpg
>
> Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 16:05:16 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 18:05:14 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac6hFRwxYBCma0ihTdGul/RT6SiBIg==
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Subject: [TR] Tranny Question
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I have an early TR4 A type overdrive tranny (CT5452)  from my early 62 TR4.
My TR6 trannies have a vent hole on the front of the top cover. I don't see
one on this tranny at all. Is there supposed to be a vent hole on these?  I
would think there would be.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4

75 TR6  

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 24 16:27:08 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 18:26:38 -0400
References: <20130823232041.96WR3.131561.root@cdptpa-web10-z02>
	<1F874B35-9C86-473D-BEFC-3BB103EBC7D1@execulink.com>
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To: Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery S/N or VIN
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My first thoughts were trim and colour but there is no alignment there either
- Wedgwood Blue and Black interior with white top. The Commission Number
plates that showed paint and trim colours came much later. I also have
CT6716LO which is a 62 and it does not have this plate.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-08-24, at 5:38 PM, Michael Porter <mdporter@dfn.com> wrote:

> On 8/24/2013 3:17 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:
>>  and that is what I have on this car (commission number 1218LO and body
>> number 1444CT). Those two are within a reasonable spread of one another.
The
>> mystery plate, 411CT, is not consistent with that number range.
>>
>>
>
> I'm wondering if this was something the factory added for West Coast Sales
to indicate something peculiar to their operation.  The CT is clear enough, so
perhaps the 411 indicated exterior and interior colors, or it could be a
sequential number indicating the running total of that model delivered to West
Coast (West Coast Sales, for a number of years, had some separate arrangements
with the factory from other distributors--they even produced their own
technical bulletins).  I'm pretty sure my TR4 (CT2334L) was original when I
bought it used, and it did not have such a tag, and it came through the
distributor in New Jersey.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Tony Drews'" <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <023a01cea116$039f0a30$0add1e90$@gmail.com>
	<521939c9.86d8420a.3c8e.674dSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 19:34:09 -0400
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks. Found the little pipe near the top of the OD unit on the passenger
side.  I love this list!
Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Drews [mailto:tony@tonydrews.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 6:37 PM
To: James Henningsen
Subject: Re: [TR] Tranny Question

The vent is in the OD.  Kind of a closed off pipe sticking out the top
(right?) with a hole in the side of it.

Tony Drews

At 05:05 PM 8/24/2013, you wrote:
>I have an early TR4 A type overdrive tranny (CT5452)  from my early 62 TR4.
>My TR6 trannies have a vent hole on the front of the top cover. I don't 
>see one on this tranny at all. Is there supposed to be a vent hole on 
>these?  I would think there would be.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Henningsen
>
>Ocala, FL
>
>62 TR4
>
>75 TR6
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 21:50:51 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5217FE4D.3050505@charter.net> <52180086.1020705@dfn.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 trailing arm bushings...
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On 8/23/2013 8:38 PM, Michael Porter wrote:
> On 8/23/2013 6:29 PM, Jeff wrote:
>>
>>
>> And, secondly:  Is there a better way to get the bushings in the
>> trailing arm?
>
> Silicon grease helps, and won't harm the rubber.

That worked about as well as anything...I had some ATE Plastilube.  Made 
the bushings slide easier.  Once they were in, I pulled them back from 
the other direction to center the inner sleeve and make them look like 
they are supposed to look...sort of.

Today, though, I would have given a hundred dollars for a pair of snap 
ring pliers that weren't utter crap.

Thanks, Michael!

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
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References: <013B87003CC047C1A80A4A5CDAC31A20@DaveLaptop>
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Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 19:50:40 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Installing a windshield in my TR4A (more information)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

How about the windshield frame to body gasket. Any sealer Needed?
Johnnie


> On 8/24/2013 8:44 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> > I just came across a really informative Youtube video on installing
> > windshields;
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo
> >
> > I was planning on doing it completely differently, installing the
> > gasket in the windshield frame first.. Need to find some of that 3M
> 8509 sealer..
> 
> I've done dozens of Volkswagen windows, which are similar to Triumphs.
> Never done a Mustang, and so here's my comments, for what they're
> worth...
> 
> 1.  I never used a sealer, never had a leak - when the frame and glass
> are clean and intact, and the gasket is of good quality.
> 
> 2.  I used a rope of somewhat smaller diameter than his - maybe 3/16"
> or 1/4" nylon.
> 
> 3.  Lubricate the gasket with diluted dish soap.  Doesn't take much,
> just make it a little slippery.
> 
> 4.  I always cross or lap the rope at the bottom, so that you pull the
> first end /past/ the second when you start.  This ensures that you get
> the whole gasket lip over with the rope.
> 
> 5.  He does the "slapping" just right - flat of the hand, not a fist.
> 
> 6.  I used a short cotter pin puller with a dull tip to fix any of the
> lip that didn't make it all the way over.  Then push the gasket into
> place, just like you saw him do.
> 
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Installing a windshield in my TR4A (more information)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had to resort to Dum Dum to stop a leak at that point on my TR6.  In theory,
if the rubber is nice and compressible and if you can get enough compression
you shouldn't need sealer but in the real world...


Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>


How about the windshield frame to body gasket. Any sealer Needed?
Johnnie


> On 8/24/2013 8:44 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> > I just came across a really informative Youtube video on installing
> > windshields;
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo
> >
> > I was planning on doing it completely differently, installing the
> > gasket in the windshield frame first.. Need to find some of that 3M
> 8509 sealer..
>
> I've done dozens of Volkswagen windows, which are similar to Triumphs.
> Never done a Mustang, and so here's my comments, for what they're
> worth...
>
> 1.  I never used a sealer, never had a leak - when the frame and glass
> are clean and intact, and the gasket is of good quality.
>
> 2.  I used a rope of somewhat smaller diameter than his - maybe 3/16"
> or 1/4" nylon.
>
> 3.  Lubricate the gasket with diluted dish soap.  Doesn't take much,
> just make it a little slippery.
>
> 4.  I always cross or lap the rope at the bottom, so that you pull the
> first end /past/ the second when you start.  This ensures that you get
> the whole gasket lip over with the rope.
>
> 5.  He does the "slapping" just right - flat of the hand, not a fist.
>
> 6.  I used a short cotter pin puller with a dull tip to fix any of the
> lip that didn't make it all the way over.  Then push the gasket into
> place, just like you saw him do.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 13:01:10 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:00:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] harness
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I was told this is a tr2 harness.  can anyone verify/deny?

thanks

http://www.ranteer.com/harness/

btw b Ibm planning on putting it on ebay, so if someone needs it, make me
an offer.  I also have the voltage regulator and license plate light that goes
with it.  the light is definitely tr2/3

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 14:10:56 2013
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 13:10:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] harness
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Dave --

Those grey connectors were used on TR4s though an original TR4 harness
would have been wrapped in blue non-stick tape (though this one may have
been re-wrapped in electrical tape).

I am not real familiar with the TR2 but perhaps those 3 wires for the wiper
motor provide a clue -- look like the TR3A-TR4 set-up there.

Does the paper tag on the harness offer any clue?

Geo


On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 12:00 PM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> I was told this is a tr2 harness.  can anyone verify/deny?
>
> thanks
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/harness/
>
> btw b  Ib m planning on putting it on ebay, so if someone needs it, make me
> an offer.  I also have the voltage regulator and license plate light that
> goes
> with it.  the light is definitely tr2/3
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:56:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] cooling tr-3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a question.  My tr-3 is running well but I have a concern about cooling. 
My guage doesn't show the correct temperature so I don't have a good measure
of what's going on.  I have an electric fan.  I have been measuring the temp
with a meat thermometer shoved between the fins to get some idea and come up
with temps in the range of 190 to 210.  These measurements are taken after a
run with engine idling.  I have a new 4lb. radiator cap.

The last two drives
have resulted in puddles under the car coming from the overflow bottle.  The
bottle has a screw on lid so the fluid must be fairly pressurized as its
coming through the lid (or maybe the push on tube into the bottom of the
bottle although there is some liquid up around the lid).  After both runs I've
checked the fluid in the radiator and its down at least an inch and
half.........almost the bottom of the radiator fill resevoir.

My conclusion
is that some time during a drive (approx 25 miles) the radiator is boiling and
pushing out fluid........or can it push out fluid without boiling?  At any
rate I'm assuming that when fluid is pushed out........it later should be
sucked back into the radiator and thats not happening.  My overflow bottle was
also almost full after the cool down after the last two drives .......when I
think it should be at normal level.

Any thoughts or ideas?

gary n.

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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 22:12:40 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] harness
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---- Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote: 
> I was told this is a tr2 harness.  can anyone verify/deny?

Nope, don't think so.  TR2 used only bullets and bare wires, there were no 'Lucar' connectors (aka flat quick connects) and I see quite a few of them on that harness. They also didn't use colored PVC insulation back then, let alone PVC tape.  The original wires would have had black rubber inner insulation (which I think is natural rubber, but never tried to find out for sure), then an outer cloth layer on each wire (originally colored but now faded to brown), and woven cloth over the harness as well.  Clearly not an original TR2 harness.

You can see some of the original harness in this shot of my late TR3:
http://tinyurl.com/mhbzzhy
(The PVC wires in the photo were added by me, originally from my early TR3A.)

As Geo noted, I think the wires for the wiper motor are wrong (TR2 made the ground connection at the dash, not at the motor); and I think I see wires for the 'beehive' lamps in the rear (which of course the TR2 did not have) plus no wire for the center brake light on a TR2.  I'm guessing that is a late TR3A harness, or maybe TR4.  

Lots of ebay seller pretend to not know the difference.  One of them assured me that the brake rotors he had for sale would fit my TR2 <g>

Randall

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Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 23:51:24 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  Gary Nafziger
	<nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] cooling tr-3
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---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> My conclusion
> is that some time during a drive (approx 25 miles) the radiator is boiling and
> pushing out fluid........or can it push out fluid without boiling?  At any
> rate I'm assuming that when fluid is pushed out........it later should be
> sucked back into the radiator and thats not happening.  My overflow bottle was
> also almost full after the cool down after the last two drives .......when I
> think it should be at normal level.
> 
> Any thoughts or ideas?

Several possibilities.  The coolant does expand when it gets hot, so if you fill everything full, it will get pushed out while driving.

The original 4 psi caps were not designed to be used with a recovery bottle; they leak and allow air back into the radiator.  Especially with the bottle down low (about the only place to mount it on a TR3), the cap has to hold some vacuum to pull the water back up.  I tried adding a rubber gasket, and sealing the rivet with silicone sealer, but never could get it to suck water up.  For awhile I ran a modern cap that I modified to match the longer TR3 fill neck; but now I have the neck replaced so I can use most modern caps.  The cost was only $20 or so while the radiator was in for service anyway.

I've also had problems in the past with water pumps that would suck air.  If your bottle is mounted below the level of the water pump, that might be an issue.  Or the water pump might just be losing water slowly while driving, as my current pump seems to be doing.

Another possibility of course is a leaking head gasket.  I've spent literally years fighting with head gaskets that only leak a little bit, and only combustion gases into the water jacket while accelerating.  If the leak is small enough, the air works it's way into the top of the radiator and forces water out the cap, but doesn't interrupt the flow enough to cause a boil-over.  My 59 TR3A was actually more or less drivable that way, with the system low by a half gallon or so, as long as I didn't get into any big traffic jams or whatever.

Any radiator shop can test for this condition, with a tool that checks the CO2 concentration in the air in the radiator.  Although my shop charged less than $20, I went ahead and bought the "Block Tester" tool so I can do it myself.

Randall

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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 20:41:52 -0400
Thread-index: Ac6h83LI7AHKnG3RR6q4VFYQSNok6w==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 flasher test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

How would I test the flasher?   Tail lights & front lamps work ok when
lights turned on.  but nothing happens when I turn on the turn signal.  

Green wire at flasher is receiving current.  I don't hear any tell-tale
clicking but not sure I could.

Sockets and lamps test ok (direct connect from battery) but I have nothing
coming through the wires.  

I tested with direct connection from socket ground to battery to make sure
it wasn't a grounding issue.

 

I tried jumping from G to both output wires but nothing happened which makes
me think it might be the flasher but not really sure.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Aug 25 19:09:36 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cea1f5$0ed7b480$2c871d80$@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 21:09:21 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 flasher test
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FYI - I am testing with regular 1156 & 1157 lamps.
C

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:42 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3 flasher test

How would I test the flasher?   Tail lights & front lamps work ok when
lights turned on.  but nothing happens when I turn on the turn signal.  

Green wire at flasher is receiving current.  I don't hear any tell-tale
clicking but not sure I could.

Sockets and lamps test ok (direct connect from battery) but I have nothing
coming through the wires.  

I tested with direct connection from socket ground to battery to make sure
it wasn't a grounding issue.

 

I tried jumping from G to both output wires but nothing happened which makes
me think it might be the flasher but not really sure.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 2:02:53 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>, cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 flasher test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote: 
> How would I test the flasher?   Tail lights & front lamps work ok when
> lights turned on.  but nothing happens when I turn on the turn signal.  

They're kind of tricky, because the stock flasher is designed to only work within a narrow range of current.  In theory, that is to let you (the driver) know when a bulb is burned out.  You'll need about 4-5 amps, about 3 ohms (and 50 watts).  Probably easier to make up a dummy load from a couple of bulbs (but be sure to wire the stop/turn filament, as the tail filament doesn't draw enough current).

> I tried jumping from G to both output wires but nothing happened which makes
> me think it might be the flasher but not really sure.

That would lead me to believe just the opposite.  Did you have the ignition switch and turn switch both on at the time?  Check that there was still power on green with the jumper in place?  Jumpering green to one output should light the dash lamp, the other light both signals on the side selected at the switch.  If that doesn't work, fix it first and then go back to the flasher.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 07:50:55 2013
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 06:50:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] WTB - TR6 Hood
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     A while back someone in Southern California mentioned that they have a
straight TR6 hood (bonnet) that they could sell me. If you still have it, give
me an email off list.
     Thanks,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 08:47:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] cooling tr-3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not sure that using the stock cap will allow for fluiff recovery from an
overflow bottle.
when I inspect my fluiff level it is always low. maybe a
little more than your description. but of course as water heats up it expands
and I'm assuming gets the filler neck pretty full'ish.
I have bought but not
yet fitted an overflow reservoir from a later MGB. they are made of brass and
painted black. I'm in the process of removing the paint and polishing to
bright finish.
my intent is to replace the stock cap with a TR4 oil filler
cap. then run a hose to the MGB reservoir and find a modern depth 4lb cap for
the reservoir.
hose clamps required of course.
ill let you know how this works
for me when I get it finished
 
Frank
 
 
 

________________________________
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 2:56 PM
Subject: [TR]
cooling tr-3
  

Just a question.  My tr-3 is running well but I have a
concern about cooling. 
My guage doesn't show the correct temperature so I
don't have a good measure
of what's going on.  I have an electric fan.  I have
been measuring the temp
with a meat thermometer shoved between the fins to get
some idea and come up
with temps in the range of 190 to 210.  These
measurements are taken after a
run with engine idling.  I have a new 4lb.
radiator cap.

The last two drives
have resulted in puddles under the car
coming from the overflow bottle.  The
bottle has a screw on lid so the fluid
must be fairly pressurized as its
coming through the lid (or maybe the push on
tube into the bottom of the
bottle although there is some liquid up around the
lid).  After both runs I've
checked the fluid in the radiator and its down at
least an inch and
half.........almost the bottom of the radiator fill
resevoir.

My conclusion
is that some time during a drive (approx 25 miles)
the radiator is boiling and
pushing out fluid........or can it push out fluid
without boiling?  At any
rate I'm assuming that when fluid is pushed
out........it later should be
sucked back into the radiator and thats not
happening.  My overflow bottle was
also almost full after the cool down after
the last two drives .......when I
think it should be at normal level.

Any
thoughts or ideas?

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 15:55:04 -0400
From: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 Powder Blue Paint Color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have any definitive information about paint color codes for
Powder Blue in our modern era? I would love to here from you.

Will Daehler

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <8D070BC1BE453BF-178C-14B36@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:43:36 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [TR] Fwd: External Oiler to Head
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I just rebuilt a 1973 Spitfire 1500 engine that had spun a rod bearing (#3, of
course).  An external oiler line had been connected to the cylinder head.
Since the bottom end apparently had too little oil supply (I know about 1500
cranks), the external line is suspect, in my mind.


I don't want to reinstall it on the fresh engine, thinking I'd rather have the
oil going where it will do the most good: the crankshaft.
Rockers are easy to replace by comparison.


Without getting into a big controversy, would the group agree?


George Haynes

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Aug 26 16:00:50 2013
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Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 18:00:37 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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	<8D070BC73CA1E8C-178C-14B92@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: External Oiler to Head
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

George,

I have never been a fan of this setup. If there is not enough oil 
flowing up to the rockers then maybe it is time to rebuild the engine.

I have heard stories that this setup can lead to excessive oil consumption.

All 3 of my Triumph engines have been rebuilt within the last 5 years 
and I have no problem with oil flow to the rockers.

Once you start up your fresh Spit engine, you should get plenty of oil 
for the rockers. If not then something is wrong.

Band aids are good for small cuts and are temporary in application.

Bob

On 08/26/2013 05:43 PM, George Haynes wrote:
> I just rebuilt a 1973 Spitfire 1500 engine that had spun a rod bearing (#3, of
> course).  An external oiler line had been connected to the cylinder head.
> Since the bottom end apparently had too little oil supply (I know about 1500
> cranks), the external line is suspect, in my mind.
>
>
> I don't want to reinstall it on the fresh engine, thinking I'd rather have the
> oil going where it will do the most good: the crankshaft.
> Rockers are easy to replace by comparison.
>
>
> Without getting into a big controversy, would the group agree?
>
>
> George Haynes

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Will Daehler'" <will.daehler@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CA+bCZ+RZ+UyEOL2neLkLV_ek0s=RH0O-r4ddi7ieRpAj1y394Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 00:10:20 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6ilkb7H01xPdjWQ2aQp8QXTN1hkQASQ8BQ
Subject: Re: [TR] 63 TR4 Powder Blue Paint Color
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Will,

>From an early Powder Blue TR4 owner in our club: "Powder blue was only used
on early 4s up to ct20916 in march of 63 as well as spa white, a cream and
early British racing green."


The Codes I found were: ICI-8013 or PPG-12163 Used on TR3A from 1958, TR4
thtough 1963 and Spitfire4 Through 1963.

Here are the two sites that I used:

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphcolors/index.html#colors

http://www.trregisterfrance.com/meca/paint.htm


Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On







-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Will Daehler
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 2:55 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 Powder Blue Paint Color

Does anyone have any definitive information about paint color codes for
Powder Blue in our modern era? I would love to here from you.

Will Daehler

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 03:29:48 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1974 Brake calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I guess my subject line ask's the question.  My right front
caliper is broken; so says my mechanic.  AND he can't
seem to find a new one.  Says they are "on national back order".  Come on
Triumph owners, let's show him the
error of his ways.  Know where I can lay my hands on one?
Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 06:31:09 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 08:30:55 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 Brake calipers
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What car?  Have you considered getting a used one and having it 
professionally refurbished?



In a message dated 8/27/2013 2:29:59 AM Central Daylight Time, 
rivers2hills@yahoo.com writes: 
> I guess my subject line ask's the question.  My right front
> caliper is broken; so says my mechanic.  AND he can't
> seem to find a new one.  Says they are "on national back order".  Come on
> Triumph owners, let's show him the
> error of his ways.  Know where I can lay my hands on one?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 08:35:49 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33c9521c9d257d16
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: External Oiler to Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the general consensus on this list is that these oilers are a 
solution in search of a problem.  Unless you have a blockage in the regular oil 
passage you don't need it and the associated problems.  

Dave

In a message dated 8/26/2013 4:43:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ghaynestr4@aol.com writes: 
> I just rebuilt a 1973 Spitfire 1500 engine that had spun a rod bearing 
> (#3, of
> course).  An external oiler line had been connected to the cylinder head.
> Since the bottom end apparently had too little oil supply (I know about 
> 1500
> cranks), the external line is suspect, in my mind.
> 
> 
> I don't want to reinstall it on the fresh engine, thinking I'd rather have 
> the
> oil going where it will do the most good: the crankshaft.
> Rockers are easy to replace by comparison.
> 
> 
> Without getting into a big controversy, would the group agree?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 08:49:34 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <ff05.7542ede.3f4df5ff@cs.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 09:44:36 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 Brake calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I know of at least one place that will rebuild them.  contact me if you need 
that info.  their shipping is quite reasonable.  unless its physically 
broken up


In a message dated 8/27/2013 2:29:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
rivers2hills@yahoo.com writes:
> I guess my subject line ask's the question.  My right front
> caliper is broken; so says my mechanic.  AND he can't
> seem to find a new one.  Says they are "on national back order".  Come on
> Triumph owners, let's show him the
> error of his ways.  Know where I can lay my hands on one?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 08:36:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, John Summers
	<rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 Brake calipers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Oreillyauto.com has them listed in stock for $46.99 + CORE.....limited lifetime warranty.

Chad in Tulsa

Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 11:02:59 2013
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From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Angelo Graham'" <agraham@execulink.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:01:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac6fogInNwniwQxURJS+HTo7t2o21gDo/5Ag
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - transmission tunnel install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> but what about the gear shift? Just the knob come 
> off or does 
> the entire lever come out?

With care, you can leave the whole thing in place.  But it probably makes
more sense to at least remove the knob, rather than risk getting it messy.

> I have to fish the o/d wiring through the 
> hole in the side of the tunnel - is there a grommet supposed to be 
> there? My tunnel is already carpeted (glued on), so this 
> might be a problem.

FWIW, I gave up on using the hole in the side, routed the wires up the face
of the firewall and through a grommet up there instead.  Not "as original",
but more practical IMO.

> Anything I'm missing here or what to look out for?

Get all the bolts started first, by just a few threads so you have maximum
room to line up the next hole.  I find a tapered punch to be helpful
sometimes (put in one hole to line up the one next to it).  At the rear, I
use bolts that are longer than original to get it seated then later (maybe)
swap them out.  I use big flat washers (aka fender washers) ground to a
D-shape to spread the load as far as possible.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 13:22:00 2013
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	<8D070BC73CA1E8C-178C-14B92@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 20:19:11 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: External Oiler to Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

George, I think opinion on these things is divided on this list but in my
experience in the majority of cases, the 'unknowing' fit this external feed
because they want to ensure an adequate supply of lube to the rockers. What
many never do is try to work out why the oil isn't getting where it should.
For normal road use and assuming your camshaft isn't worn into oblivion (and
therefore not pumping oil up to where it's needed) the most likely reason for
a restricted supply is dirt in the rocker shaft, dirt in the drillings of the
rocker pedestals and dirt in the outlets on the shaft to the rockers
themselves. David Ealey who designed the 4 and 6 cylinder engines adamantly
maintained an external feed was a waste of time and money as all the rockers
need (for normal road use) is a steady trickle. You'll find an hour or two of
stripping the rockers from the shaft, some de-greasing fluid and a thin rod of
welding wire as a sort of 'push' or 'pull' through and some compressed air is
all you need to ensure a satisfactory flow. 
If you do this, then run the
engine on idle for five minutes or so with the valve cover off and watch oil
being flicked on to panelwork and around the engine itself, you'll be assured
the system is working as designed.

John

From: George Haynes
<ghaynestr4@aol.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Monday, 26 August
2013, 22:43
>Subject: [TR] Fwd: External Oiler to Head
>
>
>I just rebuilt a
1973 Spitfire 1500 engine that had spun a rod bearing (#3, of
>course).  An
external oiler line had been connected to the cylinder head.
>Since the bottom
end apparently had too little oil supply (I know about 1500
>cranks), the
external line is suspect, in my mind.
>
>
>I don't want to reinstall it on the
fresh engine, thinking I'd rather have the
>oil going where it will do the
most good: the crankshaft.
>Rockers are easy to replace by comparison.
>
>
>Without getting into a big controversy, would the group agree?
>
>
>George
Haynes
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Aug 27 15:38:55 2013
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References: <5216BC53.4080402@execulink.com>
	<06.10.02184.B5BDC125@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 17:37:25 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - transmission tunnel install
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 on the d shaped washers
On Aug 27, 2013 1:03 PM, "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > but what about the gear shift? Just the knob come
> > off or does
> > the entire lever come out?
>
> With care, you can leave the whole thing in place.  But it probably makes
> more sense to at least remove the knob, rather than risk getting it messy.
>
> > I have to fish the o/d wiring through the
> > hole in the side of the tunnel - is there a grommet supposed to be
> > there? My tunnel is already carpeted (glued on), so this
> > might be a problem.
>
> FWIW, I gave up on using the hole in the side, routed the wires up the face
> of the firewall and through a grommet up there instead.  Not "as original",
> but more practical IMO.
>
> > Anything I'm missing here or what to look out for?
>
> Get all the bolts started first, by just a few threads so you have maximum
> room to line up the next hole.  I find a tapered punch to be helpful
> sometimes (put in one hole to line up the one next to it).  At the rear, I
> use bolts that are longer than original to get it seated then later (maybe)
> swap them out.  I use big flat washers (aka fender washers) ground to a
> D-shape to spread the load as far as possible.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@gmail.com

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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 16:43:37 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: triumph list list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 and the Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The vintage Webers are acting up. Now the problem is cutting out at "high"
speed, like 60-65. This has not happened before. Following a suggestion, I
choked the carbs just a touch while at the high RPMs and that seemed to
help.
Could be the coil, I suppose, but that is fairly new. The only change in
the system has been to add an electric fuel pump. Could the pump be pushing
at insufficient pressure at high RPMS?
The mixture screws have been adjusted according to the book, and opening
them up did not help. I cruise around town at low speeds without a problem.
Any and all ideas are welcome.
Many thanks

John Howard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 18:41:13 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <CANLCLaFA0eAFGwhM0SKZ3H4FHsV-0nC5CbwtcuirY6a0wU5HSQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<F6EE39A904F441789C41F73F37158FDF@dragonlairii>
Subject: Re: [TR] color coding of wires used in Triumphs
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http://www.tr3a.info/Lucaswirecodes.htm

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Aug 28 22:58:22 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 04:57:52 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Trip to TRF Summer Party and Lotus Owners Gathering
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Some pix on the LOONY site.  

Some autocross pix
http://www.lotusowners.com/2013Meetings/LOG33/Set11/pages/P1000317_jpg.htm
http://www.lotusowners.com/2013Meetings/LOG33/Set11/pages/P1000334_jpg.htm

Got in a plug for TRF whilst showing off my trophies.  The young chap is Brian Vaccaro, the co- Meet Head.

http://www.lotusowners.com/2013Meetings/LOG33/Set11/pages/P1000356_jpg.htm

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 08:01:37 2013
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From: Daniel Shockey <magnut_dan@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 13:59:27 +0000
	FILETIME=[F9B8CDF0:01CEA4BF]
Subject: [TR] Spitfire for Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I am forced to offer my 1980 Spitfire for sale. It is located near Peoria,
Illinois. It has beautiful red paint, new vinyl seat covers, a new top, new
cocoa mats, new rear air shocks, plus a tonneau and overdrive transmission. No
rust. Runs very well. It is a really nice car. I hate to let it go. I have
manuals, spare parts and history. See the listing at:
http://peoria.craigslist.org/cto/4030719108.html

Thank you,  Dan Shockey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 12:35:24 2013
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:11 GMT
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire for Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Beautiful Spit Dan.Sorry you have to sell.  Good Luck! Matt
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Daniel Shockey <magnut_dan@hotmail.com>

I am forced to offer my 1980 Spitfire for sale. See the listing at:
http://peoria.craigslist.org/cto/4030719108.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 13:25:00 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Subject: [TR] External Oil Line Post Script
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

To all who aided in my decision to remove the external oil line from the
Spitfire engine I rebuilt:


Now that it's running again, I can peek under the oil filler cap and see that
there is plenty of oil reaching the rockers.


Thanks for your collective - and unanimous - advice!


George

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 13:50:59 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 12:50:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Source for British key code information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Over a period of time, when car owner lost their keys or new owner purchase
of
a used car without keys, refer them to the BHMC. The cost for the car build
record was 25 pounds or so. I made a suggestion to offer a service for
car
owners to get just the car key code numbers.
 
I what to share with you the
information below. Very quick service from BHMC.

 Sent: Tuesday, August 27,
2013 2:56 PM
Subject: RE: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code number -
Suggestion
Pete - Looks like the heritage guys are pretty quick!
Date:
Tuesday, August 27, 2013
Subject: Web Enquiry Service
Thank you for your
enquiry. The recorded key numbers for MGB, chassis number G-HN5-UF/370094-G
are FS.878, FT.216 and 2159.


Regards
Richard
		Bacchus
Certificate Officer
British Motor Industry Heritage
		Trust
Heritage Motor Centre

 Sent: Monday,
August 26, 2013 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code
number - Suggestion
 Jim Pete here. See data below and my suggestion.


 Car
build record 
You need to contact the British Heritage Motor Centre in the UK
by e-mail. Look at the price list. Ask for the car key code numbers (cost 6
pounds). Provide your car data, year, make, model and Vin number data.
B Base on this information, can cut you a key to on American key blanks.
http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archiv
e-services/archive-research-services.html  
Archive Research Service B#6.00
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:39 AM
Subject:1975 MG keys  


Pete
 I seem
to have lost my keys for my 75 MGB. Unfortunately, whether code is work off
the face of the ignition, or was never there, I canbt seem to see any
numbers.

When I get a inquiry, not sure how the person found me as a source
for keys. In this case, Jim from Canada contact me.
I do appreciate the
referrals.

Kind regards

Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
Ellicott City MD USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:22:18 BST
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References: <1377805813.65196.YahooMailNeo@web163804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:22:18 +0100 (BST)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for British key code information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A very good bloke, my friend Richard. Glad he helped out but he's that kind of
guy


Jonmac

From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
>To:
"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Thursday, 29
August 2013, 20:50
>Subject: [TR] Source for British key code information
>
>
>Over a period of time, when car owner lost their keys or new owner purchase
>of
>a used car without keys, refer them to the BHMC. The cost for the car
build
>record was 25 pounds or so. I made a suggestion to offer a service for
>car
>owners to get just the car key code numbers.
>
>I what to share with you
the
>information below. Very quick service from BHMC.
>
>Sent: Tuesday, August
27,
>2013 2:56 PM
>Subject: RE: 1975 MG - cost and source for key code number
-
>Suggestion
>Pete - Looks like the heritage guys are pretty quick!
>Date:
>Tuesday, August 27, 2013
>Subject: Web Enquiry Service
>Thank you for your
>enquiry. The recorded key numbers for MGB, chassis number G-HN5-UF/370094-G
>are FS.878, FT.216 and 2159.
>
>
>Regards
>Richard
>        Bacchus
>Certificate Officer
>British Motor Industry Heritage
>        Trust
>Heritage
Motor Centre
>
>Sent: Monday,
>August 26, 2013 11:30 AM
>Subject: Re: 1975 MG
- cost and source for key code
>number - Suggestion
>Jim Pete here. See data
below and my suggestion.
>
>
>Car
>build record 
>You need to contact the
British Heritage Motor Centre in the UK
>by e-mail. Look at the price list.
Ask for the car key code numbers (cost 6
>pounds). Provide your car data,
year, make, model and Vin number data.
>B Base on this information, can cut
you a key to on American key blanks.
>http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-and-archiv
>e-services/archive-research-services.html  
>Archive Research Service B#6.00
>Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:39 AM
>Subject:1975 MG keys  
>
>
>Pete
>I
seem
>to have lost my keys for my 75 MGB. Unfortunately, whether code is work
off
>the face of the ignition, or was never there, I canbt seem to see any
>numbers.
>
>When I get a inquiry, not sure how the person found me as a
source
>for keys. In this case, Jim from Canada contact me.
>I do appreciate
the
>referrals.
>
>Kind regards
>
>Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
>Ellicott City MD USA
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john@yahoo.co.uk

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 13:46:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Flushing Brake System
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     What does one use to flush out the brake hydraulic system when converting
over to Dot 5? I think that they say "methylated spirits" or something like
that. What does that mean in American English? Does lacquer thinner work or
does that eat up the plastic parts? I may just blow it out and then flush the
Dot 5 through.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 14:53:07 2013
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From: Harrymague@aol.com
Full-name: Harrymague
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 16:48:39 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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	bh=6le8YqOiefwjT70B+azEZYin3fgroVnKBSf8i1JMuao=;
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Subject: [TR] Steering Rack Quick Ratio
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a way to "grease" the quick ratio steering rack???  The  standard 
rack you could take off the bolt where the electrical ground and  connect it 
to a grease gun.  One a my rubber boots broke and I want to  grease the 
rack, but can't figure out how.  Thanks in advance.
Harry M
1974 TR6
CF16623

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 14:07:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Palmer <tr6driver@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR8 Pre-production Coupe for sale (unfortunately)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Unfortunately, I do have to sell our pre-production coupe.  Those of you at
the South Central British Car Gathering this April saw it on literally it's
first two days back on the road, including it's premature exit from the
autocross when the fuel gauge float wire broke and shorted across the fuel
pump terminals (what are the odds of that!).  Things are considerably improved
now with a new pump and new sending unit :-).  

ACN1078 is Inca Yellow/green
tartan plaid interior.  5-speed. 
Webasto sunroof, 29,300 original miles.  Car
has no rust to speak of.  Been
painted once, was a pretty decent but not show
quality job.  Cannot find any
signs of ever being in an accident of any sort.
Car was sold originally to Bob Tullius/Group 44 (have a memo from JRT to that
effect) and was supposedly
intended to be a replacement/spare shell for the
TR8 race cars...which was
not needed as they weren't wrecked.  I have heard
that it stayed in the
Group 44 showroom for 6 years before eventually being
sold.  2nd owner put
most of the current miles on the car.  Car was outfitted
with an Offenhauser
manifold and an Edelbrock 4bbl as well as some really nice
tube headers.  I
don't have a lot of TR8 experience, but it's considerably
quicker than the
other two TR8's I've driven and will flat out throw you back
in the seat.

2nd owner sold it along with his house and a Jaguar to the guy I
bought it from.  He liked the
Jaguar better and stored the TR8 indoors, only
putting 27 miles on the car
during his ownership.  That makes me technically
the fourth owner unless you
count JRT.

When I purchased the car, it needed a
fuel pump, carb rebuild, shifter
bushing replacement and some general sorting,
which is now all complete.  It
could use new tires (plenty of tread but they
are old--the spare is the
original!) and I would certainly replace
shocks/struts and a few other
little things.  Steering rack responded
positively to some correct fluid and
it steers nicely, although the firewall
bushing is non-existant.  Radio is
original and only works through right
speaker...that being said it sounds
WAY too nice to listen to the radio...I've
driven it ~150 miles in the past
week and I'm having to park it because I keep
trying to figure out ways to
keep it...I have it stored indoors as well.
 Apart from the manifold/header
& carb, the car is incredibly original, down
to the dated spark plug wires
(I DID replace what I believe may have been the
original N9Y Champions when
I got the car).

Car comes with TRF
receipts from
Group 44 along with other documentation, including all the
original owner's
manual and various brochures.

$9500 obo.  I do need to sell it,
unfortunately, so you have the advantage--no trades, either.  

Jack McGahey
drove the car Saturday as a favor to me, so if you want an
independent opinion
please ask him.  It was interesting to compare it to his
ACN3 inca yellow
pre-production coupe.  He agreed that it's VERY quick for a TR8 and must have
at least a performance cam to feel the way it does.

I have posted pictures in
this album. 
http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/ChumpCarDriver/library/TR8%20For%20Sale)  
If you are interested, please email me off list at tr6driver@yahoo.com.

The
car is in Raleigh, North Carolina.  Thanks for reading.

Jamie Palmer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1377809215.21417.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 16:21:53 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac6k+awCJv5e6z5JSsKRxicWp3i62QAA8JPA
Subject: Re: [TR] Flushing Brake System
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just blow it out and flush the DOT5 through, no biggie.  Be careful blowing
the old DOT3, don't let it get on any painted surfaces.

Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 3:47 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Flushing Brake System

     What does one use to flush out the brake hydraulic system when
converting over to Dot 5? I think that they say "methylated spirits" or
something like that. What does that mean in American English? Does lacquer
thinner work or does that eat up the plastic parts? I may just blow it out
and then flush the Dot 5 through.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 15:37:48 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 14:37:21 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Flushing Brake System
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill -

I just did a British car and used the same method as I did on my 2 TRs --
sucked as much of the old juice out of the reservoirs as I could, then
filled them with DOT5.  Let it sit awhile (overnight was what I did) then
bled everywhere as usual until the fluid coming out was purple.

My TRs got this treatment 12 years ago and have those brakes have never
giving me any trouble.

Insert the usual disclaimer here -- YMMV, for information only, comments
are not the views of the producers or Sony International, professional
driver on a closed course - do not attempt, etc.

Geo


On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 1:46 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>      What does one use to flush out the brake hydraulic system when
> converting
> over to Dot 5? I think that they say "methylated spirits" or something like
> that. What does that mean in American English? Does lacquer thinner work or
> does that eat up the plastic parts? I may just blow it out and then flush
> the
> Dot 5 through.
>      TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:52:51 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Flushing Brake System
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---- William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote: 
>      What does one use to flush out the brake hydraulic system when converting
> over to Dot 5? I think that they say "methylated spirits" or something like
> that. What does that mean in American English? Does lacquer thinner work or
> does that eat up the plastic parts? I may just blow it out and then flush the
> Dot 5 through.

Like Geo said, my current preference is to flush it with DOT 5.  However, if you insist on using a solvent, my understanding is that methanol (aka methyl alcohol, aka wood alcohol) is safest.  That isn't the same (so I'm told) as "methylated spirits" (which are more like our denatured alcohol).

My local drug store had methanol, but they keep it behind the counter.  It's not a controlled substance, but is kind of poisonous and not something you'd want to use on your skin or in the punch bowl.  The pharmacist looked at me funny when I explained why I wanted it, but handed me the bottle.  Home Depot probably has it as well, but at the time the drug store was a lot closer to home.  (Now the drug store is gone and Home Depot is close by, go figure.)

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Aug 29 16:57:23 2013
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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 22:57:10 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Flushing Brake System
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> I also just drained some dot 3 into a bleeder bottle that previously only had dot 5 in it last night.  Nothing fizzled, smoked, blew up, coagulated or anything like that.  
> Buy it does appear to be separated in the bottle, one on top, the other on the bottom.  

Yup, the DOT standard says that they have to be "compatible".  But they don't mix at all, kind of like oil and water.  Nelson wrote an article for Buckeye Triumphs that shows it very nicely.  He put DOT 4 and DOT 5 both in a baby food jar and shook it up.  The entertaining (to me) result is that the purple color moved from being on top to being on the bottom!

Randall

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:52:57 -0600
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Subject: [TR] Unused VTR reservation at Host Hotel?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have a Embassy Suites hotel reservation at the group rate that  
they are not going to use after all?

The deadline for early registration has almost arrived so if it's a no  
go for you to go to VTR but you made a Embassy Suites reservation  
please let me know. Usually the hotel will simply change the name on  
the reservation once they receive the needed information from us both.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:05:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Bonnet Latch & Spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     The pop up spring on my 1974 TR6 seems to be overly stiff. You have to
press down ridiculously hard to close the bonnet. I think that it is the
original. Does anyone cut the spring down to make it easier to use? Maybe
someone has replaced the spring in this one sometime over the last 40 years
and put the wrong spring in.
     Another thing about the latch. It seems that
the safety catch is unnecessary because it is a forward opening hood (bonnet).
It is a pain in the ass to fool with when opening up the hood. Does anyone
remove the safety catch? Are there caveats like it can suck open if the latch
comes undone or something?
    TIA

     -Bill in Tehachapi

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Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:08:58 -0700
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To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Bonnet Latch & Spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Aug 29, 2013, at 9:05 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>  Another thing about the latch. It seems that
> the safety catch is unnecessary because it is a forward opening hood
(bonnet).
> It is a pain in the ass to fool with when opening up the hood. Does anyone
> remove the safety catch? Are there caveats like it can suck open if the
latch
> comes undone or something?

The TR4/4A don't have a safety catch.  The hood will lift a bit at speed (I
had a problem for a while where a good bump would pop the latch), but not more
than a inch or so.  I would guess the TR6 aerodynamics are similar.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 07:58:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1377809215.21417.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Flushing Brake System
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On 8/29/13 1:46 PM, William Brewer wrote:
>       What does one use to flush out the brake hydraulic system when converting
> over to Dot 5? I think that they say "methylated spirits" or something like
> that. What does that mean in American English? Does lacquer thinner work or
> does that eat up the plastic parts? I may just blow it out and then flush the
> Dot 5 through.
>
Just regular rubbing alcohol would do the job.  You should replace all 
the rubber in the system as well.  new flex hoses & new cylinder 
pistons.  DOT4 and DOT 5 both affect the properties of the rubber but in 
different ways.  You can end up with a seal leak if they have had long 
term exposure to both types of fluid.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 18:35:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: british-cars@autox.team.net
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Red Ensign flag of Phil Ethier?
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Checking through my stuff, and I can't find my Red Ensign.  Did I leave it flying someplace at the TRF Summer Party or the Lotus Owners Gathering?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 11:47:12 -0700
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not
 permitted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Lately I've been seeing some vehicles for sale on the site it was my
understanding that you can't list vehicles for sale on the site would someone
please give me the correct answer to that question can or can you not list for
sale vehicles on this website? Thanks JT

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 30 12:50:34 2013
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not
 permitted
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Where did you get the idea that you can't advertize a car (particularly a Triumph) on this list?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "JT" <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 1:47:12 PM
> Subject: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not permitted
> Lately I've been seeing some vehicles for sale on the site it was my
> understanding that you can't list vehicles for sale on the site would
> someone
> please give me the correct answer to that question can or can you not
> list for
> sale vehicles on this website? Thanks JT

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 30 13:12:26 2013
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References: <650DAA71-921E-41C4-A5C3-C31D88F73479@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 12:12:13 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not
 permitted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The are a couple of sites (forums) I frequent that do not allow 'for sale'
or 'wanted' posts amid the general conversation -- but those sites also
have specific places where such posts should be placed.

So far as I know, there is no admonition against such posts here.

Geo


On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM, JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Lately I've been seeing some vehicles for sale on the site it was my
> understanding that you can't list vehicles for sale on the site would
> someone
> please give me the correct answer to that question can or can you not list
> for
> sale vehicles on this website? Thanks JT
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 19:39:26 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  JT
	<jttriumph71@yahoo.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not
 permitted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- JT <jttriumph71@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Lately I've been seeing some vehicles for sale on the site it was my
> understanding that you can't list vehicles for sale on the site would someone
> please give me the correct answer to that question can or can you not list for
> sale vehicles on this website? Thanks JT

"Commercial" ads are frowned on, except in response to a question.  There is even a separate Autojumble list for people with a lot of things to sell (though it doesn't see much traffic).

However, I believe that an occasional offer for sale is acceptable.

Here are the "official" guidelines from MJB (the man behind the curtain that keeps this list going) :

>>>
For the moment, though, my request is simple.  Use common sense, respect and
consideration if you are thinking about offering items for sale on one of the
lists.  At the very least, describe what you have, where in the world it is
located, and the price.  It isn't nice to make folks who might be interested
do the work in requesting this basic info, when a few more seconds of typing
on your part would do the trick.

These lists, with the previously mentioned exception of autojumble, are for
discussion, not commerce.  I don't want to just ban any and all 'for sale'
email, outright.  Finding a needed part through the list resources is an
important part of the value provided.  I simply request that you Think before
you type.
<<<

To which, I will personally add that if you do make a sale through the list, it would be appropriate to donate part of the proceeds to help maintain the list, using the "Donate" link below.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Aug 30 13:46:14 2013
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Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:45:13 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:22.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <650DAA71-921E-41C4-A5C3-C31D88F73479@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Listing vehicles for sale on this site is it or is it not
 permitted
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Personally what I would do is write up an advert with pics and such for 
the 'Swap Meet'
forum at http://www.team.net.forums then post a pointer to it here on 
this email list.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 08:54:26 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 07:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Calipers and brakes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

To all the folks who responded to my inquiry, thank you. Ted Shumacher came to
my rescue and after discussing
several options we decided to just go with
rebuilt calipers which he conveniently had on his shelf. Plus he is a good guy
who's auto 
parts I have purchased before :))))  
When I finally win Powerball
I plan to pull the body
off the TR6, make whatever dimensional modifications
needed, and remove the body from a Subaru WRX STI and put my TR6 body
on.
 Kick some German BE-hind!  Oh yeh, right AFTER I buy the Airstream Trailer
and the Bentley with which to pull it around:))
Chances of that happening are
equal to that of me covering the state of Texas a foot deep in fifty cent
pieces and going and finding
a specific one-the first try:)))  Hope you're
laughing!!

John Summers
'74 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 17:39:52 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 16:39:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     So when repainting a TR6 under the lower side chrome strip there is some
rough stuff that is sort of like hard splattered undercoating. Part of mine is
sanded off smooth. If a guy wants to re-do it, what do you use? Does anyone
scrape off the old coating and just paint it the body color instead of the
satin black?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 17:48:15 2013
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References: <1377992373.83599.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 19:47:47 -0400
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sill Splatter Coating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I hd mine sanded down and painted black without the texture when it was
repainted in 2002. Never went for concourse so didn't care much if correct.
Just want a clean look.
Jim henningsen
Ocala fl
62 TR4
75 TR6

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 31, 2013, at 7:39 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>     So when repainting a TR6 under the lower side chrome strip there is
some
> rough stuff that is sort of like hard splattered undercoating. Part of mine
is
> sanded off smooth. If a guy wants to re-do it, what do you use? Does anyone
> scrape off the old coating and just paint it the body color instead of the
> satin black?
>     TIA,
>
>     Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 18:33:49 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 17:29:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 and Miata Seats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am considering put Miata seats in my 1974 TR6. They look more
comfortable and a lot faster & cheaper than re-doing the TR6 seats in tan
leather. Are there any year Miata seats that either fit or don't fit? Any
suggestions on which seats would work best? I see Miata seat mounting kits for
sale on Ebay, has anyone used them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251327809470?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649


     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 19:06:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr-3 temp sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've just been removing and re-installing thermostat and temperature sensor
from my tr-3.  I have a question concerning the temp sensor.  I find that I
can tighten up the nut that holds the sensor in place very tightly.  But no
matter how tight it is the sensor can still be pulled in and out by approx.
1/4 inch.  It does seem to be springloaded and take some effort to pull in and
out.  (pulling on the wire wound capillary pipe) but still it does move.

I
think it has always been that way and never leaked but I don't understand it.
It seems that it should leak water.  Is it possible that the "springloaded"
pressure is enough to keep it tight and from leaking?  Or did I lose a bushing
that should also go inside the locking nut?
thanks!
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 20:13:12 2013
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References: <1378001160.74771.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 22:12:40 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 temp sensor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Are you sure that its not only the spiral wound protection wire around the
capillary tube that is moving? The sensing bulb seals by a tapered surface
against the thermostat housing and the capillary tube nut only holds it in
place. If the capillary tube itself does not move, you are good to go.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> I've just been removing and re-installing thermostat and temperature
> sensor
> from my tr-3.  I have a question concerning the temp sensor.  I find that
> I
> can tighten up the nut that holds the sensor in place very tightly.  But
> no
> matter how tight it is the sensor can still be pulled in and out by
> approx.
> 1/4 inch.  It does seem to be springloaded and take some effort to pull in
> and
> out.  (pulling on the wire wound capillary pipe) but still it does move.
>
> I
> think it has always been that way and never leaked but I don't understand
> it.
> It seems that it should leak water.  Is it possible that the
> "springloaded"
> pressure is enough to keep it tight and from leaking?  Or did I lose a
> bushing
> that should also go inside the locking nut?
> thanks!
> gary n.
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 20:52:09 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "Triumphs"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1377995376.45244.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 22:49:20 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 and Miata Seats
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bill.... a few observations/comments on Miata seats.... having had both 
rebuilt TR6 seats and Miata seats:

- I totally rebuilt & recovered my '75 TR6 seats and they were very 
comfortable but not as comfortable as Miata seats.
- The headrest of the later TR6 seats offers no head protection versus the 
integrated Miata headrest. Triumph should have stuck with the early seats 
that offered head/neck protection.... having been rear-ended I know the 
value of head/neck support.
- Some guys will tell you that they sit higher in a Miata seat but I bet 
they're comparing them to TR6 seats with bad foam and broken diaphragms. My 
TR6 seats had good foam and good diaphragms so I found that I sat at the 
same height.
- Miata seats offer the option of headrest speakers....... great sound that 
can be heard at "speed".
- The brackets on eBay are made by A.R.E.  or Joe and Drew 
Alexander.......... I've made my own, used A.R.E.'s and finally settled on 
the brackets made by Rick Patton 
(http://pattonmachine.com/Miata-Brackets.htm) Rick's brackets cost more but 
are simple to install and once installed remain in place. Then seat removal 
is a 4 bolt, 5 minute process. I highly recommend them.
- Mr. Mike (http://mrmikes.com/miatahome.htm) makes great seat covers in a 
variety of colors and styles for Miata seats....... NFI but a great guy to 
do business with.
- The last year you can buy is 1999. Anything after that will have a fit 
problem at the shoulder...... i.e. the bracket for the folding top will 
interfere with the seat and need to be modified.
- You should be able to find seats for +/- $150 or so.
- Go through my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm) on 
buying/installing Miata seats and email me with any questions.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- 
From: William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2013 8:29 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 and Miata Seats

     I am considering put Miata seats in my 1974 TR6. They look more
comfortable and a lot faster & cheaper than re-doing the TR6 seats in tan
leather. Are there any year Miata seats that either fit or don't fit? Any
suggestions on which seats would work best? I see Miata seat mounting kits 
for
sale on Ebay, has anyone used them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251327809470?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m
1423.l2649


     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Aug 31 22:54:48 2013
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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 21:54:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Exhausts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am looking to upgrade the exhaust on my 1974 TR6. The stock exhaust is
way to quit. I have been looking online and listening to the videos on
youtube. It looks like the Tourist Trophy exhaust might be quietest, but I am
not sure. Several guys complained that the Monza and Falcon exhausts were too
loud. There are also the Ansa exhausts. Anyone have any valid opinions and
experiences?

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

