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Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2013 13:53:40 -0700
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] looking for part no. 628012 door lock clip
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Any know where I can get this part? Usual places show - not available. Any
other make use something similar?

Sujit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2013 17:32:47 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag@gmail.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] looking for part no. 628012 door lock clip
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Just looking in other Rimmer catalogs but it looks similar to DZA943 used
on the TR7 TR8.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


 > Any know where I can get this part? Usual places show - not available. Any
> other make use something similar?
>
> Sujit
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  1 16:44:24 2013
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Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2013 22:42:56 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Sujit Roy
  <triumphstag@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] looking for part no. 628012 door lock clip
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---- Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Any know where I can get this part? Usual places show - not available. Any
> other make use something similar?

Would one of these work?
http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-277-door-lock-rod-clips.aspx

If all else fails, I think a pair of "push nuts" would probably work; but you might have to add a sleeve between them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-nuts/=or2vx9

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Sujit Roy'" <triumphstag@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANLCLaFTd5-+F4crC+hs-1M3NtNMPhhXhvT6yS3wFt02j=e+Qg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2013 18:50:27 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] looking for part no. 628012 door lock clip
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You could try the Au-Ve-Co company (Auto Vehicle Part Co.). They specialize
in automotive fasteners, clips, etc. http://www.auveco.com/ 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2013 4:54 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] looking for part no. 628012 door lock clip

Any know where I can get this part? Usual places show - not available. Any
other make use something similar?

Sujit

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2013 20:01:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

So now I have a running TR4A in the garage and there is a gas smell who's
source is driving me crazy. No visible leaks anywhere. The carburetor bodies
are dry.. I don't have air cleaners on in yet but I don't think that could be
the source. The filler cap gasket is looking pretty rough but it feels like it
is sealing.
Does anybody have any ideas?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2013 19:44:59 -0500
From: Greg Gelhar  <greg@gelhar.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check around any rubber sections of the fuel line. I have experienced ethanol fuel softening those. While you're at it, look at the fuel pump too.

Greg G.
Osseo,MN

T-Mobile. Americabs First Nationwide 4G Network

Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

>So now I have a running TR4A in the garage and there is a gas smell who's
>source is driving me crazy. No visible leaks anywhere. The carburetor bodies
>are dry.. I don't have air cleaners on in yet but I don't think that could be
>the source. The filler cap gasket is looking pretty rough but it feels like it
>is sealing.
>Does anybody have any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Dave Connitt
>'67 TR4A IRS
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  2 19:07:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 01:04:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
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Dont forget that old cars direct vent the gas tank to the air.  There is a vent tube at the top of the tank that opens under the car to the right of the tank. 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, October 2, 2013 7:01:57 PM
> Subject: [TR] Gas smell
> So now I have a running TR4A in the garage and there is a gas smell
> who's
> source is driving me crazy. No visible leaks anywhere. The carburetor
> bodies
> are dry.. I don't have air cleaners on in yet but I don't think that
> could be
> the source. The filler cap gasket is looking pretty rough but it feels
> like it
> is sealing.
> Does anybody have any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 16:02:59 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Agree.  If you park a car in a garage that has an open fuel system after
its well warmed up you will get a strong gas odor.  The carb bowls are
vented as well and as they absorb heat from the engine the gas fumes will
make a good stink.  No way around it.

Ben......




> Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 01:04:30 +0000 (UTC)
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
> Message-ID:
>         <
> 1956025821.1857214.1380762270220.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Dont forget that old cars direct vent the gas tank to the air.  There is a
> vent tube at the top of the tank that opens under the car to the right of
> the tank.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 2, 2013 7:01:57 PM
> > Subject: [TR] Gas smell
> > So now I have a running TR4A in the garage and there is a gas smell
> > who's
> > source is driving me crazy. No visible leaks anywhere. The carburetor
> > bodies
> > are dry.. I don't have air cleaners on in yet but I don't think that
> > could be
> > the source. The filler cap gasket is looking pretty rough but it feels
> > like it
> > is sealing.
> > Does anybody have any ideas?
> > Thanks,
> > Dave Connitt
> > '67 TR4A IRS
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 352
> ****************************************

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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 15:03:02 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 1:02 PM, Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>wrote:

> Agree.  If you park a car in a garage that has an open fuel system after
> its well warmed up you will get a strong gas odor.



I park 3 British cars in my garage every day, all have SU &/or ZS carbs and
vented tanks yet I get no gas smell.

If I were to smell gas I would be looking for a leak.

A slow fuel leak can create a big smell w/o showing much in the way of fuel
spillage as the fuel may evaporate before presenting any drip or visible
accumulation.

One way to search for a leak is to wipe about with a brown or blue gas
station paper towel -- even a very small amount of fuel will show up as a
dark spot on those towels.  Wipe around the usual suspects -- carbs, fuel
pump, fuel line to hard line connections, etc.).

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  3 19:11:40 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAMHq6Zz_+5PAMgb9D5T4WDk4syAOeUB=YiR4NSsoN_0uUyYQUg@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2013 20:06:21 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm with george.  no gas smell in my garage except when there is a leak.  3 
to 4 lbc's (well one is an ljc - little japanese car)

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 5:03 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell

On Thu, Oct 3, 2013 at 1:02 PM, Benjamin Zwissler 
<bjzwissler@gmail.com>wrote:

> Agree.  If you park a car in a garage that has an open fuel system after
> its well warmed up you will get a strong gas odor.



I park 3 British cars in my garage every day, all have SU &/or ZS carbs and
vented tanks yet I get no gas smell.

If I were to smell gas I would be looking for a leak.

A slow fuel leak can create a big smell w/o showing much in the way of fuel
spillage as the fuel may evaporate before presenting any drip or visible
accumulation.

One way to search for a leak is to wipe about with a brown or blue gas
station paper towel -- even a very small amount of fuel will show up as a
dark spot on those towels.  Wipe around the usual suspects -- carbs, fuel
pump, fuel line to hard line connections, etc.).

Geo 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 00:04:53 2013
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From: "John McMaster" <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 16:02:52 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac7Ax1y921XVbM0aTnqfvqHNg5P5Iw==
Subject: [TR] SPITFIRE NUMBER PLATE LIGHT HELP
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Hi all,



I have a Dolomite project car that has a different centre bumper section
than standard meaning the original number plate light assembly (same as the
TR6) won't fit.  The bumper I have has 2 holes about 1inch diameter with a
1/4 inch notch cut out at the back (looks like a locator tab).  I think that
Spitfire 1500 (UK Spec) used a pair of single "bubble" lights with chrome
surrounds that I think would fit.  Rimmer Bros has them listed as UKC7274.
Does any one have these style of lights fitted and if so, what size hole do
they mount in and does it have a tab?  Any assistance appreciated - I don't
want to trash my very expensive re-chromed wrong bumper!



Thanks



John Mc

"Fast is First"

71 TR6 PI

76 Dolomite 1850

76 Dolomite Sprint V6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 07:43:15 -0400
From: aribert neumann <aribertn@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, wisejohna@gmail.com
Subject: [TR] Wire wheel - suggestions for tire service in Daytona area
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the wire wheel question has not been answered yet  (I read my digests in
batches and am frequently a few days behind), I would suggest that a source
for wire wheel information (tire stores that can mount them, etc.) might be
at GrassRoots Motorspeorts Magazine (and their sister publication - Classic
Motorsports).  They just happen to be in Ormund Beach/ Holly Hill area.
I've been a subscriber for a decade or more and they have made mention of
people dropping by their offices and I do vaguely remember some articles in
the past dealing with vehicles with wire wheels and where they had the tire
service done.  Since I have not had an LBC with wire wheels in the past 20
yrs, I did not pay any attention to that portion of the articles.



---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: John Wise <wisejohna@gmail.com>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2013 13:38:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires
What is the current list wisdom for the best choice of tires for a'60 TR3A
that has wire wheels?

I live in Ormond Beach Florida and usually drive the car to go shopping, to
meetings, car shows, and occasionally to the university where I teach which
involves 6 miles on I-95, as my students often ask very nicely about seeing
the car.  :-)

And by any WILD chance, does anyone know of a good shop in the Daytona Beach
area that can handle wire wheels?

Thanks

John

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
The Wise Group, LLC
Ormond Beach, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 10:07:07 2013
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From: "Martin Secrest" <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1380736802.19074.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2013 12:05:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for late GT6/Spitfire Axle Assembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey folks, if anyone has a good condition GT6-3 or late ('73-'80) Spitfire 
rear axle assembly, I'm in the market for one.  It's a long story but the 
left half-shaft assembly in my '73 GT6 is toast.  I need the LEFT axle, with 
flanges and the hub, basically everything except the brake parts.  Just PM 
me at moira.secrest@verizon.net.  I'm hoping for an axle with good bearings 
(no roughness or play) that I can squeeze another 20 or 30k miles out of. 
Thanks.

--
Martin Secrest
Arlington, VA 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 12:43:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7BOfZXuThIG9DuTne39Q+iZogBfw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm now into my fourth hi torque starter in 12 years. Each one of them went
south due to corrosion buildup in the solenoid region first, then more
corrosion in the gear area. It looks like it doesn't drain water very well.
One came from TRF, one from Moss and one from TSI. The one arriving today is
from BPNW. All failed after two or so years of use (12 mo warranty, of
course).

I missed TRFest this year because of the damned thing. Anybody else have
problems with them?

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 14:18:42 2013
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Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2013 16:16:58 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
References: <000701cec139$f7a4c370$e6ee4a50$@rr.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Never had the need. The starter on the 58 is a bullet original sans new 
brushes and turning down the commutator. The starter on the 63 4 is 
original with new brushes only. As far as I can tell the starter on the 
72 6 is original.

Since I dont start in winter, no need for high torque. Cars usually 
start on the 2nd or 3rd turn when cold.

I would look at getting a rebuilt Lucas starter. I cant understand how 
moisture could get at the solenoid or other parts. Must be a poor 
design. I have never seen corrosion in any Lucas starter I have 
serviced. I see TR4 type starters on Ebay from time to time.

Bob

On 10/04/2013 03:43 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote:
> I'm now into my fourth hi torque starter in 12 years. Each one of them went
> south due to corrosion buildup in the solenoid region first, then more
> corrosion in the gear area. It looks like it doesn't drain water very well.
> One came from TRF, one from Moss and one from TSI. The one arriving today is
> from BPNW. All failed after two or so years of use (12 mo warranty, of
> course).
>
> I missed TRFest this year because of the damned thing. Anybody else have
> problems with them?
>
> Johnnie
>
> '67 TR4A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 14:44:11 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'John & Pat Donnelly'" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000701cec139$f7a4c370$e6ee4a50$@rr.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 16:42:30 -0400
Thread-Index: AQEfglyvSckwApwHial4hLA4LgxfE5tDfhrw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

With all of the oil that seems to seep from our cars, I'm surprised that
corrosion is an issue. Is it salt related? Our cars get put away for the
winter before any salt gets applied to the roads so I guess we don't have
that issue. We have a gear reduction starter that came from Gustafson
Machine and it is now about ten years old. Never had a problem until about a
month ago when we didn't even get a click from it when restarting a hot
engine. Later in the day (after the CT TR Register show), it worked fine.
I'll need to look at the entire starter insulated circuit to see what's up.
Our old Lucas starter had wiped-out bushings and the armature shaft was well
worn where it sits in the bushings. 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 3:43 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems

I'm now into my fourth hi torque starter in 12 years. Each one of them went
south due to corrosion buildup in the solenoid region first, then more
corrosion in the gear area. It looks like it doesn't drain water very well.
One came from TRF, one from Moss and one from TSI. The one arriving today is
from BPNW. All failed after two or so years of use (12 mo warranty, of
course).

I missed TRFest this year because of the damned thing. Anybody else have
problems with them?

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 15:19:35 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000701cec139$f7a4c370$e6ee4a50$@rr.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 17:17:52 -0400
	aRv3K6HPNy0u58/rOwsM89L10Fm50+OStvUTSvprC2p+GpdtVN
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Subject: Re: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm into 6 full years with the one from Ted at TSI...... Haven't heard 
anything from the 6-Pack guys about the problems you're having.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 3:43 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems

I'm now into my fourth hi torque starter in 12 years. Each one of them went
south due to corrosion buildup in the solenoid region first, then more
corrosion in the gear area. It looks like it doesn't drain water very well.
One came from TRF, one from Moss and one from TSI. The one arriving today is
from BPNW. All failed after two or so years of use (12 mo warranty, of
course).

I missed TRFest this year because of the damned thing. Anybody else have
problems with them?

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  4 15:28:19 2013
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Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2013 21:26:39 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  John & Pat Donnelly
	<pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Hi Torque Starters - Problems
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I missed TRFest this year because of the damned thing. Anybody else have
> problems with them?

FWIW, I recently started having trouble with the one I bought back in 2001, after I got thoroughly frustrated with trying to keep the possibly original starter going on my TR3A.  (It failed twice in a row on long trips, first on the way to VTR 2000 and then on the way home from 2001; both times over 500 miles from home.)

But after disassembly, I don't believe my problem was corrosion.  The top level problem was that the connector to the solenoid was no longer snug, and would sometimes not make good contact.  But I discovered that the motor bearings were also completely shot, and the armature was starting to drag on the pole pieces.  What little grease remained in the gearbox was dried and hard.  I'm not certain, but I attribute the bearing damage and grease condition to excess heat from the exhaust (which passes very close to the solenoid on a TR3).  I robbed the armature from another starter, someday soon I'll see if I can source replacement bearings.  I also added a sheet metal heat shield, which might help.

But it never snows here, and rarely rains, so in general I have a lot less trouble with corrosion than other parts of the country.

In your case, it might be worth trying to add some sealing against water entry (mine showed no signs of being sealed at all).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct  5 13:46:35 2013
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From: "Len Drake" <lendrake@shaw.ca>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2013 12:44:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stag steering rack
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Hi - I am looking for a Stag steering rack.  Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Len Drake

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 10 14:51:56 2013
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From: Robert Jones <rjones@wfeca.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2013 15:37:09 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
	engine=2.50.10432:5.10.8794,1.0.431,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-10-10_06:2013-10-10,2013-10-10,1970-01-01
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Subject: [TR] Contact
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Al Salvatore, if you are still out there, please give me a good e-mail address
and send to :  rjones@wfeca.net.  i need to ask you a question about
polishing.

Thanks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 08:13:30 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 09:12:08 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7Gi904YBeQUd3dT7u34ElRkw/Dmw==
Subject: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Watching the CBS morning news show with Charlie Rose & Co., they had Bob
Schieffer on and were talking about the day of the Kennedy assassination.
Please no political or theory comments, Bob was a reporter at the Fort Worth
Star-Telegram at the time and he said one of the many phone calls he took
that afternoon turned out to be from Lee Oswald's mother who needed a ride
to Dallas.
 
Now to the TR content:  Schieffer said, "I had a Triumph sports car, just a
two-seater, so my editor drove in his car while I sat in the back with Mrs.
Oswald" (this is a very close paraphrase).  So, in November of 1963 CBS
correspondent Bob Schieffer had a Triumph, most likely at TR3 or new TR4.
Anyone else catch this?  Anyone know anything of the car he owned? (Maybe
the Red River guys have it squirreled away somewhere?)
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <E58B0F50BD974DDEBBD4CAF30F20AFA7@bboffice>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 07:41:21 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The incident is recounted in more detail in Bob's book *This Just In*.

Geo


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 7:12 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Watching the CBS morning news show with Charlie Rose & Co., they had Bob
> Schieffer on and were talking about the day of the Kennedy assassination.
> Please no political or theory comments, Bob was a reporter at the Fort
> Worth
> Star-Telegram at the time and he said one of the many phone calls he took
> that afternoon turned out to be from Lee Oswald's mother who needed a ride
> to Dallas.
>
> Now to the TR content:  Schieffer said, "I had a Triumph sports car, just a
> two-seater, so my editor drove in his car while I sat in the back with Mrs.
> Oswald" (this is a very close paraphrase).  So, in November of 1963 CBS
> correspondent Bob Schieffer had a Triumph, most likely at TR3 or new TR4.
> Anyone else catch this?  Anyone know anything of the car he owned? (Maybe
> the Red River guys have it squirreled away somewhere?)
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
>  <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Keep Calm and Carry On
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 09:31:52 2013
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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 14:50:00 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: wbeech@flash.net
	s=q20121106; t=1381503000;
	bh=iB3jeok294Eb91zWRXu2XGW/dX6Q2oVCTKBARg/xHW4=;
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
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I'm guessing he didn't make a lot of money then and the car was a TR3.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: wbeech@flash.net
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 9:12:08 AM
> Subject: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
> Watching the CBS morning news show with Charlie Rose & Co., they had
> Bob
> Schieffer on and were talking about the day of the Kennedy
> assassination.
> Please no political or theory comments, Bob was a reporter at the Fort
> Worth
> Star-Telegram at the time and he said one of the many phone calls he
> took
> that afternoon turned out to be from Lee Oswald's mother who needed a
> ride
> to Dallas.
> 
> Now to the TR content: Schieffer said, "I had a Triumph sports car,
> just a
> two-seater, so my editor drove in his car while I sat in the back with
> Mrs.
> Oswald" (this is a very close paraphrase). So, in November of 1963 CBS
> correspondent Bob Schieffer had a Triumph, most likely at TR3 or new
> TR4.
> Anyone else catch this? Anyone know anything of the car he owned?
> (Maybe
> the Red River guys have it squirreled away somewhere?)
> 
> Bill
> 
> Bill Beecher

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 09:57:08 2013
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	<1595444085.1988028.1381503000348.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 10:49:18 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Walter Cronkite, fellow CBS newsman later in Bob Schieffer's career, and
one who doubtlessly did make a fair living, was a well-known TR3 driver
(and occasional racer).  There's a good photo of Uncle Walter and his TR3
in Mike Cook's "Triumph Cars in America", p43.

And an update on another Cronkite car, a 1972 TR6, here:
http://www.kansascity.com/2013/08/16/4415189/doc-morey-restored-the-triumph.html


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 9:50 AM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm guessing he didn't make a lot of money then and the car was a TR3.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: wbeech@flash.net
> > To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 9:12:08 AM
> > Subject: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
> > Watching the CBS morning news show with Charlie Rose & Co., they had
> > Bob
> > Schieffer on and were talking about the day of the Kennedy
> > assassination.
> > Please no political or theory comments, Bob was a reporter at the Fort
> > Worth
> > Star-Telegram at the time and he said one of the many phone calls he
> > took
> > that afternoon turned out to be from Lee Oswald's mother who needed a
> > ride
> > to Dallas.
> >
> > Now to the TR content: Schieffer said, "I had a Triumph sports car,
> > just a
> > two-seater, so my editor drove in his car while I sat in the back with
> > Mrs.
> > Oswald" (this is a very close paraphrase). So, in November of 1963 CBS
> > correspondent Bob Schieffer had a Triumph, most likely at TR3 or new
> > TR4.
> > Anyone else catch this? Anyone know anything of the car he owned?
> > (Maybe
> > the Red River guys have it squirreled away somewhere?)
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Bill Beecher
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 14:31:39 2013
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 13:23:19 -0700
Thread-Topic: Dave Massey
Thread-Index: Ac7Gvqr/24w/QAxXR9SRLPB4xjgr1w==
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acceptlanguage: en-US
Subject: [TR] Dave Massey
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Sorry to bomb the list, but...
Dave Massey, can you contact me off-list?  Its about your grill, tech wants to
talk to you.
Thanx, Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 14:41:37 2013
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	2013 16:18:05 -0400
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 15:18:04 -0500
From: Pat Fischer <pfischer@rmi.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <1301A94952F94F16A86AB4760543B53A@DaveLaptop>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gas smell
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On my 250 there is a portion of the fuel line under the rear of the car 
with a small length of rubber hose connecting two longer metal pipes. I 
guess maybe they did that for flex/vibration purposes. Several years 
back my garage was filling with gas fumes that I couldn't find the 
source of. Pushed the car outside and a day later the leak was enough 
for a small spot on the driveway. The frustrating part of this is that 
it can leak and evaporate at about the same rate, so there's no dripping 
for awhile.

Drained the gas tank and a friend helped me install a new length of 
rubber hose.

Could this be your problem?

Pat

On 10/2/2013 7:01 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> So now I have a running TR4A in the garage and there is a gas smell who's
> source is driving me crazy. No visible leaks anywhere. The carburetor bodies
> are dry.. I don't have air cleaners on in yet but I don't think that could be
> the source. The filler cap gasket is looking pretty rough but it feels like it
> is sealing.
> Does anybody have any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@ties2.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:18:30 -0500
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Trunk is stuck shut
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net



** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 17:14:44 2013
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	Oct 2013 23:13:52 +0000
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E58B0F50BD974DDEBBD4CAF30F20AFA7@bboffice><1595444085.1988028.1381503000348.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<CAPK7CFAb0LVqhUCmhofXzsMD0ROkobzikWAKud1Hb8PtmV2DfQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 19:14:16 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A few years ago a faded red TR3A showed up at The Roadster Factory's Summer 
Party in pretty much an original condition. It was very well worn but driven 
from somewhere in NY to Pa. It had a CBS Labs sticker on the window I think, 
maybe the bumper. The speculation was that it could have been Walter 
Cronkite's TR 3 as he was know to have one at some point. No documentation 
at all but a good story. The car had not been touched in a long time and was 
very "original" Even the tires were old. Brave driver.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Don Hiscock
Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 11:49 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?

Walter Cronkite, fellow CBS newsman later in Bob Schieffer's career, and
one who doubtlessly did make a fair living, was a well-known TR3 driver
(and occasional racer).  There's a good photo of Uncle Walter and his TR3
in Mike Cook's "Triumph Cars in America", p43.

And an update on another Cronkite car, a 1972 TR6, here:
http://www.kansascity.com/2013/08/16/4415189/doc-morey-restored-the-triumph.html


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 9:50 AM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm guessing he didn't make a lot of money then and the car was a TR3.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > From: wbeech@flash.net
> > To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 9:12:08 AM
> > Subject: [TR] Celebrity Triumph?
> > Watching the CBS morning news show with Charlie Rose & Co., they had
> > Bob
> > Schieffer on and were talking about the day of the Kennedy
> > assassination.
> > Please no political or theory comments, Bob was a reporter at the Fort
> > Worth
> > Star-Telegram at the time and he said one of the many phone calls he
> > took
> > that afternoon turned out to be from Lee Oswald's mother who needed a
> > ride
> > to Dallas.
> >
> > Now to the TR content: Schieffer said, "I had a Triumph sports car,
> > just a
> > two-seater, so my editor drove in his car while I sat in the back with
> > Mrs.
> > Oswald" (this is a very close paraphrase). So, in November of 1963 CBS
> > correspondent Bob Schieffer had a Triumph, most likely at TR3 or new
> > TR4.
> > Anyone else catch this? Anyone know anything of the car he owned?
> > (Maybe
> > the Red River guys have it squirreled away somewhere?)
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > Bill Beecher
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv@roadrunner.com 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 11 17:59:03 2013
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2013 16:55:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] pdwa
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Ibve got this here TVR b stay with me now, itbs got TR6 brakes.  Being a
TVR, its system isnbt like whatbs shown in the catalogues, so Ibm
looking for someone who has or knows of a TR6 thatbs available for parts,
specifically the PDWA switch and valve assembly.  Any kind soul who can help,
please contact me direct at skip47@gbis.com or 775-575-6996 (NV east of Reno).
Many thanks.

Skip Gurnee
64 TR4 b my first car bought in 1963
66 TR4A
67 Lotus Cortina
90 Jeep Cherokee b tow car for the TVR
99 Mercury Tracer b 30+ mpg

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 12 18:56:29 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2013 17:56:06 -0700
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Subject: [TR] tr6 head removal
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I won't go into why, but I need to change my head gasket on the TR6.
The head is stuck - what's new, right?
I tried the rope trick.  I know I had enough rope in the right cylinders, 3&4,
because I could  not push the car past TDC on those cylinders.
I tried a leveraging trick - engine lift eyes against the manifold studs and
the auxiliary oil passage nut - nope.
OK, tried to pull the studs.  I double nutted with two head nuts.  If I get
them tight enough so both won't turn, I don't have enough strength to pull the
wrench on the bottom nut to move it at all!
Yes, I have checked, nothing is still attached.  Yes, I have sprayed with an
assortment of stuff: PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, even a new product that
freezes as it applies a penetrant.
Suggestion?
Please answer direct to me as well since I am on digest version.
HELP & thanks...
Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 13 13:12:19 2013
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2013 14:11:43 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Cc: "peterara@msn.com" <peterara@msn.com>
Subject: [TR] Re. TR6head removal
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Hi Peter,  I had the same problem on my Stag with the inlet manifold.  I ended
up buying an engine hoist and chained it to the manifold and lifted it enough
just to put the manifold,under some tension.  Then Tapped around the manifold
lightly with a mallet or hammer and that broke,it loose.  Same thing should
work on the head.  Just don't put so much tension on it that when it breaks
loose it flys apart and damages you or the car.

Hope this helps,
Frank

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 02:53:49 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2013 18:34:30 -0700
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Subject: [TR] TR6 head removal
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I would like to thank all who have so far tried to help me with my problem.
I have tried almost all that was suggested:  I have double checked and nothing
remains attached, I have cranked the motor over with plugs in, I have tried
the rope trick by both hand pushing the car and bumping the starter, I have
tried the various suggestions of prying at various points and ways, I have
applied heat, I have pulled the manifold studs, I have been soaking for a day
and a half with various penetrants as well as one that freezes as it applies
its penetrant.  I have not tried a couple of methods:  Jonmac's factory method
of clamping head and block with wood and striking, paraffin, or engine hoist.
Still stuck.  I have tried double nutting the studs, but cannot get the nuts
tight enough together to turn the stud before turning each other.  I have been
using two head nuts and cannot torque to full spec, 80 ft lbs, before feeling
the give of the top nut and the beginnings of buggering the threads of the
studs.  I will be getting some grade 8 jam nuts in the hopes that getting a
bigger bite of the stud on the nut will enable me to get them tighter
together.  All seven studs on the right side and one on the left are still
stuck.
My friends here are going to call their friends in shops for more help and
advice, before I end up having it towed to a shop.
Any and all additional suggestions or comments would be appreciated.  Direct
please, I am on digest version.
Thanks, Peter

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2013 19:18:13 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Ig6J+X4Kc9JuFRHePVkwXOOuI5A==
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Subject: [TR] Any VTR - TFest Pics?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A last minute breakdown prevented me from going. I was bummed. Can somebody
help a poor soul get a little fix by sharing some pictures?

 

Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Peter Arakelian'" <peterara@msn.com>, "'Listers'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 07:18:45 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7IuvryjXQaF++eR/2rt+CtAYKDpgAKBlqA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> My friends here are going to call their friends in shops for 
> more help and
> advice, before I end up having it towed to a shop.
> Any and all additional suggestions or comments would be 
> appreciated. 

Has the head moved at all?  Or is it still firmly against the block along the entire length?  If you managed to lift one end at all
(even 1/16"), then it may be bound up against the studs and you need to drive that end back down while you concentrate on doing the
same thing to the other end.  That is what happened when I tried to use a hoist to lift a TR3 head off of the studs.  The head bound
on the studs and lifted the car off the ground, even though it came free and came right off once I set the car down and drove the
lifted end back down.

Also, I think you mentioned packing rope into #5 and #6, but that would not be correct.  You want to use #1 and #6 as they come to
TDC at the same time.  Turn the engine backwards as far as it will go, and then use the starter to spin it forward.  You'll probably
have to repeat this dozens of times to see any movement at all.

Here are some more extreme suggestions, but probably it would be better to let a shop tackle it:

1) Use an arc welder to pass enough current through the studs to get them hot.  You can also weld a nut to the stud at the same time
to get a firmer grip without relying on the stud threads.

2) Build a tool similar to that used by the TR7 & Stag folks to remove recalcitrant heads.  This is basically a large (and heavy)
weldment that bolts to the head on both sides, and has large set screws that bear against the top of the studs.  Offhand, I'm not
sure where you would mount to a TR6 head on the LH side, the spark plug holes are the only threads on that side that I can think of.

As a side comment, this is a very common problem with the TR7 and Stag motors; and it is not uncommon to find motors that have been
destroyed by unsuccessful attempts to remove the head(s).  Reportedly the above tool works a treat, even when other methods fail.


3), which I plan to try if I ever get that far down my todo list, to build a home EDM (electrical discharge machining) machine and
use it to cut the studs out of the head.  There have been several sets of plans published in Home Shop Machinist (reprints are
available from Village Press).  Basically, you need a drive mechanism that will advance a section of brass tubing under "computer"
control, through the center of the stud; plus a power supply that will generate several hundred volts of DC without being damaged by
a short circuit.  The logic circuit monitors the voltage and advances the tool when the voltage is high, retracts it when the
voltage is low.  Each time it moves, the resulting spark removes a tiny piece of metal from the stud.  A small pump circulates fluid
through the center of the tube and a catch basin around the stud, to carry away the tiny bits.  It's a very slow process (hence the
need for automation), but will cut anything that will conduct (eg hardened steel) without wandering.  The classic example is cutting
a gear-shaped hole through a file.

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Head removal tool 3.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 08:39:49 2013
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	<38.12.23147.04DFB525@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 07:39:20 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Listers <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As an aside -- my technique for avoiding a stuck head is to blow a head
gasket, get a valve job, break a piston ring, drop a screw down a spark
plug hole, etc. once every 4 years or so.

That pretty much guarantees that the head will come free with the side
bonus that your elapsed time to R&R the thing will get quite good.

Geo


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 7:18 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > My friends here are going to call their friends in shops for
> > more help and
> > advice, before I end up having it towed to a shop.
> > Any and all additional suggestions or comments would be
> > appreciated.
>
> Has the head moved at all?  Or is it still firmly against the block along
> the entire length?  If you managed to lift one end at all
> (even 1/16"), then it may be bound up against the studs and you need to
> drive that end back down while you concentrate on doing the
> same thing to the other end.  That is what happened when I tried to use a
> hoist to lift a TR3 head off of the studs.  The head bound
> on the studs and lifted the car off the ground, even though it came free
> and came right off once I set the car down and drove the
> lifted end back down.
>
> Also, I think you mentioned packing rope into #5 and #6, but that would
> not be correct.  You want to use #1 and #6 as they come to
> TDC at the same time.  Turn the engine backwards as far as it will go, and
> then use the starter to spin it forward.  You'll probably
> have to repeat this dozens of times to see any movement at all.
>
> Here are some more extreme suggestions, but probably it would be better to
> let a shop tackle it:
>
> 1) Use an arc welder to pass enough current through the studs to get them
> hot.  You can also weld a nut to the stud at the same time
> to get a firmer grip without relying on the stud threads.
>
> 2) Build a tool similar to that used by the TR7 & Stag folks to remove
> recalcitrant heads.  This is basically a large (and heavy)
> weldment that bolts to the head on both sides, and has large set screws
> that bear against the top of the studs.  Offhand, I'm not
> sure where you would mount to a TR6 head on the LH side, the spark plug
> holes are the only threads on that side that I can think of.
>
> As a side comment, this is a very common problem with the TR7 and Stag
> motors; and it is not uncommon to find motors that have been
> destroyed by unsuccessful attempts to remove the head(s).  Reportedly the
> above tool works a treat, even when other methods fail.
>
>
> 3), which I plan to try if I ever get that far down my todo list, to build
> a home EDM (electrical discharge machining) machine and
> use it to cut the studs out of the head.  There have been several sets of
> plans published in Home Shop Machinist (reprints are
> available from Village Press).  Basically, you need a drive mechanism that
> will advance a section of brass tubing under "computer"
> control, through the center of the stud; plus a power supply that will
> generate several hundred volts of DC without being damaged by
> a short circuit.  The logic circuit monitors the voltage and advances the
> tool when the voltage is high, retracts it when the
> voltage is low.  Each time it moves, the resulting spark removes a tiny
> piece of metal from the stud.  A small pump circulates fluid
> through the center of the tube and a catch basin around the stud, to carry
> away the tiny bits.  It's a very slow process (hence the
> need for automation), but will cut anything that will conduct (eg hardened
> steel) without wandering.  The classic example is cutting
> a gear-shaped hole through a file.
>
> Randall
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> Head removal tool 3.jpg]
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 10:48:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
I have installed the rubber door seals that fit into the metal track and I
can't get the doors closed all the way. I am considering removing that seal
and going with the the other type of seal that slides over the flange around
the door opening. I was wondering what type of door seal some of the other
TR4/TR4A owners are using? I would think that eventually the seal I have would
compress but I am suspicious of the fact that the seal I have may be larger
than the original and will never compress enough to get the doors all the way
closed. They are about 3/8" from completely closing.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 08:47:07 2013
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  (PDT)
References: <3C503718A3044484B36F5B1940938911@DaveLaptop>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 07:46:14 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When I first replaced the seals on my TR4 (using the original style, not
the TR6 seals) I had to really slam the door to get it fully closed.
Eventually they took a set that allowed easy closure -- like a refrigerator.

Sorry, I do not recall how long that took -- probably months but less than
a year.

Geo


On Mon, Oct 14, 2013 at 7:48 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> List,
> I have installed the rubber door seals that fit into the metal track and I
> can't get the doors closed all the way. I am considering removing that seal
> and going with the the other type of seal that slides over the flange
> around
> the door opening. I was wondering what type of door seal some of the other
> TR4/TR4A owners are using? I would think that eventually the seal I have
> would
> compress but I am suspicious of the fact that the seal I have may be larger
> than the original and will never compress enough to get the doors all the
> way
> closed. They are about 3/8" from completely closing.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 08:50:10 2013
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:49:47 +0000
	FILETIME=[A0F968E0:01CEC8EC]
Subject: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,

It has been a long time since I have been able to work on my TR3A.  Now I am
installing a new tonneau cover.  The difficulty I have is devising a method to
accurately cut holes in the cover for the roll bar to fit through.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fit the tonneau around the roll bar?

Thanks.

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3C503718A3044484B36F5B1940938911@DaveLaptop>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 09:57:52 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7I66azztfBHcK2Rre7Bco3m2xgkAAAStiA
Subject: Re: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am sure some "4" owners will respond but I had the same issue with my "3".
For the most part, after a few months the doors will 'settle' into the seals
as they compress.  However, my bottom door seal never got to where it
allowed the door to close without looking crooked so I took it off and cut
it back significantly, not worrying much as it is never seen.

You results may vary,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 9:49 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A

List,
I have installed the rubber door seals that fit into the metal track and I
can't get the doors closed all the way. I am considering removing that seal
and going with the the other type of seal that slides over the flange around
the door opening. I was wondering what type of door seal some of the other
TR4/TR4A owners are using? I would think that eventually the seal I have
would compress but I am suspicious of the fact that the seal I have may be
larger than the original and will never compress enough to get the doors all
the way closed. They are about 3/8" from completely closing.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 09:52:20 2013
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From: "D&B Lambert" <blambert@socal.rr.com>
To: "'Peter Arakelian'" <peterara@msn.com>, "'Listers'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-DS152D32D8F813365FAEB3E4C11A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 08:49:38 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7IuuwLaUy1o47tQR2v48nV8ss4vgAN1vcg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter,
I had the same problem a few months ago with a TR6 I am in the process of
rebuilding.  I had 5 or 6 studs so severely stuck that the double nut trick
wouldn't budge them.  Same deal as you describe: I couldn't get the top nut
on tight enough to stop the other one from turning before I could feel the
nut stripping the stud thread.  Figuring I was going to install a new set of
studs anyway, I ended up welding a nut to each offending stud and removing
them that way; all except one stud.  On that one the stud just snapped off
near the welded nut leaving me with a nut and partial stud in my wrench.
Apparently the studs will corrode themselves to the passage in which they
pass through the head, so in that case the stud was prevented from being
turned by the head, not stuck in threads in the block.  I ended up using the
head as a giant "bolt head" for the stud, breaking the head loose by
whacking it on the side with a rubber mallet in the direction of unscrewing
the stud.  Eventually it worked and I was able to turn the head, unscrewing
the head/stud combo all the way.  On the six-pack forum there are pictures
of another guy who did the same thing.  After the head was free it was a
simple matter of driving the stud through the head passage.  I think welding
nuts to the studs also helped loosen them from the block, as they get really
really hot for a short period of time; I could hear the penetrating oil I
had bathed the studs in for days sizzle.  I too, tried the rope trick
(unsuccessfully) in cylinders #1 & #6.  No go for me.
Good Luck.
Dennis Lambert

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
> Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 6:35 PM
> To: Listers
> Subject: [TR] TR6 head removal
> 
> I would like to thank all who have so far tried to help me with my
problem.
> I have tried almost all that was suggested:  I have double checked and
nothing
> remains attached, I have cranked the motor over with plugs in, I have
tried
> the rope trick by both hand pushing the car and bumping the starter, I
have
> tried the various suggestions of prying at various points and ways, I have
> applied heat, I have pulled the manifold studs, I have been soaking for a
day
> and a half with various penetrants as well as one that freezes as it
applies
> its penetrant.  I have not tried a couple of methods:  Jonmac's factory
method

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W644EFDCE9FCB98C733A50EE51A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 12:56:28 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...sorry for the blasphemy...but on my Miata I cut a slit in from the side 
and installed a zipper. Where the roll bar passes through, I cut little 
slits to produce 'triangles' that would fold up out of the way to pass the 
bar through. Those little triangle tabs where then sewn to a piece of edging 
to produce a 'collar' that sticks up and wraps around the bar.
(an attempt to stop possible water ingress if caught in the rain while 
parked?)

I Install the tonneau, then wrap the flap around the bar, zip it up, then 
snap everything down as normal.
clear as mud right?   :-)

. The local boat yard type cover and upholstery guy wanted near $250 to 
install 2x 5 inch long zippers.
screw that!   yes...what a bear. but I hand stitched the zipper, edgings and 
trim. didn't turn out too bad I must say.

I've since expanded the 'collar' around the bar by adding a length of Velcro 
to the mix. It allows me to pull the cover tight to the bar.

I'll see if I can find an old snapshot of the effort.
...remind me in a couple days if I don't post a pic (old geezer mode day to 
day)


Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 10:49 AM
Subject: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau?


> Hi List,
>
> It has been a long time since I have been able to work on my TR3A.  Now I 
> am
> installing a new tonneau cover.  The difficulty I have is devising a 
> method to
> accurately cut holes in the cover for the roll bar to fit through.
>
> Does anyone have suggestions on how to fit the tonneau around the roll 
> bar?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

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Subject: Re: [TR] Any VTR - TFest Pics?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Johnnie, sorry you missed Triumphest/VTR, it was a great event. There are
some pictures accessible from the Triumph Travelers home page,
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/ , just click on the Triumphest Pics link
for a slide show. There will be more to follow, including a video of the
parade laps around Sonoma Raceway.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2013 7:18 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Any VTR - TFest Pics?

A last minute breakdown prevented me from going. I was bummed. Can somebody
help a poor soul get a little fix by sharing some pictures?

 

Johnnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 12:45:25 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:45:06 -0400
References: <mailman.48.1381769829.1887.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 2013-10-14, at 2:49 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> It has been a long time since I have been able to work on my TR3A.  Now I
am
> installing a new tonneau cover.  The difficulty I have is devising a method
to
> accurately cut holes in the cover for the roll bar to fit through.
>
> Does anyone have suggestions on how to fit the tonneau around the roll bar?
>
Email me if you want see some pictures of how I did this on our TR6 and I will
send them along. To make the cuts, you will need some heavy duty upholstery
shears and to make it decent looking, you will need some material similar to
the tonneau, some binding material, extra snaps, and access to a heavy duty
upholstery sewing machine. Some have used velcro for the overlap of the cuts
you will make rather than snaps, but I did not go this way because the velcro
tends to collect lint, dirt and pollen.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 15:55:25 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 17:54:37 -0400
References: <mailman.47.1381769829.1887.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had the same problem on a '63. My solution was to buy seals from  
another source. I don't remember now whose seals fit correctly (been  
over ten years) but I bought from Moss and TRF. Coincidently, had the  
same problem with the trunk seal. In that case the seal from the  
"other" vendor fit.

Allen
On Oct 14, 2013, at 12:57 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> I have installed the rubber door seals that fit into the metal track  
> and I
> can't get the doors closed all the way. I am considering removing  
> that seal
> and going with the the other type of seal that slides over the  
> flange around
> the door opening. I was wondering what type of door seal some of the  
> other
> TR4/TR4A owners are using?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 16:18:25 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List \(Triumph List\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 15:17:57 -0700
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Subject: [TR] FW: [revs-program] Invitation to Nov 7 Open Garage Talk with
 Jeff Zwart
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Another Revs program at Stanford, if interested, be sure to register.

Bob

 

From: revs-program-bounces@lists.stanford.edu
[mailto:revs-program-bounces@lists.stanford.edu] On Behalf Of Mailing list
for the Revs Program at Stanford
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 1:51 PM
To: revs-program@stanford.edu
Subject: [revs-program] Invitation to Nov 7 Open Garage Talk with Jeff Zwart

 

The Center for Automotive Research at Stanford (CARS) and 

the Revs Program at Stanford present an evening with Jeff Zwart, 

award-winning director and race car driver on November 7 at 6:00 p.m. 

Mr. Zwart's discussion will focus on "Telling Stories With Cars." 

The talk will be moderated by Diego Rodriguez. 

 

Please join us for an Open Garage Happy Hour at 5:00 p.m. prior to the
discussion.

Light appetizers and beverages will be served. 

 <http://app.certain.com/profile/form/index.cfm?PKformID=0x1635749aed1>
Registration is required; seating is limited. 

This event is free and open to the public.

 




Automotive Innovation Facility

Stanford University 

473 Oak Road

AIF Map <http://revs.stanford.edu/about/automotive-innovation-facility> 

 

Revs Program & Center for Automotive Research at Stanford (CARS)

416 Escondido Mall, MC-4021

Building 550, Room 133

Stanford, CA 94305

650.736.4322
_______________________________________________
revs-program mailing list
revs-program@lists.stanford.edu
https://mailman.stanford.edu/mailman/listinfo/revs-program

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 16:24:16 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 18:23:44 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
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I can see how that would work quite handily if the engine is removed from 
the car but it will either maybe work or not at all depending on which stud 
it is.

But a clever solution at any rate.  Let's hope it helps Peter out.

Dave

In a message dated 10/14/2013 10:51:56 AM Central Daylight Time, 
blambert@socal.rr.com writes: 
> Apparently the studs will corrode themselves to the passage in which they
> pass through the head, so in that case the stud was prevented from being
> turned by the head, not stuck in threads in the block.  I ended up using 
> the
> head as a giant "bolt head" for the stud, breaking the head loose by
> whacking it on the side with a rubber mallet in the direction of 
> unscrewing
> the stud.  Eventually it worked and I was able to turn the head, 
> unscrewing
> the head/stud combo all the way. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 16:48:43 2013
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	14 Oct 2013 18:48:12 -0400
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 18:47:09 -0400
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	<5E0662AA-A32D-4395-9A69-D84135BA40FA@execulink.com>
	<8A61D08EA651431698B125FA4CB17CF6@Lambert1>
To: "D&B Lambert" <blambert@socal.rr.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Pictures attached - but obviously not for the List.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com



On 2013-10-14, at 5:35 PM, "D&B Lambert" <blambert@socal.rr.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> I will soon have the same issue: how to trim the tonneau around a
soon-to-be
> installed roll bar.  Can you add me to the list of folks you are sending
> pictures to?
> Thanks, Dennis
>
>>>
>> Email me if you want see some pictures of how I did this on our TR6 and I
> will
>> send them along. To make the cuts, you will need some heavy duty
> upholstery
>> shears and to make it decent looking, you will need some material similar
> to
>> the tonneau, some binding material, extra snaps, and access to a heavy
> duty
>> upholstery sewing machine. Some have used velcro for the overlap of the
> cuts
>> you will make rather than snaps, but I did not go this way because the
> velcro
>> tends to collect lint, dirt and pollen.
>>
>> Keith Stewart
>> keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 23:10:26 +0000
	FILETIME=[9196F3E0:01CEC932]
Subject: [TR] New tool.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If you have lift the dot snaps that are really difficult to snap over their
posts you may like this.

I am fitting a new tonneau to my TR3A.  I am fitting it fairly tight as it is
not as generous with material as the last one.  Added to the difference in
size is the fact that my my hands and forearms do not have the strength they
had a few years ago.

So with necessity as the mother of invention I made a tool to help with the
difficult lift the dot snaps.  I took a length of 3/16 steel brake/fuel line
and bent loops in one end to make a handle witha 8" - 10" shaft protruding
from the center of the handle.  Then I ground away half of the tube for the
first half inch of the shaft.  This leaves a half inch concave area at the end
of the shaft.

To use the tool I push the shaft through the lift the dot snap that is
difficult to position.  I place the concave end of the shaft on the post I
want the snap to attach to.  Then I gently move the handle of the tool in the
direction of the post. The lift the dot snap will move down the shaft as it
moves closer to the post.   When I can see the top of the post through the
hole in the snap I press hard on the snap and withdraw the tool.  The snap
then seats on  and engages the post.

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 18:29:29 -0500
To: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] New tool.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
I'll have to try that, pretty clever.   I have the same challenges, tight
tonneau and old hands.  This draws from my old brake spring tool to slide the
springs into place.

Thx,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 14, 2013, at 6:10 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> If you have lift the dot snaps that are really difficult to snap over their
> posts you may like this.
>
> I am fitting a new tonneau to my TR3A.  I am fitting it fairly tight as it
is
> not as generous with material as the last one.  Added to the difference in
> size is the fact that my my hands and forearms do not have the strength
they
> had a few years ago.
>
> So with necessity as the mother of invention I made a tool to help with the
> difficult lift the dot snaps.  I took a length of 3/16 steel brake/fuel
line
> and bent loops in one end to make a handle witha 8" - 10" shaft protruding
> from the center of the handle.  Then I ground away half of the tube for the
> first half inch of the shaft.  This leaves a half inch concave area at the
end
> of the shaft.
>
> To use the tool I push the shaft through the lift the dot snap that is
> difficult to position.  I place the concave end of the shaft on the post I
> want the snap to attach to.  Then I gently move the handle of the tool in
the
> direction of the post. The lift the dot snap will move down the shaft as it
> moves closer to the post.   When I can see the top of the post through the
> hole in the snap I press hard on the snap and withdraw the tool.  The snap
> then seats on  and engages the post.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 18:42:52 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W3A688E06DCD96808CAA7DE51A0@phx.gbl>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:36:24 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] New tool.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not that visual.  could you post a picture of the tool and how you use 
it?


-----Original Message----- 
From: tom white
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 6:10 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] New tool.

If you have lift the dot snaps that are really difficult to snap over their
posts you may like this.

I am fitting a new tonneau to my TR3A.  I am fitting it fairly tight as it 
is
not as generous with material as the last one.  Added to the difference in
size is the fact that my my hands and forearms do not have the strength they
had a few years ago.

So with necessity as the mother of invention I made a tool to help with the
difficult lift the dot snaps.  I took a length of 3/16 steel brake/fuel line
and bent loops in one end to make a handle witha 8" - 10" shaft protruding
from the center of the handle.  Then I ground away half of the tube for the
first half inch of the shaft.  This leaves a half inch concave area at the 
end
of the shaft.

To use the tool I push the shaft through the lift the dot snap that is
difficult to position.  I place the concave end of the shaft on the post I
want the snap to attach to.  Then I gently move the handle of the tool in 
the
direction of the post. The lift the dot snap will move down the shaft as it
moves closer to the post.   When I can see the top of the post through the
hole in the snap I press hard on the snap and withdraw the tool.  The snap
then seats on  and engages the post.

Best regards, 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 19:19:38 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3C503718A3044484B36F5B1940938911@DaveLaptop>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 18:19:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7I7Fjrjdizg35zQAyhMyvWVSWNRgAVgQrA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,
I just put new door seals in my 4A (in the channels) and have to slam the
doors in order to get them to shut. After one week they seem to be loosening
a little. I seem to recall the last set took a few months.

If you go to the one piece design let us know how it turns out.

BTW my feet used to kick the seal out of it's track all the time when I
would get in or out of the car, which is why I replaced them. I made sure I
cleaned out the channels real well before installing the new one but I'm
afraid these will do the same thing as they were relatively easy to install.
If someone has a good idea to keep these in let us know.

Johnnie
'67 TR4A

> 
> List,
> I have installed the rubber door seals that fit into the metal track
> and I can't get the doors closed all the way. I am considering removing
> that seal and going with the the other type of seal that slides over
> the flange around the door opening. I was wondering what type of door
> seal some of the other TR4/TR4A owners are using? I would think that
> eventually the seal I have would compress but I am suspicious of the
> fact that the seal I have may be larger than the original and will
> never compress enough to get the doors all the way closed. They are
> about 3/8" from completely closing.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 19:21:07 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:20:42 -0600
References: <BLU180-W3A688E06DCD96808CAA7DE51A0@phx.gbl>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] New tool.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is exactly why I love this list. Thanks Tom.

Nothing like the Borg to produce an elegant solution. I've come to  
depend on it.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Oct 14, 2013, at 5:10 PM, tom white wrote:

> If you have lift the dot snaps that are really difficult to snap  
> over their
> posts you may like this.
>
> I am fitting a new tonneau to my TR3A.  I am fitting it fairly tight  
> as it is
> not as generous with material as the last one.  Added to the  
> difference in
> size is the fact that my my hands and forearms do not have the  
> strength they
> had a few years ago.
>
> So with necessity as the mother of invention I made a tool to help  
> with the
> difficult lift the dot snaps.  I took a length of 3/16 steel brake/ 
> fuel line
> and bent loops in one end to make a handle witha 8" - 10" shaft  
> protruding
> from the center of the handle.  Then I ground away half of the tube  
> for the
> first half inch of the shaft.  This leaves a half inch concave area  
> at the end
> of the shaft.
>
> To use the tool I push the shaft through the lift the dot snap that is
> difficult to position.  I place the concave end of the shaft on the  
> post I
> want the snap to attach to.  Then I gently move the handle of the  
> tool in the
> direction of the post. The lift the dot snap will move down the  
> shaft as it
> moves closer to the post.   When I can see the top of the post  
> through the
> hole in the snap I press hard on the snap and withdraw the tool.   
> The snap
> then seats on  and engages the post.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:00:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Listers <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Peter Arakelian
  <peterara@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

when I can get one of those big red plumbers wrenches on a stud or bolt, it
has not failed to move it yet.
the type that bites hard.

http://www.toolup.com/ridgid_31280_20-straight-hex-wrench-model-25.aspx?utm_s
ource=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=
scplp1070438&gclid=CMG_1Y_fl7oCFYs1QgodTi8AeA

that type.

Frank
--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 10/14/13, Peter Arakelian <peterara@msn.com> wrote:

 Subject: [TR] TR6 head removal
 To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
 Date: Monday, October 14, 2013, 1:34 AM

 I would like to thank all who have so
 far tried to help me with my problem.
 I have tried almost all that was suggested:  I have
 double checked and nothing
 remains attached, I have cranked the motor over with plugs
 in, I have tried
 the rope trick by both hand pushing the car and bumping the
 starter, I have
 tried the various suggestions of prying at various points
 and ways, I have
 applied heat, I have pulled the manifold studs, I have been
 soaking for a day
 and a half with various penetrants as well as one that
 freezes as it applies
 its penetrant.  I have not tried a couple of
 methods:  Jonmac's factory method
 of clamping head and block with wood and striking, paraffin,
 or engine hoist.
 Still stuck.  I have tried double nutting the studs,
 but cannot get the nuts
 tight enough together to turn the stud before turning each
 other.  I have been
 using two head nuts and cannot torque to full spec, 80 ft
 lbs, before feeling
 the give of the top nut and the beginnings of buggering the
 threads of the
 studs.  I will be getting some grade 8 jam nuts in the
 hopes that getting a
 bigger bite of the stud on the nut will enable me to get
 them tighter
 together.  All seven studs on the right side and one on
 the left are still
 stuck.
 My friends here are going to call their friends in shops for
 more help and
 advice, before I end up having it towed to a shop.
 Any and all additional suggestions or comments would be
 appreciated.  Direct
 please, I am on digest version.
 Thanks, Peter

 ** triumphs@autox.team.net
 **

 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 20:06:54 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3C503718A3044484B36F5B1940938911@DaveLaptop>
	<004701cec944$886df630$9949e290$@rr.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 21:00:24 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Door seals on my TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

try using this:  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/datsun/DSCN8456.JPG


BTW my feet used to kick the seal out of it's track all the time when I
would get in or out of the car, which is why I replaced them. I made sure I
cleaned out the channels real well before installing the new one but I'm
afraid these will do the same thing as they were relatively easy to install.
If someone has a good idea to keep these in let us know.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 14 20:57:10 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 20:53:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Washer for head bolt - TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Would anyone have an extra washer laying around, all sad and sorry, because it
no longer belongs to an engine?  Ibm happy to give it a new home

Itbs a 1/2 ID, 7/8 OD flat washer.  Nothing special except the narrow OD,
but I canbt find one locally, and have no idea what happened to the
original.

Many thanks,

Cliff

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of wlEmoticon-smile[1].png]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 07:59:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Q <hdrider570@att.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had similar problems with a GT6 head.  The motor had been sitting out of the
car for at least a decade and it looked like someone had tried to remove the
head unsuccessfully in the past.  I soaked the studs for several days with P B
Blaster and placed the motor on an engine stand and removed as many of the
studs as I could.  I used two new grade 8 nuts of standard thickness to remove
as many of the studs as I could.
 
I was left with five studs still in place
on the pushrod side.  I placed a heavy piece of angle iron over the tops of
the studs and clamped it down with several large C clamps to create pressure
on the head against the studs.  Turned the motor upside down and used two
sledge hammers at low velocity to strike the C clamps.  The head moved enough
that I was able to drive a thin wedge between the motor and the head.  I
worked both ends till the head came off.
 
As in the case of others who
responded the studs came out of the block easily once the head was off.  The
wedge only effected about 1/8" of the edge of the block so no gasket issues
later.  The motor is rebuilt now and running nicely.
 
Edward Hamer
Petaluma
CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 10:15:19 2013
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From: "D&B Lambert" <blambert@socal.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <61966.5e4a8d74.3f8dc8f0@cs.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 09:12:40 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7JLBw/MmWuP/IMQqeW8tu65HGxEQAlQ++w
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes. In my case the engine was out, making the process quite simple.  In the
case of the referenced guy on the Six-Pack forum, the pictures show him
doing it in-situ.  Also, as in my case, the stuck stud was in the middle of
the head, balancing things nicely.
Dennis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey@cs.com
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 3:24 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head removal
> 
> I can see how that would work quite handily if the engine is removed from
> the car but it will either maybe work or not at all depending on which
stud
> it is.
> 
> But a clever solution at any rate.  Let's hope it helps Peter out.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 13:28:35 2013
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	UTC
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 12:27:36 -0700
From: "hdrider570@att.net" <hdrider570@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
	Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]  Washer for head bolt - TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You may not need one asthe rear right head bolt does not have a washer 
as the engine lift hoop goes there.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 22:27:51 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 19:55:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A  door seals
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all that replied. I suspect my problem is the Moss sourced door
seals may be a bit larger than the originals.
And thanks for the tip on the 3M adhesive Dave..
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 22:42:24 2013
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From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>
To: <hdrider570@att.net>
References: <525D9728.5040803@att.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 18:41:11 -0600
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Washer for head bolt - TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You may be right.  Parts book lists 10 washers and there are 10 studs, I 
think I'd rather fit one.

Thanks very much to those who offered to send one.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: hdrider570@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 1:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Washer for head bolt - TR4A

You may not need one asthe rear right head bolt does not have a washer
as the engine lift hoop goes there.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen@earthlink.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 15 22:56:29 2013
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 03:32:51 +0000
	FILETIME=[64E0C760:01CECA20]
Subject: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

At this point I have the rear section of the new tonneau properly fitted to my
TR3A.  I have constructed a template for the roll bar relief holes for both
sides of the car.  And I have fitted the forward lift the dot fasteners on the
driver's side.

It seems to me that I cannot just lay the new tonneau on the floor and then
trace the templates onto it.  If I did that there would be no allowance for
the stretch of the tonneau when fully fastened.

So I plan to get as many lift the dot fasteners in place and fastened as
possible without distorting the tonneau against the roll bar.  Then I can
index the tonneau to the center lines of the roll bar tubes and then index the
templates to the tonneau,  At that point I think I can trace the template
pattern onto the tonneau and cut my relief holes.

Any comments are welcome before I do something stupid.

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Edward, I am happy to hear you were able to Hamer it out

Larry

  Turned the motor upside down and used*two
sledge hammers*at low velocity to strike the C clamps.  The head moved enough
that I was able to drive a thin wedge between the motor and the head.  I
worked both ends till the head came off.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 00:53:49 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'tom white'" <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU180-W47937FCC2E709F009E0C24E5040@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 01:52:24 -0400
Thread-index: AQKEoeQSj3ICeYwVkXyVcYyF7+Mm3piLIxzg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom - I had thought about this as well.  Would it be possible to use a
shorter cardboard tube or maybe PVC pipe to mimic the uprights so that you
could mark  the underside of the installed tonneau?  

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2013 11:33 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau.

At this point I have the rear section of the new tonneau properly fitted to
my TR3A.  I have constructed a template for the roll bar relief holes for
both sides of the car.  And I have fitted the forward lift the dot fasteners
on the driver's side.

It seems to me that I cannot just lay the new tonneau on the floor and then
trace the templates onto it.  If I did that there would be no allowance for
the stretch of the tonneau when fully fastened.

So I plan to get as many lift the dot fasteners in place and fastened as
possible without distorting the tonneau against the roll bar.  Then I can
index the tonneau to the center lines of the roll bar tubes and then index
the templates to the tonneau,  At that point I think I can trace the
template pattern onto the tonneau and cut my relief holes.

Any comments are welcome before I do something stupid.

Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 11:58:59 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 12:57:21 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac7KkG+3aMIJYLYhRoK+KEsqP+cOMw==
Subject: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I understand how the outer trim ring attaches but my question is should the
clip at the bottom be closed or open.  In other words, is it open enough for
the tab to push through and latch or is it closed and the tab has to be
pushed below the clip and into the opening?  

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 12:07:25 2013
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References: <BLU180-W47937FCC2E709F009E0C24E5040@phx.gbl>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 08:39:32 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Roll bar and tonneau.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I looked at the one on my TR6 last night - it was given to me with the
roll bar I bought for $100 bucks - great deal!

The individual that modified this tonneau did a fine job.  They made
separate vinyl pieces that fit around the rollbar upright that is complete
with velcro closure.it looks like they located it after the tonneau was in
place (based on the witness marks on the underside of the tonneau and then
sewed these pieces in place.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 12:51:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 18:51:05 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>, cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote: 
> I understand how the outer trim ring attaches but my question is should the
> clip at the bottom be closed or open.  In other words, is it open enough for
> the tab to push through and latch or is it closed and the tab has to be
> pushed below the clip and into the opening?  

I could be mistaken, but I believe the clip is supposed to be closed (or nearly so), and the tab spreads the legs of the (spring) clip as it gets pushed into place.  But I've always had to use the back end of the removal tool to push the tabs through, so maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 12:58:57 2013
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From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tr4 door seals
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,
FYI: I have a 1/4" snippit from a 'new old stock' TR4/4A door seal (which was
on eBay, and winner sent me a snippit).. and shown alongside TRF's 'made in
England' version from a couple years ago (I can send you photo) -  they are
not greatly matched. TRF's foot piece is smaller than original, and the folded
over foam portion, which is supposed to be all foam, is partially solid
rubber. And the profile is slightly different - this combination makes it;
loose in the channel, overly wide, and difficult to squish.
Good luck!

Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


Thanks to all that replied. I suspect my problem is the Moss sourced door
seals may be a bit larger than the originals.
And thanks for the tip on the 3M adhesive Dave..
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 16 20:17:08 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2013 22:16:19 -0400
From: Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Event next summer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Starting to look at next summer's calendar already and since we missed the
VARAC races at Mosport this year, wanted to be sure to get them next summer.
Looks good:

http://varac.ca/news/varac-2014-canadian-historic-grand-prix-at-mosport-june-13-15/

Went there last year with the grandson, who at 7 years old found it very
interesting to go down to  the creek to catch frogs. And here I thought
he'd be into the cars!
This summer he asked if we were going again, but we had other obligations,
so next year we don't want to miss it.
Jim

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2013 18:35:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] cool heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've finally hooked up my after-market heater in the tr-3 (myradine)sp?  I
plan on driving the car right up to the first snow so I wanted to see how well
it worked.  I drove around for 20 minutes in 50 degree weather with top up but
no sidescreens on.  


I was a little surprised in that I thought the flow of
air would be stronger on the highest setting.  On the highest level it was ok
but not what expected.  Especially when all air was diverted to the
defrosters.......barely could feel air on passenger side windscreen but it was
stronger on drivers side windscreen.  


I also was surprised at the
temperature of the air.  It was warm but not hot.  I could feel the heater
hoses with my bare hands without feeling burned or uncomfortable (after the 20
minute run).  I then went to the engine and also put hands on the radiator
hoses.....upper and lower without major pain.  Upper was some warmer.  


My
temperature guage is not accurate but in testing the radiator with a meat
thermometer I'm from 180 to 185.

I'm thinking that buttoning the car up with
sidescreens, I'll be very comfortable with the heater in cool weather.  It
won't have to heat the car in typical Iowa winter weather.  I'm just surprised
at how cool the car seems to be running.  It's a good problem to have!  Anyone
else have similar results?
gary n.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 17 23:40:13 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2013 22:39:42 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7LonirmU2AJyX1QmeGfk5Xx0f7IQAH75Jw
Subject: Re: [TR] cool heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I then went to the engine and also put hands on 
> the radiator
> hoses.....upper and lower without major pain.  Upper was some 
> warmer.  
> 
> My
> temperature guage is not accurate but in testing the radiator 
> with a meat
> thermometer I'm from 180 to 185.

This part puzzles me.  You're saying that the radiator is hot, but the hose leading to it is not?  How thick were your mittens?  I
can't hold my hand on 180F even with major pain.

However, if your thermostat is working properly, I would expect to find the bottom of the radiator significantly cooler in cooler
weather (assuming there is air flowing through it).  At 50F outdoors, the upper hose & tank should be hot though (about the same
temperature your thermostat opens at).  If not, your thermostat may be stuck open.

I've had similar problems (when I lived in a cooler climate) with lack of circulation through the heater.  The stock pipes & hoses
are small and long, and seem to present a lot of resistance to flow compared to the path through the head and bypass hose.
Something that might be worth fiddling with (but I never tried for that purpose) would be adding some restriction to the bypass, to
force more water through the heater.

I actually went as far as enlarging the holes in the head & water pump housing, and replumbing the system in larger pipes & hoses
(1/2" id copper pipe plus short couplers of 5/8" heater hose).  But then I moved to CA and never got to see how much improvement I
achieved.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 18 06:16:04 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2013 08:15:25 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] cool heater
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I forgot what drove me to do this but many years ago I pulled my heater and 
backflushed it.  The amount of crud I got out of that thing was amazing.  
Since both hoses connect at the top any crud that gets in there stays there.  
Using a hose I flushed it one way and then the other and back and forth 
until the amount of stuff coming out reduced to the point that I thought I was 
starting to waste my time (either that or I got bored with the process).

I don't know if it helped or not since I have my TR6 for cold weather 
driving but it could help.

Dave

In a message dated 10/17/2013 8:35:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg@yahoo.com writes: 
> I was a little surprised in that I thought the flow of
> air would be stronger on the highest setting.  On the highest level it was 
> ok
> but not what expected.  Especially when all air was diverted to the
> defrosters.......barely could feel air on passenger side windscreen but it 
> was
> stronger on drivers side windscreen.  
> 
> I also was surprised at the temperature of the air.  It was warm but not 
> hot.  I could feel the heater
> hoses with my bare hands without feeling burned or uncomfortable (after 
> the 20
> minute run).  I then went to the engine and also put hands on the radiator
> hoses.....upper and lower without major pain.  Upper was some warmer.  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2013 11:37:49 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>, nafzigerg@yahoo.com
Subject: [TR] TR3 maradyne heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recommended the Maradyne to a friend of mine who buit up a TR3 rat rod
from a less than optimal Ebay purchase..

He did the normal swapping of fittings and worked hard to keep the number
of 90 degree turns down and is happy with the results.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Robert Suchy
Date: Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 9:50 AM
Subject: TR3 heater and control valve
To: Chris Simo

 Good morning Chris! I just wanted to send you some pictures of the
Meradyne heater in my TR3 and the heater control valve I installed. The
valve is the one you recommended that is like the one Pual has. I ordered
mine off the Internet. The heater and the valve work really well. Frank and
I drove the TR3 to the TCOC dinner last Thursday. It was really chilly
while we were driving home, so Frank said let's try the heater. I reached
over and pulled the cable knob for the heater control valve and Frank
turned on the heater fan and out flowed nice warm air. I think that
Meradyne heater warms the TR3 better than the original heater. I think it
might be ok to drive the TR3 with the top down during the winter unless it
is really cold. Will still need coat and hat since the cold air still comes
in over the doors, but it will probably be bearable, even for cold blooded
me. :-)

Regards,
Bob

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5163.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_5164.JPG]

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	UTC
From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2013 11:26:20 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7MHrfV+nss1fVNSa+529TX/GF23Q==
Subject: [TR] Happy Birthday TCF2549L
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

51 years ago today as the production of the TR3 was weeks from concluding
TCF2549L "Aunt B" was produced and despatched to the US, as all TR3Bs were.
Delivered to a dealer in New Jersey she spent most of her life in the
Pennsylvania/New England area until moving to Houston about 10 years ago.  I
have owned the car for about a year now and am slowly restoring her past the
many neglected years of sand & salt driving.
 
IF you know anything of this car, I still have many gaps in the history
line, I would appreciate whatever you might me able to fill in.
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

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From: "Chuck" <triumph.driver@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2013 16:43:31 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7MQrUkhVbHA8nXQiyRamGeMbbDDA==
Subject: [TR] Tom White
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Would Tom White contact me regarding your tonneau installation article?
 
Thanks!
 
Chuck White
triumph.driver@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 06:41:14 2013
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 07:38:26 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,
We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It has been running great until we stopped for gas.

It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have any power and then died.


I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.


Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.


Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.

So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?

2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?

Roger Elliott
68 TR 250

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References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 08:45:50 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A coil going bad will cause the car to quit on you.
Check your other diaphragm.

Al


On Sun, Oct 20, 2013 at 8:38 AM, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:

> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It
> has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have
> any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine
> while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto
> the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1
> diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not
> die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.
>
>
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
>
> So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
>
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
>
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 07:41:14 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 09:36:06 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you by chance fill up with diesel?  With enough gas mixed in it might
still run but poorly.

I don't know of any shops in Hannibal but maybe if you start working on it
whistling a happy tuen you can convince someone else how much fun it is and
they will pay you to work on it for you.

Seriously, it sounds like a typical bad fuel issue and any shop that does more
than oil changes can help.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>


Hi,
We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It has
been running great until we stopped for gas.

It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have any
power and then died.


I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine while
we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto the
highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.


Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 diaphragm.
It
was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not die. The fuel
filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.


Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.

So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?

2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?

Roger Elliott
68 TR 250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 07:41:40 2013
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	20 Oct 2013 13:37:44 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 08:37:55 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It almost has to be electrical or fuel delivery, unlikely that a vacuum leak 
would come up out of the blue and be so bad that it killed the car 
completely.  When you say it doesn't seem to be electrical, have you 
actually checked for spark, pull a plug wire and hold it close to a ground 
while the motor turns over?  When you say it loses power and dies, does it 
just sort of quietly run out of steam and then dies, or miss and run rough 
then die?

Lastly, don't know about a local mechanic, question for the list, isn't 
there a Triumph Touring Rescue Society or something like that out there with 
a list of people nationwide who have tools, garages, and some expertise to 
help in situations like this?

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo

> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It 
> has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have 
> any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine 
> while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto 
> the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies 
> again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 
> diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would 
> not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas 
> through.
>
>
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
>
> So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
>
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
>
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 08:01:50 2013
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: "'Roger Elliott'" <elliottr@rmi.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<CB9344039906418D8E72DC079F241DBE@livingroompc>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 09:01:03 -0500
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	FILETIME=[D0603000:01CECD9C]
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In Missouri some pumps have diesel and gasoline from the same pump.  But
usually gasoline is one pump hose and diesel is a different (green) pump
hose and handle.  

If you need someone with Triumph experience, our closest St. Louis Triumph
Owners Association member is Bill Wahl in Louisiana MO 573-754-4820.


Creig Houghtlaing 314-401-7817
St. Louis Triumph Owners Association
www.sltoa.org




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 8:38 AM
To: Roger Elliott; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo

It almost has to be electrical or fuel delivery, unlikely that a vacuum leak
would come up out of the blue and be so bad that it killed the car
completely.  When you say it doesn't seem to be electrical, have you
actually checked for spark, pull a plug wire and hold it close to a ground
while the motor turns over?  When you say it loses power and dies, does it
just sort of quietly run out of steam and then dies, or miss and run rough
then die?

Lastly, don't know about a local mechanic, question for the list, isn't
there a Triumph Touring Rescue Society or something like that out there with
a list of people nationwide who have tools, garages, and some expertise to
help in situations like this?

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo

> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  
> It has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't 
> have any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran 
> fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we 
> got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power 
> and dies again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 
> diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably 
> would not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the 
> gas through.
>
>
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
>
> So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
>
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
>
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 07:13:18 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.6; rv:24.0)
	Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.0.1
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	<CB9344039906418D8E72DC079F241DBE@livingroompc>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/20/13 6:37 AM, Greg Lemon wrote:
>  When you say it loses power and dies, does it just sort of quietly 
> run out of steam and then dies, or miss and run rough then die?
I once accidentally filled 2 of the Land Rover's 3 fuel tanks up with 
diesel.  I was tired and it was the first time I had encountered a 
single pump stand that pumped both petrol and diesel. The truck ran fine 
as I left the station  but as I was on the nearby freeway on ramp the 
truck suddenly started acting like a gremlin had suddenly randomly 
swapped around spark plugs.   It ran sorta with almost no power and laid 
out a black smoke screen out the rear.

A local shop pumped out one of my fuel tanks to use in their shop heater 
and I took the other one home to be used as solvent.

There is no confusing a petrol engine running on diesel with an 
electrical problem.

Could be:

- Coil going bad
- Condenser going bad
- Slipped points
- clogged fuel filter but you replaced it
- hole in fuel pump diaphragm
- water in fuel - check sediment bowl but do not remove it unless you 
have a spare sediment bowl gasket in hand
- float valve not opening.

Probably more but these are likely the most common.  My vote is a bad 
condenser.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 08:34:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Roger Elliott
	<elliottr@rmi.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had that happen with my MGB.....turned out the gas was bad ...lots of water
in it.  I put in 6 cans of HEET gas treatment to dry out the gas and got it
running good enough to go down the road....burned out half I f that gas and
refilled and it ran fine.   

You'd know if you filled with diesel.  1. It
smells WAY different than gas an 2. Its 70 cents or more expensive than gas. 
We're just driving through st. Louis now.

If you're headed back through Tulsa
say hey on the way through. 

Chad in Tulsa

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 11:00:58 -0600
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Compression, spark, fuel. Assuming you didn't blown all the rings out  
at once you need to know if you have spark at the end of a spark plug  
wire and gas from the fuel pump to the carbs. Testing for spark should  
be easy, testing for fuel flow means pulling a fuel line and turning  
the engine over for a few spins.

That will get you on the right track. Basically go back from there in  
that system to see what the problem is and what part isn't doing it's  
job.  E.g. if there's no gas then check the fuel pump, if no spark  
check the cap/rotor and so on.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Oct 20, 2013, at 6:38 AM, Roger Elliott wrote:

> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last  
> week.  It has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it  
> didn't have any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran  
> fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we  
> we got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of  
> power and dies again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1  
> diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably  
> would not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the  
> gas through.
>
>
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
>
> So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
>
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
>
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 11:16:24 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 12:10:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

if you have electronic ignition, and the alternator is going bad, those are 
pretty much the symptoms.  ask me how I know . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: Roger Elliott
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo

Hi,
We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It 
has been running great until we stopped for gas.

It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have 
any power and then died.


I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine 
while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto 
the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.


Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 diaphragm. 
It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not die. The 
fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.


Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.

So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?

2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?

Roger Elliott
68 TR 250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 13:54:46 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<54030BD67DF14CB580436180EE1F589B@Datsun>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 15:53:34 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  - TANK VENY CLOG
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As it was running for a bit before dieing.... just open up the gas cap and 
see if it runs right away.
...this is the result of a clogged tank vent
The vacuum in the tank is limiting fuel flow

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo


> if you have electronic ignition, and the alternator is going bad, those 
> are pretty much the symptoms.  ask me how I know . . .
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Roger Elliott
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo
>
> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It 
> has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have 
> any power and then died.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 19:01:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 20:00:33 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<54030BD67DF14CB580436180EE1F589B@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the suggestions.  We ended up renting a truck and trailer to 
get the car home.

A few more details that I did not include in the first email as I was 
using a tablet and it was not working well.

Car has a Pertronix on it (couple of years old).  Would it fail this way 
or just quit?

Alternator seems to be good.  Ammeter is indicating charging when I 
would expect it it and a drain basically only when starting.

I am pretty sure the pump we used did not have diesel and I know I 
pressed the 91 octane button, so I don't think that is the problem.

The last couple of times it died on a test drive this morning, I pulled 
over to the side, and the car started back up immediately and could 
drive another mile.  So, it was off for less than a minute. My thinking 
is that would not be long enough for the coil to cool down.  But this 
makes it very hard to check spark or gas problems because by the time I 
could open the hood, it would be willing to run again. Seems to idle fine.

The car doesn't sputter.  It just seems to run out of steam and dies.  I 
have to keep pressing the pedal more and the car keeps slowing down 
until it dies.

I checked the other diaphragm this morning.   It was fine.

The car does run rich, but it has for a long time and it does not seem 
to richer now than in the past based on fuel consumption.

I guess I am leaning towards the fuel pump, the coil, one of the hoses I 
did not replace, or the floats getting stuck.

Thaks everyone.
Roger

On 10/20/2013 12:10 PM, Dave wrote:
> if you have electronic ignition, and the alternator is going bad, 
> those are pretty much the symptoms.  ask me how I know . . .
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo
>
> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  
> It has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't 
> have any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran 
> fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we 
> got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power 
> and dies again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 
> diaphragm. It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would 
> not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas 
> through.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 19:48:36 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Roger Elliott'" <elliottr@rmi.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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	<54030BD67DF14CB580436180EE1F589B@Datsun> <52647CB1.2050500@rmi.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had 2 Pertronix units fail, neither time was it a complete quit, but
the symptoms were misfiring and backfiring. Still, might be worth putting in
points, at least until you figure out what's going on.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:01 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the suggestions.  We ended up renting a truck and trailer to get
the car home.

A few more details that I did not include in the first email as I was using
a tablet and it was not working well.

Car has a Pertronix on it (couple of years old).  Would it fail this way or
just quit?

Alternator seems to be good.  Ammeter is indicating charging when I would
expect it it and a drain basically only when starting.

I am pretty sure the pump we used did not have diesel and I know I pressed
the 91 octane button, so I don't think that is the problem.

The last couple of times it died on a test drive this morning, I pulled over
to the side, and the car started back up immediately and could drive another
mile.  So, it was off for less than a minute. My thinking is that would not
be long enough for the coil to cool down.  But this makes it very hard to
check spark or gas problems because by the time I could open the hood, it
would be willing to run again. Seems to idle fine.

The car doesn't sputter.  It just seems to run out of steam and dies.  I
have to keep pressing the pedal more and the car keeps slowing down until it
dies.

I checked the other diaphragm this morning.   It was fine.

The car does run rich, but it has for a long time and it does not seem to
richer now than in the past based on fuel consumption.

I guess I am leaning towards the fuel pump, the coil, one of the hoses I did
not replace, or the floats getting stuck.

Thaks everyone.
Roger

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 21:18:42 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Sun, 20 Oct 2013 22:17:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<54030BD67DF14CB580436180EE1F589B@Datsun> <52647CB1.2050500@rmi.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 23:17:43 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

did you check for fuel flow blockage (tank segiment)
and or vacuum in the tank (blocked vent starving the carbs)

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo


> Hi Everyone,
> Thanks for the suggestions.  We ended up renting a truck and trailer to 
> get the car home.
> 
> A few more details that I did not include in the first email as I was 
> using a tablet and it was not working well.
> 
> Car has a Pertronix on it (couple of years old).  Would it fail this way 
> or just quit?
> 
> Alternator seems to be good.  Ammeter is indicating charging when I 
> would expect it it and a drain basically only when starting.
> 
> I am pretty sure the pump we used did not have diesel and I know I 
> pressed the 91 octane button, so I don't think that is the problem.
> 
> The last couple of times it died on a test drive this morning, I pulled 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 21:57:04 2013
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References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<54030BD67DF14CB580436180EE1F589B@Datsun> <52647CB1.2050500@rmi.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 22:51:06 -0500
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Roger, good to hear you made it home.   From that. Description I would point
to the fuel filter, then points and condenser.
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 20, 2013, at 8:00 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
> Thanks for the suggestions.  We ended up renting a truck and trailer to get
the car home.
>
> A few more details that I did not include in the first email as I was using
a tablet and it was not working well.
>
> Car has a Pertronix on it (couple of years old).  Would it fail this way or
just quit?
>
> Alternator seems to be good.  Ammeter is indicating charging when I would
expect it it and a drain basically only when starting.
>
> I am pretty sure the pump we used did not have diesel and I know I pressed
the 91 octane button, so I don't think that is the problem.
>
> The last couple of times it died on a test drive this morning, I pulled over
to the side, and the car started back up immediately and could drive another
mile.  So, it was off for less than a minute. My thinking is that would not be
long enough for the coil to cool down.  But this makes it very hard to check
spark or gas problems because by the time I could open the hood, it would be
willing to run again. Seems to idle fine.
>
> The car doesn't sputter.  It just seems to run out of steam and dies.  I
have to keep pressing the pedal more and the car keeps slowing down until it
dies.
>
> I checked the other diaphragm this morning.   It was fine.
>
> The car does run rich, but it has for a long time and it does not seem to
richer now than in the past based on fuel consumption.
>
> I guess I am leaning towards the fuel pump, the coil, one of the hoses I did
not replace, or the floats getting stuck.
>
> Thaks everyone.
> Roger
>
>> On 10/20/2013 12:10 PM, Dave wrote:
>> if you have electronic ignition, and the alternator is going bad, those are
pretty much the symptoms.  ask me how I know . . .
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott
>> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38 AM
>> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo
>>
>> Hi,
>> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It
has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>>
>> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have
any power and then died.
>>
>>
>> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine
while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto the
highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.
>>
>>
>> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1
diaphragm. It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not
die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 20 21:57:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 03:52:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
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Check the little wire that connects the breaker plate to the distributer body.  The rivet can loosen and give intermittent results.  I had this happen to my TR4, and moved the wire to the stud that mounts the Pertronix.  No problem ever again.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Elliott" <elliottr@rmi.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 7:38:26 AM
> Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal, Mo
> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.
> It has been running great until we stopped for gas.
> 
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't
> have any power and then died.
> 
> 
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran
> fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt. But then, we we
> got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power
> and dies again.
> 
> 
> Hoses were still in place. I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1
> diaphragm. It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would
> not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas
> through.
> 
> 
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
> 
> So, I have 2 questions. 1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
> 
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
> 
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message:  1
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2013 07:38:26 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Roger Elliott  <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Car  trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Message-ID:
<32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>


Hi,
We have been  driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It 
has been  running great until we stopped for gas.


Roger,
 
My guess is the condenser is failing.  Happened to my 4A. It  sputtered and 
died as if had run out of gas.  Good luck.
 
 

 
Rodney  Ford,
Positive Earth Drivers Club
Brick, NJ

Triumph TR4A  IRS
Triumph TR 7 Spider

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 05:37:03 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 07:35:55 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like fuel delivery to me.  BTDT.  You may have picked up some crud 
that is blocking the fuel line and only allowing enough fuel to support idle. 
 Once you take off and empty the float bowls the car dies.

Dave

In a message dated 10/20/2013 8:00:41 PM Central Daylight Time, 
elliottr@rmi.net writes: 
> The last couple of times it died on a test drive this morning, I pulled 
> over to the side, and the car started back up immediately and could 
> drive another mile.  So, it was off for less than a minute. My thinking 
> is that would not be long enough for the coil to cool down.  But this 
> makes it very hard to check spark or gas problems because by the time I 
> could open the hood, it would be willing to run again. Seems to idle fine.
> 
> The car doesn't sputter.  It just seems to run out of steam and dies.  I 
> have to keep pressing the pedal more and the car keeps slowing down 
> until it dies.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: David Gunn <ccgunn1010@hotmail.com>
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 08:22:02 -0700
	FILETIME=[4B175650:01CECE71]
Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pics
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Hi - In case anyone is curious, I have uploaded the pics I took at the 2013
Triumphest/VTR to my Flickr page at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157636342731323/with/10394986455/

Enjoy,

David

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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pics
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Thanks David, some great pics. There are more on
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/ Click on Triumphest Pics for a slide show
including all the events and parties and on Sonoma Raceway laps for a video
of the parade laps around the raceway.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Gunn
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2013 8:22 AM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR Pics

Hi - In case anyone is curious, I have uploaded the pics I took at the 2013
Triumphest/VTR to my Flickr page at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157636342731323/with/10394986455/

Enjoy,

David

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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 07:32:23 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac7Oi+JRLwBo0CGhRkSHWz94XMQ23Q==
Subject: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A while ago I reconditioned my fuel pump and managed to put it back with the
lever under the camshaft instead of over or was it vica versa.
Whichever it was the wrong way and it did the same as yours ran then
sputtered until I hand pumped it again.
I checked the carbie bowls and no petrol.
Have you tried disconnecting the fuel line and turning the key to see if
petrol is pumping?
 
Jim and the TR4 in bits.
Gradually coming back together.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 13:50:36 2013
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 12:49:29 -0700
Thread-Topic: TR6 head removal
Thread-Index: Ac7OlUi5SzoqOKo9Ra6ygXvElhOUQA==
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
acceptlanguage: en-US
Subject: [TR] TR6 head removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just thought I'd give everyone an update.
As you may recall, I had to pull the head for a bad head gasket and had 9
stuck studs.  After a week of soaking I managed to get the two under the valve
cover loose by double nutting with grade 8 jam nuts.  The seven on the right
stripped the nuts.  I used a stud removal tool to get three of them out, but
the other four are still there even after a 24-inch pipe wrench.
I have contacted XK's Unlimited in San Luis Obispo, about 60 miles from me.
They are going to come down with a trailer and pick up my car.  After some
discussions with friends I have decided to rebuild the entire engine.  Even
though it was running great, it does have about 190, 000 miles on it and
figured as long as we are a third of the way in, might as well freshen the
whole engine before something breaks. Cheaper to refresh than fix a bad
cylinder or crank or whatever.
So next time you see my car it might actually be clean under the hood instead
of being rust proofed by the leak in the timing cover seal or sealing block.
Will give you more of an update on the other side of the work.
Thanks for all the advice...
Peter - 1971 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 15:53:34 2013
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Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 14:52:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] '74 TR6 for sale in Los Angeles area for $3,500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

b74 TR6 b red, California car, no rust, straight,
complete with rebuilt,
assembled engine and transmission out of car. I have
owned the car for 25
years but need to make room in garage for other
vehicles.B  Clean title and
registered in
CA.
B 
It simply is a case of starting a high-quality rebuild
project and letting life/time get into the way.B 
I see it as a great
opportunity for someone with more time on their
hands to finish the
assembly.B  I just do
not have the time and want it to go to a good home.B B 
B 
A $3,500 offer takes it (I probably have more than this
in new parts).
B 
Body:
B7B B B B B B B B  Straight,
complete, no rust, California car
B7B B B B B B B B  Paint
is oxidized
B7B B B B B B B B  Good
top, oxidized
rear window
B7B B B B B B B B  Rotted
Michelin red line tires 
B 
Engine:B B 
B Completely
rebuilt to stock spec, all new, top quality parts and machine
work, never run
B7B B B B B B B B  Top
quality valves, lifters, rockers, cam,
rocker shaft and valve job (all new)
B7B B B B B B B B  Magnafluxed
B7B B B B B B B B  Crank,
rods and pistons have been fully balanced
B7B B B B B B B B  Cylinder
head combustion chambers have been ccbd
B7B B B B B B B B  Aluminum
flywheel (new)
B7B B B B B B B B  New
clutch
B7B B B B B B B B  Spin-on
oil filter adapter (new)
B7B B B B B B B B 
Aluminum
valve cover (new)
B7B B B B B B B B  6
into one header (new)
B7B B B B B B B B  Dual
exhaust, four chrome tipped outlets (new)
B 
Transmissions (2):
B7B B B B B B B B  One
rebuilt by BP Northwest (never run)
B7B B B B B B B B  One
original
B7B B B B B B B B  Fiberglass
transmission
cover (new)
B 
Front suspension:
B7B B B B B B B B  Fully
rebuilt
B7B B B B B B B B  New
Spax shocks
B 
Rear Suspension:
B7B B B B B B B B 
Rebuilt,
new springs and bushings
B7B B B B B B B B  Differential
mount braced
and welded
B 
Please email me (dirtbeard@pacbell.net) if you think you are
interested.B Thank you.
B 
Thank you,
B 
doug

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 16:21:31 2013
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From: "John McMaster" <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 09:17:41 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac7Oq1tv1K61txnBTMaeTkaRthiVjw==
Subject: [TR] Exhaust Flanges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,



I have a set of extractors on my TR6 PI (wide port inlet spacings) that are
very restrictive and I need to make a new set of short outlet pipes to
remove that restriction.  I'm looking for a set of exhaust flange plates
that bolt to the head that I could modify and weld the pipes to before
grafting them on to the existing 6-3-1 extractors that I have.  Does any one
know of a supplier that does these plates?  Any advice appreciated.  Thanks



John Mc

"Fast is First"

'71 TR6 PI

'76 Dolomite 1850

'76 Dolomite Sprint V6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 21 21:27:06 2013
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	22 Oct 2013 03:17:57 +0000
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53d4f.76d4e56c.3f966b9b@cs.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2013 22:18:08 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just saw a news report about contaminated gas in the Omaha area, not so far 
from Hannibal MO, that it might not come from the same refinery...

But I still bet on the fuel blockage or delivery issue too, the fuel 
pressure suck or pushes the debris or sediment to block fuel delivery at a 
constriction point, possibly the pick up in the bottom of tank, then when 
the pressure releases the gas, a very thin and low viscosity liquid, flows 
until the pressure blocks it off again.  I have experienced it on a couple 
cars, including my TR250, which worked fine for a while, then had serious 
issues when sloshing around loosened enough debris to block the fuel intake 
when I took it out for a track day.  Let it sit awhile and it would start 
right up, then quit after a short variable time.  A long trip could slosh 
around the gas and loosen debris too.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 22 20:08:36 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2013 21:04:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

does anyone know anything about these wheels?  they came on a car I just
acquired.

notice the shelby bhubcap.b  its on two of them.  is that with the wheels
or just something that also got put on?

thanks!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc1/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 10:37:14 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 16:35:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: triumph list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
	s=q20121106; t=1382546158;
	bh=uTeubOwmegwWL1xPIpCSRWvZHBBwIgUQVnPG3mUX3Cg=;
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Subject: [TR] Copper/Nickel Tubing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

B 

Where can I buy bulk Cunifer tubing: 1/4" and 5/16"??

B 

Thanks,

B 

Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 11:33:54 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 13:25:22 -0400
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] bushing TR4 stromberg carbs - advice and direction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm goning to put bushings in my TR4 stombergs and replace the MCCH's I
currently have in use.

I did not see perfromance improvement and my gas mileage was low.  I played
with them a little bit and swapped in some different chokes, emulsion tube,
etc,  but I could tell I'd be a while to get them dialed in and I'd have to
buy a set of all the different parts to swap in and out until I found the
performance I desired.

So I'll put them on my TR6 and put the old Zenith's back in service. They
ran well but the holes were oblonged and really leaked at idle.

I saw on one of the forums a step by step for rebushing Strombergs but
can't find it for the life of me -- can anyone point me there?    Also any
advice from those that have done it?  piloted reamer, etc.

Sending them out for a high dollar refurb is not an option for me. (and I
like doing things myself :)).

Thanks  Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 12:35:23 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 11:25:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jay Holekamp <jholekamp@sbcglobal.net>
To: Ed Woods <fogbro1@comcast.net>
Cc: List TR <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Copper/Nickel Brake Line Tubing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ed, This source seems to have everything you might need to make up cunifer hydraulic lines:

http://store.fedhillusa.com/

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 13:40:38 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Carl Sereda <carlsereda@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 carb rebush
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chris,
Just my experience from 1998:
Joe Curto Inc. charged me $40 to ream my 2 Stromberg carbs for 0.10" oversized
throttle shafts. He asked I send my questionable floats (foam seemed to be
cracking from newer gas?), and my rusty carb linkage. He dipped the floats in
gas tank liner fluid to seal and protect them, and he zinc plated the linkage,
making them look and operate like new for additional $15.
>From California I sent just the totally stripped carb bodies and misc. bits
(quite light) to New York and back for cheapest USPost rates.
Very pleased with the results.
Ps; I like the idea you're returning those great Z carbs to your TR4!
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74






I'm goning to put bushings in my TR4 stombergs and replace the MCCH's I


currently have in use.

I did not see perfromance improvement and my gas mileage was low.  I played
with them a little bit and swapped in some different chokes, emulsion tube,
etc,  but I could tell I'd be a while to get them dialed in and I'd have to
buy a set of all the different parts to swap in and out until I found the
performance I desired.

So I'll put them on my TR6 and put the old Zenith's back in service. They
ran well but the holes were oblonged and really leaked at idle.

I saw on one of the forums a step by step for rebushing Strombergs but
can't find it for the life of me -- can anyone point me there?    Also any
advice from those that have done it?  piloted reamer, etc.

Sending them out for a high dollar refurb is not an option for me. (and I
like doing things myself :)).

Thanks  Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 18:01:11 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Carl Sereda'" <carlsereda@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.25.1382551205.6559.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<gjfx1m0160NyJgq01jfyyf>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 16:41:23 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7QJ6m3MBjUlRiATIW8y8dGGq0B/wAIX4eQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 carb rebush
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For what it's worth, I prefer that the carbs be bored and bushed to the
original spec shafts rather than oversize ones.  It is less metal in the air
flow path.

Joe C. (that's Curry not Curto)  ;)


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Sereda
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 12:35 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 carb rebush

Hi Chris,
Just my experience from 1998:
Joe Curto Inc. charged me $40 to ream my 2 Stromberg carbs for 0.10"
oversized
throttle shafts. He asked I send my questionable floats (foam seemed to be
cracking from newer gas?), and my rusty carb linkage. He dipped the floats
in
gas tank liner fluid to seal and protect them, and he zinc plated the
linkage,
making them look and operate like new for additional $15.
>From California I sent just the totally stripped carb bodies and misc. bits
(quite light) to New York and back for cheapest USPost rates.
Very pleased with the results.
Ps; I like the idea you're returning those great Z carbs to your TR4!
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74






I'm goning to put bushings in my TR4 stombergs and replace the MCCH's I


currently have in use.

I did not see perfromance improvement and my gas mileage was low.  I played
with them a little bit and swapped in some different chokes, emulsion tube,
etc,  but I could tell I'd be a while to get them dialed in and I'd have to
buy a set of all the different parts to swap in and out until I found the
performance I desired.

So I'll put them on my TR6 and put the old Zenith's back in service. They
ran well but the holes were oblonged and really leaked at idle.

I saw on one of the forums a step by step for rebushing Strombergs but
can't find it for the life of me -- can anyone point me there?    Also any
advice from those that have done it?  piloted reamer, etc.

Sending them out for a high dollar refurb is not an option for me. (and I
like doing things myself :)).

Thanks  Chris

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 19:17:37 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 17:58:36 -0700
From: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.20 (2009-06-14)
Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My TR3A is finally coming back together.  I have it at Greg Solow's
Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).

They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator.  Somewhere
in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
hole (my current one doesn't).  I checked on ebay and the
prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.

So my options:

1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
   which is amusing and can come in handy.
3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg

I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
the same.


Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
radiators on ebay?  Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?

And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 20:03:58 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 18:42:37 -0700
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com>
To: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi David,

I think you have an option to either have the current radiator cleaned or
re-cored.  Not sure what that would cost these days.

If you go for an aluminum radiator, Im very happy with mine from Wizard
Cooling:

http://wizardcooling.com/1953-1965-triumph-tr2-tr3-aluminum-radiator

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 20:20:50 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 19:50:58 -0600
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Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] bushing TR4 stromberg carbs - advice and direction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe it's just the rubber seals on the shafts? Have you taken them  
apart enough to check?

I went to do the shaft bushings on my ZS carbs one time and found that  
they have rubber seals that can be replaced.

I'd like to give a testimonial for ZS carbs.

I went to look for my ZS jet adjusting tool to take on the road trip  
to VTR this year and saw it was broken Then I realized it had broken a  
couple years ago which meant I'd totally forgotten about it and more  
to the point that I hadn't had to adjust the carbs all that time  
(around 11,000 miles or so). I'm at altitude (Denver) so the elevation  
changes usually involve 5000 ft. when I drive to places like Jekyll  
Island, Galveston, and San Rafael. Constant depression carbs work  
given a fighting chance. Plugs are a nice milk chocolate color too.  
Once you get them right they are great carbs, both for the road (28  
mpg for 2600 miles) and autocross (faster than a TR6 with a LS  
corvette engine) on this last trip.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


On Oct 23, 2013, at 11:25 AM, Chris Simo wrote:

> They
> ran well but the holes were oblonged and really leaked at idle.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 21:21:59 -0500
To: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Option 5) install and electric fan to boost up one of your current radiators.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:58 PM, David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
wrote:
>
> My TR3A is finally coming back together.  I have it at Greg Solow's
> Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).
>
> They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
> are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator.  Somewhere
> in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
> hole (my current one doesn't).  I checked on ebay and the
> prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
> Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.
>
> So my options:
>
> 1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
> 2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
>   which is amusing and can come in handy.
> 3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
> 4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg
>
> I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
> I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
> is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
> the same.
>
>
> Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
> radiators on ebay?  Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?
>
> And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 21:19:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 20:51:39 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/24.0 SeaMonkey/2.21
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANhzkeOeV9Ogyz9fTvs2sXtk+Qw8B5e_9s6mp0913wZvjkOROg@mail.gmail.com>
	<9E22432F-4EE6-498F-AE9D-3AC48F441407@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] bushing TR4 stromberg carbs - advice and direction
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bud R wrote:
> faster than a TR6 with a LS
> corvette engine

Blue?  Formerly in Utah?  Lenny?

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 23 22:07:47 2013
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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net@Daveola.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 20:34:39 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi David-
I bought one for the TVR from Griffin Radiators, and I'm a satisfied 
customer.  They're back east in Piedmont, S.C.  Look them up on the internet 
(www.griffinrad.com) and/or call them at 1-800-722-3723.  You can specify 
your own radiator as I did, by filling out forms provided on their website. 
I can't find a record of how much I paid for it, but I remember it was 
rather expensive, probably in your $700 category.  The product was worth it. 
It's perfect dimensionally, well made, cools much better than stock, and 
it's pretty!  I think they have dealers in California, but custom units come 
from the S.C. factory.
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4 bought new in 1963
70 TVR Vixen race car
and others...

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Ljung Madison
Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:58 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiators

My TR3A is finally coming back together.  I have it at Greg Solow's
Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).

They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator.  Somewhere
in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
hole (my current one doesn't).  I checked on ebay and the
prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.

So my options:

1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
   which is amusing and can come in handy.
3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg

I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
the same.


Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
radiators on ebay?  Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?

And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 00:22:45 2013
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Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2013 22:52:50 -0700
From: David Ljung Madison <team.net@Daveola.com>
To: Dave Hogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com>
	<7999CB55-0707-4DCE-BFC2-67CD8BB2B076@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.20 (2009-06-14)
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 13/10/23 21:42 -0700, Dave Hogye wrote:
> A stock replacement will cost more than aluminum..


To be clear, I already have a stock replacement in my storage.  I
haven't pressure tested it, but it looks like it's in great shape.

I've used the crank on my previous Triumph, though hopefully my
current TR3A will be more reliable, but you never know, and it's nice
to have the option.

It's hard to get a clear picture of how much Aluminum helps.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--- "Why don't we take a vote?" I suggested.                           ----
    "No!" said David. "That's not fair because the majority will win!" 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 04:24:27 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] bushing TR4 stromberg carbs - advice and direction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm getting good stuff here online and online.

Bud makes an interesting point. Should i  put tr6 carbs on the 4? They have
the bushes and the seals. I guess I'd at least need different needles...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 05:42:18 2013
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net@Daveola.com>
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com><7999CB55-0707-4DCE-BFC2-67CD8BB2B076@comcast.net>
	<20131024055250.GA19156@getdave.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 07:43:58 -0400
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The Big 3 manufacturers, that I could find, of aluminum radiators for a 
Triumph are: Griffin, Davis and Wizard Cooling. I got pricey prices from 
each of them for: radiator, 16" Fan, custom fan mounts and fan wire harness 
with temperature sensor.

On my TR6 I have a Wizard aluminum radiator with puller fan (sold by Art 
Lipp) that's worked fine for the past 5 years HOWEVER........ it's more for 
bling than function. On a TR6, the stock radiator is quite adequate IF the 
complete cooling system is in good shape i.e. radiator and engine block. In 
other words, an aluminum radiator isn't going to fix a car with block in bad 
shape cooling wise.

Going back to your original post.......... it sounds like your existing 
radiator doesn't flow properly which leads to cooling concerns by the 
rebuilder. Can it be re-cored if originality is your primary concern? 
Or.....have them test your spare to see how it flows.

Or maybe my question should be........ does the TR3 have inherent cooling 
problems that could be helped by an aluminum radiator that handles hear 
"better"?

Bob

www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org
1975 Mimosa TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff
CVJs
And more....

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Ljung Madison
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:52 AM
To: Dave Hogye
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators

On 13/10/23 21:42 -0700, Dave Hogye wrote:
> A stock replacement will cost more than aluminum..


To be clear, I already have a stock replacement in my storage.  I
haven't pressure tested it, but it looks like it's in great shape.

I've used the crank on my previous Triumph, though hopefully my
current TR3A will be more reliable, but you never know, and it's nice
to have the option.

It's hard to get a clear picture of how much Aluminum helps.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--- "Why don't we take a vote?" I suggested.                           ----
    "No!" said David. "That's not fair because the majority will win!"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 08:19:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am getting ready to pull the engine on my TR3 to rebuild it after
snapping the crank. The first time I pulled the head (about 17 years ago...)
the #4 cylinder was completely blocked off by rust. Last time I rebuilt the
engine (about 11 years and 80,000  miles ago) it was pretty rusty inside the
water jacket area of the block and I de-rusted it pretty well and have used
No-Rosion since. I was thinking of rigging up an electrolytic rust removal
system using a battery charger, blocking off the bottom of the cylinder/piston
area to contain the water just in the block and totally de-rust the water
jacket area of the block. After that I thought about painting it with POR15
before putting new liners back in. It seems like the worst that could happen
would be that the POR15 might eventually flake off and get stuck in the
radiator. has anyone tried this?

     Has anyone ever tried painting the
non-mating surfaces of the wet-liners with hi-temp engine enamel or POR15 or
something to prevent them from rusting? The first set of wet-liners that I
pulled were terribly corroded from the DPO filling the cooling system with a
garden hose.
     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 11:12:42 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:45:34 -0600
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	AD55VJIK041IQ==
Subject: [TR] Plane we saw at VTR 2012
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sad news about the P51 Mustang we saw at the Lone Star Aviation Museum  
in Galveston last year for VTR 2012. They have some incredible  
restorations of WWII warbirds and had been hit hard by hurricane Ike  
in 2009. Lots of hard work had the museum in beautiful shape in  
October 2012.

http://news.msn.com/us/wwii-plane-owned-by-museum-crashes-killing-two

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 11:29:07 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 13:02:02 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lucas 6-cyl PI for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought about just putting this on ebay but wanted to give the list
members first chance.

Upwards of 10 years ago I bought a rebuilt PI system from a friend with the
intention of installing it on a TR250 project.  Well several years ago the
TR250 project was sold to someone who will actually do something with the
car.

So with the car gone it's time to sell the PI unit.

If interested let me know and we can discuss it.

Brad
1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 13:11:09 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 11:42:01 -0700
From: Randall Zempel <rzempel@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

  Bill wrote: I was thinking of rigging up an electrolytic rust removal
system using a battery charger, blocking off the bottom of the
cylinder/piston
area to contain the water just in the block and totally de-rust the water
jacket area of the block.


Bill,
I've electrolytically de-rusted milling machine parts, and I don't expect
your method to work very well.  The electro field needs to be pretty direct
between anode and cathode, without any shielding in between.  I suspect the
various contours of the engine block will cause exactly that shielding,
leading to lots of areas with no appreciable de-scaling.

I recommend, instead, find a steel tub big enough to submerge the block.
Use a big propane burner ring to heat an alkali solution to near boiling,
and let that do your work.  Of course, it's probably easier and less
expensive to haul it to a professional shop to boil the block.... :-)

Randall Z

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 13:37:59 2013
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Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 19:22:28 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> 1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track

I would definitely not take that option!  My radiator shop said my TR3 radiator "flowed fine" and yet I had persistent overheating problems during just normal highway driving that proved to be caused by crud buildup inside the tubes.  None of the tubes were blocked, but the crud was acting like an insulator and reducing the essential heat flow.

This is not my first experience with cooling issues caused by invisible radiator problems.  The previous TR3A had very similar symptoms (temp would creep up at freeway speeds even with just 70F air), and recoring the radiator immediately solved them entirely.

> I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
> I lose something like 5% of my cooling, 

More like 10-15% according to my radiator guy.  All of the tubes that would normally go through the space occupied by the crank hole are totally blocked off, so they do nearly nothing as far as cooling.  You lose not just the open space of the hole, but a section that wide of the entire height of the radiator.

Another option is to have your original radiator re-cored.  I'm told that Modine no longer makes the core I got in the 3A, but there is another company that will make radiator cores to order (and they have the specification to fit the TR3).  You can even keep the crank hole if you choose (although I didn't).  Your local radiator shop should be able to handle ordering the core and installing it for you.

I am very happy with my recored radiator and electric fan.  The engine stays cool under all conditions, even during autocrossing or sustained full throttle operation; and the fan only runs for a few seconds at idle or stop-n-go before the water coming back from the radiator drops below 190F (the setpoint I chose).  I also had the shop change the filler neck to take a modern cap, so I could add a recovery bottle.

In retrospect, I kind of wish that I had tried putting back the stock mechanical fan with the recored radiator, as I suspect that might have worked as well.  But for now at least, I have no intentions of going back.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 24 17:58:00 2013
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References: <CADm3DLEXtuEx1VOWoPZiB9E5FsTUCNH3YWMwreUTAC=eqexOXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 19:30:21 -0400
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas 6-cyl PI for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm happy to report the PI is sold.  It went to the first responder who has
already paid a deposit.

Thanks all for your interest.

Brad



On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 1:02 PM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com> wrote:

> I thought about just putting this on ebay but wanted to give the list
> members first chance.
>
> Upwards of 10 years ago I bought a rebuilt PI system from a friend with
> the intention of installing it on a TR250 project.  Well several years ago
> the TR250 project was sold to someone who will actually do something with
> the car.
>
> So with the car gone it's time to sell the PI unit.
>
> If interested let me know and we can discuss it.
>
> Brad
> 1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 08:41:29 2013
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	4.2.4-GA) with ESMTP id CBV63284 (AUTH tedtsimx@bright.net) for
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 10:21:17 -0400
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.0.1
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com>
	refid=str=0001.0A020207.526A7E4B.0115, ss=1, re=0.000, recu=0.000,
	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0, 
	ip=0.0.0.0, so=2011-09-13 19:33:14, dmn=2013-04-19 10:07:54,
	mode=single engine
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List. With all the talk about aluminum radiators, one issue was 
missed.  With the exception of TR7 & TR8, all the cars from Spit through 
TR6 have a radiator that is a "solid" mount. Aluminum, by nature, can 
not stand any twisting, flexing or "racking".  All these cars are 
body/frame construction.  Frames twist and flex and since radiator is 
hard mounted, so does the radiator.  Another, and we feel better, choice 
is a modern re-core. Our radiator shop use a MaxCool core. Large 
diameter, oval shaped fins with lots of surface for heat dissipation. Ted


On 10/23/2013 8:58 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> My TR3A is finally coming back together.  I have it at Greg Solow's
> Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).
>
> They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
> are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator.  Somewhere
> in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
> hole (my current one doesn't).  I checked on ebay and the
> prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
> Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.
>
> So my options:
>
> 1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
> 2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
>     which is amusing and can come in handy.
> 3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
> 4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg
>
> I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
> I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
> is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
> the same.
>
>
> Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
> radiators on ebay?  Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?
>
> And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 11:48:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: ptegler@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:53:07 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7RqjEQW7M9xFNlSvWM6rB7Dv6t/Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:

I purchased the correct original heat valve pipe outlet that comes out of
the head as what was there from the previous owner was not original. This
heater valve screws into this fitting.  Problem is that you can't screw it
into the head as it hits against the rear head mounting stud and nut.  I
can't believe that you have to install this on the head before mounting to
the engine, but any thoughts out there.  The only idea I came up with is to
use a short extension pipe and then screw the orig fitting into that, but I
really want it to be correct.  Moss part number 635-260 under heating
section.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala , FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 14:41:13 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 13:13:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

moss says its same part as the TR3.
if that's so the side piece at 90 degrees
screws out
Frank



On Friday, October 25, 2013 11:24 AM, James Henningsen
<trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
  
List:

I purchased the correct original heat
valve pipe outlet that comes out of
the head as what was there from the
previous owner was not original. This
heater valve screws into this fitting. 
Problem is that you can't screw it
into the head as it hits against the rear
head mounting stud and nut.  I
can't believe that you have to install this on
the head before mounting to
the engine, but any thoughts out there.  The only
idea I came up with is to
use a short extension pipe and then screw the orig
fitting into that, but I
really want it to be correct.  Moss part number
635-260 under heating
section.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala , FL
62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Donate:
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 14:42:19 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:14:34 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac7RtfoIwq6Xl7RyQUeBL2SStmjDfg==
Subject: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does anyone
know if this an actual badge for the TR3?

 

I am not mounting it - just curious.

 

 

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 16:56:37 2013
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To: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00a001ced1b6$70d78a70$52869f50$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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CFM-TR wrote:
> When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
> I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
> letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does anyone
> know if this an actual badge for the TR3?
>
>

Can you email a picture of it to me?

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:54:07 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>,  James
	Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote: 
> moss says its same part as the TR3.

Must be some mistake.  The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head.  Totally different setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube.

I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover, there will be enough room to install the elbow.  If that doesn't work, then your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and regular (female-to-female) elbow.  Removing just the one nut should be safe; as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the engine.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 17:39:36 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Fri, 25 Oct 2013 18:15:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00a001ced1b6$70d78a70$52869f50$@verizon.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:15:18 -0400
Content-language: en-us
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Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

several people asked for an image.  I uploaded it to photobucket:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1160.jpg   It is about
1 1/2 x 3 1/2"
C


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 3:15 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know

When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does anyone
know if this an actual badge for the TR3?

 

I am not mounting it - just curious.

 

 

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 17:41:33 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00a001ced1b6$70d78a70$52869f50$@verizon.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:21:40 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQD7k0TUDXVai/8cn3/DkEY/alpXD5usiE/wgAACx7A=
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought you would be able to scroll to the 2nd picture.
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1162.jpg 


-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net] 
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 7:15 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: RE: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know

several people asked for an image.  I uploaded it to photobucket:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1160.jpg   It is about
1 1/2 x 3 1/2"
C


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 3:15 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know

When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does anyone
know if this an actual badge for the TR3?

 

I am not mounting it - just curious.

 

 

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 17:56:06 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 18:31:08 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've seen period "TR3" badges that are vaguely similar to the factory
TR4 badges but are narrower and use a different font style.

I've been told by some of our more senior TR folk that those might
have been distributor-applied prior to the introduction of the TRIUMPH
emblem on the rear panel.  They don't quite look factory quality if
it's the one I have in mind -- more like the dealer name badges in
zinc die cast that used to be relatively common on new cars.

Photos would be useful.



On 10/25/13, CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
> When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
> I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
> letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does
> anyone
> know if this an actual badge for the TR3?
>
>
>
> I am not mounting it - just curious.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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	<00c001ced1d8$1245d2b0$36d17810$@verizon.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:19:55 -0500
To: "cfmtr3a@verizon.net" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: 'Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never seen it before, I'll take a wild shot and say someone custom made that.
Reasoning that the "3" doesn't look European.

It would look nice on the rear deck  or the cubby box lid.

Bill


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2013, at 6:15 PM, "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> several people asked for an image.  I uploaded it to photobucket:
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1160.jpg   It is
about
> 1 1/2 x 3 1/2"
> C
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
> Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 3:15 PM
> To: ''Triumphs''
> Subject: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
>
> When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
> I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
> letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does
anyone
> know if this an actual badge for the TR3?
>
>
>
> I am not mounting it - just curious.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 25 19:01:30 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:28:52 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's not the one I've seen before, Carl.

On 10/25/13, CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
> I thought you would be able to scroll to the 2nd picture.
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1162.jpg
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
> Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 7:15 PM
> To: ''Triumphs''
> Subject: RE: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
>
> several people asked for an image.  I uploaded it to photobucket:
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1160.jpg   It is
> about
> 1 1/2 x 3 1/2"
> C
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
> Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 3:15 PM
> To: ''Triumphs''
> Subject: [TR] inquiring mind wants to know
>
> When I was going through the boxes to see what I missed during the project,
> I came across a badge that looks similar to the TR4 and then TR4A - chrome
> letters/number that go on the rear somewhere - but it is "TR3".  Does
> anyone
> know if this an actual badge for the TR3?
>
>
>
> I am not mounting it - just curious.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1382732021.71010.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<20131025225408.Q3TT5.139935.root@cdptpa-web34-z02>
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 21:15:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks.  It is different than the TR3 and uses a 45 degree elbow one piece
fitting.  I'll look tomorrow and see if there is clearance without the nut. I
think the stud is also in contact.  If not, then it is time for a little pipe
fitting as mentioned as removing the head seems a bit much for the sake of
pure originality.  Thanks, jim henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 6:54 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; James Henningsen
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe


---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> moss says its same part as the TR3.

Must be some mistake.  The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits
on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head.  Totally different
setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube.

I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover,
there will be enough room to install the elbow.  If that doesn't work, then
your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and
regular (female-to-female) elbow.  Removing just the one nut should be safe;
as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the
engine.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2013 19:13:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] amps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My amp guage is confusing me greatly.  (tr-3)  It's a recent restoration and
the needle did not move at all until I found that the needle was binding which
I fixed by taking apart the guage and bending the needle.   

Now  when I
flick on the headlights to test, the needle moves a fraction of a degree but
in the plus direction.  When I turn on the heater it doesn't move at all (the
heater motor is powered straight (with its own fuse) from the power side of
the starter solenoid.  More strangley; when I flick the turn signal to the
LEFT the amp needle waves madly from -30 to +30 in time with the "click" of
the turn signal.  Flicking the turn signal for a RIGHT turn and the needle
sometimes moves only a tiny bit in the right + direction.  But it moves MORE
to the right when I flick the turn signal immediately from left turn to right
turn.

When a load is put on the battery such as turning on the lights, heater
ect. shouldn't the amp needle move to the minus side rather than plus?  Just
wondering whether it's the guage or control box.  

Hope this is
understandable.

gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 03:44:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] amps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks like you have two seprate problems.
(1) The wires on the back of the
ammeter are reversed, making the current flow
   backwards through the meter,
thus, it shows positive when it is really negative.
(2) Your left turn signal
is drawing may too much current, look for a short to ground
  in that circuit.
 
 
 
John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (being
repaired after 37 yrs ownership)

From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, October
25, 2013 10:13 PM
Subject: [TR] amps


My amp guage is confusing me greatly. 
(tr-3)  It's a recent restoration and
the needle did not move at all until I
found that the needle was binding which
I fixed by taking apart the guage and
bending the needle.  

Now  when I
flick on the headlights to test, the needle
moves a fraction of a degree but
in the plus direction.  When I turn on the
heater it doesn't move at all (the
heater motor is powered straight (with its
own fuse) from the power side of
the starter solenoid.  More strangley; when I
flick the turn signal to the
LEFT the amp needle waves madly from -30 to +30
in time with the "click" of
the turn signal.  Flicking the turn signal for a
RIGHT turn and the needle
sometimes moves only a tiny bit in the right +
direction.  But it moves MORE
to the right when I flick the turn signal
immediately from left turn to right
turn.

When a load is put on the battery
such as turning on the lights, heater
ect. shouldn't the amp needle move to
the minus side rather than plus?  Just
wondering whether it's the guage or
control box.  

Hope this is
understandable.

gary n.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 08:27:19 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 09:58:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A-Advanced AutoWire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
So I have my TR4A just about done now and I am thinking about a improvement
maybe somebody out there might be able to help implementing.
I have installed a Advanced AutoWire harness and I am completely happy with
it. But first I wanted to mention that I still need to get that vertical
center console piece re-upholstered which gets me to my idea..
Before I drop off the console at the upholstery guy, I am thinking about
adding a lighted hazard switch down in-between the heater controls. The
harness has a provision to add a hazard switch using a kind of clunky double
pole-double throw switch which I have done but it is located down under the
dash in a fairly inconvenient location. So, I want to replace the DPDT toggle
switch with two standard automotive relays that have a SPDT configuration. To
control the two relays I would like to add a lighted push-on, push-off type
hazard switch and that is what I need help on. Is anybody aware of a suitable
switch?
I am also thinking about moving the auxilary electric fan switch down there
too but I would need a  lighted push button of some kind for that too. It
would really be nice if the two switches would have a similar shape so it
looks like it came that way.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
Almost done!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 09:55:02 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 08:20:25 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7R8aLcPUoreF4uR1W86Ptatu+GegAa9R8A
Subject: Re: [TR] amps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Now  when I
> flick on the headlights to test, the needle moves a fraction 
> of a degree but
> in the plus direction.

Engine running?  Slow idle, fast idle?

>  When I turn on the heater it doesn't 
> move at all (the
> heater motor is powered straight (with its own fuse) from the 
> power side of
> the starter solenoid. 

So, the heater is wired wrong and the ammeter is not going to indicate the current drawn by the heater, except maybe as charge.

> More strangley; when I flick the turn 
> signal to the
> LEFT the amp needle waves madly from -30 to +30 in time with 
> the "click" of
> the turn signal. 

You've got both a short in the left turn signals; and probably the wrong fuse or incorrect wiring such that the fuse is not
supplying the turn signals.

> Flicking the turn signal for a RIGHT turn 
> and the needle
> sometimes moves only a tiny bit in the right + direction.  

Again, what conditions?  I think your ammeter is also still sticking, in addition to being wired backwards.

> When a load is put on the battery such as turning on the 
> lights, heater
> ect. shouldn't the amp needle move to the minus side rather 
> than plus?  Just
> wondering whether it's the guage or control box.  

With the engine not running (or at a slow idle), then yes, anything you turn on should show up as discharge (needle to the - side).
But, with the engine running just a bit faster, the generator should supply the current (or at least part of it) and you won't see a
discharge.  

For the heater (and anything else) that is connected on the battery side of the ammeter, you might even be able to see a tiny bit of
charge shown, as the generator supplies the current drawn by the heater motor through the ammeter.  But I doubt you'll see that just
for the stock heater motor, which doesn't draw very much.

My suggestion would be to do the initial troubleshooting with the engine off, so that you know more clearly what you should be
seeing.  That won't test the control box of course, but you can work out all the other issues like ammeter wiring, shorts and so on.
Then compare that to what happens with the engine running.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <1382753587.31993.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1382784265.38471.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 08:22:41 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] amps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 3:44 AM, John Young <jeyoung_2@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Looks like you have two seprate problems.
> (1) The wires on the back of the
> ammeter are reversed, making the current flow
>    backwards through the meter,
> thus, it shows positive when it is really negative



And that can easily occur if *someone* changed the system from positive
ground to negative ground without swapping the connections on the ammeter.

As for "When a load is put on the battery such as turning on the lights,
heater ect. shouldn't the amp needle move...".   The gauge will only 'see'
loads that are in it's circuit -- IOW if something (such as your heater)
is wired directly from the battery or solenoid, then the amp gauge doesn't
know it's there.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 08:49:41 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Qz60GULHDuCfrSom1tHuaw5FOIwBkm0Ig
Subject: Re: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Last time 
> I rebuilt the
> engine (about 11 years and 80,000  miles ago) it was pretty 
> rusty inside the
> water jacket area of the block and I de-rusted it pretty well 
> and have used
> No-Rosion since. 

If it is full of rust again, then the No-Rosion isn't working.  You need to find something that actually works and stick with that.
Even with No-Rosion, you are still supposed to change the coolant every 5 years; and the new Prestone "any color" antifreeze claims
that it's anti-corrosion additives will last for 5 years anyway.  So far anyway, it seems to work for me.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 09:18:00 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Qrf82CMCiYPChRjOygd/iZ5P5YgBtRhQw
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Or maybe my question should be........ does the TR3 have 
> inherent cooling 
> problems that could be helped by an aluminum radiator that 
> handles hear 
> "better"?

That has been a much debated topic over the years.  The conventional wisdom is that "All British cars overheat", and there may be
some small truth to that.  Lots of folks do have cooling problems, but I think it is less due to any inherent shortcoming and more
due to things like the cars being old, rarely driven, poorly understood and indifferently maintained.

I'm not a big fan of P.J. O'Rourke, but I did enjoy his book "Drive like Crazy", mostly because the story centers around a
cross-country trip in a 56 Buick.  With that litany of mechanical problems (including persistent overheating), he could just as
easily been driving a TR3!  But unlike the Buick, with a TR3 no one will ever tell you "That thing will run forever".  The
difference is in the perception, not the facts.

"Back when", I drove an entire Indiana summer in a decrepit TR3A that had no cooling fan at all!  Original radiator (from another
TR3A), no cardboard air duct (didn't know it was supposed to have one), and probably the original grille.  It actually had no
cooling problems at all while driving at speed, and I limped around town by simply shutting the engine off every chance I got.  It
seemed clear to me that the only issue was lack of airflow through the radiator (under certain conditions), not anything to do with
radiator size, thermostat type and so on.

Of course, since then, I've been using radiators without a crank hole, so they do work better than the original.  But I'd have to
say that my current TR3 continues the trend, where it shows no signs of any lack of cooling under any circumstances.  With a 185
modern thermostat (no sleeve), the needle never goes above the '5' in 185 (which is where the electric fan kicks in).  Even then,
the fan runs for only 30-40 seconds before turning off again.  The gauge hardly moves, but obviously the water coming back from the
radiator has gone below the 190F setpoint for the fan thermostat.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 10:00:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Yeah, haven't got the engine out or head off yet. It might be fine. I was
wondering if there was a permanent solution so that in 30 years when I pull
the head off again it will still be pretty rust free inside.

     Bill in
Tehachapi


________________________________
 From: Randall
<TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 8:49 AM
Subject:
RE: [TR] De-Rusting TR3 Block
 



> Last time 
> I rebuilt the
> engine
(about 11 years and 80,000  miles ago) it was pretty 
> rusty inside the
>
water jacket area of the block and I de-rusted it pretty well 
> and have used
> No-Rosion since. 

If it is full of rust again, then the No-Rosion isn't
working.  You need to find something that actually works and stick with that.
Even with No-Rosion, you are still supposed to change the coolant every 5
years; and the new Prestone "any color" antifreeze claims
that it's
anti-corrosion additives will last for 5 years anyway.  So far anyway, it
seems to work for me.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 12:11:59 2013
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Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 13:49:00 -0400
From: Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Inquiring minds want to know.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List:
On the TR3 badge question, on my '2 I have a similar badge, approx. the 
same size and font that reads: "Triumph TR2". It is on the rear deck 
centered between the spare tire cover and trunk lid. I always assumed it 
was a dealer installed "extra". I am the second owner of my car and have 
a good history of the car.
Cheers
Angelo Graham

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 14:41:10 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 15:04:50 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Coolant at top of Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

Well... the day has come and I believe I may have my first engine defect.

Yesterday I removed the valve cover to discover "goo" surrounding the plug in
the top of the head, inside the valve train area.
I wiped it clean and waited.

Today I looked, and sure enough, greenish coolant is leaking from around the
plug. (I'm curious as to what is providing the pressure to force it up through
the seam.)
Dong some quick research I see the most plausible culprit is the head gasket
leaking between cylinders 2 &3.

Does anyone have any thoughts, experience or advice you could share?

I'd love to be wrong, but at this point I think I'm looking at pulling the
head and replacing the gasket.
If I do this, how can avoid this in the future?  Is there some technique I
should be using?


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 16:01:55 2013
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	Oct 2013 21:17:30 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 14:17:44 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Si6wavfo0RpARSsmy+zrPQBcdzAAAxdHg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Coolant at top of Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Today I looked, and sure enough, greenish coolant is leaking 
> from around the
> plug. (I'm curious as to what is providing the pressure to 
> force it up through
> the seam.)
> Dong some quick research I see the most plausible culprit is 
> the head gasket
> leaking between cylinders 2 &3.

Sorry, not plausible at all.

The bottom of that plug is open to the coolant passage through the head.  What you are seeing is the plug leaking coolant from the
passage, most likely because someone hasn't kept the antifreeze up to date and it is almost corroded through from the inside.  The
only safe cure will be to replace the plug.

I've not tried it myself, but supposedly you can tap the hole to take a socket head pipe plug.  I've got a head where someone else
has done that, and it appears to be about a 3/4" plug.  I'm guessing it can be done with the head in place, but be sure to flush the
engine thoroughly afterwards, to get out all of the chips & cutting oil.

> If I do this, how can avoid this in the future?  Is there 
> some technique I should be using?

The problem is that iron, aluminum and water form what is essentially a weak battery.  With the iron and aluminum in contact, a
small current flows, which slowly eats away the aluminum.  Ordinary antifreeze has additives that stop the process, but the
additives wear out over time even if you don't drive the car.  So it is essential to both use enough antifreeze and be sure to
replace it as recommended.

Probably you've been doing that, and the damage was done by some DPO even though it's only showing up now.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 26 16:50:49 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <AFB3C7B2-EED9-4FE4-80A6-1C9D55F915F7@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 17:47:14 -0400
Thread-Index: AQJdkdwJ6fIw5PoMwl23F4OjYpm+DZjqBdGQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Coolant at top of Cylinder Head
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd replace the plug itself before doing anything more invasive.  They do
tend to rot.  Plus - change your oil as you are likely to have coolant in
it.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 4:05 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Coolant at top of Cylinder Head

All,

Well... the day has come and I believe I may have my first engine defect.

Yesterday I removed the valve cover to discover "goo" surrounding the plug
in the top of the head, inside the valve train area.
I wiped it clean and waited.

Today I looked, and sure enough, greenish coolant is leaking from around the
plug. (I'm curious as to what is providing the pressure to force it up
through the seam.) Dong some quick research I see the most plausible culprit
is the head gasket leaking between cylinders 2 &3.

Does anyone have any thoughts, experience or advice you could share?

I'd love to be wrong, but at this point I think I'm looking at pulling the
head and replacing the gasket.
If I do this, how can avoid this in the future?  Is there some technique I
should be using?


Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 27 01:12:31 2013
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From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 20:07:48 +1300
Subject: [TR] Which E-Bay  to use
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi!,
I have a TR3B for sale,has been total rebuilt.Which e-bay should one use,ie
UK,USA.or AU.If i use USA e-bay what charges would one have to pay,is there a
set amount and how long does this last.Also if sold what is the selling fee a
% of the amount??.
Your help would be greatful.
Regards
Ashley

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 27 09:18:46 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <004501ceca90$c867cbb0$59376310$@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 10:57:12 -0400
Thread-index: AQG5YopOnJ4N6EVkYt4reqtS17w6Z5ozg4dg
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to Randall and Tom Fansher - Issue resolved.  The bucket clips were
damaged.  I was able to purchase replacements from Moss.  extremely easy fix
(even for me)

see image at
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1150copy2.jpg for
before/after.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 12:57 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

I understand how the outer trim ring attaches but my question is should the
clip at the bottom be closed or open.  In other words, is it open enough for
the tab to push through and latch or is it closed and the tab has to be
pushed below the clip and into the opening?  

Thanks

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 27 09:20:55 2013
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References: <6DBA039B1381481A8C8F10FCD84ED480@AshleysPC>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 07:52:42 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: ashleys <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Which E-Bay to use
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ashley --

Have a look at:  eBay Motors
Fees<http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/motorfees.html>

It appears that you are in New Zealand -- generally cars may sell better
where the steering wheel is on the correct side for local traffic but in a
nice TR3B a RHD might be an interesting, even desirable feature to a US
collector.

Perhaps you want to list in the US for a wider market -- in that case you
would do well to get some info on shipping to a West coast port (e.g. Long
Beach).  I bought a TR that was on a Pacific island and got a great deal
because the seller hadn't bothered to explain to bidders how easily and
cheaply shipping could be arranged.  As a result of his oversight no one
else bid on the car.

Lastly, since you are asking a pretty basic eBay question perhaps you
haven't sold much on that site.  If so, and particularly if your feedback
score is low -- you will need to put bidders at ease that you are for
real.  Also, if you lack eBay experience, you will want to be aware of the
scams commonly attempted on eBay car sellers.

I think I vaguely recall you and your car from one of the other TR lists.
Best of luck with the sale,

Geo



On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 12:07 AM, ashleys <ashleys@farmside.co.nz> wrote:

> Hi!,
> I have a TR3B for sale,has been total rebuilt.Which e-bay should one use,ie
> UK,USA.or AU.If i use USA e-bay what charges would one have to pay,is
> there a
> set amount and how long does this last.Also if sold what is the selling
> fee a
> % of the amount??.
> Your help would be greatful.
> Regards
> Ashley
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 27 10:16:08 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>,	"''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <004501ceca90$c867cbb0$59376310$@verizon.net>
	<004f01ced324$d1fc7670$75f56350$@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 11:43:37 -0400
Thread-index: AQG5YopOnJ4N6EVkYt4reqtS17w6ZwJM0raKmiEqmtA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

oops - I'll have to figure out why that happened.   the after shot is
'invisible'.... file looks ok on my computer but not on Photobucket.  
C

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2013 10:57 AM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

Thanks to Randall and Tom Fansher - Issue resolved.  The bucket clips were
damaged.  I was able to purchase replacements from Moss.  extremely easy fix
(even for me)

see image at
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1150copy2.jpg for
before/after.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 12:57 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

I understand how the outer trim ring attaches but my question is should the
clip at the bottom be closed or open.  In other words, is it open enough for
the tab to push through and latch or is it closed and the tab has to be
pushed below the clip and into the opening?  

Thanks

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 27 10:16:58 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 11:48:32 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac7TK/cOLoEvD4p3RIG6k7w1qs6P/Q==
Subject: [TR] FW:  TR3A Headlamp question - corrected image
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1150copy3.jpg 

-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2013 11:44 AM
To: 'cfmtr3a@verizon.net'; ''Triumphs''
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

oops - I'll have to figure out why that happened.   the after shot is
'invisible'.... file looks ok on my computer but not on Photobucket.  
C

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Sunday, October 27, 2013 10:57 AM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

Thanks to Randall and Tom Fansher - Issue resolved.  The bucket clips were
damaged.  I was able to purchase replacements from Moss.  extremely easy fix
(even for me)

see image at
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/100_1150copy2.jpg for
before/after.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2013 12:57 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: [TR] TR3A Headlamp question

I understand how the outer trim ring attaches but my question is should the
clip at the bottom be closed or open.  In other words, is it open enough for
the tab to push through and latch or is it closed and the tab has to be
pushed below the clip and into the opening?  

Thanks

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Triumph <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 12:20:24 -0400
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] New tires for my TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I found a local LBC shop nearby who can handle myTR3s wire wheels.

So I have ordered 4 new 165HR15 Vredestein Sprint Classic Radial Tires.   I
have also ordered  with 5 new inner-tubes, & wheel liners.

I plan to use my best old tire for the spare.

Any other advice??

Thanks

John

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 15:47:01 -0700
References: <20131024005836.GA9795@getdave.com> <526A7E5D.6090301@bright.net>
To: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thatbs weird,
	I have a Ron Davis aluminum radiator on Casper (1957 TR3 for about 10 years
now with no problems and no overheating b& hmmm  Guess I am just lucky.


On Oct 25, 2013, at 7:21 AM, Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net> wrote:

> Hi List. With all the talk about aluminum radiators, one issue was missed.
With the exception of TR7 & TR8, all the cars from Spit through TR6 have a
radiator that is a "solid" mount. Aluminum, by nature, can not stand any
twisting, flexing or "racking".  All these cars are body/frame construction.
Frames twist and flex and since radiator is hard mounted, so does the
radiator.  Another, and we feel better, choice is a modern re-core. Our
radiator shop use a MaxCool core. Large diameter, oval shaped fins with lots
of surface for heat dissipation. Ted
>
>
> On 10/23/2013 8:58 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
>> My TR3A is finally coming back together.  I have it at Greg Solow's
>> Engine Room in Santa Cruz (I believe he did TeriAnn's Triumph).
>>
>> They are saying that the radiator doesn't have lots of flow and
>> are recommending switching to an aluminum radiator.  Somewhere
>> in storage I have a stock radiator in good shape that has the crank
>> hole (my current one doesn't).  I checked on ebay and the
>> prices of aluminum radiators vary massively - from $250 to $700.
>> Greg can get one that is good quality for ~$700.
>>
>> So my options:
>>
>> 1) Use the current radiator, and don't go on the race track
>> 2) Use the storage radiator so I have the starter crank hole again,
>>    which is amusing and can come in handy.
>> 3) Buy the $250 aluminum on ebay
>> 4) Buy the $700 aluminum via Greg
>>
>> I know that if I use the radiator with the starter hole that
>> I lose something like 5% of my cooling, though the radiator
>> is probably cleaner than the original, so it's probably about
>> the same.
>>
>>
>> Does anyone kynow how to tell the difference between the
>> radiators on ebay?  Anyone buy one of these $250 aluminum radiators?
>>
>> And any thoughts on the difference between aluminum and stock?
>>
>
> --

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 16:43:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, ashleys
	<ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [TR] Which E-Bay  to use
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Use the site for the country you are in unless you want to target another
market.   Pricing varies wildly so just refer to the pricing info on the ebay
site.

Chad in Tulsa

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2013 18:01:26 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1382917409.63856.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web120701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Which E-Bay  to use
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 10/27/13, 4:43 PM, Chad wrote:
> Use the site for the country you are in unless you want to target another
> market.   Pricing varies wildly so just refer to the pricing info on the ebay
> site.
When you set up the ad it will ask which parts of the country should be 
able to see the ad.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 11:28:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 16:53:42 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1382979222;
	bh=XWoU+5f5HdbMXiTarWU0mOnntJQrtl0bei65mV2Gx4w=;
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Subject: [TR] Great ad for Spitfire in western Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4154990742.html

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 12:05:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 13:31:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Years ago, I had all four of my TR6's original steel wheels blasted, trued and
then powder-coated. Now our lousy roads in Quebec have bent a couple a bit out
of true and yet again my poor car has the dreaded Triumph Shakes. Sadly, the
Boston shop that did the original truing seems to have vanished other than
some youtube videos.

I really like the look of the originals and do not want to switch to alloy.
For some reason, the TR6 wheel is almost the only component not being produced
aftermarket. NOS wheels appear to be made from the purest form of unobtainium.
Is there any steel wheel out there that looks similar to the TR6 original and
can accept the trim rings?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 12:16:41 2013
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	<163250348.143370.1382979222317.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 13:37:12 -0400
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Great ad for Spitfire in western Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, a good ad.  Maybe not quite so original, but still entertaining...
http://enid.craigslist.org/cto/4119280944.html%3C/div%3E



On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 12:53 PM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:

> http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4154990742.html
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 13:41:27 2013
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	<7e64ee3d.1ced403.8a5e0e97.35@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 14:29:20 -0400
From: Larry Griffin <larrygriffin.nc@gmail.com>
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,

I believe Moss Motors now has them in stock for the 1970-76 years,
part # 454-715
at $239.95 each.

Thanks,
Larry
71 TR6




On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 1:31 PM, Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>wrote:

> Years ago, I had all four of my TR6's original steel wheels blasted, trued
> and
> then powder-coated. Now our lousy roads in Quebec have bent a couple a bit
> out
> of true and yet again my poor car has the dreaded Triumph Shakes. Sadly,
> the
> Boston shop that did the original truing seems to have vanished other than
> some youtube videos.
>
> I really like the look of the originals and do not want to switch to alloy.
> For some reason, the TR6 wheel is almost the only component not being
> produced
> aftermarket. NOS wheels appear to be made from the purest form of
> unobtainium.
> Is there any steel wheel out there that looks similar to the TR6 original
> and
> can accept the trim rings?
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <526DB766.7000708@gmail.com>
	<7e64ee3d.1ced403.8a5e0e97.35@indiefilmnet.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 18:37:45 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "mhooper@indiefilmnet.com" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>,
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, Mark
 
A quick check of Mr. Rimmer's website in the UK indicates the TR6
factory issue steel wheel is available. That's the good news. The not so good
news is they cost about US$200 each plus shipping. NFI

Jonmac

From: Mark
Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
>To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'"
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Monday, 28 October 2013, 17:31
>Subject:
[TR] TR6 Steel wheels
>
>
>Years ago, I had all four of my TR6's original
steel wheels blasted, trued and
>then powder-coated. Now our lousy roads in
Quebec have bent a couple a bit out
>of true and yet again my poor car has the
dreaded Triumph Shakes. Sadly, the
>Boston shop that did the original truing
seems to have vanished other than
>some youtube videos.
>
>I really like the
look of the originals and do not want to switch to alloy.
>For some reason,
the TR6 wheel is almost the only component not being produced
>aftermarket.
NOS wheels appear to be made from the purest form of unobtainium.
>Is there
any steel wheel out there that looks similar to the TR6 original and
>can
accept the trim rings?
>
>Mark Hooper
>1972 TR6 
>
>
>**
triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 14:40:27 2013
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Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 15:43:00 -0400
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: 'John Macartney' <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>, 
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John:

Thanks; I see that I hit the send too fast. It seems that there are some
listed with the major suppliers as I am informed by you and other vigilant
list members. I checked rimmerbros this morning and I thought it was showing
"no longer available" so I did not enquire further. Still, although expensive,
it is good news to me. Time to order a rim or two for the winter restoring
project. Now to figure out how to match the powder coating I had done by a
sadly departed list member.

Cheers,

Mark





From: John Macartney [mailto:flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk]
Sent: October-28-13 2:38 PM
To: mhooper@indiefilmnet.com; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels

Hi, Mark

A quick check of Mr. Rimmer's website in the UK indicates the TR6 factory
issue steel wheel is available. That's the good news. The not so good news is
they cost about US$200 each plus shipping. NFI

Jonmac



From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, 28 October 2013, 17:31
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels

Years ago, I had all four of my TR6's original steel wheels blasted, trued
and
then powder-coated. Now our lousy roads in Quebec have bent a couple a bit
out
of true and yet again my poor car has the dreaded Triumph Shakes. Sadly, the
Boston shop that did the original truing seems to have vanished other than
some youtube videos.

I really like the look of the originals and do not want to switch to alloy.
For some reason, the TR6 wheel is almost the only component not being
produced
aftermarket. NOS wheels appear to be made from the purest form of
unobtainium.
Is there any steel wheel out there that looks similar to the TR6 original and
can accept the trim rings?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 28 16:05:09 2013
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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: "mhooper@indiefilmnet.com" <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>,
	"'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
Thread-Index: AQHO1AjO4hkJdpg8VE2sxr0SHZGr0JoKlfkw
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2013 20:50:51 +0000
References: <526DB766.7000708@gmail.com>
	<7e64ee3d.1ced403.8a5e0e97.35@indiefilmnet.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels
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Mark,

I have a good set of steel wheels that I took off my 72 when I got the
aluminum wheels that I would be willing to sell but not sure how much of a
problem it would be to get them to Canada.  I am in north Carolina.

Ronald Olds
Cell      (630) 240-0818
 
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
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the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use
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received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies
of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 1:31 PM
To: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steel wheels

Years ago, I had all four of my TR6's original steel wheels blasted, trued and
then powder-coated. Now our lousy roads in Quebec have bent a couple a bit out
of true and yet again my poor car has the dreaded Triumph Shakes. Sadly, the
Boston shop that did the original truing seems to have vanished other than
some youtube videos.

I really like the look of the originals and do not want to switch to alloy.
For some reason, the TR6 wheel is almost the only component not being produced
aftermarket. NOS wheels appear to be made from the purest form of
unobtainium.
Is there any steel wheel out there that looks similar to the TR6 original and
can accept the trim rings?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rolds@plausa.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 10:05:46 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph Spares Day, UK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

For those few listers who sally forth across the Atlantic each year for
Triumph Spares Day at Stoneleigh Park. The next event is Sunday 2nd March 2014
and I've just read that from next year, the day is to be dualled for MG and
Triumph instead of holding it on consecutive weekends.

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 29 14:48:08 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 15:40:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] performance tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

checked tire rack and discount tire; neither seems to have the really sticky
14b tires Ibm looking for.  the guy at tire rack says they are not made
anymore?

anyone have a recommendation?

Ibm replacing 185/70 R14

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 29 17:00:48 2013
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Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 18:58:24 -0400
From: Pat Ledford <pat.l@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] performance tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Try online tires then have 205 60 14's
http://www.onlinetires.com/user/vehicle/tires/allbrands.html




On 10/29/2013 4:40 PM, Dave wrote:
> checked tire rack and discount tire; neither seems to have the really sticky
> 14b tires Ibm looking for.  the guy at tire rack says they are not made
> anymore?
>
> anyone have a recommendation?
>
> Ibm replacing 185/70 R14
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l@comcast.net
>

-- 
Pat Ledford
1980 TR7 30th Anniversary Editon
1975 TR6 Restoration in Process

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 21:53:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody have any suggestions/experience installing 3-point seat belts in a
TR4A? I am at that point and there seems to be several choices. I am wondering
where I would mount the upper portion?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
Almost done,, well almost driveable they are never done.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 29 20:56:53 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <18894FB2F2D04D5A8DB208EAF3E7E54B@DaveLaptop>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2013 21:50:42 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The TR250 and 6 mounted the lap belt on the top of the wheel well behind the 
seats, I don't know what kind of bracing or reinforcement they may have used 
underneath.  The location is not ideal in my opinion, as it has to come up 
and around the seat, and, at least on me, tends to slide off my shoulder 
since not coming from point higher than my shoulder, it is actually kind of 
a pain, especially with the top down, as it sort or has to squeeze between 
the seat and the convertible top or boot cover.  If you know someone who has 
a TR6 I would ask to take a look at the setup in one of those as the inner 
tub is laid out the same.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 06:00:07 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 07:56:21 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As was suggested, follow the example of the TR6.  Specifically, a late 
model TR6 which was fitted with seat belt retractors and a guide loop mounted 
high on the rear wheel well with the retractor that mounds directly below 
that.  I retrofitted a set of late belts in my early TR6 by mounting the 
retractor using a stack of increasing diameter washers ending with a fender washer 
that is some three inches in diameter.  I figure the amount of tension 
needed to pull that through the sheetmetal would probably take my shoulder off 
first.  On a TR4 I would mount the guide loop in a similar fashion.

Moss has a set of aftermarket belts with retractors that work well.  My 
only complaint is that they are "rate sensitive" and will lock up if you pull 
them out too fast with buckling up.  And they don't fit the plastic 
receivers.  :-(

Dave

In a message dated 10/29/2013 8:46:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dconnitt@fuse.net writes: 
> Anybody have any suggestions/experience installing 3-point seat belts in 
> a
> TR4A? I am at that point and there seems to be several choices. I am 
> wondering
> where I would mount the upper portion?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 06:53:26 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 07:32:52 -0500
References: <18894FB2F2D04D5A8DB208EAF3E7E54B@DaveLaptop>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I put mounted mine just above the rear wheel wells, not on the wells
themselves.
My only complaint is having to ensure the chest strap is clear of the hood
frame's bars.

Kind of wishing I would have stayed with the two point belts, but that chest
strap offers some additional peace of mind.  Only need it once!!

On Oct 29, 2013, at 8:53 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> Anybody have any suggestions/experience installing 3-point seat belts in a
> TR4A? I am at that point and there seems to be several choices. I am
wondering
> where I would mount the upper portion?
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> Almost done,, well almost driveable they are never done.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 09:09:42 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F3BB5D764E5F432A96B36973697D2802@Datsun>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 10:06:15 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7U6BA5W+Swh85WSdmU72yIgYsgKAAmKKPQ
Subject: Re: [TR] performance tires
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Try SascoSports, www.sascosports.com, they took real good care of us at the
track last week.  Not cheap by any means but I feel certain they could meet
your 'sticky' requirements.

NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 3:41 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] performance tires

checked tire rack and discount tire; neither seems to have the really sticky
14b tires Ibm looking for.  the guy at tire rack says they are not made
anymore?

anyone have a recommendation?

Ibm replacing 185/70 R14

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 11:57:57 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7VkS30jhWQ82iHQzyPJ6hMHESkQA==
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch  not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dear Valued List,
 
Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or unusual
sounds.  Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.  
 
Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating the
release arm but no disengagement.  New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just 6 months
ago, all have performed as expected until today.
 
Any suggestions are always appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:11:52 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:09:53 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I saw a TR4 or TR6 that had installed the retractors down in front of the wheel wells, clear down on the vertical panel right behind the seats.  The owner was pretty happy with the way it works.  It has the advantage of not taking up space on the shelf behind the seat.  Not sure if it interferes with seat travel.

The loop was at the top of the wheel well.

Roger

-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave1massey@cs.com
>Sent: Oct 30, 2013 6:56 AM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
>
>As was suggested, follow the example of the TR6.  Specifically, a late 
>model TR6 which was fitted with seat belt retractors and a guide loop mounted 
>high on the rear wheel well with the retractor that mounds directly below 
>that.  I retrofitted a set of late belts in my early TR6 by mounting the 
>retractor using a stack of increasing diameter washers ending with a fender washer 
>that is some three inches in diameter.  I figure the amount of tension 
>needed to pull that through the sheetmetal would probably take my shoulder off 
>first.  On a TR4 I would mount the guide loop in a similar fashion.
>
>Moss has a set of aftermarket belts with retractors that work well.  My 
>only complaint is that they are "rate sensitive" and will lock up if you pull 
>them out too fast with buckling up.  And they don't fit the plastic 
>receivers.  :-(
>
>Dave
>
>In a message dated 10/29/2013 8:46:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
>dconnitt@fuse.net writes: 
>> Anybody have any suggestions/experience installing 3-point seat belts in 
>> a
>> TR4A? I am at that point and there seems to be several choices. I am 
>> wondering
>> where I would mount the upper portion?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:16:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:14:42 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/24.0
To: wbeech@flash.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <F9B723FBAC4942C094CFED3D31F2E166@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch  not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

The clutch disc may be stuck to the flywheel. I have this problem on my 
TR6 after a long winter nap.
In order to free the disc from its stuck condition, I put the 
transmission in 4th gear and with my left leg, rock the car back and 
forth while depressing the clutch with my right. Works every time.

Wouldnt hurt to give it a try.

The only thing else I can think of is that the fork pin is broken. That 
will require transmission removal.

Bob


On 10/30/2013 12:57 PM, wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> Dear Valued List,
>   
> Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or unusual
> sounds.  Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.
>   
> Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating the
> release arm but no disengagement.  New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just 6 months
> ago, all have performed as expected until today.
>   
> Any suggestions are always appreciated.
>   
> Thanks,
> Bill
>   
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 11:36:08 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F9B723FBAC4942C094CFED3D31F2E166@bboffice>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:33:34 -0400
Thread-Index: AQFl2m4sIdO4xAHlqcyh34804tOqZZrfdkCA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch  not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Any chance that there was fluid loss in the hydraulic system which would
prevent the slave cylinder from travelling its full stroke? I can't believe
that the clutch disk would rust/set against the flywheel so quickly.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 12:58 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing

Dear Valued List,
 
Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or unusual
sounds.  Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.  
 
Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating the
release arm but no disengagement.  New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just 6 months
ago, all have performed as expected until today.
 
Any suggestions are always appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 12:16:38 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Alex&Janet Thomson'" <aljlthomson@charter.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F9B723FBAC4942C094CFED3D31F2E166@bboffice>
	<002a01ced596$2912c630$7b385290$@charter.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:15:02 -0500
Thread-Index: AQFl2m4sIdO4xAHlqcyh34804tOqZZrfdkCAgAALaiA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch  not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, I have had the car sit for 2-3 weeks at a time on several
occasions(don't hate me).  

Fluid tank if full and there is no evidence of leaking under the slave.  I
took a video of the action as I pumped, the arm appears to be travelling the
full distance, I could send it to you off-line.

IF the pin is sheared, would I still be feeling almost normal resistance at
the pedal?

Bill

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 12:34 PM
To: wbeech@flash.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing

Any chance that there was fluid loss in the hydraulic system which would
prevent the slave cylinder from travelling its full stroke? I can't believe
that the clutch disk would rust/set against the flywheel so quickly.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech@flash.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 12:58 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing

Dear Valued List,
 
Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or unusual
sounds.  Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.  
 
Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating the
release arm but no disengagement.  New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just 6 months
ago, all have performed as expected until today.
 
Any suggestions are always appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 12:47:02 2013
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References: <F9B723FBAC4942C094CFED3D31F2E166@bboffice>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 11:44:49 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 9:57 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> ...slave cylinder is operating the release arm but no disengagement.



Based on that I would begin with one of the usual methods of unsticking a
clutch.  the suggested method is pretty easy & gentle though when I have
had this happen more 'shock & awe' was needed.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <F9B723FBAC4942C094CFED3D31F2E166@bboffice>
	<CANzE1bHwnLUFRmtnE2tCs=JyzFwSH9pRSWPUd+itQF9MV7r2tg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 13:47:59 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7VoB2xsQE7BTgDR4K0NvEnhufhIQAAFlMg
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Never had a clutch 'stick' before, other than rocking the car what is there?
Bill

  _____  

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:45 PM
To: Wbeech@flash.net
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 9:57 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:


...slave cylinder is operating the release arm but no disengagement. 

 
 
Based on that I would begin with one of the usual methods of unsticking a
clutch.  the suggested method is pretty easy & gentle though when I have had
this happen more 'shock & awe' was needed.
 
Geo 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 12:50:27 2013
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 11:48:44 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is clearly an area with different points of view.  I have heard
arguments against installing a shoulder belt with the attachment point well
below your shoulder.  I believe the concern is spinal compression though
one could also ponder the wisdom of being strapped in an upright position
in one of these cars (w/o a roll bar).

Geo


On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> The TR250 and 6 mounted the lap belt on the top of the wheel well behind
> the seats, I don't know what kind of bracing or reinforcement they may have
> used underneath.  The location is not ideal in my opinion, as it has to
> come up and around the seat, and, at least on me, tends to slide off my
> shoulder since not coming from point higher than my shoulder, it is
> actually kind of a pain, especially with the top down, as it sort or has to
> squeeze between the seat and the convertible top or boot cover.  If you
> know someone who has a TR6 I would ask to take a look at the setup in one
> of those as the inner tub is laid out the same.
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 11:52:26 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had one that was *really* stuck -- had to jack up the rear end, start the
car with the gearbox in first & rev the engine as my wife released the
jack.  That got it.

I think many have had success with a somewhat gentler method -- possibly
start the car in gear & as you're rolling depress the clutch and romp on
the brakes.

Perhaps gentler still -- handbrake & foot brake on, clutch depressed, bump
the motor.

You get the idea.

Geo


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> **
> Never had a clutch 'stick' before, other than rocking the car what is
> there?
> Bill
>
>  ------------------------------
> *From:* Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:45 PM
> *To:* Wbeech@flash.net
> *Cc:* Triumphs
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
>
>   On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 9:57 AM, <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
>
>> ...slave cylinder is operating the release arm but no disengagement.
>
>
>
> Based on that I would begin with one of the usual methods of unsticking a
> clutch.  the suggested method is pretty easy & gentle though when I have
> had this happen more 'shock & awe' was needed.
>
> Geo

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 12:26:53 -0700
Thread-Index: AQFl2m4sIdO4xAHlqcyh34804tOqZZrfdkCAgAALaiCAAAzicA==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch  not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, I've had a freshly-installed clutch stick after just a few weeks of sitting.  Probably had something to do with the heat I
used to get the (alloy) flywheel off of the previous engine.  I used a method somewhere between Bill's gentle rocking and Geo's
"shock and awe" : Just held the clutch down and started driving the car that way.  I wasn't even to the end of the driveway before
it came loose and I've never had a problem with it since.

For sure, check the fluid first if you haven't already.  Also try pumping it up.  If 3 or 4 pumps will get it to release, either the
hydraulics need to be bled or you've got a broken taper pin.

Also check the adjustment at the slave.  Might even be worth trying to remove all of the freeplay, just to see what happens.  If the
adjustment doesn't have enough range to remove all the freeplay, that's another indication of a broken pin (or something else wrong
inside the bellhousing).

Then I'd try the above "stuck" solution.  Even though it doesn't sound likely to be the right solution (a stuck clutch feels just
like one that is working, since you are lifting the pressure plate away from the friction plate), it might work and is a whole lot
easier than pulling the gearbox out.  Which would be the next step.

Randall

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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 15:42:06 -0400
References: <mailman.16.1383156005.26509.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
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Try pumping the clutch two or three times in quick succession. If it  
then works or almost does, I'd suspect a broken fork pin. I stuck disc  
would not change the pedal feel. (I drove home once with that  
"technique".)

Allen
On Oct 30, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or  
> unusual
> sounds.  Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.
>
> Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating  
> the
> release arm but no disengagement.  New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just  
> 6 months
> ago, all have performed as expected until today.

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From: Triumph <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 17:26:05 -0400
References: <18894FB2F2D04D5A8DB208EAF3E7E54B@DaveLaptop>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tires & tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have received my new Verdestein 165 HR 15 tires this morning, and UPS says
that my new tubes and wheel liners will be here this evening.  I have
identified a shop in town that local LBC types vouch for.

My last question to the web wisdom is that there is anything that I should ask
about or ask for when I drop everything off at the shop?

John

John A. Wise
john.A.wWise@mac.com

1960 Triumph TR3-A
Born" 15 Sep 1960

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <suhringtr36@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 14:53:51 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Vt7ARh7lLSN38SkqAf97neKCQgQAALHMQ
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] amps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> On another subject line regarding amps in a '59 TR3A.  When I 
> first start up my TR3A and rev the engine, my amp needle will 
> move to the far right in sync with my revving the engine.  
> Once the engine warms up, this does not occur.  Any ideas 
> what would be causing this?  

When the starter cranks the engine, it draws a lot of power from the battery.  Literally hundreds of amps times however long it
takes to start the engine.  Takes a lot more to start a cold engine than a warm one; plus the battery tends to self-discharge over
time.  The control box is deliberately somewhat sensitive to temperature, and when cold will allow the generator output to
temporarily exceed the rated 19 amps (or 22 IIRC if you have the later generator & control box setup).

So, that's normal operation, as long as the current doesn't stay higher then the generator rating for more than about a minute or so
(depending on how cold it is).  If it stays up too long, your control box may be misadjusted or defective or wired wrong.

Without the action of the control box, the generator output depends almost directly on rpm.  At 1000-1200 rpm (for the generator),
it only puts out about enough to run it's own field windings and nothing for the battery.  You may even see the red light glowing,
to indicate that the cutout has opened and disconnected the generator from the battery, to prevent current flowing backwards through
the generator.  At around 2000 rpm (+- 100 rpm, again for the generator), it should be able to just barely meet it's rated capacity,
19 amps at 13.5 volts (plus the 2 amps or so it takes to run the field winding).  At higher speeds, it relies on the control box to
limit the output, as otherwise the generator will easily generate enough current to burn itself up.

As John Herrera used to say, I have experimented with this :)

Randall

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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <18894FB2F2D04D5A8DB208EAF3E7E54B@DaveLaptop><8F802D6E963540A38881A76AB3012882@livingroompc>
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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 17:01:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

very much so.  the issue imho is do you want to rebuild your face or take 
the chance on spinal compression?

after my nose was broken for the third time (over many years) I had some 
serious nose surgery.  I DO NOT want to go through that again.

at nationals two? years ago someone rolled their vitesse.  he was just fine. 
no roll bar, although he has one now.

but here are some facts:
at 35 mph a collision without a seat belt is fatal.
a collision at 20 mph is like falling off a 2 story building
a collision at 40 mph is like falling off a 4 story building

yes, I recently took driver ed to get out of a speeding ticket.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:48 PM
To: Dave Connitt ; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A

This is clearly an area with different points of view.  I have heard
arguments against installing a shoulder belt with the attachment point well
below your shoulder.  I believe the concern is spinal compression though
one could also ponder the wisdom of being strapped in an upright position
in one of these cars (w/o a roll bar).

Geo 

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Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 16:32:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: allenhess@mgcarclub.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Clutch not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Same thing happened on my TR6, and indeed, the fork was broken.


New clutch, rebuild gearbox, $4000 later, the car is happy and I am sad.


Craig 
72 Tr6
 
 
 
On 10/30/13, Allen Hess<allenhess@mgcarclub.com> wrote:
 
Try pumping the clutch two or three times in quick succession. If it 
then works or almost does, I'd suspect a broken fork pin. I stuck disc 
would not change the pedal feel. (I drove home once with that 
"technique".)

Allen
On Oct 30, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Drove and parked the TR3A two weeks ago, fun drive, no problems or 
> unusual
> sounds. Got in yesterday and the clutch will not release.
>
> Pedal feels about 10% softer than usual, slave cylinder is operating 
> the
> release arm but no disengagement. New Disk/PPplate/TO bearing just 
> 6 months
> ago, all have performed as expected until today.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 16:37:29 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:34:16 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7Vv8XZ3HJ93aWXR+yHEnvAKbTOfw==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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Came across what looks like a decent water pump in a box of parts acquired
with a TR3.  The water pump has a hole at the base, but no grease fitting.

 

I know the original pumps took a grease nipple, but I didn't think the
replacement pumps did.  My question is do the later (non-grease-nipple)
pumps have a hole, and if so, for what?

Andrew Uprichar

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 16:48:12 2013
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From: Craig Nicholls <thenicholls@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:44:28 -0400
References: <007d01ced5c0$2f9b0a10$8ed11e30$@uprichard.net>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If water comes out of the hole, it has failed.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 30, 2013, at 6:34 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:
>
> Came across what looks like a decent water pump in a box of parts acquired
> with a TR3.  The water pump has a hole at the base, but no grease fitting.
>
>
>
> I know the original pumps took a grease nipple, but I didn't think the
> replacement pumps did.  My question is do the later (non-grease-nipple)
> pumps have a hole, and if so, for what?
>
> Andrew Uprichar
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 16:55:15 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:59:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seat belts in a TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all that responded regarding installing seat belts in my TR4A. I do
have the factory mounts for a lap belt so that's two of the holes.. I am
definately going with the 3-point system and probably be using the retractors
too.
Thanks again!
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 17:21:12 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <007d01ced5c0$2f9b0a10$8ed11e30$@uprichard.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 18:00:26 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7Vv8XZ3HJ93aWXR+yHEnvAKbTOfwAAnvBA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That's a drain hole at the bottom for when they start leaking.  

I too have a couple of pumps on the shelf from previous projects, with and
without the zerks.  Does anyone know of a way to test the pump BEFORE
installing it on the car? 

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 water pump question

Came across what looks like a decent water pump in a box of parts acquired
with a TR3.  The water pump has a hole at the base, but no grease fitting.

 

I know the original pumps took a grease nipple, but I didn't think the
replacement pumps did.  My question is do the later (non-grease-nipple)
pumps have a hole, and if so, for what?

Andrew Uprichar

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 17:26:49 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 19:24:43 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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That is a drain hole for what coolant weeps past the seal.  The hole lets 
it drain away before hitting the bearing.  If not for that hole the leaked 
coolant would wash off the bearing lub and cause premature bearing failure.

Check the shaft diameter.  My TR3 water pump went awry due to a sloppy fit 
between the pump shaft and the pulley.  When I mic'd the shaft and hole 
there was a good .030 clearance.  The key kept things tight for a while but then 
it wore down and the pulley started to wobble and rub on the bolts and pump 
housing.

The pump was new, the pulley was old (although I cannot vouch for it being 
original).

Dave

In a message dated 10/30/2013 5:36:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> Came across what looks like a decent water pump in a box of parts 
> acquired
> with a TR3.  The water pump has a hole at the base, but no grease fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> I know the original pumps took a grease nipple, but I didn't think the
> replacement pumps did.  My question is do the later (non-grease-nipple)
> pumps have a hole, and if so, for what?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 19:19:56 2013
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 20:12:45 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch not releasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had this happen a GT6 several times.  What seemed to work for me was to roll
the car out to the street, and start the car in first or 2nd, and while it is
trying to start, pump the clutch pedal many tomes.  Another thing that worked
when that didn't is to find a hill to drive up and lug it up the hill in a
high gear like 3rd and when it is lugging down start pumping the pedal.  Or on
a flat straight rev the engine while in 1st and pump the pedal.  Those have
worked for me except once when I had to pull the gearbox.

Btw, all of my problems were caused by parking it over gravel.  No moisture
barrier.  This was in an aircraft T hanger.  When parked on asphalt or
concrete I never had these problems.

Hope this helps,
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 20:29:11 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 19:27:48 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7Vx1t24D/DVMEySF2jnJ6TW2URKQAGB9Jg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> If not for that hole the leaked 
> coolant would wash off the bearing lub and cause premature 
> bearing failure.

The weep hole also warns you when the seal is leaking, instead of waiting until the bearings fail entirely.

> Check the shaft diameter.  My TR3 water pump went awry due to 
> a sloppy fit 
> between the pump shaft and the pulley. 

Ditto.  My opinion, if you can push the pulley into position by hand, you've got a problem.  It has to be a light press fit on the
shaft.  I don't think I had anywhere near .030" clearance (before the failure), but after the first tap the pulley fell into place
and the pump only lasted a few months before the pulley worked loose, tore up the keyway and snapped the threaded portion of the
shaft.  It missed the radiator, but I don't know how.

Used Loctite RC609 on the replacements.  It's supposed to be able to create a press fit with as much as .010" clearance (but they
were a nice tight fit anyway).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 20:36:59 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <7725018.1383152994451.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 19:33:56 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat belts in TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Quite a few years ago I installed the retractor belts on the "B" post where
the hook was installed. The kit came with a bolt that matched perfectly with
a pipe-like tapered thread. The loop attached to the hoodstick resting post
on top of the wheel-well. I have Miata seats, and it did restrict the
movement backwards to the point that I switched back to the lap belt. I
hesitate in drilling a hole in the wheel-well on top of the shelf.

My wife liked the retractable belts better because they have longer webbing
and, umm, how do I say this nicely, with her larger size it made it easier
to fasten the belt. :)

I'm thinking about the standard three point belts without the retractor, and
installing them the same way to get the benefits of three points, and the
longer webbing of course.

Johnnie
'67 TR4A

> 
> Hi,
> 
> I saw a TR4 or TR6 that had installed the retractors down in front of
> the wheel wells, clear down on the vertical panel right behind the
> seats.  The owner was pretty happy with the way it works.  It has the
> advantage of not taking up space on the shelf behind the seat.  Not
> sure if it interferes with seat travel.
> 
> The loop was at the top of the wheel well.
> 
> Roger

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 30 22:01:52 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Triumph <tr3a.60@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2013 22:00:10 -0600
References: <18894FB2F2D04D5A8DB208EAF3E7E54B@DaveLaptop>
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Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tires & tubes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tell them to use as little of the soapy stuff as possible. It makes
for a larger range of pressure changes in the tires as temperatures
change. A small thing but why have H2O vapor in there.


Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Oct 30, 2013, at 3:26 PM, Triumph wrote:

> I have received my new Verdestein 165 HR 15 tires this morning, and
> UPS says
> that my new tubes and wheel liners will be here this evening.  I have
> identified a shop in town that local LBC types vouch for.
>
> My last question to the web wisdom is that there is anything that I
> should ask
> about or ask for when I drop everything off at the shop?
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> john.A.wWise@mac.com
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3-A
> Born" 15 Sep 1960
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 00:26:58 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7V+dBnpYtuZb13R3am0nUW9gbJ7A==
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Subject: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts
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I am in the process of restoring an early TR4A and I could use a few parts.

The car I have has TR6 seats. I'd like to have 4A seats if someone has a set
they would like to sell.  I would trade the TR6 seats or sell them if I find
TR4 seats.

The car is a spoke wheel car.  One left rear hub has slipped some time in
its life.  The tops of the teeth are flattened, not triangular like the
other 3 wheels.  If I could find one good hub, I would trade out the one
that isn't so good.  I could also use one 60-spoke painted wheel for a
spare.  I've got 4.  A 5th would be nice.

Thanks for looking.

Creig Houghtaling
Fenton, MO 63026
314-401-7817

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Bill Babbitt <wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 06:16:51 -0400
To: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Creig
You should have someone familiar with wire wheel hubs look them over. You may
actually have one new hub and three badly warn hubs. ISTR that the new ones
are flat top and as they wear the sides of the splines come together and
eventually touch, resulting in a sharp pointed top.
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2013, at 1:26 AM, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote:

> I am in the process of restoring an early TR4A and I could use a few parts.
>
> The car I have has TR6 seats. I'd like to have 4A seats if someone has a
set
> they would like to sell.  I would trade the TR6 seats or sell them if I
find
> TR4 seats.
>
> The car is a spoke wheel car.  One left rear hub has slipped some time in
> its life.  The tops of the teeth are flattened, not triangular like the
> other 3 wheels.  If I could find one good hub, I would trade out the one
> that isn't so good.  I could also use one 60-spoke painted wheel for a
> spare.  I've got 4.  A 5th would be nice.
>
> Thanks for looking.
>
> Creig Houghtaling
> Fenton, MO 63026
> 314-401-7817
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net

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Subject: [TR] Replacing TR4 transmission mount - from the top or bottom?
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All --

I need to replace the transmission mount on my TR4.  The last time I 
replaced it, the car was all apart, and access was easy.  Now I'm trying 
to figure out if I can remove the old one and install the new one from 
underneath the car, or if I need to pull the transmission tunnel and go 
in from the top.

Any guidance and tips will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Dean
1965 TR4
Austin, TX

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 05:51:07 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:46:47 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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Thanks for the tip.  My pump started making noise at Bodega Bay on Highway 
1.  We were staying south of Napa which was 50 miles.  Made it back without 
incident, luckily, and we put the car on the trailer and headed home (well, 
after spending another day in Napa Valley driving the Escape).  

Someday soon I will order up a new pump and pulley and some Locktite RC609 
and hope for the best.

Dave

In a message dated 10/30/2013 9:27:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes: 
> Ditto.  My opinion, if you can push the pulley into position by hand, 
> you've got a problem.  It has to be a light press fit on the
> shaft.  I don't think I had anywhere near .030" clearance (before the 
> failure), but after the first tap the pulley fell into place
> and the pump only lasted a few months before the pulley worked loose, tore 
> up the keyway and snapped the threaded portion of the
> shaft.  It missed the radiator, but I don't know how.
> 
> Used Loctite RC609 on the replacements.  It's supposed to be able to 
> create a press fit with as much as .010" clearance (but they
> were a nice tight fit anyway).

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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
To: Dean Mericas <dmericas@austin.rr.com>, Triumph List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:08:42 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing TR4 transmission mount - from the top or bottom?
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Dean-

I've only taken them off from above.  It may be possible from below, but I'm
skeptical.  Too many things in the way to get access to all the bolts - the
tough ones I think would be the main mount bolts from the gearbox tailshaft to
the mount.  After that, you'd either need to raise the whole gearbox up to get
the mount to clear the rear crossmember, or get access to the 4 bolts holding
the crossmember to the frame.  Tough either way.  My advice, bite the bullet
and pull the tunnel cover!

Randy
Texas Triumph Register member & 64 red TR4 owner


>
> I need to replace the transmission mount on my TR4.  The last time I
> replaced it, the car was all apart, and access was easy.  Now I'm trying
> to figure out if I can remove the old one and install the new one from
> underneath the car, or if I need to pull the transmission tunnel and go
> in from the top.
>
> Any guidance and tips will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing TR4 transmission mount - from the top or bottom?
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:29:52 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:26 PM, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>wrote:

> The car I have has TR6 seats. I'd like to have 4A seats... I would trade
> the TR6 seats or sell them if I find
> TR4 seats.


You may know this but just in case (since you mention both) TR4A seats are
different from TR4 seats.  I think the frames are the same so it is of no
matter if you get a set that will need to be recovered, but upholstery
itself changed with the 4A (good illustration of this in the Moss catalog).

Good call by Bill on the wire hub splines.  If your budget can stand it I
think you'd be doing yourself a big favor to get 4 new hubs and wheels --
then you're set for decades of trouble-free driving (where those parts are
concerned anyway).

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 08:45:41 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:44:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dean Mericas <dmericas@austin.rr.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing TR4 transmission mount - from the top or bottom?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Out from the top is the way to go here.  Actually a pretty straight-forward
one-person job.  It is easier (lighter for one thing) if it is a non-OD
gearbox.

It is so easy to remove the steering wheel on a TR4 (just undo the 2 bolts
holding that clamp thing on the column forward of the firewall and pull it
out) that I remove it and take the box out through the driver's side --
avoids having to wrassle it over the handbrake.

I usually remove both seats (again so easy, just 2 small bolts each) to
have maximum room to work.

I slip a length of pipe crossways under the tail housing to support that
end once all is free.

I use a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to support from below but
that is probably over-complex -- some just use stout crates, etc.

In case you don't know, I think you'll have to raise (and of course
support) the engine a bit -- but keep an eye on the throttle shaft that
crosses the engine bay right in front of the firewall.  Many of those (e.g.
my TR3A) are bowed because someone forgot to look at it whilst jacking the
engine.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 08:56:04 2013
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Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:52:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dean Mericas <dmericas@austin.rr.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing TR4 transmission mount - from the top or bottom?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 7:48 AM, Dean Mericas <dmericas@austin.rr.com>wrote:

> Thanks, George.
>
> I only need to replace the mount...



D'oh.  I learned to read in the first grade -- really I did.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 11:53:03 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 13:49:09 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7WKfv5Nq/rbPhqReWwLtimRobjHgAN39SA
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Subject: [TR] FW: GT6 Body
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From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net] 
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 7:14 AM
To: 'Spitfire list'; 'Triumphs'
Cc: 'Dennis McKinley'
Subject: GT6 Body

 

List members - A member of the Connecticut Triumph Register is looking for a
GT6 body. His original message appears below. If you can help, please
respond to Dennis directly. Thanks.

 

Alex Thomson

 

 

An additional request. Looking for a Triumph GT6+ or  GT6 Mark II body. Have
frame and drive train need usable body. 

Dennis McKinley

Dennis-mckinley@comcast.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 12:52:30 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <Dave1massey@cs.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 11:50:00 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7WL0iXXAdCc+WFSFOMKlOTc9VS1QAOP1kQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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> Someday soon I will order up a new pump and pulley and some 
> Locktite RC609 

There are probably better choices today than the 609.  I've got a big bottle of it left over from when I had a similar problem with
the front pulley on my former TR3A.  The crank snout was worn undersize from the pulley hub working loose and I didn't want to
replace it at the time, so I used the RC609 to make up the difference.  Worked quite well, and I was later able to remove the hub
without too much fuss, using a screw-type puller bolted to the holes in the hub and a bolt in the end of the crankshaft.  It just
laughed at me when I tapped on it, though.  

Back then, the 609 was only available in 50ml bottles, but it appears you can even get 0.5ml "single use" bottles today.
http://tinyurl.com/prqtruw

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 11:56:34 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7WIpItX2fFdZcNTwOhFyE0O8buegAR9Ocw
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> ISTR 
> that the new ones
> are flat top and as they wear the sides of the splines come 
> together and
> eventually touch, resulting in a sharp pointed top.

That's true, but then if you keep driving on them, eventually the sharp edge folds over and becomes flat again.  Very dangerous
situation, as if the wheel spins, you have no brakes on that wheel.  BTDT

Also worth noting that the hubs & wheels wear at the same time.  If you've got a worn-out hub, chances are that the wheel is pretty
bad too.  And mating one new to one worn will cause the new one to wear more rapidly.  Ideally they should be changed as a set.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 13:55:49 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 15:42:08 -0400 (EDT)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1383248528;
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 water pump question
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I see that Locktite (R) has three products that fit the description, 635, 
638 and 680.  All three are available through McMaster Carr.  Graingers has 
others as well including 609.

Dave

In a message dated 10/31/2013 1:49:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes: 
> >Someday soon I will order up a new pump and pulley and some 
> >Locktite RC609 
> 
> There are probably better choices today than the 609.  I've got a big 
> bottle of it left over from when I had a similar problem with
> the front pulley on my former TR3A.  The crank snout was worn undersize 
> from the pulley hub working loose and I didn't want to
> replace it at the time, so I used the RC609 to make up the difference.  
> Worked quite well, and I was later able to remove the hub
> without too much fuss, using a screw-type puller bolted to the holes in 
> the hub and a bolt in the end of the crankshaft.  It just
> laughed at me when I tapped on it, though.  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 16:41:39 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 18:32:31 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7WiQPo8XuN52HPSQ61EE0Z2kxZ7A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Again going through boxes of stuff I find a pair of TR3 gas tank straps -
but unlike others I have seen and used, these have a "flat" spot (about an
inch square) close to the top of the straps. The flat spot is drilled and
threaded.  Since I cannot think of anything high up either just in front of
or just behind the gas tank, can anyone help?  Were these standard or am I
dealing with the workings of a previous owner?  Thanks as always,

 

Andrew Uprichard

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 17:13:22 2013
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From: "Roger Wilson" <rjwilson1250@gmail.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00f701ced689$20153f10$603fbd30$@uprichard.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 16:07:58 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I just replace my tank and my straps had holes at each end for attachment,
no flat spot or hole at the top. 

Roger Wilson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 3:33 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps

Again going through boxes of stuff I find a pair of TR3 gas tank straps -
but unlike others I have seen and used, these have a "flat" spot (about an
inch square) close to the top of the straps. The flat spot is drilled and
threaded.  Since I cannot think of anything high up either just in front of
or just behind the gas tank, can anyone help?  Were these standard or am I
dealing with the workings of a previous owner?  Thanks as always,

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 18:19:19 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00f701ced689$20153f10$603fbd30$@uprichard.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 19:09:18 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7WiQPo8XuN52HPSQ61EE0Z2kxZ7AACwy4Q
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have not seen that on my present or previous TR3A's straps.  Sounds like the
work of a PO with a special idea.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 5:33 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps

Again going through boxes of stuff I find a pair of TR3 gas tank straps -
but unlike others I have seen and used, these have a "flat" spot (about an
inch square) close to the top of the straps. The flat spot is drilled and
threaded.  Since I cannot think of anything high up either just in front of
or just behind the gas tank, can anyone help?  Were these standard or am I
dealing with the workings of a previous owner?  Thanks as always,

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 31 19:23:09 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 17:59:36 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7WiQPo8XuN52HPSQ61EE0Z2kxZ7AAE5SyQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gas tank straps
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Again going through boxes of stuff I find a pair of TR3 gas 
> tank straps -
> but unlike others I have seen and used, these have a "flat" 
> spot (about an
> inch square) close to the top of the straps. The flat spot is 
> drilled and
> threaded.  

TS13571L has the same thing, I believe they are original to the car.
http://tinyurl.com/knthhtt

Possibly the original intent was as an attachment point for the back panel for the "occasional" seat?  That I don't know.  But I
think the original back panel will sit against the pads, and I know the early occasional seats used an extra piece in that area
(instead of just padding built into the cockpit rear panel like the 3As used).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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