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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 16:15:26 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac7XPskSxJHelDk/QNqzBiDXRpJcMw==
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Subject: [TR] Part Needed
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Please contact me off list if you have a good used TR4 door lock striker,
driver side.  I actually need the plastic piece as mine is damaged and they
don't sell just the plastic piece.  Moss Part # 803-130, Factory part number
701354.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Trguy75@gmail.com

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  1 21:37:54 2013
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2013 22:31:28 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7XfAQrIqeXkXsKRz2tGpuEcnoiQg==
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	FILETIME=[02AD2020:01CED77C]
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts (OD transmission tunnel)
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I compared the 3 hubs that I felt were OK next to a new hub.  The splines on
the 3 are very similar in appearance to the new one.  I used a caliper to
compare the total outer diameter of the hub at the spline peaks.  The 3 and
the new one were very close.  The one poor one was noticeably less total
outside diameter at the spline peaks.

Another thing I could use is a functional transmission tunnel that could fit
over an overdrive transmission.

-----Original Message-----
From: Creig Houghtaling [mailto:creig555@live.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2013 9:04 AM
To: 'Bill Babbitt'
Cc: 'Triumphs'; 'Alex&Janet Thomson'
Subject: RE: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts

Bill, Alex, Great information!  As you can tell, I have no experience with
wire wheels.  I'm going to the shop today where the car is having work done.
I'll look at them closer and maybe take some pictures. Creig

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Babbitt [mailto:wbabbitt@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 5:17 AM
To: Creig Houghtaling
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts

Creig
You should have someone familiar with wire wheel hubs look them over. You
may actually have one new hub and three badly warn hubs. ISTR that the new
ones are flat top and as they wear the sides of the splines come together
and eventually touch, resulting in a sharp pointed top. 
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2013, at 1:26 AM, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote:

> I am in the process of restoring an early TR4A and I could use a few
parts.
> 
> The car I have has TR6 seats. I'd like to have 4A seats if someone has 
> a set they would like to sell.  I would trade the TR6 seats or sell 
> them if I find
> TR4 seats.
> 
> The car is a spoke wheel car.  One left rear hub has slipped some time 
> in its life.  The tops of the teeth are flattened, not triangular like 
> the other 3 wheels.  If I could find one good hub, I would trade out 
> the one that isn't so good.  I could also use one 60-spoke painted 
> wheel for a spare.  I've got 4.  A 5th would be nice.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Creig Houghtaling
> Fenton, MO 63026
> 314-401-7817
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  1 22:35:45 2013
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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 04:30:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1383366603;
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Great ad for Spitfire in western Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Good catch!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 12:37:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Great ad for Spitfire in western Wisconsin
> Yes, a good ad. Maybe not quite so original, but still entertaining...
> http://enid.craigslist.org/cto/4119280944.html%3C/div%3E
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 12:53 PM, <pethier@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/4154990742.html
> >
> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> > pethier@comcast.net
> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> > http://www.mnautox.com
> > http://www.mntriumphs.org
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 07:20:28 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts (OD transmission tunnel)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Use the plastic cover from TRF.  Fits perfectly and will last forever.  I've
had mine since 1990.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>

 Another thing I could use is a functional transmission tunnel that could
fitover an overdrive transmission.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  2 07:58:33 2013
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Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2013 09:54:30 -0400
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	<8D0A5E408368DEE-65C-30D23@webmail-m223.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts (OD transmission tunnel)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the cover on both my 4 and 6. They are much stronger than the 
original pressed paper but at least for me, there was a bit of 
'colorful' language heard by my wife during installation. The plastic is 
not as forgiving as the original paper.

The use of multiple thin philips screwdrivers to line up the holes with 
their welded nuts was helpful.

Bob

On 11/02/2013 09:10 AM, Dave Massey wrote:
>   Use the plastic cover from TRF.  Fits perfectly and will last forever.  I've
> had mine since 1990.
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
>
>   Another thing I could use is a functional transmission tunnel that could
> fitover an overdrive transmission.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2013 09:03:36 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Looking for TR4A parts (OD transmission tunnel)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Nov 1, 2013 at 8:31 PM, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote:

...Another thing I could use is a functional transmission tunnel that could
fit
over an overdrive transmission....

FYI -- same tunnel is used for both OD & non-OD gearboxes.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 13:56:46 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2013 15:43:35 -0500
Thread-index: Ac7Yzc7UG1t+zYimRtOQzeu2iwAsTw==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

How do you test a fuel gauge and/or the sending unit out of the car?   I am
not getting any readings (no fuel level on gauge).  

 

wiring: 

a) switched green to 'B' side of gauge

b) 'T' side - green/black into harness and out to insulated side of sending
unit

c) black from other side of sending unit to ground at tank strap

d) added ground from gauge mount to ground point on center dash (which is
also directly connected to frame)

 

about 10 gallons of gas in tank


Power on - no reading.

 

I have a test lamp with alligator clips on both sides (indicated as TL
below)

I have a jumper from gauge mount direct to frame ground (FG) as gauge is
hanging loose and not grounded through dash,etc

 

tests:

1) 'B' side  TL  to  gauge mount  tests ok  so there is juice to the gauge.

2) Ran a jumper from 'T' side of gauge to the insulated side of the sending
unit (SU) and another from the ground side of the SU to the same FG as
above.  still no fuel level on gauge.

3) Jumped between two terminals on sending unit - still no fuel level on
gauge

4) Changed gauge mount jumper from FG to SU ground; 'B' TL to gauge mount
tests ok so the sending unit is grounded. 

5) 'B' side TL  to SU-Insulated - no TL; added jumper between 2 SU terminals
- TL ok.  Is Sending Unit functional?

 

I don't know what to do next.

How do I tell if it is the sending unit or the gauge?  or could it be both?


 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 17:01:13 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>, "Truiumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:18:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] Little Rock Nov 15, 16, 17
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, all.

Ibm going to a wedding Nov 16 (evening).

I've convinced the wife to go in the TR6!

any british stuff happening?  anyone want to meet for breakfast on the 17th?

dave northrup
dallas, tx

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 17:05:28 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>, "Truiumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:01:39 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I recommend, and did:

aluminum fan base
electric fan
lightened flywheel
shaved, ported and polished head
decked block
pistons 30 over
balanced engine
goodparts gp2 cam
goodparts triple carb setup (uses the zs carbs)
goodparts lowered suspension springs
upgraded goodparts front sway bar
goodparts rear swaybar
goodparts adjustable camber rear trailing arm mounts
heavy duty rear lever arm shocks 
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg
replacement lug nuts (hated that flakey chrome look) 
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/LugNuts.jpg
brass gas tank sending unit float 
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/fordfloat.jpg
litezupp L.E.D stop and rear blinkers 
http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/LIteZupp.jpg
digital flasher unit  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/BlinkerEL12.jpg
215/60R15 yokohama tires  http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/scan0008.jpg
high torque starter from ted schumacher

do all this and you won't recognize the car.  but YOU WILL LOVE IT!!!!!
this car is competitive with a tr6 with a rover v8 in autocross


all pretty well documented at www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6

contact me offline if you have any questions.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Rochlin
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 4:08 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net ; Truiumphs
Subject: [6pack] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild

Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a 
bit.
I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors and
wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new set
up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing 
the
rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that 
it's
ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a year
ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test confirmed
that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The car burns
almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components should I
replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I should look 
out
for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.  Bob 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 17:25:57 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 17:48:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fw: >>NASS  Triumph TR6, Help
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

from the spitfire list

From: kl854@iquest.net
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 5:21 PM
To: nass@yahoogroups.com ; Michael
Subject: >>NASS Triumph TR6, Help




Dear Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts/ Fellow NASSers,

I am emailing to ask your help/to put the word out about a TR6 for
sale in my family. I hope posting it here is appropriate.

Some years back, my cousin's husband Ken bought a 1974 TR6. The car
ran, but needed restoration. I believe when they started taking the
car apart it was discovered that it had been hit on the rear driver's
side. Ken was pretty handy and knew his way around cars, so he started
restoring the car himself. Unfortunately, soon after starting on the
project he was diagnosed with Lou Gehrig's disease. His health
deteriorated quickly and he passed away after a hard fight.

His wife and son attempted to continue restoring the car. They took
the sheet metal to someone who was to do repair and painting. As all
too often happens, the guy did nothing and the parts sat for a couple
of years until recently when my cousin said "I'm coming to get them,
done or not".

SO...my cousin has contacted me asking for help. She would like to
sell the car. It is apart, needing restoration and assembly. I do not
know what has been done or what still needs to be done, but would like
to help, and would like to honor Ken's memory by placing this car with
someone who will finish it.

The car is located in Salem, Indiana, about 35 miles north of
Louisville, KY. If anyone is interested, please contact me at;
kl854@iquest.net and I will forward the message on to my cousin. If
anyone here knows folks from the 6Pack club, please forward this to
them.

MANY THANKS!

Kevin Ludwig
NASS #63
Indianapolis, IN

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  3 17:52:42 2013
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Date: Sun, 03 Nov 2013 19:22:55 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.0
To: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin@hotmail.com>,  Truiumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY167-W93BA55C8AAEDFDEB4BB30C9FF70@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [TR] 72" TR6 Engine Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bob,

I did a 72 a few years back.

I replaced:

Main and small end bearings.
Front and rear seal
Rings
Had the block hot tanked and cylinders honed. They had zero wear.
Head hot tanked and shaved a bit to insure it was flat, with new 
hardened exhaust seats installed. Bronze valve guides. Valve job. Went 
with original valves.
Crank just had the journals polished. All surfaces were at spec.
Steel front crank sealing block to replace the original aluminum one 
which was stripped where the oil pan bolts attach.
Also:

Flywheel resurfaced.
Exhaust manifold jet hot coated.
Upgraded thrust washers from Wishbone.
Rebuilt distributor from Advanced with micro advance/retard added (like 
on the 3 and 4)
Hitachi SU HS6 carburators from Paltech. (I am SU thru and thru) Didnt 
want to have to learn ZS.

Had the cam journals polished. Did not add bearings.

Stayed with the original lifters, rockers, push rods.

great oil flow to the rockers.

Got a Justin Wagner valve cover gasket. But they are now NLA.

Electric fuel pump with regulator.

I just finished my 3rd season and the engine runs just great. Oil 
pressure runs about 70PSI when hot at about 2K RPM. Drops to about 40 - 
45 at idle.
Runs cool and sounds great with the Bell dual exhaust system.

Starts right up and idles at 700 RPM after warming up.

I have to say rebuilding a 6 engine seemed easier than the 3 or 4 engines.

Bob
On 11/03/2013 05:08 PM, Bob Rochlin wrote:
> Hi List,   I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
> winter.  I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
> guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make.   I'm thinking of
> getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a bit.
> I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors and
> wonder of they are  able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new set
> up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed.   Speaking of cams, how
> necessary are cam bearings?  Should I have them installed while I'm doing the
> rebuild?  The engine runs very well, but bit doggie.  I don't think that it's
> ever had any machine shop work done.  I did a compression test about a year
> ago.  The results were low of 85, hight of 120.  A leak down test confirmed
> that almost all the lost compression was through  the rings.  The car burns
> almost no oil (it just leaks out a little)  what other components should I
> replace as a matter of course during the rebuild?  Anything I should look out
> for?  I am long forward to hearing your advice.  Take care.  Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 20:03:25 -0500
Thread-index: Ac7Y+apM8KX2oSoYQ3K8mqbC2hgwfg==
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Subject: [TR] Commission Number Question
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Anyone know the correct size of punch set letters/numbers one would use to
replicate the original commission numbers.  It is a 1962 TR4 commission
plate and they look like 1/8 inch.  I know all the questions regarding
legality by states etc.  Just wanted to know what the factory size is
supposed to be for these.

Thanks

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 18:35:39 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission Number Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe 1/8" is correct -- what is harder to do is match the font.  In
particular 3s and 4s may be hard to find in the original style.  But then
that is a very small detail to some.

Geo


On Sun, Nov 3, 2013 at 6:03 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> Anyone know the correct size of punch set letters/numbers one would use to
> replicate the original commission numbers.  It is a 1962 TR4 commission
> plate and they look like 1/8 inch.  I know all the questions regarding
> legality by states etc.  Just wanted to know what the factory size is
> supposed to be for these.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A TR3 fuel gauge should read full with the green/black wire disconnected and
it should read empty with the green/black wire connected directly to ground.
If the gauge doesn't respond like this I would suspect the gauge.  You can
test the sender directly with an ohm meter.  Full should be 500 ohms or more
and empty should be 50 ohms or less.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: ''Triumphs'' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 3, 2013 2:53 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue


How do you test a fuel gauge and/or the sending unit out of the car?   I am
not getting any readings (no fuel level on gauge).



wiring:

a) switched green to 'B' side of gauge

b) 'T' side - green/black into harness and out to insulated side of sending
unit

c) black from other side of sending unit to ground at tank strap

d) added ground from gauge mount to ground point on center dash (which is
also directly connected to frame)



about 10 gallons of gas in tank


Power on - no reading.



I have a test lamp with alligator clips on both sides (indicated as TL
below)

I have a jumper from gauge mount direct to frame ground (FG) as gauge is
hanging loose and not grounded through dash,etc



tests:

1) 'B' side  TL  to  gauge mount  tests ok  so there is juice to the gauge.

2) Ran a jumper from 'T' side of gauge to the insulated side of the sending
unit (SU) and another from the ground side of the SU to the same FG as
above.  still no fuel level on gauge.

3) Jumped between two terminals on sending unit - still no fuel level on
gauge

4) Changed gauge mount jumper from FG to SU ground; 'B' TL to gauge mount
tests ok so the sending unit is grounded.

5) 'B' side TL  to SU-Insulated - no TL; added jumper between 2 SU terminals
- TL ok.  Is Sending Unit functional?



I don't know what to do next.

How do I tell if it is the sending unit or the gauge?  or could it be both?




Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:26:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 11:58:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue -- resolved
 (well sort of)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded - also for the images and links to mga guru.   seems the gauge is toast.  Will send it off for repair.  Sending unit is functioning as it should.   

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 11/03/13, CFM-TR wrote:

How do you test a fuel gauge and/or the sending unit out of the car? I am
not getting any readings (no fuel level on gauge). 



wiring: 

a) switched green to 'B' side of gauge

b) 'T' side - green/black into harness and out to insulated side of sending
unit

c) black from other side of sending unit to ground at tank strap

d) added ground from gauge mount to ground point on center dash (which is
also directly connected to frame)



about 10 gallons of gas in tank


Power on - no reading.



I have a test lamp with alligator clips on both sides (indicated as TL
below)

I have a jumper from gauge mount direct to frame ground (FG) as gauge is
hanging loose and not grounded through dash,etc



tests:

1) 'B' side TL to gauge mount tests ok so there is juice to the gauge.

2) Ran a jumper from 'T' side of gauge to the insulated side of the sending
unit (SU) and another from the ground side of the SU to the same FG as
above. still no fuel level on gauge.

3) Jumped between two terminals on sending unit - still no fuel level on
gauge

4) Changed gauge mount jumper from FG to SU ground; 'B' TL to gauge mount
tests ok so the sending unit is grounded. 

5) 'B' side TL to SU-Insulated - no TL; added jumper between 2 SU terminals
- TL ok. Is Sending Unit functional?



I don't know what to do next.

How do I tell if it is the sending unit or the gauge? or could it be both?




Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 11:41:13 2013
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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <22427760.928670.1383587913076.JavaMail.root@vms170027>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 12:33:09 -0600
thread-index: Ac7Zi0V/QLAanZGcSGmfcA9cLthhBAAAPJ7A
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue -- resolved
 (well sort of)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Be sure to send your sending unit along with the gauge so they can be tested
as a set.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2013 11:59 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 fuel level sending unit and gauge issue -- resolved
(well sort of)

Thanks to all who responded - also for the images and links to mga guru.
seems the gauge is toast.  Will send it off for repair.  Sending unit is
functioning as it should.   

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 11/03/13, CFM-TR wrote:

How do you test a fuel gauge and/or the sending unit out of the car? I am
not getting any readings (no fuel level on gauge). 



wiring: 

a) switched green to 'B' side of gauge

b) 'T' side - green/black into harness and out to insulated side of sending
unit

c) black from other side of sending unit to ground at tank strap

d) added ground from gauge mount to ground point on center dash (which is
also directly connected to frame)



about 10 gallons of gas in tank


Power on - no reading.



I have a test lamp with alligator clips on both sides (indicated as TL
below)

I have a jumper from gauge mount direct to frame ground (FG) as gauge is
hanging loose and not grounded through dash,etc



tests:

1) 'B' side TL to gauge mount tests ok so there is juice to the gauge.

2) Ran a jumper from 'T' side of gauge to the insulated side of the sending
unit (SU) and another from the ground side of the SU to the same FG as
above. still no fuel level on gauge.

3) Jumped between two terminals on sending unit - still no fuel level on
gauge

4) Changed gauge mount jumper from FG to SU ground; 'B' TL to gauge mount
tests ok so the sending unit is grounded. 

5) 'B' side TL to SU-Insulated - no TL; added jumper between 2 SU terminals
- TL ok. Is Sending Unit functional?



I don't know what to do next.

How do I tell if it is the sending unit or the gauge? or could it be both?




Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 15:13:58 2013
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Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 15:00:45 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission Number Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John --

I, for one, will never again look at those commission plates without
thinking of those lads and their sacrifice.

Geo.


On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 1:58 PM, John Macartney <
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Jim
>
> Sadly I can't help with sizing issues except to say they weren't always in
> the same 'font.' What I can tell you is all commission plates between about
> 1946 and 1975 were hand stamped by a small group of five men who were given
> jobs at Standard-Triumph immediately after WW2 by the then CEO. I remember
> all of them (though not now by name) and they were employed because of
> their horrendous war injuries. Two, to my certain knowledge got badly shot
> up on the beaches on D-Day (6 June 1944) and were seriously disabled, one
> had been an RAF fighter pilot with indescribable burns and two had had a
> very rough time in the PoW camps in Burma. It was an incredibly boring job
> but they all did it assiduously until some years past retirement age and
> while the spacing and positioning of the letters and numbers may not have
> been absolutely precise, they rarely, if ever got it wrong.
>
> Jonmac
>
> PS Totally useless information about the query but I thought some listers
> might appreciate the story that lurked behind?
>
>   *From:* Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
> *To:* James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, 4 November 2013, 1:35
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Commission Number Question
>
> I believe 1/8" is correct -- what is harder to do is match the font.  In
> particular 3s and 4s may be hard to find in the original style.  But then
> that is a very small detail to some.
>
> Geo
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 3, 2013 at 6:03 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Anyone know the correct size of punch set letters/numbers one would use
> to
> > replicate the original commission numbers.  It is a 1962 TR4 commission
> > plate and they look like 1/8 inch.  I know all the questions regarding
> > legality by states etc.  Just wanted to know what the factory size is
> > supposed to be for these.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jim Henningsen
> >
> > Ocala, FL
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 16:02:21 2013
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Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 17:51:14 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.0
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
References: <001b01ced8f9$ab7aef60$0270ce20$@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFD1Ei_JukaJrp5J9zQ0JVfmm=6326FCWACZ4S6=K+Xpg@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission Number Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

I have the original plates from a 57 TR3, my 58 TR3A and my 63 TR4. I 
think I will try and make a plaque with those plates and take your text 
written below to sort of give a history caption of sorts for my kids, 
who will get the cars when they put me 6 foot under.

My dad was in D-Day + 1 and everytime I see footage of that operation, I 
have to wonder how he made it to the beach and into the countryside alive.

He survived wounds received on D-Day + 2 and married my Mom, who he met 
while in rehab in Birmingham.

Thank you very much for that posting.

Bob


On 11/04/2013 05:00 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> John --
>
> I, for one, will never again look at those commission plates without
> thinking of those lads and their sacrifice.
>
> Geo.
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 1:58 PM, John Macartney <
> flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> Jim
>>
>> Sadly I can't help with sizing issues except to say they weren't always in
>> the same 'font.' What I can tell you is all commission plates between about
>> 1946 and 1975 were hand stamped by a small group of five men who were given
>> jobs at Standard-Triumph immediately after WW2 by the then CEO. I remember
>> all of them (though not now by name) and they were employed because of
>> their horrendous war injuries. Two, to my certain knowledge got badly shot
>> up on the beaches on D-Day (6 June 1944) and were seriously disabled, one
>> had been an RAF fighter pilot with indescribable burns and two had had a
>> very rough time in the PoW camps in Burma. It was an incredibly boring job
>> but they all did it assiduously until some years past retirement age and
>> while the spacing and positioning of the letters and numbers may not have
>> been absolutely precise, they rarely, if ever got it wrong.
>>
>> Jonmac
>>
>> PS Totally useless information about the query but I thought some listers
>> might appreciate the story that lurked behind?
>>
>>    *From:* Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
>> *To:* James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, 4 November 2013, 1:35
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Commission Number Question
>>
>> I believe 1/8" is correct -- what is harder to do is match the font.  In
>> particular 3s and 4s may be hard to find in the original style.  But then
>> that is a very small detail to some.
>>
>> Geo
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2013 at 6:03 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone know the correct size of punch set letters/numbers one would use
>> to
>>> replicate the original commission numbers.  It is a 1962 TR4 commission
>>> plate and they look like 1/8 inch.  I know all the questions regarding
>>> legality by states etc.  Just wanted to know what the factory size is
>>> supposed to be for these.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Jim Henningsen
>>>
>>> Ocala, FL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Mon, 04 Nov 2013 18:32:01 -0500
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 2013 18:32:08 -0600
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <32285483.1382272706586.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Car trouble in Hannibal,  Mo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi All,

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions on what could be wrong 
and to give an update as to the actual cause.

But first a couple of things I tried.  Tried popping open the gas cap - 
no help.  Checked the wire on the Pertronix plate, I could not get it to 
indicate it was broken.  Replaced more of the gas lines.

Then I took off the top of the fuel pump, thinking I would check the 
screen in it.  There was no screen.  But then I noticed the problem.

drum roll.

Only one of the valves was in place.  The other one was laying down on 
top of the fuel pump.    So, I took the pump off, took it apart and 
tapped the valve back in place and then staked it.  Put the pump back on 
and took it for a drive.  It ran fine.

I think the only reason, the car was restarting is that the tank was 
full and providing some pressure to help fill the carbs.

The valve must have finally fallen out at the time we were getting gas.

Roger Elliott


On 10/20/2013 07:38 AM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi,
> We have been driving my wife's TR 250 through Ohio for the last week.  It has been running great until we stopped for gas.
>
> It started out fine, but as we were pulling on the highway, it didn't have any power and then died.
>
>
> I found a vacuum hose that had come out I put it back in and it ran fine while we drove a short distance to a restaraunt.  But then, we we got onto the highway, we drove about 3 miles and it ran out of power and dies again.
>
>
> Hoses were still in place.  I replaced the fuel filter, checked 1 diaphragm.  It was okay. I thought if only 1 was bad, it probably would not die. The fuel filter was full of gas and seemed to let the gas through.
>
>
> Oil pressure was good. doesnt'seem to be electrical.
>
> So, I have 2 questions.  1) Any suggestions on what it might be?
>
> 2) Any suggestions for a shop in Hannibel, MO?
>
> Roger Elliott
> 68 TR 250
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2013 19:46:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overheating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,
I would like some suggestions on trouble shooting a overheating problem.

I have just recently started my 1967 Triumph TR4A and while it runs fine, I
have a overheating problem.
A little background first;
1. Rebuilt engine which included boiling out the block.
2. New 6-vane water pump.
3. 14 inch electric "puller" type radiator fan.
4. thermostatic switch plumbed into new stainless steel down tube from water
pump to lower radiator connection. (closes at 97 degrees C, opens at 67
degrees C)
5. New 180 degree thermostat.
6. Radiator was rebuilt with new core.
7. 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water

Symptoms;
I start the engine and it warms up quickly and within 2-3 minutes the
temperature gauge is on "H". The top of the radiator is hot. the down tube is
cool so the thermostatic switch won't close.

What I have checked so far;
1. Removed the two wires from the thermostatic switch (control and ground)
shorted them together and the electric fan starts.
2. Removed the thermostatic switch, tested it and it works fine.
3. Verified that the thermostat works.

I am down to suspecting that the radiator is somehow clogged up but would like
to make sure there isn't something I have missed before I do that as it is a
PIA to get out with the electric fan wired up.
Any ideas??
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <ldVS1m0010NyJgq01dVTH4>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 17:37:32 -0800
Thread-Index: AQGtILNQu3EEIWP2zW3ikqALV7ihGJpZTbFA
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating
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How much water actually went in?  Sounds like an air bubble in the rad.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 4:47 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A overheating

Hello List,
I would like some suggestions on trouble shooting a overheating problem.

I have just recently started my 1967 Triumph TR4A and while it runs fine, I
have a overheating problem.
A little background first;
1. Rebuilt engine which included boiling out the block.
2. New 6-vane water pump.
3. 14 inch electric "puller" type radiator fan.
4. thermostatic switch plumbed into new stainless steel down tube from water
pump to lower radiator connection. (closes at 97 degrees C, opens at 67
degrees C) 5. New 180 degree thermostat.
6. Radiator was rebuilt with new core.
7. 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water

Symptoms;
I start the engine and it warms up quickly and within 2-3 minutes the
temperature gauge is on "H". The top of the radiator is hot. the down tube
is cool so the thermostatic switch won't close.

What I have checked so far;
1. Removed the two wires from the thermostatic switch (control and ground)
shorted them together and the electric fan starts.
2. Removed the thermostatic switch, tested it and it works fine.
3. Verified that the thermostat works.

I am down to suspecting that the radiator is somehow clogged up but would
like to make sure there isn't something I have missed before I do that as it
is a PIA to get out with the electric fan wired up.
Any ideas??
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 19:19:32 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <612B220C8F40429E986DE8A420557F55@DaveLaptop>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 18:10:03 -0800
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave,
Like you I initially had the same problem on my new engine startup last
month, and it was the thermostat. I verified it by actually watching water
come out as the engine heated up.

BTW, the normal temp range for TR4A is using a 165 deg thermostat with a 4
lb radiator cap. The 180 will obviously make it run a little hotter.

Johnnie

> Hello List,
> I would like some suggestions on trouble shooting a overheating
> problem.
> 
> I have just recently started my 1967 Triumph TR4A and while it runs
> fine, I have a overheating problem.
> A little background first;
> 1. Rebuilt engine which included boiling out the block.
> 2. New 6-vane water pump.
> 3. 14 inch electric "puller" type radiator fan.
> 4. thermostatic switch plumbed into new stainless steel down tube from
> water pump to lower radiator connection. (closes at 97 degrees C, opens
> at 67 degrees C) 5. New 180 degree thermostat.
> 6. Radiator was rebuilt with new core.
> 7. 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water
> 
> Symptoms;
> I start the engine and it warms up quickly and within 2-3 minutes the
> temperature gauge is on "H". The top of the radiator is hot. the down
> tube is cool so the thermostatic switch won't close.
> 
> What I have checked so far;
> 1. Removed the two wires from the thermostatic switch (control and
> ground) shorted them together and the electric fan starts.
> 2. Removed the thermostatic switch, tested it and it works fine.
> 3. Verified that the thermostat works.
> 
> I am down to suspecting that the radiator is somehow clogged up but
> would like to make sure there isn't something I have missed before I do
> that as it is a PIA to get out with the electric fan wired up.
> Any ideas??
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov  4 19:20:39 2013
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Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 2:10:08 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> I start the engine and it warms up quickly and within 2-3 minutes the
> temperature gauge is on "H". The top of the radiator is hot. the down tube is
> cool so the thermostatic switch won't close.

How hot?  Is there any chance your temp gauge is reading way high and the engine isn't really overheated?  It can be hard to tell the difference between 170F and 200F just by resting your hand on it.  But at 170F you would expect the thermostat to stay closed and block flow through the radiator.  The upper tank still gets hot from conduction, though.

If the top is definitely getting over 180F and the bottom is still cool without the fan running, then you clearly have a circulation problem.  Could be a clogged radiator; but they rarely clog up all at once so I would be double-checking other things.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2013 22:04:55 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7Zxr23pi21IpijQJuq3X2zdsJjPAABHGWAAAe6gqA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating
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> BTW, the normal temp range for TR4A is using a 165 deg 
> thermostat with a 4
> lb radiator cap.

There is a service note dated April 8, 1965 that describes an 82C (180F) wax pellet thermostat.  According to Piggott, 82C was
standard, but some cars were fitted with 88C (for cold climates).

Piggott also agrees with Moss that the radiator cap was changed to 7 psi during TR4 production, and all TR4A had 7 psi.

Apparently, they never updated the workshop manual with these changes.

Note that the change to 7 psi did not happen at the same time as the filler neck change, so there are 7 psi caps listed in both 3/4"
reach and 1" reach.  Obviously you want to be careful to get the cap that matches your neck.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 20:31:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overheating update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tonight I did a quick test of the temperature guage with a cup of hot water
and a digital themometer. At 170 F water temp. the guage was about 1/4 of the
way across the movement. Seems kind of low to me. I will try it again tomorrow
night just to make sure I can rule out the guage. It's starting to look like I
need to remove the radiator and take it back to the shop.
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2013 20:37:16 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - How is this possible?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

Got myself a brand new vacuum gauge, so I am doing some tuning tinkering this
week.
I have managed to get the car idling with the SU HS6 throttles being
completely closed.
How is this possible?  How can any fuel/air make it into the intake manifold
with fully closed throttles?


Stay Frosty,

Guy D Huggins

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  5 20:19:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 3:15:27 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - How is this possible?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> How is this possible?  How can any fuel/air make it into the intake manifold
> with fully closed throttles?

The throttle plates never seal perfectly.  Perhaps yours are worn (or misaligned, etc) enough that they pass enough air to idle.  

Or, maybe you have air coming in some other way (like through the PCV valve), and the mixture is rich enough that the leakage past the plates plus the external air is still a combustible mixture.  Leaking float valve, maybe?

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  6 09:24:51 2013
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References: <74A9BC56B8664D4A9BB1CB37969FD8C3@DaveLaptop>
To: dconnitt@fuse.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
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 Dave, how does this compare to the way the gauge reads when installed in the
car? I can't help but wonder if your sender is bad, which is a reasonably
common problem.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>


Tonight I did a quick test of the temperature guage with a cup of hot water
and a digital themometer. At 170 F water temp. the guage was about 1/4 of the
way across the movement. Seems kind of low to me. I will try it again
tomorrow
night just to make sure I can rule out the guage. It's starting to look like
I
need to remove the radiator and take it back to the shop.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  6 09:47:56 2013
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From: Robert Noyes-Smith <robnoyes@cybermesa.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 09:14:40 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 1961 TR3A for Sale $26,333
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We have to sell this restored TR3, affectionally named by my wife as
Lemondrop. You can email or call me at 505-821-4369. Please only serious
enquiries, Thank you, Rob.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Lemondrop Sales description Oct. 2013.doc]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  6 13:24:24 2013
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Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 11:46:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Number size (key blanks)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a question on the number  size for the wilmot breeden keys.  The wilmot
breeden keys
listed the key letters and numbers for the FA, FP, FS, etc.
Source some New Old Stock
keys from some Volvo dealership with just the
letters "FP" and "FS" stamped on the blank.
If I am out of the printed key
blank by code number, can use the un-cut blank and cut the key to
code. Advise
the car owner I will be unable to stamp the ###.

I have made inquiries to car
owners in the UK, looking for the stamping numbers.

Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
Ellicott City MD USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <000b01ced12c$bb761f90$32625eb0$@rr.com>
	<8D09F642098E742-994-11193@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>
From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 19:19:16 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed what
looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.  The
seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and the
covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
Thanks in advance.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<36EB5F79-7AE6-4F3F-8AD0-182297080FB2@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 06:19:53 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Nov 6, 2013 at 5:19 PM, <john-marie@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> ...seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard
> and the
> covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not...


I do not know that particular TRF product (though their attention to detail
is usually pretty good) but the construction you describe sounds like the
originals to me.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <000b01ced12c$bb761f90$32625eb0$@rr.com>
	<8D09F642098E742-994-11193@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>
	<36EB5F79-7AE6-4F3F-8AD0-182297080FB2@sbcglobal.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 08:40:57 -0600
To: "john-marie@sbcglobal.net" <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have the complete interior from TRF for my 3A, excellent fit and finish.  I
too took advantage of the special pricing and bought it long before I really
needed it.

Keep in mind they can take up to six weeks to ship some items.   I am
currently waiting for the same interior set for my 3B, but the body is not
back so it's not a big issue.

Bill


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 6:19 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> Hello List,
>
> I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
> TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed what
> looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.  The
> seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and
the
> covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
> appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 11:25:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr-3 lukewarm heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

newly restored tr-3 has a Meradyne heater installed.  Temp guage shows 180-190
radiator temperature but very luke warm heat from the heater. 


I assumed an
air bubble in the heater core so tried to remove that by running engine with
radiator cap off until thermostat opened.  Then I loosened the inlet heater
hose at the firewall untill water seeped out and also did that at the firewall
for the outlet, attempting to bleed the air out.  Before I got everything
finished the car overheated and coolant boiled out.  


Shut everything down
and let it cool, added more coolant and installed cap and am gonna forget it
for now.  Oh, during this process I also had the front of the car jacked up
high.....hoping this would get the radiator resevoir above the heater
resevoir.  


Drove it around for 15 minutes and still lukewarm heat from the
heater.  Anyone have suggestions or more clear instructions on next move?  I
do have the skirted thermostat.


gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 13:41:21 2013
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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 20:16:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Robert Noyes-Smith <robnoyes@cybermesa.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1383855405;
	bh=z6hHXN0hIKqlyKbYihwTsIkBnPisWRJA05fY4J8e9Do=;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] 1961 TR3A for Sale $26,333
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

As the Realtors say:  Location, location, location.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Noyes-Smith" <robnoyes@cybermesa.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2013 10:14:40 AM
> Subject: [TR] 1961 TR3A for Sale $26,333
> We have to sell this restored TR3, affectionally named by my wife as
> Lemondrop. You can email or call me at 505-821-4369. Please only
> serious
> enquiries, Thank you, Rob.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 13:57:08 2013
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From: "Joseph Laurito" <trglory@verizon.net>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000b01ced12c$bb761f90$32625eb0$@rr.com>
	<8D09F642098E742-994-11193@webmail-d219.sysops.aol.com>
	<36EB5F79-7AE6-4F3F-8AD0-182297080FB2@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2013 15:24:44 -0500
Thread-index: Ac7brboyYToNmoIbTf2rwlKRuGKU3AASPvMw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John;

What they are trying to tell you is that their product is manufactured
exactly as original.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2013 7:19 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels

Hello List,

I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed what
looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.  The
seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and the
covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
Thanks in advance.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 14:19:32 2013
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  (PST)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 16:00:13 -0500
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My bright red TR4A panels from TRF fit that description though they're now
20 years old.   I have no complaints about the TRF panels.
They're indistinguishable from the construction of the originals as far as
I can tell.  Some of the repros have stiched seams which is not what the
originals were and they don't look as good IMHO.  All the panels I've seen
from the other vendors were also made of vinyl and fiberboard.

Ben.......






> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 19:19:16 -0500
> From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
> To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
> Message-ID: <36EB5F79-7AE6-4F3F-8AD0-182297080FB2@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hello List,
>
> I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
> TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed what
> looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.  The
> seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and
> the
> covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
> appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John DeLuca
>
> Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 21:00:12 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Gary Nafziger
  <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 lukewarm heater
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Drove it around for 15 minutes and still lukewarm heat from the
> heater.  Anyone have suggestions or more clear instructions on next move?  I
> do have the skirted thermostat.

Assuming you made at least one pull up past 3000 rpm or so, I really doubt that an air bubble is the problem.  The TR pump produces plenty of head at higher rpm, and should be able to blow bubbles through the heater with no problem at all.

Instead, I would be looking for anything that mechanically restricts the water flow, especially the return tube along the LH side of the engine.  I've seen several of them now that were almost entirely blocked with sediment.  Also check that the tap on the head is really open, and so on.  With the stock heater and ordinary heater hose, the hoses tend to kink on top of the heater where you can't see them.  I'm not sure how your Maradyne is configured, but it's something to think about.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  7 18:02:15 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2013 19:13:29 -0500
References: <mailman.16.1383850803.1685.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Cc: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Nov 7, 2013, at 2:00 PM, John DeLuca wrote:

>
> Hello List,
>
> I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
> TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed what
> looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.  The
> seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and
the
> covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
> appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John DeLuca

Original seams were heat welded. Backings were fiberboard. Coverings were
vinyl. The TRF ones are just like the originals. One of my cars came with an
interior that I believe might be a Moss kit and the stitched seams look very
strange.

Keith Stewart
keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 09:45:28 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Chapati and poppadum, Michelotti style
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This Herald (called a Gazel) has been for sale for ages. OK, it may have four
doors and a different 'look' but it'll also come with a 948cc low compression
engine developing about 38bhp and with just about enough power to pull the
skin off a rice pudding. Built by the Standard Motor Company of India and for
sale there too at a rather too high price for a Herald of any sort methinks.
Perhaps not a Triumph of which most people's dreams are
made? http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/car-advert/standard/gazel/1974/1489
60/

Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 05:43:09 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 07:38:23 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [TR] TR6 prices going up
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http://www.ladailypost.com/content/gift-triumph-tr6-keeps-giving
 

Well, maybe.

Dave

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 07:30:53 2013
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References: <b8f1a.98e1107.3fae353f@cs.com>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 08:10:19 -0600
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 prices going up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, I'd have thunk a livery more like Gegor Fiskens GT3-R would have
caught your eye.  Just imagine this on your TR6...
http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/fiskens-tartan-porsche-gets-on-track


On Fri, Nov 8, 2013 at 6:38 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> http://www.ladailypost.com/content/gift-triumph-tr6-keeps-giving
>
>
> Well, maybe.
>
> Dave
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 10:41:45 -0500
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A interior trim panels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded.  I beat the sale deadline and ordered the TRF
kit.

John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 7, 2013, at 7:13 PM, Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
wrote:
>
>
>> On Nov 7, 2013, at 2:00 PM, John DeLuca wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello List,
>>
>> I am just starting chassis reassembly on a body off restoration of my 1965
>> TR4A.  I won't need interior trim panels for a few months, but noticed
what
>> looks like a significant savings on a trim panel kit on sale from TRF.
The
>> seams are heat welded, the door panels are constructed of fiberboard and
the
>> covering is vinyl.  Not sure if these are big drawbacks or not.  I would
>> appreciate comments from anyone with experience/knowledge of this product.
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> John DeLuca
>
> Original seams were heat welded. Backings were fiberboard. Coverings were
vinyl. The TRF ones are just like the originals. One of my cars came with an
interior that I believe might be a Moss kit and the stitched seams look very
strange.
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart@execulink.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 13:11:32 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Truiumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <002201cedbee$b4395a40$1cac0ec0$@net>
	<002e01cedbfa$73125010$5936f030$@charter.net>
	<e528b5f0aa82.527d00f6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:18:34 -0500
Thread-Index: AQLzFEsbsItm7VQkmi0wUCS42j838AF1XczOAjbky+KXteNmUA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] FW: Brits - FW: SU HIF6 Carburettor needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers - From a member of the Connecticut Triumph Register. Contact Kevin
Craw directly at his e-mail address shown below if you are interested.

 

Alex Thomson

From: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of kevcraw@optonline.net
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 10:19 AM
To: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com
Cc: CTRIUMPH@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [CTR] FW: Brits - FW: SU HIF6 Carburettor needed

 

  

Hi All-  Anybody need a parts car for a TR 6 project?  I've just picked up a
'71. There's not an easily-salvageable body panel on it.  I couldn't see the
frame as the weeds were too high and it was raining, but based on the
ventilation in the floor pans, I'm just guessing there might be some
structural corrosion as well.  Hate to roll it over for scrap, which is why
I got it, thinking someone in the group(s) could use it.  Car's here in
Wilton, CT.  Please spread the word.  Gotta move it before the snow flies,
so the old line about 'no reasonable offer refused' certainly applies.
Thanks-Kevin Craw <kevcraw@optonline.net>




 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 17:30:13 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 19:22:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A overheating update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think I may have discovered something interesting while tracing down my
overheating TR4A problem. I did a calibration test of my temperature gauge and
discovered that if I immerse my temperature gauge sensor in 150 degree water,
the needle stops about 1/4" or less from the "H"? That can't be right?? Does
anybody have any suggestions for what a "centered" temperature gauge needle
would represent in degrees F? Or, should I shoot for 212 on the "H"?
Anyway, I think I am on to something here. The engine never really "sounded "
hot if you know what I mean, no leaking hoses, no wierd whistling sounds..
Man, I hope this is it??
Anyway, let me know what I should adjust the gauge to read.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 17:53:36 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 19:31:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Overheating update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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List,
I just came across a resistance to temperature table and I can use that to
adjust the movement. Just have to get some clip leads to connect the meter out
of the dash.
I think I am on to something here with my temperature problem.
Will post more once I get the gauge mapped out. Man, I hope this is the extent
of my temperature problem.
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 18:11:40 2013
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References: <AC4E8BA21F0D423396291F1C2F2B1BF4@DaveLaptop>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 19:44:22 -0500
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating update
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The TR3 temperature gauge was marked off with numbers. The first mark was
90 degrees, the center mark was 180 degreesn and the "hot" mark was 230
degrees. I would think those numbers would correspond to your gauge. 150
degrees should not even reach the middle of your gauge. Do you have a
working voltage stabalizer? It might be reading high if its getting full
battery voltage.

Greg G.
Oseo, MN




> I think I may have discovered something interesting while tracing down my
> overheating TR4A problem. I did a calibration test of my temperature gauge
> and
> discovered that if I immerse my temperature gauge sensor in 150 degree
> water,
> the needle stops about 1/4" or less from the "H"? That can't be right??
> Does
> anybody have any suggestions for what a "centered" temperature gauge
> needle
> would represent in degrees F? Or, should I shoot for 212 on the "H"?
> Anyway, I think I am on to something here. The engine never really
> "sounded "
> hot if you know what I mean, no leaking hoses, no wierd whistling sounds..
> Man, I hope this is it??
> Anyway, let me know what I should adjust the gauge to read.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 18:21:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 17:56:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On a TR3A the middle of the gauge was 1850.

On a TR4 it was 700C which is 1580 but I have long thought that was wrong,
possibly someone doing the math and getting the parens in the wrong place
--  5/9 * (185 - 32) = 85 whereas (5/9 * 185) - 32 = 70.  The first
equation is correct of course.

Of course, the problem could be in the sender rather than the gauge --
there were several similar looking but quite different senders available.

Geo




On Fri, Nov 8, 2013 at 5:22 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I think I may have discovered something interesting while tracing down my
> overheating TR4A problem. I did a calibration test of my temperature gauge
> and
> discovered that if I immerse my temperature gauge sensor in 150 degree
> water,
> the needle stops about 1/4" or less from the "H"? That can't be right??
> Does
> anybody have any suggestions for what a "centered" temperature gauge needle
> would represent in degrees F? Or, should I shoot for 212 on the "H"?
> Anyway, I think I am on to something here. The engine never really
> "sounded "
> hot if you know what I mean, no leaking hoses, no wierd whistling sounds..
> Man, I hope this is it??
> Anyway, let me know what I should adjust the gauge to read.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 18:22:44 2013
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Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 17:58:00 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Overheating update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Nov 8, 2013 at 5:31 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

> I just came across a resistance to temperature table and I can use that to
> adjust the movement...


Of course with an ohmmeter you can also use those numbers to test the
sender.  Wouldn't want you to try to calibrate a  gauge to compensate for a
wrong or wonky sender.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 19:39:37 2013
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Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2013 2:17:10 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating update
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Just to echo what others have said, there is no way that 150F should show past mid-scale.

> On a TR4 it was 700C which is 1580 but I have long thought that was wrong,

I agree, they certainly don't seem to read that way.  To complicate the issue, some early TR4 came with a gauge marked in Fahrenheit, which ISTR had 180F marked in the center.

> Of course, the problem could be in the sender rather than the gauge --
> there were several similar looking but quite different senders available.

There were even different senders for the TR4, for the "flat glass" vs "curved glass" instruments.
And to make the situation even worse, most vendors today supply the same sender for all situations.  This has been a particular problem for the Stag community, as the "one size fits all" sender makes the original Stag gauge read quite high.

The good news is that the later gauges are externally adjustable, so it should be possible to calibrate the gauge against the sender you have.  Kind of a tedious process, and you'll need to fabricate the tool to move the adjustments but doable.  Here's a photo of my tool (which started as a 1/4-28 bolt and was a practice exercise on the lathe).
http://goo.gl/ihDJEN

Randall

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2013 21:20:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Another update on my TR4A temp. gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,
I removed the temperature sending unit and got myself a plastic cup full of
water, my digital thermometer and my ohm meter,, oh, and the kitchen
microwave..
I ran some temperature vs. resistance readings below;

Temperature (F)        Resistance in ohms
120                             197
130                             164
140                             135
150                             112
160                               95
170                               84
180                               74
190                               59
200                               52

I want to check out the voltage stabilizer but since the fuel gauge seems to
be working OK that should be fine.

Tomorrow I should get this working.
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  8 20:09:53 2013
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To: dconnitt@fuse.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A overheating update
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Have you verified that your voltage stabilizer is working?  This can be
verified quickly with a test light or voltmeter.  Connect the voltmeter or
light to the temp sender wire and see if the voltage is flickering.  If it is
steady your stabilizer has failed and your gauges will read high.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>


I think I may have discovered something interesting while tracing down my
overheating TR4A problem. I did a calibration test of my temperature gauge
and
discovered that if I immerse my temperature gauge sensor in 150 degree water,
the needle stops about 1/4" or less from the "H"? That can't be right??

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  9 14:42:11 2013
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2013 16:39:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Overheating problem conclusion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!
Last night I had removed the temperature sensor and basically profiled the
thing using my digital thermometer, my ohm meter, my wife's microwave (thanks
honey) and a plastic cup of water. I started at just under boiling out of the
microwave which was 205 F, then recording the resistance at 200, 190, 180...
down to 120 degrees.
This morning I replaced the sensor, started the engine and with my trusty
spreadsheet handy, I just connected my ohm meter to the sensor and watched.
As the engine warmed up, the resistance decreased. I have a 180 degree
thermostat and that was my first trip point. Sure enough, at about 190 the top
of the radiator was getting hot so I knew that at least the thermostat was
working. The resistance started to stabilize and still reduced but much slower
as now water was circulating. Then as if my magic, the thermostatic switch in
the down tube cycled on! I could watch the resistance go back up as the fan
cooled the water and the fan turned off. I waited a bit longer just to make
sure the fan was cycling on and off and it works prefect.
So, now I have to recalibrate my temperature gauge to my temperature sensor
and I should be OK.
The radiator I have installed has an additional row of tubes which helps too.
Thanks to all for your suggestions.
Regards,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 06:31:12 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Manuals Online
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I have been trying to find a manual for my 1952 Triumph Renown. I have a
greater chance of a Sasquatch sighting than finding a Renown manual. Anyway, I
found this website where a guy has scanned manuals and printed out one for the
Renown. They have free TR3 manuals too.

   
 http://www.google.de/imgres?hl=de&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbnid=J7LrbCu5ku
90iM:&imgrefurl=http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm&docid=lEC-i_
mPwHISNM&imgurl=http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/images/WiringDiagrams/triumph%2
0roadster%201948-1949.jpg&w=1519&h=1815&ei=llNYUpq0Auy10wXji4HYAw&zoom=1&iact
=hc&vpx=4&vpy=175&dur=4200&hovh=245&hovw=205&tx=64&ty=150&page=1&tbnh=151&tbn
w=126&start=0&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:80

     Probably old news to
listers.
     If anyone has any Renown parts or stories, let me know. 

   
 Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 08:01:36 2013
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 10:01:23 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1384093872.83129.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Manuals Online
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

This is news to me.

Save the link.

Thanks.

Bob

On 11/10/2013 09:31 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       I have been trying to find a manual for my 1952 Triumph Renown. I have a
> greater chance of a Sasquatch sighting than finding a Renown manual. Anyway, I
> found this website where a guy has scanned manuals and printed out one for the
> Renown. They have free TR3 manuals too.
>
>     
>   http://www.google.de/imgres?hl=de&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbnid=J7LrbCu5ku
> 90iM:&imgrefurl=http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm&docid=lEC-i_
> mPwHISNM&imgurl=http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/images/WiringDiagrams/triumph%2
> 0roadster%201948-1949.jpg&w=1519&h=1815&ei=llNYUpq0Auy10wXji4HYAw&zoom=1&iact
> =hc&vpx=4&vpy=175&dur=4200&hovh=245&hovw=205&tx=64&ty=150&page=1&tbnh=151&tbn
> w=126&start=0&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:80
>
>       Probably old news to
> listers.
>       If anyone has any Renown parts or stories, let me know.
>
>     
>   Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 07:26:01 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     My TR3 master cylinder reservoir cap has always been pretty knackered. It
looks like Vise-grips have always been used to open it. I have looked at the
big 3 for replacement caps. Moss offers a plastic cap replacement .
     I was
looking on Australian Ebay for Triumph Renown parts (mechanically similar to
Standard Vanguard series 1 parts...) and ran across new caps for reasonable
prices. I ordered one and it is the exact replacement.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-FILLER-CAP-STANDARD-VANGUAR
D-6-ENSIGN-/331051534715?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1435
897b&_uhb=1


     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 19:48:39 2013
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From: "ronnie babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>
To: "triumphs2 TRlist " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 20:07:38 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7eemenqh6NYxezQ3GOf6oZEV19zg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Stuck Clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Several months ago during several weeks if rain and high humidity. I had the
opportunity to drive the 3 to a football game. I came home parked the car.
Later I jumped in the 3 to take a drive and was unable to for the disc was
rusted to the flywheel. Today I thought I would take a look at it. Jacked up
the car. Remover. The inspection plate and discovered I had wasted my time.
I had hoped to free it by sliding a putty knife between the too. Only to
discover there is nothing to see behind the plate. So after reading all the
recent posting. I decided to pull the car using my Yukon. In second gear
with the ignition on it immediately broke loose.  However it was making the
most frighting squeal of which sounded as if it were coming from the Engine
I quickly cut it off. Starting it up again wither clutch depressed it would
go away. My initial thought was I has spun a bearing. Every time the clutch
was depressed the squeal went away. I decided I would drive it around the
block, as I did the sound diminished. All of a sudden it made one last I
pitch squeal with a pop and it went silent. No more squeal. Clutch worked as
designed. All was quiet. Took her to the big hill near my house and up she
pulled just fine. It was very strange how the sound ended. 

Ronnie Babbitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 20:45:04 2013
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References: <1384097161.12013.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>
Received: from 68.237.136.235 by webmail-m217.sysops.aol.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 21:35:06 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

They're a bit more expensive, but also readily available, at Pegasus Racing:

Girling small reservoir cylinder cap

<https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1103> if the above
link doesn't work.





--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>


     My TR3 master cylinder reservoir cap has always been pretty knackered.
It
looks like Vise-grips have always been used to open it. I have looked at the
big 3 for replacement caps. Moss offers a plastic cap replacement .
     I was
looking on Australian Ebay for Triumph Renown parts (mechanically similar to
Standard Vanguard series 1 parts...) and ran across new caps for reasonable
prices. I ordered one and it is the exact replacement.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-FILLER-CAP-STANDARD-VANGUAR
D-6-ENSIGN-/331051534715?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1435
897b&_uhb=1

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 21:45:13 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs2 TRlist '" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 19:04:36 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7eemenqh6NYxezQ3GOf6oZEV19zgAEDNIg
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck Clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Check your clutch adjustment; I'll bet it's a bit tight.

And you're going to need a new throw-out bearing soon.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 23:01:48 2013
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Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 20:13:18 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald@aol.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     That's the same cap alright. I never imagined anyone else having it
except the standard Brit car guys.

     Bill in Tehachapi
________________________________
 From: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald@aol.com>
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net; triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, November 10,
2013 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
 


They're a bit more
expensive, but also readily available, at Pegasus Racing:

Girling small
reservoir cylinder cap
<https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1103> if the above
link doesn't work.
 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man:
Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald
engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus
(22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6
(Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>


My TR3
master cylinder reservoir cap has always been pretty knackered. It
looks like
Vise-grips have always been used to open it. I have looked at the
big 3 for
replacement caps. Moss offers a plastic cap replacement . I was
looking on
Australian Ebay for Triumph Renown parts (mechanically similar to
Standard
Vanguard series 1 parts...) and ran across new caps for reasonable
prices. I
ordered one and it is the exact replacement.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-FILLER-CAP-STANDARD-VANGUAR
D-6-ENSIGN-/331051534715?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1435
897b&_uhb=1

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 10 23:08:36 2013
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References: <000a01cede7a$6a045bd0$3e0d1370$@cox.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 22:40:41 -0600
To: ronnie babbitt <rbtr3a@cox.net>
Cc: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck Clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Strange little cars we own, eh Ronnie.

I didn't have the noise but all was perfect, as you experienced, after I got
mine unstuck last week.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:07 PM, "ronnie babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Several months ago during several weeks if rain and high humidity. I had
the
> opportunity to drive the 3 to a football game. I came home parked the car.
> Later I jumped in the 3 to take a drive and was unable to for the disc was
> rusted to the flywheel. Today I thought I would take a look at it. Jacked
up
> the car. Remover. The inspection plate and discovered I had wasted my time.
> I had hoped to free it by sliding a putty knife between the too. Only to
> discover there is nothing to see behind the plate. So after reading all the
> recent posting. I decided to pull the car using my Yukon. In second gear
> with the ignition on it immediately broke loose.  However it was making the
> most frighting squeal of which sounded as if it were coming from the Engine
> I quickly cut it off. Starting it up again wither clutch depressed it would
> go away. My initial thought was I has spun a bearing. Every time the clutch
> was depressed the squeal went away. I decided I would drive it around the
> block, as I did the sound diminished. All of a sudden it made one last I
> pitch squeal with a pop and it went silent. No more squeal. Clutch worked
as
> designed. All was quiet. Took her to the big hill near my house and up she
> pulled just fine. It was very strange how the sound ended.
>
> Ronnie Babbitt
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 02:32:55 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "ronnie babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>, "triumphs2 TRlist "
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01cede7a$6a045bd0$3e0d1370$@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 22:09:38 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck Clutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ronnie,

My first thought was pilot bearing or release bearing, but would think they 
would more likely squeal with the clutch disengaged than engaged, right?

Maybe the starter motor pinion got stuck on the ring gear then came loose?

Greg Lemon 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 02:35:40 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2013 22:50:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Seatbelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I currently have adjustable (non inertia real) three point seat belts on my
TR250.  I don't like them, they slip off me when on, and I have to fish them
out from behind/under the seat and top boot when I want to use them.  I am
thinking the kind with a stalk and inertia reel might be both easier to put on
and keep on, but I don't really want to spring for a set unless there is some
appreciable improvement, any thoughts or experience with seat belt installs in
the TR4-6 cars appreciated.  Have also thought about going with a simple lap
belt, but really like the extra protection of the three point belt.

Any experience and input welcome.

Greg  Lemon
TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 07:24:15 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 08:18:21 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1384175901;
	bh=RauNoa7zFnZ5f6ZBiWQtqQpXRaJaWgk8nDfrw3J0OuY=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] Seatbelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Moss has a set of aftermarket inertia reel belts that I fitted on my early 
TR6 which was originally equipped with fixed three point belts.  There is a 
guide loop that mounts in the weld nut where your current shoulder belt is 
attached.  You will have to drill a hole for the reel, however.  It mounts 
directly beneath the loop.  I used the same sized hardware (7/16 or 1/2 inch 
bolts) with a lock washer, a standard grade 8 flat washer, a larger flat 
washer and a LARGE fender washer, all to prevent pull-through should the event 
arise.

An alternate approach is to find some late model TR6 belts (inertia reel) 
and get them rewebbed.  Same approach other wise.

Dave
71 TR6

In a message dated 11/11/2013 3:35:31 AM Central Standard Time, 
glemon@neb.rr.com writes: 
> I currently have adjustable (non inertia real) three point seat belts on 
> my
> TR250.  I don't like them, they slip off me when on, and I have to fish 
> them
> out from behind/under the seat and top boot when I want to use them.  I am
> thinking the kind with a stalk and inertia reel might be both easier to 
> put on
> and keep on, but I don't really want to spring for a set unless there is 
> some
> appreciable improvement, any thoughts or experience with seat belt 
> installs in
> the TR4-6 cars appreciated.  Have also thought about going with a simple 
> lap
> belt, but really like the extra protection of the three point belt.
> 
> Any experience and input welcome.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 09:31:39 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Note that Girling hydraulic fluid reservoir cap (which is available from a
number of sources, if one hunts) doesn't contain the sealing gasket.  That
bit seems to be sold separately.


On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 10:13 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>wrote:

>      That's the same cap alright. I never imagined anyone else having it
> except the standard Brit car guys.
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
> ________________________________
>  From: Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald@aol.com>
> To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, November 10,
> 2013 6:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
>
>
>
> They're a bit more
> expensive, but also readily available, at Pegasus Racing:
>
> Girling small
> reservoir cylinder cap
> <https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1103> if the
> above
> link doesn't work.
>
>
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man:
> Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald
> engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus
> (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6
> (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
>
>
> My TR3
> master cylinder reservoir cap has always been pretty knackered. It
> looks like
> Vise-grips have always been used to open it. I have looked at the
> big 3 for
> replacement caps. Moss offers a plastic cap replacement . I was
> looking on
> Australian Ebay for Triumph Renown parts (mechanically similar to
> Standard
> Vanguard series 1 parts...) and ran across new caps for reasonable
> prices. I
> ordered one and it is the exact replacement.
>
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-FILLER-CAP-STANDARD-VANGUAR
>
> D-6-ENSIGN-/331051534715?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1435
> 897b&_uhb=1
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 09:02:29 -0800
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Ball Cap Patch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been trying to find a TR3 ball cap patch, Triumph book but in Red and
Black, I find all three bbiggiesb have Blue and White b& is this some
sort of color discrimination?


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 11:13:54 -0600
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: "TR3/6" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Cap Patch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The TR Register Shop in the UK offers a red/black open book logo that
can be embroidered on many items, ball caps included as far as I can
tell.
http://www.tr-registershop.co.uk/product-logos-238-p.asp

On 11/11/13, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
> I have been trying to find a TR3 ball cap patch, Triumph book but in Red
> and
> Black, I find all three b biggiesb  have Blue and White b& is this some
> sort of color discrimination?
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "tedtsimx@bright.net"<tedtsimx@bright.net>
To: "William Pugh"<anabil007@comcast.net>,
  TR3/6<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 12:21:11 -0500
References: <AC69FAB7-AC8D-4193-B612-DB9A96B1718C@comcast.net>
	refid=str=0001.0A020202.528111F7.00FB, ss=1, re=0.000, recu=0.000,
	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0, 
	ip=0.0.0.0, so=2011-09-13 19:33:14, dmn=2013-03-21 17:37:32,
	mode=single engine
Subject: Re: [TR] Ball Cap Patch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We can dupply this. Several styles and colors of caps to choose frm.  Ted
Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2013 17:02:29 GMT+00:00
Subject: [TR] Ball Cap Patch

I have been trying to find a TR3 ball cap patch, Triumph book but in Red and
Black, I find all three bbiggiesb have Blue and White b& is this some
sort of color discrimination?


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 11:53:29 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 11:52:36 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 MC Reservoir Cap
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 8:31 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> Note that Girling hydraulic fluid reservoir cap (which is available from a
> number of sources, if one hunts) doesn't contain the sealing gasket.  That
> bit seems to be sold separately.



Rather than the stock style gasket I have been using this (from the Help!
section of the FLAPS):

http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/Ahwahnee18/media/TR3/BrakeReservoirGasket.jpg.html?sort=9&o=22

http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/Ahwahnee18/media/TR3/BrakeReservoirGasket2.jpg.html?sort=9&o=23

I was getting some fluid out of the vent hole with the stock gasket in
place -- not an issue with this one.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 17:58:19 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 18:48:37 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Dizzy Drive Gear End Float
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

Although I get the concept behind the dizzy drive gear end float, I can't find
any information on why it is important to have it just right.
What happens if it is too small and the gear cannot rise enough?  Too large
and the gear rises too high?

I've recently gone through an effort to fine tune the engine, and still it has
about a 100 rpm idling variance.
After working the fuel and vacuum "angles", my focus is now on the ignition
system.  I've tried two different dizzys with the same result.
I'm wondering if the float might not be correct, causing enough vertical
variance to create a timing issue.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 18:29:45 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 20:23:11 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7fRb81kw4hyFI3S02Slh2aRtJ5Fg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:

What magic do I need to use to remove and refit new steering column bushes
for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out the rubber round tabs that press
into the column but don't want to mess this up.  I have the steering column
completely out of the car.  The weather has cooled down here in Florida and
a great time to work on the car.  

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 18:44:36 2013
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Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 18:42:48 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim --

Of course you'll be better off hearing from someone who has actually done
this, but FWIW I've always heard that common practice is to slice that
rubber 'button' off with an Xacto and just push the old bushes further into
the column as you push the new ones home.

Geo


On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 6:23 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> List:
>
> What magic do I need to use to remove and refit new steering column bushes
> for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out the rubber round tabs that press
> into the column but don't want to mess this up.  I have the steering column
> completely out of the car.  The weather has cooled down here in Florida and
> a great time to work on the car.
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <009c01cedf45$c1ea2c50$45be84f0$@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFFeeQ1=SSqLP3v4_uNf9TkZQaf83DO+MhUin3Rz4VJfw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 20:46:28 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That sounds like it would work.  Any other thoughts from the list?  Thanks,
Jim

 

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 8:43 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question

 

Jim --

 

Of course you'll be better off hearing from someone who has actually done
this, but FWIW I've always heard that common practice is to slice that
rubber 'button' off with an Xacto and just push the old bushes further into
the column as you push the new ones home.

 

Geo

 

On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 6:23 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

List:

What magic do I need to use to remove and refit new steering column bushes
for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out the rubber round tabs that press
into the column but don't want to mess this up.  I have the steering column
completely out of the car.  The weather has cooled down here in Florida and
a great time to work on the car.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
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To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I used threaded rod and washers to remove and install the bushes.  A little
lubrication (silicone spray, soapy water) helps.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 22:00:45 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'ronnie babbitt'" <rbtr3a@cox.net>, "'triumphs2 TRlist '"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000a01cede7a$6a045bd0$3e0d1370$@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 22:57:17 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7eemenqh6NYxezQ3GOf6oZEV19zgA55kzg
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck Clutch-Preventitive Measure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thinking about this thread and remembered that the ever thoughtful Kubota
Tractor people included a small block of wood in my tool kit to block the
clutch in the disengaged position during storage.  So, I thought this might
be a good idea for the TR3B that is chassis-complete and waiting months for
the body work to be ready.  I cut a piece of wood and blocked the clutch
open, maybe a good thing for others who need to store their LBCs for the
winter. 

Just a thought,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ronnie babbitt
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 7:08 PM
To: triumphs2 TRlist 
Subject: [TR] Stuck Clutch

Several months ago during several weeks if rain and high humidity. I had the
opportunity to drive the 3 to a football game. I came home parked the car.
Later I jumped in the 3 to take a drive and was unable to for the disc was
rusted to the flywheel. Today I thought I would take a look at it. Jacked up
the car. Remover. The inspection plate and discovered I had wasted my time.
I had hoped to free it by sliding a putty knife between the too. Only to
discover there is nothing to see behind the plate. So after reading all the
recent posting. I decided to pull the car using my Yukon. In second gear
with the ignition on it immediately broke loose.  However it was making the
most frighting squeal of which sounded as if it were coming from the Engine
I quickly cut it off. Starting it up again wither clutch depressed it would
go away. My initial thought was I has spun a bearing. Every time the clutch
was depressed the squeal went away. I decided I would drive it around the
block, as I did the sound diminished. All of a sudden it made one last I
pitch squeal with a pop and it went silent. No more squeal. Clutch worked as
designed. All was quiet. Took her to the big hill near my house and up she
pulled just fine. It was very strange how the sound ended. 

Ronnie Babbitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 11 22:52:32 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 21:51:50 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7fQjrw5YkJmvPFTZirgsK8lu2WLQAKDZQg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Dizzy Drive Gear End Float
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> What happens if it is too small and the gear cannot rise 
> enough?  

Apparently in practice, it usually just wears quickly until there is "enough".  But in theory it could bind and tear things up.

> Too large
> and the gear rises too high?

Again in theory, affecting ignition timing.  But the thrust from the camshaft tries to force the gear downwards, and I assume the
force to turn the oil pump would keep it from bouncing around much even if it did manage to hit a resonant frequency.

> I'm wondering if the float might not be correct, causing 
> enough vertical
> variance to create a timing issue.

Seems unlikely to me; but if so, you should be able to see the timing change with a timing light.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 06:28:23 2013
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 08:21:52 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <44A31204E8C84D59B51049DA6A45F3F4@livingroompc>
Subject: Re: [TR] Seatbelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greg,

I got a new set from TRF for my 72 6. The originals just didnt work 
anymore and they were faded. The replacements from TRF fit just fine 
using the original hardware.

But they dont have the electrical attachments and the original parkers 
are useless since the new belt attachments are different. But they stay 
snug.

Bob

On 11/10/2013 11:50 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I currently have adjustable (non inertia real) three point seat belts on my
> TR250.  I don't like them, they slip off me when on, and I have to fish them
> out from behind/under the seat and top boot when I want to use them.  I am
> thinking the kind with a stalk and inertia reel might be both easier to put on
> and keep on, but I don't really want to spring for a set unless there is some
> appreciable improvement, any thoughts or experience with seat belt installs in
> the TR4-6 cars appreciated.  Have also thought about going with a simple lap
> belt, but really like the extra protection of the three point belt.
>
> Any experience and input welcome.
>
> Greg  Lemon
> TR250

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 07:05:37 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <009c01cedf45$c1ea2c50$45be84f0$@gmail.com><CANzE1bFFeeQ1=SSqLP3v4_uNf9TkZQaf83DO+MhUin3Rz4VJfw@mail.gmail.com><00b801cedf49$023557a0$06a006e0$@gmail.com>
	<CAE012B1-2A63-40A0-993E-E70E75791898@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 08:01:56 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

are you guys talking about the cross shaped rubber piece in the engine 
compartment?  or is there another bush I'm not aware of?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 07:31:41 2013
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 06:24:21 -0800
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To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Nov 12, 2013, at 6:01 AM, Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> are you guys talking about the cross shaped rubber piece in the engine
compartment?  or is there another bush I'm not aware of?

Hi Dave,

I believe we are talking about the bushings inside the steering column.  Stock
ones are rubber, steel and some kind of plastic that support the inner shaft
inside the housing.

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:24:29 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7furEUBcuZVGVyRz+TueMNaLXwtw==
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Subject: [TR] AMCO sidescreens
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:  this past weekend I found a small-mouth TR3 in a barn about 40 miles
from here - filled with everything the guy thought was necessary for a
restoration back in 1995.  Lots of boxes from the Roadster Factory, Moss and
Victoria British - exciting !

 

The good news (since I am a big fan of these) is that I found a set of Amco
sidescreens in the trunk. The not so good news is that the rubber around the
outside is torn.  Does anyone know of a source for this?  Or someone who
could help restore the sidescreens?

 

Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <00b801cedfbb$554a3c90$ffdeb5b0$@uprichard.net>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:38:27 -0600
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO sidescreens
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow, you do seem to find all the lost treasures.

Do you have a good glass shop nearby?  Binswanger?  Might take a sample of the
rubber to them.

I would first call TRF to see if they could do it.

Bill
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:
>
> List:  this past weekend I found a small-mouth TR3 in a barn about 40 miles
> from here - filled with everything the guy thought was necessary for a
> restoration back in 1995.  Lots of boxes from the Roadster Factory, Moss
and
> Victoria British - exciting !
>
>
>
> The good news (since I am a big fan of these) is that I found a set of Amco
> sidescreens in the trunk. The not so good news is that the rubber around
the
> outside is torn.  Does anyone know of a source for this?  Or someone who
> could help restore the sidescreens?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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References: <00b801cedfbb$554a3c90$ffdeb5b0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:41:19 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO sidescreens
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There was someone on the British Car Forum (years ago) who was looking for
that rubber and, IIRC found it.  I will do a search and see if something
turns up.

Geo



On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net>wrote:

> List:  this past weekend I found a small-mouth TR3 in a barn about 40 miles
> from here - filled with everything the guy thought was necessary for a
> restoration back in 1995.  Lots of boxes from the Roadster Factory, Moss
> and
> Victoria British - exciting !
>
>
>
> The good news (since I am a big fan of these) is that I found a set of Amco
> sidescreens in the trunk. The not so good news is that the rubber around
> the
> outside is torn.  Does anyone know of a source for this?  Or someone who
> could help restore the sidescreens?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 11:06:02 2013
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	<CANzE1bGub1NM7Ke8ZTqz6HdL5O62W=UXzGzA4wFDygCUqTNK3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:43:55 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO sidescreens
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well that seemed easy.

The thread:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?87284-TR3A-sidescreen-vinyl-seal&highlight=amco+side+curtain+rubber

Where he got some:

http://www.clarkespares.com/

Excerpt:

*"I called them, told the guy what I needed (seal strip for TR3A AMCO
frame), and received the roll of seal within a week."*

Geo



On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

> There was someone on the British Car Forum (years ago) who was looking for
> that rubber and, IIRC found it.  I will do a search and see if something
> turns up.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Andrew Uprichard <
> auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:
>
>> List:  this past weekend I found a small-mouth TR3 in a barn about 40
>> miles
>> from here - filled with everything the guy thought was necessary for a
>> restoration back in 1995.  Lots of boxes from the Roadster Factory, Moss
>> and
>> Victoria British - exciting !
>>
>>
>>
>> The good news (since I am a big fan of these) is that I found a set of
>> Amco
>> sidescreens in the trunk. The not so good news is that the rubber around
>> the
>> outside is torn.  Does anyone know of a source for this?  Or someone who
>> could help restore the sidescreens?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 12:18:31 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
References: <00b801cedfbb$554a3c90$ffdeb5b0$@uprichard.net>
	<CANzE1bGub1NM7Ke8ZTqz6HdL5O62W=UXzGzA4wFDygCUqTNK3Q@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 14:02:58 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIKkLGgse6IIwY4W4XdvqHeaGR7HgELvq+SAogwD4aZjfH68A==
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO sidescreens
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow, George - you are the man !  And thanks also to everyone else who
replied.

 

This car has over $10,000 in receipts.  I guess I should go buy a lottery
ticket this week...........

 

Andrew

 

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:44 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] AMCO sidescreens

 

Well that seemed easy.

 

The thread:

 

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?87284-TR3A-sidescreen-viny
l-seal
<http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?87284-TR3A-sidescreen-vin
yl-seal&highlight=amco+side+curtain+rubber>
&highlight=amco+side+curtain+rubber

 

Where he got some:

 

http://www.clarkespares.com/

 

Excerpt:

 

"I called them, told the guy what I needed (seal strip for TR3A AMCO frame),
and received the roll of seal within a week."

 

Geo

 

 

On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 10:41 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:

There was someone on the British Car Forum (years ago) who was looking for
that rubber and, IIRC found it.  I will do a search and see if something
turns up.

 

Geo

 

 

On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:24 AM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

List:  this past weekend I found a small-mouth TR3 in a barn about 40 miles
from here - filled with everything the guy thought was necessary for a
restoration back in 1995.  Lots of boxes from the Roadster Factory, Moss and
Victoria British - exciting !



The good news (since I am a big fan of these) is that I found a set of Amco
sidescreens in the trunk. The not so good news is that the rubber around the
outside is torn.  Does anyone know of a source for this?  Or someone who
could help restore the sidescreens?



Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 12 21:00:04 2013
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From: CarlSereda@aol.com
Full-name: CarlSereda
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 22:57:16 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1384315036;
	bh=VHujfGMftpc/QqiNdgkJi0Rq0OHVKzJ9RrfbWGC1tcs=;
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tr\R4 steering bushes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Jim,
You can exacto blade the rubber nubs and hammer with a stick to remove old  
steering column bushes.. I bought four TRF steering column bushes. Razored 
off  the nubs of first new pair and pushed them deeper in the tube (from top 
and  bottom) with the second new pair with their nubs intact. I felt the  
original setup was not the most robust so wanted to double bushes up (4). It 
now  seems very precise. The steel shaft was a little worn too so the  
secondary bushes riding on new metal really snugged things up. When those start  
to wear, the secondary bushes that are in the original position, will  come 
into play making for much longer lasting setup.
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
 

List:

What magic do I need to use to remove and refit  new steering column bushes
for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out  the rubber round tabs that press
into the column but don't want to mess  this up.  I have the steering column
completely out of the car.   The weather has cooled down here in Florida and
a great time to work on the  car.

Jim Henningsen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 13 02:56:32 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <009c01cedf45$c1ea2c50$45be84f0$@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 07:22:55 -0500
	9aATCqYqojAEP+IMNQRvBPcDjIo4wrUArg0zod6HltXRvcGUAU
	EuvW2kw+dID1a1CU0IplKgGszPSddCt8ad49D+X1W1nBVawOfr
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Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Drop Art Lipp (lipp04@yahoo.com) an email and ask him if his TR6 bushing kit 
also fits the TR4. With his kit there's no need to remove the old bushings 
and his Delrin replacement bushings "never" wear out. You can see how it all 
goes together here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 8:23 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question

List:

What magic do I need to use to remove and refit new steering column bushes
for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out the rubber round tabs that press
into the column but don't want to mess this up.  I have the steering column
completely out of the car.  The weather has cooled down here in Florida and
a great time to work on the car.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 13 19:36:31 2013
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References: <89ef5.563bbba5.3fb4529c@aol.com>
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 21:10:47 -0500
To: "CarlSereda@aol.com" <CarlSereda@aol.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr\R4 steering bushes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl and others:
Thanks for the tips. I will see how I do this weekend.
Jim Henningsen

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 12, 2013, at 10:57 PM, CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:

> Hi Jim,
> You can exacto blade the rubber nubs and hammer with a stick to remove old
> steering column bushes.. I bought four TRF steering column bushes. Razored
> off  the nubs of first new pair and pushed them deeper in the tube (from top
> and  bottom) with the second new pair with their nubs intact. I felt the
> original setup was not the most robust so wanted to double bushes up (4). It
> now  seems very precise. The steel shaft was a little worn too so the
> secondary bushes riding on new metal really snugged things up. When those
start
> to wear, the secondary bushes that are in the original position, will  come
> into play making for much longer lasting setup.
> Good luck,
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
>
>
> List:
>
> What magic do I need to use to remove and refit  new steering column bushes
> for my TR4.  I see that I could drill out  the rubber round tabs that press
> into the column but don't want to mess  this up.  I have the steering
column
> completely out of the car.   The weather has cooled down here in Florida
and
> a great time to work on the  car.
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 13 20:28:52 2013
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	<2D5B49091DF1400383D082F6DE40A039@BobDell>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 22:20:06 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Column Rebush Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 to Bob

Sent an email to Art for bushings for my German import TR4 w/locking
steering column.   He had never seen one of those before but hooked me
up in a matter of days.

Very responsive and I'm happy with the ease of installation (I have no
idea how to separate the steering shaft from the column). My install
was with the column and steering shaft still in the car.  The pvc pipe
drift makes install very easy.

After I got the kit in the mail, they were installed in 15 mins and I
no longer have the horn wailing when I go through the twisty turnies.

Chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 14 18:37:35 2013
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Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2013 17:31:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] heater hose connections
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Which way does the water run through the heater on the tr-3?  I have the input
hose to the heater coming from the water valve on the back right side of the
block  The output hose from the heater coming into the engine bay on the left
side, into the steel pipe which goes up to the water pump.

Is this correct or
should the water be circulating the other direction?

thanks
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 02:21:18 2013
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From: "John McMaster" <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:20:21 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac7h4+iU6MaLFH4XTluLbjevlN0rUA==
Subject: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry to trouble you all but a few years back (quite a few in fact) someone
on the list provided an excel spreadsheet showing MPH/KPH per RPM for a
given (specified) gear ratio and tyre size.



Due to a catastrophic hard drive failure I've lost it and would really like
to re-build my data for the project V6 I'm building.



If anyone has a copy and they wouldn't mind sharing, could they please email
it to me?



Thanks heaps,



John Mc

"Fast is First"

71 TR6 PI

76 Dolomite 1850

76 Dolomite Sprint V6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 05:07:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 05:03:22 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <B9B064A0069F47E8B203FD8C7053EC11@mcmasterb0b98c>
Subject: Re: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 11/15/13, 2:20 AM, John McMaster wrote:
> Sorry to trouble you all but a few years back (quite a few in fact) someone
> on the list provided an excel spreadsheet showing MPH/KPH per RPM for a
> given (specified) gear ratio and tyre size.
No spreadsheet but an online calculator:

www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html

TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 07:46:41 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1384479110.36380.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:44:38 -0500
Thread-Index: AQH7+3od0+hJDU77l6AtfsV26GOtGZnMK0lg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] heater hose connections
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Wow - I didn't know there was an input and output.  I guess I never thought
about it.....

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 8:32 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] heater hose connections

Which way does the water run through the heater on the tr-3?  I have the
input hose to the heater coming from the water valve on the back right side
of the block  The output hose from the heater coming into the engine bay on
the left side, into the steel pipe which goes up to the water pump.

Is this correct or
should the water be circulating the other direction?

thanks
gary n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 08:16:15 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 10:14:46 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7iFWoAIS9VwUjgQDeKHPEkRyrP1Q==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do you
use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on a TR4
motor?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL 

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 08:20:45 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:19:40 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1384528780;
	bh=uj01iZt9zYx1zZO9ZRxmoXeMUU36CbUIN6x0hizrW8Y=;
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Subject: [TR] Looking for TR8 valve covers....
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

Looking to borrow, or buy, if necessary.

For development of molds for reusable silicone valve cover gaskets.

Valve covers will be returned and a pair of new silicon gaskets will be
provided.

We have most molds for Triumphs, including the Stag, but are missing the TR8
and would like to complete the line.

Thanks,

Gasketinnovations.com

N197tr4@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 08:30:24 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:29:17 -0600
References: <006901cee215$6cd8ef30$468acd90$@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes.  I used a spray-on sealant purchased at a local parts shop.

On Nov 15, 2013, at 9:14 AM, James Henningsen wrote:

> Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do you
> use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on a TR4
> motor?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <prEp1m0170NyJgq01rEq4c>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 07:30:08 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I use Copper Sealant - either "coppa seal" spray or "copper coat gasket
compound" brush on by K&W - I have never blown a TR3/4 head gasket and have
put heads on 5 of them.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 7:15 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Head Question

Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do you
use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on a TR4
motor?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL 

62 TR4

75 TR6

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 09:03:10 2013
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 08:01:25 -0800
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Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question - TR6
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Along the lines of the previous inquiry - I'm putting my TR6 head back on
this AM - does it require a sealant on the gasket?


Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 16:58:07 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Factory used a normal lightweight general purpose grease lightly smeared with
a finger on the block face, both sides of the gasket and the underside of the
head.


Jonmac

From: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
>To:
triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Friday, 15 November 2013, 15:14
>Subject: [TR]
Head Question
>
>
>Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than
sorry.  Do you
>use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head
gasket on a TR4
>motor?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Henningsen
>
>Ocala FL 
>
>62 TR4
>
>75 TR6
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 10:35:45 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 12:32:34 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My 63 TR4 with 16580R15 tires in 4th gear - 2500rpm=50mph; 3000rpm=60mph.

i must have the lucky rear end.

As a result, I haven't bothered to fix my speedometer......

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 10:51:55 2013
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 12:40:08 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 to Jonas - I reused my last head gasket (copper version) after
spraying it with copper head gasket spray and after 2000 miles we are
still going strong (knock wood).

Chris


On Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 10:30 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:
> I use Copper Sealant - either "coppa seal" spray or "copper coat gasket
> compound" brush on by K&W - I have never blown a TR3/4 head gasket and have
> put heads on 5 of them.
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting Services, LLC
> 702.882.6711

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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 19:35:42 +0000 (UTC)
From: tfansher@comcast.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: TR3 water pump replacements
Thread-Index: xJvfbGIKhtziLZQ2Sfrb4LiBGt2Jxw==
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Subject: [TR] TR3 water pump replacements
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Anyone know of a source for the "pressed on" pulley type of water pump assembly. Seems to be a better set up and I'm now in need..... 
TIA 
Tom Fansher 
60 TR3A 
61 TR3A 
62 TR4 
73 Stag Mk II 

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'John Macartney'" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>,
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006901cee215$6cd8ef30$468acd90$@gmail.com>
	<1384534687.87831.YahooMailNeo@web171903.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 15:20:42 -0500
Thread-Index: AQDQ0RxCgo7MSMwEKBjqWm0UDCm8EQIHN7hmnBKkQlA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to those that responded.  Jim henningsen

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk] 
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 11:58 AM
To: James Henningsen; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question

 

Factory used a normal lightweight general purpose grease lightly smeared
with a finger on the block face, both sides of the gasket and the underside
of the head.



 

Jonmac





From: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, 15 November 2013, 15:14
Subject: [TR] Head Question


Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do you
use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on a TR4
motor?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL 

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 15:14:39 2013
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 16:12:00 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1384553522;
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Subject: [TR] Request to borrow TR8 valve covers.....fulfilled. Thanks!
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

Thanks to all of the kind responses. I think I have an agreement from one TR8
owner that has an engine sitting on the floor.  Turns out he is also on my FB,
too.

If we are able, we should have reusable silicon gaskets available shortly
after the first of the year, for the TR8.

We are in start up of both a new website and a production start up of about 40
different valve cover gaskets for vintage vehicles.

Those can be found on Gasketinnovations.com

If you see any errors, or have any suggestions, please let us know.

We have three generations of TR family enthusiasts working on this stuff.

Joe Alexander

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 18:19:47 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006901cee215$6cd8ef30$468acd90$@gmail.com>
	<20131115233417.26HAK.256448.root@cdptpa-web34-z02>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:02:33 -0500
Thread-Index: AQHjJmGqSFwt/RNJw1qTQdOq0d6cLJn+gf5A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Thanks Randall and others.  A friend of mine said he uses an old racer trick.
He sprays the gasket with silver paint top and bottom and installs.  Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 6:34 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; James Henningsen
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question


---- James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do
> you use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on
> a TR4 motor?

Are you talking about the original copper-clad composition gasket, or the
solid copper gasket sold for racing?

The TR2/3 workshop manual specifies "Wellseal" for the head gasket, while the
TR4 manual just says "jointing compound".

For me, it doesn't seem to make any difference, so I gave up using anything.
As long as the liner protrusion is within range on both sides of each liner,
the stock gasket seems to seal just fine dry.  And if the protrusion isn't
right, no amount of goop is going to help.  YMMV

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 18:34:15 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:11:43 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7iaM9QLe4BwOwkSUWU05P+SvoiKA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Steering Column Rebush follow-up
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Based on the advice from the list, I used an xacto blade to cut out the
buttons on both bushes.  A sprayed a little lubricant in the column and used
a spark plug socket and extension to lightly tap the old bushes further into
the column.  The spark plug socket was a perfect fit and the extension
allowed me to tap them in sufficiently to allow clearance for the new.  The
column is out of the car and just got cleaned and painted today.  New bushes
in soon.  Thanks for all the help from the list.  Your support of my rebuild
project is greatly appreciated.

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 15 18:46:11 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006901cee215$6cd8ef30$468acd90$@gmail.com>
	<20131115233417.26HAK.256448.root@cdptpa-web34-z02>
	<010b01cee267$88da7490$9a8f5db0$@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:33:09 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

exactly... but the copper has better heat transfer and usually a higher 
solids content
The Permatex Copper spray is nearly identical in 'dried' feel' as cheapo no 
name copper colored paint (NOT the Duplicolor and caliper paints)
Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question


> Thanks Randall and others.  A friend of mine said he uses an old racer 
> trick.
> He sprays the gasket with silver paint top and bottom and installs.  Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver@ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 6:34 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net; James Henningsen
> Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
>
>
> ---- James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do
>> you use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on
>> a TR4 motor?
>
> Are you talking about the original copper-clad composition gasket, or the
> solid copper gasket sold for racing?
>
> The TR2/3 workshop manual specifies "Wellseal" for the head gasket, while 
> the
> TR4 manual just says "jointing compound".
>
> For me, it doesn't seem to make any difference, so I gave up using 
> anything.
> As long as the liner protrusion is within range on both sides of each 
> liner,
> the stock gasket seems to seal just fine dry.  And if the protrusion isn't
> right, no amount of goop is going to help.  YMMV
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<CANhzkeOsPkiKH5L2wnQzRWzn2CoHjQSpxi-xsHbK+ZkB1EJhag@mail.gmail.com>
From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 12:33:47 -0600
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Chis,
Same numbers and tyres for my TR3A.
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2013, at 11:32 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My 63 TR4 with 16580R15 tires in 4th gear - 2500rpm=50mph; 3000rpm=60mph.
>
> i must have the lucky rear end.
>
> As a result, I haven't bothered to fix my speedometer......
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 18:28:20 -0600
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x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d338152880dc01299
Subject: [TR] Road America & the K Cup 2013. John Seaman DVD is now
 available.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This comes from Kas.....he has reviewed the John Seaman Production DVD. See
below.

This was the 11th Running of the Kastner Cup and we are proud of it. Lots of
Triumph footage.

If you were there, you may want this DVD in your archives....or even if you
weren't.

The people that drove them 60 years ago are included in this video...this is
history and it marches on. Eagles Canyon in Texas, next year.


> From: Kas Kastner
> Date: November 16, 2013 at 1:09:07 PM CST
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Fot] Road America & the K Cup race
>
> John Seaman has made a great 70 minute video of the races and interviews
> with shots of lots of the cars and interesting views and bits. If you would
> like to see this DVD contact website for ordering at:  the-vintage-racer.com
>
> *Never be beaten by equipment.*
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4@cs.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 18:06:50 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <B9B064A0069F47E8B203FD8C7053EC11@mcmasterb0b98c>
	<CANhzkeOsPkiKH5L2wnQzRWzn2CoHjQSpxi-xsHbK+ZkB1EJhag@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 20:05:41 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My 2002 Diesel Dodge 3500 (4.10 but with an overdrive 6th gear) does 2000 at
60. But, I don't plan to see if the approximate redline of 3000 will produce
90!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2013 12:33 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] RPM VS MPH/KPH CALCULATOR?

My 63 TR4 with 16580R15 tires in 4th gear - 2500rpm=50mph; 3000rpm=60mph.

i must have the lucky rear end.

As a result, I haven't bothered to fix my speedometer......

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 21:49:46 2013
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Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2013 10:48:21 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Trafficator TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I decided to finally get to a job I have been putting off for quite some 
time.

A few years ago I noticed my steering wheel was a bit loose so yesterday 
seemed like a good day to start the job.

It was about 50 degrees so I wouldnt freeze in the garage.

Removing the trafficator assembly was not that difficult. The three set 
screws loosened ok and I was able to remove the brass nut and ferrule on 
the gearbox.

I then looked through my socket collection but soon discovered I didnt 
have one large enough! Maybe that is the reason I didnt get it tight 
enough with my channel locks. in the first place!

Quick trip to Lowes didnt produce the socket. It turned out to be a 1 
5/16. They had 1 1/4 and 1 1/2. Clerk said it was a special size.

Well, next door is a Tractor supply and they had the socket and it was 
only 8 bucks.

So back home I attached the socket to my impact wrench and I now have a 
tight wheel.

So I turned my attention to the trafficator assembly. I purchased a NOS 
wire harness a few years back on Ebay. The existing one was frayed in a 
few spots and had shorted out in the past leaving the horn on.

I figured it would be a easy swap. I forgot how small those screws and 
nuts are and the fact that I cant see S$%t.

Well I got the new harness installed and with the help of my wife, now 
have the assembly installed!

I hope that is the last time I have to work on that assembly! And I am 
happy that Triumph left that design on the bench when they came out with 
the 4. Must be because of the Rack and Pinion.

Now all I need is Spring!



Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 16 21:50:47 2013
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Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 23:34:17 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote: 
> Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do you
> use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on a TR4
> motor?

Are you talking about the original copper-clad composition gasket, or the solid copper gasket sold for racing?

The TR2/3 workshop manual specifies "Wellseal" for the head gasket, while the TR4 manual just says "jointing compound".

For me, it doesn't seem to make any difference, so I gave up using anything.  As long as the liner protrusion is within range on both sides of each liner, the stock gasket seems to seal just fine dry.  And if the protrusion isn't right, no amount of goop is going to help.  YMMV

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 12:11:03 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Alan Myers <amfoto1@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Head question & Steering Column rebush
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Hi Jim,

Yes, I've done that too... I understand that any metallic rattle can spray
paint with high metallic particle content will do. Silver, copper, gold paints
all will work.

I learned the trick from an old, old Ford truck repair shop that helped me out
with an on-the-road repair of a 6 cylinder motor that broke down on me in S.
Oregon. The engine sucked in a couple screws that came loose from the carb's
air cleaner assembly. We had to remove the head to get them out and inspect
the engine (fortunately no harm was done to pistons, rings, cylinder walls or
valves & seats). This was an interesting 60 or 70 old repair shop in Port
Orford that serviced logging trucks and other heavy equipment. A lot of their
power tools still ran off a complex and ancient belt and pulley system that
was originally steam driven. The owner of the shop showed me the trick of
using plain old spray paint to coat both sides the gasket, we did that when
reassembling my truck's motor and it was still working perfectly when I sold
that van some years later. I should note, though, that it was not a copper
head gasket. It was some sort of composite (stock item).

As a side note, that was one of the most enjoyable break-downs I ever had...
the locals treated us like long-lost friends, I spent some days working
alongside the "old school" mechanics, and they only charged me $275 for a job
that likely would have cost 4 or 5 times that back here in Calif. When I
wasn't working on the van, we explored that friendly little town we might have
just driven through (a single stop light on the freeway, at the time). Turned
out they had a 4 star restaurant, great accommodations, a lovely lighthouse
just north of town and had a small but thriving fishing fleet. In some ways,
the break-down was the luckiest and best part of that vacation road trip!

Regarding re-bushing your steering column... Use WD40 on the new bushings, to
help them slide into place easily. Once in, WD40 evaporates and dries out
completely leaving the bushings pretty much "welded" in place. Worked for me
(and will work on many types of rubber... golf club grips, motorcycle grips,
bicycle handlebar grips, etc.) This is one of those rare times that WD40's
uselessness as a lubricant, only being effective for a very short term, comes
in handy.


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640
Triumphest 2009
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/
2009 Monterey Historic Races
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157622075403328/




-----Original Message-----


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:02:33 -0500
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Head Question

...A friend of mine said he uses an old racer trick.
He sprays the gasket with silver paint top and bottom and installs.  Jim


---- James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ok, this is probably a dumb question, but better safe than sorry.  Do
> you use any gasket sealant when installing a new copper head gasket on
> a TR4 motor?


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2013 20:11:43 -0500
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Steering Column Rebush follow-up

...  New bushes
 in soon...
------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:16:15 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 15:15:08 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7j0bZVuQCT08ZfQLGBvNEsgoAiNA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Dash Cover Adhesive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I haven't glued a dash cover in over ten years.  Any current recommendations
on adhesive and is there any adhesive you can use that allows some movement
to get the right fit.  I seem to remember the adhesive that requires you to
lay the cover once and pray you got the holes lined up as it wasn't coming
back up.  Any thoughts as I am on the penultimate step before installing the
dash.

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:27:14 2013
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References: <00ff01cee3d1$b74cb250$25e616f0$@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 13:20:26 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dash Cover Adhesive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Nov 17, 2013 at 1:15 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> I haven't glued a dash cover in over ten years.  Any current
> recommendations
> on adhesive and is there any adhesive you can use that allows some movement
> to get the right fit.



It's been more than 10 years since I did this so the memory is vague -- but
I'm thinking I used very little adhesive and then just a light coat of a 3M
spray.

It seemed to me at the time that adhesive aside, the front edge of that
cover was clamped down very well by the windscreen frame.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 13:31:15 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 14:30:00 -0600
References: <00ff01cee3d1$b74cb250$25e616f0$@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dash Cover Adhesive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I did not need to use an adhesive.
The combination of sandwiching the pad between the windshield up high, and
facia down low did the trick.
Plus, the vents in the top also hold it in place.


On Nov 17, 2013, at 2:15 PM, James Henningsen wrote:

> I haven't glued a dash cover in over ten years.  Any current
recommendations
> on adhesive and is there any adhesive you can use that allows some movement
> to get the right fit.  I seem to remember the adhesive that requires you to
> lay the cover once and pray you got the holes lined up as it wasn't coming
> back up.  Any thoughts as I am on the penultimate step before installing
the
> dash.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 18:02:54 2013
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Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 19:00:27 -0600
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR250 Air valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I got air valves (pistons) for  my wife's TR250 strombergs that have 
adjustable needles as it runs rich at the moment.  I put the new needles 
in the valves and replaced the old air valves with the new ones.

The Tr250 sounded great with the old valves in place and horrible with 
the new ones.  I was expecting to have to do some adjusting, but this 
was more than I expected.

With the new air valves, the font carb pulled about 10 on my 
synchronizer and the back pulled about 15.  I put the old valves back in 
and the front one pulled about 6.5 and the pack pulled 7./

The only thing I changed was the air valve/needle combination.

Why would changing the the air valves cause so much difference?

Thanks,
Roger

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 18:18:00 2013
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References: <528966AB.7020108@rmi.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2013 18:16:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Air valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would expect different needles to produce different running
characteristics - especially prior to any adjustment.  So far as I know the
reading on the synchronizers is meaningless except as a comparison of one
carb to the other.

Were it I, I'd balance the carbs then set the mixture by whatever means
this set-up allows before making any judgment on how it runs.

Geo


On Sun, Nov 17, 2013 at 6:00 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I got air valves (pistons) for  my wife's TR250 strombergs that have
> adjustable needles as it runs rich at the moment.  I put the new needles in
> the valves and replaced the old air valves with the new ones.
>
> The Tr250 sounded great with the old valves in place and horrible with the
> new ones.  I was expecting to have to do some adjusting, but this was more
> than I expected.
>
> With the new air valves, the font carb pulled about 10 on my synchronizer
> and the back pulled about 15.  I put the old valves back in and the front
> one pulled about 6.5 and the pack pulled 7./
>
> The only thing I changed was the air valve/needle combination.
>
> Why would changing the the air valves cause so much difference?
>
> Thanks,
> Roger

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 17 23:24:57 2013
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To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <528966AB.7020108@rmi.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Air valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Same diaphragms for both cases?

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 18 09:16:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 10:14:54 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Air valves
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I used the same diphragms.  I only have one set of the rings that hold the diaphragms in place, so it was easiest to just use the same diaphragms.  

I did check, they are not ripped.

Roger

>Subject: Re: [TR] TR250 Air valves
>
>Same diaphragms for both cases?
>
>mjb.

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From: Berger Bob <bberger720@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 06:24:11 -0600
To: nass@yahoogroups.com, list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Correct Jets for HS-2 Carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I took black jets off of my carbs when I disassembled them but the new rebuild
kit came with red jets.  Other than the black jets having longer hoses to the
float bowels they look identical to the red ones.  What carb are the black
jets supposed to go on?

Thanks

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 06:29:30 -0600
References: <22926987-FBEB-453D-B559-2DF103535A7E@sbcglobal.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Correct Jets for HS-2 Carbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I took black jets off of my carbs when I disassembled them but the new rebuild
kit came with red jets.  Other than the black jets having longer hoses to the
float bowels they look identical to the red ones.  What carb are the black
jets supposed to go on?

Thanks

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 05:54:59 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Just curious. Do you have to pull the stick shift off of the TR3 trans
when pulling out the TR3 trans/engine combo? Or can you get it out with the
stick still on? I'll pull the stick off, but I was wondering...

     Bill in
Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 05:59:17 -0800
References: <1384869299.81596.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Nov 19, 2013, at 5:54 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>     Just curious. Do you have to pull the stick shift off of the TR3 trans
> when pulling out the TR3 trans/engine combo? Or can you get it out with the
> stick still on? I'll pull the stick off, but I was wondering...
>
>

Ive never removed it when Ive pulled the engine & trans on my TR4A.  You
have to tilt the tranny down anyway when taking it out.

I think the shifter on the TR3 is a little different, but probably doesnt
stick up more overall.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 08:05:47 -0600 (CST)
From: ptegler@verizon.net
To: bberger720@sbcglobal.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Correct Jets for HS-2 Carbs
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From: ptegler@verizon.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] >>NASS  Correct Jets for HS-2 Carbs
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 09:11:25 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,  Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1384869299.81596.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

I would remove the stick. If you make a mistake and hit the stick on the 
body when removing then it is very possible that the cover casting will 
break at or about the area of where the stick is located. It is not too 
strong in that area. I broke a cover a long time ago just by trying to 
remove the steel collar that holds the stick assembly.

Although you can remove the engine/transmission assembly without 
removing the stick, you will have a lot more room with the stick removed.

So on the same subject, be careful when removing the stick assembly if 
you choose to do so. That steel can sort of cause the casting to rust. 
When replacing use liberal amounts of grease or anti seize.

I also sanded the casting area where the steel collar attach to insure a 
easy fit when re-assembly.

Bob

  On 11/19/2013 08:54 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       Just curious. Do you have to pull the stick shift off of the TR3 trans
> when pulling out the TR3 trans/engine combo? Or can you get it out with the
> stick still on? I'll pull the stick off, but I was wondering...
>
>       Bill in
> Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 19 07:24:55 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 09:15:46 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Also, the threaded portion of the shift lever is hollow and quite weak.  I 
second the suggestion.

Dave

In a message dated 11/19/2013 8:11:27 AM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr@adelphia.net writes: 
> I would remove the stick. If you make a mistake and hit the stick on the 
> body when removing then it is very possible that the cover casting will 
> break at or about the area of where the stick is located. It is not too 
> strong in that area. I broke a cover a long time ago just by trying to 
> remove the steel collar that holds the stick assembly.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1384869299.81596.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 08:38:56 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7lLxKu6BJxczEDRvCD916XuEGAMAABVyBA
Subject: Re: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,
You can but life is so much easier if you remove it.  Just a couple of bolts
and you have gained another 8-10 inches of clearance.

My tip: Have the car up on secure jack stands so you can get the maximum
tilt on your way out/in to minimize scraping on the firewall and throttle
rod(if not removed).

Enjoy,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:55 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Pulling TR3 engine/trans

     Just curious. Do you have to pull the stick shift off of the TR3 trans
when pulling out the TR3 trans/engine combo? Or can you get it out with the
stick still on? I'll pull the stick off, but I was wondering...

     Bill in
Tehachapi

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From: WBEECH <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2013 12:24:38 -0600
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Rover Owner
	Mailing List the Land <lro@land-rover.team.net>
Subject: [TR] International shipping.
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello list,
I'm looking for a good carrier to ship a vehicle from Texas to Luxembourg.
My schedule is flexible in order to save funds.

All suggestions appreciated.

Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 20 22:27:15 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2013 23:25:30 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

First, thanks for all of the suggestions to date!

In my obsessive desire to get the car to "purr" at idle, I have:

Set the valve lash (I even measured the cam lobes for good measure)
Set the timing
Set the idle
Set the mixture

I am getting between 20-21 vacuum at the intake manifold.
Roughly 185 compression on all four cylinders

But I was still getting a "jumpy" idle, normally varying between 800-900 RPM,
occasionally dropping into the 700s..

So, on a suggestion from Randall I went and got myself a timing light and
found the timing is jumping, to the advance side.
Hmm.. maybe the dizzy gear end float.
Checked it.  Just over .007.. just exceeding the upper limit.

But I thought, maybe its the Pertronix dizzy with a loose advance.
Pulled it out and dropped in my recently rebuilt Lucus tonight.
Set it to the same timing as the other (8' BTDC), and I still have the jumpy
timing, again to the advance.

So, I've got something that is causing the spark to fire too soon at idle.
But it evens out when I give it some throttle.

At this point I am suspecting that maybe that dizzy gear is jumping around,
causing the sporadic advance.
But this space is taken up under throttle.
Or, the timing gear/chain has got some sort of slop.

I'm considering having my dizzy pedestal shaved done .003" to take up the
float space, and/or replacing the dizzy gear.
I'd like to eliminate these before diving into the gear/chain.

Anyone know where I can source a "new" dizzy gear?
Anything else I am not thinking of?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 03:04:16 2013
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 05:02:56 -0500
From: George Richardson <gpr@key-men.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <8F0D58C4-F10D-404E-A00F-77BED8A173CA@genfiniti.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've heard that the timing chain tensioners on these engines can break 
off. That would give you some slop in the timing.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 11/21/2013 12:25 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote:
> All,
>
> First, thanks for all of the suggestions to date!
>
> In my obsessive desire to get the car to "purr" at idle, I have:
>
> Set the valve lash (I even measured the cam lobes for good measure)
> Set the timing
> Set the idle
> Set the mixture
>
> I am getting between 20-21 vacuum at the intake manifold.
> Roughly 185 compression on all four cylinders
>
> But I was still getting a "jumpy" idle, normally varying between 800-900 RPM,
> occasionally dropping into the 700s..
>
> So, on a suggestion from Randall I went and got myself a timing light and
> found the timing is jumping, to the advance side.
> Hmm.. maybe the dizzy gear end float.
> Checked it.  Just over .007.. just exceeding the upper limit.
>
> But I thought, maybe its the Pertronix dizzy with a loose advance.
> Pulled it out and dropped in my recently rebuilt Lucus tonight.
> Set it to the same timing as the other (8' BTDC), and I still have the jumpy
> timing, again to the advance.
>
> So, I've got something that is causing the spark to fire too soon at idle.
> But it evens out when I give it some throttle.
>
> At this point I am suspecting that maybe that dizzy gear is jumping around,
> causing the sporadic advance.
> But this space is taken up under throttle.
> Or, the timing gear/chain has got some sort of slop.
>
> I'm considering having my dizzy pedestal shaved done .003" to take up the
> float space, and/or replacing the dizzy gear.
> I'd like to eliminate these before diving into the gear/chain.
>
> Anyone know where I can source a "new" dizzy gear?
> Anything else I am not thinking of?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr@key-men.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 04:05:41 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'G.D. Huggins'" <guy@genfiniti.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <8F0D58C4-F10D-404E-A00F-77BED8A173CA@genfiniti.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 06:04:05 -0500
Thread-Index: AQGg7FQIjvzmG/hd6hYOBZccgnBBC5qLef9A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe a worn, sloppy timing chain?

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 12:26 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update

All,

First, thanks for all of the suggestions to date!

In my obsessive desire to get the car to "purr" at idle, I have:

Set the valve lash (I even measured the cam lobes for good measure) Set the
timing Set the idle Set the mixture

I am getting between 20-21 vacuum at the intake manifold.
Roughly 185 compression on all four cylinders

But I was still getting a "jumpy" idle, normally varying between 800-900
RPM, occasionally dropping into the 700s..

So, on a suggestion from Randall I went and got myself a timing light and
found the timing is jumping, to the advance side.
Hmm.. maybe the dizzy gear end float.
Checked it.  Just over .007.. just exceeding the upper limit.

But I thought, maybe its the Pertronix dizzy with a loose advance.
Pulled it out and dropped in my recently rebuilt Lucus tonight.
Set it to the same timing as the other (8' BTDC), and I still have the jumpy
timing, again to the advance.

So, I've got something that is causing the spark to fire too soon at idle.
But it evens out when I give it some throttle.

At this point I am suspecting that maybe that dizzy gear is jumping around,
causing the sporadic advance.
But this space is taken up under throttle.
Or, the timing gear/chain has got some sort of slop.

I'm considering having my dizzy pedestal shaved done .003" to take up the
float space, and/or replacing the dizzy gear.
I'd like to eliminate these before diving into the gear/chain.

Anyone know where I can source a "new" dizzy gear?
Anything else I am not thinking of?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson@charter.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 07:21:19 2013
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 07:13:03 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In my experience, a broken tensioner will give you a lot of noise, easily
traced to inside the timing chain cover.  An excessively worn chain (with a
good tensioner), not so much so.

Geo


On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:25 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> First, thanks for all of the suggestions to date!
>
> In my obsessive desire to get the car to "purr" at idle, I have:
>
> Set the valve lash (I even measured the cam lobes for good measure)
> Set the timing
> Set the idle
> Set the mixture
>
> I am getting between 20-21 vacuum at the intake manifold.
> Roughly 185 compression on all four cylinders
>
> But I was still getting a "jumpy" idle, normally varying between 800-900
> RPM,
> occasionally dropping into the 700s..
>
> So, on a suggestion from Randall I went and got myself a timing light and
> found the timing is jumping, to the advance side.
> Hmm.. maybe the dizzy gear end float.
> Checked it.  Just over .007.. just exceeding the upper limit.
>
> But I thought, maybe its the Pertronix dizzy with a loose advance.
> Pulled it out and dropped in my recently rebuilt Lucus tonight.
> Set it to the same timing as the other (8' BTDC), and I still have the
> jumpy
> timing, again to the advance.
>
> So, I've got something that is causing the spark to fire too soon at idle.
> But it evens out when I give it some throttle.
>
> At this point I am suspecting that maybe that dizzy gear is jumping around,
> causing the sporadic advance.
> But this space is taken up under throttle.
> Or, the timing gear/chain has got some sort of slop.
>
> I'm considering having my dizzy pedestal shaved done .003" to take up the
> float space, and/or replacing the dizzy gear.
> I'd like to eliminate these before diving into the gear/chain.
>
> Anyone know where I can source a "new" dizzy gear?
> Anything else I am not thinking of?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 13:13:46 -0500
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree, my broken tensioner I think was what caused the chain to wear a 
hole in the timing chain cover......

Doug
On 11/21/2013 9:13 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> In my experience, a broken tensioner will give you a lot of noise, easily
> traced to inside the timing chain cover.  An excessively worn chain (with a
> good tensioner), not so much so.

-- 

p.s. I do not use a smart phone so if you email me and do not get a quick response it is not because I am ignoring you. Just not at a computer.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jim Vassiliadis" <jimstr4@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 09:09:10 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac7m9YpzfjZaJd5PRhy7iQXabIzwvA==
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My idle always jumped around.
My tensioner had broken and as a consequence my chain was sloppy.
I didn't hear any nboise from that area, mind you my exhaust noise might
have drowned any noise from the timing chain.
I have replaced both but as my car is still in bits I can't tell you whether
it fixed the problem.
 
Jim and the Black TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 21:20:43 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A wry smile crossed my face when I read of Guy Huggins' issues in seeking to
have a 4 pot Standard-Triumph engine "purr" at idle. We all know what Guy's
seeking to achieve though (with respect to him) getting his TR to "purr" is
perhaps the wrong adjective?
May I recount one of my little stories, Gents?
When I was about 7 or 8 years of age, I sometimes spent Saturday mornings with
Dad in the factory at Canley. Saturday mornings were working days, although
the tracks weren't running. I was always on my best behaviour (I hope?)
because we always encountered senior members of the Company's management team
and perhaps this wasn't surprising because Dad was part of that same team.
On
one day, we ran into Ted Grinham (the wet-liner four's designer) and he and
Dad talked to one another as though I wasn't there. Well, why shouldn't they?
On such visits I always carried a little red notebook and jotted things in it
that I'd seen and wanted to ask Dad about when we got home. What I jotted in
the book was Grinham's observation about his own engine in which he said,
"it's as rough as a bear's ***e - but it's certainly durable!"
I'm not sure if
I ever did ask Dad what an ***e was - whether it was unique to a bear or not
but as teenage years approached, I speculated whether anyone had ever made an
official ruling on the natural condition of a bear's ***e and whether that
examination had been made when the bear was alive or dead. A year or two
later, I came to realise that bears are indeed quite dangerous creatures and
under any circumstances might not take too kindly in someone touching them in
that area to form an opinion on smoothness - or not.
So it would be churlish
to deny Guy what he *seeks* to achieve but I doubt whether anyone from Ted
Grinham downwards could ever agree the wet liner 4 can ever purr. It's a
lumpy, rough old blighter and smoothness was never its second name - but don't
we all love it?

Jonmac

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 14:58:51 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 16:49:05 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
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Why does the phrase "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" come 
to mind?

You be we all love it.  An essential part of the charm.

Dave

In a message dated 11/21/2013 3:23:36 PM Central Standard Time, 
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> It's a
> lumpy, rough old blighter and smoothness was never its second name - but 
> don't
> we all love it?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 16:11:01 2013
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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 17:39:56 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <a599b.41b225ce.3fbfd9d1@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
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I dont totally agree. Both my 3 and 4 idle pretty smooth. The 3 has 87 
mm pistons but the rest is stock. The 4 is stock but with HS6 carbs and 
the later TR4A intake manifold. Once they warm up the idle is at about 
800rpm and very steady.

But saying that, the 6 does idle at about the same rpm but does feel 
"smoother". That is due to 6 cyls vs. 4 I am sure.

Maybe it time to get the distributor rebuilt?

Bob

  On 11/21/2013 04:49 PM, Dave1massey@cs.com wrote:
> Why does the phrase "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" come
> to mind?
>
> You be we all love it.  An essential part of the charm.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 11/21/2013 3:23:36 PM Central Standard Time,
> flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>> It's a
>> lumpy, rough old blighter and smoothness was never its second name - but
>> don't
>> we all love it?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 19:18:15 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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	<CANzE1bFQb5yFNCJV898zXLE6cvUeXfGX+BE0mLTx5muVXttaUw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
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On 11/21/2013 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> May I recount one of my little stories, Gents?

We are always sitting comfortably...please begin whenever you feel like 
it...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 21 21:57:02 2013
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Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 4:50:32 +0000
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
	2013 4:50:32 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update
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I was going to say the same thing as Bob, my old 4A had a very smooth and sweet running engine after I rebuilt the motor and carbs, I used 87mm pistons too, maybe that is the secret.  Smooth runner, pulled like a train from 2-4000 rpm in 2nd, kind of a big faithful dog of an engine, it never seemed overly sensitive to timing and mixture adjustments and always treated me well even if I didn't always treat it well.  

Greg Lemon
68 TR250 (red, current)
66 TR4A (BRG, gone still missed)

---- Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote: 
 I dont totally agree. Both my 3 and 4 idle pretty smooth. The 3 has 87 
 mm pistons but the rest is stock. The 4 is stock but with HS6 carbs and 
 the later TR4A intake manifold. Once they warm up the idle is at about  800 rpm and very steady."

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 12:45:52 2013
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Subject: [TR] Paint color code for Argent Silver wheels
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For Triumph wheels (this time, Vitesse / Sports 6), does anyone have a good
paint color code for Argent Silver?

Thanks, Joe Cain

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Subject: Re: [TR] steady Tr4 idle
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Hi Guy,
(Just thinking out loud here).. Since you recently rebuilt your motor it seems
unlikely timing chain and tensioner already worn..  I have a newer low mileage
dizzy 'drive gear', and noticed it is copper plated. My old original gear
shows copper well worn through into the steel teeth.  ..your gear may be worn
beyond limit, length-wise.. but also tooth-wise.. allowing a bit of chatter
with the cam gear, and affecting your idle..
Rather than searching for the rare gear.. wonder if having your part heavily
re-copper plated would resolve both 'worn beyond limit' areas..
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


But I was still getting a "jumpy" idle, normally varying between 800-900 RPM,
occasionally dropping into the 700s..

So, on a suggestion from Randall I went and got myself a timing light and
found the timing is jumping, to the advance side.
Hmm.. maybe the dizzy gear end float.
Checked it.  Just over .007.. just exceeding the upper limit.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 22 15:16:45 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: <joecainpe@aol.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <8D0B5D24C1F386D-A78-581B2@webmail-d176.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2013 17:15:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint color code for Argent Silver wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...don't know about a true 'paint code'
but I've been stunned and extremely happy with the color match of the
VHT rattle can 250 degree wheel paint
SP188 Ford Argent Silver.

I've tried a zillion silvers on all kinds of parts... but this particular 
brand/shade of  'Argent Silver' (test sprayed and have used on) on 
Spitfire/GT6 and TR7 wheels looks almost identical when dried (obviously 
cleaner and shinier)


Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <joecainpe@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 2:43 PM
Subject: [TR] Paint color code for Argent Silver wheels


> For Triumph wheels (this time, Vitesse / Sports 6), does anyone have a 
> good
> paint color code for Argent Silver?
>
> Thanks, Joe Cain
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 14:09:22 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 14:05:47 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,

Has anyone used a tow bar to tow a Spitfire? I'm thinking of buying a  
Spitfire to tow behind the RV and was wondering if it's possible (and  
safe) to attach a tow bar to the front outriggers that the bonnet/ 
bumper attaches to. Or if there's a better method I'd like to hear  
about that too. Not interested in a car dolly or trailer (got one)  
towing just flat towing. If you know of a specific type of tow bar  
that works that would be great. I could fabricate some brackets to fit  
the outriggers as an adapter to the tow bar brackets if needed but I  
thought I'd query the list to get some ideas.

Somewhat related story:

Hardy Prentice was at 2013VTR in October and was telling me how he  
flat towed his TR3 race car (which was on display in the hotel lobby)   
behind an E type Jag to all his races. He said with the TR3 loaded  
with spares, race tires, and all his tools the car weighed more than  
the E type which made for some interesting driving experiences. But  
certainly Hardy could handle it if anyone could.

I'm not going to try that but I would like to flat tow a nice light  
Spitfire (1600 lbs or so) behind my RV. I even have SWMBO's buy in as  
she thinks we need a car to drive around when we go camping in the RV.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 14:21:47 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <tx851m02N0NyJgq01x88sq>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 14:20:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7qInOgoyvqup3sTIm4nj0e8vDw5wAAUbNw
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The recommended method is to Trailer it.  This is because the transmission
gets oiled by the input shaft slinging oil onto the gears.  If the
driveshaft is in place the rear wheels will be turning the gears without
lubrication.

So if you have no other option, you must remove the driveshaft prior to
towing or using a dolly where the rear wheels are on the ground.


Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud R
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Towing a Spitfire

List,

Has anyone used a tow bar to tow a Spitfire? I'm thinking of buying a  
Spitfire to tow behind the RV and was wondering if it's possible (and  
safe) to attach a tow bar to the front outriggers that the bonnet/ 
bumper attaches to. Or if there's a better method I'd like to hear  
about that too. Not interested in a car dolly or trailer (got one)  
towing just flat towing. If you know of a specific type of tow bar  
that works that would be great. I could fabricate some brackets to fit  
the outriggers as an adapter to the tow bar brackets if needed but I  
thought I'd query the list to get some ideas.

Somewhat related story:

Hardy Prentice was at 2013VTR in October and was telling me how he  
flat towed his TR3 race car (which was on display in the hotel lobby)   
behind an E type Jag to all his races. He said with the TR3 loaded  
with spares, race tires, and all his tools the car weighed more than  
the E type which made for some interesting driving experiences. But  
certainly Hardy could handle it if anyone could.

I'm not going to try that but I would like to flat tow a nice light  
Spitfire (1600 lbs or so) behind my RV. I even have SWMBO's buy in as  
she thinks we need a car to drive around when we go camping in the RV.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 16:51:59 2013
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References: <9869AA2D-6C2F-46BF-9729-55E6C5696531@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 16:50:05 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 2:05 PM, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hardy Prentice was at 2013VTR in October and was telling me how he
> flat towed his TR3 race car (which was on display in the hotel lobby)
> behind an E type Jag to all his races...


As I recall, Hardy's screen name on another forum is the very descriptive
"CatPusher'.

There are units used to easily disconnect the driveshaft for towing on all
fours.  No idea if they work on a Spit and I have no personal experience
with them, but Remco <http://www.remcodsc.com/> is the name I have most
often heard.



Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 18:21:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 20:19:08 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <9869AA2D-6C2F-46BF-9729-55E6C5696531@comcast.net>
	<CANzE1bHa+mVz2itWbysRiocxWf4xQ99XVFBWMPy9MnaMqM6dzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
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On 11/25/2013 6:50 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> There are units used to easily disconnect the driveshaft for towing on all
> fours.  No idea if they work on a Spit and I have no personal experience
> with them, but Remco<http://www.remcodsc.com/>  is the name I have most
> often heard.

I once helped install one of those on my uncle's car 9not a Spitfire). 
It worked more or less as advertised...it was a long time ago, and so I 
can't recall how well it worked, but he principle is sound, as long as 
it stays in the position in which you place it...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 25 20:41:08 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: Joe Curry <spitlist@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 20:39:12 -0700
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all for the help.  Good point about the gearbox needing  
lubrication.

How about if I put it in 4th gear and lock the clutch in the  
disengaged position (as it would be if the clutch pedal were pushed in)?

Will the input shaft spin and the oil deflector throw oil on the gears  
from the wheels/diff/driveshaft/mainshaft/input shaft spinning?

Looks like the clutch master cylinder shaft could be made to be locked  
in place at the MC bracket with the clutch in the disengaged position  
(clutch pedal were pushed in).

The Remco driveshaft disconnect coupling looks like a good solution,  
but a rather expensive one.  I can jury rig a MC "lock" quite a bit  
cheaper.


Is a 69 Spitfire front bumper substantial enough to use for tow bar  
brackets?


Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


On Nov 25, 2013, at 2:20 PM, Joe Curry wrote:

> The recommended method is to Trailer it.  This is because the  
> transmission
> gets oiled by the input shaft slinging oil onto the gears.  If the
> driveshaft is in place the rear wheels will be turning the gears  
> without
> lubrication.
>
> So if you have no other option, you must remove the driveshaft prior  
> to
> towing or using a dolly where the rear wheels are on the ground.
>
>
> Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 13:55:34 2013
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From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 15:53:44 -0500
References: <mailman.17.1385492404.28791.triumphs@autox.team.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 407
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Nov 25, 2013, at 8:39 PM, Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Is a 69 Spitfire front bumper substantial enough to use for tow bar
> brackets?

I would think the bumper bar itself is too flimsy. I would try the brackets to
the frame. I did this with one of our TR4s by welding two pieces of flat stock
to the sides of the frame. There was a hole drilled in the forward part of
each piece of flat stock. I then had a typical towing bar made with flanges
exactly matching the spacing of the flat stock on the frame. These flanges had
similar sized holes drilled in them. I then had a piece of rod-same diameter
as the holes-bent into an L so that the rod could be inserted between the
flange and the flat stock on one side, through the flat stock and flange on
the other side, and then held in place with a pin through a small hole drilled
across the diameter of the rod. Made many trips that way.


Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 15:27:50 2013
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From: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1385492404.28791.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 17:25:54 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac7q2cCT0isaU2S6QVqpWyfZNO2O4wAGy9Sg
Subject: [TR] REMCO
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I remember REMCO.  I still have one of their science kits.  8-)

http://tinyurl.com/k9bu6mz     will take you to a page full of pictures of
the toys.

Ron L

-----Original Message-----

Remco <http://www.remcodsc.com/> is the name I have most often heard.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 20:11:42 2013
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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 21:05:38 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A upper wishbone bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

My apologies for the premature sending of the incomplete email.

Am rebuilding sub assemblies for my TR4A front suspension.  The new rubber
bushings for the upper wishbones need to be compressed 1/2 in. after the two
bushes are in place in the wishbone and installed on the upper fulcrum.  When
the slotted nut is tightened enough to clear the hole for the split pin, the
exposed rubber bushings are "bulging" from the amount of compression needed to
get the nut in place.  My issue is that although the bushings are installed,
it just doesn't look right with the bulging rubber.  Any comments or personal
experience will be appreciated.  Thanks.

John DeLuca




Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 26 20:59:35 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <27BCCC5A-C67C-47D9-A47F-6FA3FA137F2D@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 21:57:37 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A upper wishbone bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I put new upper rubber bushing in my TR4A  few years ago, they didn't last 
long, maybe I didn't get them on right (couldn't ask questions on email 
lists back then) anyway, I replaced them with poly bushings, which are 
pretty reasonable for a set, I thought the steering and general handling 
felt more precise with no deterioration of ride quality, and keep them lubed 
properly (silicone grease) and they should last a long time.  I know there 
are differing opinions on poly bushings, but I think for this particular 
application they work well, have them on my TR250 too.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 06:07:08 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:04:59 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A upper wishbone bushings
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Ditto on Greg's comments about poly.  I've never done a satisfactory job 
installing rubber bushings but it has been said that you must have the 
suspension at normal ride height when you tighten the nuts since the rubber doesn't 
rotate, it deflects and you want it to deflect equally to either side of 
the mid point.  If you tighten the nuts at full extension (as I did) then they 
will be overstreched at full compression.

Dave

In a message dated 11/26/2013 9:09:42 PM Central Standard Time, 
john-marie@sbcglobal.net writes: 
> Am rebuilding sub assemblies for my TR4A front suspension.  The new 
> rubber
> bushings for the upper wishbones need to be compressed 1/2 in. after the 
> two
> bushes are in place in the wishbone and installed on the upper fulcrum.  
> When
> the slotted nut is tightened enough to clear the hole for the split pin, 
> the
> exposed rubber bushings are "bulging" from the amount of compression 
> needed to
> get the nut in place.  My issue is that although the bushings are 
> installed,
> it just doesn't look right with the bulging rubber.  Any comments or 
> personal
> experience will be appreciated.  Thanks.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2013 20:35:27 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A upper wishbone bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

Am rebuilding sub assemblies for my TR4A front suspension.  The new rubber
bushings for the upper wishbones

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 08:55:05 2013
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	<948DA1E9-FDE4-44C3-B600-D413E224F74F@execulink.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 15:52:57 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart@execulink.com>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 407
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

No, the front bumper will deform if you use it as a towing point.
 
That said
- and from memory, your car *should* have a lashing eye bolted to the right
front chassis extension with another similar one at the rear. These were put
there at the factory to chain the car down when being transported on a truck
from factory to dealer or docks. Both are more than strong enough to attach a
tow rope.

Jonmac



On Tuesday, 26 November 2013, 20:56, Keith Stewart
<keithstewart@execulink.com> wrote:
  
On Nov 25, 2013, at 8:39 PM, Bud R
<levilevi@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Is a 69 Spitfire front bumper
substantial enough to use for tow bar
>> brackets?
>
>I would think the bumper
bar itself is too flimsy. I would try the brackets to
>the frame. I did this
with one of our TR4s by welding two pieces of flat stock
>to the sides of the
frame. There was a hole drilled in the forward part of
>each piece of flat
stock. I then had a typical towing bar made with flanges
>exactly matching the
spacing of the flat stock on the frame. These flanges had
>similar sized holes
drilled in them. I then had a piece of rod-same diameter
>as the holes-bent
into an L so that the rod could be inserted between the
>flange and the flat
stock on one side, through the flat stock and flange on
>the other side, and
then held in place with a pin through a small hole drilled
>across the
diameter of the rod. Made many trips that way.
>
>
>Keith Stewart
>keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john@yahoo.co.uk

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 10:47:38 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all for providing input on the subject of towing a Spitfire.  
Here's some take away points.

1) Attaching a tow bar

The bumper is too flimsy to attach to. And I did find in the Haynes  
manual where they say to NOT attach a tow rope to the bumper.
I will need to fabricate some brackets to attach to the frame  
extensions and then attach the tow bar brackets to those.

2) Transmission considerations

This was somewhat of a mixed bag.
The majority said the transmission would suffer if oil wasn't being  
flung onto the gears.
I got no reports of anyone having an actual problem with a  
transmission not being lubricated when flat towing. But maybe I just  
haven't heard from those folks.
I had some folks say they'd flat towed British cars many miles without  
an issue. In some cases they'd flat towed all over the country.
Some said that since the gears weren't under load that the lubrication  
from the oil sloshing around in the case was enough.
Some recommended a Remco driveshaft disconnect coupling (there are  
very few others out there). The cost of one including modifying the  
driveshaft would be much more than a replacement Spit tranny.
Many said just trailer it or use a car dolly with the car backwards  
and the steering wheel strapped down. But I'm lazy and looking for the  
quick easy way of just  reducing the process to hooking/unhooking the  
two bolts on the tow bar at the car.
My idea of locking the clutch in the disengaged position with the  
gearbox in 4th gear was met with distain and suspicion.  Too many  
things (clutch MC or slave) could fail and cause problems.


I'm not going to be doing cross country trips towing a Spitfire  just  
from Denver to the mountains and back, maybe 150 miles total. I have a  
trailer for the race car of course but I just don't want to deal with  
the weight, length, loading, unloading, for such short trips and in  
camp grounds when we do side trips.

Thanks again for all the input and suggestions. I'm still  
contemplating what I'll do but now know options and consequences.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 11:12:08 2013
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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 18:07:53 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I got no reports of anyone having an actual problem with a
> transmission not being lubricated when flat towing. 

Not a Triumph, but I burned up an output bearing in a Ford Cortina on a cross-metro tow.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 14:35:54 -0600
To: "levilevi@comcast.net" <levilevi@comcast.net>,
  triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Another input.  About 35 years ago, with driveshaft removed and using a tow
bar similar to what Keith described, I towed a TR3 from Nevada to Ohio to
Florida to Phoenix to Virginia.  (I was in the Air Force.)  No problem with
the transmission, but had to rebuild the front suspension.  Good luck.

John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 27 13:48:29 2013
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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 14:45:38 -0600
To: "Dave1massey@cs.com" <Dave1massey@cs.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Dave,

Ordered poly bushings this morning.  Thanks for the tightening tip.  My
restoration book mentions not tightening until the chassis is loaded.
Appreciate your explanation.

John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <79b95.756b2398.3fc7756a@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 20:46:44 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "McGaheyRx@aol.com" <McGaheyRx@aol.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, Jack
 
Silly old me. I thought the idea was to tow the car a few blocks,
as in a breakdown and to get home - not halfway across the country?
 
If going
further, I'd obviously put the thing on a trailer. Then its handbrake on,
locked in first gear and ratchet straps on a crossover fashion around each
roadwheel. This is the only way you can legally tow a car in the UK and the
combined weight of the car and trailer cannot exceed 85% of the towing vehicle
- even with electric or over-run trailer brakes. A failure to do this will
inevitably having flashing blue lights in your rearview mirror and a dayglo
chequer coloured car with "POLITE" plastered down each door inviting you to
stop PDQ.

Cheers, John

From: "McGaheyRx@aol.com" <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
>To:
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk; keithstewart@execulink.com;
triumphs@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday, 27 November 2013, 16:18
>Subject:
Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 407
>
>
>
>John
>
>I think you should
say "were" strong enough - I've seen to many of these bent and broken to ever
trust one - I would strongly suggest these never be used, even to tie down a
car on a trailer - if you have to make a panic stop while trailering a car,
the force exerted on the rear tie down points is much greater than the weight
of the car 
>Force = Mass x Acceleration
>
>Cheers, 
>Jack Mc 
>
>
>
>In a
message dated 11/27/2013 10:53:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk writes:
>These were put
>>there at the factory
to chain the car down when being transported on a truck
>>from factory to
dealer or docks. Both are more than strong enough to attach a
>>tow rope.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 14:32:33 -0700
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [TR] Happy Thanksgiving
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to those who celebrate it.  I'll be heading out of town soon, hope nothing
blows up while I am gone.  Back late sunday.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 17:19:38 -0500 (EST)
To: levilevi@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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I wonder how many of these success stories were cars equipped with 
overdrive. The problem with flat towing is the oil doesn't get distributed if the 
gears are not turning but if the transmission is equipped with an overdrive 
the planetary gear assembly turns and will fling oil about and perhaps a 
sufficient amount will find its way into the main gear cluster thus saving it 
from self destruction.

Just a hypothesis.

Dave

In a message dated 11/27/2013 11:47:52 AM Central Standard Time, 
levilevi@comcast.net writes: 
> This was somewhat of a mixed bag.
> The majority said the transmission would suffer if oil wasn't being  
> flung onto the gears.
> I got no reports of anyone having an actual problem with a  
> transmission not being lubricated when flat towing. But maybe I just  
> haven't heard from those folks.
> I had some folks say they'd flat towed British cars many miles without  
> an issue. In some cases they'd flat towed all over the country.
> Some said that since the gears weren't under load that the lubrication  
> from the oil sloshing around in the case was enough.
> Some recommended a Remco driveshaft disconnect coupling (there are  
> very few others out there). The cost of one including modifying the  
> driveshaft would be much more than a replacement Spit tranny.
> Many said just trailer it or use a car dolly with the car backwards  
> and the steering wheel strapped down. But I'm lazy and looking for the  
> quick easy way of just  reducing the process to hooking/unhooking the  
> two bolts on the tow bar at the car.
> My idea of locking the clutch in the disengaged position with the  
> gearbox in 4th gear was met with distain and suspicion.  Too many  
> things (clutch MC or slave) could fail and cause problems.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 28 06:13:12 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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It the engine isn't turning the lay gears aren't turning and there is no
distribution of the gear oil.  Also the main shaft cluster isn't turning
either (since they are meshed with the layshaft) but the main shaft (which is
connected to the output flange) is.  So the main shaft is spinning in the
stationary main gear cluster and without lub the bushings will suffer.  Also
note that even if the car is stationary as long as the engine is turning and
the clutch is released the layshaft cluster gears are turning distributing
oil.

There are a lot of variables.  What type of oil is in the transmission.  What
is the ambient temperature.  But the most important variables are how long is
the two and how recently was the engine run (gear oil circulated) before the
tow.  I have also heard that you can overfill the transmission to obviate the
problem.  If you fill the transmission to the point where the main shaft is at
least partially submerged you will probably be fine.  But standard fill levels
are well below this point.

I had a transmission fail after a 50 mile flat tow.  It didn't fail straight
away but I believe it is the result of the flat towing.  The failure mechanism
is legit.


Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>


I've often wondered about these dire warnings.

During towing in neutral (or deceleration), with the rear wheels turning,
isn't
the layshaft gear assembly (sitting in a pool of oil) turning all the time?
And
since it is meshed with some of the main gears above, wouldn't that transfer
some oil constantly to the main gears?

Just wondering again...

Mark

1972 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2013 06:22:35 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 6:10 AM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> I had a transmission fail after a 50 mile flat tow....



I wonder if, in cases of extreme need, one could simply have the engine
idling & the gearbox in neutral during the tow?  Might work for 50 miles --
not practical of course for a 1000 mile tow.

Geo

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Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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 In theory it would work, even on a 1000 mile tow.  Just be sure to top off
both tanks when you stop.  But for a 1000 miles it might be easier to
disconnect the driveshaft.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>



On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 6:10 AM, Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

I had a transmission fail after a 50 mile flat tow....


I wonder if, in cases of extreme need, one could simply have the engine idling
& the gearbox in neutral during the tow?  Might work for 50 miles -- not
practical of course for a 1000 mile tow.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 28 08:16:30 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2013 07:14:31 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Info. on Towing a Spitfire
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> I got no reports of anyone having an actual problem with a  
> transmission not being lubricated when flat towing. But maybe I just  
> haven't heard from those folks.

Not a Spitfire, and I'm not certain how far it was towed with the rear wheels on the ground.  But I have the remains of a TR3
transmission that was apparently ruined by flat towing.  The mainshaft was blue where it engages with the bearing to the input shaft
(which I now use as a clutch alignment tool), and scored from running in the dry bushings.

Even with Russian Roulette, you've got a 5 out of 6 chance.
Randall

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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
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Subject: [TR] Macy's Garage
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Great article in Hemmings Sports & Exotics on Mr Macy and his great Garage,
wish there was something like that on the West Coast, hmmm I guess he would
not franchise, not with his very demanding views on how our Triumphs should be
treated.

Well worth the read, Casper would love to get a Macy Makeover.


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

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Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2013 10:52:43 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Macy's Garage
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I stop by Mark's shop every once in a while and all I can say is WOW!  Not
only does he do quality work he manages to keep his shop cleaner than I
keep my house, let alone my shop :)

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Brad



On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 10:49 AM, William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>wrote:

> Great article in Hemmings Sports & Exotics on Mr Macy and his great Garage,
> wish there was something like that on the West Coast, hmmm I guess he would
> not franchise, not with his very demanding views on how our Triumphs
> should be
> treated.
>
> Well worth the read, Casper would love to get a Macy Makeover.
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007@comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 28 18:23:20 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2013 17:21:18 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7qWSHGSfXyrl5ETSG42PKV5+NraQCNSrEQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> How about if I put it in 4th gear and lock the clutch in the  
> disengaged position (as it would be if the clutch pedal were 
> pushed in)?
> 
> Will the input shaft spin and the oil deflector throw oil on 
> the gears  
> from the wheels/diff/driveshaft/mainshaft/input shaft spinning?

Should work, but now you'll be spinning the throwout bearing all the time.

BTW, a TR3 will fit inside the largest U-Haul covered trailer (although the doors won't quite close).  I suspect a Spitfire would
fit even with the doors closed.

I've done some flat towing for various reasons over the years, and it has always been surprisingly hard on the towed vehicle, even
if nothing breaks.  Every turn you make forces the towed car to flex some, which isn't good for it even if it doesn't break
anything.

Even if you have to buy a used trailer at one end, and resell it at the other, I think you'll be ahead in the long run.  Unless it's
someone else's car of course.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 28 21:38:10 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2013 22:35:52 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Towing_a_Spitfire?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You can rent a small uhaul truck and load the car at a muffler place or other place with a rack.
I did this with a TR4.
The spit is a cheap car, but you're going too cheap dragging it that far.  The whole frontend will be sandblasted when you arrive after flat towing that far.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Towing a Spitfire
Date: Thu, Nov 28, 2013 7:21 pm


> How about if I put it in 4th gear and lock the clutch in the  
> disengaged position (as it would be if the clutch pedal were 
> pushed in)?
> 
> Will the input shaft spin and the oil deflector throw oil on 
> the gears  
> from the wheels/diff/driveshaft/mainshaft/input shaft spinning?

Should work, but now you'll be spinning the throwout bearing all the time.

BTW, a TR3 will fit inside the largest U-Haul covered trailer (although the doors won't quite close).  I suspect a Spitfire would
fit even with the doors closed.

I've done some flat towing for various reasons over the years, and it has always been surprisingly hard on the towed vehicle, even
if nothing breaks.  Every turn you make forces the towed car to flex some, which isn't good for it even if it doesn't break
anything.

Even if you have to buy a used trailer at one end, and resell it at the other, I think you'll be ahead in the long run.  Unless it's
someone else's car of course.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 19:16:29 2013
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From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 20:14:09 -0600
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Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_wiper_gear?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have a good wiper motor gear, or know of a substitute?
The guy who had this car seems to have put some other gear in because the wipers only go about halfway across the screen.
Thanks in advance!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 18:44:36 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Fuel Pump vs Tach Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I just installed a Pertronix and a Moss vacuum advance conversion to my
1974 TR6. I got it timed and now the tach cable can't connect because the top
of the fuel pump is in the way. Is there a way around this? 
     I expect
that I'll have to install an aftermarket electric fuel pump. I plan to use a
NAPA pump. I installed a Facet pump on my TR3 and the thing makes a terrible
racket sometimes. Is there an optimum location to put it and an easy terminal
to land the wires to the "switched" side of the circuit?
    Does Moss or
someone make a blanking plate for the mechanical pump location?

     My TR6
has vacuum lines and fittings going everywhere. It seems like now that the car
is smog exempt and I live in California that I could just remove it all and
blank off the ports, leaving only the vacuum advance. Is there any legitimate
reason for leaving all the vacuum/smog crap on the car? It all leaks anyway
from what I see.
     I have too many projects going at the same time. I am
rebuilding the TR3 engine (snapped crankshaft...), recommissioning a TR6 that
hasn't seen the road in 25 years and changing out a coil spring in a 1952
Triumph Renown. Good times.
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 29 19:54:55 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,	"Triumphs"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1385779476.61989.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 21:52:41 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Fuel Pump vs Tach Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

you should be able to rotate the cam driven gear that drives your 
distributor 1-2 teeth clockwise thus re-pointing your drive cable away from 
the fuel pump a bit.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 9:44 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Fuel Pump vs Tach Cable


>     I just installed a Pertronix and a Moss vacuum advance conversion to 
> my
> 1974 TR6. I got it timed and now the tach cable can't connect because the 
> top
> of the fuel pump is in the way. Is there a way around this?
>     I expect
> that I'll have to install an aftermarket electric fuel pump. I plan to use 
> a
> NAPA pump. I installed a Facet pump on my TR3 and the thing makes a 
> terrible
> racket sometimes. Is there an optimum location to put it and an easy 
> terminal
> to land the wires to the "switched" side of the circuit?
>    Does Moss or
> someone make a blanking plate for the mechanical pump location?
>
>     My TR6
> has vacuum lines and fittings going everywhere. It seems like now that the 
> car
> is smog exempt and I live in California that I could just remove it all 
> and
> blank off the ports, leaving only the vacuum advance. Is there any 
> legitimate
> reason for leaving all the vacuum/smog crap on the car? It all leaks 
> anyway
> from what I see.
>     I have too many projects going at the same time. I am
> rebuilding the TR3 engine (snapped crankshaft...), recommissioning a TR6 
> that
> hasn't seen the road in 25 years and changing out a coil spring in a 1952
> Triumph Renown. Good times.
>     TIA,
>
>     Bill Brewer
>     Tehachapi, CA
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 07:19:18 2013
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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 09:17:25 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>,  Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1385779476.61989.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Fuel Pump vs Tach Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill,

If you decide to go electric fuel pump, both the Facet and the NAPA do 
make some chatter. At least on my 3, 4 and 6, I dont hear it once the 
engine starts.

I have the them all mounted on the drivers side outside of the spare 
tire space. The 3 and 4 are mounted directly to the rear and on the 6 on 
the rear/left side.

Conventional wisdom says that they should be mounted as close to the gas 
tank as possible.

All 3 have a fuel filter before the pump and a Holley regulator mounted 
in the space where the AC fuel pump mounted. I also put a fuel filter 
before the regulator (overkill I guess).

In order to reduce the chatter, mount the pump with rubber washers.

I Think Joe Alexander can supply the blanking plates. If I remember 
correctly, I contacted him when I was looking for a plate for my TR4. I 
may have the first prototype in the 4. I went on his website, he has a 
link for the 3 - 4A but no mention of the 6. I am sure I got my 6 plate 
from him.

http://gasketinnovations.com/index.php/engine-components/product/58-fbs-t24

Bob

On 11/29/2013 09:44 PM, William Brewer wrote:
>       I just installed a Pertronix and a Moss vacuum advance conversion to my
> 1974 TR6. I got it timed and now the tach cable can't connect because the top
> of the fuel pump is in the way. Is there a way around this?
>       I expect
> that I'll have to install an aftermarket electric fuel pump. I plan to use a
> NAPA pump. I installed a Facet pump on my TR3 and the thing makes a terrible
> racket sometimes. Is there an optimum location to put it and an easy terminal
> to land the wires to the "switched" side of the circuit?
>      Does Moss or
> someone make a blanking plate for the mechanical pump location?
>
>       My TR6
> has vacuum lines and fittings going everywhere. It seems like now that the car
> is smog exempt and I live in California that I could just remove it all and
> blank off the ports, leaving only the vacuum advance. Is there any legitimate
> reason for leaving all the vacuum/smog crap on the car? It all leaks anyway
> from what I see.
>       I have too many projects going at the same time. I am
> rebuilding the TR3 engine (snapped crankshaft...), recommissioning a TR6 that
> hasn't seen the road in 25 years and changing out a coil spring in a 1952
> Triumph Renown. Good times.
>       TIA,
>
>       Bill Brewer
>       Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 16:15:08 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 18:12:58 -0500
References: <mailman.18.1385838004.25074.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 wiper gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That seems unlikely to me. Have you taken it apart? It may be the  
"wiper park" adjustment (round cap w/ a wire on the motor housing) or  
the gears of the wheel box (spindle that the arm attaches to) are  
stripped (Moss 145-217, illus. 15) and that will be a pain.

Allen

> Subject: [TR] TR4 wiper gear
> Does anyone have a good wiper motor gear, or know of a substitute?
> The guy who had this car seems to have put some other gear in  
> because the wipers only go about halfway across the screen.
> Thanks in advance!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 16:18:41 2013
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Allen Hess'" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18.1385838004.25074.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<vzD61m00R0NyJgq01zDBZG>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 15:16:40 -0800
Thread-Index: AQHksKGQON0oPl5xAOxdnKfrhH4/vwDeuJ7kmgvtCiA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 wiper gear
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Might want to check that you have the correct wheelboxes - they have
different gear sets for different applications, and I had mismatched ones on
a big healey once with similar results.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 3:13 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 wiper gear

That seems unlikely to me. Have you taken it apart? It may be the "wiper
park" adjustment (round cap w/ a wire on the motor housing) or the gears of
the wheel box (spindle that the arm attaches to) are stripped (Moss 145-217,
illus. 15) and that will be a pain.

Allen

> Subject: [TR] TR4 wiper gear
> Does anyone have a good wiper motor gear, or know of a substitute?
> The guy who had this car seems to have put some other gear in  
> because the wipers only go about halfway across the screen.
> Thanks in advance!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr@cox.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 18:49:40 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 EGR Valve & Misc Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Is there any reason to retain the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
on a 1974 TR6? It just seems like a power robbing monstrosity that needs to go
away. I am considering removing it and blanking it all off. I am planning on
using the vacuum port on the aft carburetor for my newly installed vacuum
advance.

     My ignition switch is intermittent. Frequently you have to turn
it on about 5 or 10 times before the starter spins. At the same time, when the
"fasten seats belts" light comes on the car will begin to start. I am guessing
that it is the 1974 only device that requires the seat belts to be fastened
before the car will start. My car is missing the seat belts, but still starts.
I'll investigate it further tomorrow, but maybe it is something else. Does
anyone have any other ideas? I found the Dan Master's write-up on bypassing
the switch.

     There is the thermostatic switch on the top radiator hose.
It appears to be full of vacuum leaks. I am considering replacing it with  an
earlier one piece hose and blanking off the vacuum ports. I would also blank
off where the hot water circulates through the carbs. Is there any advantage
to the thermostatic switch causing heating water to circulate through the ZS
carbs? It seems like more power robbing smog equipment that worked marginally
at best. If it does something useful then I'll fix it and keep it.

     The
anti-run on valve seems to be always on and running my battery down. Today I
connected the battery and I can hear it click on. Can someone explain to me
how this works and how I might fix it? Do they work? Is it worth fixing or
should it be bypassed?

     I need to grease the rear half shafts. I see in
the manual that there should be a zerk fitting on each U-joint. Does that also
lubricate the splines? Can you peel over the boots to get to the U-joint zerks
or does that ruin the boots?

     My apologies for the barrage of questions.
The car sat for 25 years and I am trying to wake it back up. I am used to the
simplicity of my TR3 and frustrated by the TR6 until I get used to it.

   
 TIA,

     -Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 20:54:33 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter.  Put Sta-bil gas preservative like I do each winter.  Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas tank.  I can see it.  Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc.  Anyone have any idea how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?


Craig
1972 Triumph TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 20:05:23 2013
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References: <23597814.320022.1385866473369.JavaMail.root@vznit170182>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 20:03:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: thenicholls@verizon.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't think it will dissolve.

A tool like this Grabbing
Tool<http://www.plumbingsupply.com/tools.html#handyhand>may be able to
get it.  I have one that is useful for getting me out of
assorted jams.

In addition to Sta-Bil, when a car will be idle for a spell I clamp off the
fuel line and run the carbs dry.

Geo


On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 7:54 PM, <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:

> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter.  Put Sta-bil gas preservative
> like I do each winter.  Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas
> tank.  I can see it.  Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc.  Anyone have any
> idea how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 20:07:57 -0700
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 11/30/13, 7:54 PM, thenicholls@verizon.net wrote:
> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter.  Put Sta-bil gas preservative like I do each winter.  Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas tank.  I can see it.  Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc.  Anyone have any idea how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
The first thing I would try is suction.  Put a large gas can on the 
floor beside the fuel tank. Get a hose and start siphoning the fuel into 
the tank.  Try to capture the flat of the cardboard with the siphon hose 
end.  Or if the cardboard were small enough and the hose wide enough 
maybe you can vacuum it up.

My TR3 doesn't hibernate well.  In between snow storms if the snow is 
melted off the road, my TR comes out to play.  Mind you I have to bundle 
up well, but it is worth it.  And there is often hot chocolate  to be 
made when I get home since it is likely in the mid 30's when I'm out 
driving.
TeriAnn

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References: <23597814.320022.1385866473369.JavaMail.root@vznit170182>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 20:42:03 -0700
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd use a grabber/claw tool.  If you don't have one, they're cheap and
do the job every few years when it's needed.

Like this.  They're available everywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385869144&sr=8-2&keywords=flexible+grabber+tool

On 11/30/13, thenicholls@verizon.net <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:
> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter.  Put Sta-bil gas preservative like
> I do each winter.  Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas tank.
>  I can see it.  Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc.  Anyone have any idea
> how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 21:46:01 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Fuel Pump vs Tach Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe the blanking plate for a small block chevy works as well.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 30 21:43:26 2013
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Don Hiscock'" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <23597814.320022.1385866473369.JavaMail.root@vznit170182>
	<CAPK7CFAP7Xs8YZFqJXgX7oKpJJ_h8d3_NoQqFpegvNH+wWqjow@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 22:40:38 -0600
Thread-index: Ac7uR61s4IYt6WcpQFONpduBQoQogwABOq6Q
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have one like that, except for that it has a small LED light on the end
that activates when you open the claw.  Very handy in dark spaces.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 9:42 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question

I'd use a grabber/claw tool.  If you don't have one, they're cheap and do
the job every few years when it's needed.

Like this.  They're available everywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY/r
ef=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385869144&sr=8-2&keywords=flexible+grabber+tool

On 11/30/13, thenicholls@verizon.net <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:
> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter.  Put Sta-bil gas preservative 
> like I do each winter.  Cardboard piece from the top went down into the
gas tank.
>  I can see it.  Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc.  Anyone have any 
> idea how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2013 22:26:07 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pump Rebuild
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I am rebuilding my TR3 engine. I was very happy with the oil pressure put
out by the pump previously. It all specs out in the Haynes manual test and
appears to be barely worn. I have also read online that some of the modern
pumps have the rotors pressed on instead of pinned on. Apparently, the pressed
on rotors can have catastrophic failure. Mine is pressed on. I am thinking
about drilling it out for a pin and tapping it and using a setscrew and
Locktite.     
     Looking online for rebuild kits, the photo at BPNW clearly
shows a pinned rotor. Has anyone else bought a rotor kit with a pinned rotor?
     I have the original worn out oil pump for the car. It was held together
with 7/16 bolts with screw slots in the heads. The oil pump that I have been
running (with pressed on rotor) is held together with metric 8.8 bolts. That
is probably something to watch out for.
     
     -Bill Brewer

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