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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 11:13:55 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Got a grabber tool from Advance Auto and got it out.


Thanks to all, 


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 11/30/13, Don Hiscock<don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:
 
I'd use a grabber/claw tool. If you don't have one, they're cheap and
do the job every few years when it's needed.

Like this. They're available everywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385869144&sr=8-2&keywords=flexible+grabber+tool

On 11/30/13, thenicholls@verizon.net <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:
> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter. Put Sta-bil gas preservative like
> I do each winter. Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas tank.
> I can see it. Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc. Anyone have any idea
> how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 10:26:26 2013
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To: thenicholls@verizon.net,Triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 11:24:13 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Stupid_question?=
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Desperation breeds innovation.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Stupid question
Date: Sun, Dec 1, 2013 11:13 am


 Got a grabber tool from Advance Auto and got it out.


Thanks to all, 


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 11/30/13, Don Hiscock<don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:
 
I'd use a grabber/claw tool. If you don't have one, they're cheap and
do the job every few years when it's needed.

Like this. They're available everywhere.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385869144&sr=8-2&keywords=flexible+grabber+tool

On 11/30/13, thenicholls@verizon.net <thenicholls@verizon.net> wrote:
> Putting my 72 TR6 to bed for the winter. Put Sta-bil gas preservative like
> I do each winter. Cardboard piece from the top went down into the gas tank.
> I can see it. Tried a pin, coat hanger, tape, etc. Anyone have any idea
> how to remove it, or should I hope it dissolves over the winter?
>
>
> Craig
> 1972 Triumph TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 10:35:54 2013
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 10:33:32 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <20131201172639.B503242F57@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 12/1/13, 10:24 AM, spook01@comcast.net wrote:
> Desperation breeds innovation.
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: thenicholls@verizon.net
>
>   Got a grabber tool from Advance Auto and got it out.
>
>
Innovation?  It is just the male need to obtain more tools.  A simple 
siphon and empty gas can would have gotten it out without having to go 
out and buy more tools.  Guys and their tools!

geesh

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 10:56:27 2013
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And thus the world was built....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Stupid question
Date: Sun, Dec 1, 2013 11:33 am


On 12/1/13, 10:24 AM, spook01@comcast.net wrote:
> Desperation breeds innovation.
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: thenicholls@verizon.net
>
>   Got a grabber tool from Advance Auto and got it out.
>
>
Innovation?  It is just the male need to obtain more tools.  A simple siphon and empty gas can would have gotten it out without having to go out and buy more tools.  Guys and their tools!

geesh

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 18:45:12 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20131201172639.B503242F57@autox.team.net>
	<529B72EC.80700@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 19:42:46 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
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" Innovation?  It is just the male need to obtain more tools.  A simple 
siphon and empty gas can would have gotten it out without having to go
 out and buy more tools.  Guys and their tools!

 geesh

TeriAnn"

Actually I have a grabber tool, but I don't have a siphon, I better head 
down to Harbor Freight get one tomorrow,  Thanks for the tip TeriAnn......

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 19:14:13 2013
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 20:11:04 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 My wife calls me a "tool" sometimes, now I know what she means.


And TeriAnn, don't worry, I drive the TR all winter, whenever I can, wherever I can.  One thing about our cars, they do not like not being driven.


Craig
 
 
On 12/01/13, Greg Lemon<glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
 
" Innovation? It is just the male need to obtain more tools. A simple 
siphon and empty gas can would have gotten it out without having to go
 out and buy more tools. Guys and their tools!

 geesh

TeriAnn"

Actually I have a grabber tool, but I don't have a siphon, I better head 
down to Harbor Freight get one tomorrow, Thanks for the tip TeriAnn......

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 19:44:43 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 02:41:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: suhringtr36@comcast.net
To: Triumph Mail List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
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Subject: [TR] CD of ST Newsletters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone send me the contact information to purchase the CD that contains the Standard Triumph Newsletters?  I thought I had my saved delete messages at unlimited by it was at 7 days.  Thanks.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 20:38:27 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Wiring Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     My gas gauge and temperature gauge don't work. I checked the voltage
stabilizer with the car running and there is no voltage to it (using a test
light). I have 12 volts + at the fuse box for the green wire. In between the
fuse box and the voltage stabilizer it looks like there is a 5 branch junction
for the green circuit. Where is this located in the car? My underdash wiring
is a mess.
     TIA,

     Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 22:03:08 2013
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 22:00:54 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
	Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1385959107.29769.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 TR6 Wiring Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/1/13, 9:38 PM, William Brewer wrote:
>       My gas gauge and temperature gauge don't work. I checked the voltage
> stabilizer with the car running and there is no voltage to it (using a test
> light). I have 12 volts + at the fuse box for the green wire. In between the
> fuse box and the voltage stabilizer it looks like there is a 5 branch junction
> for the green circuit. Where is this located in the car? My underdash wiring
> is a mess.
>       TIA,
>
I can't help you find the wire in your rats nest but the dark green wire 
is the one that provides voltage to the stabilizer.  The light green 
ones are the ones that go to the gauges.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 04:02:58 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 11:00:39 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "suhringtr36@comcast.net" <suhringtr36@comcast.net>, Triumph Mail
	List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] CD of ST Newsletters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

info@tssc.org.uk wiII get you there and I recommend you mark the emaiI for the
attention of Garth Jupp. I've mislaid his own email address

Jonmac



On
Monday, 2 December 2013, 2:44, "suhringtr36@comcast.net"
<suhringtr36@comcast.net> wrote:
  
Could someone send me the contact
information to purchase the CD that contains the Standard Triumph
Newsletters?  I thought I had my saved delete messages at unlimited by it was
at 7 days.  Thanks.
>
>Scott Suhring
>Mechanicsburg, PA
>'70 TR6
>'59 TR3A
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john@yahoo.co.uk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 06:15:51 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 08:13:36 -0500 (EST)
To: wsb1960tr3a@att.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1385990016;
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Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 TR6 Wiring Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Do your windshield washers work?  According to the diagram from Dan masters 
power for the washers are fed from a daisy chain connection from the 
stabilizer.  The stabilizer is fed from a mega-splice that also feeds the heater 
fan, overdrive, reverse lights, brake lights and the turn signals.  If all of 
those are working then I would suspect a broken (or cut) wire between the 
splice and the stabilizer.  

Dave

In a message dated 12/1/2013 10:38:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
wsb1960tr3a@att.net writes: 
>      My gas gauge and temperature gauge don't work. I checked the voltage
> stabilizer with the car running and there is no voltage to it (using a 
> test
> light). I have 12 volts + at the fuse box for the green wire. In between 
> the
> fuse box and the voltage stabilizer it looks like there is a 5 branch 
> junction
> for the green circuit. Where is this located in the car? My underdash 
> wiring
> is a mess.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 07:30:59 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 08:28:33 -0600
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.22
	with any abuse report
	/usr/local/cpanel/base/3rdparty/squirrelmail/src/compose.php 
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 TR6 Wiring Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This will help a lot:
  http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf&#8206;

 Lee


>      My gas gauge and temperature gauge don't work. I checked the voltage
> stabilizer with the car running and there is no voltage to it (using a test
> light). I have 12 volts + at the fuse box for the green wire. In between the
> fuse box and the voltage stabilizer it looks like there is a 5 branch junction
> for the green circuit. Where is this located in the car? My underdash wiring
> is a mess.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 07:35:18 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 08:32:56 -0600
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee@automate-it.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.22
	with any abuse report
	/usr/local/cpanel/base/3rdparty/squirrelmail/src/compose.php 
Cc: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 1974 TR6 Wiring Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You probably figured it out, but the url got munged in my previous post.
Correct one is:
   http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

Lee

> This will help a lot:
>   http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf&#8206;
>
>  Lee
>
>
>>      My gas gauge and temperature gauge don't work. I checked the voltage
>> stabilizer with the car running and there is no voltage to it (using a test
>> light). I have 12 volts + at the fuse box for the green wire. In between the
>> fuse box and the voltage stabilizer it looks like there is a 5 branch
>> junction
>> for the green circuit. Where is this located in the car? My underdash wiring
>> is a mess.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 08:48:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 10:46:18 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:

>Innovation?  It is just the male need to obtain more tools.  A simple
siphon and empty gas can would have gotten it out >without having to go out
and buy more tools.  Guys and their tools!

 

Sounds like a case of "tool envy".

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U   

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 09:03:47 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 11:01:59 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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If there is one thing I have learned over the past 40 or more years of 
Triumph ownership, restoration, and maintenance is that things will be 
easier if you have the correct tool for the job.

I am not saying more is better but when I had to tighten the steering 
wheel nut a few weeks ago, my old method of a channel lock would not fit 
the bill. The correct socket attached to my impact wrench was needed so 
a new socket was added to the collection.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 09:07:24 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid question
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On 12/2/13, 8:46 AM, Dennis Culligan wrote:
> TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
>> Innovation?  It is just the male need to obtain more tools.  A simple
> Guys and their tools!
>
> Sounds like a case of "tool envy".
>
I have a plastic toolbox for house specific tools.  A second plastic 
toolbox for seldom needed car tools, such as a Myti-vac, the special 
tool for cleaning the overdrive screen and the special tool for 
tightening the main output shaft on the back of a Series Land Rover 
transfercase.

The rest of my tools are kept in a surplus 30mm ammo case. They all fit 
in there with a couple shop rags to keep them from bouncing around.  
Well almost as the torque wrench and breaker bar are too long to fit in 
the box.  When I go on long trips I just pop the ammo case in the 
vehicle of choice.

No I'm not a tool collector and probably have more house remodeling 
tools than car tools since I've all but finished a house remodel.

But I do have a nice collection of 20L, 10L and 5L NATO style jerrycans.

TeriAnn
1960 Land Rover Dormobile
1961 Triumph TR3

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 11:34:53 2013
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2013 12:32:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Carl TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] CD of ST Newsletters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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When you get the details - could you post to the list.  Others might be interested.
 

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida
 
 
On 12/02/13, John Macartney wrote:

info@tssc.org.uk wiII get you there and I recommend you mark the emaiI for the
attention of Garth Jupp. I've mislaid his own email address

Jonmac



On
Monday, 2 December 2013, 2:44, "suhringtr36@comcast.net"
<suhringtr36@comcast.net> wrote:

Could someone send me the contact
information to purchase the CD that contains the Standard Triumph
Newsletters? I thought I had my saved delete messages at unlimited by it was
at 7 days. Thanks.
>
>Scott Suhring
>Mechanicsburg, PA
>'70 TR6
>'59 TR3A
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 17:11:14 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 19:08:34 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7vu8soYi8csqbZSpKABgGMp6ma/g==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Gearbox Woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I had
the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.  It is getting
near impossible to find folks to rebuild without shipping.  Considering the
HVDA conversion with an 82-85 Celica gearbox.  My question is how satisfied
are folks who have done this conversion and how is the pedal feel with the
hydraulic throw-out bearing? 

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 17:25:44 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 16:23:22 -0800
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I found the clutch on the conversion I drove to have very short pickup without
much feel (sort of like flipping a switch). That said, the car drove and
shifted very well

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 2, 2013, at 4:08 PM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I had
> the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.  It is getting
> near impossible to find folks to rebuild without shipping.  Considering the
> HVDA conversion with an 82-85 Celica gearbox.  My question is how satisfied
> are folks who have done this conversion and how is the pedal feel with the
> hydraulic throw-out bearing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 18:20:22 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 20:17:51 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm going on 6 years with the HVDA conversion with an '83 Celica tranny and 
love it. The clutch feel is great..... not too heavy or too light and you 
can adjust the amount of throw and take up point.........within certain 
parameters. It's a true drop in kit with no mods needed. You can see my 
installation here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5Speed.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 7:08 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Gearbox Woes

My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I had
the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.  It is getting
near impossible to find folks to rebuild without shipping.  Considering the
HVDA conversion with an 82-85 Celica gearbox.  My question is how satisfied
are folks who have done this conversion and how is the pedal feel with the
hydraulic throw-out bearing?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
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On 12/2/2013 7:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I had
> the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.

I'm a little confused...  "J-type" implies overdrive, but you mention 
syncros, which aren't attached to the overdrive.

I assume it only grinds when using the shift lever?

And were the springs and balls checked for proper tension when the 
syncros were replaced?


Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 19:26:33 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Jeff'" <fishplate@charter.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
	<529D3B2A.5070009@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 21:24:02 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the posts to date.  I just use the jtype od to describe my whole
tranny.  The OD works fine.  I had heard that the forks could have been bent
and that could cause a similar problem and that I could try a different top
cover, which I have to see if that works.  Just hadn't gotten around to it.
jim  

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 9:00 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes

On 12/2/2013 7:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  
> I had the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.

I'm a little confused...  "J-type" implies overdrive, but you mention
syncros, which aren't attached to the overdrive.

I assume it only grinds when using the shift lever?

And were the springs and balls checked for proper tension when the syncros
were replaced?


Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 20:03:48 2013
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 19:01:21 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
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Love my HVDA conversion. Clutch feels a little softer but not by much. I put
in Goodpart's Nissan differential too so the drive shaft is fixed and
doesn't slide, otherwise it's a bolt-in.

Johnnie
67 TR4A-IRS

> 
> My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I
> had the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.  It is
> getting near impossible to find folks to rebuild without shipping.
> Considering the HVDA conversion with an 82-85 Celica gearbox.  My
> question is how satisfied are folks who have done this conversion and
> how is the pedal feel with the hydraulic throw-out bearing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> 
> Ocala FL
> 
> 62 TR4
> 
> 75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 07:37:49 2013
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From: "Triumph" <tr3abobm77@frontier.com>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 09:35:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been using the Eagle Gate transmission conversion kit from
http://www.eaglegatellc.com for almost 2 years now and it works great. The
clutch remains the same as stock as the new bell housing is configured the
same as the stock Triumph is. It is also cheaper as there is nothing else to
buy. $1300 plus shipping.

Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77@frontier.com

--------------------------------------------------
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 7:08 PM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Gearbox Woes

> My J-type in the TR6 is grinding above 4000 rpm in second and third.  I had
> the German syncros put in to fix the problem, but it didn't.  It is getting
> near impossible to find folks to rebuild without shipping.  Considering the
> HVDA conversion with an 82-85 Celica gearbox.  My question is how satisfied
> are folks who have done this conversion and how is the pedal feel with the
> hydraulic throw-out bearing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77@frontier.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3629/6886 - Release Date: 12/02/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 14:52:17 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7waYoJ3xsN6kE7QmuMwX9uCtBYAA==
Subject: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3.  What is the
collective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & I?  His
concern of course is that the car is everything that I say it 
is in appearance and mechanically.   I have sent many pictures and feel he
is close to making a decision but not 100% sure.
 
Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.
 
BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint)
http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/4205450858.html
 
 
Thanks,
Bill 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L 
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"

"Keep Calm and Carry On"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 14:14:26 2013
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 14:11:20 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Bill_Beecher <bill_beecher@flash.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill -

I have been on the other end of this on two occasions... buying British
cars sight-unseen.  Both outcomes were excellent but it is not an approach
for the faint of heart.

If the potential buyer speaks good English then long phone conversation may
help put him at ease and lend credibility to all you say.

An offer to provide close-up detailed photos of any areas of concern may be
helpful if you have not already done that.

A third-party inspection could be useful though he may not be in a position
to arrange this and having you set up the inspection might compromise its
impartiality.

You could send him a link to your 420 emails in the list archives:  The
Best of Bill<http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/cgi-bin/namazu.cgi?query=Beecher&submit=Search%21&idxname=triumphs&max=20&result=normal&sort=score>
so he can see what you were asking about and sweating over in the past vis
a vis this car (and also get a sense of you & how you operate).

Sorry to see it go -- hope there is a German/Dutch/French word for Tarbaby
that he can use.

Geo



On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 1:52 PM, <bill_beecher@flash.net> wrote:

> I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3.  What is
> the
> collective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & I?  His
> concern of course is that the car is everything that I say it
> is in appearance and mechanically.   I have sent many pictures and feel he
> is close to making a decision but not 100% sure.
>
> Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.
>
> BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint)
> http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/4205450858.html
>
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
>  <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
>
> "Keep Calm and Carry On"
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:21:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 18:18:29 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <5318743474DA498282908B3FD54458B2@bboffice>
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/3/2013 3:52 PM, bill_beecher@flash.net wrote:
> Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.

I sold a rusty old VW Campmobile to a guy in the UK.  Plenty of 
pictures, a couple of phone conversations, and some more pictures, and 
he was happy.  He sent the money first (via PayPal), and then arranged 
to have the car picked up.

It dawned on me at that point that he sent money without any positive 
proof that the car even existed...except my word for it.

So, there is an element of trust on the part of both the buyer and the 
seller.  But my experience was as smooth as can be.  the suggestion to 
point to your online history is a great one...should help ease the 
buyer's mind.

(And I sold that old VW for enough to buy a nice TR6!)

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 16:24:34 2013
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 18:22:11 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <00ac01ceefbb$d5137cb0$7f3a7610$@gmail.com>
	<D8C4F705533A420EB515FDCCC454DEBB@zora>
Subject: Re: [TR] Gearbox Woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/3/2013 9:35 AM, Triumph wrote:
>   The
> clutch remains the same as stock as the new bell housing is configured the
> same as the stock Triumph is. It is also cheaper as there is nothing else to
> buy.

Except the transmission?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 23:31:36 2013
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 06:28:57 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: bill beecher <bill_beecher@flash.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You already know how I handled my Lotus purchase, but Europe is a whole nother kettle of fish.  

I know how cashier checks work here in the USA, and I know how not to be afraid of them, but internationally moving money is something totally (pardon the pun) foreign to me.

If your buyer is reading this, I will attest to the high quality of the work you have done to the car, having seen it before and after.  There is a probably a well-known car-inspection outfit in your part of Texas.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "bill beecher" <bill_beecher@flash.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 2:52:17 PM
> Subject: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
> I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3. What
> is the
> collective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & I? His
> concern of course is that the car is everything that I say it
> is in appearance and mechanically. I have sent many pictures and feel
> he
> is close to making a decision but not 100% sure.
> 
> Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.
> 
> BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint)
> http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/4205450858.html
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> 
> "Keep Calm and Carry On"
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	UTC
From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: <pethier@comcast.net>
References: <5318743474DA498282908B3FD54458B2@bboffice>
	<852671651.615306.1386138537465.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 00:51:26 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7wuh2CaZ/+X4N9QG2P4gYxAi55MAAAck5g
Cc: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you Phil for your kind endorsement.  Nobody within 150 miles to do an
independent inspection, oddly the prospective buyer has not brought that up.
Of course he has seen many before and after pictures.

I consulted a friend this afternoon who has sold cars into England and he
states that he was always paid up front via wire transfer, which is best for
everyone's record keeping. 

Have not closed the sale as yet, but getting close.

Thanks,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On



-----Original Message-----
From: pethier@comcast.net [mailto:pethier@comcast.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 12:29 AM
To: bill beecher
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale

You already know how I handled my Lotus purchase, but Europe is a whole
nother kettle of fish.  

I know how cashier checks work here in the USA, and I know how not to be
afraid of them, but internationally moving money is something totally
(pardon the pun) foreign to me.

If your buyer is reading this, I will attest to the high quality of the work
you have done to the car, having seen it before and after.  There is a
probably a well-known car-inspection outfit in your part of Texas.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "bill beecher" <bill_beecher@flash.net>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 2:52:17 PM
> Subject: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
> I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3. What 
> is the collective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & 
> I? His concern of course is that the car is everything that I say it 
> is in appearance and mechanically. I have sent many pictures and feel 
> he is close to making a decision but not 100% sure.
> 
> Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.
> 
> BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint) 
> http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/4205450858.html
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) 
> <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> 
> "Keep Calm and Carry On"
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 13:46:32 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Alan Myers <amfoto1@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bill,

You might want to look into an escrow service. Just be sure it's a good one
with a solid track record. An escrow service accepts the buyer's money and
holds it until the seller ships the item, the buyer has received and inspected
it to their satisfaction, at which time they release the money to the seller.
It's a safer transaction for all involved. Ask around for recommendations of
one to handle international transactions.

Beware! Last time I checked, cashier checks and money orders can be
particularly risky internationally... They can take up to a month to clear
(usually clear in a few days when drawn on a local bank) so fakes are often
used in scams... You don't find out the int'l cashiers check or money order is
no good until weeks after you have shipped the item. Then you are out both the
car (or whatever you sold) and the cost of shipping as your bank will deduct
from your account. There is virtually no recourse because the scammers move on
quickly with new identities. This scam especially targets high ticket items
such as automobiles on Craigslist. Beware particularly of "buyers" who send a
check or money order for more than the originally agreed sale price and
shipping costs, and ask you to refund any remainder. They are trying to get
some of your money, too, on top of everything else.

If handled directly (not thru an escrow service), I'd recommend a wire
transfer instead.... as the funds are immediately moved into your account and
your bank can verify quickly for you. Wire transfer might be called something
else internationally. There are several terms for it here in the U.S., too.
This method protects you, but not the buyer.

You might check with your bank. It's possible that they can suggest something
even better. At the very least will have the latest info (my info is some
years out of date!)

If a would-be buyer won't agree to an escrow or direct wire transfer or some
other means your bank recommends, run away quickly!


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L
http://www.triumphowners.com/640
2009 Triumphest:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/sets/7215762667367728

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 14:52:17 -0600
From: <bill_beecher@flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Overseas TR Sale

I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3.  What is
thecollective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & I?
Hisconcern of course is that the car is everything that I say it is in
appearance and mechanically.   I have sent many pictures and feel heis close
to making a decision but not 100% sure. Would love to hear from someone who
has BTDT. BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint)

Thanks,Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566>
 www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"

"Keep Calm and Carry On"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 14:34:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 16:32:16 -0500 (EST)
From: "ARNOLD " <asg123@centurylink.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 1966 TR4A Front suspension
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

To those in the know. It has come to time to rebuild or replace 
my TR4A's front suspension. Looking at the big 3 came up with a 
new steering rack from VB that would cost me less than my parts 
and labor to rebuild. Have not done much business with them in the past 
15 years or so. They will give out little information about origin of the rack or much else. 
So if anyone has used this rack, part # 5-5947, or the quick turn rack I would like to solicit 
your opinions. Also will be replacing shocks and " Autoplicity " seems to have good prices on the Koni shocks 
for are cars. Has anyone had any experience with Autoplicity ? I remain on the digest. 
Thanks for any help. My current email is asg123@ centurylink .net Arnold Gilmour 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 15:02:01 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14.1386183602.21237.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8D0BF48B44997EF-A5C-AAB8@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 15:58:13 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

just remember, if they have enough info to make a deposit, they have enough 
info to remove money.  set up a separate account for this.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Alan Myers
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 2:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale

Hi Bill,

You might want to look into an escrow service. Just be sure it's a good one
with a solid track record. An escrow service accepts the buyer's money and
holds it until the seller ships the item, the buyer has received and 
inspected
it to their satisfaction, at which time they release the money to the 
seller.
It's a safer transaction for all involved. Ask around for recommendations of
one to handle international transactions.

Beware! Last time I checked, cashier checks and money orders can be
particularly risky internationally... They can take up to a month to clear
(usually clear in a few days when drawn on a local bank) so fakes are often
used in scams... You don't find out the int'l cashiers check or money order 
is
no good until weeks after you have shipped the item. Then you are out both 
the
car (or whatever you sold) and the cost of shipping as your bank will deduct
from your account. There is virtually no recourse because the scammers move 
on
quickly with new identities. This scam especially targets high ticket items
such as automobiles on Craigslist. Beware particularly of "buyers" who send 
a
check or money order for more than the originally agreed sale price and
shipping costs, and ask you to refund any remainder. They are trying to get
some of your money, too, on top of everything else.

If handled directly (not thru an escrow service), I'd recommend a wire
transfer instead.... as the funds are immediately moved into your account 
and
your bank can verify quickly for you. Wire transfer might be called 
something
else internationally. There are several terms for it here in the U.S., too.
This method protects you, but not the buyer.

You might check with your bank. It's possible that they can suggest 
something
even better. At the very least will have the latest info (my info is some
years out of date!)

If a would-be buyer won't agree to an escrow or direct wire transfer or some
other means your bank recommends, run away quickly!


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
'62 TR4 CT17602L 

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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 17:57:00 -0500
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@indiefilmnet.com>
To: "'bill_beecher@flash.net'" <bill_beecher@flash.net>,  'Triumphs'
	<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: IndieFIlmNet
Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas TR Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a government-licensed inspection site in your area? He could speak to
them and schedule an inspection with the report sent directly to him.

For payment; only a direct wire transfer is unlikely to rebound due to fraud
at a later date. Lately banks are putting holds on every possible type of
paper document due to overseas difficulties. Someone mentioned an escrow
service earlier. That sounds reasonable, but I have never used one.

Best luck,

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of bill_beecher@flash.net
Sent: December-03-13 3:52 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Overseas TR Sale

I have an individual in Europe interested in purchasing my TR3.  What is the
collective wisdom to make this transaction safe for both he & I?  His
concern of course is that the car is everything that I say it
is in appearance and mechanically.   I have sent many pictures and feel he
is close to making a decision but not 100% sure.

Would love to hear from someone who has BTDT.

BTW, I would love for the car to stay in the US (hint, hint)
http://abilene.craigslist.org/cto/4205450858.html


Thanks,
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 14:29:58 2013
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From: Martin Secrest <moira.secrest@verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2013 15:11:55 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Rear Drum Backing Plate: Removing?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm trying to remove a late Spitfire left rear drum backing plate. It's the
plate on which the brake pads sit; four half-inch bolt heads, each with two
locking tabs.

It is possible only to get an open box wrench on these bolts, and they are not
moving, probably rusted. Any tricks or hints to get them out, or am I missing
something?  I have to take off the backing plates because I am converting this
halfshaft to GT6 brake drum, which is larger. Thanks.

Martin Secrest
73 GT6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 06:57:27 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 13:18:20 +0000 (UTC)
From: spamiam@comcast.net
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Subject: [TR] anyone have a 7 degree ball joint taper reamer?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a slightly damaged female taper on my TR7's front strut ball joint. The retaining nut seems to not have been properly torqued down many miles (5000?) ago (by a mechanic, not by me!). I found the taper joint was loose when I started to disassemble the suspension to upgrade the springs and shocks. 

The female taper fitting LOOKS fine, but there was shiny metal at the top edge and bottom edge of the female taper, and slightly rusty looking metal in the center. I test fitted a new ball joint with just hand twisting of the taper, and it seemed to seat securely, but maybe not with as wide an interference area as normal based on removal of magic marker that I put on the female taper surface . 

So, I think I need to clean up the taper just a little... a couple of thou. I think a hand reamer would do the job. By my measurements of the new tapered stud, the taper is a 1.5 inch (7.15 degree), which is probably the most common taper. New reamers cost about $100. It is hard for me to spend that $ on a tool I am likely to use once, for about 5 minutes. Does anyone have one I can borrow? 

-Tony 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 12:35:02 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 13:26:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

anyone know anything about garage door openers?

mine works some of the time.

the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then it
closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an urgent
issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.

does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
<grin>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 12:37:19 2013
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 13:34:32 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 I would adjust the sensors if so equipped.  You may have hit one and not even
know it.


Next, adjust tension of door, it is adjustable per your manual.


You opener also has an adjustment.


If that fails, get a garage door tuneup, be sure to use some coupon.


Craig
72 TR6


On 12/06/13, Dave<dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

anyone know anything about garage door openers?

mine works some of the time.

the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops. hit it again then it
closes. if I pull the release I can open the door no problem. not an urgent
issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.

does it just need grease or something? or should I replace it? doesnbt
seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
<grin>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls@verizon.nett

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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 12:55:30 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <A28DD489F6764CDF89AE4C69BC7D6A10@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
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Dave wrote:
>   doesnb't
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly I'm a mechanic
> <grin>
>
>

I always let a pro work on the door if it involves the springs. Those 
things are dangerous!

mjb.

ps:  I think there was a discussion on this in the shop-talk list. You 
may want to check the
       archives.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 15:27:00 -0500
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
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To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, 'Triumph Mail List'
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

Not knowing your brand, mine are Liftmasters...

Does the light blink when it stops too soon.  I'm sure you know if it 
does, something obstructed it.

Mine has an adjustment screw that accommodates  up and down "resistance" 
. It is up on the unit under  a cover panel. I've had to adjust mine a 
couple of times over about 15 years..

Googel thsi term "garage door opener troubleshooting"  and you'll get 
lost of hits.

Let me know how it goes.

Doug
If you do not have a manual, you gan find one online.
On 12/6/2013 2:26 PM, Dave wrote:
> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>
> mine works some of the time.
>
> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then it
> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an urgent
> issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.
>
> does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
> <grin>

-- 

p.s. I do not use a smart phone so if you email me and do not get a quick response it is not because I am ignoring you. Just not at a computer.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 14:49:07 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 12:27:42 -0800
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sound like your "limit" screws need adjusting.  Somewhere on the opener you
will see 2 dials or screws, one for up, one for down.  You can adjust the
power for the travel up or down.  They are a safety feature, you want enough
power to open/ close the door bot not enough to crush kids

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2013, at 11:26 AM, "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>
> mine works some of the time.
>
> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then
it
> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an
urgent
> issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.
>
> does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
> <grin>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr@cox.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 14:50:15 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Dave'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <yKYs1m0250NyJgq01KYujA>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 13:04:35 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7yufcrONW3mI5pR7SvWyzFedv3xgABAgBw
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Get yourself a spray can of silicon lubricant and spray all the rollers and
tracks.  If it is a worm-gear type (rather than a chain drive), spray a
little on the gear.  See if that helps.

This time of year when the weather turns cooler, the things start to bind,
especially when they have been lubricated with a grease that hardens when it
gets cold.

Joe C.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 12:27 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] very off topic

anyone know anything about garage door openers?

mine works some of the time.

the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then
it
closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an
urgent
issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.

does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
<grin>

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 15:41:23 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 15:59:32 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386363573;
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Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Most, if not all, openers have a spring loaded limit switch that will shut 
the system down if there is a hang-up.  I suspect that it is responding to 
an increasing stiffness in the system.  It may be, as you say, in need of 
grease.  Or maybe the spring adjustment has backed off a bit.  I'd start there. 
 If the door is opening easily then it probably is the opener.

Dave

In a message dated 12/6/2013 1:31:23 PM Central Standard Time, 
dave@ranteer.com writes: 
> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
> 
> mine works some of the time.
> 
> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then 
> it
> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an 
> urgent
> issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.
> 
> does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 20:51:05 2013
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  smtp.auth=rbtr3a@cox.net
From: "ronnie babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>
To: "triumphs2 TRlist " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 21:38:30 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7y9HZ7Mk/KoAeEQEi6nKr/TWCAZg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is what I have 

 

Wires

 

Yellow/Green

Yellow/purple

Brown

White

 

I have 2 different relays both say they are 6RA the original looking one
has

 

double C1

single C2

single W1

 

the newer 6RA relay has the same configuration but one addition terminal it
looks like it is labeled WC

 

can someone tell me which  wires goes to the correct terminals

 

ronnie

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 22:48:03 2013
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <A28DD489F6764CDF89AE4C69BC7D6A10@Datsun>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 23:53:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, i just went through this, with similar symptoms. If adjusting 
theforce/limit screws doesn't help, remove the rear cover if you can . I 
found that the plastic(!) drive gears in mine were essentially devoid of 
teeth.
Hope it's just an adjustment in your case.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 2:26 PM
Subject: [TR] very off topic


> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>
> mine works some of the time.
>
> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again then 
> it
> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an 
> urgent
> issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.
>
> does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?  doesnbt
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a mechanic
> <grin>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 01:25:22 2013
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	Dec 2013 07:25:48 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'ronnie babbitt'" <rbtr3a@cox.net>, "'triumphs2 TRlist '"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 23:25:45 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7y9HZ7Mk/KoAeEQEi6nKr/TWCAZgAJx4Gw
Subject: Re: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I have 2 different relays both say they are 6RA the original 
> looking one
> has
> 
> double C1
> 
> single C2
> 
> single W1

Look again, Ronnie.  I think you will find that there is a W2 as well as a W1.  6RA relays did come in various configurations, but
the original OD relay should have had C1-C2-W1-W2.

If not, you are going to need to do some detective work to find out how it is actually wired inside.  Use an ohmmeter to find a pair
of terminals that shows around 10-15 ohms resistance.  Those terminals are W1 & W2 (doesn't actually matter which is which).  Double
check that there is no continuity (infinite resistance) between the other pair of terminals.  I would also take the next step of
applying 12v across the W1 & W2 terminals, and check that the other pair of terminals go to zero (or nearly zero) ohms.

White - W1
Brown - C1
YG - W2
YP - C2

If the coil is grounded to the case (as your terminal numbers would seem to indicate), then you'll need to look for a different
relay.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 08:11:00 2013
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	<22.29.11872.B7DC2A25@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 07:10:02 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: ronnie babbitt <rbtr3a@cox.net>
Cc: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ronnie --

Here's a diagram...

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/ODWiring_zps865632f9.jpg

As Randall notes, there are 3-terminal relays in the world -- I use one on
my brake lights but that works because I am controlling power.  As you can
see in the diagram OD switch controls the ground side of the equation.

If interested I have versions of that diagram wherein I have added the
diode suggested (elsewhere) by Randall.  I also added a fuse and indicator
light but all this can come later after you have the thing working.

Geo


On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 12:25 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have 2 different relays both say they are 6RA the original
> > looking one
> > has
> >
> > double C1
> >
> > single C2
> >
> > single W1
>
> Look again, Ronnie.  I think you will find that there is a W2 as well as a
> W1.  6RA relays did come in various configurations, but
> the original OD relay should have had C1-C2-W1-W2.
>
> If not, you are going to need to do some detective work to find out how it
> is actually wired inside.  Use an ohmmeter to find a pair
> of terminals that shows around 10-15 ohms resistance.  Those terminals are
> W1 & W2 (doesn't actually matter which is which).  Double
> check that there is no continuity (infinite resistance) between the other
> pair of terminals.  I would also take the next step of
> applying 12v across the W1 & W2 terminals, and check that the other pair
> of terminals go to zero (or nearly zero) ohms.
>
> White - W1
> Brown - C1
> YG - W2
> YP - C2
>
> If the coil is grounded to the case (as your terminal numbers would seem
> to indicate), then you'll need to look for a different
> relay.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 08:25:38 2013
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From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'ronnie babbitt'" <rbtr3a@cox.net>, "'triumphs2 TRlist '"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001201cef2f5$6a769a30$3f63ce90$@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2013 08:20:03 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQIYyV8RRFWMj11yWkN3DeSrmWdMzpm0/oCA
Subject: Re: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

DanMasters Diagram
Brown			From power to C1 (Control Box A1 or Amp Gauge)
Yellow/Purple		From C2 to Overdrive Solenoid
White			From Power Side of Starter Switch to W1
Yellow/Green		From W2 to Overdrive Switch
Yellow			From Overdrive Switch to Isolator Switches (in
parallel)
Black			From Isolater Switches (in parallel) to Ground

Mine
Brown			From power to C1  (Control Box A1 to Secondary Fuse
Box to C1)
Yellow/purple		From C2 to overdrive solenoid
White			From power side of key switch to inline fuse to
overdrive switch
Yellow/Green		From Overdrive Switch to W1
Yellow			From W2 to Isolater Switches in parellel
Black			From Isolater Switches (in parallel) to Ground

The difference between the two is that I put the switch between the power
and the relay.   Since the relay is mounted on the dash support bar, this
eliminated long runs of white to the relay, Yellow/green to switch, and
yellow to relay.   There is only one long run of yellow/green from the
switch to the relay

Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
Tampa, FL


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ronnie babbitt
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 9:39 PM
To: triumphs2 TRlist 
Subject: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A

Here is what I have 

 

Wires

 

Yellow/Green

Yellow/purple

Brown

White

 

I have 2 different relays both say they are 6RA the original looking one has

 

double C1

single C2

single W1

 

the newer 6RA relay has the same configuration but one addition terminal it
looks like it is labeled WC

 

can someone tell me which  wires goes to the correct terminals

 

ronnie

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 10:24:54 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'triumphs2 TRlist '" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 08:35:39 -0800
Thread-Index: AQIYyV8RRFWMj11yWkN3DeSrmWdMzpm0/oCAgABDDhA=
Subject: Re: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> The difference between the two is that I put the switch 
> between the power
> and the relay.   Since the relay is mounted on the dash 
> support bar, this
> eliminated long runs of white to the relay, Yellow/green to 
> switch, and
> yellow to relay.   There is only one long run of yellow/green from the
> switch to the relay

Which, BTW, is the scheme shown in the earlier Triumph manuals; and the apparently original scheme I found on TS39781LO.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 11:33:08 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 17:36:09 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] OD wiring A-type TR3A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List,



Weren't all the original o/d relays on TR3's mounted to the battery box? Even
the cars I've seen w/o overdrive had holes drilledB in the battery box for the
o/d relay, usuallyB filled with rubber plugs.B 



Ed Woods

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 15:15:58 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:20:50 -0500
From: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 steering column bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hey List,
Has anyone any tips on removing and installing new bushes in the steering
column? I am about to attempt the procedure.  I have no clue how to depress
the two knobs like the workshop manual suggests to remove the old ones?
Thanks,
Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 16:05:41 2013
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Date: Sat, 07 Dec 2013 15:58:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Bob Peglow <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.2303.1386437939.1949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You did not mention if the same thing happens when closing.
If it's just an opening problem it could be vibration bouncing a flakey
limit switch at the open end.
You would feel binding when moving the door by hand, doubt it would need
grease.
B 
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 13:26:48 -0600
> From: "Dave" To: Subject: [TR] very off topic
> Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>
> mine works some of the time.
>
> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it again
> then it
> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.  not an
> urgent
> issue because I only keep LBCbs in there.
>
> does it just need grease or something?  or should I replace it?
> doesnbt
> seem worthwhile to pay somebody to do that when supposedly Ibm a
> mechanic
B 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 16:10:28 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:24:06 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got 3 doors at two locations, different manufacturers and ages. 100%
(as in all) of cranky door symptoms were fixed by realigning the lower
sensors. They are prone to being wacked by garbage cans, booted feet.(you
get the idea). If they are unaligned, the doors won't operate. If they are
marginally aligned, the doors will work some of the time. 

 

 Rick in Seattle

1960 Triumph TR3A

1970 BSA 441 Victor Special

1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3

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References: <CABrPJU-4+ci65QkLxy55+O=xzhXpqpYqyCA3WXbZL-mf2W-TsA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:22:54 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 steering column bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just recently we had a lengthy discussion on this very topic.  I can't get
the archives to respond at the moment but you might look there.  IIRC it
was in the past 2 months.

Short version is:  You cut off the nubs rather than depress and you push
the old bushings farther in rather than remove them.

Geo


On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 1:20 PM, darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey List,
> Has anyone any tips on removing and installing new bushes in the steering
> column? I am about to attempt the procedure.  I have no clue how to depress
> the two knobs like the workshop manual suggests to remove the old ones?
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <CABrPJU-4+ci65QkLxy55+O=xzhXpqpYqyCA3WXbZL-mf2W-TsA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 steering column bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Darrel,

I think some people cut those off with an Xacto knife.   I had the tube 
out of my wife's 250 and just knocked the bushings out with a wooden 
dowel that was just the right size to slide into the tube.

Roger.
On 12/07/2013 02:20 PM, darrell floyd wrote:
> Hey List,
> Has anyone any tips on removing and installing new bushes in the steering
> column? I am about to attempt the procedure.  I have no clue how to depress
> the two knobs like the workshop manual suggests to remove the old ones?
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 19:06:25 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 19:53:14 -0500
References: <mailman.2302.1386437939.1949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I will also suggest that the plastic gears may be trashed. Mine was  
wonky for a few days and then didn't work at all. Search the internet  
and you will find the replacement gear kits are plentiful.
Allen

On Dec 7, 2013, at 12:38 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Dave, i just went through this, with similar symptoms. If adjusting  
> theforce/limit screws doesn't help, remove the rear cover if you  
> can . I found that the plastic(!) drive gears in mine were  
> essentially devoid of teeth.
> Hope it's just an adjustment in your case.
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 2:26 PM
> Subject: [TR] very off topic
>
>
>> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>>
>> mine works some of the time.
>>
>> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it  
>> again then it
>> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 21:26:44 2013
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From: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 21:59:28 -0500
To: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 steering column bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Darrell:
Just did mine.  Use a sharp exacto knife and cut out rubber knobs.  Then I
used a spark plug socket on end of long extension and gently tapped them
further in tube.  A little wd40 on new ones and used the same socket to gently
tap until knobs fit in holes.
 Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
62 Tr4. X2 now
75 TR6

Sent from Jim Henningsen


> On Dec 7, 2013, at 3:20 PM, darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hey List,
> Has anyone any tips on removing and installing new bushes in the steering
> column? I am about to attempt the procedure.  I have no clue how to depress
> the two knobs like the workshop manual suggests to remove the old ones?
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 21:34:02 2013
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Allen Hess'" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2302.1386437939.1949.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<yq4Z1m00L0NyJgq01q4ahi>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 20:07:07 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac7zudgTUqRXlQvRTfW7iKFRKNV+MgACHAwg
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All this talk about garage openers has become viral.  Tonight when I got
home mine was doing the exact thing.  But this is the first cold night we've
had so it figures.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 5:53 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic

I will also suggest that the plastic gears may be trashed. Mine was  
wonky for a few days and then didn't work at all. Search the internet  
and you will find the replacement gear kits are plentiful.
Allen

On Dec 7, 2013, at 12:38 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Dave, i just went through this, with similar symptoms. If adjusting  
> theforce/limit screws doesn't help, remove the rear cover if you  
> can . I found that the plastic(!) drive gears in mine were  
> essentially devoid of teeth.
> Hope it's just an adjustment in your case.
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 2:26 PM
> Subject: [TR] very off topic
>
>
>> anyone know anything about garage door openers?
>>
>> mine works some of the time.
>>
>> the rest of the time it opens maybe 6 inches and stops.  hit it  
>> again then it
>> closes.  if I pull the release I can open the door no problem.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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 "I will also suggest that the plastic gears may be trashed. Mine was  
 wonky for a few days and then didn't work at all. Search the internet  
 and you will find the replacement gear kits are plentiful.
 Allen"

I remember when I changed the nylon gears on mine after it was about 5 years old or so, I thought "wonder why the make the gears out of nylon in a pretty high stress application, if they were brass the thing practically last forever" then I thought about it for just a little more and figured out the answer was in the question.

Greg

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:17:26 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Electric fan and new halogen sealed beam headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It was a beautiful day in Raleigh on this last Friday and I drove the TR4
to work.  It's a good 45 min drive but really great to get the car out in
december without a coat at 6am in the morning.

The drive in was mostly in the dark - but uneventful until I pulled into
the Bojangles drive through to get a biscuit  2 cars back from the
paywindow. I looked over and the ammeter was pegged!

i popped the hood disconnected ground from the battery (I love my little
green knob) and nothing looked bad.  the ammeter was still pegged. gave it
a rap and it went home.   Started up again - looked good until I turned on
the headlights and pegged again. - paid and parked and realized when I
replaced the electric fan controller - I had not connected it directly to
the alternator as I had done before.

I have the fan thermostat set just over the thermostat opening temperature.
and it never got hot enough to kick the fan in during the drive to work -
that and the headlights bumped the ammeter to the rail during startup and
the ammeter stuck. another rap to the ammeter sent it down - but only a
small bit with the headlights and fan on - I am running close to 30 A with
my headlights (new sealed beam halogens  H6024 from Walmart 8.88 each)

I had a good scare for sure. Learned a few things - an Ammeter is a good
thing, My vanity for a clean engine compartment got in the way of better
judgement; People seem to be more tolerant of an old car with the hood up t
in a fast food drive through than I would have thought.   I was really
happy with the light coming off of the halogen sealed beam headlights.

So i'll be playing with wiring this afternoon.  Re-route the power to the
fan (I put an inline fuse in there already!).   I'll order materials to
relay the headlights, It's on my to do list- but I never do it.....

Chris

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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 09:58:44 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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On 12/8/2013 2:01 AM, glemon@neb.rr.com wrote:
> I remember when I changed the nylon gears on mine after it was about 5 years old or so, I thought "wonder why the make the gears out of nylon in a pretty high stress application, if they were brass the thing practically last forever" then I thought about it for just a little more and figured out the answer was in the question.

Nylon is quieter and, with proper care, should last the life of the 
operator.

Speaking as someone who spent time in the door business, there's plenty 
of revenue to be had without building in some failure mode.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

---
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References: <CANhzkeO4a5JxPuD4rcurTDuNnN07uqGCJH8SzEukkuqP92rG-g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 08:35:51 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Cc: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric fan and new halogen sealed beam headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, definitely headlamps relays (& IMO fuses) are in order.

Without relays, on long chilly drives, the headlamp switch can make a nice
hand warmer.

But I think a pair of those high beams should only draw about 11 amps.  I
hook up a reliable ammeter at the battery and jot down the draw of every
major circuit just to get an idea of what is going on.

Geo


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 7:17 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> It was a beautiful day in Raleigh on this last Friday and I drove the TR4
> to work.  It's a good 45 min drive but really great to get the car out in
> december without a coat at 6am in the morning.
>
> The drive in was mostly in the dark - but uneventful until I pulled into
> the Bojangles drive through to get a biscuit  2 cars back from the
> paywindow. I looked over and the ammeter was pegged!
>
> i popped the hood disconnected ground from the battery (I love my little
> green knob) and nothing looked bad.  the ammeter was still pegged. gave it
> a rap and it went home.   Started up again - looked good until I turned on
> the headlights and pegged again. - paid and parked and realized when I
> replaced the electric fan controller - I had not connected it directly to
> the alternator as I had done before.
>
> I have the fan thermostat set just over the thermostat opening temperature.
> and it never got hot enough to kick the fan in during the drive to work -
> that and the headlights bumped the ammeter to the rail during startup and
> the ammeter stuck. another rap to the ammeter sent it down - but only a
> small bit with the headlights and fan on - I am running close to 30 A with
> my headlights (new sealed beam halogens  H6024 from Walmart 8.88 each)
>
> I had a good scare for sure. Learned a few things - an Ammeter is a good
> thing, My vanity for a clean engine compartment got in the way of better
> judgement; People seem to be more tolerant of an old car with the hood up t
> in a fast food drive through than I would have thought.   I was really
> happy with the light coming off of the halogen sealed beam headlights.
>
> So i'll be playing with wiring this afternoon.  Re-route the power to the
> fan (I put an inline fuse in there already!).   I'll order materials to
> relay the headlights, It's on my to do list- but I never do it.....
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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	Dec 2013 16:09:16 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>, "'list Triumph'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 08:09:15 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac70KMt6VeYD5fUySyqrN9hMHwSUOwAA16Qg
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric fan and new halogen sealed beam headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> So i'll be playing with wiring this afternoon.  Re-route the 
> power to the
> fan (I put an inline fuse in there already!). 

Just a thought, Chris, rather than rewiring the fan so the ammeter can show charge while the battery is running down; why not add a
shunt to the ammeter so it can indicate the total load?  In effect, the shunt recalibrates the ammeter for a higher full scale
reading.  I chose 60 amps (since I had a 60 amp alternator) but you could go for any other value with a little calculation.

http://tinyurl.com/mzlgvua

That's the result from my second version, where I measured the ammeter resistance (1.2 milliohms) and calculated that a 3.6" length
of 16 AWG copper wire (4 milliohms per foot) would make a 50% shunt.  

But for the original version, I just kept adding strands of steel "baling" wire across the ammeter until I got the result I wanted.
With engine off, headlights on, I checked the ammeter reading and then kept adding strands until the deflection was half of the
original value.

>  I'll order 
> materials to
> relay the headlights, It's on my to do list- but I never do it.....

Another photo that you might find interesting.  I later redid without the sockets.

http://tinyurl.com/kbzov2a

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 11:52:58 2013
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References: <52A3A2D1.4080204@rmi.net>
	<20131208033842.H13FF.169560.root@cdptpa-web09>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 11:02:39 -0500
From: darrell floyd <tr250driver@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 steering column bushings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Guys,
I used a socket and extension with some PB Blaster and they came out after
some spirited pounding with my Hide Hammer. I took them all the way out
cause I intend to powder coat the column.
Cheers,
Darrell


On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 10:38 PM, <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Can you put the bushing in with the column still on the car?
>
> Greg Lemon
>
> ---- Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:
> > Hi Darrel,
> >
> > I think some people cut those off with an Xacto knife.   I had the tube
> > out of my wife's 250 and just knocked the bushings out with a wooden
> > dowel that was just the right size to slide into the tube.
> >
> > Roger.
> > On 12/07/2013 02:20 PM, darrell floyd wrote:
> > > Hey List,
> > > Has anyone any tips on removing and installing new bushes in the
> steering
> > > column? I am about to attempt the procedure.  I have no clue how to
> depress
> > > the two knobs like the workshop manual suggests to remove the old ones?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Darrell
> > >
> > > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> > >
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr@rmi.net
> >
> > ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 17:07:38 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
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References: <20131208070128.TJKXT.140995.root@cdptpa-web21>
	<52A48924.7010706@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 17:07:48 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] very off topic update
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if I use a hand held remote, and push up on the door as it opens, it opens 
all the way.  closes by itself just fine.  must be the gears binding.  I'm 
moving the TR6 this evening so I can get to it.  I'll lube everything!

thanks to all!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 08:24:07 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 09:43:32 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac707IxV7zhHdrQgQdquXvWbG4lcnw==
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Subject: [TR] Testing brake lines
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For the latest restoration, I have made my own brake lines, but I'd like to
know if they are good before reuniting the body with the frame.  Does anyone
have a suggestion how to pressure test the integrity of the lines without
jerry-rigging a set up with the reservoir, master cylinder and pedal
assembly ?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 09:46:48 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 10:30:45 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Testing brake lines
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Sure, just set your air compressor to 3,000 PSI...

You can check for leaks easily enough but to see if things will hold up 
"under fire" is a bit more difficult.

Dave



In a message dated 12/9/2013 9:15:41 AM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> For the latest restoration, I have made my own brake lines, but I'd like 
> to
> know if they are good before reuniting the body with the frame.  Does 
> anyone
> have a suggestion how to pressure test the integrity of the lines without
> jerry-rigging a set up with the reservoir, master cylinder and pedal
> assembly ?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	UTC
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <003001cef4ed$1654b640$42fe22c0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 11:06:46 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac707IxV7zhHdrQgQdquXvWbG4lcnwAEuD0g
Subject: Re: [TR] Testing brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Andrew,

It won't give you actual 'in use' pressure level but a compressor with a
fitting modified to the line inlet set up and pressurized for 24 hours
should give you the best test of your handy work without a having any
high-pressure equipment.  Of course getting a companion to stand on the
brakes for a few minutes whilst you inspect everything is a good
full-pressure test but comes after you have the tub in place. 

My thoughts,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 8:44 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Testing brake lines

For the latest restoration, I have made my own brake lines, but I'd like to
know if they are good before reuniting the body with the frame.  Does anyone
have a suggestion how to pressure test the integrity of the lines without
jerry-rigging a set up with the reservoir, master cylinder and pedal
assembly ?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Skip Gurnee" <skip47@gbis.com>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <003001cef4ed$1654b640$42fe22c0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 08:28:08 -0800
Subject: Re: [TR] Testing brake lines
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Maybe I'm just stupid, but my way of testing has always been to put the 
system together and press hard on the brake pedal.  If it stayed high and 
didn't leak down, I was satisfied.  I've always used this technique on the 
race car and haven't been killed yet!
Seriously, there are few places on the car that you can't replace when it's 
complete.  Take the chance that you're be right and finish the restoration; 
you're free to test it in the garage before it moves.
BTW - did you double-flare the joints?  Do it.
Skip Gurnee
64 TR4, 66 TR4A
Lotus Cortina, TVR, Cherokee stroker

-----Original Message----- 
From: Andrew Uprichard

For the latest restoration, I have made my own brake lines, but I'd like to
know if they are good before reuniting the body with the frame.  Does anyone
have a suggestion how to pressure test the integrity of the lines without
jerry-rigging a set up with the reservoir, master cylinder and pedal
assembly ?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 16:50:49 2013
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 22:57:23 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Testing brake lines
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---- Skip Gurnee <skip47@gbis.com> wrote: 
> Maybe I'm just stupid, 

Maybe I am too, but I was going to suggest exactly the same thing.  

Except maybe "stomp" rather than just "press hard" <G>  

It's hard to avoid that moment of panic when something unexpected happens; and even though locking the brakes is counter-productive, you sure don't want the hydraulics to fail just because you did.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "ronnie babbitt" <rbtr3a@cox.net>
To: "triumphs2 TRlist " <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 07:07:10 -0500
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Subject: [TR] What I learned
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What I learned. 

A couple of years ago I took Terra my TR3A to Tom Fanshers house in Florida
to send some time with them and tune up my car. 
I'm a very mechanically inclined but I am not a tuner. Both Jere Dotten and
Tom worked their magic on Terra and the car ran better than ever. Lately she
has been running very rough. 

How ever since the last tune up she has not had been driven many miles. 
...
This past weekend was our local night parade. So I decided to do some
tuning. I call a Dutch mechanic friend Willem to come assist me. We changed
the plugs. Cleaned the rotor cap. Did all the usual things. I'm using a
pertronics so gaping the points was unnecessary. 

I then decided to drain all the gas out using a transfer pump. Added five
gallons of new fresh gas. Turned the key and immediately she came to life.
Within seconds she began to run, as if time had been set back to the day I
left Toms house. Bad gas has been her problem all along. 

I have now learned a lesson regarding fuel stabilizers. I always thought If
I put in some fresh high octane gas that that would be fine. I was very
wrong. 
I drive the night time parade. The slow pace began to increase the water
temp, soon she began running badly. I figure the low RPMs was also causing
the plugs to load up. As soon as the parade ended I drove her back to the
starting point of the parade and quickly she smoothed out. I'm assuming the
Carbon burnt off at the higher speed. So next year I plan to add a pusher
fan behind a Christmas wreath to help cool the water temp. 

While doing the maintenance I decide to look at the OD for the unit was not
staying engaged. I decided to change out the relay. After wiring in the
replacement which was not configured exactly the same. She began engaging
and worked perfectly. 

Now my confidence is restored and I believe I will participate in the
Georgia triumphs annual Polar Bear run later this month. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 13:57:59 2013
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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 15:04:00 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Robson's forthcoming book on "Works Triumphs in Detail"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Graham Robson posted an update on his latest book effort today on the TR
Register forum, noting "this will be a brand new title, covering each and
every one of the 'works' cars (1953 to 1980) in detail, including drivers,
modifications, events done, etc.  For publication mid next year. It goes
off to the publishers (Herridge & Sons) tomorrow".  It includes the works
Standards in addition to Triumphs.

This will be a useful addition to many our our Triumph libraries.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 19:01:14 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Robson's forthcoming book on "Works Triumphs in Detail"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Graham reminded me that his upcoming book will cover only the British
'works' cars -- not the Kastner cars, Tullius/Group 44 cars, or Jon Buffum
cars.  Those works cars that came over from the UK to Canada and the USA
are discussed.  Graham notes there are about 150 individual cars involved
with more than 150,000 words and more than 350 images.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 3:04 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> Graham Robson posted an update on his latest book effort today on the TR
> Register forum, noting "this will be a brand new title, covering each and
> every one of the 'works' cars (1953 to 1980) in detail, including drivers,
> modifications, events done, etc.  For publication mid next year. It goes
> off to the publishers (Herridge & Sons) tomorrow".  It includes the works
> Standards in addition to Triumphs.
>
> This will be a useful addition to many our our Triumph libraries.
>
> Don
> 1962 TR3B TSF202L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 16:07:37 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Dash supports
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I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have six
and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole right
at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: TR250Driver@aol.com
Full-name: TR250Driver
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 16:51:28 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386798689;
	bh=Kn1zj02Yl26G99KbxAcBcHrhAgZT52CZ+oKKn9SjVFI=;
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Subject: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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List,
If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have  
came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a Tonneau 
 cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure  
they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the  List? 
Thanks,
Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:46:55 -0500
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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The trip odometer reset knob and shaft might pass through that hole.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have six
> and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole
> right
> at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
> Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <000f01cef6b5$0a69ea70$1f3dbf50$@uprichard.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:45:02 -0500
Thread-index: Ac72tMefbzYDGQEVSwq9MLrPUPB98wAHfEAA
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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It goes on the driver's side, the one without the hole goes to the passenger
side. I think the purpose was to take the stem of the trip odometer, but I
was never able to get it to work for me.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 4:08 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dash supports

I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have six
and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole right
at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory@verizon.net

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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 21:21:58 -0800
From: Eric Miller <ebuzzmiller@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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My one owner 65 4A Surrey Top that I purchased in 96 did not have any 
tonneau attachment points. (although it came with a tonneau cover, and 
lots of other stuff...) Hope that helps.

-Eric

On 12/11/2013 1:51 PM, TR250Driver@aol.com wrote:
> List,
> If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have
> came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a Tonneau
>   cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure
> they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the  List?
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 06:43:16 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:47:09 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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No wisdom here but plenty of speculation.

The rear portion is removable, is it not?  If that is the case then there 
is the option of removing the rear window and using the car as a full 
convertible model including use of a tonneau, I would think.

Cheers, Darrell

Dave

In a message dated 12/11/2013 4:36:27 PM Central Standard Time, 
TR250Driver@aol.com writes: 
> List,
> If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have 
>  
> came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a 
> Tonneau 
> cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure  
> they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the  
> List? 
> Thanks,
> Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 06:52:27 2013
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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 07:40:14 -0500 (EST)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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Yes, Don Hiscock (on this list) found a document that shows how the extra 
cutout is for clearance for the trip odo reset knob if the speedo is mounted 
on the right (left hand drive) where the rallye copilot can see it.  He sent 
me a copy which I have on my home computer.

I, too, was clueless before this was brought to my attention.

Dave

In a message dated 12/11/2013 3:31:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have 
> six
> and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole 
> right
> at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
> Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 07:30:47 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Joseph Laurito'" <trglory@verizon.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000f01cef6b5$0a69ea70$1f3dbf50$@uprichard.net>
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 08:38:48 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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Thanks, Joe - and everyone else who answered.  I have three cars and all
have the speedometer on the left.  I guess I am going straight to
hell.............

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Laurito [mailto:trglory@verizon.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 7:45 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Dash supports

It goes on the driver's side, the one without the hole goes to the passenger
side. I think the purpose was to take the stem of the trip odometer, but I
was never able to get it to work for me.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 4:08 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dash supports

I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have six
and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole right
at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory@verizon.net

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To: Dave1massey@cs.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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 Yes, the rear window and frame are "removable," just as a Herald coupe or
sedan roof is "removable," but that really wasn't Triumph's intent in either
case (i.e., make the car into a convertible). I'll assume that, on an original
TR4/4A hardtop installation, there are no snaps or Lift-the-Dot posts around
the rear tonneau, right?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey@cs.com>


No wisdom here but plenty of speculation.

The rear portion is removable, is it not?  If that is the case then there
is the option of removing the rear window and using the car as a full
convertible model including use of a tonneau, I would think.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
To: "TR250Driver@aol.com" <tr250driver@aol.com>, Triumph List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:29:14 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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Darrell-

I looked over a beat up TR4 a few years ago which was probably around the same
year (had an aluminum hardtop) - and it did not have attachment points for the
tonneau on the doors.  The factory surrey cars didn't have rear capping pieces
and had different rear bulkhead trim so I don't think its unreasonable to
assume no holes in the doors.

Randy

> List,
> If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have
> came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a Tonneau
>  cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure
> they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the
List?
> Thanks,
> Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Full-name: Dave1massey
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 11:43:27 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too.  I have my speedo on the left on my TR6, too so I bet I beat you 
there.

Dave

In a message dated 12/12/2013 8:24:29 AM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard@uprichard.net writes: 
> Thanks, Joe - and everyone else who answered.  I have three cars and all
> have the speedometer on the left.  I guess I am going straight to
> hell.............

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <48cb5.2fa15ffc.3fdb08b1@cs.com>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 15:30:49 -0500
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here are links to the Triumph Service Information bulletin from September
1958 discussing the speedometer move.  It only applies to post-TS29098
cars, so anyone is safe from the fires if their commission number is
earlier than that...
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4DTG679/0/X2/i-4DTG679-X2.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-W35dvzh/0/X2/i-W35dvzh-X2.jpg


On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 7:40 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> Yes, Don Hiscock (on this list) found a document that shows how the extra
> cutout is for clearance for the trip odo reset knob if the speedo is
> mounted
> on the right (left hand drive) where the rallye copilot can see it.  He
> sent
> me a copy which I have on my home computer.
>
> I, too, was clueless before this was brought to my attention.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 12/11/2013 3:31:54 PM Central Standard Time,
> auprichard@uprichard.net writes:
> > I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I have
> > six
> > and all are identical with the exception that half have an extra hole
> > right
> > at one end.  Rather than the end being straight across, it looks like a
> > Greek omega.  And idea what side this one goes on - and why?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 15:40:08 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Don Hiscock'" <don.hiscock@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <48cb5.2fa15ffc.3fdb08b1@cs.com>
	<CAPK7CFD9ZOJ2DU6J53h8G7rD8dgY1-Vrt8zc3Lgc8vGHnzS9sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 17:13:38 -0500
Thread-Index: AQEMVH4nFjqeWuTEL1iY1OupcSbVHAHHbtLYm8gpTNA=
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Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports
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"Mileage recorder is screened from the view of the passenger" - forget the
mileage recorder, I don't want my wife to see how fast we are going !!

One car is pre-29098 and two are post, but all have the speedo on the left.
I actually prefer it that way.  And I have it on good authority the speedo
is on the left down there, too................

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 3:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Dash supports

Here are links to the Triumph Service Information bulletin from September
1958 discussing the speedometer move.  It only applies to post-TS29098 cars,
so anyone is safe from the fires if their commission number is earlier than
that...
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4DTG679/0/X2/i-4DTG679-X2.jpg
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-W35dvzh/0/X2/i-W35dvzh-X2.jpg


On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 7:40 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

> Yes, Don Hiscock (on this list) found a document that shows how the 
> extra cutout is for clearance for the trip odo reset knob if the 
> speedo is mounted on the right (left hand drive) where the rallye 
> copilot can see it.  He sent me a copy which I have on my home 
> computer.
>
> I, too, was clueless before this was brought to my attention.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 12/11/2013 3:31:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
> auprichard@uprichard.net writes:
> > I never realized the two dash supports for the TR3 were sided.  I 
> > have six and all are identical with the exception that half have an 
> > extra hole right at one end.  Rather than the end being straight 
> > across, it looks like a Greek omega.  And idea what side this one 
> > goes on - and why?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 15:45:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:14:19 +0000 (UTC)
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	<fot@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] TR6 bonnet wanted
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Does anyone near Jacksonville, FL know of a TR6 bonnet that might be available? 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
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Subject: [TR] Tonneau on a Surrey-topped TR4A
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Darrell, et al,
Pretty sure my 1965 TR4A did not have button snaps on the doors when I bought
it in 1985, but I have since installed them and had a standard tonneau cover
fitted to the car by an upholstery shop.  There are numerous lift-a-dot studs
installed on the base of the backlight frame, with a little cover modifying
required around the frame sides near the doors.  It is not as taut as most
tonneau covers but keeps dust and prying eyes out of the car when parked.
George Haynes




------------------------------

Message: 2

List,
If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have
came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a Tonneau
 cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure
they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the  List?
Thanks,
Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<8D0C5A368833D25-2164-3FD7@webmail-m293.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 19:17:20 -0500
From: Jeff Krupp <jkrupp2441@gmail.com>
To: George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau on a Surrey-topped TR4A
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Darryl
Checked the 62 TR4 surrey top, no holes or snaps on door tops.

JEFF


On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 5:48 PM, George Haynes <ghaynestr4@aol.com> wrote:

> Darrell, et al,
> Pretty sure my 1965 TR4A did not have button snaps on the doors when I
> bought
> it in 1985, but I have since installed them and had a standard tonneau
> cover
> fitted to the car by an upholstery shop.  There are numerous lift-a-dot
> studs
> installed on the base of the backlight frame, with a little cover modifying
> required around the frame sides near the doors.  It is not as taut as most
> tonneau covers but keeps dust and prying eyes out of the car when parked.
> George Haynes
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
>
> List,
> If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have
> came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a Tonneau
>  cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure
> they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the
>  List?
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jkrupp2441@gmail.com
>



-- 
Jeffrey Krupp
www.jeffkrupp.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 17:34:44 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau on a Surrey-topped TR4A
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Hey Guys,
Dang!  Thanks! I guess I should have thought that out better or at  least 
consulted the List first.  Good news is that the holes will be filled  as I 
made the change just in the nick of time.  Not that it would have  mattered 
that much but why not make it right.  
Cheers,
Darrell
Oh, there are a few Surrey Toped TR4's on UTube and sure enough, no  snaps.
 
 
In a message dated 12/12/2013 7:17:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jkrupp2441@gmail.com writes:

Darryl
Checked the 62 TR4 surrey top, no holes or snaps on door  tops.

JEFF

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Subject: Re: [TR] Surrey Top Question for TR4
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My thoughts. The hardtop was an option so I wonder if cars were built from the factory and delivered with only the Hardtop? I also doubt that the holes for the snaps were selectively drilled or stamped depending upon the build sheets. So my guess is that they all came with the snaps on the doors. But that's only my guess. When I restored my 4A and installed the Hardtop I had the holes welded shut as I'd not be using them any longer and I liked the cleaner look of the doors without the snaps. Again only my preference, my car and what I wanted.
JVV

---- Dave1massey@cs.com wrote: 
> No wisdom here but plenty of speculation.
> 
> The rear portion is removable, is it not?  If that is the case then there 
> is the option of removing the rear window and using the car as a full 
> convertible model including use of a tonneau, I would think.
> 
> Cheers, Darrell
> 
> Dave
> 
> In a message dated 12/11/2013 4:36:27 PM Central Standard Time, 
> TR250Driver@aol.com writes: 
> > List,
> > If one was to purchase a Surrey Toped 63 TR4 back in the day would it have 
> >  
> > came with the holes drilled in the doors and buttons attached for a 
> > Tonneau 
> > cover?  Obviously one could not be installed.  At first I thought sure  
> > they would be there but now I am uncertain.  What say the wisdom of the  
> > List? 
> > Thanks,
> > Darrell
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 14:00:08 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 15:26:48 -0500
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac75CnLrFsa6azSCT0SyVkn2jzu1Jg==
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission 'dipstick' hole
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

does anyone know the diameter of the fill/dipstick hole on later TR series
transmissions.   I picked one up with 3 switch bosses so that I could
actually hookup my reverse lamp.   But the tranny oil fill/dipstick hole is
not 'open'.

tried searching the archives but didn't have any luck.

Thanks

 

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 15:31:09 2013
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From: "Triumph" <tr3abobm77@frontier.com>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <03d801cef90a$d1211b00$73635100$@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 17:09:10 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission 'dipstick' hole
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I measured my 59 TR3A transmission and it comes out to 13/16 or .8125 
inches.
Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77@frontier.com

--------------------------------------------------
From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 3:26 PM
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission 'dipstick' hole

> does anyone know the diameter of the fill/dipstick hole on later TR series
> transmissions.   I picked one up with 3 switch bosses so that I could
> actually hookup my reverse lamp.   But the tranny oil fill/dipstick hole 
> is
> not 'open'.
>
> tried searching the archives but didn't have any luck.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77@frontier.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6918 - Release Date: 12/13/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 16:13:55 2013
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
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	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Thanks Bob - anyone able to confirm?
(not that I don't believe you Bob - just following the 'measuring twice'
mantra)


-----Original Message-----
From: Triumph [mailto:tr3abobm77@frontier.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 5:09 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; ''Triumphs''
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission 'dipstick' hole

I measured my 59 TR3A transmission and it comes out to 13/16 or .8125
inches.
Bob Maassel
Fort Wayne, IN
1959 TR3A
tr3abobm77@frontier.com

--------------------------------------------------
From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 3:26 PM
To: "''Triumphs''" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission 'dipstick' hole

> does anyone know the diameter of the fill/dipstick hole on later TR series
> transmissions.   I picked one up with 3 switch bosses so that I could
> actually hookup my reverse lamp.   But the tranny oil fill/dipstick hole 
> is
> not 'open'.
>
> tried searching the archives but didn't have any luck.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77@frontier.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6918 - Release Date: 
> 12/13/13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 15:07:36 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 16:03:34 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

Second update on my efforts to super-tune a TR4A.
Loved the story from Jonmac concerning the efficacy of what I am attempting.
Classic!!

In the last update, I spoke of how the timing varies significantly, always
"jumping" to the advance side.
After checking about everything, I determined that all was mechanically and
electrically well.

Suspecting the dizzy advance mechanism was somehow slipping into advance
sporadically, and being the experimental type, I determined to retard the
timing.
I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC, and the engine
runs smoother than ever!
I can retard more without giving up power under load, but start to get some
backfire through the carbs.

Running HS6 carbs with "TW" needles and red springs.
Mixure nuts are 7 points down, giving me 21 Hg of vacuum at ~800 rpm.

I was surprised that retarding would help.
Might try coming down a bit more later, adjusting the carbs as needed.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 15:12:47 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>, Triumphs
  <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 3:03 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:


> ... I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC, and the
> engine
> runs smoother than ever!...



40 BTDC is advancing the timing, not retarding.  And yes, advancing helps
so long as you stop short of pinging.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
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To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Nice catch!!

That should be "ATDC"..


On Dec 15, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 3:03 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:
>
> ... I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC, and the
engine
> runs smoother than ever!...
>
>
> 40 BTDC is advancing the timing, not retarding.  And yes, advancing helps so
long as you stop short of pinging.
>
> Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<CANzE1bG_00yscDOaB-hMbeLciXt4-3uhtWbiK1LC6AbOQHLNzA@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 19:57:47 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the most important number is the advance when everything is 'all
in', i.e. at high RPM.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/Lucas_Distributor_Advance_Curves_zps03074f01.gif

Any retarding you do at idle will, irrespective of how smoothly it runs
there, rob you of power at speed.

Geo


On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>wrote:

> It will run smoother but will it have any power @ 4 degrees after TDC?
>
> -----Original Message----- From: G.D. Huggins
> Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2013 5:22 PM
> To: Geo Hahn
> Cc: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
>
>
> Nice catch!!
>
> That should be "ATDC"..
>
>
> On Dec 15, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>
>  On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 3:03 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com> wrote:
>>
>> ... I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC, and the
>>
> engine
>
>> runs smoother than ever!...
>>
>>
>> 40 BTDC is advancing the timing, not retarding.  And yes, advancing helps
>> so
>>
> long as you stop short of pinging.
>
>>
>> Geo

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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <86E19A2B-6DC6-440E-8FA1-543634B976E7@genfiniti.com>
	<CANzE1bG_00yscDOaB-hMbeLciXt4-3uhtWbiK1LC6AbOQHLNzA@mail.gmail.com>
	<27A45BC6-383D-4494-B807-19460F500520@genfiniti.com>
	<2A7D85A9B2A7482386C0298C6C5EA671@LVVJVVLAPTOP>
	<CANzE1bGw6MpzszBMABy=-ZFCyhP4hSNNsLxT0f-2YXt17hsuYw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 19:33:00 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac76CsRIivjwvtZFQbG4y7WWbPt9QAAAkkQg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Geo,

Where did this chart come from? Do you know what weights and springs were
used on each model? Something doesn't seem correct here.

Thanks!
Johnnie


> 
> I think the most important number is the advance when everything is
> 'all in', i.e. at high RPM.
> 
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/Lucas_Distribu
> tor_Advance_Curves_zps03074f01.gif
> 
> Any retarding you do at idle will, irrespective of how smoothly it runs
> there, rob you of power at speed.
> 
> Geo
> 
> 
> On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Jerry Van Vlack
> <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>wrote:
> 
> > It will run smoother but will it have any power @ 4 degrees after
> TDC?
> >
> > Nice catch!!
> >
> > That should be "ATDC"..
> >
> >
> > On Dec 15, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> >
> >  On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 3:03 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ... I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC,
> >> and the
> >>
> > engine
> >
> >> runs smoother than ever!...
> >>
> >>
> >> 40 BTDC is advancing the timing, not retarding.  And yes, advancing
> >> helps so
> >>
> > long as you stop short of pinging.
> >
> >>
> >> Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 20:59:25 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John -

Here is a more complete version with some detail from someone who knows
much more than I:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?81605-Total-Advance/page2

Geo


On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 8:33 PM, John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>wrote:

> Hi Geo,
>
> Where did this chart come from? Do you know what weights and springs were
> used on each model? Something doesn't seem correct here.
>
> Thanks!
> Johnnie
>
>
> >
> > I think the most important number is the advance when everything is
> > 'all in', i.e. at high RPM.
> >
> > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/Lucas_Distribu
> > tor_Advance_Curves_zps03074f01.gif
> >
> > Any retarding you do at idle will, irrespective of how smoothly it runs
> > there, rob you of power at speed.
> >
> > Geo
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Jerry Van Vlack
> > <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>wrote:
> >
> > > It will run smoother but will it have any power @ 4 degrees after
> > TDC?
> > >
> > > Nice catch!!
> > >
> > > That should be "ATDC"..
> > >
> > >
> > > On Dec 15, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> > >
> > >  On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 3:03 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy@genfiniti.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> ... I statically timed the engine, then retarded to 4 degrees BTC,
> > >> and the
> > >>
> > > engine
> > >
> > >> runs smoother than ever!...
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> 40 BTDC is advancing the timing, not retarding.  And yes, advancing
> > >> helps so
> > >>
> > > long as you stop short of pinging.
> > >
> > >>
> > >> Geo
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 11:02:03 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 09:58:12 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac76CsRIivjwvtZFQbG4y7WWbPt9QAAAkkQgABz3tSA=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Tuning Update 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Where did this chart come from? Do you know what weights and 
> springs were
> used on each model? Something doesn't seem correct here.

Sorry, I wasn't paying attention to this thread.  I created that chart originally, using the numbers from Marcel Chichak's database
http://tinyurl.com/m5m46ch
But I confirmed as much as I could from other sources, including the factory manuals.  

Still, I don't guarantee that any of it is strictly correct, especially the application information.  I was mostly interested in how
the advance curve had changed over the years, and found that the plots were easier to compare than the charts in the books.  So the
application information in the chart is only a rough guideline, and originally intended for my use only.  Then I posted the chart to
illustrate a point I was trying to make, and it went viral :)

For example, I believe most TR4 actually came with the 40795 distributor, and hence the curve I showed for TR4A.

I've got the information on the springs somewhere, but can't lay my hands on it at the moment.  AFAIK the weights were the same for
all 25D4 distributors.

Someday, maybe, I'll get around to checking out what works best on my own engine.  I've known for some time that "all it will take"
is not necessarily the right answer to ignition timing across the range.  The real goal is to line up maximum cylinder pressure with
where it will do the most good, which may or may not be limited by preignition.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 19:58:16 -0800 (PST)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] More help needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

HELP!!! I'm at my wits end!!  I don't have too many wits left so I can't use
them all up on this car:))  After the TR6 spent six weeks in a local repair
shop (said to be able to fix anything by some guy in the grocery parking lot)
this summer getting the calipers, pads, Master cylinder, rear brake cylinders
replaced, I get it home, drive it for a week (maybe) and it reverts back to
the very first trouble I had with it THE DAY I BOUGHT IT!     That being drive
it a while and the clutch pedal goes limp and the car won't go into any gear.
 So I checked the fluid in the clutch MC and it was at the bottom of the
reservoir so I filled it back up, noting that the fluid that remained before
filling was nearly black.  I know that right there means something, but I
forget what.  Since I first got the car 15 years ago I have learned to pump
the clutch pedal a few times before starting the engine. Probably just a
fetish I have but it works.  
Called my local British car mechanic and told
him about it all and he suggested replacement of both clutch master and slave
cylinders. (Of course, why didn't I think of that), Anyway, I mentioned thrust
washers which another local TR6 guy had mentioned.  Brit mechanic tells me
that if they are worn out-and in the oil pan it means the crankshaft needs
grinding/resurfacing and that just replacing thrust washers would be futile.  
We're talking MONEY here guys.  Anyway, I purchased EVERY SIZE thrust washer
that Rimmer Brothers sells.  Haven't done the crank movement test yet,,,,,I'm
old, can only take so much B.S. a day.  So,,,,opinions??  Oh yeh, I have been
following the progress of my surface rust at various places on the car and
decided to sand, prime and spray on some enamel on the hood and where the
fender meets it.  There is much more to be done.   The Brit mechanic says I
can get the proper paint (French Blue, 1974) from NAPA. I have a pancake air
compressor and he suggested that I go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap spray
gun and I could do most of the painting myself.  I'm no dummy (or maybe I am)
but it seems like that is too easy. I can do it, what I already did wasn't a
big deal but,,,,opinions?  
Also missing some teeth on my ring gear but so far
I can live with that.  If the engine comes out we're going all the way and I'm
not sure just which way I want to or can afford to go.  The local TR guy who
had completely restored his '74 said it had a Kent cam etc. and was getting
close to 200hp.  That would be nice but I know there are many options out
there. I just want the damned thing to be drivable RELIABLY!  With an air
conditioner,,,,,it's HOT here in Florida!!  :))  Thanks for your patience
reading my sad story of woe:))

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 22:48:26 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'John Summers'" <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 21:44:52 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac763GaERLeDOO8JTO+jfmgJg1DtUgAC6JkA
Subject: Re: [TR] More help needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> noting that the fluid that 
> remained before
> filling was nearly black.  I know that right there means 
> something, but I
> forget what.

Frequently, it means that the fluid you are using is not compatible with the seals.  While changing (or just rebuilding) the MC &
slave, be sure to flush the nasty black stuff out with brake solvent or methanol, then refill with either Castrol brand or DOT 5.

> Brit 
> mechanic tells me
> that if they are worn out-and in the oil pan it means the 
> crankshaft needs
> grinding/resurfacing and that just replacing thrust washers 
> would be futile.  

Most often, the block will need some attention as well.

> Haven't done the crank movement 
> test yet,,,,,I'm
> old, can only take so much B.S. a day.  So,,,,opinions??

Do the test.  Most likely, it will be just fine.  Repeat every year or two, until you get a feel for how fast the washers are
wearing.  They can be really badly worn before they fall out, so no need to test more often than that.  Not that big a deal to
change them, as long as the engine wasn't run without one of them.

> I can do it, what I 
> already did wasn't a
> big deal but,,,,opinions?  

If you are pleased with the result, then it's that easy.  I always seem to wind up with orange peel, or fish eyes, or some damn
thing, (last time, a horde of gnats were irresistibly attracted to the wet paint) so I just take mine to One Day Paint and let them
deal with it.

> I just want the damned thing to be drivable RELIABLY!  

Seems to me that the best path to reliability is to drive it on a regular basis.  Fix whatever breaks and drive it some more.  

These cars were never particularly reliable (by today's standards) even when new.  So, even if you get it perfectly restored, it
will still break from time to time.  It helps if you accept that as "normal".

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] More help needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

etc being the key word in that sentence. :)


. The local TR guy who
> had completely restored his '74 said it had a Kent cam etc. and was getting
> close to 200hp.


Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 07:57:45 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 09:33:21 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1387252696.5523.YahooMailNeo@web161201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] More help needed
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On 12/16/2013 10:58 PM, John Summers wrote:
> HELP!!! I'm at my wits end!!
John,

First the clutch. Black means your seals are shot. I would remove the MC 
and SC and rebuild/replace. Flush out the lines with alcohol as Randal 
suggested.

Also replace the plastic line with a SS one from Ted S. ( 
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ ) At this time it is also a good 
idea to replace the plastic oil pressure line with a SS line from Ted S.

I went with Dot 5 but it is not necessary.

The fact that your thrust washers are bad or dropped into the pan will 
not make your clutch fluid go black.

If your TW have dropped into your pan, your crank may be shot. ALso it 
is possible that the rear most end cap may also be shot which means a 
new block. (Caps are drilled to match the block and a new cap would have 
to be drilled accordingly.)

I would check your end float asap. If it is out of spec., remove the oil 
pan and check to see if the washers have dropped out. If so, pull the 
engine and maybe a complete rebuild is in order.

Rebuilding a 6 engine is not that hard if all the existing engine 
parts/block is in decent shape.

Get an engine stand and get a hold of an expert such as Wishbone ( 
http://www.wbclassics.com/ ) for advice and good parts. There are others 
but Wishbone was very helpful with my 72 rebuild.

As far as power upgrades, I have no advice. The only thing I did with my 
6 was replace the ZS carbs with Hitachi SU HS6 and added an electronic 
fuel pump. Rest is stock. The HS6 upgrade was not for power but for 
reliability and my knowledge of ZS carbs is zero.

Goodparts ( http://goodparts.com/ ) are a good source of upgrade 
parts/advice.

I have rebuilt both 3/4 engines and a 6 and I have to say that the 6 is 
much easier.

Good luck.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 11:13:06 -0800 (PST)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Great information, Thanks.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Yes, A BIG THANK YOU to all who gave advice.  It is MUCH appreciated!!!!  I
have dealt with Goodparts and TSI before and will check out the web sites of
the others you offered.  I used to be a member of Six Pack so I had better
re-join, huh?  
Thanks again:))

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 13:06:29 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 12:14:27 -0700
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http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=169


mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 17:47:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Smith <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Shipping an Engine?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all
 
I am intending to pull the engine in my TR next week and ship it from
Wisconsin to New York for rebuilding.  Does anyone have experience with
transport companies for items like this?  Is there one that you would
recommend over others based on price or customer service?
 
Thanks
Steve

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 00:25:12 2013
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From: "John McMaster" <john.mcmaster@netspeed.com.au>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 08:24:21 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac78N4QvoKKx5iSQQ8iY3cZOs4Q5FA==
Subject: [TR] DOLOMITE SPRINT WHEEL QUESTION?
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Hi,  Does anyone know the backspace/offset for a Dolomite Sprint alloy
wheel?  I'm looking for the measurement from centre line of rim to the hub
mounting face which is usually expressed as backspace, either positive or
negative.  Any wheel specifications would be very useful for my Sprint V6
project car..

 

TIA

 

John Mc

"Fast is First"

'71 TR6 PI

'76 Dolomite 1850

'76 Dolomite Sprint V6 Project

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 00:29:24 2013
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From: "ptegler" <ptegler@verizon.net>
To: "Steve Smith" <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1387417651.79342.YahooMailNeo@web160806.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:16:20 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Shipping an Engine?
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

...surprised as a Triumph you're not sending it to northwest Ohio, Hart 
Machining... via Ted Schumacher
(tsimportedautomotive.com)
heck...depending on timing  he's even picked up and delivered across the 
east coast and mid-west  :-)
We've driven engines out to him from here in MD, and he has delivered them 
back to us personally.

Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Smith" <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 8:47 PM
Subject: [TR] Shipping an Engine?


> Hi all
>
> I am intending to pull the engine in my TR next week and ship it from
> Wisconsin to New York for rebuilding.  Does anyone have experience with
> transport companies for items like this?  Is there one that you would
> recommend over others based on price or customer service?
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 15:29:32 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:18:26 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac79B5eOL54toOB1REaU0DWLYsxhfw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR3 question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Various of the parts attached to the firewall (voltage regulator, fuse box,
starter solenoid) have associated holes which are filled with - what do I
call them? - "things" which then secure the screws which hold the
accessories in place.  I have more round holes than I have these "things".
Does anyone know if they are available (or what they are called) ?  Many
thanks as always.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	Dec 2013 23:13:37 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:13:38 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac79B5eOL54toOB1REaU0DWLYsxhfwACAeQA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Various of the parts attached to the firewall (voltage 
> regulator, fuse box,
> starter solenoid) have associated holes which are filled with 
> - what do I
> call them? - "things" which then secure the screws which hold the
> accessories in place. 

I call them "clip nuts", the SPC calls them "nut, spire", and TRF calls them "nut, fix".  Are we confused yet?  I know I am...

Anyway, PN FC2805 and TRF probably has them in stock (unless I got the last of them).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:51:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Smith <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
To: "spook01@comcast.net" <spook01@comcast.net>,
	"triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Shipping an Engine?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all
Thanks for all of the advice.  I will try Yellow, I had thought only of
UPS and FedEx Ground.  I have heard good things about TSI but have a long
relationship with Wishbone Classics and I'm very comfortable with them, Kai
has gone well out of his way in the past to help me with my car, on no promise
of business, many times he's directed me at more suitable (and less costly)
solutions than I've dreamed up myself.
I'm already looking forward to next
summer!
Thank you all and best wishes
Steve



On Thursday, December 19, 2013
6:58 AM, "spook01@comcast.net" <spook01@comcast.net> wrote:
  
Either build
yourself a very sturdy reuseable case for it, or just strap the used engine to
a pallet covered in plastic.  Be sure its completely drained of all fluids,
and rinse out the cooling with water.
Then it can be shipped via any motor
freight such as yellow, etc.
I've bought and sold engines that way over the
years.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From:
"Steve Smith" <dogzbody1@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Shipping an Engine?
Date: Wed, Dec 18,
2013 7:47 pm


Hi all

I am intending to pull the engine in my TR next week
and ship it from
Wisconsin to New York for rebuilding.  Does anyone have
experience with
transport companies for items like this?  Is there one that
you would
recommend over others based on price or customer service?

Thanks
Steve

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 19:55:05 2013
Return-Path: <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Frank Fisher'" <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <00dd01cefd08$423a3640$c6aea2c0$@uprichard.net> 
	<1387496973.91236.YahooMailNeo@web141402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 21:35:24 -0500
Thread-Index: AQIQDp47oimqicO9+eko3zkZzVDBWgFFp8SlmdANQnA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Nope - not speed nuts.  And not caged nuts or grommets either.  They have
two loops on the back and help secure , for example the regulator.  I think
Randall understands what I am talking about, but I still can't find any
listed.

 

Andrew

 

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:50 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question

 

do you need more things or are you just trying to fill up the holes?

you will have more holes when finished than you need things.

i think your things might be speed nuts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-961-310?seid=srese1
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-961-310?seid=srese1&gclid=COne1_y7vbs
CFQlrfgodN1EAjw> &gclid=COne1_y7vbsCFQlrfgodN1EAjw

 

Frank

 

On Thursday, December 19, 2013 2:26 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:

Various of the parts attached to the firewall (voltage regulator, fuse box,
starter solenoid) have associated holes which are filled with - what do I
call them? - "things" which then secure the screws which hold the
accessories in place.  I have more round holes than I have these "things".
Does anyone know if they are available (or what they are called) ?  Many
thanks as always.



Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 20:37:53 2013
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You don't mean these "clip on nuts", do you:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#clip-on-nuts/=pvtf1g 

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:35 PM
To: 'Frank Fisher'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question

Nope - not speed nuts.  And not caged nuts or grommets either.  They have
two loops on the back and help secure , for example the regulator.  I think
Randall understands what I am talking about, but I still can't find any
listed.

 

Andrew

 

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:50 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question

 

do you need more things or are you just trying to fill up the holes?

you will have more holes when finished than you need things.

i think your things might be speed nuts.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-961-310?seid=srese1
<http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-961-310?seid=srese1&gclid=COne1_y7vbs
CFQlrfgodN1EAjw> &gclid=COne1_y7vbsCFQlrfgodN1EAjw

 

Frank

 

On Thursday, December 19, 2013 2:26 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:

Various of the parts attached to the firewall (voltage regulator, fuse box,
starter solenoid) have associated holes which are filled with - what do I
call them? - "things" which then secure the screws which hold the
accessories in place.  I have more round holes than I have these "things".
Does anyone know if they are available (or what they are called) ?  Many
thanks as always.



Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 06:31:13 2013
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From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville@hotmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>, Triumph List
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 07:11:53 -0600
References: <00dd01cefd08$423a3640$c6aea2c0$@uprichard.net>,
	<1387496973.91236.YahooMailNeo@web141402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<010901cefd2c$28554bb0$78ffe310$@uprichard.net>
	FILETIME=[0E029110:01CEFD85]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall has the right part number - you can see a picture of it in the
Standard Triumph Hardware catalog
http://tidentenn.com/pdf/Standard%20Triumph%20Hardware%20Catalog.pdf

I see Revington has them listed, Moss Europe shows them too if TRF is out.

> From: auprichard@uprichard.net
> To: yellowtr3@yahoo.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 21:35:24 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 question
>
> Nope - not speed nuts.  And not caged nuts or grommets either.  They have
> two loops on the back and help secure , for example the regulator.  I think
> Randall understands what I am talking about, but I still can't find any
> listed.
>
>
>
> Andrew

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 13:11:57 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pump Lessons Learned
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     So I have two oil pumps for my TR3. One looks like the original 1960 oil
pump (from my last rebuild). The clearances on it are way out of spec. My
second pump is a nondescript pump that I bought new off of Ebay at a bargain
price. It has good clearances and made good pressure in my last engine, but I
found that the rotor isn't pinned to the shaft. Here is a list of
miscellaneous info that I have learned from the experience thus far:

1. I
tried to drill through the rotor and shaft to put in an allen head set-screw.
It dulled the Harbor Freight titanium coated bits immediately.

2. I took it
to work and gave it to the machinist. A cobalt drill bit in a mill wouldn't
drill through it. He said forget about trying to tap it as well.

3. For kicks
I put the newer oil pump cylinder in the original oil pump. The clearances
were out of spec. The pump housing didn't appear too worn. It is conceivable
that the original pump just wasn't made that well.

4. My second (newer) pump
had 8.8 mm metric bolts holding it together instead of British standard
threads like the original. That might be a warning sign.

5. I ordered a pump
rebuild kit from British Parts Northwest. It came with the pinned shaft. I
went to install it in the newer housing and the assembly (rotor and cylinder)
is 0.117" longer than the pump housing. I took it to work and turned it down
on a lathe to clearance.

6. I tried the pump rebuild kit in the original old
1960 housing and the cylinder fits very loosely and out of spec.

7. There is
a guy named Steve Yott who makes new oil pump rotors where the shaft goes
through the impeller and out the bottom of the oil pump housing. This supports
the shaft/impeller on both ends. Racers use this and some street cars as well.
It was a little outside my price range at about $250 + a new oil pump. It is a
good idea though and I commend him on his engineering.

8. I wouldn't use any
oil pump where the rotor isn't pinned to the shaft.

9. Knowing what I know
now I would have just bought a new pump from BPNW. I would still check it to
make sure that the impeller is pinned to the shaft.

     -Bill Brewer
   
 Tehachapi, CA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:25:00 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or differential of
their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?
Thanks.

John DeLuca
1965 TR4A in restoration

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 20:03:32 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B5CAE50-10C2-492B-9D11-644CDE63C3CA@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:58:52 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

imho there is nothing superior to redline mtl.  itbs more expensive, but you 
will be able to tell the difference

-----Original Message----- 
From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 8:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Synthetic gear oil

Hello List,

Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or differential 
of
their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?
Thanks. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 21:36:28 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 20:28:09 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac79920hNm/O7oInTVSXSw5n/gnfVwAC+23g
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or 
> differential of
> their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?

I've been using Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in all my Triumph diffs for a long time.  The diff in my 59 TR3A was already well
worn when it came to me in 1984.  20 years and perhaps 200,000 miles later, it wasn't any worse.  ISTR I changed the pinion seal
once, but otherwise it was still working fine when the car got wrecked.

More recently, I switched to using Redline MT-90 in the transmissions and overdrives.  It improved the synchro action, and so far no
problems, at least not that I attribute to the oil.  I have had a few failures, but they clearly had other causes.

But I wouldn't use a synthetic in the transmission that wasn't designed for a synchronized transmission.  Reportedly some of the
gear oils on the market are too slick and interfere with synchro operation (which requires a certain level of metal-to-metal
friction).

Only "con" I see is increased cost.  The MT-90 in particular is worth shopping around for, as prices vary quite a bit.  Compared to
the cost of new synchro rings, it's a bargain.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B5CAE50-10C2-492B-9D11-644CDE63C3CA@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 23:56:46 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac7993ThnqTld6RoQEObJLr5EDj5UAAGcRZw
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I change to Red Line MT90(?), instantly could tell the difference in
shifting.  The old TR3 crashbox is still no race winner but much smoother
all around.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 8:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Synthetic gear oil

Hello List,

Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or differential
of their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?
Thanks.

John DeLuca
1965 TR4A in restoration

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 13:17:43 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
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 Add my vote for the Red Line MT-90. In a worn Herald gearbox, I saw a
significant improvement. It's no magic cure, of course, but that box shifts
much better and generally with much less grinding with the MT-90.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>


I change to Red Line MT90(?), instantly could tell the difference in
shifting.  The old TR3 crashbox is still no race winner but much smoother
all around.
Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 12:12:55 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Crankcase Evacuation System for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     Awhile back I bought a Kas Kastner book on modifying Triumphs. He had a
great idea where you vent your crankcase from the mechanical fuel pump
blanking plate and the valve cover to a port just below the header. The system
would be protected by an anti-backfire check valve. He claimed that if you did
that your engine would not develop leaks. It all seemed like a great idea
until I realized that on a street car all that would happen is that over time
you would fill up your glass pack muffler with oil and probably have a fire...
     It all got me thinking. What if you put a port in on the crossover piece
on the intake manifold? You would vent the valve cover and crankcase to there
and the engine vacuum would evacuate the crankcase. Has anyone ever done this?
Does something bad happen if you do?
     My last engine seemed to have a lot
of blow by from the oil cap on the valve cover and out the engine breather on
the side of the block. I am assembling a rebuilt engine now and wondering if
there is a way to improve it.
     And yes, I know that ideally there
shouldn't be blow by coming out the oil cap on the valve cover.

     -Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 13:58:57 2013
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	Dec 2013 20:55:25 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 12:55:27 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac7+iy2koXgzOVHyQLyZOOpnp6pTVQAAhy+A
Subject: Re: [TR] Crankcase Evacuation System for TR3
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> It all seemed like 
> a great idea
> until I realized that on a street car all that would happen 
> is that over time
> you would fill up your glass pack muffler with oil and 
> probably have a fire...

At least in theory, the fumes should be burned by the hot exhaust, so oil could not collect in the muffler.  I plan to try that
system myself, eventually.  Note that the valve is more important than just backfire prevention; it's a special valve that only
opens when the pressure is below ambient, and closes as the pulses of exhaust go by.  Otherwise, you would have exhaust blowing into
the crankcase.  You'll also want some sort of separator, to remove as much oil as possible from the blowby fumes.

>      It all got me thinking. What if you put a port in on the 
> crossover piece
> on the intake manifold? You would vent the valve cover and 
> crankcase to there
> and the engine vacuum would evacuate the crankcase. Has 
> anyone ever done this?

You have just described exactly the system used on TR4A, except it had a valve to limit the amount of vacuum and prevent reverse
flow.  (You really don't want to be sucking fuel/air mixture into the crankcase, every time you step on the throttle.)

> Does something bad happen if you do?

Yes.  Every time you open the throttle to accelerate, you get maximum blowby, but there is no manifold vacuum.  So the crankcase
winds up being pressurized and blowing oil out in other places (like the rear main seal).

The cure for that (and the way most American engines are plumbed) is to have a large diameter fresh air intake back to some place in
front of the carbs, so that any reverse flow at full throttle gets let out without building pressure, and sucked into the intake to
be burned.

> I am assembling a rebuilt engine now 
> and wondering if
> there is a way to improve it.

Make sure the rings gaps are the right size, the rings fit the pistons properly, and the cylinder walls are properly prepared.

>      And yes, I know that ideally there
> shouldn't be blow by coming out the oil cap on the valve cover.

It's actually normal to have a small amount, at idle.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 13:43:40 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:
My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped the casing
lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One is now
working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does anyone have
a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be willing to sell.
I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find the correct
early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date stamped horn.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 14:39:15 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 07:32:50 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
	Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1B5CAE50-10C2-492B-9D11-644CDE63C3CA@sbcglobal.net>
	<E24317AC9E744AE69DF7638AEFB1E763@Datsun>
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/20/13, 7:58 PM, Dave wrote:
> imho there is nothing superior to redline mtl.  itbs more expensive, 
> but you will be able to tell the difference
>
I'm running Redline MTL 75W80 GL-4 gear oil in my 1960 Land Rover's 
gearbox. MUCH better shifting when I start out in Freezing weather and 
all the time.  This oil does not harm brass.  I intend to use it in he 
TR3 next oil change.

The limited slip diff in the TR3 and the air locker diff in the Land 
Rover both use Redline 75W90 GL-5 gear oil.

I was told that this oil would help the diffs run cooler.  I've never 
personally never tried to measure the temperatures.  But the stuff seems 
to work just fine.

I'm happy with redline products.  I know my Land Rover's gear box is a 
LOT happier during the winter.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 14:59:44 2013
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: "'Jim Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <EC9C1D63-2F93-4AFF-8B35-EF2308EFCA93@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 15:45:54 -0600
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	FILETIME=[03FEE8F0:01CEFE96]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
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If per chance you can't repair or find correct horns. You can always clean
up the ones that can be seen under your hood and keep them there even if
they don't sound.  Then hide a pair of functional horns somewhere that can't
be seen.  Good luck!

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 12:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed

List:
My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped the
casing
lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One is now
working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does anyone
have a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be willing to
sell.
I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find the
correct early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date
stamped horn.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:10:14 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 15:55:57 -0600
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.20.105.192 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've had a long series of e-mail conversations with Steve Yott who 
knows more about our trannies than most of us have forgotten.  He did 
some testing where he had a window into the gearbox to see what was 
happening.  One think I wasn't aware of is that different lubricants 
"foam up" more than others.  He strongly recommends the Redline MT90 
- it foams less and is compatible with the synchros and 
overdrive.  When the lubricant foams up it doesn't lubricate as well.

So, another vote for Redline MT90.  As infrequently as the lubricant 
gets changed in the tranny, the ~$15 per quart is cheap insurance.

Cheers, Tony

At 10:28 PM 12/20/2013, Randall wrote:
> > Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or
> > differential of
> > their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?
>
>I've been using Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in all my Triumph 
>diffs for a long time.  The diff in my 59 TR3A was already well
>worn when it came to me in 1984.  20 years and perhaps 200,000 miles 
>later, it wasn't any worse.  ISTR I changed the pinion seal
>once, but otherwise it was still working fine when the car got wrecked.
>
>More recently, I switched to using Redline MT-90 in the 
>transmissions and overdrives.  It improved the synchro action, and so far no
>problems, at least not that I attribute to the oil.  I have had a 
>few failures, but they clearly had other causes.
>
>But I wouldn't use a synthetic in the transmission that wasn't 
>designed for a synchronized transmission.  Reportedly some of the
>gear oils on the market are too slick and interfere with synchro 
>operation (which requires a certain level of metal-to-metal
>friction).
>
>Only "con" I see is increased cost.  The MT-90 in particular is 
>worth shopping around for, as prices vary quite a bit.  Compared to
>the cost of new synchro rings, it's a bargain.
>
>Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:29:32 2013
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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 17:26:36 -0500
References: <20131221221002.215C74038B@autox.team.net>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just before leaving for the VTR Convention in Hudson WI in 1998, I changed the
fluid in my TR6 A OD tranny to MTL. Drove to the convention from Richmond, VA.
by way of Canada and put on a lot of miles. Tranny is still working well and
have changed the MTL in it once. Would not use any thing else in my
transmissions. Also use it in all the race cars.

Happy Holidays
Dean Tetterton


On Dec 21, 2013, at 4:55 PM, Tony Drews wrote:

> I've had a long series of e-mail conversations with Steve Yott who knows
more about our trannies than most of us have forgotten.  He did some testing
where he had a window into the gearbox to see what was happening.  One think I
wasn't aware of is that different lubricants "foam up" more than others.  He
strongly recommends the Redline MT90 - it foams less and is compatible with
the synchros and overdrive.  When the lubricant foams up it doesn't lubricate
as well.
>
> So, another vote for Redline MT90.  As infrequently as the lubricant gets
changed in the tranny, the ~$15 per quart is cheap insurance.
>
> Cheers, Tony
>
> At 10:28 PM 12/20/2013, Randall wrote:
>> > Does anyone use synthetic gear oil in the transmission and/or
>> > differential of
>> > their TRs?  Any comments on the pros and cons of using synthetic oil?
>>
>> I've been using Valvoline full synthetic gear oil in all my Triumph diffs
for a long time.  The diff in my 59 TR3A was already well
>> worn when it came to me in 1984.  20 years and perhaps 200,000 miles later,
it wasn't any worse.  ISTR I changed the pinion seal
>> once, but otherwise it was still working fine when the car got wrecked.
>>
>> More recently, I switched to using Redline MT-90 in the transmissions and
overdrives.  It improved the synchro action, and so far no
>> problems, at least not that I attribute to the oil.  I have had a few
failures, but they clearly had other causes.
>>
>> But I wouldn't use a synthetic in the transmission that wasn't designed for
a synchronized transmission.  Reportedly some of the
>> gear oils on the market are too slick and interfere with synchro operation
(which requires a certain level of metal-to-metal
>> friction).
>>
>> Only "con" I see is increased cost.  The MT-90 in particular is worth
shopping around for, as prices vary quite a bit.  Compared to
>> the cost of new synchro rings, it's a bargain.
>>
>> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:44:54 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 22:43:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: british-cars@autox.team.net
	s=q20121106; t=1387665812;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Red Ensign flag of Phil Ethier?   FOUND!
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jere Dotten has it and is mailing it back to me.  Thank you, Jere.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: pethier@comcast.net
> To: british-cars@autox.team.net
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 1:35:34 PM
> Subject: [TR] Red Ensign flag of Phil Ethier?
> Checking through my stuff, and I can't find my Red Ensign. Did I leave
> it flying someplace at the TRF Summer Party or the Lotus Owners
> Gathering?
> 
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier@comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 16:00:04 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 17:38:32 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <EC9C1D63-2F93-4AFF-8B35-EF2308EFCA93@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
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Jim,

They are somewhat re-buildable depending on the internals. If the coils 
are toast then so is the horn.

I was able to rebuild a set by drilling out the rivets and cleaning the 
contacts. But you have to really be careful on reassembly that the metal 
disc is not damaged. There is also a gasket that will be toast. You will 
need to replace the gasket as it offers some spacing so the metal disc 
will vibrate and therefore produce the horn sound.

I chose to replace the rivets with 1/4" screws just in case on 
reassembly the horn did not work.

Out of 4 broken horns, I was able to get 2 working and after 5 years 
they still work. For how long who knows?

I do see them on Ebay from time to time but the price tends to be a bit 
high.

Bob

On 12/21/2013 01:43 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
> List:
> My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped the casing
> lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One is now
> working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does anyone have
> a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be willing to sell.
> I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find the correct
> early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date stamped horn.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
> 62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
> 75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 19:07:59 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Creig Houghtaling'" <creig555@live.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <EC9C1D63-2F93-4AFF-8B35-EF2308EFCA93@gmail.com>
	<BLU168-DS435CA68CDD6C7D23AD60DAECC70@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 20:24:59 -0500
Thread-Index: AQLfAjZs7JRWIJSUU4hMVkvIbPWZ1gHSMa8LmDDSo9A=
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good backup plan! Thanks, jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Creig Houghtaling [mailto:creig555@live.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 4:46 PM
To: 'Jim Henningsen'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 Part Needed

If per chance you can't repair or find correct horns. You can always clean
up the ones that can be seen under your hood and keep them there even if
they don't sound.  Then hide a pair of functional horns somewhere that can't
be seen.  Good luck!

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 12:44 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed

List:
My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped the
casing
lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One is now
working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does anyone
have a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be willing to
sell.
I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find the
correct early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date
stamped horn.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
62 TR4 CT5212LO
62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 20:49:02 2013
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
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Subject: Horn repair





Send them to http://www.british-car-part-restoration.com/index.html



NFI and all that...

B 

Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 10:50:04 2013
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 12:49:04 -0500
References: <mailman.173.1387675591.2116.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I took mine apart too and it was and has been successful. If one is  
sort of working then I'd be fairly sure of success. I think it's  
mostly the result of corrosion of dissimilar metals. Once that is all  
cleaned up it should be good. The rivets are an odd size and I tapped  
the top piece and put in Allen head screws from the bottom. Fresh coat  
of paint few if anyone will notice.
Allen

On Dec 21, 2013, at 8:26 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Jim,
>
> They are somewhat re-buildable depending on the internals. If the  
> coils are toast then so is the horn.
>
> I was able to rebuild a set by drilling out the rivets and cleaning  
> the contacts. But you have to really be careful on reassembly that  
> the metal disc is not damaged. There is also a gasket that will be  
> toast. You will need to replace the gasket as it offers some spacing  
> so the metal disc will vibrate and therefore produce the horn sound.
>
> I chose to replace the rivets with 1/4" screws just in case on  
> reassembly the horn did not work.
>
> Out of 4 broken horns, I was able to get 2 working and after 5 years  
> they still work. For how long who knows?
>
> I do see them on Ebay from time to time but the price tends to be a  
> bit high.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/21/2013 01:43 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>> List:
>> My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped  
>> the casing
>> lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One  
>> is now
>> working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does  
>> anyone have
>> a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be  
>> willing to sell.
>> I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find  
>> the correct
>> early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date  
>> stamped horn.
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala, FL
>> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
>> 62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
>> 75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 11:06:07 2013
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: "=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 12:05:07 -0600
	s=q20121106; t=1387735511;
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Part_Needed?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You can get the correct rivets.  They are aircraft type, and come in the odd ball size you need.  Chat up a a&p guy at the local airport, or order online.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed
Date: Sun, Dec 22, 2013 11:49 am


I took mine apart too and it was and has been successful. If one is  
sort of working then I'd be fairly sure of success. I think it's  
mostly the result of corrosion of dissimilar metals. Once that is all  
cleaned up it should be good. The rivets are an odd size and I tapped  
the top piece and put in Allen head screws from the bottom. Fresh coat  
of paint few if anyone will notice.
Allen

On Dec 21, 2013, at 8:26 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Jim,
>
> They are somewhat re-buildable depending on the internals. If the  
> coils are toast then so is the horn.
>
> I was able to rebuild a set by drilling out the rivets and cleaning  
> the contacts. But you have to really be careful on reassembly that  
> the metal disc is not damaged. There is also a gasket that will be  
> toast. You will need to replace the gasket as it offers some spacing  
> so the metal disc will vibrate and therefore produce the horn sound.
>
> I chose to replace the rivets with 1/4" screws just in case on  
> reassembly the horn did not work.
>
> Out of 4 broken horns, I was able to get 2 working and after 5 years  
> they still work. For how long who knows?
>
> I do see them on Ebay from time to time but the price tends to be a  
> bit high.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/21/2013 01:43 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>> List:
>> My horns from my 62 TR4 are toast. Neither work at all.   I tapped  
>> the casing
>> lightly with a hammer to see if I could free up the mechanism.  One  
>> is now
>> working slightly, the other is not.  Are these rebuildable?  Does  
>> anyone have
>> a pair of working horns from an early TR4 that they would be  
>> willing to sell.
>> I am bringing this car back to stock and would really like to find  
>> the correct
>> early horns.  Unfortunately, one of mine was the orig 62 date  
>> stamped horn.
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala, FL
>> 62 TR4 CT5212LO
>> 62 TR4 CT6431L. The donor
>> 75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 16:22:35 2013
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:15:52 -0500
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>, 'Triumph Mail List'
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <9A4CA54A94A54823B03B8D27ECA2FA02@Datsun>
	SFS:(10009001)(377454003)(479174003)(41574002)(189002)(199002)(24454002)(46034005)(51704005)(47976001)(19580405001)(19580395003)(83322001)(81816001)(65806001)(80316001)(15975445006)(56816005)(77982001)(80976001)(83506001)(74706001)(81342001)(76482001)(74876001)(83072002)(59766001)(50986001)(65956001)(79102001)(85306002)(59896001)(64126003)(80022001)(47736001)(81686001)(90146001)(87936001)(66066001)(33656001)(85852003)(63696002)(84326002)(512934002)(76796001)(76786001)(54356001)(54316002)(49866001)(71186001)(46102001)(69226001)(4396001)(43066001)(51856001)(75432001)(74366001)(81542001)(56776001)(36756003)(74662001)(47446002)(74502001);
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Subject: Re: [TR] events this spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When exactly are you going? One below is in March I think.
Take a look at
https://www.ameliaconcours.org/

Nice location and great vehicles.

Doug
On 12/22/2013 3:03 PM, Dave wrote:
> hi, all.
>
> my son is in Alabama; we are trying to find a british car event to attend
> together this spring in the southeast.
>
> we were going to go to the pensacola show but he has a conflict with work.
> any recommendations?
>
> thanks!
>
>

-- 

p.s. I do not use a smart phone so if you email me and do not get a quick response it is not because I am ignoring you. Just not at a computer.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 17:22:52 2013
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>, Triumph List
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 19:21:41 -0500
References: <20131221221012.2598D4032A@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[F44F4CD0:01CEFF74]
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Switched over to MT90 myself years ago per Redlines recommendations. I'm sold
on it also.

Marty

----------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 15:55:57 -0600
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> From: tony@tonydrews.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
>
> I've had a long series of e-mail conversations with Steve Yott who
> knows more about our trannies than most of us have forgotten. He did
> some testing where he had a window into the gearbox to see what was
> happening. One think I wasn't aware of is that different lubricants
> "foam up" more than others. He strongly recommends the Redline MT90
> - it foams less and is compatible with the synchros and
> overdrive. When the lubricant foams up it doesn't lubricate as well.
>
> So, another vote for Redline MT90. As infrequently as the lubricant
> gets changed in the tranny, the ~$15 per quart is cheap insurance.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 21:03:25 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Synthetic gear oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded to my Q on changing transmission and differential
over to synthetic  oil.  Think I'll do it.

John DeLuca
65 TR4A in restoration

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 06:31:34 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 08:30:38 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7/4yXMkRjbfpFyRympY2Jvf4azPg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Chrome Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Any recommendations on a good company to use to rechrome a valve cover and
badge bar?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4 The project

62 TR4 The donor

75 TR6 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 06:36:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 06:35:09 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
	Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <001e01ceffe3$2dfff010$89ffd030$@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 12/23/13, 6:30 AM, James Henningsen wrote:
> Any recommendations on a good company to use to rechrome a valve cover and
> badge bar?
>
>
When I needed to rechrome parts on my TR3 I went to a local shop that 
specialized in modified Harley Davidsons.  I figured that if anyone knew 
the best local chromer it would be them.

You might ask at a local custom motorcycle shop.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 07:43:42 2013
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	triumphs@autox.team.net; Mon, 23 Dec 2013 08:41:19 -0600 (CST)
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001e01ceffe3$2dfff010$89ffd030$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 09:41:15 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I can recommend Metal Refinishing (owner's name is Jhoda) in Tampa;
http://www.floridametalrefinishing.com/index.htm 	Had a bunch of
little bits done last month, handbrake handle, gearshift, mirror surroundx2,
grab handle.   I think the handbrake was $125 which would be about the same
size as a badge bar.   

Also Spacecoast Plating in Melbourne.  http://www.spacecoast-plating.com/
Had large items done several years (2005) ago.  Bumper, over-riders,
windshield frame, stanchions.  Still looked like new when I finally
installed them this past fall.  Can't remember pricing but I am sure it is
different now.

I have heard good things about Exotic Chrome in Kissimmee
http://www.exotichrome.com/ but have not used them.  Someone in the Central
FL Triumph Club may know more http://cftriumph.tripod.com/ .


Carl
1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 8:31 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Chrome Recommendation

Any recommendations on a good company to use to rechrome a valve cover and
badge bar?

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4 The project

62 TR4 The donor

75 TR6 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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	<004f01ceffed$08c98680$1a5c9380$@verizon.net>
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 10:22:06 -0500
To: "<cfmtr3a@verizon.net>" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Recommendation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Carl:
Thanks so much!  I heard ExoticChrome was good too. Haven't been able to reach
them yet.  But it is the holidays .  Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and
Happy New Year to the list!
Jim Henningsen

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 23, 2013, at 9:41 AM, "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:

>
> I can recommend Metal Refinishing (owner's name is Jhoda) in Tampa;
> http://www.floridametalrefinishing.com/index.htm    Had a bunch of
> little bits done last month, handbrake handle, gearshift, mirror
surroundx2,
> grab handle.   I think the handbrake was $125 which would be about the same
> size as a badge bar.
>
> Also Spacecoast Plating in Melbourne.  http://www.spacecoast-plating.com/
> Had large items done several years (2005) ago.  Bumper, over-riders,
> windshield frame, stanchions.  Still looked like new when I finally
> installed them this past fall.  Can't remember pricing but I am sure it is
> different now.
>
> I have heard good things about Exotic Chrome in Kissimmee
> http://www.exotichrome.com/ but have not used them.  Someone in the Central
> FL Triumph Club may know more http://cftriumph.tripod.com/ .
>
>
> Carl
> 1960 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
> Tampa, FL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 8:31 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Chrome Recommendation
>
> Any recommendations on a good company to use to rechrome a valve cover and
> badge bar?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> 62 TR4 The project
>
> 62 TR4 The donor
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 10:39:34 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "'Triumph Mail List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <9A4CA54A94A54823B03B8D27ECA2FA02@Datsun>
	<52B772A8.8020508@uga.edu>
	<1387813633.45788.YahooMailNeo@web141403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 11:33:26 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] events this spring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

thatbs the same weekend as the pensacola event, which is the weekend he has
a conflict . . . .

From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 9:47 AM
To: mathews@uga.edu ; Dave ; 'Triumph Mail List'
Subject: Re: [TR] events this spring

how about the Mitty at road Atalanta?
Frank

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 18:41:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] It's here again !
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy Christmas everyone !!!

I look forward to reading emails in a day or so
about how many people unwrapped a set of new cam followers or - bated breath,
were the lucky recipient of a Churchill Service tool for measuring
differential pre-load or any other esoteric "I wish I had a ...." 

The UK
this season is lashed with pouring rain and high winds with perhaps a little
snow over Scottish hills - much like the average summer really. Have fun.
Jonmac

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 12:09:40 2013
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 19:08:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
	(Win)/6.0.13_GA_2944)
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Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] It's here again !
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I wish a glorious holiday season to you and yours!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 12:41:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] It's here again !
> Happy Christmas everyone !!!
> 
> I look forward to reading emails in a day or so
> about how many people unwrapped a set of new cam followers or - bated
> breath,
> were the lucky recipient of a Churchill Service tool for measuring
> differential pre-load or any other esoteric "I wish I had a ...."
> 
> The UK
> this season is lashed with pouring rain and high winds with perhaps a
> little
> snow over Scottish hills - much like the average summer really. Have
> fun.
> Jonmac
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 16:39:50 2013
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 18:38:25 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac8AN/yiQTLMTIqCQr+BAe6Stcse4A==
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Subject: [TR] Rotors
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Is there a torque spec for rotors?  I have always just utilized the "grunt"
system, but was unable to answer someone's question today.  My workshop
manual has a supplement for the TR3, but no mention of a torque.

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 18:58:23 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 17:54:00 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Rotors
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> Is there a torque spec for rotors? 

You mean the 4 bolts that hold them to the hubs?  TR4 workshop manual gives 32-35 ftlb.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 00:57:15 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 00:55:07 -0700
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Subject: [TR] A Triumph Christmas Decoration
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://s1162.photobucket.com/user/levi3451/library/Triumph%20Christmas%20Decoration?sort=3&page=1

Merry Christmas
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine and dinghy car for RV)
70 Spitfire MK III (parts car, FE engine donated to race car)
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 07:19:14 2013
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To: levilevi@comcast.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] A Triumph Christmas Decoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

What on earth could that be under all the wrapping?

;-)





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Dec 24, 2013 1:56 am
Subject: [TR] A Triumph Christmas Decoration


http://s1162.photobucket.com/user/levi3451/library/Triumph%20Christmas%20Deco
ration?sort=3&page=1

Merry Christmas
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine and dinghy car for RV)
70 Spitfire MK III (parts car, FE engine donated to race car)
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 11:57:52 2013
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unsubscibe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 12:52:00 2013
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From: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault@verizon.net>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 14:47:43 -0500
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Subject: [TR] One last drive?
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The sun is out.  Last night's rain washed the salt and much of the sand off
the roads.   It is only in the mid-30s F, and the top is up on the TR-6.  So
it was perfect for one last ride today.  It was not a long ride but it was
nice to get the car out and moving around.  It could be weeks, even months
before conditions are right again.  I will pull the battery so that I can
bring it into the cellar to attach it to the trickle charger, so it would be
a lot more work to take the car for a quick spin even if weather and road
conditions permit.  Three months -its not that long, right?

Ron L in sunny North Attleborough, MA.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 13:09:56 2013
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From: John Wise <john.a.wise@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 15:08:37 -0500
References: <002f01cf00e1$0363d6b0$0a2b8410$@net>
To: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault@verizon.net>
	FILETIME=[EE154020:01CF00E3]
	engine=2.50.10432:5.11.87,1.0.14,0.0.0000
	definitions=2013-12-24_06:2013-12-24,2013-12-24,1970-01-01
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Cc: car discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] One last drive?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Two of my Grandsons were here today & asked for their usual ride in the TR3A.
The sun is out, the temperature is 65F, and the top in in the garage.  My 3rd
grandson will be later & the week and has already relayed his request.  Since
they age between 4 and 10, I think they all see the TR as the perfect size for
them.  :-)

Merry Christms

John

John Wise
John.A.Wise@mac.com

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html




On  24 Dec, 2013, at 2:47 PM, Ron L'Herault <lherault@verizon.net> wrote:

> The sun is out.  Last night's rain washed the salt and much of the sand off
> the roads.   It is only in the mid-30s F, and the top is up on the TR-6.
So
> it was perfect for one last ride today.  It was not a long ride but it was
> nice to get the car out and moving around.  It could be weeks, even months
> before conditions are right again.  I will pull the battery so that I can
> bring it into the cellar to attach it to the trickle charger, so it would
be
> a lot more work to take the car for a quick spin even if weather and road
> conditions permit.  Three months -its not that long, right?
>
> Ron L in sunny North Attleborough, MA.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.a.wise@mac.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 02:47:48 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 02:46:18 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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	Firefox/25.0 SeaMonkey/2.22.1
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Have a pleasant weekend
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Karen and I are flying out of SLC to spend some time with family in 
Orange County.
Team.Net email seems to be fairly stable, so I am not too worried about 
it.  I'll check
on things remotely, but there may be issues that require my presence to 
fix.  So
enjoy your last weekend of 2013, see you next week.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 08:30:09 2013
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 10:28:45 -0500
	FILETIME=[005F6150:01CF0186]
Subject: [TR] Forums (off topic)
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I just want to send a thank you out to our fearless leader MJB for keeping us
on a mailing list format. Another group I belong to switched over to the forum
format and I am stuck in my old ways I guess but no sir, I just don't like it.
It is the new way I guess.  I know the mailing list are a big pain for Mark to
manage but it is more user friendly to me. You get to see activity
immediately, not have to search to see what's going on. So, THANK YOU MARK FOR
KEEPING US OLD SCHOOL!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 08:55:23 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <BLU168-W939439218804CFCEEAC57BBAC30@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 09:51:35 -0600
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my sentiments exactly!  thank you mark.

-----Original Message----- 
From: marty
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 9:28 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Forums (off topic)

I just want to send a thank you out to our fearless leader MJB for keeping 
us
on a mailing list format. Another group I belong to switched over to the 
forum
format and I am stuck in my old ways I guess but no sir, I just don't like 
it.
It is the new way I guess.  I know the mailing list are a big pain for Mark 
to
manage but it is more user friendly to me. You get to see activity
immediately, not have to search to see what's going on. So, THANK YOU MARK 
FOR
KEEPING US OLD SCHOOL! 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 08:56:24 2013
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References: <BLU168-W939439218804CFCEEAC57BBAC30@phx.gbl>
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 09:52:43 -0600
To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Forums (off topic)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Might be a good day to send Mark a little, or big, Christmas present.

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Dec 25, 2013, at 9:28 AM, marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

I just want to send a thank you out to our fearless leader MJB for keeping us
on a mailing list format. Another group I belong to switched over to the
forum
format and I am stuck in my old ways I guess but no sir, I just don't like
it.
It is the new way I guess.  I know the mailing list are a big pain for Mark
to
manage but it is more user friendly to me. You get to see activity
immediately, not have to search to see what's going on. So, THANK YOU MARK
FOR
KEEPING US OLD SCHOOL!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 16:52:32 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Drum Brake Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     So, I have a 1952 Triumph Renown. 3 times now the 4 drum brakes have all
got hot and seized up while I was driving. It happens at about the 45 minute
mark on an easy drive. I keep adjusting the shoes on the drum thinking that
they are just out of adjustment after so little use for so long. I don't see
any brake fluid leaking from the brake cylinders that would have soaked the
shoes. 
     I am trying to avoid taking on another project. Can this brake
problem be anything other than needing to put in new brake wheel cylinders and
shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but that is not working so far.

 
   -Bill Brewer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 18:16:16 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "'Triumphs'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 17:14:53 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8B1NcRPjKzTEgZQtinFwvOy/bIMgAAOmlg
Subject: Re: [TR] Drum Brake Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>      I am trying to avoid taking on another project. Can this brake
> problem be anything other than needing to put in new brake 
> wheel cylinders and
> shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but that is not 
> working so far.

Sure sounds to me like the return valve in the MC is not opening (or possibly the residual pressure valve).  Next time it happens,
try loosening the fitting at the MC and let a few drops of fluid out (onto a rag or something).  If the brakes release, then it's
clearly a MC problem.

Could be as simple as adjusting the pedal linkage or stop; or possibly a binding pedal pivot.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 18:56:06 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 17:48:11 -0800 (PST)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Drum Brake Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     So I just checked the brake pedal and it won't depress at all. It is like
the master cylinder won't budge. I cracked open the discharge line from the MC
and bled out a few drops. The brakes are still all locked and I can't push the
car.
     If the cylinders were leaking then it would be bleeding down, which
it is not. Maybe it is because the shoes are hot and swollen so there is
nothing for it to push against.

     The Renown has the same brakes as an
MGTF. To re-do the brakes with all new repro components is about $500 if you
do it all yourself. I am having the carb rebuilt and the front seat
reupholstered in leather. I have the engine out of the TR3 and am repainting a
door and fender on the TR6. My wife is not amused, not even at Christmas.

   
 -Bill


________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 5:14 PM
Subject:
RE: [TR] Drum Brake Questions
 

>      I am trying to avoid taking on another
project. Can this brake
> problem be anything other than needing to put in new
brake 
> wheel cylinders and
> shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but
that is not 
> working so far.

Sure sounds to me like the return valve in the
MC is not opening (or possibly the residual pressure valve).  Next time it
happens,
try loosening the fitting at the MC and let a few drops of fluid out
(onto a rag or something).  If the brakes release, then it's
clearly a MC
problem.

Could be as simple as adjusting the pedal linkage or stop; or
possibly a binding pedal pivot.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 20:03:30 2013
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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 22:02:09 -0500
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Drum Brake Questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If this car has old rubber lines, they can swell internally to the point that
they will cut off return flow of fluid - you can apply pressure and force
fluid thru the constriction, but the fluid will not return - leaving the
brakes locked. That would account for the reoccurrence after backing off the
adjustment - but it would be weird if it happened to all the lines at once -
one usually discovers this when it happens to one line resulting in the car
pulling hard to one side after braking.

Merry Christmas to all!
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:52 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:
>
>     So, I have a 1952 Triumph Renown. 3 times now the 4 drum brakes have
all
> got hot and seized up while I was driving. It happens at about the 45
minute
> mark on an easy drive. I keep adjusting the shoes on the drum thinking that
> they are just out of adjustment after so little use for so long. I don't
see
> any brake fluid leaking from the brake cylinders that would have soaked the
> shoes.
>     I am trying to avoid taking on another project. Can this brake
> problem be anything other than needing to put in new brake wheel cylinders
and
> shoes? I keep backing off on the adjusters, but that is not working so far.
>
>
>   -Bill Brewer
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx@aol.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 20:15:08 -0800 (PST)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My dashboard/instrument panel is old and sucks, to put it nicely.  I don't
want to spend the fortune that our favorite parts suppliers ask for theirs.
So, I went out today and bought a nice piece of Brazillian Mahogany, I think.
 My memory sucks also.  Does anybody have a pattern for a 1974 TR6 dash that
they would like to share?  I COULD trace it or take a photo of it and play
with it in Photoshop and take it to Office Depot and have them print a full
sized copy, but I, as always, am looking for the easier way.  Also, which
makes better sense:  Putting in a new Clutch master/slave cylinder or
rebuilding?  For an old man, I sure do ask a lot of questions don't I?  I hope
everybody has had a good holiday season thus far and their team has come up
victorious.
Go NOLES,,,,1/6/14.  Wish my dad was alive to see them playing in
the stadium called The Rose Bowl.  
Anyway,,,,,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 23:28:05 -0600
To: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I hate to be a wet blanket, but unless that's Brazilian Mahogany marine
plywood, it won't work as a dashboard - no solid piece of wood will - it will
warp and crack - unless you somehow never expose it to changing weather
(temperature and humidity) conditions.

Get a new clutch slave and have the master re-sleeved in brass and rebuild
it.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 27, 2013, at 10:15 PM, John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> My dashboard/instrument panel is old and sucks, to put it nicely.  I don't
> want to spend the fortune that our favorite parts suppliers ask for theirs.
> So, I went out today and bought a nice piece of Brazillian Mahogany, I
think.
> My memory sucks also.  Does anybody have a pattern for a 1974 TR6 dash that
> they would like to share?  I COULD trace it or take a photo of it and play
> with it in Photoshop and take it to Office Depot and have them print a full
> sized copy, but I, as always, am looking for the easier way.  Also, which
> makes better sense:  Putting in a new Clutch master/slave cylinder or
> rebuilding?  For an old man, I sure do ask a lot of questions don't I?  I
hope
> everybody has had a good holiday season thus far and their team has come up
> victorious.
> Go NOLES,,,,1/6/14.  Wish my dad was alive to see them playing in
> the stadium called The Rose Bowl.
> Anyway,,,,,
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:08:48 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John - I tend to agree with Jack on the plywood, but have seen a few
solid dashes hold up ok (but seen more cracked ones)

I just refinished one for our TR6 that we raffled off for charity and it
had a crack in it - but was able to glue it up and it refinished just fine.

 for me - I recently put veneer over the dash from the 73.  it was mostly
in good shape but was delaminated in places so I glued and clamped those
places back together.  Here's a link - There was a really detailed
instuction out there but i can't find it right now.

http://ffr5355.wordpress.com/about/p-dashboard-construction/

I'll see if I can lay my dash on the scanner and send you some images - you
might beable to print them and see how it fits - enlarge or adjust as
needed.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 2013-02-18_19-28-32_684 (1).jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 2013-02-19_20-59-17_158 (2).jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:11:39 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Sorry  - I just re-read my note - the link is not mine.  Sorry for any
> confusion.
>

P.S.  I'm getting a garage for Christmas!!!   My wife just insisted that we
make it larger!   I must be asleep....

chris

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 08:37:30 2013
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From: John Wise <john.a.wise@mac.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:35:52 -0500
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	FILETIME=[804484A0:01CF03E2]
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
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In the for what it is worth category.

A long, long time ago (1968?) and in a place far, far away (Webb Air Force
Patch in W Texas), I decided my 58 MGA would look much better with a wood
dash. (Jet jocks need a snappy looking sports car.) So I went down to the
local lumber yard & bought a appropriate sized piece of wood (too long ago to
remember what kind) and after a lot of hole cutting and fitting/refitting, I
varnished it and put it in that trusty MGA.  I kept the car as my daily driver
for 15 more years in Pittsburgh, St Louis, and then back in Pittsburgh.  All
places with hot, muggy summers and cold, miserable winters.  And when I sold
the car, the dash was as solid and crack free as when I put it in.

John

John Wise
John.A.Wise@mac.com

http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Johns_Resume.html


On  28 Dec, 2013, at 10:08 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi John - I tend to agree with Jack on the plywood, but have seen a few
> solid dashes hold up ok (but seen more cracked ones)
>
> I just refinished one for our TR6 that we raffled off for charity and it
> had a crack in it - but was able to glue it up and it refinished just fine.
>
> for me - I recently put veneer over the dash from the 73.  it was mostly
> in good shape but was delaminated in places so I glued and clamped those
> places back together.  Here's a link - There was a really detailed
> instuction out there but i can't find it right now.
>
> http://ffr5355.wordpress.com/about/p-dashboard-construction/
>
> I'll see if I can lay my dash on the scanner and send you some images - you
> might beable to print them and see how it fits - enlarge or adjust as
> needed.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
2013-02-18_19-28-32_684 (1).jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
2013-02-19_20-59-17_158 (2).jpg]
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.a.wise@mac.com

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard
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Chris,
Regarding the new garage, it might be a trick to get a place to store 
Christmas decorations... Ask me how I know.
LOL,
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard


>> Sorry  - I just re-read my note - the link is not mine.  Sorry for any
>> confusion.
>>
>
> P.S.  I'm getting a garage for Christmas!!!   My wife just insisted that 
> we
> make it larger!   I must be asleep....
>
> chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt@fuse.net

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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Chris Simo'" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:58:02 -0500
Thread-index: Ac8D9fda3YWYEpNIQh6gRA4qwlvvfQ==
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Subject: Re: [TR] New Garage
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btdt....  :0)

But - Chris, go for as large as you can get.   In the case of a garage -
bigger is definitely better.    

Not knowing if it is attached or separate from the house - seriously think
about 10' or even 12' walls - especially if a lift is ever a possibility.
the extra height also helps with keeping it cooler in the summer.   Typical
2 car garages are 22x22;  add an extra 10-12' on the back for workspace or
even a separate room (heated and/or a/c'd).  allows for more use during
those hot or cold days.   (but again - keep the decs out.  I lost that
battle and about 4x10')     I built a loft over the back room which is great
for rough storage.   mine is an insulated metal garage - overall is 25x35; 2
doors on short end; room at the back.   3 elect circuits around the
perimeter;  a 4-plug receptacle every 5 ft (every third rec is on the same
circuit) plus a 220 in one corner.  Also a circuit for lights (ten 4'
fluorescents) and another for ceiling fans (4) .  The small room & loft has
3 more circuits; 1 for lights; 1 for rec; & 1 for a/c.  (it's Florida - we
don't have to worry about heat :^) ).  The one thing I am kicking myself
about is no plumbing.   washing up isn't a problem - there is a garden
spigot on the outside of the building but it is a long walk into the house
for...  But the cost would have been much much more.

Just some things for you to think about.   PLUS - she will get the main
garage back for parking her car without fumes, oils spots, a mess in the
corner....

Carl
Great Christmas present.....
 



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 11:37 AM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard

Chris,
Regarding the new garage, it might be a trick to get a place to store
Christmas decorations... Ask me how I know.
LOL,
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ye olde dashboard


>> Sorry  - I just re-read my note - the link is not mine.  Sorry for any
>> confusion.
>>
>
> P.S.  I'm getting a garage for Christmas!!!   My wife just insisted that 
> we
> make it larger!   I must be asleep....
>
> chris
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt@fuse.net

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 20:00:17 -0500
Thread-index: Ac8E+oF1//W+BEAVRYWDfhaoCZZcxw==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I am deciding on whether to put new chrome wires on my TR4 rebuild project.
I want to go tubeless and wondered what the experiences of the list were
from Dayton or Dunlop wheels. Also, do you need a specialty shop to mount
the tires on these?  Since my 4 is an early one, I am also considering the
wide white walls as on the original postcard photo and dread going to the
local tire shop to have mounted.  I can just see a black streak on the white
walls from their machine.  Haven't had wires before so appreciate any
feedback.  Just pulled the rear axle out and leaf springs for a redo.  

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 06:18:51 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:11:32 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <132701cf04fa$8282f7b0$8788e710$@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

I have painted Daytons on my 63 4. So far they have worked out very 
well. The car had the original Dunlop wheels but they were in terrible 
shape. All the loose spokes I tried to repair were frozen. So when a set 
came up on Ebay, I jumped. Fitted 165/15 Cooper black walls. But alas, 
the Coopers are NLA.

I used the Harbor freight setup to mount the tires. Also fitted tubes 
sourced from Moss.

I believe I just finished my 8th season and so far no loss of air.

I also have heard on this list that the painted steel spokes are 
stronger than the SS version. Not sure about the chrome version. Most 
likely same as the painted.

It is my opinion that wire wheels look best on a 4 of all the Triumphs.

I have the stock wheels on my 58 3 and Super Lite silvers on my 72 6. 
Quite a nice contrast when they are all together.

Bob

On 12/29/2013 08:00 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> I am deciding on whether to put new chrome wires on my TR4 rebuild project.
> I want to go tubeless and wondered what the experiences of the list were
> from Dayton or Dunlop wheels. Also, do you need a specialty shop to mount
> the tires on these?  Since my 4 is an early one, I am also considering the
> wide white walls as on the original postcard photo and dread going to the
> local tire shop to have mounted.  I can just see a black streak on the white
> walls from their machine.  Haven't had wires before so appreciate any
> feedback.  Just pulled the rear axle out and leaf springs for a redo.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 07:03:48 2013
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References: <132701cf04fa$8282f7b0$8788e710$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 07:01:51 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim --

I have recently (1 year) put the Daytons on my other LBC and had to reseal
the spokes to get them to hold air w/o tubes.  Possibly due to the factory
seal being scraped during mounting (looked pretty skimpy to me) but they
are fine now.

I have had the painted Dunlops on my TR4 for about a decade (on & off as I
also use them on my TR3A) and think they look great -- but that's just my
taste:  E-Types look right with chrome wires, TRs look right with painted.

I, too, mount and balance my own with Harbor Freight equipment.  Just
replaced my old Coopers with Vreds this past week.  185/15s are very easy
to mount thanks to that tall side wall.  I always mount from the backside
so there are no marks on the rim or tire when I'm done.  A shop should be
able to do the same if that is your concern.

Geo


On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 6:00 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am deciding on whether to put new chrome wires on my TR4 rebuild project.
> I want to go tubeless and wondered what the experiences of the list were
> from Dayton or Dunlop wheels. Also, do you need a specialty shop to mount
> the tires on these?  Since my 4 is an early one, I am also considering the
> wide white walls as on the original postcard photo and dread going to the
> local tire shop to have mounted.  I can just see a black streak on the
> white
> walls from their machine.  Haven't had wires before so appreciate any
> feedback.  Just pulled the rear axle out and leaf springs for a redo.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala, FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 07:37:54 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 09:34:49 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I've decided this is the season to replace the convertible top on my 75 
TR6.  The last 38 years have about taken their toll, and I can no longer 
stretch it enough to fasten it.

TRF has a 20% off sale going on right now...but there are three choices 
of material.  As little as I actually use the top, it won't get much 
exposure, but as I do want to be able to drive on days other than 
absolutely perfect and predictable, I need a top I can count on.

Will the minimum Robbins top do?  (with stripes and zips, of course)

Any other suggestions to consider?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

---
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 09:06:16 2013
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From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson@charter.net>
To: "'Jeff'" <fishplate@charter.net>, "'*Triumphs List'"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <52C18489.6000206@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 10:58:33 -0500
Thread-Index: AQMyV3gHldC98FhUvpCOKrP3NTdD5pemQHoA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

We just bought the mid-line Robbins top with a zippered window but without
the stripes from TRF. Can't tell you much more because it's still in the box
and under the tree!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 9:35 AM
To: *Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top

I've decided this is the season to replace the convertible top on my 75 TR6.
The last 38 years have about taken their toll, and I can no longer stretch
it enough to fasten it.

TRF has a 20% off sale going on right now...but there are three choices of
material.  As little as I actually use the top, it won't get much exposure,
but as I do want to be able to drive on days other than absolutely perfect
and predictable, I need a top I can count on.

Will the minimum Robbins top do?  (with stripes and zips, of course)

Any other suggestions to consider?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

---
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <132701cf04fa$8282f7b0$8788e710$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 10:50:28 -0600
Thread-index: Ac8E+oF1//W+BEAVRYWDfhaoCZZcxwAg2xJg
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

James,

Alan at Hendrix Wire Wheel discouraged me from going tubeless even though my
new Dunlop 60-spoke painted wheels were touted to be such.

Instead of the DIY route I waited for a sale and had Moss ship the wheels to
him, bought Nankang wide white walls from Diamondback and had them shipped
to Hendrix as well.  Alan took care of re-painting the wires red to match
the interior of the car, mounting, balance & shaving.  All was securely
packaged and shipped to me for immediate installation. Now I turn heads
wherever I drive it, see June of last year's BCF calendar.

BTW, per Alan, chrome wires have SS spokes and are not as strong and the
painted steel.

NFI,
Bill 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of moss13.JPG]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <132701cf04fa$8282f7b0$8788e710$@gmail.com>
	<DDCA701E167A4D5199C3F9A33E54EF9F@bboffice>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 11:56:39 -0500
Thread-index: AQL852Kb2E72dOmr2zvGFqN0tmu51AFU4LdmmAaJqIA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill and all:	
Thanks for the responses on the wire wheel question.  I am going to give
Alan a call at Hendrix. 
Cheers,
Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech@flash.net [mailto:wbeech@flash.net] 
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 11:50 AM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Wire Wheels

James,

Alan at Hendrix Wire Wheel discouraged me from going tubeless even though my
new Dunlop 60-spoke painted wheels were touted to be such.

Instead of the DIY route I waited for a sale and had Moss ship the wheels to
him, bought Nankang wide white walls from Diamondback and had them shipped
to Hendrix as well.  Alan took care of re-painting the wires red to match
the interior of the car, mounting, balance & shaving.  All was securely
packaged and shipped to me for immediate installation. Now I turn heads
wherever I drive it, see June of last year's BCF calendar.

BTW, per Alan, chrome wires have SS spokes and are not as strong and the
painted steel.

NFI,
Bill 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 12:14:59 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 11:08:06 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8FYbtWr6FObCbET0KRE74hHQ/SXwAL/A5w
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I also have heard on this list that the painted steel spokes are 
> stronger than the SS version. Not sure about the chrome version. 

I believe it was the chrome spokes that were weak.  The chrome plating process releases hydrogen, which weakens the steel (hydrogen
embrittlement).

Modern "chrome" Dayton wire wheels only come with polished SS spokes (at least in the spline drive versions).
http://www.daytonwirewheel.com/spline_drive.php

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 12:17:18 2013
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References: <52C18489.6000206@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 13:11:12 -0600
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 8:34 AM, Jeff <fishplate@charter.net> wrote:

> I've decided this is the season to replace the convertible top on my 75
> TR6.  The last 38 years have about taken their toll, and I can no longer
> stretch it enough to fasten it.
>
> TRF has a 20% off sale going on right now...but there are three choices of
> material.  As little as I actually use the top, it won't get much exposure,
> but as I do want to be able to drive on days other than absolutely perfect
> and predictable, I need a top I can count on.
>
> Will the minimum Robbins top do?  (with stripes and zips, of course)
>

Jeff,

After reading excellent reviews over the years of Robbins tops, I finally
replaced the original top on my TR6 with a Robbins top this past summer.
The Robbins top is beautifully made, it fits great and looks great on my
TR6. BUT, IMO there is a design flaw. The "pillow" that acts as a seal
between the trailing edge of the door glass and the top is located about
1/2" too far rearward. As a result, the door glass barely contacts the
sealing surface and sealing in that area is poor, as I discovered on my way
to 6-Pack TRials in September. When I got to TRials, I looked over every
other TR6 there. Of the 60+ TR6's, only a handful did not have that issue,
and those cars without the issue did not have Robbins tops. If your car is
going to be out in the weather infrequently, then it should not be a
problem for you. I have attached a pic of my car which shows the problem.
The list will strip the attachment from the other subscribers, but you will
be able to see what I feel is the flaw. HTH.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U original owner
Highland Park, IL

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Robbins Top poor fit at back edge of window.jpg]

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 12:54:12 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 11:50:15 -0800
From: Allan Reich <areich@telus.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, fishplate@charter.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff:
I was in the same position about a year ago and I decided on a coloured 
top! My friend had a red TR5 with a red top and it looked fantastic! I 
have a French Blue 1975 TR6 and I got a dark blue vinyl top from Rimmer 
Bros. and I love the way it accents my car.
Obviously depends on your colour!
Allan Reich
Vancouver
1975 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 14:29:45 2013
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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 15:19:15 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

Am going through rear suspension components in preparation for reassembly.
Have Armstrong dampers.  About twice the force is required to move one damper
arm vs. the other.  Seems like the resistance of the two dampers should be
close.  Fluid levels are equal.

So, should the resistance of the dampers be close to the same?  If they
aren't, is there an easy fix?  BTW, is there an off-the-shelf oil that can be
used, or is TR shock absorber fluid required.  Thanks.

John DeLuca
TR4A in Restoration

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 14:41:12 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:39:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier@comcast.net
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I spoke (no pun intended) directly with an engineer at Dayton. B 
Chromed-steel spokes are no good do to hydrogen embrittlement.
Stainless spokes are strong, but the threads are not strong enough to allow
serious tightening.
The best bet for serous driving is painted steel. B Dayton uses high-strength
wire with robust threads and tightens the wires enough that the wheels are
very rigid. B The wheels should never need to be trued.

Best wheels for spirited driving are alloys. B If you must have wire wheels,
go with Dayton painted wheels. B Strong, original in appearance, and cheaper
than the chrome/stainless ones.
B 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier@comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 1:08:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
> > I also have heard on this list that the painted steel spokes are
> > stronger than the SS version. Not sure about the chrome version.
>
> I believe it was the chrome spokes that were weak. The chrome plating
> process releases hydrogen, which weakens the steel (hydrogen
> embrittlement).
>
> Modern "chrome" Dayton wire wheels only come with polished SS spokes
> (at least in the spline drive versions).
> http://www.daytonwirewheel.com/spline_drive.php
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 16:53:59 2013
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From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy@genfiniti.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:52:05 -0600
References: <F05D3BE6-8BA3-4711-8CB2-EB4FEB48DFF4@sbcglobal.net>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I would expect them to be roughly equal.

You might try draining each, inspecting/cleaning the inside "valve", refilling
and checking again.
If they are still not even, then I suspect one of the "valves" is bad.

Right or wrong, I used Harley Davidson fork oil in mine.


On Dec 30, 2013, at 3:19 PM, john-marie@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Hello List,
>
> Am going through rear suspension components in preparation for reassembly.
> Have Armstrong dampers.  About twice the force is required to move one
damper
> arm vs. the other.  Seems like the resistance of the two dampers should be
> close.  Fluid levels are equal.
>
> So, should the resistance of the dampers be close to the same?  If they
> aren't, is there an easy fix?  BTW, is there an off-the-shelf oil that can
be
> used, or is TR shock absorber fluid required.  Thanks.
>
> John DeLuca
> TR4A in Restoration
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy@genfiniti.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 17:08:16 2013
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References: <F05D3BE6-8BA3-4711-8CB2-EB4FEB48DFF4@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:06:39 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I, too, use fork oil from a local motorcycle shop.  It is available is
various weights (10, 20 & others).

Geo


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 2:19 PM, <john-marie@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Hello List,
>
> Am going through rear suspension components in preparation for reassembly.
> Have Armstrong dampers.  About twice the force is required to move one
> damper
> arm vs. the other.  Seems like the resistance of the two dampers should be
> close.  Fluid levels are equal.
>
> So, should the resistance of the dampers be close to the same?  If they
> aren't, is there an easy fix?  BTW, is there an off-the-shelf oil that can
> be
> used, or is TR shock absorber fluid required.  Thanks.
>
> John DeLuca
> TR4A in Restoration
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 17:21:16 2013
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F05D3BE6-8BA3-4711-8CB2-EB4FEB48DFF4@sbcglobal.net>
	<CANzE1bGi2SmKn2gUrz992Y0XkdBEyaxKJbtXBPaCdBXQJUNMiA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:18:09 -0500
Thread-index: AQI4pdtqlYDZVGe+17b8yKFCXNHMiAL28CAEmYJ3XfA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I noticed that some shops rebuild the dampers for heavy duty.  Is there a
special weight of oil to upgrade the dampers or is there a rebuild and valve
switch out required. I too need to rebuild my dampers and want to upgrade
their performance as I have Moss competition leaf springs and ARE bronze
bushings ready to install. 
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 x2
75 TR6
Ocala, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 7:07 PM
To: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)

I, too, use fork oil from a local motorcycle shop.  It is available is
various weights (10, 20 & others).

Geo


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 2:19 PM, <john-marie@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Hello List,
>
> Am going through rear suspension components in preparation for reassembly.
> Have Armstrong dampers.  About twice the force is required to move one 
> damper arm vs. the other.  Seems like the resistance of the two 
> dampers should be close.  Fluid levels are equal.
>
> So, should the resistance of the dampers be close to the same?  If 
> they aren't, is there an easy fix?  BTW, is there an off-the-shelf oil 
> that can be used, or is TR shock absorber fluid required.  Thanks.
>
> John DeLuca
> TR4A in Restoration
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 18:13:42 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F05D3BE6-8BA3-4711-8CB2-EB4FEB48DFF4@sbcglobal.net><CANzE1bGi2SmKn2gUrz992Y0XkdBEyaxKJbtXBPaCdBXQJUNMiA@mail.gmail.com>
	<13ea01cf05bd$c9c17390$5d445ab0$@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:11:45 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg

I highly recommend these people.  itbs a heavy duty valve according to them. 
I went with the heavy duty as you can see on the receipt.  one of mine was 
leaking, and of course I could tell a significant difference right away.

what I think is funny is that if I had gone with a tube shock conversion, I 
would be extolling its virtues and saying how much better it is.



-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 6:18 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)

I noticed that some shops rebuild the dampers for heavy duty.  Is there a
special weight of oil to upgrade the dampers or is there a rebuild and valve
switch out required. I too need to rebuild my dampers and want to upgrade
their performance as I have Moss competition leaf springs and ARE bronze
bushings ready to install.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4 x2
75 TR6
Ocala, FL 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 19:05:57 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 02:04:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net>
To: Dave <dave@ranteer.com>
	s=q20121106; t=1388455443;
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave, 
You nailed it with the World Wide Auto Parts connection. 
Anyone interested in renewing and or rebuilding or upgrading their lever arm shocks should contact Peter Caldwell at World Wide, also known as Nosimport.com. 
Peter will provide you with the best bang for your buck. I have no financial interest to this topic, only completely satisfied results from doing business with Peter. 
You could drain, partially disassemble, clean and refill your shocks with 30wt. motorcycle fork oil, but they will never work like a fresh rebuild set from Nosimport. Their prices are very reasonable. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com> 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 5:11:45 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers) 

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg 

I highly recommend these people. itbs a heavy duty valve according to them. 
I went with the heavy duty as you can see on the receipt. one of mine was 
leaking, and of course I could tell a significant difference right away. 

what I think is funny is that if I had gone with a tube shock conversion, I 
would be extolling its virtues and saying how much better it is. 



-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen 
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 6:18 PM 
To: triumphs@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A rear dampers (shock absorbers) 

I noticed that some shops rebuild the dampers for heavy duty. Is there a 
special weight of oil to upgrade the dampers or is there a rebuild and valve 
switch out required. I too need to rebuild my dampers and want to upgrade 
their performance as I have Moss competition leaf springs and ARE bronze 
bushings ready to install. 
Thanks, 
Jim Henningsen 
62 TR4 x2 
75 TR6 
Ocala, FL 

** triumphs@autox.team.net ** 

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 19:38:05 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 18:35:37 -0800 (PST)
From: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Millimeters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok all you Triumphista's.  I finally got around to doing the test where you
check how much wear you have on your thrust bearings, today.  There WAS play
in the crankshaft.  At one extreme it was 27.7mm
Pushed back in the
measurement was 25.2mm.  According to my math,,,the difference is 2,5mm   How
bad/good is that?  I have fretted over this day for fifteen years.  I recently
received EVERY SIZE thrust washer sold by Rimmer Bros.  I have a pair called
"Standard", whatever that is.  The next size says +5, the next reads +10 and
the last pair reads +15.  Any clues about what those translate into?  I guess
I pull out my digital caliper and measure, huh?  Opinions are welcomed.  
Also
tonight my'98 Maxima was acting weird like the battery was going bad.  That is
commonplace here in hell - Florida.  Took it to NAPA where I bought the
battery, got it tested and it had a bad cell so I replace it with the next
higher quality battery.  Turn the ignition - nothing. We played around with
different batteries for an hour and the starter wouldn't even click.  Bad
starter?  Bad solenoid ? Bad starter ground? Tomorrow is the 31st and I
figured nobody would want to spend the time to troubleshoot until Thursday or
Friday, if that, so I had it tows to my driveway.  Good thing the grocery and
pharmacy are only a mile away, huh?  Opinions?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 20:15:52 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "John Summers" <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1388457337.87623.YahooMailNeo@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:14:06 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Millimeters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The crankshaft endplay is of course a major issue with these motors, but if 
you are aware of the problem and stay on top of it it becomes a simple 
maintenance issue, and not a source for catastrophic failure.  the 
measurements are .005", .010", .015" over standard for the thrust washers, 
there should presumably be an allowable end play reading in the manual as 
well which you will need to factor in.  Main thing you need to avoid is the 
thrust washer wearing to the point that it falls out, then the crank and 
block chew each other up, very very bad.

Changing the washers can be done with the engine in place, but you have to 
drain the oil and drop the pan, and you might get a few drips of oil on you.

As far as the Maxima, proud owner of a 99 Maxima, 5 speed, 140,000 miles, 
not sure what your issue is, my old RX-7 had a similar issue once and it was 
a "fusible link" basically a fuse, that had burned out when I jump started 
my wife's car.  If you have a 5 speed (unlikely) the cut off switch that 
keeps the thing from starting without the clutch fully engaged can fail and 
keep it from starting.  Assume you are getting the warning lights on when 
you turn the key so you are at least getting juice through the system. 
Modern cars electrical problems are about a 100 times more complex than the 
ones on our old LBCs, where you can run through the components of the system 
and possible problems in your head or on the fingers of one hand.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 20:57:43 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:56:00 -0600
To: John Summers <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  >
References: <1388457337.87623.YahooMailNeo@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.20.105.192 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] Millimeters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

2.5 mm end play in the crank is a bad, bad thing.  It should be a few 
thousandths of an inch, or a tenth or two of a mm of movement.  If 
you have 2.5 mm of movement you likely have no thrust washers left at 
all and possibly have a ruined block and crankshaft.

Tony Drews

At 08:35 PM 12/30/2013, John Summers wrote:
>Ok all you Triumphista's.  I finally got around to doing the test where you
>check how much wear you have on your thrust bearings, today.  There WAS play
>in the crankshaft.  At one extreme it was 27.7mm
>Pushed back in the
>measurement was 25.2mm.  According to my math,,,the difference is 2,5mm   How
>bad/good is that?  I have fretted over this day for fifteen years.  I recently
>received EVERY SIZE thrust washer sold by Rimmer Bros.  I have a pair called
>"Standard", whatever that is.  The next size says +5, the next reads +10 and
>the last pair reads +15.  Any clues about what those translate into?  I guess
>I pull out my digital caliper and measure, huh?  Opinions are welcomed.
>Also
>tonight my'98 Maxima was acting weird like the battery was going bad.  That is
>commonplace here in hell - Florida.  Took it to NAPA where I bought the
>battery, got it tested and it had a bad cell so I replace it with the next
>higher quality battery.  Turn the ignition - nothing. We played around with
>different batteries for an hour and the starter wouldn't even click.  Bad
>starter?  Bad solenoid ? Bad starter ground? Tomorrow is the 31st and I
>figured nobody would want to spend the time to troubleshoot until Thursday or
>Friday, if that, so I had it tows to my driveway.  Good thing the grocery and
>pharmacy are only a mile away, huh?  Opinions?
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 21:29:49 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 23:27:45 -0500
References: <mailman.9.1388430002.15209.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[A7F1D250:01CF05E0]
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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James,Beware of chromed spokes; they are brittle and snap off at the
hub, thanks to "hydrogen embrittlement" which occurs during chroming. If you
want chromed wire wheels, make sure the spokes are NOT chromed!
The chrome Dayton wire wheels have stainless steel spokes which are not
chromed, whereas the chromed Dunlop wire wheels had (and probably still have)
chromed spokes.
My Austin-Healey 3000 came to me in 1999 with 4 chromed Dunlops each having
chromed spokes (and a painted spare). To date, after 14 years and about 25,000
miles 4 of the Dunlops have fractured some chromed spokes . The first wheel
failed 2 chromed spokes the first year and stupidly I thought this was a fluke
and had it rebuilt with chromed spokes. The next year that same wheel failed 5
chromed spokes and a second wheel broke 2 chromed spokes. I had both wheels
rebuilt with stainless steel spokes but this took 2 months and I bought one
new new chromed Dayton wheel with stainless steel spokes so I could drive the
car. Twelve years later one of the two remaining wheels with chromed spokes
failed 13 spokes on a single 1000 mile drive between eastern Quebec and
Michigan.
-Dave Murphy , Dearborn MI
'76 TR6  & '66 Austin Healey 3000.


> I am deciding on whether to put new chrome wires on my TR4 rebuild project.
> I want to go tubeless and wondered what the experiences of the list were
> from Dayton or Dunlop wheels. Also, do you need a specialty shop to mount
> the tires on these?  Since my 4 is an early one, I am also considering the
> wide white walls as on the original postcard photo and dread going to the
> local tire shop to have mounted.  I can just see a black streak on the
white
> walls from their machine.  Haven't had wires before so appreciate any
> feedback.  Just pulled the rear axle out and leaf springs for a redo.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 22:03:14 2013
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	Dec 2013 05:01:30 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'John Summers'" <rivers2hills@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:01:31 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8F0StP3+b0b8/6TdWK2KJPZU5qIQAEi9GQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Millimeters
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> According to my math,,,the 
> difference is 2,5mm   How
> bad/good is that?

Don't drive it again, until you've dropped the pan & changed the washers.  If you are lucky, the old worn out washer is still
protecting the surfaces and you can just slip in new ones.  But as others have mentioned, you are getting close to the point where
the washer can slip out, resulting in major damage the very next time you step on the clutch.

> Any clues about what those 
> translate into?

Doesn't really matter, at this point.  You have to find a pair that give the specified clearance.  If the crank has never been
reconditioned, then most likely a pair of standards, or maybe one standard and one +5 will do.  But you won't know for sure until
you try them.  Sometimes even factory cranks were undersize.

> Turn the ignition - nothing.

Do you mean no lights at all?  Or just no starter?

If you have an automatic, the safety interlock switch might be a possibility.  The wife's Toyota had one that would work 99% of the
time, but every once in awhile you had to hold the shifter forward to get it to crank.  Sometimes, shifting to neutral (instead of
Park) will help.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 22:31:31 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 00:29:47 -0500
References: <mailman.9.1388430002.15209.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	FILETIME=[51CBE6F0:01CF05E9]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jeff,
I put a new black Sunfast canvas top on my TR6 this year.

I'd lived with the original vinyl top since I bought the car new in 1977. I
made the mistake of putting the top down one 60F winter day in 1978 and not
raising it back up until after supper when the temperature was back in the
thirties. I had to forcefully stretch the top to latch it to the windshield
header and ever since that day the top became too narrow to meet the velcro on
the side rails.

Even when new I never liked the appearance of that original vinyl top and I
almost never used it except in an emergency, so that in 2013 it still looked
about the same as it had in 1979.

The new top meets up at the windows is as it should and the velcro attaches to
the side rails. The zip out back window works well.

The new canvas material is a little thicker than the original vinyl material
and it is slightly bulkier to fold. The Sunfast canvas will pick up lint from
a cloth towel and leather flakes from an old chamois - but a sticky-backed
lint roller takes care of that.

The new Sunfast canvas top looks so much more elegant than did the original
vinyl top. Maybe it's because there are no reflective stripes. Or maybe it's
because its deeper matt black color contrasts more with the Java Green car!

I almost always leave the top up now. (I don't think I'd say that about a new
vinyl top.)

-Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, ''76 TR6.




> I've decided this is the season to replace the convertible top on my 75
> TR6.  The last 38 years have about taken their toll, and I can no longer
> stretch it enough to fasten it.
>
> TRF has a 20% off sale going on right now...but there are three choices
> of material.  As little as I actually use the top, it won't get much
> exposure, but as I do want to be able to drive on days other than
> absolutely perfect and predictable, I need a top I can count on.
>
> Will the minimum Robbins top do?  (with stripes and zips, of course)
>
> Any other suggestions to consider?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 05:57:06 2013
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 04:55:25 -0800
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 04:55:25 -0800
	FILETIME=[8EC2DC60:01CF0627]
Subject: [TR] oil pump prep
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

After cleaning and checking specs, how do you prep your oil pump for
installation?  Pack with Vaseline, pack with something else, or leave alone
and just install?

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 06:11:48 2013
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From: "Bob" <75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-DS178B402C6AC9873154E77C1C90@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 08:09:52 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] oil pump prep
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I packed it with Vaseline......... 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/OilPump.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Peter Arakelian
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 7:55 AM
To: Listers
Subject: [TR] oil pump prep

After cleaning and checking specs, how do you prep your oil pump for
installation?  Pack with Vaseline, pack with something else, or leave alone
and just install?

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 06:18:11 2013
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Peter Arakelian <peterara@msn.com>, Listers
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-DS178B402C6AC9873154E77C1C90@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [TR] oil pump prep
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Peter,

I did the same thing as with bearings, pistons etc. I used engine 
assemble lube during assembly. The red stuff.

This includes the gear and shaft as well.

I have heard of some owners, using a drill to prime the pump before 
installing the drive shaft but I did not have to do that step.

After full engine assembly, I just cranked it without spark plugs until 
I saw some pressure indicated on the gauge. Once fired up and running, 
pressure was what you would expect from a fresh rebuilt engine. Plenty 
of oil in the rocker shaft.

Bob

On 12/31/2013 07:55 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> After cleaning and checking specs, how do you prep your oil pump for
> installation?  Pack with Vaseline, pack with something else, or leave alone
> and just install?
>
> Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 09:42:10 -0500
References: <mailman.647.1388459732.2116.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Millimeters
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Google will be happy to translate. 2.5mm = 0.098 inch and if you can't  
visualize that, Google's initial search returns 2.5mm audio jacks;  
mini stereo plug. Rimmer's sizes are the standard thickness plus .005  
inch, .010 inch etc. I know little if anything about TR6 but 1/10 inch  
is way too much and the thrust washer may already be gone. Standard  
thickness on a TR4 thrust washer is 0.092 inch total and the max. end  
play is .007".

Allen
On Dec 30, 2013, at 10:15 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Pushed back in the
> measurement was 25.2mm.  According to my math,,,the difference is  
> 2,5mm   How
> bad/good is that?  I have fretted over this day for fifteen years.   
> I recently
> received EVERY SIZE thrust washer sold by Rimmer Bros.  I have a  
> pair called
> "Standard", whatever that is.  The next size says +5, the next reads  
> +10 and
> the last pair reads +15.  Any clues about what those translate into?

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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 09:05:38 -0600
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to all who responded.  I'll let the List know what I do.

John DeLuca
TR4A in restor.

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 08:19:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 09:16:43 -0600
To: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>,"Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <COL127-DS178B402C6AC9873154E77C1C90@phx.gbl>
	{sentby:smtp auth 173.20.105.192 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] oil pump prep
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I lubricate the parts with Redline assembly lube (the red stuff 
mentioned), but don't pack it full.  I do pre-lube with a drill prior 
to first firing it up and the pump always primes quickly and produces 
appropriate oil pressure.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 06:55 AM 12/31/2013, Peter Arakelian wrote:
>After cleaning and checking specs, how do you prep your oil pump for
>installation?  Pack with Vaseline, pack with something else, or leave alone
>and just install?
>
>Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <john-marie@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <2C887360-4595-4310-8FD6-F67E3B007218@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 11:00:05 -0500
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Subject: Re: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
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I just lost all of my saved emails - arghh.  Can someone please send me the
contact info for the lever shock rebuilder.  I believe it was NOS Imports
but want to verify.  Thanks, Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 10:06 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Re TR4A dampers

Many thanks to all who responded.  I'll let the List know what I do.

John DeLuca
TR4A in restor.

Sent from my iPad

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 09:37:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 10:35:16 -0600
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <2C887360-4595-4310-8FD6-F67E3B007218@sbcglobal.net>
	<001101cf0641$60524900$20f6db00$@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's the key sentence from that exchange:
"Anyone interested in renewing and or rebuilding or upgrading their 
lever arm shocks should contact Peter Caldwell at World Wide, also 
known as Nosimport.com."

Cheers, Tony

At 10:00 AM 12/31/2013, James Henningsen wrote:
>I just lost all of my saved emails - arghh.  Can someone please send me the
>contact info for the lever shock rebuilder.  I believe it was NOS Imports
>but want to verify.  Thanks, Jim Henningsen
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
>[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>john-marie@sbcglobal.net
>Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 10:06 AM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
>
>Many thanks to all who responded.  I'll let the List know what I do.
>
>John DeLuca
>TR4A in restor.
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 12:02:51 -0500
To: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks! Jim

Sent from Jim Henningsen


> On Dec 31, 2013, at 11:35 AM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
> Here's the key sentence from that exchange:
> "Anyone interested in renewing and or rebuilding or upgrading their lever
arm shocks should contact Peter Caldwell at World Wide, also known as
Nosimport.com."
>
> Cheers, Tony
>
> At 10:00 AM 12/31/2013, James Henningsen wrote:
>> I just lost all of my saved emails - arghh.  Can someone please send me
the
>> contact info for the lever shock rebuilder.  I believe it was NOS Imports
>> but want to verify.  Thanks, Jim Henningsen
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>> john-marie@sbcglobal.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 10:06 AM
>> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
>>
>> Many thanks to all who responded.  I'll let the List know what I do.
>>
>> John DeLuca
>> TR4A in restor.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75@gmail.com
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 10:24:28 2013
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From: "Dave" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <2C887360-4595-4310-8FD6-F67E3B007218@sbcglobal.net><001101cf0641$60524900$20f6db00$@gmail.com><52c2f24d.8564420a.24df.ffffb305SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
	<8DF79FB2-50E9-44F0-82EC-27080AE3B419@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 11:14:37 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Re TR4A dampers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

here's a receipt from them

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg

>
> At 10:00 AM 12/31/2013, James Henningsen wrote:
>> I just lost all of my saved emails - arghh.  Can someone please send me
the
>> contact info for the lever shock rebuilder.  I believe it was NOS Imports
>> but want to verify.  Thanks, Jim Henningsen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 12:03:18 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 13:59:31 -0500
From: Dennis Culligan <dctr6@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac8GWm/jcH+uKAGGTNSHMuYvy8HYWg==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Convertible Top;
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net> wrote:

<snip>

>IMO there is a design flaw. The "pillow" that acts as a seal between the
trailing edge of the door glass and the top is >located about 1/2" too far
rearward. As a result, the door glass barely contacts the sealing surface
and sealing in that >area is poor,

Irv 

   I have a Robbins top on my TR6 and had it installed a few years ago by a
Preferred Robbins installer.  The fit is perfect. There is an overlap
between the window and the pillow of at least = from top to bottom and
the car is as weatherproof as a British roadster can be expected to be. Note
that the installation cost me more than the sale price of the Robbins top
but it appears that it was worth it.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 13:21:15 2013
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 13:17:23 -0700
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Subject: [TR] Bolts for Spitfire Hardtop?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Now that it's no longer a Christmas decoration I was playing with the  
new Spit and realized the front on the hardtop is not bolted down at  
all. Good thing I didn't take it out on the hightway first. Can anyone  
tell the size (length, TPI, etc.) bolt I need to look for?  Looks like  
four are needed of the same size.  First Spit hardtop for me so I know  
little to nothing about them. A pic would also be great.

I'd like to keep the hardtop on for the rest of the winter and not  
take it off in order to figure out the bolts needed. Also is there an  
attachment to the hardtop (in back /sides and above where the rag top  
rack bolts to the tub) that looks like a hook bolt of some sort should  
be holding it. But they are no where to be found if they were ever  
there. Any ideas on what those bolts look like?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine and dinghy car for RV)
70 Spitfire MK III (parts car, FE engine donated to race car)
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

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