From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 19 19:40:33 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANzE1bGxebJMR8k=h+x7pzFTFTvDgoVp9Oz+V641r0vTA9r5eQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 20:31:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 63 tr4, and although the first two owners heavily modified it, it 
does have the starter button down low on the engine.  yes, it is very hard 
to reach.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 5:18 PM
To: Randall
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)

On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Also a question for those more familiar with early TR4 than I am :
> Shouldn't the starter solenoid be up on the shelf, where it can
> be reached easily?  In the photos, I don't see how you'd get your finger
> on the rubber button.
>


My recollection is that early TR4s had the button down there on the engine
and at some point in production STC moved it to the shelf due to heat
related problems -- so this one is possibly correct.

Geo 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 19 19:43:37 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPK7CFDO4T+qW5AJqwMwLF1fuuGKP-GqrNPU_yteSPKzhUsKHw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 20:37:42 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
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probably tr6 seats.  the dash would have been metal.  the dash, the seats, 
and ??? on the interior are not original.

you will have trouble selling this car due to these flaws.

likely there are other, non original modifications, further devaluing the 
car.

you are better buying a car that the seller acknowledges the issues rather 
than someone who clearly does not know these cars.  honestly, I would not 
touch this car.  this guy is just a used car salesman.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Don Hiscock
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 1:15 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)

NFI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Other-Roadster-1962-TR4-ORIGINAL-CA-CAR-RUST-FREE-RESTORED-ORIGINAL-DETAILED-HISTORY-/321465220384?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4ad8d1fd20&item=321465220384&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave@ranteer.com 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 19 21:59:17 2014
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From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 20:58:37 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
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I'm sorry. What "issues"?  Yes, some modifications have been done to the
car, but that doesn't make it worth less. Some modifications make it worth
more. If you're a true-ist and want everything original there's nothing I
could see that wasn't able to be bolted back on. And cheaply.

Most original Triumph owners modified their cars in one way or another
because, admit it or not, our cars had drawbacks that needed fixed. Crappy
seats. Huge steering wheels that broke. No tunes. Detuned engines. No
cupholders. Saggy rear ends. You name it. The number of "original" cars is
extremely limited. Most of the ones I've seen at VTR concours are receptors
of what the suppliers have to offer. Trailer queens.

I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including freeways. I
would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car, because
mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans, Nissan
rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and subwoofer. And
it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with modifications,
is worth as much if not more than an original.

Questions to ask are: Is the body straight? How do the doors/bonnet/trunk
fit? Is there rust anywhere? Do the keys match? Does the body paint/interior
color/overdrive match the registration tag? Etc.

For $17,000, it's sounds like an eBay thing. Probably more like $12,000 on
the open market, as it seems to be a straight and complete car. The
modifications are up to the owner.

Johnnie





> you will have trouble selling this car due to these flaws.
> 
> likely there are other, non original modifications, further devaluing the
car.
> 
> you are better buying a car that the seller acknowledges the issues rather
than
> someone who clearly does not know these cars.  honestly, I would not touch
this
> car.  this guy is just a used car salesman.
> 


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 21:21:26 -0700
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone advise how I can put the archives to work for me. thanks, Joe Mato

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 04:48:36 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:48:09 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
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Thank you, Mark.  I hadn't tried, thinking you were still having issues with it.  Thank you for doing that!

Terry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 8:30:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump

terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> I've decided to pay more attention to the spare parts I carry.  And since archives are down

Well, sort of.  The archives ( link below for the real time folks ) are there and working.
The current problem is that the data has not been updated for many months.  I'm working on
it at the moment, hope to make some good progress this evening.

A lot of folks rely on the archives, I feel badly about them not working properly.

mjb.

ps: I did get 264 hits when searching for "facet"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 07:49:43 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 08:49:13 -0500
To: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  >
References: <1405830086.33079.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] archives
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Click the archive link at the bottom of any list message:
Next to the list name "Triumph" click either Date or Thread
In the search box at the top, type your search term (eg "facet fuel pump")
click the search button
For "facet fuel pump" there are 252 results.

On the results page there's also a link "how to search" that looks 
like it could be helpful.

Tony

At 11:21 PM 7/19/2014, JOSEPH MATO wrote:
>Can anyone advise how I can put the archives to work for me. thanks, Joe Mato
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Facet
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I believe Randall sent this link a few years ago. I cant remember what 
model but here is a  good source for all things Facet.


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php


Bob

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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:14:16 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The one I used on my spitfire is, I believe, 40105:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

Note that it's Facet, not Fawcett.

On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 4:53 PM,  <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:
> I've decided to pay more attention to the spare parts I carry.  And since archives are down, does anyone know the number of the fawcett fuel pump that works on TR3's.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate@gmail.com

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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:15:40 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net,  "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't forget the Facet filters - they are a very fine mesh to protect
the pump.  Use them in addition to your regular filter.

On Sun, Jul 20, 2014 at 10:13 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
> The one I used on my spitfire is, I believe, 40105:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php
>
> Note that it's Facet, not Fawcett.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 4:53 PM,  <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:
>> I've decided to pay more attention to the spare parts I carry.  And since archives are down, does anyone know the number of the fawcett fuel pump that works on TR3's.
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
>> New Hampshire
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 09:14:55 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 08:08:23 -0700
From: ron landis <rdltr250@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Type A overdrive question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List.  I have a type A OD on my TR250.  It is from an Austin Healy.  On
occasion the OD will not "kick in", when I hit the switch.  I t appears the
solenoid is not working.  Then by magic it starts working.  I have replaced
the solenoid, relay under the hood, and the 3/4 th gear switch on the
transmission, also checked the spacers, and checked the Ground wire.  

Any
Ideas??

Thanks
Ron

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 09:44:11 2014
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'ron landis'" <rdltr250@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1405868903.89906.YahooMailNeo@web181506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 11:44:17 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHFiwYAV0R9d34HOYPNYCdLtamb6Zu9S/Ig
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Type A overdrive question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron:  with the ignition on and the car in 3rd or fourth you should hear a
distinct click when engaging the overdrive.  If you hear a click, check you
have plenty of oil in the system.  If there is no click, the problem is
electrical.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ron
landis
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 11:08 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Type A overdrive question

List.  I have a type A OD on my TR250.  It is from an Austin Healy.  On
occasion the OD will not "kick in", when I hit the switch.  I t appears the
solenoid is not working.  Then by magic it starts working.  I have replaced
the solenoid, relay under the hood, and the 3/4 th gear switch on the
transmission, also checked the spacers, and checked the Ground wire.  

Any
Ideas??

Thanks
Ron

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 10:40:34 2014
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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:40:12 -0600
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To: ron landis <rdltr250@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Type A overdrive question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ron,

Check the wires on the OD column switch. I had a similar problem and it was
one of the wires on the switch that appeared to be connected but was broken
and would work/not work intermittently depending on the last bump in the road.

In addition, I also had a bad relay that happened about the same time that
caused me to chase my tail for quite awhile. Always fun when two things are
bad.

A careful soldering of the switch wire was needed and fixed the problem (along
with a new relay).

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Jul 20, 2014, at 9:08 AM, ron landis <rdltr250@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> List.  I have a type A OD on my TR250.  It is from an Austin Healy.  On
> occasion the OD will not "kick in", when I hit the switch.  I t appears the
> solenoid is not working.  Then by magic it starts working.  I have replaced
> the solenoid, relay under the hood, and the 3/4 th gear switch on the
> transmission, also checked the spacers, and checked the Ground wire.
>
> Any
> Ideas??
>
> Thanks
> Ron
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 10:49:28 2014
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 11:49:15 -0500
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Annoying "bulb-blub-blub" sound
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anybody know what causes the "bulb-blub-blub burble sound you get when
you let up on the gas, especially loud in higher gears. It sounds like muffled
explosions in the mufflers. My car (TR6) has started doing it excessively and
I really would like to get rid of it. So far I have adjusted the valves,
checked timing, checked the lean/rich mixture and all seemed fine. The next
step is to slap another set of Strombergs on to see if it goes away. I am
stumped. The sound started about 1/3 of the way back to Minnesota from the Hot
Springs British Car Week gathering in early June and has been getting worse
ever since. Other symptoms, hesitation on acceleration and some missing. The
distributor has recently been rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced Distributor so I
dont think that is the culprit.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 11:04:50 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CANzE1bGxebJMR8k=h+x7pzFTFTvDgoVp9Oz+V641r0vTA9r5eQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 12:04:39 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There is useful information on this site, written in Healey, some of it 
translates to Triumph.

http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 11:05:13 2014
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 20 Jul 2014 17:05:05 +0000
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Joe DeMuth'" <jdemuth@mac.com>, "'Triumphs@autox.team.net'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:05:07 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+kOpC2eqfOCP6DRTuL2DdrBgmK/wAATAbQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Annoying "bulb-blub-blub" sound
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Does anybody know what causes the "bulb-blub-blub burble
> sound you get when
> you let up on the gas, especially loud in higher gears. It
> sounds like muffled
> explosions in the mufflers.

That's usually just what it is.  The carbs tend to go lean under deceleration,
and with the throttle fully closed and rpm high,
combustion chamber pressure is very low.  As a result, the fuel/air mixture
doesn't burn in the cylinder.  But it does burn
eventually when it gets into the exhaust system.

The hesitation and missing would also point to mixture being too weak, under
the conditions where it happens.

Probably first place I'd check would be the diaphragms in the carbs.  A split
or leak can cause the mixture to go lean.  Another
thing to check would be the bypass valves in the carbs, which exist just to
prevent this from happening.  You could also try going a
turn richer on the mixture adjustment and see what effect that has.

Sometimes, a reduction in exhaust backpressure will make the problem worse.
You might check the exhaust for leak or missing baffles
in the mufflers.

I assume you've already done an ignition tune-up.  New plugs (or at least
clean and gap), points, etc.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 11:19:35 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'ron landis'" <rdltr250@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 10:19:07 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+kLWRIAfuxQ0kwQ3a9P0qbzZFoDAAD3sZw
Subject: Re: [TR] Type A overdrive question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> It appears the solenoid is not working.  Then by magic it starts working.  
> 
> Any Ideas??

Get a meter, hook it up, take a test drive.  If there is power getting to the solenoid when it fails to engage, then you have
divided the problem in half (it's not in the control switches, relay, etc.)

Then do it again with the cover off, so you can do a visual on the solenoid.  If it is getting power but not moving, your new
solenoid is bad.

Did you check the solenoid adjustment after changing it?  If you just used the "pin in the hole" method as given in the book, I
would suggest trying the "ball lift" method given in the Buckeye Triumphs articles.  Sometimes the internal components wear enough
to make the hole method inaccurate; and erratic engagement can be a symptom of incorrect adjustment.  The ball gets harder to lift
when there is full pressure against it, so the linkage flexes more and doesn't get the ball off the seat.

Also check how far the solenoid plunger can fall.  Some ODs have an adjustable stop there (which can fall out), some just use a
rubber button (which can also be missing).  If the plunger falls too far, the solenoid may not be able to pick it up.  But usually
the solenoid burns up soon after, so that probably isn't the problem.

In my most recent round of A-type problems, it was the pull-in contacts inside the solenoid that were intermittent.  Since it had
already been changed about 15 years ago, I decided to try adding a snubber diode to protect those contacts.  Dunno if it will
actually help, but it should.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
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.

I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including freeways. I
would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car, because
mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans, Nissan
rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and subwoofer. And
it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with modifications,
is worth as much if not more than an original.



What is sad for me is that you still claim to drive a Triumph!  You really
should have bought a clapped out Camaro, then no one would care when you piled
the "mods" on it.  Surely you jest in saying  that your modification laden
"street rod" is worth more than an original!


Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 15:16:59 -0500
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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> Man, lighten up. To each his own.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 06:11:08 -0400 (EDT)
> From: loumetelko@aol.com
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about
>    it)
> Message-ID: <8D172E33927819F-3F4-EEAB@webmail-m276.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> .
> 
> I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including freeways. I
> would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car, because
> mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
> comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans, Nissan
> rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and subwoofer. And
> it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with modifications,
> is worth as much if not more than an original.
> 
> 
> 
> What is sad for me is that you still claim to drive a Triumph!  You really
> should have bought a clapped out Camaro, then no one would care when you piled
> the "mods" on it.  Surely you jest in saying  that your modification laden
> "street rod" is worth more than an original!
> 
> 
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
> ****************************************

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 14:45:38 2014
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 16:45:51 -0400
From: <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
To: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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Well said Joe, I agree.
JVV

---- Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com> wrote: 
> > Man, lighten up. To each his own.
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 06:11:08 -0400 (EDT)
> > From: loumetelko@aol.com
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about
> >    it)
> > Message-ID: <8D172E33927819F-3F4-EEAB@webmail-m276.sysops.aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > 
> > .
> > 
> > I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including freeways. I
> > would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car, because
> > mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
> > comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans, Nissan
> > rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and subwoofer. And
> > it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with modifications,
> > is worth as much if not more than an original.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > What is sad for me is that you still claim to drive a Triumph!  You really
> > should have bought a clapped out Camaro, then no one would care when you piled
> > the "mods" on it.  Surely you jest in saying  that your modification laden
> > "street rod" is worth more than an original!
> > 
> > 
> > Lou Metelko
> > Auburn, Indiana
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 14:58:34 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Who is supposed to lighten up?


John, who declares on a Triumph list that he uses a Toyota gearbox, Miata
seats and a Nissan rear because his TR 'sucked'?

Or Lou, who is saddened by this wholesale replacement of Triumph parts with
Japanese parts?


I realize anyone can do what they wish with their car, but if sentiments
are expressed I have to agree with Lou.

Geo




On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 1:45 PM, <jerryvv@roadrunner.com> wrote:

> Well said Joe, I agree.
> JVV
>
> ---- Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com> wrote:
> > > Man, lighten up. To each his own.
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 06:11:08 -0400 (EDT)
> > > From: loumetelko@aol.com
> > > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about
> > >    it)
> > > Message-ID: <8D172E33927819F-3F4-EEAB@webmail-m276.sysops.aol.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> > > I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including
> freeways. I
> > > would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car,
> because
> > > mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
> > > comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans,
> Nissan
> > > rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and
> subwoofer. And
> > > it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with
> modifications,
> > > is worth as much if not more than an original.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > What is sad for me is that you still claim to drive a Triumph!  You
> really
> > > should have bought a clapped out Camaro, then no one would care when
> you piled
> > > the "mods" on it.  Surely you jest in saying  that your modification
> laden
> > > "street rod" is worth more than an original!
> > >
> > >
> > > Lou Metelko
> > > Auburn, Indiana
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Home Consolidated <triumphs@consolidated.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 17:40:39 -0500
To: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with Joe. There are more than enough in museums, and I want not the
car Dad bought in 1959 but the car I wanted in 1968. And the modern upgrades
really do make the usable today.

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 21, 2014, at 3:16 PM, Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com> wrote:

>> Man, lighten up. To each his own.
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 06:11:08 -0400 (EDT)
>> From: loumetelko@aol.com
>> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about
>>   it)
>> Message-ID: <8D172E33927819F-3F4-EEAB@webmail-m276.sysops.aol.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> .
>>
>> I drive my car every day to work. 15 miles each way including freeways. I
>> would really be put off if I had to do that in the showroom car, because
>> mine was that at one time, and it sucked. So I put in some creature
>> comforts, Miata seats, better brakes, a tuned engine, a Toyota trans,
Nissan
>> rear end and bigger tires. And, oh yes, a stereo with amp and subwoofer.
And
>> it looks bitchin too! I'll venture to bet that my car, with modifications,
>> is worth as much if not more than an original.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is sad for me is that you still claim to drive a Triumph!  You really
>> should have bought a clapped out Camaro, then no one would care when you
piled
>> the "mods" on it.  Surely you jest in saying  that your modification laden
>> "street rod" is worth more than an original!
>>
>>
>> Lou Metelko
>> Auburn, Indiana
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Subject: Digest Footer
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Triumphs mailing list
>> Triumphs@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
>> ****************************************
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Home Consolidated" <triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <mailman.16.1405965603.5390.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 19:17:25 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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I agree with Joe also.
It I would have been able to by my 1968 TR4A when it was new, I would have 
been modifying it the whole time I had the thing right up to when I went 
into the service.. But then I grew up in California in the '50's and 60's so 
modifying cars was expected.
As far as value, I don't think anybody who owns a Triumph is even remotely 
considering selling it unless there is some unfortunate circumstance that is 
forcing them. So, what it's worth hopefully is no more important that what 
it would cost to replace it.
One other point is that if you have ever watch one of these televised auto 
auctions, the value of a car completely depends not on what the owner thinks 
it's worth but what the buyer thinks it's worth..
Now, let's get back to enjoying our cars!!
Dave Connitt
1968 "slightly modified" TR4A.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 17:21:03 2014
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From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
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Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to get
home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - and
those seats were h**l !!!!!
I've no wish to ever ride in an MX5 again and they're ten for a penny here -
as everywhere else for that matter. Most them seem to be driven by women "of
a certain age" who are in bottom lip biting mode at 60mph and terrified
their blonde highlights and false fingernails will vanish in the slipstream.
Gimme a sidescreen TR with the Michelin X tyre technology of fifty years
back and an overdrive and I'll be as close to heaven as one can get this
side of mortality. Same goes for a Mk 1 GT6, Healey 100/6 or late model 3000
for a narrow English road, a slick surface and a few unexpected surprises
thrown in for good measure.

Jonmac


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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 18:28:22 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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I'm late to this party................... for the first 10 years of 
ownership I kept my car completely stock..... stock and somewhat 
reliable....but I got tired of constantly chasing backfires, misses, 
stumbles, hesitations, carb tweaking, bad rotors, a marginal wire harness 
etc etc. Some guys love spending hours tweaking, fixing and chasing those 
types of problems and their trunks are fully stocked with tools and spare 
parts. God bless them and their perseverance. So modification #1 was a 
modern alternator and a AAW wire harness that has eliminated any and all 
electrical problems for the past 10 years.... Following that was converting 
it to Throttle Body Injection..... yup fuel injected the way it should have 
been done..... starts instantly at any temperature, instant throttle 
response, no misses, backfires etc and gets great fuel mileage.... I set the 
timing 8 years ago and it's never needed to be reset..... then a Toyota 5 
speed and a Nissan Q45 differential along with CVJs..... and the list goes 
on and on.... In my mind I've lost none of the TR6 driving pleasure but have 
made it 100% more reliable. These guys seem to agree with me 
http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2009/02/01/hmn_feature1.html  Any other 
TR6s ever been the cover story for Hemmings? And don't knock the Miata seats 
with a headrest that actually protects your head! BL should have stayed with 
the safer early seats.

If I ever sell the car I bet it does better than any other '75 in similar 
condition....... In fact there was a thread on the List a number of years 
back where value/desirability was ranked #1- 4 Speed with OD, #2 - 5 speed 
and #3 - 4 speed.

I may not agree with what some people do to their cars but it's their car, 
it makes them happy and it keeps the car on the road. Let's not be quick to 
criticize and judge.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 20:24:12 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?John_Macartney?= <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>,
 =?utf-8?Q?Triumph_List?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 02:11:38 +0000
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We bought a Miater last spring.  Ibll be honest, at first I was like eh, this is not my favorite car.  After driving it for a while, its my DD in the summer, and getting a feel for what it actually had in store for me I fell in love with it. It doesn't have the power of my TR6 or TR8 but the darn thing handles like it on rails. Air is cold and cruise works great. I can put the top up  or down manually  while sitting in the drivers seat in about 30 seconds and it does not leak. I have a 35 minute drive through the country each way to work and I have a blast in the cures. I don't think tires are going to last me long in this car.  


Marty






Sent from Windows Mail





From: John Macartney
Sent: bMondayb, bJulyb b21b, b2014 b7b:b21b bPM
To: Triumph List





Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to get
home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - and
those seats were h**l !!!!!
I've no wish to ever ride in an MX5 again and they're ten for a penny here -
as everywhere else for that matter. Most them seem to be driven by women "of
a certain age" who are in bottom lip biting mode at 60mph and terrified
their blonde highlights and false fingernails will vanish in the slipstream.
Gimme a sidescreen TR with the Michelin X tyre technology of fifty years
back and an overdrive and I'll be as close to heaven as one can get this
side of mortality. Same goes for a Mk 1 GT6, Healey 100/6 or late model 3000
for a narrow English road, a slick surface and a few unexpected surprises
thrown in for good measure.

Jonmac


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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 21:34:41 2014
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 22:34:43 -0500
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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I keep going through rears because I slide my <dreaded jap roadster> 
sideways through every corner I can manage it, normally laughing out 
loud.  Kind of like the way I drive my Tr-4 race car, come to think 
of it - they don't last long there either.  You're right, though - 
the seats are not the most comfortable thing in the world.  On the 
plus side it DOES leak a bit and the top doesn't seal very well in 
the rain.  And if you don't run it to redline (or past) at every 
opportunity it feels kind of sedate.  BTW the rev limiter kicks in 
500 rpm past redline.  :)

I love my Triumph, but I love other cars too.

Tony

At 09:11 PM 7/21/2014, marty wrote:
>We bought a Miater last spring.  Ibll be honest, at first I was like 
>eh, this is not my favorite car.  After driving it for a while, its 
>my DD in the summer, and getting a feel for what it actually had in 
>store for me I fell in love with it. It doesn't have the power of my 
>TR6 or TR8 but the darn thing handles like it on rails. Air is cold 
>and cruise works great. I can put the top up  or down 
>manually  while sitting in the drivers seat in about 30 seconds and 
>it does not leak. I have a 35 minute drive through the country each 
>way to work and I have a blast in the cures. I don't think tires are 
>going to last me long in this car.
>
>
>Marty
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Sent from Windows Mail
>
>
>
>
>
>From: John Macartney
>Sent: bMondayb, bJulybb21b, b2014 b7b:b21bbPM
>To: Triumph List
>
>
>
>
>
>Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
>Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to get
>home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
>twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - and
>those seats were h**l !!!!!
>I've no wish to ever ride in an MX5 again and they're ten for a penny here -
>as everywhere else for that matter. Most them seem to be driven by women "of
>a certain age" who are in bottom lip biting mode at 60mph and terrified
>their blonde highlights and false fingernails will vanish in the slipstream.
>Gimme a sidescreen TR with the Michelin X tyre technology of fifty years
>back and an overdrive and I'll be as close to heaven as one can get this
>side of mortality. Same goes for a Mk 1 GT6, Healey 100/6 or late model 3000
>for a narrow English road, a slick surface and a few unexpected surprises
>thrown in for good measure.
>
>Jonmac
>
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 22:10:27 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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I'm sorry, I didn't mean to start an argument regarding what an owners
thinks is better, original or modified. Rather, I got ticked off that some
people only think that one way (truest) is the right way, and I spouted out.
Let me explain.

When I bought my '67 TR4A in 1970 my parents pleaded with me not to buy a
British car. They were born and raised in Scotland (as was I) and it was
common knowledge that anything BMC was built cheaply and needed a "lot of"
attention. They were right. Triumph was a poor man's Jaguar, but I wanted
one. 

First, the tranny broke. Syncho's failed and tore up 1st and 2nd. Then the
door mirror fell off. Then the leather seats dried out and cracked leaving
gaping holes The cardboard glove box fell apart. The windshield wipers were
slow. Hood release broke. Electrics were intermittent or didn't work.
Battery always ran dead. Starter was slooooow. Rear window in the top
yellowed in less than a year. Rattles everywhere. Top leaked. Window
regulator broke. The rear end got noisy then spewed all over the road. Some
may think all of this is as "charm", I don't. 

I hear stories about having to carry all these spare parts when taking a
trip. Are you kidding me? I carry a set of points/condensor in case the
Pertronix fails, and that's it. With the upgrades, the car doesn't break any
more and I have room for my golf clubs!

Again, I'm sorry as all of the above is my opinion of owning a daily driver
for the last 44 years.

Johnnie









 


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From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:22:05 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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> On Jul 21, 2014, at 7:21 PM, "John Macartney" <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
wrote:
>
> Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
> Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to
get
> home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
> twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - and
> those seats were h**l !!!!!



John, your comments strike a certain note for me: I can't help but take note
of the fact that the only reason Miata seats are so easily obtained is that
Miata owners can't stand them and can't wait to get rid of them.

Cheers

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 10:13:33 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 11:13:18 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>, TRiumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 9:22 AM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:


> John, your comments strike a certain note for me: I can't help but take
> note
> of the fact that the only reason Miata seats are so easily obtained is that
> Miata owners can't stand them and can't wait to get rid of them.
>

Actually, as someone who has had them in my TR6 since 2005, I find them
extremely comfortable. I have driven my TR6 over 700 miles in one day
numerous times over the years and have felt great at the end of the drive.
Some people acquire Miata seats for their cars as a matter of economics. A
pair of Miata seats typically costs less than replacement foam kits alone
for the stock seats.

Why are so many Miata seats available? It's called Spec Miata. One of the
most popular classes in SCCA history, Spec Miata is so popular that on any
given weekend, there are probably more Miatas being raced than any other
single model. Spec Miata prep rules allow for the removal of the stock
seats, so that a racing seat may be installed.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (original owner, no Miata, just the seats)
Highland Park, Il

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Ah Ha! Elementary my dear Watson.
I saw a Spec Miata race at Watkins Glen a few years back. It was some  
of the best racing that I've seen. The field was as big as NASCAR and  
they didn't have "the big one" (wreck) or the little one. Great stuff.

Allen Hess

On Jul 22, 2014, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> Actually, as someone who has had them in my TR6 since 2005, I find  
> them
> extremely comfortable. I have driven my TR6 over 700 miles in one day
> numerous times over the years and have felt great at the end of the  
> drive.
> Some people acquire Miata seats for their cars as a matter of  
> economics. A
> pair of Miata seats typically costs less than replacement foam kits  
> alone
> for the stock seats.
>
> Why are so many Miata seats available? It's called Spec Miata. One  
> of the
> most popular classes in SCCA history, Spec Miata is so popular that  
> on any
> given weekend, there are probably more Miatas being raced than any  
> other
> single model. Spec Miata prep rules allow for the removal of the stock
> seats, so that a racing seat may be installed.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U (original owner, no Miata, just the seats)
> Highland Park, Il

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Jack McGahey wrote
John, your comments strike a certain note for me: I can't help but take note
of the fact that the only reason Miata seats are so easily obtained is that
Miata owners can't stand them and can't wait to get rid of them.

Very possibly, Jack. IMHO, if I found an MX5/Miata in my unintended and
accidental ownership, I wouldn't rid myself of just the seats. The car may
suit millions of others but in my book it's just a 'Bimbo's Barge' and I
hope I'm never found dead in one:)

John



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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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This "modernization" debate has raged (not really literally I'm sure, because we all love why we're here) many times in the dozen or more years I've been on the List.  

The way I feel about it is, I refuse to belt my pants above my belly button.  I refused once to tell a girlfriend to put her bra and blouse back on when we were driving back from a swimming hole with the top down.  That was partly because she didn't wear a bra.  I refused to get married (uhm...to someone else) in one of those pastel tuxedos with the ruffled shirts and plastic shoes.  And I refused to be subdued when my daughter complained about the unsightliness when I trailered home a '59 TR3A with rusted out floors and 3 inches of racoon dung in the engine bay because it had been sitting in a shed behind someone's house for 27 years.  It cost me $500 to buy it and endless patience and love since.  Trust me.  It was not a steal.

Today at the hardware store, I returned to my car (a daily driver now) where a man parked next to me gave me a broad smile and a thumbs up.  I grinned back, stuck in the key, and punched the start button.  The little beast banged to life and roared on the first cough.  The man above me in the SUV stared and yelled, "Wow!"

I didn't tell him that it was because I'd installed an electric fuel pump and a Pertronix electronic ignition. 

But like all of us, I'm conflicted.  Most of these cars have outlived their first owners.  That's how I got mine.  So I guess the answer for me is this:  If I want it bad enough, I'll buy the heavily modified car and spend time to replace the mods if that's my choice.  After all, it took three years groveling in the dirt in my garageless driveway outside to completely strip my antique "find" down to the frame and replace and restore everything from the ground up.  A modded-out car has been shown more love than I started with...so could only be easier.

It's all good, Mates.  

And Miatas?  They're the next generations MGB's.  The BMW Z series is their Jaguar.  I'm not sure what the next Triumph is.  

Comfort is for pussy cats anyway.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 16:24:49 -0700
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> I grinned back, stuck in the key, and 
> punched the start button.  The little beast banged to life 
> and roared on the first cough.  The man above me in the SUV 
> stared and yelled, "Wow!"
> 
> I didn't tell him that it was because I'd installed an 
> electric fuel pump and a Pertronix electronic ignition. 

Oddly enough, my 56 TR3 starts first turn every morning, with points and original fuel pump.  If it doesn't fire right off, I know
there is something wrong.

> But like all of us, I'm conflicted. 

Me too.  But the original question was about value.  For a "driver", the mods don't make all that much difference IMO.  But a car
that has been correctly restored to original is always going to be worth more than a mongrel, no matter how nice the mongrel is.
Geo posted a link the other day to Hagerty's valuation tool; and it showed roughly a 4:1 difference in value between a "driver",
which "may have some modifications", and a 98 point concours winner.

Randall

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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
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I installed 1997 miata seats last year. Up to then I had my original leather
1966 TR4A seats. The drivers side developed a tiny full thickness tear and was
going to get worse fast.  Also those seats gave me no upper back support.  The
top of the seat ends below my shoulder blades. Not at all comfortable for more
than 45 minutes

The miata seats are quite firm, but fit me well. I really appreciate the upper
back support!

The modification is easily reversed on about 1 hr or less.

I will be installing the Goodparts CV axles, also totally reversible, but a
nice functional upgrade

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 22, 2014, at 10:21 AM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:22:05 -0400
> From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
> To: John Macartney <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
> Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
> Message-ID: <8EBF640D-CA61-4B74-8F73-AF6873E34691@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>> On Jul 21, 2014, at 7:21 PM, "John Macartney"
<john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
> wrote:
>>
>> Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
>> Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to
> get
>> home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
>> twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - and
>> those seats were h**l !!!!!
>
>
>
> John, your comments strike a certain note for me: I can't help but take
note
> of the fact that the only reason Miata seats are so easily obtained is that
> Miata owners can't stand them and can't wait to get rid of them.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> ------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 18:45:37 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1562382705.599230.1405803216474.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Is it just me?

When I do a search for Facet, I get 274 hits, but when I click on a link 
that says "*Re: [TR] *Facet* Electric Fuel Pump 
<http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2009-05/msg00595.html>* (score: 39)" 
the page that it takes me to is an email with the subject "Re: [TR] 
Bleeding Problems"

Roger
> Well, sort of.  The archives ( link below for the real time folks ) 
> are there and working.
> The current problem is that the data has not been updated for many 
> months.  I'm working on
> it at the moment, hope to make some good progress this evening.
>
> A lot of folks rely on the archives, I feel badly about them not 
> working properly.
>
> mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 17:57:11 2014
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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2055.1406038911.5508.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <483D8865-3C5E-4CB9-8A2C-852A8EFF44A7@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 19:57:26 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Good point Tony........ the majority of mods/upgrades are totally 
reversible. Everything I've done to my car could be reversed in a few days 
as I've saved the tranny, diff, axles, seats etc. All the old stock parts 
are stored in the basement and/or shed. ....... but spend a week driving my 
car and you wouldn't reverse anything. Pop the hood and it looks like a TR6, 
rides like a TR6, sounds like a TR6 and handles like one too...

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Anthony Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 7:29 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198

I installed 1997 miata seats last year. Up to then I had my original leather
1966 TR4A seats. The drivers side developed a tiny full thickness tear and 
was
going to get worse fast.  Also those seats gave me no upper back support. 
The
top of the seat ends below my shoulder blades. Not at all comfortable for 
more
than 45 minutes

The miata seats are quite firm, but fit me well. I really appreciate the 
upper
back support!

The modification is easily reversed on about 1 hr or less.

I will be installing the Goodparts CV axles, also totally reversible, but a
nice functional upgrade

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 22, 2014, at 10:21 AM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 10:22:05 -0400
> From: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>
> To: John Macartney <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
> Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
> Message-ID: <8EBF640D-CA61-4B74-8F73-AF6873E34691@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>> On Jul 21, 2014, at 7:21 PM, "John Macartney"
<john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
> wrote:
>>
>> Are Miata seats supposed to be comfortable? I spent last Saturday as a
>> Navigator on a club run for MX5's (the Miata for Europe) and was glad to
> get
>> home. What an utterly boring car. No rattles, no clunks, no unexpected
>> twitches from the back end and all too quiet for me in every respect - 
>> and
>> those seats were h**l !!!!!
>
>
>
> John, your comments strike a certain note for me: I can't help but take
note
> of the fact that the only reason Miata seats are so easily obtained is 
> that
> Miata owners can't stand them and can't wait to get rid of them.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> ------------------------------

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 <53CB0DB8.2000707@bradakis.com> <53CEF7A1.5000200@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 17:00:46 -0700
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

or a mr gasket micro electric fuel pump #42S
Autobest 42S Universal Electronic
Fuel Pump

  
             
Autobest 42S Universal Electronic Fuel Pump
Amazon.com: Autobest 42S Universal Electronic Fuel Pump: Automotive  
View on
www.amazon.com Preview by Yahoo  
  

Frank



On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 4:45
PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net> wrote:
 


Is it just me?

When I do a
search for Facet, I get 274 hits, but when I click on a link 
that says "*Re:
[TR] *Facet* Electric Fuel Pump
<http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2009-05/msg00595.html>* (score: 39)" 
the
page that it takes me to is an email with the subject "Re: [TR] 
Bleeding
Problems"

Roger

> Well, sort of.  The archives ( link below for the real
time folks ) 
> are there and working.
> The current problem is that the data
has not been updated for many 
> months.  I'm working on
> it at the moment,
hope to make some good progress this evening.
>
> A lot of folks rely on the
archives, I feel badly about them not 
> working properly.
>
> mjb.

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 18:06:42 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 17:06:35 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+mBwg5x/wHwVaTTDGhTRE+xrFf8AAAq1fA
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> When I do a search for Facet, I get 274 hits, but when I 
> click on a link 
> that says "*Re: [TR] *Facet* Electric Fuel Pump 
> <http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2009-05/msg00595.html>* 
> (score: 39)" 
> the page that it takes me to is an email with the subject "Re: [TR] 
> Bleeding Problems"

Does seem to be a problem there, I get the same thing.  This looks like the correct link:
http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2009-05/msg00569.html

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 20:11:44 -0400
References: <B677393D-9B47-442F-BF07-A535D3D3BAE0@verizon.net>
To: TRiumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
> Date: July 22, 2014 1:03:31 PM EDT
> To: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
> Cc: Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com>, TRiumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 198
>
>   It goes without saying, I love my Triumph. That being said, I am
> the first one that will change something to make it better. I have had my
> 69 TR6 since the early 80's and it still idles at 800 RPM smooth as silk
> with "SU carbs". The engine has not been apart since I have owned it.
> The clutch shifts great with it's CoAxil clutch release and takes 2 inches
> of movement. No slamming it to the floor and hope it disengages. The
> stock tranny with OD works great. I have replaced the synchro rings
> twice. Next time it is getting a Toyota 5 speed. The Nisson diff does
> not whine, clunk or leak. No twich when shifting in a turn with the
> 240Z half shafts. The tube shocks work smooth with extra bracing.
> This car doesn't leak with the hard top that never comes off. Gets hot
> I turn on the AC i put in with a fan that moves some air. Also heats
> from the same unit. The stock 69 seats made my back hurt in 30 minutes.
> I ride all day in the Miata seats with the tunes playing thru the headrest.
> Relaxe on the Interstate and use the cruize control so your right foot
> doesn't get a cramp. The tinted windows also gives the old eyes a
> rest. Lots of insulation in the floor and roof makes it quiet also.
>
> Yes I love my Triumph. Still looks like one, sounds like one, and smells
> like one. A real pleasure to drive.
>
> Dean T.
> VTR Member #599
>
>
>
> On Jul 22, 2014, at 12:13 PM, Irv Korey wrote:
>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Actually, as someone who has had them in my TR6 since 2005, I find them
>> extremely comfortable. I have driven my TR6 over 700 miles in one day
>> numerous times over the years and have felt great at the end of the drive.
>> Some people acquire Miata seats for their cars as a matter of economics. A
>> pair of Miata seats typically costs less than replacement foam kits alone
>> for the stock seats.
>>
>>
>>
>> Irv Korey
>> 74 TR6 CF22767U (original owner, no Miata, just the seats)
>> Highland Park, Il
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 18:25:29 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] The Debate
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, ever since these lists started out back in 198? the topic of what to do with
the car has come up. The same discussion occurs regardless of the marque. Keep it stock
or do as I wish?

The discussion won't end, because there is no one correct answer. We are people, not robots.
Our vehicles are going to show our personality one way or another.  It has always been this
way, and will most likely continue for the foreseeable future.

And the Team.Net lists will continue on, giving folks a chance to speak their piece about how
they feel about it.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Very possibly, Jack. IMHO, if I found an MX5/Miata in my unintended and
accidental ownership, I wouldn't rid myself of just the seats. The car may
suit millions of others but in my book it's just a 'Bimbo's Barge' and I
hope I'm never found dead in one:)




Don't beat around the bush, John, just tell us how you really feel about the
MX5/Miata!


Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 20:49:37 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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On 7/22/14, 5:25 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Yep, ever since these lists started out back in 198? 

1987.  I got my TR3 in '86 and was asking questions on rec.auto when I 
got an email (From Dale at Apollo Computer if I recall) saying he was 
starting a british car email list and ask if I wanted to join. Dale 
lived in the North East and had an MGB that lived in a narrow dirt floor 
garage.  If memory serves he gave up in the MG when he & his wife got 
round enough that they could no longer easily get into or out of the 
MG.  I guess that may be when you got the list. In very early 1990 the 
list was split into the british car list and the Land Rover list.  After 
that all the other marque lists were created.

I still miss the old british car list.


> The discussion won't end, because there is no one correct answer.
My answer was to try and make my TR3  into a period correct weekday 
commute car & weekend air port runway racer.  There is nothing on the 
car that you could not buy in the early 1960's.  Well one thing.  Super 
bright LED cluster tail and brake lights.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 01:52:23 2014
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] The Debate
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TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 7/22/14, 5:25 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>> Yep, ever since these lists started out back in 198?
>
> 1987.  I got my TR3 in '86 and was asking questions on rec.auto when I got an email (From Dale at Apollo Computer if I recall) saying he was starting a british car email list and ask if I wanted to join. Dale lived in the North East and had an MGB that lived in a narrow dirt floor garage.  If memory serves he gave up in the MG when he & his wife got round enough that they could no longer easily get into or out of the MG.  I guess that may be when you got the list. In very early 1990 the list was split into the british car list and the Land Rover list.  After that all the other marque lists were created.
>
> I still miss the old british car list.

Had I known what would blossom from those early days I would have kept better records to
document the history. Yes, Dale Cook, then Jim the bluegrass guy [Southern Rail] and on
though the years. What a long, strange trip it has been.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 12:18:41 2014
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 11:16:29 -0700
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
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Good point Tony........ the majority of mods/upgrades are totally 
reversible.
Everything I've done to my car could be reversed in a few days 
as I've saved
the tranny, diff, axles, seats etc. All the old stock parts 
are stored in the
basement and/or shed. ....... but spend a week driving my 
car and you
wouldn't reverse anything. Pop the hood and it looks like a TR6, 
rides like a
TR6, sounds like a TR6 and handles like one too...

Bob

----
Which I found
The TRIUMPH the perfect mod car without lowering the value.Just for that
reason! 
Never throw out a GOOD used part, because it may be worth $1.000 in
selling the car for what you wanted than the highest price being offered.

So
now you can use the 5 spd & save the OD (It'll only increase in value to the
org. wanting person).

I played with the breathing system, fuel system, tanny
& rear susoention, but was still able to sell it as stock to another country. 
 
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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I still miss Scott Fisher and Ray Gibbons.  May he rest in peace.  Thanks,
Mark!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 13:42:26 2014
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George Haynes wrote:
> I still miss Scott Fisher and Ray Gibbons.  May he rest in peace.  Thanks,
> Mark!

You are welcome. Scott Fisher is one of my Facebook friends, so I hear from him on a regular basis.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 21:01:23 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] The List
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I see Scott on Flickr.com now and again.  Met him in person in 2009 in
Oregon.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 2:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> George Haynes wrote:
>
>> I still miss Scott Fisher and Ray Gibbons.  May he rest in peace.  Thanks,
>> Mark!
>>
>
> You are welcome. Scott Fisher is one of my Facebook friends, so I hear
> from him on a regular basis.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 18:40:15 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+nkDsqCx185R28QXa14SkQTUksdg==
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
pan and prime this thing??

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

69 Land Rover Series IIa

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 16:58:50 2014
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 15:59:04 -0700
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

take the spark plugs out and crank the motor till you see pressure register on
your oil pressure gage.

Frank



On Thursday, July 24, 2014 3:40 PM, James
Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
 


I read that you are supposed to
prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
substance.  I didn't prime the new
pump and it is installed with oil pan
buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by
Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
pan and prime this thing??

Thanks in
advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

69 Land Rover Series
IIa

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 17:07:34 2014
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 16:07:34 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hopefully not.

I've never resorted to packing the pump -- though I do spin the engine with
the plugs out and watch for oil pressure to build up.

Geo


On Thu, Jul 24, 2014 at 3:40 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 17:17:19 2014
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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:14:43 -0400
References: <02bf01cfa790$3d794280$b86bc780$@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim, you can spin the pump

Fat-thumbed from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2014, at 6:40 PM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall@gmail.com

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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:20:48 -0400
References: <02bf01cfa790$3d794280$b86bc780$@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim, you can spin the pump CCW using a distributor gear drive shaft with the
key removed.  Kinda diddly process, since aligning the diet gear afterwards
can be fiddly.  I did a YouTube video years ago, which is out there somewhere.
Spinning the engine without the plugs works too, but it'll take a while to see
pressure.

Contact me offline if you want more info.

Jim

Fat-thumbed from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2014, at 6:40 PM, "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 17:35:37 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy75@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 16:35:52 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+nkDsqCx185R28QXa14SkQTUksdgAB0zgg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with 
> Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed 
> with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need 
> to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??

Unlike most other engines, the TR2-4 motor actually submerges the pump in the oil.  Gravity will prime the pump.

It wouldn't hurt to spin the engine a few revolutions with the spark plugs out, to fill the oil galleries & filter as well; but I
certainly would not take it apart to pack the pump.

Besides, having all that Vaseline get pushed into the filter may not be the best thing anyway.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 19:06:43 -0600
References: <02bf01cfa790$3d794280$b86bc780$@gmail.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

Take one of those big (usually yellow of some wort) cheap screw drivers that
you won at a club raffle and bust the plastic off the shank. Use a big one
that matches the gear drive. Spin it upyou might feel the pull once it
primes. And get the distributor back on ASAP. It helps to practice that a few
times before the pressure is onpun intended. Then start it without the choke
on until the oil pressure comes up on the gage. Then choke to start.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Jul 24, 2014, at 4:40 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:

> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 19:25:42 2014
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: "'Bud R'" <levilevi@comcast.net>
References: <02bf01cfa790$3d794280$b86bc780$@gmail.com>
 <C0E3D904-DCD9-4B89-A206-751A29D16C3E@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 21:25:37 -0400
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks everyone for their comments! I even heard from Steve Yott himself who
stated the pump is submerged in a TR4.  Spin without the plugs until you get
pressure and you are fine.  No need to pack it.  Thanks again.  You all are
great!

Jim Henningsen

Ocala, FL

 

 

From: Bud R [mailto:levilevi@comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 9:07 PM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming

 

Jim,

 

Take one of those big (usually yellow of some wort) cheap screw drivers that
you won at a club raffle and bust the plastic off the shank. Use a big one
that matches the gear drive. Spin it up.you might feel the pull once it
primes. And get the distributor back on ASAP. It helps to practice that a
few times before the pressure is on.pun intended. Then start it without the
choke on until the oil pressure comes up on the gage. Then choke to start.


Bud Rolofson

 

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

 

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)

71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3

69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)

93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 

77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Jul 24, 2014, at 4:40 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote:





I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
pan and prime this thing??

Thanks in advance,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4 x2

75 TR6

69 Land Rover Series IIa

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 07:32:23 2014
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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Subject: [TR] charging problem
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Hello,

63 TR4 + ground generator system.

After arriving home last night after a 40m ride. I turned off the engine 
to open the garage door.

Noticed the ignition light still red when key in off psn. Engine stopped ok.

Tried restarting, ok but red light stayed on.

Tried this a few times and finally the red light went off when I turned 
off the key.

Tried to start the car and after a minute or so, red light went off and 
ammeter showed a + charge. So I figured maybe the control box just 
goofed up.

Looked at it this AM and now there is no charge indicated by red light 
staying on and a slight discharge at the ammeter. I pulled off all 
connections to the control box and re-attached. Cleaned the contacts in 
the box.

Took off the generator and hooked + to ground and - to the large 
terminal and it spun like a motor using my camper 12 battery downstairs.

I put a new generator on the car and same problem. It started to charge 
for a second but then the red light came on again and small discharge. 
Tested the new generator and it does not spin. I got this on sale a 
number of years ago from TRF.

So, did I test the generator correctly? Cant remember its been so long.

Or is my control box toast.

I remember Randal posting something about a manual to test the control 
box but I lost it.

Thanks for any help.

Bob

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 08:59:01 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr@adelphia.net>, "'triumphs List'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 07:58:42 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+oDOmku/plVfXcQ6qMfx9ZWODJVwACW+aw
Subject: Re: [TR] charging problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> Noticed the ignition light still red when key in off psn. 
> Engine stopped ok.
> 
> Tried restarting, ok but red light stayed on.

That almost sounds like a wiring problem somewhere, like maybe a short near the red light.  But maybe it's just the cutout acting
crazy.

> Took off the generator and hooked + to ground and - to the large 
> terminal and it spun like a motor using my camper 12 battery 
> downstairs.

That's a popular test, but in my experience it doesn't mean a lot.  I've seen generators that would run like that, and still had
shorted windings, thrown solder, etc.

> I put a new generator on the car and same problem. It started 
> to charge 
> for a second but then the red light came on again and small 
> discharge. 

Well, hopefully that's just the control box acting up again.  I wouldn't think it could burn up in just "a second".

> Tested the new generator and it does not spin. I got this on sale a 
> number of years ago from TRF.

Might be worth trying again, with the two terminals connected together.  But IMO it would be better to go through the steps in the
booklet.

> Or is my control box toast.

Seems like the most likely explanation, to me.  The unfortunate part is that a failed control box may cause the generator to fail as
well.

> I remember Randal posting something about a manual to test 
> the control 
> box but I lost it.

http://tinyurl.com/l3ja4wh

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 09:08:19 2014
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53D25C73.7080400@adelphia.net>
 <A370F30A-B718-4BB3-87DE-BC65BF5EA558@flash.net>
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Subject: [TR] charging problem advice 63 TR4
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

A follow up question to previous query.

Maybe it is time to convert to the alternator setup as advertised by 
British Wiring (Triumph Rescue).

Has anyone here used this particular setup? If so, any problems, gotchas?

Is there a better setup?

I have heard on this list with problems with the alternator conversion 
with the device coming loose etc.

I am not looking for a $ savings, just something that is reliable.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 09:13:50 2014
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 08:14:05 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] charging problem
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My TR4 had an issue wherein the red light would sometimes stay on after the
ignition was switched off.  Restarting the engine and switching it off
again would clear it.

Then one day I couldn't get it to go out with a restart so I raised the
bonnet and took a look -- there was the generator operating as a motor and
trying mightedly to turn the engine.  Good thing I tend to keep the belt a
bit on the loose side.

In the end the problem was the control box which I cleaned & adjusted.

Geo


On Fri, Jul 25, 2014 at 6:32 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> 63 TR4 + ground generator system.
>
> After arriving home last night after a 40m ride. I turned off the engine
> to open the garage door.
>
> Noticed the ignition light still red when key in off psn. Engine stopped
> ok.
>
> Tried restarting, ok but red light stayed on.
>
> Tried this a few times and finally the red light went off when I turned
> off the key.
>
> Tried to start the car and after a minute or so, red light went off and
> ammeter showed a + charge. So I figured maybe the control box just goofed
> up.
>
> Looked at it this AM and now there is no charge indicated by red light
> staying on and a slight discharge at the ammeter. I pulled off all
> connections to the control box and re-attached. Cleaned the contacts in the
> box.
>
> Took off the generator and hooked + to ground and - to the large terminal
> and it spun like a motor using my camper 12 battery downstairs.
>
> I put a new generator on the car and same problem. It started to charge
> for a second but then the red light came on again and small discharge.
> Tested the new generator and it does not spin. I got this on sale a number
> of years ago from TRF.
>
> So, did I test the generator correctly? Cant remember its been so long.
>
> Or is my control box toast.
>
> I remember Randal posting something about a manual to test the control box
> but I lost it.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 09:19:11 2014
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 08:19:30 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] charging problem advice 63 TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Jul 25, 2014 at 8:05 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

I am not looking for a $ savings, just something that is reliable.


How many years has your charging system performed well?  In my experience
the original system can be quite reliable.

Obviously if there are other reasons at work that call for increased power
(lots of night driving, electric fans, powerful sound system, heated seats,
etc) then those are factors -- but I don't buy that reliability alone calls
for an alternator.

BTW - You would have to convert to negative ground.  Not a big deal to do
but worth noting.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Just curious.  I understand the need for lubrication on a fresh rebuild.  But isn't that the purpose of putting that viscous engine rebuild lube on moving parts during assembly?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 15:41:58 2014
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 14:42:16 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
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On Fri, Jul 25, 2014 at 2:28 PM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

Just curious.  I understand the need for lubrication on a fresh rebuild.
>  But isn't that the purpose of putting that viscous engine rebuild lube on
> moving parts during assembly?
>


I think assembly lube is used so the surfaces (e.g. bearings) do not run
dry for the time it takes for the oil pressure to build.  It also offers
some protection on parts that may sit awhile after assembly.  Once the
engine has run, the assembly lube has done its job.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 20:43:01 2014
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 21:43:01 -0500
To: terryrs@comcast.net,triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
 hester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <035801cfa7a7$577e8480$067b8d80$@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I takes a while for the system to "prime" and fill with oil upon 
first startup.  That's the purpose of running the oil pump with the 
dist shaft or turning it over without plugs until you see oil 
pressure before first startup.  The lube you put on those parts 
during assembly is the only lube until oil runs through the 
system.  A certain amount of oil stays in there afterward.

The assembly lube doesn't last long when no oil is running through the system.

Doesn't hurt to do that on an oil / filter change too - spin without 
plugs until the filter is full and you see oil pressure. Then start it up.

Tony

At 04:28 PM 7/25/2014, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>  Just curious.  I understand the need for lubrication on a fresh 
> rebuild.  But isn't that the purpose of putting that viscous engine 
> rebuild lube on moving parts during assembly?
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>New Hampshire
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 21:00:43 2014
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 03:00:34 +0000 (UTC)
From: MICHAELMARR5258 <michaelmarr5258@comcast.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Test new e-mail address
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 22:57:45 2014
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 22:57:21 -0600
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Subject: Re: [TR] Test new e-mail address
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You failed the test. No recess for you.

mjb.

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 07:30:02 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 08:30:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] charging problem advice 63 TR4
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It could be the generator or the control box, there are some instructions on 
testing the control box here:

http://herald-tips-tricks.wdfiles.com/local--files/start%3Astart0/Lucas%20Fault%20Diagnosis%20Service%20Manual.pdf

I have never had much luck trying to adjust them or even test them (I never 
get figures anywhere near what the book says you are supposed to get on your 
multi-meter, but I maybe I have only worked with them when they are already 
toast), but others have reported success,

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 11:31:12 -0400
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Pump Priming
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim, you have received some very good advice, as usual, from the list.  
Professional engine builders, and the rebuild industry, all recommend 
pre-pressurizing the system either by means of an external oil tank that 
can be pressurized with air and connected to an oil galley or by 
externally driving the oil pump. It is not recmmended to use the "spin 
it with the sarter" method. Even if oil pump is primed and moving parts 
are coated, the oil has to travel through a lot of passages to get to 
all the components that need to be oiled.  If the oil doesn't get to 
where it is needed, plugged passage, leaking seal  or ???, this is not 
good.  We build  a lot of engines in the course of a year and they are 
never done by building up pressure with the starter.   Good luck. Ted


On 7/24/2014 6:40 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
> I read that you are supposed to prime a new oil pump with Vaseline or other
> substance.  I didn't prime the new pump and it is installed with oil pan
> buttoned up.  It is an uprated pump by Steve Yott.  Do I need to pull the
> pan and prime this thing??
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 x2
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 69 Land Rover Series IIa
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 10:18:37 2014
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From: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
To: =?WINDOWS-1252?Q?=93triumphs_list=93?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 12:18:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] move coil from side of block
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Has anyone moved the ignition coil from the side of the block to the  
inner fender or considered doing it to reduce the heat and vibration?  
Any conclusions as to the result? I have a TR4 but it applies to most  
Triumphs. The current coil, gold Lucas Sport is 15 years old, not a  
lot of mileage on it. I had a coil go bad many years ago and the  
engine was missing badly before it quit completely. This coil isn't  
that bad but there's a roughness at speed (40-55 mph) that I can't  
pinpoint. Everything else has been tried, so a new coil is on the way.

Allen

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From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 13:34:35 -0400
References: <FCEC9612-5E86-47A0-B61A-89EC3A5D9502@mgcarclub.com>
To: Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com>
Cc: =?utf-8?Q?=E2=80=9Ctriumphs_list=E2=80=9C?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] move coil from side of block
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I did it on my TR4, good results.  Or perhaps I should say that I've not
experienced cool failure.  Bear in mind that (on the TR4) the mounting holes
in the block go thru to oiled area, must be sealed.

Jim

Fat-thumbed from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2014, at 12:18 PM, Allen Hess <allenhess@mgcarclub.com> wrote:
>
> Has anyone moved the ignition coil from the side of the block to the inner
fender or considered doing it to reduce the heat and vibration? Any
conclusions as to the result? I have a TR4 but it applies to most Triumphs.
The current coil, gold Lucas Sport is 15 years old, not a lot of mileage on
it. I had a coil go bad many years ago and the engine was missing badly before
it quit completely. This coil isn't that bad but there's a roughness at speed
(40-55 mph) that I can't pinpoint. Everything else has been tried, so a new
coil is on the way.
>
> Allen
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jhassall@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 15:17:17 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 17:17:04 -0400
 FILETIME=[486B24D0:01CFAAA9]
Subject: [TR] Brew Swap III
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Just a reminder, Brew Swap III is scheduled for Tuesday September 9th at the
VTR convention in Dobson NC.  We will have some tables set up, and provide
cups and bowls.  People wander in and deposit a few of their favorite  local
micro beers on these group beer tables.  We just wander around taking our cup
and sampling from all the different beers that everybody leaves on the
sampling tables.   If you want to bring a snack to share that would go good
with beer that would be fine also. That is what the bowls will be for.  If you
happen to be a home brewer we will also be having a home brew contest at a
separate table.  You would leave a couple of your home brews there and
everybody will be sampling them and voting on their favorite home brew.
Looking forward to seeing you there.

 Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 22:58:57 -0700
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] A-Type Overdrive Solenoid Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

     I was leaving a friend's house and the overdrive quit engaging when the
switch was thrown. This is a new rebuilt trans with about 500 miles on it. 
 
   Tonight I went through and checked all of the connections and oil level.
When the car is in 3rd gear with the key on and you throw the OD switch you
can see the solenoid move sort of weakly. It seems like it would give a good
"clunk". Any ideas?  I am thinking about taking the solenoid off of my spare
trans (which worked) and installing it on this one.
     Any suggestions?

   
 -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] A-Type Overdrive Solenoid Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>I was leaving a friend's house and the overdrive quit engaging when the
> switch was thrown. This is a new rebuilt trans with about 500 miles on it. 
 
FWIW, I bought an aftermarket solenoid for my A-Type and it didn't last long.  Took a used original solenoid off a spare OD unit and it's been running for years. Not sure the new ones are very reliable.  Others may testify differently.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <1406613537.76928.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 05:53:28 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] A-Type Overdrive Solenoid Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

"When the car is in 3rd gear with the key on and you throw the OD switch
you can see the solenoid move sort of weakly."

Would this be the behavior if the pull-in coil had failed and only the
holding coil was functioning?

I agree, try the old one.

Geo


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 10:58 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
wrote:

>      I was leaving a friend's house and the overdrive quit engaging when
> the
> switch was thrown. This is a new rebuilt trans with about 500 miles on it.
>
>    Tonight I went through and checked all of the connections and oil level.
> When the car is in 3rd gear with the key on and you throw the OD switch you
> can see the solenoid move sort of weakly. It seems like it would give a
> good
> "clunk". Any ideas?  I am thinking about taking the solenoid off of my
> spare
> trans (which worked) and installing it on this one.
>      Any suggestions?
>
>
>  -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Cc: 'Randall' <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I replaced the Grose float valves with needle valves.  I also put in new
fixed floats.  I used a color tune and set the carbs to the proper mixture
(I think) The Colortune goes yellow at high RPM but is blue at idle.  I
checked the mechanical fuel pump which seams to pump a good flow of gas.  It
ran great and I thought I was done, but after going up a hill for about a
mile it started to stutter.  I noticed if I pull out the choke it runs
better.  Any suggestions?  Could the gas be bad?  It's been in the car for
about 6 months.

-----Original Message-----
From: greg@gelhar.com [mailto:greg@gelhar.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2014 7:51 PM
To: Jeff
Cc: 'Randall'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes

A while back, I rebuilt the fuel pump on my TR6. I got to wondering why
with over a hundred horsepower powering the pump what kept it from
delivering sky high pressures. After I had it apart, I realized the
engine's cam only moves the pumps diaphragm to suck in fuel. It is the
spring on the diaphragm that pushes the fuel to the carbs. So no, I don't
think the pump can overpower the carb's float valves.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Thanks for the input.  I'm ordering the viton tip needle.  My fuel pump is
> the stock mechanical pump.  Can that put out to much pressure?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 6:40 PM
> To: 'Jeff'; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
>
>
>> When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2
>> blocks and it starts
>> missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are
>> really sooty.
>
> Others will disagree, I'm sure.  But my first step would be to replace the
> Grose Jets with the proper needle valves.  I don't fully
> understand why, but I've fixed several cars with similar symptoms that
> way.
>
> Or if you happen to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed,
> try turning it down a bit.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>



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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 15:59:05 2014
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From: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 21:56:12 +0000
 FILETIME=[EA3A4920:01CFAB77]
Subject: [TR] Lift the dot posts.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,

If someone would like to sell me two "Lift the Dot" posts I would appreciate
it.  I need two posts that have a half inch shank and a half inch machine
threaded mounting bolt.

Thanks very much.
Best regards,
Tom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 22:25:55 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 22:25:55 +0000
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] A-Type Overdrive Solenoid Question
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote: 
> "When the car is in 3rd gear with the key on and you throw the OD switch
> you can see the solenoid move sort of weakly."
> 
> Would this be the behavior if the pull-in coil had failed and only the
> holding coil was functioning?

That's certainly my first thought; well, actually the contacts inside the solenoid that supply current to the pull-in coil.  It might be that something else is limiting the current through the solenoid (like bad relay contacts maybe), but the solenoid contacts or coil would be my first suspicion.

One test is to hook up an ohmmeter from the relay output terminal to ground (with the ignition off).  The resistance should be less than 1 ohm.  If you get something closer to 10 ohms, then either the contacts aren't making contact, or the coil is burned out.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 16:48:25 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 15:48:43 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Lift the dot posts.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom --

If that 1/2" length includes the nut then that sounds like the usual LTD
post (though some old ones were smaller) supplied by 'the usuals' - I have
even found them at some Ace Hardware stores.

OTOH -- If you are looking for a longer than usual shank... I got a few
from this site:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_t/model-t-ford-side-curtain-fastener-lift-the-dot-nickel-double-stud-on-8-32-machine-thread.html

... though the length is more like 5/8" on those.

Geo


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 2:56 PM, tom white <tswhitez123@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hello List,
>
> If someone would like to sell me two "Lift the Dot" posts I would
> appreciate
> it.  I need two posts that have a half inch shank and a half inch machine
> threaded mounting bolt.
>
> Thanks very much.
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 20:39:46 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+rjrlsNzGxcOoOTCO451ep933sQw==
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Subject: [TR] Part Needed
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List:

I am determined to get to the VTR with a drivable TR6.  The new plan is put
my old tired stock 75K TR6 motor back in the car as my current engine is out
getting completely rebuilt and won't be ready L  .  The one part I can't
seem to find after moving twice is the late model stock intake.   Does
anyone have one that they would loan until I get back from VTR or available
to purchase for a reasonable price?  Please contact off list.  Thanks in
advance!

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 x2 both not running 

75 TR6 Not running YET!

69 Land Rover (Triumph off road parts search and find vehicle)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 19:51:17 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] Part Needed
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James Henningsen wrote:
> List:
>
>   The one part I can't
> seem to find after moving twice is the late model stock intake.

Thought I had one, it is the earlier version though, drat.

mjb.

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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 21:47:23 -0600
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To: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>
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Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] A-Type Overdrive Solenoid Question
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Try testing the OD relay in the engine bay per Dan Masters book. I had a
relay with burnt contacts that made it seem like it was a solenoid problem
(thought it was the pulling coil too). Test the relay thoroughly or even try a
replacement if possible first because its lots easier than accessing the
solenoid.

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)












On Jul 28, 2014, at 11:58 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a@att.net> wrote:

>     I was leaving a friend's house and the overdrive quit engaging when the
> switch was thrown. This is a new rebuilt trans with about 500 miles on it.
>
>   Tonight I went through and checked all of the connections and oil level.
> When the car is in 3rd gear with the key on and you throw the OD switch you
> can see the solenoid move sort of weakly. It seems like it would give a
good
> "clunk". Any ideas?  I am thinking about taking the solenoid off of my
spare
> trans (which worked) and installing it on this one.
>     Any suggestions?
>
>
> -Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi@comcast.net

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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 21:31:08 -0700
From: "triumph74tr6@yahoo.com" <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Part Needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I have one you can have......

Just send me your ship-to.

Chad

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 08:17:03 -0400
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Part request update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List:
You all are the best.  I have an intake from a member so thank you for all
your responses and see you at VTR!
Jim Henningsen

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 09:37:39 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 11:36:04 -0400
From: WILLIAM SMITH <smithw1@optonline.net>
To: tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] 4 Post Lift Advice Needed
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Hi fellow listers,

 

I am in the market for a four post car lift that has a significant amount of
clearance between the posts to make it easy to pull a wide vehicle in and
out under it.  I had originally picked out a Bend-Pak HD-9XW because (1) it
had 120" width between the columns, (2) the distance between the runways
could be adjusted, and (3) an acquaintance has one, I saw it and he is very
happy with it.  Then, between the time I first researched it and when I was
ready for it, Bend-Pak changed the design and reduced the width between the
columns to 100-1/4".

 

I am now considering a lift from American Custom Lifts ("ACL") (a small
company out of California) - a "Voyager" model ACV9W.  It has 110" between
the columns.  I understand from ACL that it was designed, and is
built/assembled by Challenger lifts in Kentucky (Challenger, itself seems to
sell only heavier duty commercial lifts).

 

My problem is that I have never seen an ACL lift, don't know anyone who has
one, nor have I heard anything about it except from ACL itself.  Does anyone
on the list have any experience with, or knowledge of, ACL or its lifts?

 

Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Bill Smith (New Jersey)    

 

William L. Smith

E-mail: smithw1@optonline.net

 

'72 TR6 (original owner)

'80 TR7 (second owner)

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 14:41:23 2014
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 16:40:09 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+s/vlHDQlAScUSR0++In4SXbrNHA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Someone near Raleigh, NC??
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List:  I am looking for a sympathetic TR-er who might be able to help me
out.

 

I just bought a TR4 all-synchro overdrive gearbox from a guy in Raleigh, NC.
It's a bit of a drive from Michigan, but I have to go down to Florida to
pick up some car parts from the UK in the fall, so I could swing by then.
Is there anyone out there who'd be prepared to pick the gearbox up and hold
it for me for a couple of months?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Delighted at finding a rear apron for an early TR3.

Thank you Marv Gruber !!!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 14:59:36 2014
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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?Andrew_Uprichard?= <auprichard@uprichard.net>,
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 20:57:53 +0000
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I will be in Dobson next month and can bring it back to Northern Ohio southwest of Cleveland if that is of any help.


Marty






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Andrew Uprichard
Sent: bThursdayb, bJulyb b31b, b2014 b4b:b41b bPM
To: Triumph List





List:  I am looking for a sympathetic TR-er who might be able to help me
out.

 

I just bought a TR4 all-synchro overdrive gearbox from a guy in Raleigh, NC.
It's a bit of a drive from Michigan, but I have to go down to Florida to
pick up some car parts from the UK in the fall, so I could swing by then.
Is there anyone out there who'd be prepared to pick the gearbox up and hold
it for me for a couple of months?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Delighted at finding a rear apron for an early TR3.

Thank you Marv Gruber !!!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 15:16:42 -0700
From: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4a   threaded chrome ring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Mark   Pete Groh here.  Give me your mailing address, will put in the mail to
you.

Kind regards

Pete Groh (KeyGuy)


 
Date: Mon, 30 Jun
2014 18:09:15
-0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To:
Triumphs
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject:
[TR] TR4A ignition switch bezel


I'm
working on a TR4A down
at Baileys ( CTC 613?? ) and I am getting tired of
fumbling
about
under the dash to get the ignition switch when I want to start
it. 
All it needs
to put the switch where it belongs is that little,
threaded
chrome ring that holds it
in place.  Anyone have a
spare?

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2014 18:51:25 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Pete Groh <pete_groh@yahoo.com>,  "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1404253002.75030.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4a   threaded chrome ring
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Status: RO

Pete Groh wrote:
> Mark   Pete Groh here.  Give me your mailing address, will put in the mail to you.

Thanks!!

Mark J Bradakis
739 Park Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84102

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: "=?utf-8?Q?triumphs@autox.team.net?=" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 16:58:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Making_a_Break_For_It?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ever be working on your Triumph, and drop something, like a nut, bolt, or washer?  Sometimes they fall  submissively, hit the ground, and just remain there.  Well thatbs a Chinese import.  Happy to stay in America.  Itbs the ones that hit the ground, and take off urgently, heading East.  Now thatbs British steel, trying to get back home to Coventry! 

Will Daehler

63 TR4 Powder Blue








Sent from Windows Mail

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <will.daehler@gmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53b43ac2.2294320a.1718.2a6b@mx.google.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 14:16:59 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac+WJUQ/+gyLUsTxTWyDsaeoMSbWWgABHN1Q
Subject: Re: [TR] Making a Break For It
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Very well put, as just the other day I searched for an irreplaceable spring
for 30 minutes before finally tracking it down. One of my handiest TR tools
the little flexible grabber with the LED light on the tip.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
'67 Morgan 4/4 Comp (next in line)
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"


-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
will.daehler@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2014 11:58 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Making a Break For It

Ever be working on your Triumph, and drop something, like a nut, bolt, or
washer?  Sometimes they fall  submissively, hit the ground, and just remain
there.  Well thatbs a Chinese import.  Happy to stay in America.  Itbs the
ones that hit the ground, and take off urgently, heading East.  Now thatbs
British steel, trying to get back home to Coventry!

Will Daehler

63 TR4 Powder Blue








Sent from Windows Mail

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 12:48:57 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <53b43ac2.2294320a.1718.2a6b@mx.google.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Making a Break For It
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

On 7/2/14, 9:58 AM, will.daehler@gmail.com wrote:
> Ever be working on your Triumph, and drop something, like a nut, bolt, or washer?  Sometimes they fall  submissively, hit the ground, and just remain there.  Well thatbs a Chinese import.  Happy to stay in America.  Itbs the ones that hit the ground, and take off urgently, heading East.  Now thatbs British steel, trying to get back home to Coventry!
>

I break down a card board box and lay it under the engine when I work on it.  Things are better at staying put when it hits cardboard and I can just pull the cardboard out to retrieve what I have dropped.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 16:20:44 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Making a Break For It
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

In all seriousness, I've sometimes been so vexed I've tried Mark Twain's
approach from The Adventures of Tom Sawyer .

"He well knew the futility of trying to contend against witches, so he gave
up discouraged. But it occurred to him that he might as well have the
marble he had just thrown away, and therefore he went and made a patient
search for it. But he could not find it. Now he went back to his
treasure-house and carefully placed himself just as he had been standing
when he tossed the marble away; then he took another marble from his pocket
and tossed it in the same way, saying:

'Brother, go find your brother!'

He watched where it stopped, and went there and looked. But it must have
fallen short or gone too far; so he tried twice more. The last repetition
was successful. The two marbles lay within a foot of each other."

And believe it or not, it will sometimes work.


On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:58 PM, <will.daehler@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ever be working on your Triumph, and drop something, like a nut, bolt, or
> washer?  Sometimes they fall  submissively, hit the ground, and just remain
> there.  Well thatb s a Chinese import.  Happy to stay in America.  Itb s
> the ones that hit the ground, and take off urgently, heading East.  Now
> thatb s British steel, trying to get back home to Coventry!
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4 Powder Blue
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
To: <will.daehler@gmail.com>
References: <53b43ac2.2294320a.1718.2a6b@mx.google.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Making a Break For It
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Status: RO

Dear Mr. Daehler

Your message had got a bit scrambled by the time it had crossed the Atlantic
to the UK and I couldn't quite work it out.

Anyway, to the errant spring that tried to run away from you. Firstly, I
hope you found it. Secondly, I do trust you aren't implying it was trying to
return to Coventry via China? Bless my soul, in the days when your car was
made, we had no 'truck' with the oriental gentlemen to whom you refer - or
the stuff they made!!!

Just to set the record straight, in the late 1950's, we even had some
gentlemen from firms called Toyota and Datsun paying visits to see how we
made cars in those very early days of computerised production control and
vehicle/component marshalling, so the right part reached the right car -
most of the time. On those visits, there was a lot of "Ah, so" at what they
saw - mirrored to a degree by a very similar response from a limited number
of production workers who had been in conflict with people of that same
nation some fifteen or so years earlier - in the jungles of Burma and the
Far east. I think I can be confident in saying we never used any component
sourced from such far flung destinations. Generically, it was all known as
'monkey metal' and treated with the contempt it deserved.

I remain, Sir, your obedient servant

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
will.daehler@gmail.com
Sent: 02 July 2014 17:58
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Making a Break For It

Ever be working on your Triumph, and drop something, like a nut, bolt, or
washer?  Sometimes they fall  submissively, hit the ground, and just remain
there.  Well thatbs a Chinese import.  Happy to stay in America.  Itbs the
ones that hit the ground, and take off urgently, heading East.  Now thatbs
British steel, trying to get back home to Coventry!

Will Daehler

63 TR4 Powder Blue








Sent from Windows Mail

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk


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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Yeah, that's what I always do, too.

Unfortunately, I never remember to do that until after the first one or two
items have made their break for freedom... which are nearly always the
smallest, hardest to find and most difficult to replace items being worked
upon.

Nice thing with my Land Rover, I don't need to move it or jack it up to crawl
underneath to look for the missing parts.  The TR4, with about 4.5 inches of
ground clearance at best, is another story entirely.


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
amfoto1@aol.com
www.triumphowners.com/640
www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1



-----Original Message-----

 I break down a card board box and lay it under the engine when I work on it.
Things are better at staying put when it hits cardboard and I can just pull
the  cardboard out to retrieve what I have dropped. TeriAnn

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Back when I was young and foolish I used to think that a nut or bolt or 
small metal part wouldn't or at least shouldn't travel in a radius any 
larger than the approximate distance that it fell.

Although I still don't entirely understand it, I have come to expect that a 
three foot fall can sometimes send an item skipping across the floor ten 
feet or more.

Greg

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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2014 19:25:50 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July 
grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best 
buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got 
into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional 
thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of 
the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone 
had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said 
"Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking 
lots who are fascinated by such a small car.

My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so 
it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the 
revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling 
pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home, 
still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini 
pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp 
the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the 
intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just 
comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so 
full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh

TeriAnn

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 22:38:58 -0400
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Yeah, TeriAnn, but I bet nobody came up to the Lambo driver in the parking
lot to talk about the Miura they used to have...




On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 10:25 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July
> grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best
> buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got
> into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional
> thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of
> the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone
> had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said
> "Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking
> lots who are fascinated by such a small car.
>
> My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so
> it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the
> revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling
> pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home,
> still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini
> pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp
> the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the
> intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just
> comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so
> full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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I bet his fingernails were squeaky clean.

mjb.

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 20:39:24 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+XKtQbXpIbKFUZQ6GMiw1KHMwzpwADolBQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Making a Break for It
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Status: RO

> Although I still don't entirely understand it, I have come to 
> expect that a 
> three foot fall can sometimes send an item skipping across 
> the floor ten feet or more.

Try pushing a car, then picking it up.  Might help illuminate.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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From: "Tom Note" <tom628@verizon.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2014 00:20:45 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

OTOH, a couple of yrs ago I had the TR6 on a hiway with a lot of traffic 
lites and was sort of casually dicing back and forth with a guy in a new 
Ferrari with our tops down.  We ended up at a lite together and he was quite 
friendly, compimenting me on the TR and answering a couple of Q's about his 
V8 . Not everybody is a jerk.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2014 10:25 PM
Subject: [TR] So there I was


>I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July
> grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best
> buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got
> into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional
> thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of
> the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone
> had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said
> "Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking
> lots who are fascinated by such a small car.
>
> My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so
> it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the
> revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling
> pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home,
> still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini
> pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp
> the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the
> intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just
> comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so
> full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628@verizon.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 07:07:03 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Penrite TR team at Le Mans Classic this weekend
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

For anyone interested in following the three TR cars (TR2, TR3S
tribute, TRS replica) at the Le Mans Classic this weekend, here's the
live update blog from the TR Register in the UK:

http://lemanstrs.blogspot.co.uk/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 07:54:40 -0500
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Fear not Miss TeriAnn, class trumps fast every time.

Bill
1962 TR3B

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 3, 2014, at 9:25 PM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:

I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July
grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best
buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got
into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional
thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of
the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone
had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said
"Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking
lots who are fascinated by such a small car.

My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so
it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the
revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling
pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home,
still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini
pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp
the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the
intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just
comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so
full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 09:31:19 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

Nice Story TerriAnn!
I think you should go for a long ride today. Chances are you might come 
across another Triumph owner.. Now that would be fun.
Dave Connitt 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2014 06:59:54 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
 <CF7463A7-1530-4633-9529-590F111580A8@flash.net>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

On 7/4/14, 5:54 AM, Wbeech wrote:
> Fear not Miss TeriAnn, class trumps fast every time.
But that V12 sounded soooo sweeet.  I've never cared much for 
Lamborghini styling but there is something about the throaty roar of an 
Italian V12 that resonates in my very soul.

My TR3 sings a very lovely song for a street 4 cylinder.  One that 
brings a smile to my lips whenever I fire the car up. But it sounds 
nothing like an Italian V12.  I guess I've spent too many years in the 
pits at the Monterey Historics and roaming around Monterey car week.

I'll recover.  Italian V12s don't often roam the streets of Flagstaff.  
Flagstaff is an American iron town.  The annual downtown car show limits 
entries to the first 500 and of those I have yet to see more than 5 
British entries and none of those pesky Italian V12 cars.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2014 07:07:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
 <76624EF466394F78A9187F667A52CF99@DaveLaptop>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

On 7/4/14, 6:31 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> Nice Story TerriAnn!
> I think you should go for a long ride today. Chances are you might 
> come across another Triumph owner.. Now that would be fun.
> Dave Connit
Thanks for the advice Dave but it looks a lot like rain for the back 
half of the 4th and every day for the upcoming week.  We need it badly.

My 1960 Land Rover blew a head gasket on the final leg of a recent 
camping trip and I am in the process of buttoning the engine back up.  
Any dry time will be spent under the bonnet. The truck is 4 inches too 
tall to fit into the garage.

There is only one other Triumph owner in town.  He has a TR3 & a TR6.  
There is a guy who owns some Morris Minors but I haven't seen him on the 
road for about 2 years.  It is truly a British car desert up here in the 
high country.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 08:59:28 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

TeriAnn -

you're always an inspiration and a great story teller.

it saddens me that you would let this guy end your story this way.

I would rather end it with:  as kewl as I thought that car was, I realized 
that with no trunk and no rear parcel area, it was a lousy grocery shopping 
car.

-----Original Message----- 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2014 9:25 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] So there I was

I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July
grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best
buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got
into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional
thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of
the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone
had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said
"Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking
lots who are fascinated by such a small car.

My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so
it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the
revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling
pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home,
still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini
pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp
the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the
intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just
comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so
full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh

TeriAnn 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2014 07:52:47 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
 <481157929D094042A5217E6FA6C69F0F@Ranteer.local>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

On 7/4/14, 6:59 AM, dave n wrote:
>
> it saddens me that you would let this guy end your story this way.
>
> I would rather end it with:  as kewl as I thought that car was, I 
> realized that with no trunk and no rear parcel area, it was a lousy 
> grocery shopping car.
I'm sorry but I'm readily seduced by the sound of a throaty Italian V12. 
On the other hand, I've never been fond of Lamborghini styling and had 
it been parked I would not give it a second glance.  I have no idea of 
how much space it has for groceries nor would I even care.

Since the Land Rover has been sick my TR has stepped in for all the 
chores. Her boot has been filled with plants from the nursery, 
groceries, 2 cu ft bags of top soil (two in the boot, three in the 
passenger side floor & seat + one on the rear seat), cylinder heads to 
and from the machine shop and valve covers to and from the powder 
coater.  But the one thing my TR can not do is take my Irish Wolfhound 
to and from the dog park and the TR doesn't appreciate being out in the 
rains so she will be of very limited use this upcoming week.

I've owned my 3 for 28 years now and have grown attached to it.  And yes 
a drive always cheers me up.

One thing I could add to the story is that when I got into traffic 
heading to the first grocery store (cherries on sale for 99 cents a 
pound) I exchanged waves with a person going the other direction driving 
a late 1930's or early 1940's custom street rod that had a paint job 
that could have been more expensive than my TR3.  A lot of the people in 
Flagstaff who drive the old classics feel a kinship no matter what the 
marque.

It is always nice when I have a parking lot chat with someone who owned 
a 3 decades ago.  They always have a life experience or two to share and 
always walk away with a smile on their lips as they mentally relive 
happy memories.  Its one of the nice things about time.  The good 
memories get better and the bad ones fade.

But if you keep the car those memories just keep on accumulating. They 
really are memory creation machines.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 08:53:33 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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>  But the one thing my TR can not do is take my Irish 
> Wolfhound 
> to and from the dog park 

That's too bad.  We had a Collie/Shepherd mix that just loved to ride in the back of the TR3A.  The occasional seat was just barely
big enough for her to lay down; but usually she would sit up with her head in the wind.  And although she would get in uninvited;
she never got out until told to.

One of the benefits of driving an unrestored car; I never worried about damage to the rear seat (which had cheap carpet instead of
upholstery).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <53B6BFBF.8020009@gmail.com> <46.81.28754.EFDC6B35@cdptpa-oedge03>
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My Australian Shepherd does the same - sits up with his head in the wind.
The other day my wife and I were stopped at lights and we heard some people
by the side of the road say "Oh, how cute!"  I was going to tell my wife
they were obviously referring to her and not the TR3 (which invariably
attracts the word "cute") when the pedestrians continued "what a lovely dog"
!

"Cute" is very much an American word which I adopted with my citizenship.  I
was once asked what the Irish or English equivalent was and I was stumped.
Any suggestions from across the water?

Andrew Uprichard
Down to one driver, 1962 TR3B
2 smallmouths undergoing restoration

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 11:54 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was

>  But the one thing my TR can not do is take my Irish Wolfhound to and 
> from the dog park

That's too bad.  We had a Collie/Shepherd mix that just loved to ride in the
back of the TR3A.  The occasional seat was just barely big enough for her to
lay down; but usually she would sit up with her head in the wind.  And
although she would get in uninvited; she never got out until told to.

One of the benefits of driving an unrestored car; I never worried about
damage to the rear seat (which had cheap carpet instead of upholstery).

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: Joe Burlein <floridatr6@cfl.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 20:27:22 -0400
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

Don't feel bad, just think about the $8k he gets to spend on the tune up. The
$10k he spends on a steering rack.  $300 for a thermostat.  Or the fact he
literally can't take his car out of second gear without risking a jail
sentence. Oh, plus the fact that when you are doing 60 you feel like you are
doing a 160. When is doing a 160 he feels like he is doing 60!

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 3, 2014, at 22:25, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I decided to get out today and take advantage of the fourth of July
> grocery sales.  I went through the sales papers. I looked for the best
> buys and planned a route that used the least amount of petrol.  I got
> into the TR3 and off I went shopping.  As usually I got the occasional
> thumbs up from other drives and people walking on the street.  At two of
> the store parking lots I got to hear the stories of the TR3 that someone
> had had as a young adult and some adventures they had. Several folk said
> "Nice car" & per usual the car attracted a number of kids in the parking
> lots who are fascinated by such a small car.
>
> My TR3 has a TR2 single muffler exhaust, four tube headers and a cam so
> it has a very noticeable sweet roar.  On the way home I was keeping the
> revs around 3500 RPM just listening to the sweet tone and I was feeling
> pretty full of myself.  I stopped at the last light on the way home,
> still with a self satisfied smile when a bright yellow Lamborghini
> pulled up alongside me. The driver did not glance my way but he did burp
> the V12 and when the light changed was long gone before I got out of the
> intersection.  Sometimes when you are feeling really good someone just
> comes along and takes the wind out of your sail. And I was feeling so
> full of myself and the TR mystique before I heard the V12 sing.  Sigh
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6@cfl.rr.com

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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 05:51:06 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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On 7/5/14, 5:16 AM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> It takes somebody special to appreciate a vintage car.
>
> It takes somebody even more special to keep it on the road when it's 55 years old.
>
Since my newest car is a 1960 I sometimes think it takes a special kind 
of idiot.  But once I find a car that suits me I never saw a reason to 
get rid of it and replace it with something that would suit me even less.

With both of my vehicles people keep telling me that they had one years 
ago and still regret selling it.  I decided that if I keep it I will 
never regret selling it.  Besides I think it is foolish to spend a lot 
of money on something that is worth less everyday.  Both my $1000 TR3 
and my $350 Land Rover still gets me where I want to go even after 
owning the TR3 for 28 years and the Land Rover for 36 years.  Of course 
I have had to put money into maintaining them but since I never plan to 
sell it is all just imaginary profit or loss anyway.  The important 
thing is the smile on my lips and the other idiots who own these cars 
that I have met and become friends with over the decades.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>, "'Triumph List'"
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Some years ago now when out in my 2500PI, I found myself being tailgated by
a 'yuppie' in a BMW. I don't know about North America, but in the UK most
BMW drivers can't stand being held up and usually think they own the road.
Much the same applies to those driving Audis. I digress.

Anyway, this individual came past me and then settled down to let me
tailgate him. As the road was straight and still with no sign of the 'Hun'
showing any signs of going faster and with no oncoming traffic, I selected
third gear, floored the accelerator to 5,500 and as the howling exhaust was
level with the BMW driver's ear, I flicked into overdrive which produced a
most pleasing snarl. I was in front again and without any stress or hassle.
This was just too much for the 'yuppie' (who was probably a sales rep
worrying about not meeting his sales target) and he just had to overtake me
again and at such a speed, he disappeared from view. Fine. No prob - and it
had been fun.

Three or so miles later, I saw him parked up in a 'pull off' and being
interviewed by a uniformed man in a high vis jacket holding a radar gun. The
police car was hidden in a gateway to a field. I tootled past at a
respectable (and legal speed) without further let or hindrance - but it
really made my day, especially as the BMW driver probably wasn't even born
the day my car left the line in Coventry in 1970. Twat!

Jonmac


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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 14:13:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A mid RPM miss update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

About a week ago I posted a message about my recently restored TR4A developing
a mid range misfire.
The symptoms were that the engine idles perfectly and runs strong and steady
as long as I keep the RPM's under about 2,500 RPM. I can run through the gears
and get the engine up to 4,000 RPM and it runs absolutely perfect. If I drive
for more than a few minutes over 2,500 RPM's it develops a misfire and there
is a distinct clicking sound from under the hood. If I push in the clutch and
let the engine idle, it goes away until I get the engine over 2,500 RPM. I
suppose if I never went above 40 MPH that would be fine.
>From what I have been told by a few people the problem has to do with the
bronze valve guides I had installed along with the hardened valve seats. They
think there isn't enough clearance between the valve and guide. I talked to
the guy who did the engine machining and he doesn't think it's a valve guide
issue. His thought is that if the problem was a sticking valve it would stay
stuck! Two other machinist's I talked to think at least one of the valve
guides is a bit too tight. One of them thinks that the clearance on at least
on valve guide is just slightly on the tight side. He suggested I put a bottle
of Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase to help lubricate the valve guides. I
tried that and I think it might have been a little worse if anything. One
other thing is that I had changed the oil  a week or so ago and the oil looked
great.
Here is what I have done so far..
First, I removed the rocker arm shaft thinking I may have a broken valve
spring but they all looked good. I also wasn't able to find any evidence of
excessive heat or galling of anything. I didn't see any unusual witness marks
or anything like that. There was plenty of oil sitting on the head and when I
moved one of the rocker arms I could see oil seeping out of the small oil hole
in it so there is plenty of oil up there. Speaking of oil, I am running Brad
Penn 20-50 weight oil.
Today I drove it to the local Cars and Coffee (not on the freeway) and it ran
fine to and from keeping the speed about 40 MPH. I met a friend there who owns
a TR-6 and is a pretty good aviation mechanic/pilot and he thought I should
check the timing so I did. The initial timing was set at 10 BTDC and total
advance all in is 20 degrees. I backed the initial timing to 5 degrees BTDC
but that didn't help.
I am just about resigned to the fact that I have to remove the head and get it
checked out. I found another machine shop who comes highly recommended and can
turn the head around in a week. While I have the head off, I am considering
getting some material milled off since I have a BPNW 270 degree camshaft. I
had .005" removed just to get it flat but am thinking that raising the
compression a bit will help the cam. Any suggestions from people with this cam
regarding milling?
Well, I have put it off enough.. I am off to the garage to start removing the
head.
Crap...
Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 16:10:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I had to run up and get a memory device for the new digital camera and decided
on Walmart as it was going to be the cheapest.
Anyway, I drove the TR4A one last time before I remove the cylinder head and
when I came out, there was a guy taking pictures of the car. We talked for
about 30 minutes about the car and his restoration projects. TeriAnn's
experience and mine and I am sure everyone on the list who is lucky enough to
be actually driving their rolling history all have at least one similar
experience.

I think the casual meeting of total strangers with a common interest are one
of the great suprises and pleasures of owning and driving an old British car.

Dave Connitt

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 13:29:54 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <E67BC06411CA43C7B5E1AE64AA402A2B@DaveLaptop>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On 7/5/14, 1:10 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> I think the casual meeting of total strangers with a common interest are one
> of the great suprises and pleasures of owning and driving an old British car.
>

I enter my TR3 in the local Flagstaff annual downtown car show each 
year.  It is one of less than five British cars that tend to enter.

I've found that kids love the car.  It is more their size.  And unlike 
most of the exhibitors I spend most of my day by my car letting children 
site behind the wheel while their parents take photographs of their 
child usually with one hand on the wheel and an elbow draped over the 
door.  Those kids just might fondly remember my TR3 when it comes time 
to buy a car.  A lot of parents who have no idea of what a Triumph is 
get educated along the way and a lot of adults get their picture taken 
with the car as well.

Bringing a TR out to a classic car show is a way to introduce people to 
the old British classics.

Besides it gives me an excuse to clean and polish it at least once a year.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 16:57:00 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 1:29 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
wrote:

And unlike most of the exhibitors I spend most of my day by my car letting
> children site behind the wheel while their parents take photographs of
> their child usually with one hand on the wheel and an elbow draped over the
> door...



If you haven't tried it, let me assure you that this is a great way to
enjoy your TR.  All kids get a turn at the wheel, sometimes I tell them the
horn is giving me trouble and could the test it?

I carry a load of Hot Wheels in the boot and every kid gets a car take with
them (most are British, some are TR6s).

It goes like this:    Kids in TRs <http://goo.gl/sze2sF>

I realize some of you have cars restored to a level that you couldn't feel
good about kids climbing all over it, but if you can stand it -- this is a
lot of fun for everyone, even better than collecting trophies.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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From: "Jeff" <piggerp@comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1404583202.1814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 18:23:03 -0600
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Subject: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I've been trying to get my TR4A on the road before winter sets in again.
I'm having a heck of a time getting my SU HS6 carburetors tuned.  I pulled
the floats and checked the fuel in the chamber.  They have Grose Jets in
them.  Both chambers have fuel about 1/2 way up the bowl.  I've done the
tuning on both carbs to where when you lift the piston the engine RPM seems
to rise and fall.  The engine runs great, I can rev it with no hesitation
and it seems very smooth.  I pulled the plugs and they were normal color.
When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 blocks and it starts
missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are really sooty.
What am I missing?  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jeff'" <piggerp@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 17:39:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+Ye0CluWYWr7z3SsyqAJzMG3zYtAAMhtggAAD4v5A=
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 
> blocks and it starts
> missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are 
> really sooty.

Others will disagree, I'm sure.  But my first step would be to replace the Grose Jets with the proper needle valves.  I don't fully
understand why, but I've fixed several cars with similar symptoms that way.

Or if you happen to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed, try turning it down a bit.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <mailman.15.1404583202.1814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BB01994F61FA410F9FAEBA7EDF0010EE@PorterOfficePC>
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 19:43:58 -0500
To: Jeff <piggerp@comcast.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sounds like the choke linkage is not returning all the way.  From under the
hood (bonnet) manually see that the linkage is fully returned to the off
positions, then take a spin.

Sometimes it is some simple.

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 5, 2014, at 7:23 PM, "Jeff" <piggerp@comcast.net> wrote:

I've been trying to get my TR4A on the road before winter sets in again.
I'm having a heck of a time getting my SU HS6 carburetors tuned.  I pulled
the floats and checked the fuel in the chamber.  They have Grose Jets in
them.  Both chambers have fuel about 1/2 way up the bowl.  I've done the
tuning on both carbs to where when you lift the piston the engine RPM seems
to rise and fall.  The engine runs great, I can rev it with no hesitation
and it seems very smooth.  I pulled the plugs and they were normal color.
When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 blocks and it starts
missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are really sooty.
What am I missing?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 19:07:00 -0700
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7@gmail.com>
To: triumph list list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Blown Gasket Story Ends Happily
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

All is well - cylinder pressure reading between 170 and 180 all all four.
I've learned to have all pugs out and the throttle open to get consistent
readings.

In the process, had the manifold surface trued up, and the new headers'
face as well, providing a nice tight match. New studs all around - ARP's
for the head - which required some reboring on the manifold face. To my
delight, the new header fit perfectly.  Took the opportunity of an almost
empty engine compartment to clean up and spray new black all around. Its a
black car so touching up is easy. Looks pretty good. Finally, substituted a
1 3/4 tail pipe for the old 1 1/2 incher back to the muffler. Re-set the
timing, adjusted the Webers and the new plugs are running clean.

So for now the engine is starting quickly, idling smoothly at 800, tires
are squeeking from stop, acceleration is s good as its ever been and I'm a
happy Traveler. Now to get the Stag on the road.....

Thanks again to everyone who  helped get this car running like it should.

John Howard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 20:53:19 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.15.1404583202.1814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BB01994F61FA410F9FAEBA7EDF0010EE@PorterOfficePC>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Grose jets tend to stick.  I had a pair on an MGBGT.  They didn't stay 
there very long.  I suggest going back to stock.

TeriAnn

On 7/5/14, 5:23 PM, Jeff wrote:
> I've been trying to get my TR4A on the road before winter sets in again.
> I'm having a heck of a time getting my SU HS6 carburetors tuned.  I pulled
> the floats and checked the fuel in the chamber.  They have Grose Jets in
> them.  Both chambers have fuel about 1/2 way up the bowl.  I've done the
> tuning on both carbs to where when you lift the piston the engine RPM seems
> to rise and fall.  The engine runs great, I can rev it with no hesitation
> and it seems very smooth.  I pulled the plugs and they were normal color.
> When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 blocks and it starts
> missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are really sooty.
> What am I missing?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E67BC06411CA43C7B5E1AE64AA402A2B@DaveLaptop>
 <53B86042.1030702@gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bHYSH0tr1TDXyijc=GVuHQBV=pB=bbeBK73VMrMnSkwhg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 22:55:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

RE:  Kids and TRs--My first sports car memory was from when a was about 5 
years old give or take I would wake up before everybody else on the weekend 
and go roam around the neighborhood (different times) One fine morning I 
happened upon a TR2 or TR3, the shape burned into my little blank slate 
brain, a cool little car that looked like I could climb in and take it for a 
spin.  It was just around the corner, and I don't remember ever seeing it 
but that one morning, which was from memory one of those first warm mornings 
of spring when the air was fresh and clean.  Yes, I think the cars leave an 
impression on kids.

RE:  Big Dogs and Sports Cars--One of my first jobs was at a place called 
Foreign Auto Parts, they did service and repairs also, I was a parts runner 
and clean up guy, anyway, the owner had an Irish Wolfhound that hung out in 
the shop everyday and went was regularly transported in the owner's daily 
driver Alfa Spyder, the dogs head stuck out over the windshield and they 
were quite a site running around town.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 23:37:48 -0500
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

There's a guy in the Utah club that rides around with his English Sheep dog in
his TR3, quite a site.

Always invite what I perceive to be responsible kids to sit in the car if
parents are near by.

Also have an old Land Rover that gets to a few shows "cool Jeep, Buddy!"  Sign
on the front says "all kids welcome".  They turn every knob and flip every
switch, it's virtually indestructible.   Lots of fun for all ages.

Not sure how I ended up in a TR3, everyone I knew had a different LBC, maybe I
was just trying to be different.  I still am....

Bill B
1962 TR3B
1967 Morgan 4/4
1968 Land Rover Series 2A

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 5, 2014, at 10:55 PM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

RE:  Kids and TRs--My first sports car memory was from when a was about 5
years old give or take I would wake up before everybody else on the weekend
and go roam around the neighborhood (different times) One fine morning I
happened upon a TR2 or TR3, the shape burned into my little blank slate brain,
a cool little car that looked like I could climb in and take it for a spin.
It was just around the corner, and I don't remember ever seeing it but that
one morning, which was from memory one of those first warm mornings of spring
when the air was fresh and clean.  Yes, I think the cars leave an impression
on kids.

RE:  Big Dogs and Sports Cars--One of my first jobs was at a place called
Foreign Auto Parts, they did service and repairs also, I was a parts runner
and clean up guy, anyway, the owner had an Irish Wolfhound that hung out in
the shop everyday and went was regularly transported in the owner's daily
driver Alfa Spyder, the dogs head stuck out over the windshield and they were
quite a site running around town.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 05:53:06 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <E67BC06411CA43C7B5E1AE64AA402A2B@DaveLaptop>
 <53B86042.1030702@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was..again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On 7/5/14, 9:37 PM, Wbeech wrote:
> Bill B
> 1962 TR3B
> 1967 Morgan 4/4
> 1968 Land Rover Series 2A
>
I've found that the TR3 and Series Land Rover are such different driving 
experiences that when you switch back and forth depending upon what you 
are doing and your mood you never get tired of either.  But it is the 
Land Rover that carries the dog and ventures out in the snow.  These 
cars are a great complimentary pair.

There was a very recent off topic thread on one of the Land Rover lists 
about who owns other British cars.  It seems a lot of Land Rover owners 
also own a British car.  Mostly TRs & MGs but there is the occasional 
Morris, Bentley and tiger.

I have always been just a little jealous of Morgans.  To my mind they 
are just a little more Triumph like than a TR3.  Or should I say just a 
little closer to my idea of the ideal Triumph than my TR3.  No way would 
I kick a Morgan Super Sport out of my garage.

Nice group of cars Bill.

TeriAnn
1961 TR3A (built in spring of 1960)
1960 Land Rover Dormobile

My only vehicles.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 06:04:03 -0700
From: Randall Zempel <rzempel@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] so there I was
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

A couple years ago I found myself driving the TR3 up Rodeo Drive in Beverly
Hills.  Stopped at a red light with a super exotic supercar to my left.
Just as the light changed, a young man with a camera ran into the
intersection to our left...and waited for the exotic to move out of the way
so he could photo the Triumph.  Exotic is in the eye of the beholder and
TR3s are a bit rarer in that town than the italian imports.  :)

RandallZ

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 13:42:52 -0500
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Italyfound <italyfound@gmail.com>
Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Made it to Minnesota.


On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 4:51 AM, Italyfound <italyfound@gmail.com> wrote:

> Is this server down? Email being rejected...
>
> Alex Manzo
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7@gmail.com
>



-- 
pethier@comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 <53B8C82F.6090301@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 11:42:28 -0700
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
 "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

in my case it was a very weak coil
frank 


On Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:53 PM,
TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman@gmail.com> wrote:
  


Grose jets tend to
stick.  I had a pair on an MGBGT.  They didn't stay 
there very long.  I
suggest going back to stock.

TeriAnn


On 7/5/14, 5:23 PM, Jeff wrote:
> I've
been trying to get my TR4A on the road before winter sets in again.
> I'm
having a heck of a time getting my SU HS6 carburetors tuned.  I pulled
> the
floats and checked the fuel in the chamber.  They have Grose Jets in
> them. 
Both chambers have fuel about 1/2 way up the bowl.  I've done the
> tuning on
both carbs to where when you lift the piston the engine RPM seems
> to rise
and fall.  The engine runs great, I can rev it with no hesitation
> and it
seems very smooth.  I pulled the plugs and they were normal color.
> When I
take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 blocks and it starts
>
missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are really sooty.
>
What am I missing?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 16:53:53 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [TR] Tr-so there I was
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Status: RO

Today taking a walk in Manhattan a brand new Lamborghini convertible pulls up
and stops at a red light. the young male driver driving solo was bleeping the
gas pedal at the light thinking he was Kool Moe Zee. Slight changes and he
goes to parallel park the car. While doing so he backs the rear wheel into the
curb and his head goes down in dismay. Act like a jerk and you pay the price.
Larry Schwartz

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jeff" <piggerp@comcast.net>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Thanks for the input.  I'm ordering the viton tip needle.  My fuel pump is
the stock mechanical pump.  Can that put out to much pressure?

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 6:40 PM
To: 'Jeff'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes


> When I take it for a spin though I can only get about 2 
> blocks and it starts
> missing badly.  I get it home and pull the plugs and they are 
> really sooty.

Others will disagree, I'm sure.  But my first step would be to replace the
Grose Jets with the proper needle valves.  I don't fully
understand why, but I've fixed several cars with similar symptoms that way.

Or if you happen to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed,
try turning it down a bit.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Vito" <vitop@sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14.1404669603.23060.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 19:03:34 -0500
Thread-Index: AQFwW8fhb+nmUNPWrj8zgfFOiIxAA5xSNFdw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 183
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hello guys. 

I finally sold my transmission and am starting slowly to sell stuff that I
have in my way.

I had tubing made up years ago for the evaporative pipe on a TR6 (I believe
usage was 1972-76). I did it because it had been discontinued. The Moss
number is 379-405 and the Roadster Factory is 216009. I still have one box
(I hope I don't find another!) of a little more than 300 of them. Does
someone want to make me an offer? In total, they are quite heavy and they
are 58 inches long so shipping might be a little costly, but I think worth
it to a dealer that can resell them. You would be the only source as far as
I know.

Over time they crack and get brittle. Not sure if other British Marques also
used the same tube. I know that on the TR6 there are also other places where
a shorter length is required, but this is the long one that goes across the
front.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
triumphs-request@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2014 1:00 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 183

Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
	triumphs@autox.team.net

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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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"Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: so there I was (Randall Zempel)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 06:04:03 -0700
From: Randall Zempel <rzempel@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] so there I was
Message-ID:
	<CAJqHAibsNGR3VOmC+J4F_1rL1u4SZppHgr=BTPizC3r=8moO4A@mail.gmail.com>

A couple years ago I found myself driving the TR3 up Rodeo Drive in Beverly
Hills.  Stopped at a red light with a super exotic supercar to my left.
Just as the light changed, a young man with a camera ran into the
intersection to our left...and waited for the exotic to move out of the way
so he could photo the Triumph.  Exotic is in the eye of the beholder and
TR3s are a bit rarer in that town than the italian imports.  :)

RandallZ


------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

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------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 183
****************************************

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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 20:20:29 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

On 7/4/2014 9:59 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> Italian V12s don't often roam the streets of Flagstaff. Flagstaff is an
> American iron town.  The annual downtown car show limits entries to the
> first 500 and of those I have yet to see more than 5 British entries and
> none of those pesky Italian V12 cars.

I just got back from a trip to Florida...in a two-block length, I passed 
a Land Rover Dealer, a Lotus Dealer, and a combination Jaguar and 
Maserati dealer.  But I still am quite satisfied with my little 
six-cylinder song.

At least until I win the lottery.  Then I'll build a bigger garage.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 20:26:32 -0400
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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On 7/5/2014 9:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> Some years ago now when out in my 2500PI, I found myself being tailgated by
> a 'yuppie' in a BMW.

One advantage to driving a clapped-out Triumph is that a simple 
downshift will dump enough oil on the front of his car to convince him 
that distance is the better part of valor...

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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 17:27:29 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jeff <piggerp@comcast.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
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Status: RO

On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 4:18 PM, Jeff <piggerp@comcast.net> wrote:

> Thanks for the input.  I'm ordering the viton tip needle.  My fuel pump is
> the stock mechanical pump.  Can that put out to much pressure?



I see no way that could occur.

BTW - I've had Grose jets on the TR3A for 30+ years -- one did stick closed
once after a long sit years ago, otherwise no issues.  I'm not recommending
them, just saying they are not always a problem.

No harm in replacing them, but my guess is that you have an ignition
problem and will still get the miss after the change.

Sometimes ignition components fail completely but I have known some to only
fail once they warmed up (thinking of coil & condenser here).

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 21:01:09 -0400
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <53B610AE.3010102@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

BTDT...on purpose as well!

My (sorry for the blasphemy here ) MG Midget use to disappear from the 
garage once in awhile.....
...the wife would take it out and buzz around..... inevitably telling me 
a story afterwards of how she 'greased some guy' for tailgating her.
yes...you could usually SEE the oil spots on their windshield as they 
attempted to use their wipers as they were backing off.
My GT6 was good for that as well...not so much my spit6 though.

ptegler


On 7/6/2014 8:26 PM, Jeff wrote:
> On 7/5/2014 9:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:
>> Some years ago now when out in my 2500PI, I found myself being 
>> tailgated by
>> a 'yuppie' in a BMW.
>
> One advantage to driving a clapped-out Triumph is that a simple 
> downshift will dump enough oil on the front of his car to convince him 
> that distance is the better part of valor...
>
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 18:47:20 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+Ye0CluWYWr7z3SsyqAJzMG3zYtAAMhtggAAD4v5AALfOfMAAG+HkQ
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A carburetors woes
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Status: RO

> My fuel pump is
> the stock mechanical pump.  Can that put out to much pressure?

Normally, no.  But I have seen pumps that were assembled wrong (spring out of place) do it.  And some reproductions seem to just
have the wrong spring installed (also causing pressure too high).

Wouldn't hurt to hang a fuel pressure gauge on it (most vacuum test gauges will also read fuel pump pressure); but if the Viton
valves don't help, I'd take Geo's advice and look at ignition next.

Randall

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From: "Vito" <vitop@sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 00:24:52 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac+Zo8dlyogI6BdMR42JsIKbbZYKcA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] TR6 evaporative pipe for sale
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Status: RO

Sorry - this is a repeat post but with an actual edited subject :-)


Hello guys. 

I finally sold my transmission and am starting slowly to sell stuff that I
have in my way.

I had tubing made up years ago for the evaporative pipe on a TR6 (I believe
usage was 1972-76). I did it because it had been discontinued. The Moss
number is 379-405 and the Roadster Factory is 216009. I still have one box
(I hope I don't find another!) of a little more than 300 of them. Does
someone want to make me an offer? In total, they are quite heavy and they
are 58 inches long so shipping might be a little costly, but I think worth
it to a dealer that can resell them. You would be the only source as far as
I know.

Over time they crack and get brittle. Not sure if other British Marques also
used the same tube. I know that on the TR6 there are also other places where
a shorter length is required, but this is the long one that goes across the
front.

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
triumphs-request@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2014 1:00 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 183

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: so there I was (Randall Zempel)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 06:04:03 -0700
From: Randall Zempel <rzempel@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] so there I was
Message-ID:
	<CAJqHAibsNGR3VOmC+J4F_1rL1u4SZppHgr=BTPizC3r=8moO4A@mail.gmail.com>

A couple years ago I found myself driving the TR3 up Rodeo Drive in Beverly
Hills.  Stopped at a red light with a super exotic supercar to my left.
Just as the light changed, a young man with a camera ran into the
intersection to our left...and waited for the exotic to move out of the way
so he could photo the Triumph.  Exotic is in the eye of the beholder and
TR3s are a bit rarer in that town than the italian imports.  :)

RandallZ


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------------------------------

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] So there I was
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Status: RO

> On 7/5/2014 9:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> Some years ago now when out in my 2500PI, I found myself being tailgated by
> a 'yuppie' in a BMW.


When the top is down, I've found spitting straight up as I drove in front of a tail gater had good effect.  Unfortunately I showed that to my son when he was eight years old.  Spitting straight up became more popular than fart jokes.  

At that point I figgered I'd "bottomed out."


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 11:21:18 -0400
 FILETIME=[6F0950A0:01CF9B89]
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the advice
of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind Moose'
kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 13:28:21 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+bml4MjDmS1LE8RRGmlvoZNldRrg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Old British cars - follow-up
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Status: RO

So...

 

What we have is '30s Rover P2, a Mark Viii or IX Jag, an S-type jag, a
Citroen cv, a TR7, a Datsun, an MGB (fairly far gone), a car which looked
like a small Morris Minor wagon with all  the wood which I was told was a
Fiat,  and what I thought was an Austin-Healey.  The barn was completely
dark and the only light I had was from my camera flash.  When I got home, I
realized it was an MGA ! 

 

The family just discovered another barn 3 miles away with 6 more cars, but
I'm told they are all American.

 

One son said they'd take $1000 a car, but the other son doesn't agree and
wants to hold an auction.  I know several of you were interested, so I'll
keep you posted (individually).

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 12:36 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:

List:  I was approached earlier this week by a guy who said there were 70
old British and European cars in a series of barns about an hour from my
house in Michigan.  Apparently the old guy had died and the family wanted
them out of there.  As often happens, the story wasn't quite right: the
number was more like 20, and the was a mixture of British, European and US
cars.  The only TR was a TR7 which looked to be in good condition.



There were two Jaguars, both 4-door sedans, one with a British "F"
registration (1967) and the other looked to be much earlier.  Both had new
interiors and minimal rust.  There was also a Rover which I would guess was
from the 40s or 50s.



The only car which interested me was an Austin-Healey 3000 which I made an
offer on.



The family asked me to see if I could help them sell the cars as no-one is
interested in eBay or Craigslist at this point.



I realize this is a Triumph list, but if anyone is interested or knows
someone who might be, I took lots of pictures and can be contacted off-list.
Mark:  if you want to forward this to any other lists, please do so.



Since I am having some difficulties with this list (especially when I post),
could someone let me know if this message does make it out to the rest of
you?  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier7@gmail.com





 

-- 

pethier@comcast.net still works also

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
 <http://www.mnautox.com/> http://www.mnautox.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
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Status: RO

Run, don't walk, away from this conversion.  This puts the shock
loading onto the inner wheel well which was not designed for this
loading.  Instead use something like this:

http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/t6/t6sh5.htm

This bracket puts the shock absorber loading directly onto the frame
mount for the lever shock.  I've had this conversion on my car for 10+
years and I love it.


Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 10:21 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion


All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube
shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the
advice
of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind
Moose'
kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 18:12:37 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 18:12:37 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
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Status: RO

---- Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote: 
> Run, don't walk, away from this conversion.  This puts the shock
> loading onto the inner wheel well which was not designed for this
> loading. 

I believe you are thinking of a different conversion.  The "Blind Moose" conversion is the one that Herman van den Akker designed and installed on his own TR250.  It only attaches to the original shock mount.
http://www.blindmoosefab.com/rear_shock.htm

BTW, the original shock mount wasn't really designed for the load that a tube shock puts on it either.  I've heard many reports of it breaking.  So some reinforcement is probably a good idea.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 13:13:16 -0500
To: "emorat1@hotmail.com" <emorat1@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [TR] Tube Shocks
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Status: RO

One way to go is the RATCO conversion.

It has a crossover tube that stabilizes the assembly.

We did it on our race car. The assembly was easy and it withstands extreme
rigors of racing.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Actually, I think the Blind Moose kit mounts just like that one.  I have it
on my TR4A, and it has been fine, but I also don't put a lot of miles on it.
Bob Danielson has some pages on it, and a secondary brace that can be added:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose2.htm

-Darrell

On Jul 09, 2014, at
10:51 AM, Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:

Run, don't walk, away from this
conversion. This puts the shock
loading onto the inner wheel well which was
not designed for this
loading. Instead use something like this:
http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/t6/t6sh5.htm

This bracket puts the
shock absorber loading directly onto the frame
mount for the lever shock. I've
had this conversion on my car for 10+
years and I love it.


Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com        >
To: triumphs
<triumphs@autox.team.net        >
Sent: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 10:21 am
Subject:
[TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion


All,

I know that there has been previous
discussions on converting to tube
shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the
previous emails and would like the
advice
of the group regarding converting
and in particular using the 'Blind
Moose'
kit. It seems to me that it would
tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive:
dave1massey@cs.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1masse
y@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Donate:
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
darrellw360@mac.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw3
60@mac.com

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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2014 13:31:26 -0500
To: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
References: <SNT149-W369A998830D7F5B0DB47A0FE0F0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Lever shocks can be made better than the originals.

         Peter C
=
At 10:21 AM 7/9/2014, ED wrote:
>All,
>
>I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube shocks
>on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the advice
>of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind Moose'
>kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.
>
>Regards,
>
>Ed Morat
>1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@TR6.Danielsonfamily.org>
To: "ED" <emorat1@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT149-W369A998830D7F5B0DB47A0FE0F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 14:45:23 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

As Randall pointed out, Herman developed the kit and now it's sold under the 
blind moose name. Herman told me that when it first came out, the auto-x 
guys were using it and breaking the mount point so he came up with the brace 
that I then put on my car. He also told me that once the auto-x guys 
installed the brace he never heard of another mount breaking.

My gut tells me that there's a lot of "bad" lever shock mounts out there 
that were destined to break at some point and this conversion just helped it 
along. If you do the Blind Moose kit, you have to do the bracket.

I've had it on the car for about 6 years now with no problems. I do check 
the mounts every year and they still look solid. The write up is here 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
1975 Mimosa TR6
TBI, 5 Speed, LSD, CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: ED
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 11:21 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion

All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the 
advice
of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind Moose'
kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT149-W369A998830D7F5B0DB47A0FE0F0@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 14:22:13 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

many people feel that by upgrading to the stiffer valve on lever shocks you 
are better off.

there is a great company that gives you that option when they swap out 
shocks with you (they send you the new ones, with a return box).

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg


-----Original Message----- 
From: ED
Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 10:21 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion

All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the 
advice
of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind Moose'
kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "John Cohen" <jmcoh@comcast.net>
To: "'ED'" <emorat1@hotmail.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:38:35 -0400
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ed,
Switching to the Blind Moose conversion and adjustable SPAX shocks  was one
of the first things I did to my 76 TR6 and the improvement in handling was
dramatic.  Now to be fair, the lever shocks that I took off were probably
shot.  After having the conversion on for about 5 years, I noticed the
cracking in the mounts and had everything reinforced, welded up and then I
added the recommended bracing.  Not one problem since, I still believe it is
one of the best upgrades I have made to the car.

John Cohen 


All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the
advice of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind
Moose'
kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: Joe Burlein <floridatr6@cfl.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 17:46:00 -0400
References: <SNT149-W369A998830D7F5B0DB47A0FE0F0@phx.gbl>
 <70F67D5EEF24404E9E5DE668A4F1ACA7@Ranteer.local>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I had Apple rebuild my lever arms to stiffer spec years ago. They came back
looking new and have performed flawlessly.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 15:22, "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> many people feel that by upgrading to the stiffer valve on lever shocks you
are better off.
>
> there is a great company that gives you that option when they swap out
shocks with you (they send you the new ones, with a return box).
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ShockRec.jpg
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: ED
> Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 10:21 AM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
>
> All,
>
> I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube
shocks
> on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the
advice
> of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind Moose'
> kit.  It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed Morat
> 1973 TR6
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/floridatr6@cfl.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sorry, this is the first site I saw when I googled it:

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose.htm

I didn't read all the text.

Herman's kit, like the one I linked to, is the way to go if you want to
go tube conversion.

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 1:12 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion


---- Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
> Run, don't walk, away from this conversion.  This puts the shock
> loading onto the inner wheel well which was not designed for this
> loading.

I believe you are thinking of a different conversion.  The "Blind
Moose"
conversion is the one that Herman van den Akker designed and installed
on his
own TR250.  It only attaches to the original shock mount.
http://www.blindmoosefab.com/rear_shock.htm

BTW, the original shock mount wasn't really designed for the load that
a tube
shock puts on it either.  I've heard many reports of it breaking.  So
some
reinforcement is probably a good idea.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion
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Status: RO

My first kit was like that.  There were three pieces on each side.  A
bracket in the wheel well, a bracket on the inside the tub and a third
that bolted to the shock mount on the frame.  Aside from the 16 holes
needed in the coachwork and getting things aligned properly, the tires
rubbed.

Too soon old, too late smart.

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
To: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 1:14 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion





Actually, I think the Blind Moose kit mounts just like that one. B I
have it on my TR4A, and it has been fine, but I also don't put a lot of
miles on it.


Bob Danielson has some pages on it, and a secondary brace that can be
added:


http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose2.htm


-Darrell

On Jul 09, 2014, at 10:51 AM, Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:




Run, don't walk, away from this conversion. This puts the shock
loading onto the inner wheel well which was not designed for this
loading. Instead use something like this:

http://www.victoriabritish.com/features/t6/t6sh5.htm

This bracket puts the shock absorber loading directly onto the frame
mount for the lever shock. I've had this conversion on my car for 10+
years and I love it.


Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: ED <emorat1@hotmail.com B  B  B  B >
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net B  B  B  B >
Sent: Wed, Jul 9, 2014 10:21 am
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear Shock Conversion


All,

I know that there has been previous discussions on converting to tube
shocks
on the TR6, however, I have lost the previous emails and would like the
advice
of the group regarding converting and in particular using the 'Blind
Moose'
kit. It seems to me that it would tear loose at the mount points.

Regards,

Ed Morat
1973 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
dave1massey@cs.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1m
assey@cs.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
darrellw360@mac.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darre
llw360@mac.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: "Italyfound" <italyfound@gmail.com>
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 13:20:47 +0200
Subject: [TR] Could it be rings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hello all....

Need some input on a problem with my '59 TR3A.

Two years ago #3 cylinder went along with the rings.

Replaced the cylinder with original brand and rings. Everything was
fine....engine ran well.

The car has about 1500 miles on it since the repair.

Last week developed a major rough idle. Today pulled the plugs and for the
most part they were fouled. This is uncommon for this car as it runs rich.

Cleaned all the plugs reset points and plugs and started the car. Fired right
up...ran like a kitten for about 3 minutes.....when it started running rough
again.

Pulled #3 plug and it was black. What I noticed was fumes coming out of the
plug hole.

Prior to this I had to try and adjust the old type plug wire for this cylinder
as it appeared loose and I thought it was causing a misfire.

I am suspecting a few issues here.
  1.. #3 cylinder plug wire is causing a misfire where combustion is not
complete and when the plug is removed the fumes are a result of not firing.
  2.. The rings are gone and or both the rings and cylinder...
Any input appreciated!

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 04:53:07 -0700
From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] blind moose sshocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi List! 
I have this set up (Blind Moose style) & I'm willing to sell it WITH
the Spax shocks for a very low price of: $120.00 Plus you pay shipping. my zip
code is: 14214 if you want to get an idea of shipping costs.

Contact me if
interested.
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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References: <0FF7ECD8F8724C92B86F4A8A6040A95A@AlexPC>
From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 09:18:23 -0500
To: Italyfound <italyfound@gmail.com>
Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Could it be rings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

First thing, check the compression to see if all cylinders are within 10-15
lbs of each other(highest to lowest).

If #3 is good and you suspect the wire, replace it and see what happens.   If
you don't have a new set just swap the wire with a known good cylinder.

If you don't have a good bead cleaner for the plugs, put in a new set.

Good luck, I hope it's just the wire!

Bill B
1862 TR3

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 11, 2014, at 6:20 AM, "Italyfound" <italyfound@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all....

Need some input on a problem with my '59 TR3A.

Two years ago #3 cylinder went along with the rings.

Replaced the cylinder with original brand and rings. Everything was
fine....engine ran well.

The car has about 1500 miles on it since the repair.

Last week developed a major rough idle. Today pulled the plugs and for the
most part they were fouled. This is uncommon for this car as it runs rich.

Cleaned all the plugs reset points and plugs and started the car. Fired right
up...ran like a kitten for about 3 minutes.....when it started running rough
again.

Pulled #3 plug and it was black. What I noticed was fumes coming out of the
plug hole.

Prior to this I had to try and adjust the old type plug wire for this
cylinder
as it appeared loose and I thought it was causing a misfire.

I am suspecting a few issues here.
 1.. #3 cylinder plug wire is causing a misfire where combustion is not
complete and when the plug is removed the fumes are a result of not firing.
 2.. The rings are gone and or both the rings and cylinder...
Any input appreciated!

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: dave@ranteer.com
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 07:52:03 -0700
User-Agent: MailAPI 
Subject: [TR] TR3 seat tracks etc
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Getting ready to install the full interior kit on a 57 smallmouth.  The
interior kit was ordered from TRF years ago.  There is no hardware (nuts,
bolts, and screws).

It looks to me, from the moss catalog, that I need 16  of 323-580 for the
doors.

Then I need 8 bolts for the seat tracks. Can anyone tell me the correct
size/length and if I should put in washers or lock washers?  These don't show
so I'm looking for best practice here.

I can easily measure the size but I'm particularly concerned about length and
if I should use washers.  The moss pages are not helpful.

Thank you!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: Wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 10:06:03 -0500
To: "dave@ranteer.com" <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 seat tracks etc
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I used washers and lock washers for the seats, just lock washers for the
tracks on mine.  ISTR 1/4-28x3/4" did the job.

Doors take 3/4" #4 stainless slotted  sheet metal screw and cup washer.  Take
great care with your drill going though the panel, if you have a small punch
that would be good.


Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 11, 2014, at 9:52 AM, dave@ranteer.com wrote:

Getting ready to install the full interior kit on a 57 smallmouth.  The
interior kit was ordered from TRF years ago.  There is no hardware (nuts,
bolts, and screws).

It looks to me, from the moss catalog, that I need 16  of 323-580 for the
doors.

Then I need 8 bolts for the seat tracks. Can anyone tell me the correct
size/length and if I should put in washers or lock washers?  These don't show
so I'm looking for best practice here.

I can easily measure the size but I'm particularly concerned about length and
if I should use washers.  The moss pages are not helpful.

Thank you!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 20:33:26 -0400
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Strange TR3 OD issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hello all

I am having a very odd problem with my TR3 OD.

I will start from the beginning.

The box is a TR3 OD with no syncro into first. It was rebuilt by John Esposito
at Quantum Mechanics about 4 years ago.

Last summer, I was having difficulty getting the OD engaged. I would have to
sit with my foot off the accelerator for 5-10 seconds before it would engage.
At the end of the summer, it started leaking copious amounts of oil  (like a
quart every 50 miles or so).

I decided this needed to be sorted out this summer.

We pulled the transmission and I took it to John to work on while I waited (he
was very good about making an appointment to do this). He disassembled
everything, put in all new gaskets and seals, and ran it up to check it. He
found the pressure was a bit low and put shims in to bring the pressure up and
all seemed OK.

I brought it home, we put the transmission back in the car and now it will go
right in to OD. The problem is, when you get to about 3K RPM it will pop out.
If you leave the overdrive switch engaged, it will pop back in when the RPM
drop to about 3.6K.

The really odd thing is that this ONLY happens in third and fourth. It works
perfectly in second. I have tried to get it to pop out in second using
everything I could think of and it would not.

If I drive it for a while, the RPM it will pop out of OD will decrease e.g. it
will pop out at 2.7K and back in at 3.2K.

It no longer leaks oil and is full ( I just checked it again.)

I am using straight 30 weight oil as recommended by John Esposito.

The only thing I can think of that is common to third and fourth is that they
use the same lockout switch, but I don't know why it would pop out at a
particular RPM EVERY time.

Any ideas?

TIA

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 0:53:35 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>, Triumph List
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 0:53:35 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Strange TR3 OD issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> The only thing I can think of that is common to third and fourth is that they
> use the same lockout switch, but I don't know why it would pop out at a
> particular RPM EVERY time.

Vibration sensitive?

Probably my first step would be to connect a voltmeter/DMM to the OD relay, and take a test ride.  If it shows that the relay drops out when the OD does, you know it's an electrical issue.  Then change the connection so you can see the lockout switch at work.  Again, if it drops out when the OD does, you've found your culprit.

Might not be the switch, but the wires/connections to it.  One of the Stags would drop out for no apparent reason (although it was much more random) and it turned out that the quick connect to the solenoid was very slightly loose.  Not loose enough to fall off, but loose enough to sometimes lose contact.  So, if the above test does show the relay is not being grounded through the lockout switch, the next test might be to remove the tunnel and repeat the experiment with the meter connected directly to the terminals on the switch.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Italyfound" <italyfound@gmail.com>
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 12:26:01 +0200
Subject: [TR] Could it be rings-Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Well thank you all who responded......

Here's the results of the compression test on my '59 TR3A...

...As you may remember my thinking was rings or wires causing the
problem.........

Compression test.........

#1 cylinder.....................178 psi
#2 cylinder.....................180 psi
#3 cylinder.....................180 psi
#4 cylinder.....................178 psi

  ..so next test is to replace the bumble bee wires with new ignition wires.
The problem here is ordering replacement  wires from the UK for here in Italy
will take about 10 days. My TR3A has the side entrance cap. So I will purchase
appropriate length wires and cut the end off to insert into the hole in the
cap.

Stay tuned....

thx again...

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6
00 Fiat Barchetta

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Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Could it be rings-Update
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Status: RO

>so next test is to replace the bumble bee wires with new ignition wires.

Hi, Alex.  Yes, looks like your compression is good.  And you say when you first looked at the plugs and cleaned them, when you restarted the car it purred for a few minutes before going rough again.  Definitely sounds electrical.  

If your current spark plug wires are copper core, then the ends can get corroded, especially an issue if you have the screw-in terminals on your cap.  You could try snipping the wire off a bit, peel it back and reseat the wire.  If you're careful, you can reuse the connectors for the spark plugs.  

I would also check to ensure that your coil wire is solidly seated.  

More usually, ignition problems are with the points/condensor/rotor and cap.  Can't remember if you've done a full tune up in a while.

Have fun!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 09:05:56 -0400
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: Italyfound <italyfound@gmail.com>, *Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <25A82D6A7AFD482B8C7F94FF0835D938@AlexPC>
Subject: Re: [TR] Could it be rings-Update
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Status: RO

Is that a 'dry' compression test? (with carbs wedged open)
You should do a 'wet' compression test as well to validate the real 
condition of your rings.
The relative consistency of your readings is a good sign, but both a dry 
and wet comp test is always the best way to validate rings.

ptegler

On 7/12/2014 6:26 AM, Italyfound wrote:
> Well thank you all who responded......
>
> Here's the results of the compression test on my '59 TR3A...
>
> ...As you may remember my thinking was rings or wires causing the
> problem.........
>
> Compression test.........
>
> #1 cylinder.....................178 psi
> #2 cylinder.....................180 psi
> #3 cylinder.....................180 psi
> #4 cylinder.....................178 psi
>
>    ..so next test is to replace the bumble bee wires with new ignition wires.
> The problem here is ordering replacement  wires from the UK for here in Italy
> will take about 10 days. My TR3A has the side entrance cap. So I will purchase
> appropriate length wires and cut the end off to insert into the hole in the
> cap.
>
> Stay tuned....
>
> thx again...
>
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
> 72 TR6
> 00 Fiat Barchetta
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net, ols@bcdef.net
References: <4EB27345-5F7D-43F1-A361-F1796933976A@bcdef.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Strange TR3 OD issue
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Status: RO

On 7/11/2014 8:33 PM, Alexander Delis wrote:
> I am using straight 30 weight oil as recommended by John Esposito.

Non-detergent, right?




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Italyfound'" <italyfound@gmail.com>, "'*Triumphs List'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 09:51:56 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Could it be rings-Update
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>   ..so next test is to replace the bumble bee wires with new 
> ignition wires.
> The problem here is ordering replacement  wires from the UK 
> for here in Italy
> will take about 10 days. My TR3A has the side entrance cap. 
> So I will purchase
> appropriate length wires and cut the end off to insert into 
> the hole in the
> cap.

Two things to be aware of:

1) I've had trouble several times with the common "carbon core" wires and the original TR3A distributor cap with the piercing
screws.  The carbon tends to burn around the point of the screw, creating a high resistance connection inside the wire where it
can't be seen.  For that reason, I prefer to run solid-core wires with suppression resistors at the plugs (if needed).  Motorcycle
shops still sell plug caps with resistors built into them, which just screw on to the end of solid core wires.

2) A bad wire can sometimes cause invisible (electrical) damage to the cap and/or rotor.  If you still have problems after changing
the wires, try changing the cap & rotor as well.  It's a good idea to have spares on hand anyway; and if they aren't the problem,
you can always go back to the old components and save the new for next time.

I have seen a TR4A that would not run at all, due to damage to the brand new (less than 200 miles) rotor caused by a bad wire.  Even
knowing it had to be bad, we couldn't see anything wrong with it.  But just changing the rotor made it run great.

Randall

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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] Could it be rings-Update
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Status: RO

Hi Alex,

A few other ideas... and easy things to try...

Have you tried different plugs, or perhaps simply swapping around the spark
plugs? It's not unheard of for new plugs to fail relatively quickly, and that
might cause problems similar to what you described.

If changing the plugs doesn't help, depending upon the lengths of your current
plug wires, you also might be able to simply swap them around too, to see if
the problem moves to a different cylinder along with a particular wire.

Also check both ends of the wire are clean and secure, and that none of the
plug wires are touching and running parallel to each other... that can cause a
persistent misfire. Keep the wires separated or only crossing at relatively
close to 90 degree angle.



Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
amfoto1@aol.com
www.amfoto1.printroom.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/
'62 TR4 CT17602L
www.triumphowners.com/640



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 12:26:01 +0200
From: "Italyfound" <italyfound@gmail.com>
To: "*Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Could it be rings-Update

Well thank you all who responded......

Here's the results of the compression test on my '59 TR3A...

...As you may remember my thinking was rings or wires causing the
problem.........

Compression test.........

#1 cylinder.....................178 psi
#2 cylinder.....................180 psi
#3 cylinder.....................180 psi
#4 cylinder.....................178 psi

  ..so next test is to replace the bumble bee wires with new ignition wires.
The problem here is ordering replacement  wires from the UK for here in Italy
will take about 10 days. My TR3A has the side entrance cap. So I will
purchase
appropriate length wires and cut the end off to insert into the hole in the
cap.

Stay tuned....

thx again...

Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6
00 Fiat Barchetta

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:48:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil
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Status: RO

Took a four hour drive yesterday, temperature in the 80's, and neared the house when the TR3A stumbled briefly, then died altogether.  Got under the hood and found no spark to the plugs.  Checked the voltage at the coil positive terminal, and had that, so guessed it was either the coil itself or the Pertrinox.  Wiring is solid core and connections are tight.  Dizzy cap is good.  Tried three different rotors.  Changed out the dizzy plate to points, still no spark.  

So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?

Thanks, everyone.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 05:59:25 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On 7/13/14, 4:48 AM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?
>
The Bosh blue coil is always reliable.

But first did you try swapping out the condenser?  If it failed you 
would have the same symptoms.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 06:19:50 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If I were to carry only one spare part, it would be a coil.  They do
sometimes failand the spare can be swapped on in (literally) seconds.  I
have a small bungee wrapped around it so I can just strap it on to the
mounted coil and move the leads over.

I have used it myself a few times, more times than that on someone else's
car.

I also carry a spare condenser but it takes minutes to install so I try the
coil first.

Just saying, if you end up with a new coil (or condenser) that you don't
need after all -- it isn't such a bad thing to own.

Geo


On Sun, Jul 13, 2014 at 4:48 AM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

> Took a four hour drive yesterday, temperature in the 80's, and neared the
> house when the TR3A stumbled briefly, then died altogether.  Got under the
> hood and found no spark to the plugs.  Checked the voltage at the coil
> positive terminal, and had that, so guessed it was either the coil itself
> or the Pertrinox.  Wiring is solid core and connections are tight.  Dizzy
> cap is good.  Tried three different rotors.  Changed out the dizzy plate to
> points, still no spark.
>
> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket
> replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on
> these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?
>
> Thanks, everyone.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Dave Hammond" <dbh97530@gmail.com>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>,
  <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
 <53C282AD.3060108@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 06:23:57 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+emk2IsPu4omT5TZSTmwwf/IyPOQAAx1RA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm looking for a core overdrive from a tr 3,4 or 6. Anyone out there have
one to sell?
David

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
References: <1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
 <53C282AD.3060108@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 09:51:18 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi TerriAnn,
I have been looking for one of the Bosch blue coils with no luck. I 
understand that they are epoxy filled vs. oil filled?
Would you know where I could purchase one of these coils, or maybe someone 
else on the list knows of a source??
I have a misfire in my TR4A at constant speeds over 2,500 RPM but it idles 
perfectly at 1,000RPM and will pull through the gears to 4,000 RPM like 
crazy, just can't drive over 2,500 RPM for any length of time. I am thinking 
it might be related to my coil. Or, it could be fuel related,, or maybe it's 
those bronze valve guides that are being replaced with stock cast iron 
pieces?
Still, I would like to get a source for the blue Bosch coil just in case.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil


> On 7/13/14, 4:48 AM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket 
>> replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on 
>> these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?
>>
> The Bosh blue coil is always reliable.
>
> But first did you try swapping out the condenser?  If it failed you would 
> have the same symptoms.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt@fuse.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 08:46:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-40511-Flame-Thrower-Volt-Coil/dp/B00199BO4C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1405259123&sr=1-1&keywords=pertronix+flamethrower+coil

I use this on several cars

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:48 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil

Took a four hour drive yesterday, temperature in the 80's, and neared the 
house when the TR3A stumbled briefly, then died altogether.  Got under the 
hood and found no spark to the plugs.  Checked the voltage at the coil 
positive terminal, and had that, so guessed it was either the coil itself or 
the Pertrinox.  Wiring is solid core and connections are tight.  Dizzy cap 
is good.  Tried three different rotors.  Changed out the dizzy plate to 
points, still no spark.

So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket replacement 
coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking 
for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?

Thanks, everyone.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
 <53C282AD.3060108@gmail.com>
 <03E795ED53F4442CB815D0E8A69EC9A2@DaveLaptop>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 08:51:11 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00012-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001CO4WA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1405259410&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+ignition+coil


-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 8:51 AM
To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil

Hi TerriAnn,
I have been looking for one of the Bosch blue coils with no luck. I
understand that they are epoxy filled vs. oil filled?
Would you know where I could purchase one of these coils, or maybe someone
else on the list knows of a source??
I have a misfire in my TR4A at constant speeds over 2,500 RPM but it idles
perfectly at 1,000RPM and will pull through the gears to 4,000 RPM like
crazy, just can't drive over 2,500 RPM for any length of time. I am thinking
it might be related to my coil. Or, it could be fuel related,, or maybe it's
those bronze valve guides that are being replaced with stock cast iron
pieces?
Still, I would like to get a source for the blue Bosch coil just in case.
Thanks in advance,
Dave Connitt 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 14:21:59 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
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Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?

>> The Bosh blue coil is always reliable.

Thank you, everone.  The original set up was a Pertronix.  I switched it with a points/condensor, but no improvement.

Question:  Do Pertronix take a special coil?  ISTR that they might....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <368470128.523210.1405261319192.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 09:45:10 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

only if your old system had a 1.5 ohm coil.  this would only be the later 
cars, as in TR6 post 74? which used a ballast resistor.  trying to use a 1.5 
ohm coil with a pertronix is generally a $100 mistake.  but your car, 
assuming it is a TR3 as stated in the title, should not have any of this 
stuff, and you should be fine with any 3.0 ohm coil.  its generally a good 
idea to test your coil before using it with a pertronix for the above 
reason.

any 3.0 ohm coil will do, but you will get better performance with a higher 
voltage coil than with an less powerful one.   I should also add that you 
can gap your plugs wider with a pertronix and high performance coil than 
with a low voltage coil and points/condenser.  I run about .035 vs .025

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 9:21 AM
To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil

> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket 
> replacement coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on 
> these?  If looking for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?

>> The Bosh blue coil is always reliable.

Thank you, everone.  The original set up was a Pertronix.  I switched it 
with a points/condensor, but no improvement.

Question:  Do Pertronix take a special coil?  ISTR that they might.... 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 08:18:24 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+eouWKiXB8xaQTRBODxvq4A6n5cwACZn4g
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> I have been looking for one of the Bosch blue coils with no luck. I
> understand that they are epoxy filled vs. oil filled?

Which is odd, because the oil provides better cooling for the coil.  Normally, epoxy filled coils are only for short-term race track
service.  The epoxy provides better vibration resistance, but poorer cooling.

Note that there are quite a few different coils that are blue and say Bosch on them. Eg,
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html

> I have a misfire in my TR4A at constant speeds over 2,500 RPM 
> but it idles
> perfectly at 1,000RPM and will pull through the gears to 
> 4,000 RPM like
> crazy, just can't drive over 2,500 RPM for any length of 
> time. I am thinking
> it might be related to my coil.

Seems unlikely to me, but could be.  It's certainly worth swapping in another coil as a test.

> Or, it could be fuel 
> related,,

Does sound more like fuel starvation.  Will it pick up and run smoothly if you back off the throttle but keep the rpm up?

> or maybe it's
> those bronze valve guides that are being replaced with stock cast iron
> pieces?

Another possibility, if they weren't reamed large enough after installation.

> Still, I would like to get a source for the blue Bosch coil 
> just in case.

FWIW, I've got about 4 years on a Pertronix coil since my new Lucas Sports coil died in 2010.  Works great so far.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 09:01:38 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <5F.25.11986.743A2C35@cdptpa-oedge03>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On 7/13/14, 8:18 AM, Randall wrote:
>> I have been looking for one of the Bosch blue coils with no luck. I
>>
>> Note that there are quite a few different coils that are blue and say Bosch on them. Eg,
>> http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html
>>
>>
Gesh!   Things change a lot over time.  back in the days when I 
purchased the Bosch blue coil they were only made in Germany and were 
always very high quality.  Bosch is a brand I always trust to have high 
quality.  I wonder how the makers of knock off products can use the 
Bosch name?

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 12:48:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: TR3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

 I don't know what I did before Randall and Google.


Craig
72 TR6
 
 
On 07/13/14, Randall<TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
 
> I have been looking for one of the Bosch blue coils with no luck. I
> understand that they are epoxy filled vs. oil filled?

Which is odd, because the oil provides better cooling for the coil. Normally, epoxy filled coils are only for short-term race track
service. The epoxy provides better vibration resistance, but poorer cooling.

Note that there are quite a few different coils that are blue and say Bosch on them. Eg,
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html

> I have a misfire in my TR4A at constant speeds over 2,500 RPM 
> but it idles
> perfectly at 1,000RPM and will pull through the gears to 
> 4,000 RPM like
> crazy, just can't drive over 2,500 RPM for any length of 
> time. I am thinking
> it might be related to my coil.

Seems unlikely to me, but could be. It's certainly worth swapping in another coil as a test.

> Or, it could be fuel 
> related,,

Does sound more like fuel starvation. Will it pick up and run smoothly if you back off the throttle but keep the rpm up?

> or maybe it's
> those bronze valve guides that are being replaced with stock cast iron
> pieces?

Another possibility, if they weren't reamed large enough after installation.

> Still, I would like to get a source for the blue Bosch coil 
> just in case.

FWIW, I've got about 4 years on a Pertronix coil since my new Lucas Sports coil died in 2010. Works great so far.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:41:32 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+etCF6OTwNN0z/RleR/GdXP8gE8wAE4qSg
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

> Bosch is a brand I always trust to 
> have high 
> quality.  I wonder how the makers of knock off products can use the 
> Bosch name?

I don't know, but I suspect that all of those coils were actually made by Bosch or one of their subsidiaries.  They have factories
all over the world.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Bosch_GmbH#Locations

I owned a 71 Audi 100LS with all Bosch electrical system, and I have to say I was not impressed with the quality.  Some areas were
better than others, but overall I'd say it was only marginally better than Lucas during the same period.  

For example, Bosch fuses had to be changed periodically (even without being overloaded), because otherwise they would fail due to
old age!  The Bosch style fuses were just plastic forms with the fuse element bent around the outside.  The clip would pinch the
ends of the fuse element against the plastic form.  Over time, the fuse element would sag and eventually break from vibration and
heat.  I finally discovered that Bussman made glass fuses that would fit the Bosch fuse block, which solved the problem.

The Bosch version of a voltage stabilizer only lasted a few years before it burned out.  After the second one, I built my own from
much larger American components and never had a failure again.

The relay for the rear window defog grid was mounted under the hood; and used phenolic for the base (instead of the more expensive
but more effective fiberglass).  It got to where it would turn the grid on with the key off, only when conditions were just right.
Fought that one for many months, before I just happened to walk by the car one evening and notice the light glowing on the dash!

I also owned a VW Rabbit (aka Golf) from the same period, and it suffered from similar issues.  Its favorite trick was turning the
dome light back on after you had left the car, to run the battery down.  

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 12:29:50 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

In defense of Bosch - I have had good results with most Bosch products.
Granted, that style of fuse with the exposed element (I think the body was
ceramic, not plastic) can easily corrode and cause a failed connection but
those were made by many manufacturers (used them on my Fiats and VWs) and
was just a poor design.

My Bosch ignition wires that I bought in the 90s finally failed and I saw
on their website that they guarantee them for life.  Fortunately, I had
saved the receipt (don't we all) and indeed they promptly sent me a refund
almost 20 years after the original purchase.

My favorite quote from that website:  "Spain (next best thing to
Germany)".  Perhaps the guys in Madrid should adopt that for their tourism
campaigns.

Geo


On Sun, Jul 13, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Bosch is a brand I always trust to
> > have high
> > quality.  I wonder how the makers of knock off products can use the
> > Bosch name?
>
> I don't know, but I suspect that all of those coils were actually made by
> Bosch or one of their subsidiaries.  They have factories
> all over the world.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Bosch_GmbH#Locations
>
> I owned a 71 Audi 100LS with all Bosch electrical system, and I have to
> say I was not impressed with the quality.  Some areas were
> better than others, but overall I'd say it was only marginally better than
> Lucas during the same period.
>
> For example, Bosch fuses had to be changed periodically (even without
> being overloaded), because otherwise they would fail due to
> old age!  The Bosch style fuses were just plastic forms with the fuse
> element bent around the outside.  The clip would pinch the
> ends of the fuse element against the plastic form.  Over time, the fuse
> element would sag and eventually break from vibration and
> heat.  I finally discovered that Bussman made glass fuses that would fit
> the Bosch fuse block, which solved the problem.
>
> The Bosch version of a voltage stabilizer only lasted a few years before
> it burned out.  After the second one, I built my own from
> much larger American components and never had a failure again.
>
> The relay for the rear window defog grid was mounted under the hood; and
> used phenolic for the base (instead of the more expensive
> but more effective fiberglass).  It got to where it would turn the grid on
> with the key off, only when conditions were just right.
> Fought that one for many months, before I just happened to walk by the car
> one evening and notice the light glowing on the dash!
>
> I also owned a VW Rabbit (aka Golf) from the same period, and it suffered
> from similar issues.  Its favorite trick was turning the
> dome light back on after you had left the car, to run the battery down.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 12:55:02 -0700
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Southern Oregon Repair Recommendations?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi. On Friday, my 1962 surrey-top TR4 for was delivered to my new home in Ashland, Oregon, and I'd like to have a professional in the area take a look at the car. It's was restored a couple of years ago, but has been largely off the road since then. My main areas of concern are the brakes (which seem a bit weak) and the fuel systems (the garage smells of gasoline). My Triumph experience has been entirely theoretical until now, and I don't want to take any chances.

Thanks for any advice and recommendations for good service in the Medford/Ashland area.

-- Jeff

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 2Fwec0UWx2Tgw==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Not to defend Bosch or Lucas, but just to relay what was said to me by a
British car specialist many years ago, these companies (he was referring to
Lucas) manufacture the parts that are ordered by their customers - cost and
quality, frequently design. Lucas made parts for airplanes where reliability
is pretty important, his point was that Lucas' bad rap was ill deserved.
Same could be for Bosch. Just saying...

Bob   

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo
Hahn
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 12:30 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil

In defense of Bosch - I have had good results with most Bosch products.
Granted, that style of fuse with the exposed element (I think the body was
ceramic, not plastic) can easily corrode and cause a failed connection but
those were made by many manufacturers (used them on my Fiats and VWs) and
was just a poor design.

My Bosch ignition wires that I bought in the 90s finally failed and I saw on
their website that they guarantee them for life.  Fortunately, I had saved
the receipt (don't we all) and indeed they promptly sent me a refund almost
20 years after the original purchase.

My favorite quote from that website:  "Spain (next best thing to Germany)".
Perhaps the guys in Madrid should adopt that for their tourism campaigns.

Geo


On Sun, Jul 13, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Bosch is a brand I always trust to
> > have high
> > quality.  I wonder how the makers of knock off products can use the 
> > Bosch name?
>
> I don't know, but I suspect that all of those coils were actually made 
> by Bosch or one of their subsidiaries.  They have factories all over 
> the world.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Bosch_GmbH#Locations
>
> I owned a 71 Audi 100LS with all Bosch electrical system, and I have 
> to say I was not impressed with the quality.  Some areas were better 
> than others, but overall I'd say it was only marginally better than 
> Lucas during the same period.
>
> For example, Bosch fuses had to be changed periodically (even without 
> being overloaded), because otherwise they would fail due to old age!  
> The Bosch style fuses were just plastic forms with the fuse element 
> bent around the outside.  The clip would pinch the ends of the fuse 
> element against the plastic form.  Over time, the fuse element would 
> sag and eventually break from vibration and heat.  I finally 
> discovered that Bussman made glass fuses that would fit the Bosch fuse 
> block, which solved the problem.
>
> The Bosch version of a voltage stabilizer only lasted a few years 
> before it burned out.  After the second one, I built my own from much 
> larger American components and never had a failure again.
>
> The relay for the rear window defog grid was mounted under the hood; 
> and used phenolic for the base (instead of the more expensive but more 
> effective fiberglass).  It got to where it would turn the grid on with 
> the key off, only when conditions were just right.
> Fought that one for many months, before I just happened to walk by the 
> car one evening and notice the light glowing on the dash!
>
> I also owned a VW Rabbit (aka Golf) from the same period, and it 
> suffered from similar issues.  Its favorite trick was turning the dome 
> light back on after you had left the car, to run the battery down.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 13:54:12 -0700
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Trans cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

My car came without the cover and while I have 3 rusted hulks with no bottom to try to patch together I noticed BPNW has a TR4 poly cover. I can't imagine they changed the starter location, so it should work.
Anyone have any experience in this. Thanks, Joe Mato

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 16:12:19 -0500
To: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>, "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
  >
References: <1405284852.19901.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 Trans cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm pretty sure that the TR-3 metal trans cover is taller than the 
TR-4 cardboard cover.  Jack used a TR-3 metal cover in his TR-4 race 
car and had to section it to get it to fit the firewall right.

Tony Drews

At 03:54 PM 7/13/2014, JOSEPH MATO wrote:
>My car came without the cover and while I have 3 rusted hulks with 
>no bottom to try to patch together I noticed BPNW has a TR4 poly 
>cover. I can't imagine they changed the starter location, so it should work.
>Anyone have any experience in this. Thanks, Joe Mato
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>,  Spitfire Group
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Subject: [TR] Team.Net archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

For those of you who have gone to the archive link below, you probably
noticed that the last few months are missing and the archive is not getting
updated on a regular basis.

Sorry 'bout that, I still haven't tracked down the exact problem, but hope to have
it back to normal soon.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <mailman.1300.1405273712.5508.triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Anthony Rhodes <spamiam@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 06:30:04 -0400
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Terry,

You can manually test the coil. Take the distributor ground wire off the coil
and place a jumper wire (well insulated)

Then apply power to the coil and then ground the wire and break  the ground.
Of course you need a spark gap tester on the coil output.  Keep yourself
insulated from BOTH the coil output wire and the ground wire.  Do you get a
spark coming from the coil?  Ideally you also have a condenser between the
ground terminal of the coil and ground, too, but you ought to see a spark even
without it.

If you don't get a good spark, then try the same test with a known good coil.

Also remember the TR3 and Pertronix do not use ballast resistors so you should
be using a 12volt, about 3 ohm, coil.

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 13, 2014, at 1:48 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:48:51 +0000 (UTC)
> From: terryrs@comcast.net
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil
> Message-ID:
>
<1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.co
mcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Took a four hour drive yesterday, temperature in the 80's, and neared the
house when the TR3A stumbled briefly, then died altogether.  Got under the
hood and found no spark to the plugs.  Checked the voltage at the coil
positive terminal, and had that, so guessed it was either the coil itself or
the Pertrinox.  Wiring is solid core and connections are tight.  Dizzy cap is
good.  Tried three different rotors.  Changed out the dizzy plate to points,
still no spark.
>
> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket replacement
coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking
for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?
>
> Thanks, everyone.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
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Status: RO

Moss Motors has a video I think illustrates this test very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJYJ3KvPhhY 

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony
Rhodes
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 3:30 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil

Terry,

You can manually test the coil. Take the distributor ground wire off the
coil and place a jumper wire (well insulated)

Then apply power to the coil and then ground the wire and break  the ground.
Of course you need a spark gap tester on the coil output.  Keep yourself
insulated from BOTH the coil output wire and the ground wire.  Do you get a
spark coming from the coil?  Ideally you also have a condenser between the
ground terminal of the coil and ground, too, but you ought to see a spark
even without it.

If you don't get a good spark, then try the same test with a known good
coil.

Also remember the TR3 and Pertronix do not use ballast resistors so you
should be using a 12volt, about 3 ohm, coil.

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 13, 2014, at 1:48 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:48:51 +0000 (UTC)
> From: terryrs@comcast.net
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil
> Message-ID:
>
<1554084976.522424.1405252131431.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.c
o
mcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Took a four hour drive yesterday, temperature in the 80's, and neared 
> the
house when the TR3A stumbled briefly, then died altogether.  Got under the
hood and found no spark to the plugs.  Checked the voltage at the coil
positive terminal, and had that, so guessed it was either the coil itself or
the Pertrinox.  Wiring is solid core and connections are tight.  Dizzy cap
is good.  Tried three different rotors.  Changed out the dizzy plate to
points, still no spark.
>
> So, am in the market for a new coil.  This one is an aftermarket 
> replacement
coil.  Anybody heard anything about limited durability on these?  If looking
for dependability, are the Flame Throwers better?
>
> Thanks, everyone.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Coil
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---- Anthony Rhodes <spamiam@comcast.net> wrote: 
> Terry,
> 
> You can manually test the coil. Take the distributor ground wire off the coil
> and place a jumper wire (well insulated)

Normally, I am a strong advocate of testing components before replacing them.  But this test is incomplete, the coil may pass while still being defective (for example, an inter-winding short or broken laminations).  Coils are also much easier to change than most components.  So I feel that a better test is to simply substitute a "known good" coil.

If you don't happen to have a 3 ohm coil handy, chances are that you can buy a 1.5 ohm coil plus a ballast resistor at your friendly local auto parts store.  The combo will work fine for testing (I've actually driven for many years with an external ballast and a cheap 1.5 ohm coil).  I see that O'Reillys has a cheap coil listed for $20 and in stock at my local store; the ballast shouldn't be more than $10 or so (O'Reillys has it listed for $6).  (Both are listed for a 68 Dodge Dart with a 225 slant 6.)

Randall

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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 190
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Question!!!

 Are TR6 and GT6 steering rack and pinions assembles interchangeable?

THANKS,
Jody in Tallahassee

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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Jody007 wrote:
> Question!!!
>
>   Are TR6 and GT6 steering rack and pinions assembles interchangeable?

As I recall the main casting and rack are the same, the inner tie rods are different
and one has N teeth on the pinion, the other N + 1.

mjb.

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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 17:03:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission parts needed
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Status: RO

according to the guy who is rebuilding my tr6 transmission, the first/second 
and third/fourth synchro hub assemblies could use replacing, and moss does 
not carry them.

do I have to go to rimmers in england?  is there a supplier here in the us?

(this is an a type od unit which I'd like to keep.  I know there are 5 speed 
options, etc)

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From: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 20:25:52 -0400
References: <20140712005335.3FAKL.85341.root@cdptpa-web04>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Strange TR3 OD issue
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Status: RO

Found the problem

It was the relay.

Don't know why OD 2nd worked perfectly and 3/4 did not- can only assume the
3/4 ciruit was drawing more current but have no idea why

Works fine with the new relay

Thanks for all of the suggestions

Alex


On Jul 11, 2014, at 8:53 pm, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
>> The only thing I can think of that is common to third and fourth is that
they
>> use the same lockout switch, but I don't know why it would pop out at a
>> particular RPM EVERY time.
>
> Vibration sensitive?
>
> Probably my first step would be to connect a voltmeter/DMM to the OD relay,
and take a test ride.  If it shows that the relay drops out when the OD does,
you know it's an electrical issue.  Then change the connection so you can see
the lockout switch at work.  Again, if it drops out when the OD does, you've
found your culprit.
>
> Might not be the switch, but the wires/connections to it.  One of the Stags
would drop out for no apparent reason (although it was much more random) and
it turned out that the quick connect to the solenoid was very slightly loose.
Not loose enough to fall off, but loose enough to sometimes lose contact.  So,
if the above test does show the relay is not being grounded through the
lockout switch, the next test might be to remove the tunnel and repeat the
experiment with the meter connected directly to the terminals on the switch.
>
> Randall


1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
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---- Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net> wrote: 

> Works fine with the new relay

FWIW, I found that the relay lasts much longer if you add a suppression diode across the solenoid (from the relay output terminal to ground).  Before adding the diode, the relays were going intermittent within just a year or two, regardless of whether I used an expensive reproduction relay or a cheap automotive relay.  That has to be 20 years ago now, and the same cheap relay has been working fine ever since.

Too soon to say if it will help or not; but when the pull-in contacts inside the solenoid failed recently, I added a diode there, too.

These are just cheap 1N4004 diodes from Radio Shack.  A 3-pack is $1.50; I got 25 of them for $3.50.

Randall

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On Mon, 14 Jul 2014, at 5:03 PM, dave n wrote:

>
> according to the guy who is rebuilding my tr6 transmission, the first/second
> and third/fourth synchro hub assemblies could use replacing, and moss does
> not carry them.
>
> do I have to go to rimmers in england?  is there a supplier here in the us?
>
> (this is an a type od unit which I'd like to keep.  I know there are 5 speed
> options, etc)


TRF lists them.
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/index.php?menu=A&page=72

Call and see if they are in stock.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission parts needed
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Be careful what you buy as there are different synchro hubs. It depends on
 what dog teeth are on the gears. They are asymmetrical and symmetrical
dog teeth. Changed during the run of TR6 gearboxes. A good gearbox
rebuilder will know the difference.

Dean T.


On Jul 15, 2014, at 2:20 PM, Keith Stewart wrote:

> On Mon, 14 Jul 2014, at 5:03 PM, dave n wrote:
>
>>
>> according to the guy who is rebuilding my tr6 transmission, the
first/second
>> and third/fourth synchro hub assemblies could use replacing, and moss does
>> not carry them.
>>
>> do I have to go to rimmers in england?  is there a supplier here in the
us?
>>
>> (this is an a type od unit which I'd like to keep.  I know there are 5
speed
>> options, etc)
>
>
> TRF lists them.
> http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/index.php?menu=A&page=72
>
> Call and see if they are in stock.
>
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission parts needed
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List, 



What's led this mechanic to believe these two hubs need to be replaced? 



Just wondering. 





Ed Woods 

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 13:56:43 -0700
Thread-Index: AQMI9wxjrlW7WA0RzWG/+H/1O0vAl5ku75kg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission parts needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The beveled bit where the synchro ring rides can wear out, and then the ring
drags or can even get stuck, and you end up with fore/aft slop in the box.

Just did one a few weeks ago with that problem.  As far as I know, unless
you have some broken teeth, that's about all that can go wrong.

Is that what your rebuilder is saying?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <fogbro1@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <451682499.694796.1405456827267.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 16:17:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission parts needed
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"What's led this mechanic to believe these two hubs need to be replaced?"


he took the transmission apart and found that they were very worn.


a little history:

some years ago I purchased an od transmission.  it was in lousy shape -
grinding in multiple gears and popping out of 3rd.  I took it to a mechanic
that I had worked with for years, and trusted.  he took it apart and
supposedly fixed it.  it still ground occasionally when upshifting from 1st
to second and 2nd to 3rd.  It almost always ground when downshifting, and
always from 2nd to 1st.  I complained and he took it apart again, and
supposedly fixed it.  I don't know what he did, but it was no different.  I
complained, and he did it (or didn't do it) again.  at this point I wanted
my car back and just left it.  I am no longer working with said mechanic.

I figured there was something structurally wrong with that transmission, and
recently acquired another transmission (non od) for a very good price.  it
came out of a parts car, so condition etc were unknown.  as it turns out,
its in pretty good shape, but it, too has the same gear clusters worn.  my
goal was to take the od only out of the transmission I know was faulty, put
it in this one from the parts car, only taking the parts I absolutely
positively had to have, and nothing else, not wanting to taint this one.

I now think that its likely that problem may have been due to this worn
cluster gear which this mechanic should have replaced.  for whatever reason
he overlooked it.  multiple times.

this car is absolutely my favorite car, which I hope to keep forever.  and
my son is very interested in inheriting it.  so anything I do
with this car, I try to do for the long term.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 12:03:20 -0400
 FILETIME=[77511E60:01CFA10F]
Subject: [TR] LED Taillights
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Status: RO

There was a company peddling LED taillight bulbs at the VTR convention at
Jekyll Island some years ago.  Anybody remember their name?  They still in
business?





Thanks,



Marty

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 11:28:21 -0500
From: Irv Korey <emanteno@comcast.net>
To: marty <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] LED Taillights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.litezupp.com/

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
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References: <BLU168-W519FC8069BFA0C8E719DCFBAF70@phx.gbl>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 12:10:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] LED Taillights
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LitesZupp

http://www.litezupp.com/

they are here in the dallas/fort worth area

jim thompson   jimt@ieee.org

I have their lights on several cars.  really makes a difference; well worth 
it

-----Original Message----- 
From: marty
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2014 11:03 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] LED Taillights

There was a company peddling LED taillight bulbs at the VTR convention at
Jekyll Island some years ago.  Anybody remember their name?  They still in
business?





Thanks,

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 10:24:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+hGpb9jKlW9MaETUSxIuCPmtmjdw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] C3 Corvette Assistance
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If anybody knows anything about C3 Vettes, please contact me offline at
jpaynepbr@cox.net .

I am helping to move one along for a friend.

Thanks,

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 21:44:30 +0000 (UTC)
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Subject: [TR] TR3A Coil
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Status: RO

Thank you, everyone, for your replies to my coil issue.  Did pick up a Bosch (lite) blue 3 ohm coil and installed it today.  Car started right up and beautiful hot spark!

Especially appreciate the link that I think Bob? sent from Amazon.  

Now a generic question I've wondered about:  would a 1.5 ohm coil run a cold engine temporarily before shutting down?  Or would it simply not run at all?

Again, thank you all.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire, where rain the last couple of days meant I missed no summer driving time....

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 17:47:29 -0500
From: Roger Elliott <elliottr@rmi.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.16.1405360803.13449.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <8D16DC4E376AB96-3098-178E1@webmail-m211.sysops.aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 7, Issue 190 [rack and pinion]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Rimmer Brothers lists the same steering rack for both TR6 and GT6 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-306830

Though the parts manuals I have indicate numbers  TR6-  306830 and GT6  
307831.

I don't know about the inner tie rods.

Roger Elliott
On 7/14/2014 5:04 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Jody007 wrote:
>> Question!!!
>>
>>   Are TR6 and GT6 steering rack and pinions assembles interchangeable?
>
> As I recall the main casting and rack are the same, the inner tie rods 
> are different
> and one has N teeth on the pinion, the other N + 1.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 16:56:09 -0700
References: <1829136326.568571.1405547070656.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Coil
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On Jul 16, 2014, at 2:44 PM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:

> Now a generic question I've wondered about:  would a 1.5 ohm coil run a cold engine temporarily before shutting down?  Or would it simply not run at all?

If your low-tension ignition circuit can handle the extra current (twice what it would see with a 3 ohm coil), then it should run.  It will also generate more voltage on the high-tension side, which could cause problems, too.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 21:27:11 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Got my gearbox put back together tonight...as I was putting the seal
in the front housing, I noticed that the flange between the seal and
the housing had a crack in it.  I dont' know if it was there already
(I didn't see it when I cleaned it) or if I put it there while
knocking the seal into the housing...

See http://fishplate.org/vehicles/tr6/gearbox/gearbox_seal.jpg

I'm not sure what function that flange performs, but I can imagine the
destruction if it broke off.  Anyone got a good used front seal
housing for a late TR6 gearbox?

TIA,
Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 20:30:09 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+hPyHaVzupO1jhQiyKYTsNnCSOQwALgwvA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Coil
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Status: RO

> Now a generic question I've wondered about:  would a 1.5 ohm 
> coil run a cold engine temporarily before shutting down?  Or 
> would it simply not run at all?

Nope, runs fine for awhile.  ISTR it was several hours before the point rubbing block melted.

And I disagree with Darrell, it won't generate any more output unless your battery voltage is way down or you are running at high
rpm.  Once the core saturates, the excess current just gets wasted as heat.

As I've mentioned before, a ballast resistor is reasonably cheap at any FLAPS.  If you need to use a 1.5 ohm coil for whatever
reason, just stick a resistor in series with it.  If they insist on knowing the application, tell them it's for a 68 Dodge Dart with
a 225 slant six.  RockAuto has them for a whopping $2.50 <g>

Randall

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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 20:49:28 -0700
References: <54.0B.11986.C3347C35@cdptpa-oedge03>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Coil
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Status: RO

On Jul 16, 2014, at 8:30 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> And I disagree with Darrell, it won't generate any more output unless your
battery voltage is way down or you are running at high
> rpm.  Once the core saturates, the excess current just gets wasted as heat.

You are right.  Ive just been looking at coils a lot lately, and the lower
resistance ones tend to be rated at a higher output voltage.  But thats a
function of other characteristics of the coil.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 21:30:20 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> As I've mentioned before, a ballast resistor is reasonably cheap at any
> FLAPS.  If you need to use a 1.5 ohm coil for whatever
> reason, just stick a resistor in series with it.  If they insist on
> knowing the application, tell them it's for a 68 Dodge Dart with
> a 225 slant six.  RockAuto has them for a whopping $2.50
>

Free to good home, yours for the price of postage:

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/BallastResistor.jpg

Though it may be cheaper to buy local.

Geo

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 08:54:04 -0400
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Subject: [TR] Tough Clutch - second attempt
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Status: RO

Lists:  attached is a question from a friend who owns a TR6 and is having
issues.  Since I am temporarily devoid of a 6-cylinder at present (J), I
couldn't go take a look. Does anyone out there have any suggestions?

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

 

Hi Andrew,

 

Year before last we did a lot of work on the clutch to my TR-6.

 

New slave, new master, new fly wheel new clutch, just about everything.

 

The clutch still works hard. Works fine but a lot of pressure is required to
depress clutch pedal. Nothing near to what it was like before all my clutch
problems.

 

The pedal might move easier if I could get some grease in the bushing. Is
there an easy way to do that or does it have to be dismantled?

 

Any other thoughts? Will it possibly loosen up with use?

 

Thanks for any thoughts or help you or the group might have.

 

Walt

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 14:31:17 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: auprichard@uprichard.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tough Cutch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Andrew,

In my experience pedal effort is mostly a function of the pressure
plate you use so he's likely stuck with it unless you change the
plate.

 The linkage geometry can affect it, but if you used the same parts
for that then that shouldn't have changed.  Which hole on the lever
you put the slave cylinder rod into will change the throw and effort.
You can go to the whole farthest out from the pivot to get the lowest
effort but you'll have to push the pedal further.  There are three
holes on a TR4A, and I think the TR6 is the same.  The lowest hole
gives the most mechanical advantage but if the travel isn't enough you
may not be able to fully release the clutch.

Ben....

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 12:44:10 -0700
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 weather seals
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

was looking at photos of TR3's that i had taken to refresh my memory of
finishing parts.

there is a rigid dogleg shape piece of weatherstrip that
goes up the A pillar. its rigid, carpeted and has a flocked bulb seal that
seals up against the door.

on the B pillar there is a flocked bulb seal that
tacks onto the fiber filling inside the B pillar. 

any ideas on where these
are available?
don't see them on moss, vic brit or macy's. the roadster
factory describes them differently.

thanks
Frank

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From: Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 16:58:12 -0400
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lucas bulbs
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Status: RO

Anyone know where to get replacement bulbs for my Lucas 545 driving lights?

Moss says they don't have them and don't know when they will

Can't find them anywhere else.

Wouldn't mind getting some higher quality ones ...

Thanks

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 19:33:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: carroll phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [TR] late TR3 A  rear clip needed
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Need a good rear body clip ( or parts car ) from the B posts back for a
TR3AB  ( late 1960 which has the squared rear shelf for seat)) . Ours
took a bad hit some time in its racing life. Now doing a total resto and
find it was beyond getting right from previous botched repairs (really
was that bad).B  Any help or leads would be greatly appreciated. Located
in Orange Co. New York, would prefer no to travelB  too far ( lower east
coast to mid west).
Trying to save another one,
Carroll

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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 00:32:49 -0400
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Alexander Delis" <ols@bcdef.net>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulbs
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Status: RO

You didnt state the lamp part number, but you might find them here.
http://jollyrogersmotors.com/catalog/99


Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Anyone know where to get replacement bulbs for my Lucas 545 driving
> lights?
>
> Moss says they don't have them and don't know when they will
>
> Can't find them anywhere else.
>
> Wouldn't mind getting some higher quality ones ...
>
> Thanks
>
> Alex
>
> 1958 TR3 TS33884LO
> 1968 GT6 KC10303

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Alexander Delis'" <ols@bcdef.net>, "'Triumph List'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 08:03:13 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulbs
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Status: RO

> Anyone know where to get replacement bulbs for my Lucas 545 
> driving lights?

Are you sure that's the right Lucas model number?  The only listing for Lucas 545 lights that I could find was for "side lamps" (or
possibly combination side and turn).

A photo of the bulb might help, if you can't find the bulb number.  Lucas had their own numbering scheme, but replacements are
usually available from various LBC suppliers if you know what you need.

Randall

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 10:28:57 -0500
To: Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

A typical vintage Lucas "driving light" -- say a SLR576, the kind with a
long pencil beam and a plain glass front lens-- will take a 48W BPF
(British Pre Focus) bulb with an axial filament.  The filament is in the
line of travel of the beam.  Lucas bulb number 185 (12V).

A Lucas fog light of the period  -- say a SFT576, the kind with a flat wide
beam and a fluted glass front lens -- will take a bulb with the same
wattage and base, but the filament will be transverse -- crosswise the the
direction of travel of the beam.  Lucas bulb number 323 (12V).

Here's an image to make that clearer (it is kind of confusing).
 Driving/pencil beam on the left, fog on the right.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-B4jpFST/0/L/i-B4jpFST-L.jpg

People will sometims mix up the bulbs for the lamp style.  They'll still
put out light, of course, but it won't be as well-controlled.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Thu, Jul 17, 2014 at 3:58 PM, Alexander Delis <ols@bcdef.net> wrote:

> Anyone know where to get replacement bulbs for my Lucas 545 driving lights?
>
> Moss says they don't have them and don't know when they will
>
> Can't find them anywhere else.
>
> Wouldn't mind getting some higher quality ones ...
>
> Thanks
>
> Alex
>
> 1958 TR3 TS33884LO
> 1968 GT6 KC10303
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 20:57:44 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+inQvilYzgSsMRRbCJ/skcu/4H8AAZ5aog
Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

> A typical vintage Lucas "driving light" -- say a SLR576, the 
> kind with a
> long pencil beam and a plain glass front lens-- will take a 48W BPF
> (British Pre Focus) bulb with an axial filament.  The 
> filament is in the
> line of travel of the beam.  Lucas bulb number 185 (12V).

While I'm sure Don is right about "typical", I thought it interesting that the Lucas 400e Master Catalog shows quite a few different
bulbs for various part numbers of SLR576, including the 323 transverse filament and 685 which is an amber axial filament.  And
that's only for 12 volts, the SLR576 was also available in 6 volt and 24 volt versions.

The SFT576 fog lamps had even more options, including some dual filament bulbs.

I couldn't find anyone in the US that claims to stock the 185 bulb at a reasonable price; but I sent Alex some links to Holden &
MGOC in the UK, who have them listed.  Holden actually lists a halogen substitute (with the same base), MGOC doesn't say.

Canley shows them as "out of stock, available to order", which might mean they expect to get more (or not).

Randall

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From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:15:07 -0500
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

NFI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Other-Roadster-1962-TR4-ORIGINAL-CA-CAR-RUST-FREE-RESTORED-ORIGINAL-DETAILED-HISTORY-/321465220384?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4ad8d1fd20&item=321465220384&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:28:00 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] New Bosch Coil
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Tested the new (lite) blue Bosch coil with a screwdriver to number 3 cylinder grounded against the valve cover.

Couldn't see any spark.  

...Uhm...that was because I dropped the screwdriver when the shock jolted all the way through the screwdriver's insulated handle.

I decided a visual wasn't necessary.

Is there value in widening the plug gap?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire 

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To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:28:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Never thought I'd say this in the same sentence, but, $17,999 for a TR4, 
doesn't look like too bad a deal, pretty car.   I remember when people were 
restoring TR2s and 3s, and showing their well cared for or refurbished TR6s, 
and TR4s and 4As, particularly nice ones, were nowhere to be found.  The 
cars were underappreciated, pretty sure that has all changed, and rightfully 
so in my opinion.

Greg Lemon 

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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] New Bosch Coil
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terryrs@comcast.net wrote:

> Is there value in widening the plug gap?

For points systems I stick with 25, go to 35 - 40 for electronic.

mjb.

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:08:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'll offer some comments (if that is what you seek):

Seller says "*Since the entire car received a "complete" re-paint it does
not appear as if any partial painting has been done*" but the paint job is
not really complete, having omitted the engine bay and boot.  This begs the
question, What was the original color of the car?  At a minimum one would
want to see some photos of the car prior to the respray to assure oneself
that the car was as rust free as claimed.

Seller says "*Simply stated, the interior is in excellent original /
condition having received improvements and cosmetic attention as needed*"
but the interior is clearly not original nor as original.  Perhaps those
are Triumph seats, but not TR4 seats.  The original carpet would have been
grey.  The rear upholstery is a replacement, possibly not correctly
attached or possibly missing some parts.  I think these generally had white
piping on the black interior.

Statement that it is the "* - Original jack...   - Original jack handle*"
is incorrect, this car would have had a screw jack that fits through the
hole in the floorboard (similar to a TR3).  Also appears a plain sheet of
plywood has been substituted for the tire compartment lid.

Note that buyers outside of California get to pay a $195 processing fee.

None of this is to say this isn't a good car or worth something like the
asking price -- but one would want to look beyond the sellers claims and
judge the car for itself.  At a minimum, deviations from what is claimed
can be bargaining items should the sale come to that.

Best of luck,

Geo










On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 11:15 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:

> NFI.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Other-Roadster-1962-TR4-ORIGINAL-CA-CAR-RUST-FREE-RESTORED-ORIGINAL-DETAILED-HISTORY-/321465220384?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4ad8d1fd20&item=321465220384&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:10:55 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] New Bosch Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 11:28 AM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

>
> ...Uhm...that was because I dropped the screwdriver when the shock jolted
> all the way through the screwdriver's insulated handle.
>


This is why you want to have your mother-in-law or perhaps a kid brother
hold the screwdriver.

You can then assess the quality of spark based on how high they jump.

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 20:53:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

I've decided to pay more attention to the spare parts I carry.  And since archives are down, does anyone know the number of the fawcett fuel pump that works on TR3's.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 14:15:24 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+jjYHGCHaCUAjBT8i2YdvKR/OwpwABfBsw
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
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Status: RO

> None of this is to say this isn't a good car or worth 
> something like the
> asking price -- but one would want to look beyond the sellers 
> claims and
> judge the car for itself.  

Remember, this is basically a used car dealer.  Not necessarily dishonest, but they have to buy cheap and sell dear or they can't
stay in business.  The $195 "out of state" fee seems bogus to me as well.

I'm guessing the ammeter never shows charge, as it appears the alternator is wired directly to the battery.

Also a question for those more familiar with early TR4 than I am : Shouldn't the starter solenoid be up on the shelf, where it can
be reached easily?  In the photos, I don't see how you'd get your finger on the rubber button.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 15:18:48 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Also a question for those more familiar with early TR4 than I am :
> Shouldn't the starter solenoid be up on the shelf, where it can
> be reached easily?  In the photos, I don't see how you'd get your finger
> on the rubber button.
>


My recollection is that early TR4s had the button down there on the engine
and at some point in production STC moved it to the shelf due to heat
related problems -- so this one is possibly correct.

Geo

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 17:11:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Peter <pfullam@nycap.rr.com>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Somebody buy this (and stop me from thinking about it)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes, that is what I meant.  I said 'on the engine' but looking at mine a
few minutes ago it is indeed on the firewall near the engine (and not
nearly as conveniently placed as the TR3's).


On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 4:17 PM, Peter <pfullam@nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> My TR4 is an early'63. The starter solenoid is down on the front corner of
> the passenger foot well. You have to reach down under the rear carburetor
> to
> get to it.
>
> PeteF

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:30:48 -0600
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1562382705.599230.1405803216474.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Fawcett Electric Fuel Pump
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> I've decided to pay more attention to the spare parts I carry.  And since archives are down

Well, sort of.  The archives ( link below for the real time folks ) are there and working.
The current problem is that the data has not been updated for many months.  I'm working on
it at the moment, hope to make some good progress this evening.

A lot of folks rely on the archives, I feel badly about them not working properly.

mjb.

ps: I did get 264 hits when searching for "facet"

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: dave@ranteer.com
Subject: Re: [TR] New Bosch Coil
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+1

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [TR] New Bosch Coil
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Date: 2014 7 19 2:18 PM
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
CC:

terryrs@comcast.net wrote:

> Is there value in widening the plug gap?

For points systems I stick with 25, go to 35 - 40 for electronic.

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