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Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2014 17:01:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Peglow <rpeglow@optonline.net>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.16.1414864804.13057.triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] grommet woes
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B 
> To: Andrew Uprichard ,

Harbor Freight Part # 67582 180 piece grommet set.

Regards,
Bob
B B 
B 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  1 15:14:39 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bob Peglow'" <rpeglow@optonline.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 14:14:54 -0700
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Subject: Re: [TR] grommet woes
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> Harbor Freight Part # 67582 180 piece grommet set.

Only problem; most of the original grommets on a TR3 were "webbed", meaning there is a flexible filler panel in the middle of the
grommet.  This helps seal against air and water.  Moss, TRF et al offer reproductions of those original grommets, but most other
sources (including HF) do not.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  2 11:35:53 2014
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Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2014 18:36:21 +0000 (UTC)
From: fogbro1@comcast.net
To: "list, triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Spitfire w/ J type o/d
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Subject: [TR] Spitfire w/ J type o/d
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List,
B 
It appears that the top cover/shift mechanism on the late Spitfire 1500
w/overdrive has many components differing from the non overdrive unit. I have
been unable to find assembly info in any of the manuals I have. Does anyone
know of a manual that covers this unit, disassembly and assembly? The only
documentation I can find is in the Moss Spitfire catalog which shows the
components, but not how they're assembled.
B 
TIA,
B 
Ed Woods

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  2 16:38:09 2014
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Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2014 18:33:25 -0500
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: fogbro1@comcast.net, "list, triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <783140673.9203601.1414953381007.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire w/ J type o/d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The Haynes manual for the spit does at least show a couple photos of 
that extra linkage element you are talking about
(both held with little square headed 'pin' bolts.
The biggest pain is lining up the shuttle with all the pins located 
correctly before placing the keeper plate back in place.
take lots of pictures ...shifted in different positions/orientations so 
you can see how it all works.
After you play with it for awhile and see how it actually is 
working....then when you get the top plate and shaft out, you can still 
sift with the lower half of that lever to further understand the shuttle 
and pins.
It's a tad confusing at first but not really all that hard to figure out.

again...take LOTS of pics to see how it should look when you put it back 
together

ptegler


On 11/2/2014 1:36 PM, fogbro1@comcast.net wrote:
> List,
> B
> It appears that the top cover/shift mechanism on the late Spitfire 1500
> w/overdrive has many components differing from the non overdrive unit. I have
> been unable to find assembly info in any of the manuals I have. Does anyone
> know of a manual that covers this unit, disassembly and assembly? The only
> documentation I can find is in the Moss Spitfire catalog which shows the
> components, but not how they're assembled.
> B
> TIA,
> B
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net
>

-- 
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 08:20:51 2014
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From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 09:18:48 -0600
References: <1B9AEBF21695EA4B983355F93B5334830141FAA786@COLHEXMB01.corp.timken.com>
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't get
there to inspect it.

http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html

Thanks,
Bill

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 08:35:29 2014
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Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2014 06:29:50 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
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TR folks,
  I have 3 Triumphs for sale. All are project cars in varying stages of 
repair or disrepair depending on your outlook.
  Two are GT6's a 67 and a 68. The third is a TR4A a 67 I believe.
If you might be interested drop a line or call me. Heck, yes I have a 
financial interest...
Dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 08:49:48 2014
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To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>,  "<triumphs@autox.team.net>"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B9AEBF21695EA4B983355F93B5334830141FAA786@COLHEXMB01.corp.timken.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
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Bill,

I am no where near Omaha, but I did look at the photos and if what the 
owner says is true, it looks like a good buy. But an inspection is a 
good idea.

Bob in Central NY

On 11/04/2014 10:18 AM, Wbeech@flash.net wrote:
> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't get
> there to inspect it.
>
> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> *

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 10:34:22 2014
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 <F3250914-235A-46D2-B655-3A822EFDE468@flash.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 10:31:21 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That could be a good one if it checks out.

Seller says "Great Restoration Project" but I'd rather hope someone would
get it and use it as a rough & ready driver.

If so much is original (as stated) it would almost be a shame to see it
become yet another restoration.

Geo

On Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 8:18 AM, Wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't
> get
> there to inspect it.
>
> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 <F3250914-235A-46D2-B655-3A822EFDE468@flash.net>
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 11:52:09 -0600
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That car (TCF632L) looks as good or better than mine did when I bought my
3B... in 1981.

Price seems reasonable.  I'm sure it'll find a new home.  Will it stay that
unrestored?  Hard to say, but increasingly unlikely as sidescreen values go
up on the world market.

On Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:

> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't
> get
> there to inspect it.
>
> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>, "<triumphs@autox.team.net>"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B9AEBF21695EA4B983355F93B5334830141FAA786@COLHEXMB01.corp.timken.com>
 <BTQE1p00R0NyJgq01TQFxE>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 12:09:02 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill, I live in Iowa but work in Omaha.  Own a TR7, had a GT6 and a Spitfire 
briefly.  No experience on the TR3.  And I can't say I've ever seen it at 
any of our local club events.  If you need someone to check it out I could.

Gerry

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 9:18 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale


> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't 
> get
> there to inspect it.
>
> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trseven@cox.net 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 13:36:14 -0500
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Looks like it was crunched in the back end at one time....   Rough and
> ready driver is my vote, too!!!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 19:24:54 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>, "<triumphs@autox.team.net>"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B9AEBF21695EA4B983355F93B5334830141FAA786@COLHEXMB01.corp.timken.com>
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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 20:11:26 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Gerry, didn't know you were lurking on there on the list, I was going to say 
I live about an hour away, but I know there are a few Triumph heads in my 
club in Omaha that I could try to contact.  I noticed the car last night on 
CL, guess I am not the only one who spends too much time looking at cars on 
the internet.  If it is truly rust free that is always half the battle, I 
don't think I have seen the car before either.

Greg Lemon, Lincoln, NE
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 12:09 PM
To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>; "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" 
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale

> Bill, I live in Iowa but work in Omaha.  Own a TR7, had a GT6 and a 
> Spitfire briefly.  No experience on the TR3.  And I can't say I've ever 
> seen it at any of our local club events.  If you need someone to check it 
> out I could.
>
> Gerry
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
> To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 9:18 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale
>
>
>> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't 
>> get
>> there to inspect it.
>>
>> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trseven@cox.net
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov  4 20:53:56 2014
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From: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, "<triumphs@autox.team.net>"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1B9AEBF21695EA4B983355F93B5334830141FAA786@COLHEXMB01.corp.timken.com>
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Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2014 21:47:31 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, long time lurker!  Always glad to help! Especially if it involves old 
Triumphs!

Gerry
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>; "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" 
<Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale


> Gerry, didn't know you were lurking on there on the list, I was going to 
> say I live about an hour away, but I know there are a few Triumph heads in 
> my club in Omaha that I could try to contact.  I noticed the car last 
> night on CL, guess I am not the only one who spends too much time looking 
> at cars on the internet.  If it is truly rust free that is always half the 
> battle, I don't think I have seen the car before either.
>
> Greg Lemon, Lincoln, NE
> TR250
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Gerry C" <trseven@cox.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 12:09 PM
> To: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>; "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" 
> <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 for sale
>
>> Bill, I live in Iowa but work in Omaha.  Own a TR7, had a GT6 and a 
>> Spitfire briefly.  No experience on the TR3.  And I can't say I've ever 
>> seen it at any of our local club events.  If you need someone to check it 
>> out I could.
>>
>> Gerry
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
>> To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 9:18 AM
>> Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale
>>
>>
>>> Anyone know this car in Omaha?  Have friend that is interested but can't 
>>> get
>>> there to inspect it.
>>>
>>> http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4740646602.html
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trseven@cox.net
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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References: <CAO8Q7CMAGnf_M_WfangaJn=r7ts=vvq8fagDc43O1t-eDpExew@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2014 12:52:09 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, my speedometer is next on the list of things to be fettled...it
> bounces around quite a bit.

For the record - I replaced just the upper cable, and that fixed the
problem.  Speedometer is rock-steady now.

The upper cable, even in stock length, seems to have a lot of twist in
it, as if it's an inch or two longer than it should be.  I suppose
that contributes to the problem...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  5 16:55:58 2014
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Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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>The upper cable, even in stock length, seems to have a lot of twist in
>it, as if it's an inch or two longer than it should be.  I suppose
>that contributes to the problem...

Have to replace my TR3A speedometer cable.  I seem to remember that it's advised to snip a bit off the speedo end.  Was that a quarter inch?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3a
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov  5 19:08:05 2014
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 1:45:05 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 1:45:05 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote: 
> Have to replace my TR3A speedometer cable.  I seem to remember that it's advised to snip a bit off the speedo end.  Was that a quarter inch?

Check how much the end of the cable protrudes out of the housing (not the nut) with the inner cable pushed in as far as it will go.  It should be no more than 3/8".  If more, you need to trim it.

Otherwise, I wouldn't bother.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 06:41:00 2014
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 06:29:12 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 6:45 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Check how much the end of the cable protrudes out of the housing (not the
> nut) with the inner cable pushed in as far as it will go.  It should be no
> more than 3/8".  If more, you need to trim it.
>


I'll add - when I cut a speedo cable I use an angle grinder -- never a
hacksaw or such -- you want to preserve the wrap of the individual wires.
For just a small adjustment you could probably just dress the end on a
grinder but take it slow.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 07:40:54 2014
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Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2014 05:27:15 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>,  "Triumphs
 (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1139272719.89952.1415230474857.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm lucky to have MO-MA only a few minutes from my shop and I'm in there 
quite often. Joey, the long time employee of Margaret's, who is now the 
new owner after her passing said to me when I showed up with a hand full 
of broken angle drives that "we don't fix them much anymore" "Moss sells 
them now"
  Anyway, I had him cut some stock cable and hammer the square end (with 
an old hammer press jig) and what he does is cut the cable with plain 
dikes then dress the end on a bench grinder to give the very shallow 
angled point.
  George's method is fine too.
Dave
On 11/6/2014 6:29 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 6:45 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Check how much the end of the cable protrudes out of the housing (not the
>> nut) with the inner cable pushed in as far as it will go.  It should be no
>> more than 3/8".  If more, you need to trim it.
>>
>
> I'll add - when I cut a speedo cable I use an angle grinder -- never a
> hacksaw or such -- you want to preserve the wrap of the individual wires.
> For just a small adjustment you could probably just dress the end on a
> grinder but take it slow.
>
> Geo
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 14:03:32 2014
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: "'Geo Hahn'" <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1139272719.89952.1415230474857.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
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Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2014 12:42:13 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable
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I thought about using a T-Handle from a tap set as a guide/vise, but in the
end I just added a few small washers inside the nut. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo
Hahn
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2014 5:29 AM
To: Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)
Subject: Re: [TR] Speedometer Cable

On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 6:45 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Check how much the end of the cable protrudes out of the housing (not 
> the
> nut) with the inner cable pushed in as far as it will go.  It should 
> be no more than 3/8".  If more, you need to trim it.
>


I'll add - when I cut a speedo cable I use an angle grinder -- never a
hacksaw or such -- you want to preserve the wrap of the individual wires.
For just a small adjustment you could probably just dress the end on a
grinder but take it slow.

Geo

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov  6 16:35:02 2014
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Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2014 14:20:35 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] '67 TR4A IRS For Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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This is a project car, but a good one. The previous owner started with 
body off work on chassis. New trailing arms, springs, u-joints, etc. 
Front end, has new shocks, and some bushings done? Looks OK. All clean, 
no rust.
Engine is rebuilt, new distributor, master cylinders, tires. body panels 
have been replaced with "better than before" versions, so it's a multi 
colored car. It needs to have the body and paint done and the upholstery 
and trim finished for what should be a pretty nice finished product.
  I also have a truck load of the "other" fenders, doors, bonnet & boot 
lids, which can go as a package deal or sold separately to anyone 
needing usable body pieces.
  This is not my car. It does have a CA title and the black plate to go 
with it. I spoken with a few other shops and owners and know that as a 
project it isn't terribly valuable, nevertheless the owner isn't quite 
ready to "give" it away. SO... make an offer, make a fair offer and 
we'll see if this customer will accept it.
  Contact me off list. I have a few pictures to send.
Dave
PS, the only reason I do this for customers is because I simply don't 
have the room or will to store their stuff either after they have it 
towed in..;-)
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 12:30:09 -0500
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lost on I-70 in eastern OH?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I just passed what looked (maybe.. I didn't stop) a fiberglass
one-piece nose in grey gelcoat/primer, apparently a lost load in the
median of I-70 WB at mile 145.  Looked like it coulda been GT6, or
maybe MGB. If anyone here's missin' one...

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 18:02:01 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20141106014505.R2ZRC.121181.root@cdptpa-web03>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: TR3 Cam Timing
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Cam Timing
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Morning, everyone.  

I have no idea why, but the scribe marks on the original? cam and crank sprockets are missing.  I've looked close, believe me.

I'm at the point to reinstall, since they chain and gears seem fine, but am unsure how to set the chain without them.  One thing I've read is to have both #1 and #4 at TDC, the crank key facing down, and check elevation of the lift rods.  Then what?

I can always buy new, I suppose, but ISTR that people were disgrunted with quality of aftermarkets?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20141106014505.R2ZRC.121181.root@cdptpa-web03>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: TR3 cam timing
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Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 cam timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

BTW, the punch mark on the cam and the cam sprocket are aligned at 11 o'clock.  The punch marks, at least, have survived.  

So, at TDC, crank keys down, punch marks aligned, I think I'm good. ???

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 12:37:33 -0800
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

    I was pumping up my brakes after the car was sitting for 10 years and I couldn't get the front brakes to work. Disconnecting the hose, it would expand but not pass fluid when pressurized. Guess they need to be changed every 50 years or so!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Wbeech@flash.net" <wbeech@flash.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 15:16:42 -0600
References: <1415392653.41641.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
To: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, 50 years is about life for the rubber lines.  I got the SS braided ones
from TRF, fit like the originals.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Nov 7, 2014, at 2:37 PM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

   I was pumping up my brakes after the car was sitting for 10 years and I
couldn't get the front brakes to work. Disconnecting the hose, it would expand
but not pass fluid when pressurized. Guess they need to be changed every 50
years or so!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@flash.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  7 15:30:04 2014
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 22:04:06 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 22:04:06 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 cam timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Personally, I dislike trusting witness marks if I didn't make them (or otherwise verify that they are accurate).  Everyone makes a mistake sometimes, and the factory was no exception.

So, I would first establish an accurate TDC using a piston stop or similar.  Maybe your eyes are better than mine, but I can't reliably see a 1 degree error in the slot being "downwards".

---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote: 
> BTW, the punch mark on the cam and the cam sprocket are aligned at 11 o'clock.  The punch marks, at least, have survived.  
> 
> So, at TDC, crank keys down, punch marks aligned, I think I'm good. ???
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver@ca.rr.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2014 17:10:47 -0500
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like a good time to buy our stainless hoses. Commercial over. Ted


On 11/7/2014 3:37 PM, JOSEPH MATO wrote:
>      I was pumping up my brakes after the car was sitting for 10 years and I couldn't get the front brakes to work. Disconnecting the hose, it would expand but not pass fluid when pressurized. Guess they need to be changed every 50 years or so!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx@bright.net
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx@bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  7 16:59:43 2014
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Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 23:36:56 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 23:36:56 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

---- Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx@bright.net> wrote: 
> Sounds like a good time to buy our stainless hoses. Commercial over. Ted

I've certainly been happy with them.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  7 18:29:38 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <20141107220406.ZMN4F.157172.root@cdptpa-web03>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 19:14:04 -0600
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 cam timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Setting cam timing is an interesting process, if you haven't done it before 
it can be a little daunting, there are lots of instructions out there on the 
web and most any if them should be adequate,  HOWEVER,  I read through a 
bunch of them, some of them I thought were much harder to follow than 
others, and I also recall there is more than one method to doing it, and 
some made more sense to me than others as well,  anyway I read a bunch of 
the online instructions until I felt I had the theory down pretty good, then 
printed out the ones that seemed to make the most sense and had at it.  You 
can buy a degree wheel pretty cheap, or you can make one ever cheaper by 
printing one out found from an online search and then gluing it to some thin 
cardboard, and practicing your kindergarten skills by cutting out a circle 
along the lines.

After I did it I had another set of eyes come over to double check my work, 
the old carpenter's adage, measure twice, etc.

I will also add that I don't think it degreed out quite perfect on a 
particular sprocket, so I went with the closest one, don't know if this was 
normal, or because the cam was reground, or because my measurements were not 
100 percent precise.  Anyhow must have turned out OK.

If you don't build engines on a regular basis I think the recipe for success 
is to read the manual and online sources, go out and do the job, take a 
break, sleep on it, etc., come back and double check all work, then move on 
the the next step.  I am by no means the worlds best mechanic, but that is 
the method I have followed with the small number of motors I have rebuilt or 
substantially refurbished, and it has always turned out OK.

Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, November 7, 2014 4:04 PM
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 cam timing

> Personally, I dislike trusting witness marks if I didn't make them (or 
> otherwise verify that they are accurate).  Everyone makes a mistake 
> sometimes, and the factory was no exception.
>
> So, I would first establish an accurate TDC using a piston stop or 
> similar.  Maybe your eyes are better than mine, but I can't reliably see a 
> 1 degree error in the slot being "downwards".
>
> ---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>> BTW, the punch mark on the cam and the cam sprocket are aligned at 11 
>> o'clock.  The punch marks, at least, have survived.
>>
>> So, at TDC, crank keys down, punch marks aligned, I think I'm good. ???
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver@ca.rr.com
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov  7 23:01:25 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2014 21:37:26 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 cam timing
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> there are lots of instructions 
> out there on the web and most any if them should be adequate, 

Except that the TR3 motor (or more specifically it's camshaft) has a special property that makes it much easier to set or check
valve timing without the use of a degree wheel or dial indicator.  You can go through all that stuff with checking lift and so on if
you want; but I find the method given in the workshop manual to be a lot easier.  Plus, it only requires a set of feeler gauges and
some way to accurately find TDC.  If you have the cam cover and front pulley installed, the factory TDC mark will do.  If not, use a
piston stop and pencil marks on the flywheel (or similar).

And of course everything you read on the Internet is true.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 02:17:32 2014
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From: "David Greed" <david.greed@wave.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, <owner-stag@digest.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2014 21:58:45 +1300
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Subject: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi there

 

It has been a while since I have been looking at these lists, so please
forgive me if this question has been asked.

 

I have recently started driving my Stag again after a long period (5 years).

 

The overdrive is working, but only after the car has driven for about 10
kilometers or so. Once it kicks in the first time, it works perfectly from
thereon. The lock out switch was suspected, and the lucar connections to it
were loose, so these have been replaced, but the switch itself has tested
fine. I hope it is not some anomaly the switch, because it is a real pain to
get to. (dropping the gearbox mounting frame which means undoing the from
exhaust pipes.

 

My thinking is the gearbox oil and possibly the filters - thoughts?

 

 

DavidG

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 08:19:52 2014
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From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com>
To: "'JOSEPH MATO'" <joemato@sbcglobal.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1415392653.41641.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2014 09:01:26 -0600
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 FILETIME=[DBC29EA0:01CFFB64]
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I rebuilt a pair of TR6 front calipers just to find afterward that the hoses
were blocked.  Creig

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JOSEPH
MATO
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 2:38 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr-3 brake hoses

    I was pumping up my brakes after the car was sitting for 10 years and I
couldn't get the front brakes to work. Disconnecting the hose, it would
expand but not pass fluid when pressurized. Guess they need to be changed
every 50 years or so!

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 08:35:15 2014
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Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2014 06:11:33 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <042f01cffb32$346255b0$9d270110$@wave.co.nz>
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a bit of a guess. I'm thoroughly 'versed" on the early O/D's but 
over the years haven't had many opportunities to work on the J's. 
Anyway, I'm going to say that the long inactivity has degraded the oil, 
such that it is too viscose until it is warmed by the 10k of driving. 
The J has a relief valve which is "sensing" this condition and not 
engaging until the pressure drops. You may have used 80-90 gear oil in 
the gear box as well, exacerbating the problem . I'd drain both units  
and replace with 30wt non detergent or ATF or one of the modern 
specialist gearbox oils. Then see if the problem recurs.
Dave
PS You might contact Magnus Carlson over on the Healey list or Ted 
Schmacher on this list. They  may be more familiar with that J symptom

On 11/8/2014 1:58 AM, David Greed wrote:
> Hi there
>
>   
>
> It has been a while since I have been looking at these lists, so please
> forgive me if this question has been asked.
>
>   
>
> I have recently started driving my Stag again after a long period (5 years).
>
>   
>
> The overdrive is working, but only after the car has driven for about 10
> kilometers or so. Once it kicks in the first time, it works perfectly from
> thereon. The lock out switch was suspected, and the lucar connections to it
> were loose, so these have been replaced, but the switch itself has tested
> fine. I hope it is not some anomaly the switch, because it is a real pain to
> get to. (dropping the gearbox mounting frame which means undoing the from
> exhaust pipes.
>
>   
>
> My thinking is the gearbox oil and possibly the filters - thoughts?
>
>   
>
>   
>
> DavidG
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 09:34:43 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2014 08:13:47 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac/7ahJZ5ljwVj6uRgGSSpMc9O4g8QAAuXpA
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> The J has a relief valve which is "sensing" this condition and not 
> engaging until the pressure drops. 

Doesn't work that way.  The "relief" valve regulates the pressure by relieving any excess back to the sump.  It is normally slightly
open all the time and only varies how much to keep the desired pressure; either around 20 psi when idle or 550 psi when operating.

> You may have used 80-90 
> gear oil in 
> the gear box as well, exacerbating the problem .

Just to be clear about this, 90 weight GL5 gear oil is the factory-recommended fill for temperatures above -10C.  For temperatures
below +10C they allow 80W GL5 gear oil.  So 80W90 should be perfect in all temperatures (since the 80W rating is for 0C and the 90
part is for 100C).

> I'd drain  both units  
> and replace with 30wt non detergent

Which would actually be thicker at the same temperature than 80W gear oil; plus not have the additives to protect the gear faces.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 10:05:05 2014
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Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2014 07:45:30 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <E4.03.12271.B314E545@cdptpa-oedge02>
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
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I'll defer to Randall, since he seems to know. I will say I recall when 
the Factory sent a team of engineers to this Country and our shop (one 
day) to determine why so many gear boxes were failing.. They 
consequently discontinued the use of gear oil in the boxes. problem 
fixed. Just saying Randall.
Dave
On 11/8/2014 9:13 AM, Randall wrote:
>> The J has a relief valve which is "sensing" this condition and not
>> engaging until the pressure drops.
> Doesn't work that way.  The "relief" valve regulates the pressure by relieving any excess back to the sump.  It is normally slightly
> open all the time and only varies how much to keep the desired pressure; either around 20 psi when idle or 550 psi when operating.
>
>> You may have used 80-90
>> gear oil in
>> the gear box as well, exacerbating the problem .
> Just to be clear about this, 90 weight GL5 gear oil is the factory-recommended fill for temperatures above -10C.  For temperatures
> below +10C they allow 80W GL5 gear oil.  So 80W90 should be perfect in all temperatures (since the 80W rating is for 0C and the 90
> part is for 100C).
>
>> I'd drain  both units
>> and replace with 30wt non detergent
> Which would actually be thicker at the same temperature than 80W gear oil; plus not have the additives to protect the gear faces.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 10:35:09 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2014 09:10:02 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac/7dtVOdQHUL/16RYWPsEnh0i+H+w==
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 cam timing
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> Question:  how many degrees on the cam or the crank would one 
> tooth make?  Anybody know offhand?

ISTR a 1/4 tooth adjustment (the smallest possible) is about 4 degrees, so a full tooth should be about 16 degrees.  That can't be
exactly right, but should be close.  To get the right number, count the teeth on the crank sprocket (since we're talking crank
degrees) and divide 360 by the number of teeth.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov  8 15:22:20 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2014 13:57:40 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac/7ivFVAlPb84/YRmmnJMcbJ/e95gAEkeTw
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> A much renowned small British oil producer and distributor 
> recommended 80W90 
> GL4 gear oil for my TR but recommended 20W50 engine oil for my MGB.
> Work that one out if you can!

Which overdrives?  They aren't all the same.  The J-type pretty much didn't care, it would run in whatever the gearbox maker
specified.  Probably work fine with sperm oil! <g>

For the A-type, Laycock always said to use non-detergent motor oil.  Standard-Triumph started out saying "whatever", then switched
to the Laycock recommendation, then around 1960 switched back to only GL4 gear oil (GL5 didn't exist back then).  The story as I
heard it (from an old dealer mechanic who got it from an old factory engineer) was that they felt they had fewer (warranty) failures
overall using gear oil, even though that was opposite the Laycock recommendation.

But, AFAIK, MGB never had the A-type.  And evidently, their gearbox held up OK with motor oil, so that's what they used.

The important point, I feel, is that neither type of oil is going to cause instant overdrive malfunction.  If it doesn't work at
all, there is something else wrong.  It's possible that using the wrong oil might make it wear out faster, or more apt to break
thrust washers or whatever; but changing oil isn't going to fix those problems once they have happened.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales@virgin.net>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <E9.13.12271.3D19E545@cdptpa-oedge02>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 01:46:46 -0000
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Randall,

In an earlier post on this thread I said I had a non working overdrive after 
a gearbox oil change.
This was in fact on an MGB I owned where I put in SAE 80W90 in error.
Drained and changed to the correct grade of SAE 20W50 and the overdrive 
worked again.
I can only speak of a personal experience.

Regards,
Adrian

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity


>> A much renowned small British oil producer and distributor
>> recommended 80W90
>> GL4 gear oil for my TR but recommended 20W50 engine oil for my MGB.
>> Work that one out if you can!
>
> Which overdrives?  They aren't all the same.  The J-type pretty much 
> didn't care, it would run in whatever the gearbox maker
> specified.  Probably work fine with sperm oil! <g>
>
> For the A-type, Laycock always said to use non-detergent motor oil. 
> Standard-Triumph started out saying "whatever", then switched
> to the Laycock recommendation, then around 1960 switched back to only GL4 
> gear oil (GL5 didn't exist back then).  The story as I
> heard it (from an old dealer mechanic who got it from an old factory 
> engineer) was that they felt they had fewer (warranty) failures
> overall using gear oil, even though that was opposite the Laycock 
> recommendation.
>
> But, AFAIK, MGB never had the A-type.  And evidently, their gearbox held 
> up OK with motor oil, so that's what they used.
>
> The important point, I feel, is that neither type of oil is going to cause 
> instant overdrive malfunction.  If it doesn't work at
> all, there is something else wrong.  It's possible that using the wrong 
> oil might make it wear out faster, or more apt to break
> thrust washers or whatever; but changing oil isn't going to fix those 
> problems once they have happened.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
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Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 09:28:31 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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List:  Is it true that it doesn't matter which way one wires the coil (for
example after converting a car from positive to negative ground), but it is
important that the center electrode of the spark plug is always negative?

 

Andrew Uprichard

Always learning something new...

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  9 08:45:51 2014
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Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2014 09:20:28 -0600
To: "Andrew Uprichard"
  <auprichard@uprichard.net>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <001501cffc29$75fe4310$61fac930$@uprichard.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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The center electrode will be the opposite of the ground that you're 
using.  Negative ground = positive center electrode, Positive ground 
= negative center electrode.  Has to be that way to produce a spark - 
otherwise there's no current flow.  I believe that the coil has a + 
and - connector but need to go look again to be sure.

Tony Drews

At 08:28 AM 11/9/2014, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>List:  Is it true that it doesn't matter which way one wires the coil (for
>example after converting a car from positive to negative ground), but it is
>important that the center electrode of the spark plug is always negative?
>
>
>
>Andrew Uprichard
>
>Always learning something new...
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  9 08:46:15 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 07:23:56 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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> List:  Is it true that it doesn't matter which way one wires 
> the coil (for
> example after converting a car from positive to negative 
> ground), but it is
> important that the center electrode of the spark plug is 
> always negative?

Well, no.  Since you can't change the connections inside the coil, the polarity of the primary side is what determines the spark
polarity.

But, spark polarity makes only a tiny difference, not normally enough to notice.  Many people have gotten it backwards, and the
engine still runs "fine".  There are even engines that deliberately fire every other plug "backwards".  So, in that sense, it
doesn't matter.

Randall

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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <001501cffc29$75fe4310$61fac930$@uprichard.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 09:52:15 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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No to number one, yes to number two, at least according to this article as I 
read it, and reversing the coil wires when you switch polarity is how you 
keep it that way.

The car will generally run fine wired either way, but if something else is 
marginal or a stronger spark is needed you get a better spark if it is wired 
to have the center electrode negative.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

Greg Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 9, 2014 8:28 AM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity

> List:  Is it true that it doesn't matter which way one wires the coil (for
> example after converting a car from positive to negative ground), but it 
> is
> important that the center electrode of the spark plug is always negative?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Always learning something new...
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 09:23:53 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sun, Nov 9, 2014 at 7:28 AM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

List:  Is it true that it doesn't matter which way one wires the coil (for
> example after converting a car from positive to negative ground)...



Though spark polarity may be of little import -- it has always been my
understanding that coil polarity needs to be correct for the polarity of
the car.

IOW, on a positive ground car the little (white/black) wire from the coil
to the distributor should be connected to the coil post marked '+'.  Easy
to remember if you think about how that feed is an intermittent ground
(interrupted each time the points open).

Earlier coils were marked CB (contact breaker) and SW (switch) but as far
as I know those marks were made with positive ground cars in mind so
'CB'='+' and 'SW'='-'.

The ignition will still work with coil polarity reversed but I think the
points will not last as long.

OTOH, maybe this is just an old mechanics' wives tale that I believed and
am repeating.

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  9 11:16:51 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
References: <001501cffc29$75fe4310$61fac930$@uprichard.net>
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Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 11:46:41 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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most coils have a +  and a -

btw - if you hook up  a pertronix and wire the coil backwards, you will 
either be going back to points or buying a new one 

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Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 10:48:02 -0800
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> No to number one, yes to number two, at least according to 
> this article as I read it, 

You read it right, and Barney did a great write-up (although I don't believe the difference is anywhere near 15-20%).

BTW, this effect is the same way that vacuum tube diodes work.  By heating the cathode, it is much easier for electrons (aka
current) to flow to the plate when the plate is positive.

Randall

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dave n wrote:
> most coils have a +  and a -

Some have SW and CB - SW goes to the ignition switch, CB to the contact breaker.

mjb.

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     Anyone interested in a 1961 TR3 frame in SE WIS? Janesville to be more
precise.
 Gary

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  9 17:17:36 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2014 16:00:24 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac/8YQfNirgnooUrTxOdJbelPQG3FwAGBBBw
Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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> Some have SW and CB - SW goes to the ignition switch, CB to 
> the contact breaker.

Unless you've converted the car to negative ground.  Then you should switch the wires to the coil to keep the spark negative.

Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov  9 21:33:49 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2014 20:20:29 -0800
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings. I finally found the halogen bulbs I wanted to replace the original
incandescents in my Lucas PL700 headlights b eBay Germany of all places!
Now, Ibm trying to figure out how to orient them. Should the bshieldb
inside the bulb be on the bottom or on the top? Ibm guessing on the bottom
so more of the light shines into the inner reflector directly above the bulb.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 05:50:18 2014
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From: Chip19474@aol.com
Full-name: Chip19474
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 07:53:39 -0500
To: TR3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: Re: [TR] Coil and spark plugs polarity
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wow, Randall....I haven't seen those words since my days back in College  
studying vacuum tube theory....just for kicks, try running that explanation 
past  a bunch of "Tuner guys"!!!!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs,  Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4 CT2052L
 
 
In a message dated 11/9/2014 2:05:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
TR3driver@ca.rr.com writes:

BTW,  this effect is the same way that vacuum tube diodes work.  By heating 
the  cathode, it is much easier for electrons (aka
current) to flow to the plate  when the plate is positive.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 13:19:38 2014
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From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 14:19:45 -0600
To: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Tilt Lever, I'll try again. It is plain text.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anybody have an extra TR6 seat tilt lever?
I need one for the driver side seat, although I doubt the levers are
bhanded.b

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 14:18:56 2014
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Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 13:20:19 -0800
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] BRAKE HOSES
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I dissected the clogged hose and found it totally filled with rubber. It sounds like a good idea to change them on a regular basis, every 40 years or so. I changed them all including the clutch for the price of 1 SS hose. I also changed out the steel brake lines with copper/nickel which doesn't rust out and will last as long as the car will.  Joe Mato

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From: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 19:17:34 -0800
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Clutch Spring Anchor Plate for 64 TR-4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Folks,

Anybody know where I can source a clutch spring anchor plate (Number 58 on
this diagram)?



Thanks!

Greg

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 20:36:19 2014
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 19:39:09 -0800
References: <9DAE6AA4-5517-4E94-B31A-CC1A9FCE09ED@att.net>
To: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Clutch Spring Anchor Plate for 64 TR-4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Both Moss (part number 596-170, $2.16)  and TRF (part number 106347, $2.95)
list it.

-Darrell

> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net> wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Anybody know where I can source a clutch spring anchor plate (Number 58 on
> this diagram)?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Greg
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 21:20:30 2014
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Jeffrey Gayton'" <jtgayton@icloud.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5F035E84-172B-4CA8-A8B8-B0C65C975D9C@icloud.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 23:21:22 -0500
Thread-index: AQISjT0e8YH5Z8xMYBsrkFxJQOeSd5vVsyaA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine have the shield on top.  limits the light from being reflected up

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
Gayton
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2014 11:20 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs

Greetings. I finally found the halogen bulbs I wanted to replace the
original incandescents in my Lucas PL700 headlights b eBay Germany of all
places!
Now, Ibm trying to figure out how to orient them. Should the bshieldb
inside the bulb be on the bottom or on the top? Ibm guessing on the bottom
so more of the light shines into the inner reflector directly above the
bulb.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 22:05:37 2014
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From: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 21:00:01 -0800
References: <9DAE6AA4-5517-4E94-B31A-CC1A9FCE09ED@att.net>
 <F32C5A7E-E995-4400-B192-C0B4ABC8E74F@mac.com>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  Clutch Spring Anchor Plate for 64 TR-4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

thanks, Darrellb&

Moss shows it but doesnbt have it.  TRF is greyed out on the diagram  but
Ibll give them a callb&

thanks for the numbers!

greg

> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:39 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:
>
>
> Both Moss (part number 596-170, $2.16)  and TRF (part number 106347, $2.95)
list it.
>
> -Darrell
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net> wrote:
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Anybody know where I can source a clutch spring anchor plate (Number 58 on
>> this diagram)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360@mac.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 22:06:08 2014
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From: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 21:08:10 -0800
References: <9DAE6AA4-5517-4E94-B31A-CC1A9FCE09ED@att.net>
 <F32C5A7E-E995-4400-B192-C0B4ABC8E74F@mac.com>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  Clutch Spring Anchor Plate for 64 TR-4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

No joy either place!

still on the huntb&

thanks,
Greg


> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:39 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:
>
>
> Both Moss (part number 596-170, $2.16)  and TRF (part number 106347, $2.95)
list it.
>
> -Darrell
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net> wrote:
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Anybody know where I can source a clutch spring anchor plate (Number 58 on
>> this diagram)?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360@mac.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 10 22:09:23 2014
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From: Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2014 21:12:28 -0800
References: <9DAE6AA4-5517-4E94-B31A-CC1A9FCE09ED@att.net>
 <F32C5A7E-E995-4400-B192-C0B4ABC8E74F@mac.com>
 <3842075F-071C-404D-8721-DF7DAAB57F1B@att.net>
To: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Cc: "Triumphs \(triumphs@autox.team.net\)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [Bulk] Re:  Clutch Spring Anchor Plate for 64 TR-4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I take it back. Moss has them in stockb&

thanks,

Greg

> On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:08 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net> wrote:
>
> No joy either place!
>
> still on the huntb&
>
> thanks,
> Greg
>
>
>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:39 PM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Both Moss (part number 596-170, $2.16)  and TRF (part number 106347,
$2.95)
> list it.
>>
>> -Darrell
>>
>>> On Nov 10, 2014, at 7:17 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy@att.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Anybody know where I can source a clutch spring anchor plate (Number 58
on
>>> this diagram)?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Greg
>>>
>>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360@mac.com
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4boy@att.net
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr4boy@att.net>
> iN5N

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 07:56:38 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 08:59:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

couple of questions about an early (63) TR4 is smoking badly.  car sat for 25
years or so before I got it.  had it running and driving, but you sure
didnbt want to run it inside even a parking garage!

1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
engine?  bad idea anyway?

2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull just
the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
tranny shifts just fine, so I donbt need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
unit)

3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
really be in the way.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 08:07:21 2014
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 07:04:53 -0800
References: <A21E574EDF3E452CA5C0E835D6D63774@Ranteer.local>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Dave,

>From my experiences:

>
> 1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
> engine?  bad idea anyway?

In theory I guess you could.  Pulling the engine would be easier, and let you
clean up the block properly.

>
> 2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull
just
> the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
> tranny shifts just fine, so I donbt need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
> unit)

Ibve always pulled them both.  I think it would indeed be a major pain to
get the engine back on the tranny with it in the car.  I donbt know if the
overdrive shifts the equation at all, though.

>
> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
> really be in the way.

Yes, you will need to take it out.

-Darrell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 09:09:00 -0600
To: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>,<triumphs@autox.team.net>
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

It is possible to replace pistons and liners with the engine in the 
car, but barely.  It's not that hard to pull the engine.

It's better to pull the engine and tranny together, makes marrying 
them back up after the rebuild much easier.

You do want to remove the cross brace between the spring / shock 
towers to allow the engine to be pulled.  This page has a bit of a 
pictorial on engine / tranny removal:
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild.htm

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 08:59 AM 11/11/2014, dave n wrote:
>couple of questions about an early (63) TR4 is smoking badly.  car sat for 25
>years or so before I got it.  had it running and driving, but you sure
>didnbt want to run it inside even a parking garage!
>
>1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
>engine?  bad idea anyway?
>
>2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull just
>the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
>tranny shifts just fine, so I donbt need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
>unit)
>
>3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
>really be in the way.
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 06:25:09 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
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Once the head is off and the big ends of the rods are disconnected AND 
if the liners aren't rusted in place, then the pistons will come out 
with the liners. This whether it's in the car or on a stand. this 
answers 2 & 3 I guess..
dave
On 11/11/2014 7:59 AM, dave n wrote:
> couple of questions about an early (63) TR4 is smoking badly.  car sat for 25
> years or so before I got it.  had it running and driving, but you sure
> didnbt want to run it inside even a parking garage!
>
> 1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
> engine?  bad idea anyway?
>
> 2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull just
> the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
> tranny shifts just fine, so I donbt need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
> unit)
>
> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
> really be in the way.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'dave n'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 07:36:01 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
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> 1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without 
> pulling the
> engine?  

Definitely possible, I've done it more than once.  Biggest problem is cleaning up the mess that falls out of the cooling jacket onto
your bare crank journals (so wrap them in rags before pulling the liners).

> bad idea anyway?

Depends on a lot of things, including what your goals are and how bad the rest of the engine is.

My goal was to get the cars (all TR3As) back on the road ASAP, and I knew it was only a holding action.  Worked out quite well,
though, I'd do it again in the same situation.

> 2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or 
> easier to pull just
> the engine?

I've always pulled the tranny when I've pulled the engine, which is the procedure in the manual.  Just mating the tranny to the
engine in the car is enough of a hassle, doing it the other way around would be much worse, IMO.  

> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, 
> right?  

Yes, it has to come out to R&R the engine.  Get a copy of the workshop manual and follow the steps, that way you're less likely to
overlook things like the ground strap that aren't always obvious.
http://tinyurl.com/nvzbgpu

Randall

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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
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With due respect to all those who have contributed this far, why not be done
with it and use the opportunity to remove the engine and gearbox complete?
Even if you don't do anything to the box, what else has worn? If it's
smoking that badly, then a new set of piston rings and new valve guides
would be the cheap and cheerful route for a year or so. The head might be
the cheapest fix - but for how long? Having done probably more wet liner
four rebuilds than I've had hot dinners in an earlier life, it you're going
to fit new liners and pistons, why shouldn't one also find unacceptable
levels of wear on the cam lobes, cam followers, big and little end bearing
shells, oil seals, water pump and WHY? IMHO just fitting new pistons and
sleeves makes about as much sense as fitting a new clutch plate and not
bothering to replace the cover and thrust bearing at the same time.
Maybe I've got more money than sense (?) but the reported condition of this
old lump suggests that a full rebuild and checking a raft of other stuff
will save the time and inconvenience of pulling it apart again at a later
stage when something else goes pear-shaped.
Just the thoughts of an old ***t who worked on these cars at the factory
when they were being made so I'll now return to my hole in the ground.

Jonmac


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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
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My first experience tearing into an engine farther than head removal was a similar operation on my old TR4A.

I did the pistons and liners with the engine in place in the single stall that came with the apartment I rented at the time.  My experience was similar to Randall's, biggest challenge I remember was keeping everything clean, not just the crank but also to get the sealing surface for the figure 8 seals at the bottom of the liners cleaned up, as there will be a lot of crud in the block.  

The car ran great for many years after.  Would it be better to take it out and do a full rebuild, sure?  But time, resources and inclinations play a role as well.

Greg Lemon



---- John Macartney <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk> wrote: 
> With due respect to all those who have contributed this far, why not be done
> with it and use the opportunity to remove the engine and gearbox complete?
> Even if you don't do anything to the box, what else has worn? If it's
> smoking that badly, then a new set of piston rings and new valve guides
> would be the cheap and cheerful route for a year or so. The head might be
> the cheapest fix - but for how long? Having done probably more wet liner
> four rebuilds than I've had hot dinners in an earlier life, it you're going
> to fit new liners and pistons, why shouldn't one also find unacceptable
> levels of wear on the cam lobes, cam followers, big and little end bearing
> shells, oil seals, water pump and WHY? IMHO just fitting new pistons and
> sleeves makes about as much sense as fitting a new clutch plate and not
> bothering to replace the cover and thrust bearing at the same time.
> Maybe I've got more money than sense (?) but the reported condition of this
> old lump suggests that a full rebuild and checking a raft of other stuff
> will save the time and inconvenience of pulling it apart again at a later
> stage when something else goes pear-shaped.
> Just the thoughts of an old ***t who worked on these cars at the factory
> when they were being made so I'll now return to my hole in the ground.
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> 
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
> 
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
> 
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dave n wrote:

>
> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
> really be in the way.

When it comes time to remove the cross brace, put a jack under the center of the front frame
crossmember and lift the front off the ground. This will cause the car to droop a bit and
release and stress on the cross brace.

mjb.

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 13:07:37 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I'll add my experience as I did the pistons and liners (with the engine *in
situ*) on my TR3A earlier this year.

I had the advantage of having the car on a lift so access was ideal -- but
no problem tapping out the old liners and installing the new.

Perhaps I was lucky but it was all pleasant and easy -- just a few extra
steps beyond a head gasket and big end bearings job.

I wrapped the crank journals in aluminum foil to keep them clean and
pounded out the liners using a 18" x 3/4" iron pipe with a iron cap on one
end and a brass cap on the other (as suggested by you-know-who).  Since
they had not moved in 55 years I was ready for a fight, but they tapped out
w/o any fuss or drama.

I chose this route as the only problem I was experiencing was a broken ring
and damaged #4 piston and liner -- everything else was fine.

You would do well to check out as much about your engine as you can before
deciding whether you want a true overhaul or just a farmer-fix.

Geo

On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 7:59 AM, dave n <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> couple of questions about an early (63) TR4 is smoking badly.  car sat for
> 25
> years or so before I got it.  had it running and driving, but you sure
> didnb t want to run it inside even a parking garage!
>
> 1. is it possible to replace the pistons and liners without pulling the
> engine?  bad idea anyway?
>
> 2. is it better to pull the engine and tranny as a unit or easier to pull
> just
> the engine?  seems like it would be a bear to get them lined up again.  the
> tranny shifts just fine, so I donb t need to pull it.  (Its and overdrive
> unit)
>
> 3. I should remove the cross brace in front of the engine, right?  seems to
> really be in the way.
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 18:03:41 -0500
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Sorry to bomb the list, but I seem to remember there is a "key guy" out
there.  I need a key question answered!

 

If you could contact me off-list, I'd really appreciate it!

 

Andrew

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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "'Jeffrey Gayton'" <jtgayton@icloud.com>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5F035E84-172B-4CA8-A8B8-B0C65C975D9C@icloud.com>
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I looked at them again tonight with the lights on and I am not sure if mine
are correct.  They seem
Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....
Tampa, Florida


 to throw a lot of light up.  Could be just aimed wrong but won't get to it
before the weekend.   Sure hope you haven't installed them yet....  Or if
you have - what worked for you?
Carl




-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 11:21 PM
To: 'Jeffrey Gayton'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs

Mine have the shield on top.  limits the light from being reflected up

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
Gayton
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2014 11:20 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs

Greetings. I finally found the halogen bulbs I wanted to replace the
original incandescents in my Lucas PL700 headlights b eBay Germany of all
places!
Now, Ibm trying to figure out how to orient them. Should the bshieldb
inside the bulb be on the bottom or on the top? Ibm guessing on the bottom
so more of the light shines into the inner reflector directly above the
bulb.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:09:25 2014
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR Mail LIst" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 18:12:19 -0500
Thread-index: Ac/+BIyqjvMPZFe8TKuJojYtFD4i5A==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders.  I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:11:32 2014
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5F035E84-172B-4CA8-A8B8-B0C65C975D9C@icloud.com>
 <007501cffe04$837aef70$8a70ce50$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 18:14:29 -0500
Thread-index: AQISjT0e8YH5Z8xMYBsrkFxJQOeSdwLmQnrAm7+9gsA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That was strange....  corrected message below.

I looked at them again tonight with the lights on and I am not sure if mine
are correct.  They seem to throw a lot of light up.  Could be just aimed
wrong but won't get to it before the weekend.   Sure hope you haven't
installed them yet....  Or if you have - what worked for you?
Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....
Tampa, Florida

-----Original Message-----
From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 11:21 PM
To: 'Jeffrey Gayton'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs

Mine have the shield on top.  limits the light from being reflected up

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
Gayton
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2014 11:20 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs

Greetings. I finally found the halogen bulbs I wanted to replace the
original incandescents in my Lucas PL700 headlights b eBay Germany of all
places!
Now, Ibm trying to figure out how to orient them. Should the bshieldb
inside the bulb be on the bottom or on the top? Ibm guessing on the bottom
so more of the light shines into the inner reflector directly above the
bulb.

Thanks.

-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a@verizon.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:22:34 2014
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 17:25:35 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 You have a Verizon email address, if you have Verizon Internet, you can setup a site for free.
 
Craig
72 TR6
 
On 11/11/14, CFM-TR<cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
 
Anybody have suggestions for decent website service? Registration &
Hosting. See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders. I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE. LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME (10/1/14)....

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:47:09 2014
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  (PST)
References: <00bd01cffe03$c2ffba50$48ff2ef0$@uprichard.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 16:50:33 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] "key guy"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There's more than one.

There's Pete Groh...

Email:  pete_groh@yahoo.com

His website:  http://britishcarkeys.com/


The other fellow I have used is George Richardson...

His website:  http://www.key-men.com/triumph/


When I wanted a set of original used keys (been some years back) I think I
had to work with both of them to find what I needed.

More recently I had Pete cut door keys for the E-Type once I found a club
member who had a numbered key that worked in that lock.

Geo


On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
wrote:

> Sorry to bomb the list, but I seem to remember there is a "key guy" out
> there.  I need a key question answered!
>
>
>
> If you could contact me off-list, I'd really appreciate it!
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 16:49:54 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "TR Mail LIst" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <007601cffe04$f1a59a40$d4f0cec0$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 17:27:40 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

godaddy is pretty good, very affordable, and their customer service is rock 
solid, 7x24.

coffeecup is a good html/web program.  http://www.coffeecup.com/software/

I use an older version; its really simple.  and, btw, LView is a great, 
simple photo editing program.

GIMP is a great, free, photoshop variant.  a lot more effort to use

-----Original Message----- 
From: CFM-TR
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 5:12 PM
To: TR Mail LIst
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers

Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders.  I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.



Thanks



Carl 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 17:02:13 2014
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From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@comcast.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "'TR Mail LIst'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <007601cffe04$f1a59a40$d4f0cec0$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 16:03:43 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac/+BIyqjvMPZFe8TKuJojYtFD4i5AABmirQ
Content-Language: en-us
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Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I use GoDaddy for the Triumph Travelers web site (Triumph content). Decent
service, knowledgeable support staff, all the additives you could want and
not very expensive. I think they have "easy to use web builder"
applications, but I don't use them so don't know much about them. They also
have Wordpress incorporated which a lot of people seem to think is very easy
to use and very functional (I don't happen to like it, but that's me).
Still, I use it for the blog section of the web site.

If you like Wordpress, ie., no programming experience required, you can also
build your site on the Wordpress site, the downside is that your URL will be
something like www.wordress/yoursite.

I use Network Solutions to maintain registration of the domain name, that's
just where it's been historically and it's too much trouble to move it. They
also provide a web hosting and easy to use application building software.
All my interactions with them have been positive.

Hope that helps,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 3:12 PM
To: TR Mail LIst
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers

Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders.  I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer@comcast.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 17:06:22 2014
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 17:09:27 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: TR Mail LIst <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <007601cffe04$f1a59a40$d4f0cec0$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

CFM-TR wrote:
> Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
> Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
> Others?

I'd suggest Team.Net but they have some of the worst customer service on the planet, offer very
little in terms of easy to use web tools.  You may want to check out http://www.xmission.com in
your search, though. They host http://utahbluessociety.org for example.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 17:16:02 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <007601cffe04$f1a59a40$d4f0cec0$@verizon.net>
 <002d01cffe0c$1fe6b630$5fb42290$@net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
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On 11/11/14, 5:03 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote:
> I use GoDaddy for the Triumph Travelers web site (Triumph content).
I'm also on GoDaddy for my personal ( http://www.tjwakeman.net ) , 
Triumph ( http://www.tr3a.info ), Land Rover ( 
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info ) and Aladdin lamp ( 
http://www.aladdinlamps.info ) web sites.  I think their interface s a 
little clunky but they are reasonably priced and everything just works 
without problems.  I'l also give them a thumbs up.

I use Dreamweaver.  Powerful but has a learning curve.

TeriAnn

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 16:49:15 -0800
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-4 engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Also with the engine out you can lighten and balance your valve train and flywheel as well as doing some intake manifold work.  Much smoother and easy to rev,
not too expensive. Joe

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 17:49:33 2014
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From: <jeremiah@curryclan.net>
To: =?utf-8?Q?Triumph_Sports_car_Discussion?= <triumphs@autox.team.net>,
 "=?utf-8?Q?cfmtr3a@verizon.net?=" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 00:51:56 +0000
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Subject: Re: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Web_servers?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

1and1.com is a good one to check out






Sent from Windows Mail





From: CFM-TR
Sent: bTuesdayb, bNovemberb b11b, b2014 b4b:b12b bPM
To: Triumph Sports car Discussion





Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders.  I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 18:31:53 2014
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>, "TR Mail LIst" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <007601cffe04$f1a59a40$d4f0cec0$@verizon.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 20:41:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: "TR Mail LIst" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers


Hi Carl,
Funny you should ask..
I just recently had to move my TR4A restoration site as my previous web host 
was closing down that service. Too bad as it was free..
Anyway, I looked around and settled on Ipage.com. Supper easy to set up a 
website and very reasonable. They are much cheaper than GoDaddy.
Email me if you have any more questions.
Dave Connitt
http://Davestr4a.com







> Anybody have suggestions for decent website service?  Registration &
> Hosting.   See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
> Others?
>
> Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
> builders.  I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
> SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....
>
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt@fuse.net

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 18:49:51 2014
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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 20:52:53 -0500
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 7:51 PM,  <jeremiah@curryclan.net> wrote:
> 1and1.com is a good one to check out



Another vote for 1and1.com

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 19:41:49 2014
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References: <1D10F803-AC0E-4040-8B2C-053019518F74@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 21:45:05 -0500
From: greg@gelhar.com
To: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth@mac.com>
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.19
Cc: "Triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Seat Tilt Lever, I'll try again. It is plain text.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Does anybody have an extra TR6 seat tilt lever?
> I need one for the driver side seat, although I doubt the levers are
> bhanded.b
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg@gelhar.com
>
Here is a used one on EBAY.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-SEAT-HANDLE-/111360716248?hash=item19ed9dadd8&vxp=mtr

New from Moss is a little more $.


Greg G.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 21:37:47 2014
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From: Jeffrey Gayton <jtgayton@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2014 20:40:24 -0800
References: <5F035E84-172B-4CA8-A8B8-B0C65C975D9C@icloud.com>
 <007501cffe04$837aef70$8a70ce50$@verizon.net>
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

In the end, I just tried one halogen face up in one headlight and one face
down in the other. Face up was clearly better. With the bulb face-up and the
headlights on without high beams, therebs a clear horizontal line at the top
of the beam keeping the light from blinding oncoming drivers. The face down
bulb cast a rounder light with a higher beam. When high beams are on, the
differences are more subtle. Both were orientations were rounder, brighter,
and higher on high beams, but the face down orientation was a bit higher
still, and probably too high.

Thanks.

> On Nov 11, 2014, at 3:09 PM, CFM-TR <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> I looked at them again tonight with the lights on and I am not sure if mine
> are correct.  They seem
> Carl
>
> 1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
> SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....
> Tampa, Florida
>
>
> to throw a lot of light up.  Could be just aimed wrong but won't get to it
> before the weekend.   Sure hope you haven't installed them yet....  Or if
> you have - what worked for you?
> Carl
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CFM-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a@verizon.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 11:21 PM
> To: 'Jeffrey Gayton'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
>
> Mine have the shield on top.  limits the light from being reflected up
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey
> Gayton
> Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2014 11:20 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Orientation of Halogen Headlight Bulbs
>
> Greetings. I finally found the halogen bulbs I wanted to replace the
> original incandescents in my Lucas PL700 headlights b eBay Germany of all
> places!
> Now, Ibm trying to figure out how to orient them. Should the bshieldb
> inside the bulb be on the bottom or on the top? Ibm guessing on the bottom
> so more of the light shines into the inner reflector directly above the
> bulb.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Jeff
>
>
>


-- Jeff

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 11 22:40:41 2014
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From: "CFM-TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net>
To: <thenicholls@verizon.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <18132331.3327902.1415748335767.JavaMail.root@vznit170190>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 00:43:51 -0500
Content-language: en-us
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Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers
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Their free one - mysite.verizon.net is the one that has gone away unless
there is a replacement I didn't hear about.
Carl
1960 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE.  LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME  (10/1/14)....
Tampa, Florida




-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
thenicholls@verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2014 6:26 PM
To: cfmtr3a@verizon.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Web servers

 You have a Verizon email address, if you have Verizon Internet, you can
setup a site for free.
 
Craig
72 TR6
 
On 11/11/14, CFM-TR<cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
 
Anybody have suggestions for decent website service? Registration & Hosting.
See a lot of ads for GoDaddy but no real knowledge of them.
Others?

Second part of the question is any suggestions on simple to use web
builders. I have a basic understanding of HTML but nothing fancy.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

1960 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ - VERIZON DISCONTINUED THEIR MYSITE
SERVICE. LOOKING FOR A NEW HOME (10/1/14)....

Tampa, Florida

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 12 02:06:29 2014
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From: "David Greed" <david.greed@wave.co.nz>
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References: <E9.13.12271.3D19E545@cdptpa-oedge02>
 <EEB8622DFD604AD4B86A89595464F366@AdrianPC>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 22:09:19 +1300
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Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My apologies for not replying to all the responses earlier - work getting in
the way...

I verified that the lock out switch was OK using a multi meter beep test and
there was no doubt in our minds that it was working properly. A previous
owner has also installed a relay and this works as expected, especially
after replacing the lucar terminals with ones that connected better.

So, I am inclined to think that the oil is the problem. I am also wondering
about the filters but wondering how difficult these are to access on a
J-Type unit. Special tools required?

Regards


DavidG

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
Sent: Sunday, 9 November 2014 14:47
To: Randall; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity

Hi Randall,

In an earlier post on this thread I said I had a non working overdrive after
a gearbox oil change.
This was in fact on an MGB I owned where I put in SAE 80W90 in error.
Drained and changed to the correct grade of SAE 20W50 and the overdrive
worked again.
I can only speak of a personal experience.

Regards,
Adrian

----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity


>> A much renowned small British oil producer and distributor
>> recommended 80W90
>> GL4 gear oil for my TR but recommended 20W50 engine oil for my MGB.
>> Work that one out if you can!
>
> Which overdrives?  They aren't all the same.  The J-type pretty much 
> didn't care, it would run in whatever the gearbox maker
> specified.  Probably work fine with sperm oil! <g>
>
> For the A-type, Laycock always said to use non-detergent motor oil. 
> Standard-Triumph started out saying "whatever", then switched
> to the Laycock recommendation, then around 1960 switched back to only GL4 
> gear oil (GL5 didn't exist back then).  The story as I
> heard it (from an old dealer mechanic who got it from an old factory 
> engineer) was that they felt they had fewer (warranty) failures
> overall using gear oil, even though that was opposite the Laycock 
> recommendation.
>
> But, AFAIK, MGB never had the A-type.  And evidently, their gearbox held 
> up OK with motor oil, so that's what they used.
>
> The important point, I feel, is that neither type of oil is going to cause

> instant overdrive malfunction.  If it doesn't work at
> all, there is something else wrong.  It's possible that using the wrong 
> oil might make it wear out faster, or more apt to break
> thrust washers or whatever; but changing oil isn't going to fix those 
> problems once they have happened.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2015.0.5315 / Virus Database: 4189/8533 - Release Date: 11/08/14

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 12 07:18:30 2014
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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 09:21:52 -0500
From: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Pan replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Every 50 years or so one might have to repair or replace the seat pans in
these vintage convertables. The metal cracks at the stress points, like the
four locations where the mounting bolts go.  I've done enough welding
repairs here that it's starting to look like war torn downtown Bagdad.
So it's time to replace these two pans, I'm very TEMPTED to order two
passenger ones, the style with the folding seat back. The current drivers
side does not have the hinge, and this has been a source of annoyance.

Comments?

Will  Daehler
63 TR4
Powder Blue

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:21:53 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Seat Pan replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Makes sense to me.  I drove mine that way for many years before I found out
the hinged seat was supposed to be on the passenger side.  It seemed more
convenient for me to have the drivers side hinged and I would think having
both hinged would be great.

An extra feature of this -- when I had the hinged seat on the drivers side
I used a couple of 1/4" hardwood pieces on the metal pads to make the seat
more upright -- a position that better suited me.

Geo


On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 7:21 AM, Will Daehler <will.daehler@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Every 50 years or so one might have to repair or replace the seat pans in
> these vintage convertables. The metal cracks at the stress points, like the
> four locations where the mounting bolts go.  I've done enough welding
> repairs here that it's starting to look like war torn downtown Bagdad.
> So it's time to replace these two pans, I'm very TEMPTED to order two
> passenger ones, the style with the folding seat back. The current drivers
> side does not have the hinge, and this has been a source of annoyance.
>
> Comments?
>
> Will  Daehler
> 63 TR4
> Powder Blue
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 12 09:28:24 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:31:47 -0800
Thread-Index: AQGFuUmm6+a1FQb8CKZxPAZdJFEmNAIMu2IQnODWyiCAAHiNoA==
Subject: Re: [TR] J-Type Overdrive oddity
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I verified that the lock out switch was OK using a multi 
> meter beep test

Apologies if I've mentioned this before in this thread.  I have seen those switches fail in such a way that they would pass the
"beep test" and still not work properly in the circuit.  It's best to test them in-circuit, by checking how much voltage actually
gets to the solenoid (or relay if you have one).  Mine was showing a resistance of about 20 ohms, enough to make the DMM beep, but
not enough to reliably operate the relay.

> So, I am inclined to think that the oil is the problem. I am 
> also wondering
> about the filters but wondering how difficult these are to access on a
> J-Type unit. Special tools required?

No special tool for the suction filter, just undo the sump cover and pull the filter off.  You'll probably want a new gasket.

For the high pressure filter, you'll need a tool to unscrew the retaining plug.  I made a simple tool that worked well enough, by
drilling a heavy (approx 6mm thick by 30mm wide) iron bar for a couple of dowel pins to engage the plug, and letting the bar be the
lever.  There is a better home-made tool shown at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD2/JOD2.htm

While you are in there with the special tool, I would also pull out the dashpot and relief valve for cleaning.  There are a lot of
precision sliding fits in that mechanism, and it only takes a tiny particle of metal to jam it.  The dashpot (and relief valve) have
to move to engage (or release) overdrive.

Randall

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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2014 22:26:47 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Just to add to what others have said, like Geo I swapped out liners/pistons last spring with the engine in the car.  No lift, I jacked it up onto blocks high enough to crawl under and sling a BFH against an old piece of oak flooring to dislodge the liners. No problems.  Used electrical contact cleaner to spray off the journals and wiped well with microfiber.

To lift out the engine and tranny together, I don't know about TR4's.  But for my 3A the car had to be high enough off the ground for everything to clear coming out and going back in.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 07:11:35 2014
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 09:14:51 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac//TAS9Fdj0Wx7PQcKPK1qBs/qCqg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] Spax or Koni
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Building a  nice, fat-road 1957 TR3 (150 bhp, overdrive, rack and pinion,
etc) and am wondering about front shocks.  Spax or Koni?

 

Appreciate the wisdom of the list.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 07:55:23 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.10; rv:24.0)
 Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <000701cfff4c$364d32a0$a2e797e0$@uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Spax or Koni
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On 11/13/14, 7:14 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> Building a  nice, fat-road 1957 TR3 (150 bhp, overdrive, rack and pinion,
> etc) and am wondering about front shocks.  Spax or Koni?
>
What suspension do you have?  A TR3 with standard stock suspension rolls 
heavily in the curves and shocks alone will not cure the problem.

I run Spax but it is part of a suspension system that includes a large 
front anti sway bar, poly bushings, rebuilt rear shocks with heavy duty 
valves, and the shorter competition front springs.  I have purposefully 
left the rear springs stock but lengthened the rear shackles a little so 
the springs can flex more without hitting the frame.  I'm one of those 
people who believes that the corner handling is more predictable if you 
stiffen the front but not the rear.  I have also found that the rear end 
behaves better powering out of a corner with a limited slip diff.

If you don't have a front sway bar check with TSI Automotive.

http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com

For stronger front hubs and axles go to Tony Drew's site

http://www.tonydrews.com/Aluminum%20Hubs/AluminumFrontHubs.htm

So anyway, what works depends upon what you intend to do with your 
fat-road TR3 and how you set your suspension up.

TeriAnn
http://www.tr3a.info

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 09:58:29 2014
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From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist@cox.net>
To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <F2Ep1p01q0NyJgq012EqDi>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 10:01:42 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac//TAS9Fdj0Wx7PQcKPK1qBs/qCqgAF26uA
Subject: Re: [TR] Spax or Koni
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used both and of the two prefer KONI!

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew
Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:15 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Spax or Koni

Building a  nice, fat-road 1957 TR3 (150 bhp, overdrive, rack and pinion,
etc) and am wondering about front shocks.  Spax or Koni?

 

Appreciate the wisdom of the list.

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist@cox.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 17:50:32 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 18:53:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] early 63 TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

the knobs on the dashboard support (I havenbt gotten to the others yet) b
looks like there is a little hole, and inside that a piece of metal b that
you depress, and the knob slides off?

I think mine are stuck.  they are not in great shape b just cut them off if
I canbt pull them out with the little thingee depressed?  carbs been
sitting for 25+ years.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 17:51:22 2014
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From: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 16:54:20 -0800
To: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Moss Motors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone had trouble with Moss Motors customer service department? I have
been a loyal customer for many years and spent, as we do on these cars, a lot
of money.

            Anyhow, one of the o-rings on the carbs of the TR4 went out, since
gas leaked. Since with dual carbs, I ordered replacement o-rings, washers,
etc. and order two sets, since might as well replace the other carb as well,
from Moss last week, Today tackled the carbs, but of the five items related,
four showed up as two and fifth as one.  Replaced the faulty o-rings on one
carb, but could do no the other.  Called Moss customer service and after a
long discussion, they told me if I place an order for additional parts, they
will not charge me for the missing o-ring. I tried to explain, I dont need
anything else. Maybe I lost my common sense, you have dual carbs, and so you
order two of everything, to take care of both at the same time.
            Should I try calling back tomorrow, and maybe someone will be a
bit more  understanding?

Tim, who would really like drive his TR4 '64

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 17:57:38 2014
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From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 17:00:41 -0800
References: <AD94AC4D-8F94-484A-8F2C-684798152B39@citlink.net>
To: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>
Cc: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Motors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tim,

Ibve always had very good response from their customer service department
when missing items, or there was a mistake.  Ibd call back!

-Darrell

> On Nov 13, 2014, at 4:54 PM, Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net> wrote:
>
> Has anyone had trouble with Moss Motors customer service department? I have
> been a loyal customer for many years and spent, as we do on these cars, a
lot
> of money.
>
>            Anyhow, one of the o-rings on the carbs of the TR4 went out,
since
> gas leaked. Since with dual carbs, I ordered replacement o-rings, washers,
> etc. and order two sets, since might as well replace the other carb as
well,
> from Moss last week, Today tackled the carbs, but of the five items
related,
> four showed up as two and fifth as one.  Replaced the faulty o-rings on one
> carb, but could do no the other.  Called Moss customer service and after a
> long discussion, they told me if I place an order for additional parts,
they
> will not charge me for the missing o-ring. I tried to explain, I dont need
> anything else. Maybe I lost my common sense, you have dual carbs, and so
you
> order two of everything, to take care of both at the same time.
>            Should I try calling back tomorrow, and maybe someone will be a
> bit more  understanding?
>
> Tim, who would really like drive his TR4 '64
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360@mac.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 13 23:57:41 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'dave n'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 23:00:31 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac//pWcDmpJ17lTMS6uxJyEkrRFGSgAMokoQ
Subject: Re: [TR] early 63 TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> the knobs on the dashboard support (I havenbt gotten to the
> others yet) b
> looks like there is a little hole, and inside that a piece of
> metal b that
> you depress, and the knob slides off?
>
> I think mine are stuck.  they are not in great shape b just
> cut them off if
> I canbt pull them out with the little thingee depressed?  carbs been
> sitting for 25+ years.

What worked for me (on a friend's TR6) was to use a pair of the smallest pry
bars from HF along with some scraps of wood to avoid
marring the dash.  One pry bar on each side, so the force on the knob was
straight out.  Definitely took some force, but they all
came off intact.
http://tinyurl.com/4qjnawz

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 07:43:27 2014
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 07:46:47 -0700
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "Triumphs (triumphs@autox.team.net)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] follow up on for sale cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Both GT6's are gone.
The TR4A remains in a cozy garage bay awaiting...
dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 07:49:51 2014
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 06:53:19 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAAGk0F3ghMpgp6ROKgwzmd/+ul1w==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anybody know what thread type the bleeder screws are in a 57 TR3 front
brake caliper?

At some point in the past, somebody broke it off and then filled it with JB
weld.  

I expect to foul the threads removing this mess.

Anybody want to take bets as to whether or not there is a drill bit broken
off in there as well?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 07:57:55 2014
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 08:01:23 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 7:53 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:

...I expect to foul the threads removing this mess.
>
> Anybody want to take bets as to whether or not there is a drill bit broken
> off in there as well?
>


My guess would be an EZ-Out.   Good luck!

Geo

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 11:43:02 2014
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From: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 10:46:25 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I went this same sort of thing, went so far as to take the caliper to a good
machine shop, they could get it out and rethread it but no screw in the know
universe  would fit.

Best fix?  Get another caliper.

> On Nov 14, 2014, at 7:01 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 7:53 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> ...I expect to foul the threads removing this mess.
>>
>> Anybody want to take bets as to whether or not there is a drill bit broken
>> off in there as well?
>>
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007@comcast.netp

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:51:18 -0500
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>,  'Triumph Mail List'
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Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I wonder if you took a fitting with the caliper if they could not tap it 
to match?

Doug
On 11/14/2014 1:46 PM, William Pugh wrote:
> I went this same sort of thing, went so far as to take the caliper to a good
> machine shop, they could get it out and rethread it but no screw in the know
> universe  would fit.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 20:09:05 +0000 (UTC)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>, TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <AD94AC4D-8F94-484A-8F2C-684798152B39@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Motors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

my friends and I have taken to calling them %*&$@#( moss
B       From: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>
 To: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 4:54 PM
 Subject: [TR] Moss Motors

Has anyone had trouble with Moss Motors customer service department? I have
been a loyal customer for many years and spent, as we do on these cars, a lot
of money.

B  B  B  B  B  B  Anyhow, one of the o-rings on the carbs of the TR4 went out,
since
gas leaked. Since with dual carbs, I ordered replacement o-rings, washers,
etc. and order two sets, since might as well replace the other carb as well,
from Moss last week, Today tackled the carbs, but of the five items related,
four showed up as two and fifth as one.B  Replaced the faulty o-rings on one
carb, but could do no the other.B  Called Moss customer service and after a
long discussion, they told me if I place an order for additional parts, they
will not charge me for the missing o-ring. I tried to explain, I dont need
anything else. Maybe I lost my common sense, you have dual carbs, and so you
order two of everything, to take care of both at the same time.
B  B  B  B  B  B  Should I try calling back tomorrow, and maybe someone will
be a
bit moreB  understanding?

Tim, who would really like drive his TR4 '64

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:27:18 2014
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: "'TR List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:30:15 -0500
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Subject: [TR] Moss Motors and TRF
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I have never had a problem with Moss - they are a big company and operate
like one.  I like their website and they are very responsive. However, a
couple of weeks ago I was put in touch with Albert Runyan at TRF and he has
gone out of his way to help as I order eclectic parts for cars at various
stages of restoration.  Really nice guy.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank
Fisher
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 3:09 PM
To: Tim Purdy; TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Motors

my friends and I have taken to calling them %*&$@#( moss
B       From: Tim Purdy <timipurdy@citlink.net>
 To: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 4:54 PM
 Subject: [TR] Moss Motors

Has anyone had trouble with Moss Motors customer service department? I have
been a loyal customer for many years and spent, as we do on these cars, a
lot of money.

B  B  B  B  B  B  Anyhow, one of the o-rings on the carbs of the TR4 went
out, since gas leaked. Since with dual carbs, I ordered replacement o-rings,
washers, etc. and order two sets, since might as well replace the other carb
as well, from Moss last week, Today tackled the carbs, but of the five items
related, four showed up as two and fifth as one.B  Replaced the faulty
o-rings on one carb, but could do no the other.B  Called Moss customer
service and after a long discussion, they told me if I place an order for
additional parts, they will not charge me for the missing o-ring. I tried to
explain, I dont need anything else. Maybe I lost my common sense, you have
dual carbs, and so you order two of everything, to take care of both at the
same time.
B  B  B  B  B  B  Should I try calling back tomorrow, and maybe someone will
be a bit moreB  understanding?

Tim, who would really like drive his TR4 '64

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:28:43 2014
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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:32:24 -0500
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Subject: [TR] "break-in" oil
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What is the recommended oil for the break-in period for a new engine?  And
why?

 

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:30:38 2014
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From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp@mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Moss Motors - missing O-ring
Thread-Index: AdAAUkFKClHTR0tYTrKmlnhhhIhtuw==
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 21:33:47 +0000
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Subject: [TR] Moss Motors - missing O-ring
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I talked with our customer service people, evidently there was a miss
understanding.  They were under the impression that you only ordered 1 of the
fifth item not two.  Therefore they could not send another one because it did
not make the minimum order.
In any case, today they are sending directly to you another at no charge.

Peter - 1971 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:36:29 2014
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:39:45 -0500
From: ptegler <ptegler@verizon.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <006801d00052$8184b2a0$848e17e0$@uprichard.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] "break-in" oil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You can even buy specialized oil for engine break in these days , but 
over all a straight 30wt non-detergent dino (NOT synthetic) oil is best.
The less additives the better. You want a little wear, but want it lubed 
as well. Additives will embed in the metal rather than letting the rough 
edges' all wear down as needed. IR rings to cyl walls, smoothing of 
bearings to journals etc.  A high ZDDP content is good... might as well 
get it embedded in the metal as early as possible.

ptegler


On 11/14/2014 4:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> What is the recommended oil for the break-in period for a new engine?  And
> why?
>
>   
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>

-- 
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:41:54 2014
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 13:42:39 -0800
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3 bleeder screw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

You could take out the screw from the other caliper. I know they are bigger than the back screws. 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:45:07 2014
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To: jpaynepbr@cox.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had a similar problem with frozen bleeder screws.  In the short term 
I
bled the system by loosening the hydraulic line.

The ultimate fix was to
send the calipers off to Peter at Worldwide for 
a professional rebuild.  I
think this is a case where professional help 
is needed.  Don't scrimp on the
brakes.

Dave Massey



-----Original Message-----
From: Jonas Payne
<jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov
14, 2014 1:41 pm
Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Front Brake Bleeder


Does anybody
know what thread type the bleeder screws are in a 57 TR3 
front
brake
caliper?

At some point in the past, somebody broke it off and then filled
it 
with JB
weld.

I expect to foul the threads removing this mess.
Anybody want to take bets as to whether or not there is a drill bit 
broken
off in there as well?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 14:46:47 2014
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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net>
To: "JOSEPH MATO" <joemato@sbcglobal.net>,	<triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1416001359.5785.YahooMailBasic@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:49:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 bleeder screw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I found the bleeder screws at TRF.  Have to look them up by PN.  I just 
removed a broken one and replaced it with no problems, but lots of effort.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: JOSEPH MATO
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 4:42 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-3 bleeder screw

You could take out the screw from the other caliper. I know they are bigger 
than the back screws.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner@verizon.net 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 14 17:19:54 2014
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>, "'TR List'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006701d00052$36654870$a32fd950$@uprichard.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2014 19:28:38 -0500
Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Motors and TRF
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Another good source that I have found is Scott Harper of Team Triumph (330 
392-7176) in upstate Ohio. He is a Moss reseller but also has a lot of parts 
cars that he as collected over the years that have saved me on some hard to 
find parts like front bumper brackets for my TR4A.
He is a really good guy to work with and it doesn't hurt to help out a 
valuable source with a order every once and awhile. I found that he doesn't 
answer his phone from 12-1 and isn't open on Saturdays.
I am sure there are other resellers out there that provide services and 
parts beyond what Moss and TRF sell but this is the only one I know of in my 
area (Ohio).
Just my .02,
Dave Connitt 

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 15 09:18:14 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Tim Purdy'" <timipurdy@citlink.net>, "'TR List'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2014 08:21:38 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] Moss Motors
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> Has anyone had trouble with Moss Motors customer service 
> department? 

As usual, if you can get Peter or Kelvin's attention, they'll make it right.  The guy at the counter (or on the phone) isn't always
so understanding, though.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2014 11:52:39 -0800
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Subject: [TR] 57 TR3 Brake Caliper Update
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Well,

 

It's either a drill bit, an easy out or a tap that's broken off in the bleed
nipple hole, because it's harder than any drill bits that I own.  It
actually sparks when you hit it with the pilot punch.

 

Anybody have an exposed pipe LH caliper they are looking to sell?

 

Jonas Payne

PBR Consulting Services, LLC

702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 15 13:35:18 2014
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Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2014 20:38:00 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: TR List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0C.24.08967.19D77645@cdptpa-oedge03>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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Subject: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

First, total hats off to Moss.  They have a series of videos about setting timing on cars with no cam or crank gear marks.  Easy peasy.  Thank you to them.

Now, the timing chain cover has a bolt hole just above the crank hole.  The bolt may not have been on the engine when I disassembled it, since I'm pretty fastidious about bagging and tagging, but...whatever.  

The bolt doesn't show in exploded diagrams of the engine.  Anybody know what it is?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Thread-Topic: TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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Never mind.  I found the right bag.  (Duh me).


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 15 13:46:36 2014
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From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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It's been a few years but as I recall there is a standoff behind that 
bolt
hole.  This is one more piece that secures the cover to the engine 
and in
addition it will dampen any buzzing the stamped steel cover may 
be prone to
do.  The TR6 has no such feature and as a result they 
slathered it with some
vibration dampening goo at the factory instead.  
Lovely.

Dave Massey
-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs <terryrs@comcast.net>
To: TR List
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Nov 15, 2014 2:38 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3
Timing Chain Cover


First, total hats off to Moss.  They have a series of
videos about 
setting
timing on cars with no cam or crank gear marks.  Easy
peasy.  Thank you 
to them.

Now, the timing chain cover has a bolt hole
just above the crank hole.  
The bolt
may not have been on the engine when I
disassembled it, since I'm 
pretty
fastidious about bagging and tagging,
but...whatever.

The bolt doesn't show in exploded diagrams of the engine.
Anybody know 
what it
is?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

**
triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 15 18:06:27 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2014 17:09:51 -0800
Thread-Index: AdABFa9BnEYDITb5TLmZLm3WnxGMdwAI8waA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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> It's been a few years but as I recall there is a standoff behind that 
> bolt
> hole.  This is one more piece that secures the cover to the engine 
> and in
> addition it will dampen any buzzing the stamped steel cover may 
> be prone to
> do.  The TR6 has no such feature and as a result they 
> slathered it with some
> vibration dampening goo at the factory instead.  

Right, there is a special stud that supports the cover on the TR2-4.  P/N 56763  It's listed in the SPC but not illustrated. It
should also have a fiber washer/gasket between it and the cover (P/N 33085), which wasn't in the past few gasket sets I bought, so I
cut one from the unused carb gaskets.

The TR3 apparently also got the "goo" treatment, but most people (including myself) cleaned it off without realizing it should be
there.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 16 07:00:49 2014
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2014 14:03:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
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>Right, there is a special stud that supports the cover on the TR2-4.  


Actually do have a question after all.  I don't see a lockwasher under the pedstal anwywhere and the few times I've removed it ISTR there wasn't one.  Or is my memory now the fifth thing to fail?

Terry

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2014 07:21:32 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

My notes make no mention of a lockwasher - but they do note that the post
was loose when I removed the cover.

I may have used blue Loctite upon reassembly, but no washer.

Geo

On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 7:03 AM, <terryrs@comcast.net> wrote:

> >Right, there is a special stud that supports the cover on the TR2-4.
>
>
> Actually do have a question after all.  I don't see a lockwasher under the
> pedstal anwywhere and the few times I've removed it ISTR there wasn't one.
> Or is my memory now the fifth thing to fail?
>
> Terry
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 16 08:15:13 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
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Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2014 07:18:10 -0800
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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> Actually do have a question after all.  I don't see a 
> lockwasher under the pedstal anwywhere and the few times I've 
> removed it ISTR there wasn't one.

I agree, no lock washer under the pedestal; only one under the nut on the outside of the cover.  The pedestal was originally staked
into the plate, and normally only removed if it is damaged.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 16 12:13:28 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing Chain Cover
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My guess is no.  The stud needs to be the right length or else it will
deform the cover.  If you shorten the stud to compensate for a lock 
washer
you put yourself at the mercy of the lockwasher supplier and the 
occasional
service provider who replaces the lockwasher with a new one 
that is not to
spec.  Lockwasher thickness specs are pretty loose.

Dave Massey
-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs <terryrs@comcast.net>
To: triumphs
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 16, 2014 12:51 pm
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR3 Timing Chain Cover


>Right, there is a special stud that supports the
cover on the TR2-4.


Actually do have a question after all.  I don't see a
lockwasher under 
the
pedstal anwywhere and the few times I've removed it
ISTR there wasn't 
one.  Or
is my memory now the fifth thing to fail?
Terry

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 0:53:48 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>, Mark J Bradakis
  <mark@bradakis.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 0:53:48 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuff for sale
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> And for the rest of November and December, I'll set aside 10% of any sales to a current
> project of mine, feeding the hungry:  http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html

FYI, That page appears to contain a reference to an image on your local hard drive; doesn't show so good from this end.

But I threw some in the pot anyway.  Hope it helps.

Randall

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 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>; Tue, 18 Nov 2014 18:01:04 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 18:01:03 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <20141119005348.5Y0DV.19020.root@cdptpa-web11>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuff for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Randall wrote:
>
>> And for the rest of November and December, I'll set aside 10% of any sales to a current
>> project of mine, feeding the hungry:  http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html
>
> FYI, That page appears to contain a reference to an image on your local hard drive; doesn't show so good from this end.
>
> But I threw some in the pot anyway.  Hope it helps.
>
> Randall
>


Okay, photo fixed, I'm not used to the seamonkey composer app.
And thanks again.

mjb.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 18 17:59:10 2014
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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 17:02:25 -0800
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Many thanks to those of you who offered to help.



Thanks to Dave for your recommendation on the reverse carbide bit as well.



I decided that this one was out of my league and called in a specialist -
$65 and Gilbert Machine in Las Vegas had it done in = an hour.  It was a
broken tap.  They cut in new 3/8 (I think) 20 TPI BSF threads and Im off
to the races.







Jonas Payne

PBR Consulting Services, LLC

702.882.6711

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 18 18:01:33 2014
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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 19:04:40 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuff for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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 Threw some in the pot myself.


Craig
72 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 11/18/14, Mark J Bradakis<mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
 
With the onset of winter here in Salt Lake City, time to clean up the garage enough
to get Karen's car inside. To that end I will be offering various parts and tools for
sale. Check out

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=178 TR6 start solenoid

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=160 Spitfire column switch

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144 Weber 40 DCOE

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=144 TR6 Weber manifold ( post needs updating )



And for the rest of November and December, I'll set aside 10% of any sales to a current
project of mine, feeding the hungry: http://bradakis.com/fill_pot.html
If you aren't interested in any of the parts but want to assist in filling the pot, I won't
complain ;-)

mjb the huckster.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 18 18:12:19 2014
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Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2014 19:13:32 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Cover for TR6 hardtop on a stand
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Built a stand for my hardtop from some directions from the list years back, and always have it covered with a blanket secured with some duct tape.


Have not spent much money this year after last year's total gearbox and clutch event, my wife is happy but I feel the urge.


Anyone on the list aware or have found something that will cover their hardtop while its sitting in the corner of your garage?  I figured for sure Bob Danielson had this covered on his site, but no such luck.  Bob, want to sew me a cover?


Looked around, did not see anything, open to suggestions.


Thanks, and I hope all on the list have a great holiday season.


Craig 
72 TR6

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 19 02:19:59 2014
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From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 22:23:20 +1300
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR5 boot seal rubber
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi!,
Which is the correct way to fit boot rubber,ie the lip on one side is fitted
outwards or inwards.I am having trouble to find a softer rubber seal so boot
lid sits down even.
Many thanks

Ashley

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 19 05:49:21 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <0D214496666346F3ABB9E396856552CB@AshleysPC>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 06:52:17 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 - TR5 boot seal rubber
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe the raised lip goes to the outside, if you find something that 
does not make the lid sit out from the bodywork let us know, I have tried 
seals from a couple suppliers with no luck.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "ashleys" <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2014 3:23 AM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR5 boot seal rubber

> Hi!,
> Which is the correct way to fit boot rubber,ie the lip on one side is 
> fitted
> outwards or inwards.I am having trouble to find a softer rubber seal so 
> boot
> lid sits down even.
> Many thanks
>
> Ashley
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon@neb.rr.com 

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 19 07:43:58 2014
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References: <0D214496666346F3ABB9E396856552CB@AshleysPC>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 07:46:08 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: ashleys <ashleys@farmside.co.nz>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 - TR5 boot seal rubber
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I installed mine with the lip to the inside.  I was replacing the original
so I would have just copied what  was on the car (been 13 years ago so the
memory is dim).

Not all supplied seals are the same.  Here is the profile of the one I used:

http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/Ahwahnee18/media/TR4/Seal-2_zps39e73a91.jpg.html?sort=9&o=134

Here is someone else's:

http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/Ahwahnee18/media/TR4/Seal-1_zps90facf2f.jpg.html?sort=9&o=133

Alas - I do not recall off hand where I got mine.  The lid sits correctly
along the top but projects out a small amount along the bottom edge.  I do
not know that I can blame the seal for that.

I agree a softer seal would be easier to work with, though over time
(months maybe years) even the stiff one will take a suitable set.

I did have some trouble finding a glue that would hold the lower edge - it
wanted to pull away as the boot lid was closed -- I finally succeeded in
keeping it in place with Gorilla Glue.

Geo

On Wed, Nov 19, 2014 at 2:23 AM, ashleys <ashleys@farmside.co.nz> wrote:

> Hi!,
> Which is the correct way to fit boot rubber,ie the lip on one side is
> fitted
> outwards or inwards.I am having trouble to find a softer rubber seal so
> boot
> lid sits down even.
> Many thanks
>
> Ashley
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 19 20:31:05 2014
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From: Stephen Oertwig <oertwig@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 22:31:31 -0500
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 2000 Mk 2.  Replaced the strut cartridges in 1989, and now have a
leaking cartridge.  Have not been able to find Stag or 2000 strut cartridges
in the United States at all.

Any suggestions please?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 19 20:47:53 2014
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Stephen Oertwig" <oertwig@mac.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1C72F8D1-5296-44C5-B374-754C367708A1@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2014 21:50:58 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Rock auto lists a KYB strut cartridge for a stag  http://www.rockauto.com/

Greg Lemon
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Stephen Oertwig" <oertwig@mac.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:31 PM
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges

> I have a 2000 Mk 2.  Replaced the strut cartridges in 1989, and now have a
> leaking cartridge.  Have not been able to find Stag or 2000 strut 
> cartridges
> in the United States at all.
>
> Any suggestions please?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2014 02:14:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Chad <triumph74tr6@yahoo.com>
To: Stephen Oertwig <oertwig@mac.com>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <1C72F8D1-5296-44C5-B374-754C367708A1@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

www.rockauto.com has them.B Chad in Tulsa.
      From: Stephen Oertwig <oertwig@mac.com>
 To: triumphs@autox.team.net
 Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:31 PM
 Subject: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges

I have a 2000 Mk 2.B  Replaced the strut cartridges in 1989, and now have a
leaking cartridge.B  Have not been able to find Stag or 2000 strut cartridges
in the United States at all.

Any suggestions please?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6@yahoo.com

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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 19:41:20 +0000 (UTC)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr-3 diff. oil seal or speedi sleeve or both?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I continually get diff leaks (newly restored tr-3)B  always dripping from the
bottom of cover, however I've taken the cover off, cleaned up the mating
service to fit nicely against the diff and also put on a thicker gasket.B 
Made sure the overflow tube is open.B  Still leaking.B  Next step is pinion
area.B  I'm thinking it's leaking there and blowing back to bottom of diff
then dripping off.B  Make sense?B  Any other opinions?
Winter project will be dropping drive shaft at diff, removing oil seal and
installing oil seal and possibley speedi sleeve.B  What recommended?B  Only
speedi seal?B  only oil seal?B  or both?B 

Also I have a hell of a time finding TRF parts through the "search" click.B 
put in pinion, diff, speedi seal whatever.......usually hopeless.B  Moss is so
much easierB  but I love TRF and they're seemingly "homier" atmosphere.gary
n.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 22 13:15:49 2014
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From: Dean Tetterton <tr3a58@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 15:18:52 -0500
References: <1C72F8D1-5296-44C5-B374-754C367708A1@mac.com>
To: Stephen Oertwig <oertwig@mac.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stag front strut cartridges
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve
           I have one NOS Stag strut left from when I
had a Stag. Still need one?

Dean T.


On Nov 19, 2014, at 10:31 PM, Stephen Oertwig wrote:

> I have a 2000 Mk 2.  Replaced the strut cartridges in 1989, and now have a
> leaking cartridge.  Have not been able to find Stag or 2000 strut
cartridges
> in the United States at all.
>
> Any suggestions please?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58@verizon.net

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 22 16:19:34 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Gary Nafziger'" <nafzigerg@yahoo.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 15:22:35 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAGjE/vYoTY/ZqPTfSSZvlFYcTjpgAHQZ0w
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-3 diff. oil seal or speedi sleeve or both?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'm thinking it's leaking there and blowing back to 
> bottom of diff
> then dripping off.B  Make sense?

Yup, that's what mine was doing.

> What recommended?B  Only
> speedi seal?B  only oil seal?B  or both?B 

If you open it up, I would definitely replace the seal.  If you can polish away the mark left by the seal on the surface of the
flange, then you probably don't need a Speedi-sleeve.

> Also I have a hell of a time finding TRF parts through the 
> "search" click.B 
> put in pinion, diff, speedi seal whatever.......usually 
> hopeless.B 

It works much better to first look up what you need in the factory 'Spare Parts Catalogue' and then use the TRF database search
function on that number.  I actually keep an icon on my toolbar that opens the PDF version of the SPC; which you can download from
http://tinyurl.com/q5lx2gw

As far as I know, Moss & TRF don't offer a Speedi-sleeve to fit.  You'll need to pick that up at your local NAPA or perhaps RockAuto
has them listed.  One of my local NAPA stores doesn't even carry the Speedi-sleeve brand any more, but the other store could order
it for me.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 22 17:53:12 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:56:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] 63 TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

the dash support b looks like its black crackle paint?

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 22 18:33:28 2014
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Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:37:01 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
To: dave n <dave@ranteer.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 63 TR4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

That how mine is (a 64 TR4).

Geo

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 5:56 PM, dave n <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> the dash support b  looks like its black crackle paint?
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 24 16:04:14 2014
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Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:07:43 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: Triumphs List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [TR] off topic due to winter
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This post is in reply to those members who share their home brew during 
various Triumph get togethers during the year.

I have finally taken the plunge and brewed my own beer/ale.

In order to learn the "craft", I decided to buy a kit from a local 
beer/wine supply store.

Since I always liked the British Bitters I had in England back in the 
early 80's, I tried Coopers British Bitters.

Well I have to say it turned out pretty good.

It is a bit darker than the John Courage Bitters I had in England, it 
does taste pretty good.

A strong hoppy flavor but not to "heavy".

My next batch will be an American Pale Ale brewed from scratch using 
some of my home grown Cascade hops I grew this summer.

Now I will have to get to one of those Triumph get togethers so I can 
share my beer/ale with others.

My first crop of hops yielded about 2 oz. I am hoping for a better crop 
next year.

As far as Triumphs are concerned, I removed the battery from the 6 last 
Saturday. The 3 and 4 have been sleeping since August since it was the 
6's turn. My garage only allows one car to be used at a time. (Triumph 
content).

Here is hoping for a short warmer Winter.

Bob

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References: <5473BA3F.5090308@adelphia.net>
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Hey Bob,

> Well I have to say it turned out pretty good. It is a bit darker than the
John Courage Bitters I had in England, it does taste pretty good. A strong
hoppy flavor but not to "heavy".
> Now I will have to get to one of those Triumph get togethers so I can
share my beer/ale with others.

I'm sure we all endorse your generous philanthropy and everyone would love
to attend at your place, but................

....... if it really is that good, a Master Brewer needs lots of time and
even more tasting to get the 'mix' absolutely right - for him, and this is
usually best done alone:) If you let in the world and his brother for
comment, you'll end up with a beer that no-one really likes. Get a few
firkins ready ...................... :)

Jonmac


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From: MICHAELMARR5258 <michaelmarr5258@comcast.net>
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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 24 17:50:49 2014
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From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: MICHAELMARR5258 <michaelmarr5258@comcast.net>,  triumphs List
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Subject: Re: [TR] off topic due to winter
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Mike,

You are correct not bitters but bitter.  I did use Coopers Bitter for my 
first brew.

Here is a link to where I purchased the kit:

http://www.kggrowbrew.com/coopers-international-series-english-bitter/

Sorry for the confusion.

Just pounded down a few with a friend.

And I am just 1/2 Limey. I guess that is the reason for the mis-quote.

Bob



On 11/24/2014 07:13 PM, MICHAELMARR5258 wrote:
> Not to be pedantic, but the English draft (draught) beer you are 
> referring to is "bitter", not "bitters".  Bitters is an entirely 
> different drink, used to flavor (flavour) cocktails.  I doubt that any 
> of us could drink a pint of the stuff!
>
> http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitters
>
> From your friendly Limey-in-residence,
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App
>
>
> --

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Nov 24 17:53:11 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "Triumphs List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <5473BA3F.5090308@adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:55:55 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] off topic due to winter
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since we clearly need something to talk about (oh, wait, I meant something 
about which to talk), and you mentioned fitting only one car in, thought I'd 
mention that I have a more or less standard garage, and I have found that I 
can put one sideways across the back (on skates) and three wide in front! 
of course, they are literally inches apart.  I push them in to ensure they 
don't touch.

and I'll order a pint!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Labuz
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 5:07 PM
To: Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] off topic due to winter

This post is in reply to those members who share their home brew during
various Triumph get togethers during the year.

I have finally taken the plunge and brewed my own beer/ale.

In order to learn the "craft", I decided to buy a kit from a local
beer/wine supply store.

Since I always liked the British Bitters I had in England back in the
early 80's, I tried Coopers British Bitters.

Well I have to say it turned out pretty good.

It is a bit darker than the John Courage Bitters I had in England, it
does taste pretty good.

A strong hoppy flavor but not to "heavy".

My next batch will be an American Pale Ale brewed from scratch using
some of my home grown Cascade hops I grew this summer.

Now I will have to get to one of those Triumph get togethers so I can
share my beer/ale with others.

My first crop of hops yielded about 2 oz. I am hoping for a better crop
next year.

As far as Triumphs are concerned, I removed the battery from the 6 last
Saturday. The 3 and 4 have been sleeping since August since it was the
6's turn. My garage only allows one car to be used at a time. (Triumph
content).

Here is hoping for a short warmer Winter.

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From: MICHAELMARR5258 <michaelmarr5258@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 09:09:14 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Removing carpet glue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

The previous owner of my TR6 replaced the original carpet years ago with a
cheap black carpet set that he glued in place.  Late last night I managed
to get all of the carpet pulled up and am now looking for methods of
removing the old glue (brown in color) from the floorboards and elsewhere.

>From my brief google searches it seems that carpet glue is close to
impossible to remove.  this is not exactly what I wanted to hear!

Any suggestions on methods that you've tried that actually worked?

I'm hoping to get this task done over the Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks!

Brad
1972 TR6
1963 TR4

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 07:38:40 2014
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 09:41:46 -0500
From: Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.2.0
To: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLHc95-XDCu0D32Oapyhi0=4a=45y1w0pxn3DFFprmXB_A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing carpet glue
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It may have been glued down with contact cement. I googled removing this 
from metal and got lots of hits.

This url is for a product from Home Depot.
http://tinyurl.com/odg8qfw

Doug
On 11/25/2014 9:09 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
> The previous owner of my TR6 replaced the original carpet years ago with a
> cheap black carpet set that he glued in place.  Late last night I managed
> to get all of the carpet pulled up and am now looking for methods of
> removing the old glue (brown in color) from the floorboards and elsewhere.
>
> >From my brief google searches it seems that carpet glue is close to
> impossible to remove.  this is not exactly what I wanted to hear!
>
> Any suggestions on methods that you've tried that actually worked?
>
> I'm hoping to get this task done over the Thanksgiving weekend.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 1972 TR6
> 1963 TR4

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 <5474952A.9060104@uga.edu>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 09:49:41 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: mathews@uga.edu
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing carpet glue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Doug, thanks for the lead.  I didn't run across Klean Strip when googling
for carpet glue removal.  Didn't think about searching for adhesive
removal!

Looks like my local Lowes has it in stock so I'll give it a try.  Be
interesting to see what it does to paint.

Thanks,

Brad


On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 9:41 AM, Doug Mathews <mathews@uga.edu> wrote:

>  It may have been glued down with contact cement. I googled removing this
> from metal and got lots of hits.
>
> This url is for a product from Home Depot.
> http://tinyurl.com/odg8qfw
>
> Doug
>  On 11/25/2014 9:09 AM, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
> The previous owner of my TR6 replaced the original carpet years ago with a
> cheap black carpet set that he glued in place.  Late last night I managed
> to get all of the carpet pulled up and am now looking for methods of
> removing the old glue (brown in color) from the floorboards and elsewhere.
>
> >From my brief google searches it seems that carpet glue is close to
> impossible to remove.  this is not exactly what I wanted to hear!
>
> Any suggestions on methods that you've tried that actually worked?
>
> I'm hoping to get this task done over the Thanksgiving weekend.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 1972 TR6
> 1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 07:48:07 2014
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From: "John Macartney" <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
To: "'Brad Kahler'" <bkahler1@gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLHc95-XDCu0D32Oapyhi0=4a=45y1w0pxn3DFFprmXB_A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 14:51:44 -0000
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Subject: Re: [TR] Removing carpet glue
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

I had this trouble on one of my Triumphs. Removing it wasn't easy and in the
end I used paint thinners and a square-ended putty knife as a chisel. I also
ensured I kept my head into the open air as the fumes can be 'disturbing' :)

Jonmac

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad
Kahler
Sent: 25 November 2014 14:09
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Removing carpet glue

The previous owner of my TR6 replaced the original carpet years ago with a
cheap black carpet set that he glued in place.  Late last night I managed to
get all of the carpet pulled up and am now looking for methods of removing
the old glue (brown in color) from the floorboards and elsewhere.

>From my brief google searches it seems that carpet glue is close to
impossible to remove.  this is not exactly what I wanted to hear!

Any suggestions on methods that you've tried that actually worked?

I'm hoping to get this task done over the Thanksgiving weekend.

Thanks!

Brad
1972 TR6
1963 TR4

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 <003801d008bf$54f03af0$fed0b0d0$@ukpips.org.uk>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 10:00:00 -0500
From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1@gmail.com>
To: John Macartney <john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Removing carpet glue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Fumes are never fun.  I do have a chemical respirator that I wear when I'm
using chemicals.  I have enough issues as it is without adding more!

Thanks,

Brad


On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 9:51 AM, John Macartney <
john.macartney@ukpips.org.uk> wrote:

> I had this trouble on one of my Triumphs. Removing it wasn't easy and in
> the
> end I used paint thinners and a square-ended putty knife as a chisel. I
> also
> ensured I kept my head into the open air as the fumes can be 'disturbing'
> :)
>
> Jonmac
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad
> Kahler
> Sent: 25 November 2014 14:09
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Removing carpet glue
>
> The previous owner of my TR6 replaced the original carpet years ago with a
> cheap black carpet set that he glued in place.  Late last night I managed
> to
> get all of the carpet pulled up and am now looking for methods of removing
> the old glue (brown in color) from the floorboards and elsewhere.
>
> From my brief google searches it seems that carpet glue is close to
> impossible to remove.  this is not exactly what I wanted to hear!
>
> Any suggestions on methods that you've tried that actually worked?
>
> I'm hoping to get this task done over the Thanksgiving weekend.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
> 1972 TR6
> 1963 TR4
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 16:34:31 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <CADm3DLHc95-XDCu0D32Oapyhi0=4a=45y1w0pxn3DFFprmXB_A@mail.gmail.com>
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Thread-Topic: removing a broken bolt
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Subject: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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Yeesh.  Sometimes no matter how careful....
Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block when at "snug" the head twisted off.  Block was cold, pedestal 55 years old and may have been overtightened before...whatever.
Now I need to get it out.  Never had luck with curl-shank easy-outs.  Thought of drilling a hole and using a left-hand tap, then a left hand bolt to remove.  Any other thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 09:52:35 2014
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Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Terry,

Try an easy out. I have had good luck from time to time. But before you 
do, try some heat and candle wax before you attempt removal. Since the 
block is cast and the bolt is steel, should be enough to get some wax in 
the thread area.

Another trick I have used is to first heat, with wax, then cool with ice.

I did a similar thing installing the pressure plate on my 6. The easy 
out worked like a champ with the heat,  wax and cool method.

I also have seen Sears advertise something new for this task. Cant 
remember the name. May be worth a look on their website.

Bob

On 11/25/2014 11:34 AM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
> Yeesh.  Sometimes no matter how careful....
> Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block when at "snug" the head twisted off.  Block was cold, pedestal 55 years old and may have been overtightened before...whatever.
> Now I need to get it out.  Never had luck with curl-shank easy-outs.  Thought of drilling a hole and using a left-hand tap, then a left hand bolt to remove.  Any other thoughts?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 10:13:20 2014
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 11:16:19 -0600
From: Philip Ethier <pethier7@gmail.com>
To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

When drilling for an easy-out, always use a left-hand drill.  Often the
vibration and torque of drilling loosens the bolt.  At least, it does not
tighten it!

On Tue, Nov 25, 2014 at 10:55 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net> wrote:

> Terry,
>
> Try an easy out. I have had good luck from time to time. But before you
> do, try some heat and candle wax before you attempt removal. Since the
> block is cast and the bolt is steel, should be enough to get some wax in
> the thread area.
>
> Another trick I have used is to first heat, with wax, then cool with ice.
>
> I did a similar thing installing the pressure plate on my 6. The easy out
> worked like a champ with the heat,  wax and cool method.
>
> I also have seen Sears advertise something new for this task. Cant
> remember the name. May be worth a look on their website.
>
> Bob
>
> On 11/25/2014 11:34 AM, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Yeesh.  Sometimes no matter how careful....
>> Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block when at
>> "snug" the head twisted off.  Block was cold, pedestal 55 years old and may
>> have been overtightened before...whatever.
>> Now I need to get it out.  Never had luck with curl-shank easy-outs.
>> Thought of drilling a hole and using a left-hand tap, then a left hand bolt
>> to remove.  Any other thoughts?
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>> New Hampshire
>
>
pethier@comcast.net still works also
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited, Regal Blue Pearl
http://www.mnautox.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 10:14:45 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>, "'Triumphs'" <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 09:16:55 -0800
Thread-Index: AQF6VHmnBlsIvTXavDnLZsIjRdT9k50c1QOwuzcLkf3EyRyJwA==
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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> Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block 
> when at "snug" the head twisted off.

If this is a TR3A, the pedestal screws into the front plate, not the block.  They are staked into place originally, so the threads
may have been damaged by removing it.

Best route is probably to remove the plate, then drill & tap for a Helicoil.  Or, I believe Joe A. still sells new plates.

-- Randall  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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 {sentby:smtp auth 173.31.234.34 authed with tony@tonydrews.com}
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

If the top of the bolt is near the surface, I've had good luck on 
rocker pedestal studs just using a small chisel and a hammer.  If 
there's a little protrusion of any sort, use the corner of the chisel 
against it and tap lightly with the hammer to try to rotate it in the 
direction of removal.  If you're lucky the remaining chunk will start 
turning and you can unscrew it this way.

Tony Drews

At 10:34 AM 11/25/2014, terryrs@comcast.net wrote:
>Yeesh.  Sometimes no matter how careful....
>Carefully ratcheted the timing cover pedestal into the block when at 
>"snug" the head twisted off.  Block was cold, pedestal 55 years old 
>and may have been overtightened before...whatever.
>Now I need to get it out.  Never had luck with curl-shank 
>easy-outs.  Thought of drilling a hole and using a left-hand tap, 
>then a left hand bolt to remove.  Any other thoughts?
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>New Hampshire
>
>** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 19:06:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
References: <70.02.13274.289B4745@cdptpa-oedge02>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: removing a broken bolt
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Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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>If this is a TR3A, the pedestal screws into the front plate, not the block.  They are staked into place originally, so the threads
>may have been damaged by removing it.


Hmmm. Interesting.  Maybe this is the differnce.  I actually sourced an abused TR4 engine, unknown vintage, to rebuild as a spare for the 3A, and picked up a used front plate thinking that was the only mod (other than the carb manifold).  While the chain tensioner pedestal plate hole was threaded, the pedestal hole for the timing cover was not.  Instead, there was a bolt hole in the block behind it.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault@verizon.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8925.1416934325.2012.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 14:23:09 -0500
Thread-index: AdAI1nFDP8EQAjf/Q/ONcGbCaXCYwgADQQJQ
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Labuz wrote:


You are correct not bitters but bitter.  I did use Coopers Bitter for my
first brew.
<snip>

And I am just 1/2 Limey. I guess that is the reason for the mis-quote.
----------------------------

I just got DNA results back from Ancestry.com and discovered some
interesting things.  1.  No native American in spite of what my parents told
me. 2 I'm something like 45% British and 25% Italian Greek.  This was a bit
of a shock since my last name is L'Herault, very French and based on a
region in southern France.  Turns out that the sphere covered by the Italian
Greek DNA stretches into southern France.   Now to bring this back on topic,
I guess the heavy British gene is why I'm driving a Triumph and not a
Citroen, and it may be why I like the darker British Ales rather than the
American stuff generally available.  Give me a Newcastle Brown or (don't' I
wish I could still get it here) McEwans Scotch Ale.

I took the battery out of my TR-6 last week after taking it for a last drive
on a warm day before the predicted cold snap.  I had to jump it to get it
going and the next day the battery was almost flat again. I had to jump it
to get it out of its stall so that I could do some work in the area so I
used the opportunity to confirm that the alternator was charging (around 14V
if I recall correctly). I gave it a full charge before putting it on the
maintainer but I think it may be holding less and less of its charge as the
days go by.   Looks like a new battery will be my first spring purchase for
the TR-6.

Ron L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrokenBolt.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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To: lherault@verizon.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My brewing related story needs no excuse since it has inherent Triumph
content.  I was at the auction at the 2007 VTR in Valley Forge  and I 
was
beeing introduced to the Single Malt Society (Thanks, Tom Fansher) 
and I was
chatting up another fellow when I glanced down at the auction 
and someone
was holding up an old Ballentine Beer sign.  Since the 
bidding was at about
$8 I thought I would bid.  I won.  Next thing I 
knew three guys were headed
my way, one with the sign and the other two 
with boxes of what turned out to
be a brewing kit.  My first thought 
was "Oh, crap, that's all I need,
another hobby."  I was tempted to 
take the sign home and leave the rest in
the hotel room but I have too 
much Scotts in my for that.  Since then I have
brewed at least half a 
dozen batches but they have all been kits from
Brewer's Best ( 
http://www.brewersbestkits.com/) (since that is what the
local vendors 
sell) and I have been mostly happy with the results.  I'm not
a big fan 
of hops and brewing allows me to tailor the recipe and add less
than 
the full amount of hops supplied.  This allows the flavour of the malt
to shine.

I have not done any DNA tests but the geneology research I've
seen 
suggest that I am a typical heinz 57 mut with ancestors from France,
Germany, Scotland, Ireland and quite heavily from England.  Perhaps 
that is
why I prefer my wines from France, my beer in the English style 
and the best
whisky is from Scotland.

Ok, ok, Triumph content.  My 8 (or 9) year old
Optima is giving up the 
ghost as well.  Even with the gear reduction starter
it barely turns 
over and the voltage drops so low that the ignition will not
spark and 
the car won't start.  But I will wait until spring to replace it
since 
it will be stashed away for the winter.

Dave Massey
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron L'Herault <lherault@verizon.net>


I
guess the heavy British gene is why I'm driving a Triumph and not a
Citroen,
and it may be why I like the darker British Ales rather than 
the
American
stuff generally available.  Give me a Newcastle Brown or 
(don't' I
wish I
could still get it here) McEwans Scotch Ale.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 21:08:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
To: Ron L'Herault <lherault@verizon.net>,  "triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <006701d008e5$3fab2c60$bf018520$@net>
Subject: Re: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ronyour last name of L'Herault is very British/Englishthe last time England
was conquered by a foreign force was in 1066 by William of Normandy France. he
had some claim that he was rightfully owed the kingdom. i forget what that
claim was.after his conquest he brought many B noble men form France to give
him better allies than the conquered English. French became the language of
the nobility for some time.B but as time passed the french and old english
where intermingled to give us some of what we have today.
as one gets further south in England you discover many named places that are
obviously very french, and many street names and suburbs of London bear to
that also.my cousins are all Molyneux's another french name from the past.
despite the name they couldn't be more scouse!!
B  B and recent studies in liverpool have shown that only 12% can perform math
percentages. the other 95% have no idea what math is.
FrankB B B B 




     From: Ron L'Herault <lherault@verizon.net>
 To: triumphs@autox.team.net
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2014 11:23 AM
 Subject: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery

Bob Labuz wrote:


You are correct not bitters but bitter.B  I did use Coopers Bitter for my
first brew.
<snip>

And I am just 1/2 Limey. I guess that is the reason for the mis-quote.
----------------------------

I just got DNA results back from Ancestry.com and discovered some
interesting things.B  1.B  No native American in spite of what my parents
told
me. 2 I'm something like 45% British and 25% Italian Greek.B  This was a bit
of a shock since my last name is L'Herault, very French and based on a
region in southern France.B  Turns out that the sphere covered by the Italian
Greek DNA stretches into southern France.B  Now to bring this back on topic,
I guess the heavy British gene is why I'm driving a Triumph and not a
Citroen, and it may be why I like the darker British Ales rather than the
American stuff generally available.B  Give me a Newcastle Brown or (don't' I
wish I could still get it here) McEwans Scotch Ale.

I took the battery out of my TR-6 last week after taking it for a last drive
on a warm day before the predicted cold snap.B  I had to jump it to get it
going and the next day the battery was almost flat again. I had to jump it
to get it out of its stall so that I could do some work in the area so I
used the opportunity to confirm that the alternator was charging (around 14V
if I recall correctly). I gave it a full charge before putting it on the
maintainer but I think it may be holding less and less of its charge as the
days go by.B  Looks like a new battery will be my first spring purchase for
the TR-6.

Ron L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yahoo.com

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From: "Fisher, Ed" <edwd@ti.com>
To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: removing broken bolt
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 21:31:41 +0000
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Subject: [TR] removing broken bolt
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I second the left-handed drill posting.  That, and I use a product made by
Kano Labs called either Aero Kroil or Sili Kroil, both with equal success.  I
am judicious where I use any silicone products since I do refinishing of
automobiles and the silicone is the bane of paint adhesion.  Anyway, let the
Kano product soak for a while.  The longer the better.  I sprayed a crank
pulley once on a Chevy 327 after tightening the puller so much so that I
thought one more oomph would snap something.  I dribbled a little Aero Kroil
on the joint, crank to pulley, and went about my business of setting the valve
clearances on the heads.  After about 40 minutes the pulley let go with such a
bang that I almost wet myself, since the block was on a stand right behind me.
It sounded like a gun going off.  That was the most vivid demonstration of
penetrating fluid creep that I had ever experienced.

Ed
Dallas, Tx

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard@uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery
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Every country, state or even city has its rivalries.  I live halfway between
Ann Arbor and East Lansing and am more than aware of the Michigan - Michigan
State loyalties.

But the best story is when I was in medical school in Edinburgh, Scotland. I
was in a physiology lecture when the lecturer pointed out that, due to its
poor diet and lack of sunlight, Glasgow had "the highest incidence of
rickets in the civilized world".  To which a joker behind me shouted out,
"Since when has Glasgow ever been in the civilized world?"

Andrew Uprichard
Born in Ireland
Studied in Scotland
Retired in Michigan.  What??

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank
Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2014 4:09 PM
To: Ron L'Herault; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery

Ronyour last name of L'Herault is very British/Englishthe last time England
was conquered by a foreign force was in 1066 by William of Normandy France.
he had some claim that he was rightfully owed the kingdom. i forget what
that claim was.after his conquest he brought many B noble men form France to
give him better allies than the conquered English. French became the
language of the nobility for some time.B but as time passed the french and
old english where intermingled to give us some of what we have today.
as one gets further south in England you discover many named places that are
obviously very french, and many street names and suburbs of London bear to
that also.my cousins are all Molyneux's another french name from the past.
despite the name they couldn't be more scouse!!
B  B and recent studies in liverpool have shown that only 12% can perform
math percentages. the other 95% have no idea what math is.
FrankB B B B 




     From: Ron L'Herault <lherault@verizon.net>
 To: triumphs@autox.team.net
 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2014 11:23 AM
 Subject: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery

Bob Labuz wrote:


You are correct not bitters but bitter.B  I did use Coopers Bitter for my
first brew.
<snip>

And I am just 1/2 Limey. I guess that is the reason for the mis-quote.
----------------------------

I just got DNA results back from Ancestry.com and discovered some
interesting things.B  1.B  No native American in spite of what my parents
told me. 2 I'm something like 45% British and 25% Italian Greek.B  This was
a bit of a shock since my last name is L'Herault, very French and based on a
region in southern France.B  Turns out that the sphere covered by the
Italian Greek DNA stretches into southern France.B  Now to bring this back
on topic, I guess the heavy British gene is why I'm driving a Triumph and
not a Citroen, and it may be why I like the darker British Ales rather than
the American stuff generally available.B  Give me a Newcastle Brown or
(don't' I wish I could still get it here) McEwans Scotch Ale.

I took the battery out of my TR-6 last week after taking it for a last drive
on a warm day before the predicted cold snap.B  I had to jump it to get it
going and the next day the battery was almost flat again. I had to jump it
to get it out of its stall so that I could do some work in the area so I
used the opportunity to confirm that the alternator was charging (around 14V
if I recall correctly). I gave it a full charge before putting it on the
maintainer but I think it may be holding less and less of its charge as the
days go by.B  Looks like a new battery will be my first spring purchase for
the TR-6.

Ron L

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 16:21:40 2014
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2014 23:24:38 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 23:24:38 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] SPAM: Re:  DNA, Bob, beer and battery
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---- Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote: 
> My 8 (or 9) year old Optima is giving up the 
> ghost as well. 

Sounds like a ringing endorsement to me.  I took my 4 year old "72 month" battery back to O'Reillys a couple of weeks ago, and had to argue with them to get any adjustment at all on a new battery.  Turns out, their batteries are now only warrantied for 2 years! (Which is no longer indicated on the battery at all.)

I only bought from them in the first place because the old one died on the way to TRfest and O'Reillys was the only local place open to 10 PM.  Unless that happens again, I won't be back.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: terryrs@comcast.net
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 2014 23:31:36 +0000
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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---- terryrs@comcast.net wrote: 

> Hmmm. Interesting.  Maybe this is the differnce.  I actually sourced an abused TR4 engine, unknown vintage, to rebuild as a spare for the 3A, and picked up a used front plate thinking that was the only mod (other than the carb manifold).  While the chain tensioner pedestal plate hole was threaded, the pedestal hole for the timing cover was not.  Instead, there was a bolt hole in the block behind it.

I'll have to double-check when I get home.  It's possible I have the two of them confused.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 16:33:47 2014
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From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Not only that but I've run this battery pretty much flat at least once.

I
bought a new battery from O'Reilly for the Olds last year.  I hope I 
have
better luck than that.  On the other hand the one I replaced was 
four years
old.

Dave Massey



-----Original Message-----
From: Randall
<tr3driver@ca.rr.com>

---- Dave <dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
> My 8 (or 9)
year old Optima is giving up the
> ghost as well.

Sounds like a ringing
endorsement to me.  I took my 4 year old "72 
month"
battery back to
O'Reillys a couple of weeks ago, and had to argue with 
them to
get any
adjustment at all on a new battery.  Turns out, their batteries 
are now
only warrantied for 2 years! (Which is no longer indicated on the 
battery at
all.)

I only bought from them in the first place because the old one died
on 
the way
to TRfest and O'Reillys was the only local place open to 10 PM.
Unless 
that
happens again, I won't be back.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Nov 25 16:41:50 2014
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From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] DNA, Bob, beer and battery
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What's the difference between Glasgow and Edinburgh?

Being posh in
Edinburgh means you have one of those fancy tile roofs.
Being posh in Glasgow
means you have a roof.

Dave Massey, chairman, Piping and Drumming
Competition,
St. Louis Scottish Games and Cultural Festival
http://www.stlouis-scottishgames.com/

(BTW that is pronounced "Edinbora)
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
Every country, state or even city has its rivalries.  I live halfway 
between
Ann Arbor and East Lansing and am more than aware of the Michigan - 
Michigan
State loyalties.

But the best story is when I was in medical school in
Edinburgh, 
Scotland. I
was in a physiology lecture when the lecturer
pointed out that, due to 
its
poor diet and lack of sunlight, Glasgow had
"the highest incidence of
rickets in the civilized world".  To which a joker
behind me shouted 
out,
"Since when has Glasgow ever been in the civilized
world?"

Andrew Uprichard
Born in Ireland
Studied in Scotland
Retired in
Michigan.  What??

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Subject: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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Here's a method I have had good success with removing broken bolts or 
rounded out Phillips screw heads. Cut a relatively deep slot across the 
surface of the bolt or screw. Exposed surfaces can be cut with a hack 
saw or the blade of a thin cutting blade on an angle grinder. For 
recessed surfaces, I've used a Dremel tool with a small tip to reach 
down the hole and cut the slot. This can be tricky, and may require 
trying different tips for various situations. Forntunately, there is a 
multitude of tips and cutting attachments made for these tools. Then use 
an appropriate sized flat head screwdriver to turn it out. if you can't 
turn it with a regular screwdriver, try one of the screwdriver tips that 
can be used with a ratchet.Use this method in conjunction with the other 
suggestions of wax, heating, cooling, etc.

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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> On Nov 25, 2014, at 7:05 PM,<brianharlan@scrtc.com
>
> Then use
> an appropriate sized flat head screwdriver to turn it out. if you can't
> turn it with a regular screwdriver, try one of the screwdriver tips that
> can be used with a ratchet.Use this method in conjunction with the other
> suggestions of wax, heating, cooling, etc.
b& or, you can check with your FLAPS for an impact driver. Basically, a unit
like a chisel with a screwdriver tip that when struck with a hammer, turns the
tip and simultaneously delivers an impact to the head.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Nov 26 12:29:01 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <terryrs@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2014 11:32:04 -0800
Thread-Index: AQF6VHmnBlsIvTXavDnLZsIjRdT9k50c1QOwuzcLkf3EyRyJwC5QS0V5/o8pNCA=
Cc: 'Triumphs' <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] removing a broken bolt
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

>   While 
> the chain tensioner pedestal plate hole was threaded, the 
> pedestal hole for the timing cover was not.  Instead, there 
> was a bolt hole in the block behind it.

Apologies to all; Terry has it right.  I was thinking of the pivot for the tensioner; the cover support does thread into the block
through a hole in the plate.

D'oh!

-- Randall

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 27 09:26:02 2014
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Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 11:29:38 -0500
From: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: "stag@digest.net" <stag@digest.net>,  "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Hylomar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

   I need to order some Hylomar, but I notice now there are several 
types available including "blue", type M, etc.  Which would be closest 
to old fashioned Hylomar.  Thanks for any info.  John Mitchell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 27 09:36:13 2014
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Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 11:39:53 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
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To: john Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>,  "Triumphs@autox.team.net"
 <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <54775172.5070200@snet.net>
 a=TGdWY25KQovz78N+ylr7Fw==:117 a=TGdWY25KQovz78N+ylr7Fw==:17
 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=ML7vOrLOuCUA:10 a=N659UExz7-8A:10 a=f8qcBMrUAAAA:8
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Subject: Re: [TR] Hylomar
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

The tube I have is blue. I used it on my 3, 4 and 6 and it is the best 
sealer I have ever used.

Bob

On 11/27/2014 11:29 AM, john Mitchell wrote:
>   I need to order some Hylomar, but I notice now there are several 
> types available including "blue", type M, etc.  Which would be closest 
> to old fashioned Hylomar.  Thanks for any info.  John Mitchell

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Nov 27 17:29:36 2014
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From: "Chuck White" <triumph.driver@gmail.com>
To: "'TR list'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 19:33:15 -0500
Thread-Index: AdAKouPYdA3A/fBvQdScqYj9yuUpjQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A for sale in Xenia, Ohio
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibve decided to sell my 1965 TR4A.   Here is the Hemmings ad.



Chuck



http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/tr4a/1700200.html

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 28 09:12:13 2014
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From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara@msn.com>
To: "Listers" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 08:15:20 -0800
Seal-Send-Time: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 08:15:20 -0800
 FILETIME=[7C37F850:01D00B26]
Subject: [TR] hylomar
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   Old fashioned blue is no longer made by Hylomar in the UK = the original
guys.

You now must choose between AF and M.  M is closest to old blue.

The difference is M, like old blue, should sit for a little while before you
attach the part.  It has solvents that need to evaporate.  AF has no solvents.

AF also is more fluid than M, so is recommended for certain applications.

Old blue, I believe, is still marketed by some suppliers, but it is a private
label.  Not direct, actual Hylomar.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 28 10:27:13 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Peter Arakelian'" <peterara@msn.com>, "'Listers'"
 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 09:30:19 -0800
Thread-Index: AdALJn5WM+zEkkg6SMWNo7ZzrkyKfQACbWew
Subject: Re: [TR] hylomar
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>    Old fashioned blue is no longer made by Hylomar in the UK 
> = the original
> guys.
> 
> You now must choose between AF and M.  M is closest to old blue.

Funny, you'd think they would update their web site:
http://tinyurl.com/oaw75k4

These people are in the USA, but seem to think they are getting the real thing:
http://tinyurl.com/n57xldy

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 28 13:32:48 2014
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References: <54775172.5070200@snet.net> <547753D9.6080302@adelphia.net>
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 15:36:02 -0500
To: list Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Hylomar
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

  I bought some from Amazon recently.

http://tinyurl.com/kr5zvdk

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Nov 28 16:57:27 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <54775172.5070200@snet.net> <547753D9.6080302@adelphia.net>
 <CANhzkeOohP=H_CwBzt-RQhMr16Nm-t8i+YyPc=fa+q=y3sf4Rw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 17:47:37 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] Hylomar
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Black Friday - they are offering free shipping.  just got it.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Simo 
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2014 2:36 PM 
To: list Triumph 
Subject: Re: [TR] Hylomar 

  I bought some from Amazon recently.

http://tinyurl.com/kr5zvdk

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 12:18:53 2014
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From: Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 13:21:51 -0600
To: Listserv Triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
x-aol-global-disposition: G
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Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A  back panel in black available
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

List

This is an exceptional piece from my personal TR3A. Needs no restoration.

I replaced the interior with the optional back seat in TS30854L

Can provide pictures.

Next stop eBay.

$150 plus shipping.

Joe Alexander
645 1st Street
Jesup, IA 50648
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell:  319.464.4711

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Nov 29 20:58:22 2014
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From: john-marie@sbcglobal.net
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2014 22:01:33 -0600
To: "<triumphs@autox.team.net>" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A fuel lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi List,
Have installed Victoria British supplied 5/16" copper fuel line from tank to
pump.  My TR4A has    Z-S carbs and uses the carb to carb pipe with a "T".  I
have this pipe and it is reusable.  It did not come with the VB kit.  This
original pipe is 1/4", as is the pipe that runs to it from the pump.  The VB
kit has a 40" length of 5/6" pipe to get from pump to carbs, but I need 1/4"
pipe.  Before I look for a length of 1/4" pipe from another source, or figure
out how to step down at the carbs, thought I'd ask the List if anyone has had
this issue.  Thanks.
John DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 07:14:21 2014
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From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt@fuse.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 09:16:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Broken speedometer cable - again-
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My TR4A speedometer cable broke again yesterday!
The needle on the second speedometer was kind of wobbly so I suspect part of
the problem is the speedometer itself but I think I would like to know if
anybody has any ideas. I am on my second or third cable since I got the car
running last year.
Anyway, I would appriciate any tips on keeping my speedometer working..
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

http://www.davestr4a.com

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 07:40:08 2014
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 09:43:49 -0500
From: Jeff <fishplate@charter.net>
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <54775172.5070200@snet.net> <547753D9.6080302@adelphia.net>
 <CANhzkeOohP=H_CwBzt-RQhMr16Nm-t8i+YyPc=fa+q=y3sf4Rw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Hylomar
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On 11/28/2014 3:36 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
>    I bought some from Amazon recently.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/kr5zvdk

Zoro Tools -- Home of good bargains and confusing web sites - has 
several varieties at popular prices.

http://www.zoro.com/s/?q=hylomar

Don't be fooled by the pictures - click through to see the descriptions. 
  Why they separate them like that is a mystery...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 09:45:52 2014
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 16:48:55 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs@comcast.net
To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <9ABAC0026ED74AB89B55004BBFEC78A4@DaveLaptop>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Broken speedometer cable - again-
Thread-Index: jTIVgUSHkB4Vmntss/y2+g3SW4Kz/Q==
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Broken speedometer cable - again-
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>I am on my second or third cable since I got the car
>running last year.
>Anyway, I would appriciate any tips on keeping my speedometer working..

Ditto here! Mine broke last month.  I have a replacement but haven't installed it yet.  

Are there different speedo cables for OD's?  That make a difference?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 09:58:14 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt@fuse.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 09:01:15 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAMqGHiDxtl9w51R3yBdvluXscBcAAFLfrQ
Subject: Re: [TR] Broken speedometer cable - again-
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> My TR4A speedometer cable broke again yesterday!
> The needle on the second speedometer was kind of wobbly so I 
> suspect part of
> the problem is the speedometer itself but I think I would 
> like to know if
> anybody has any ideas.

That is exactly my idea; I've seen it several times.  Inside the speedo, there is a steel shaft that rides in a porous bronze
bushing.  When it gets old, the oil dries up and the bushing starts to bind just a little bit.  The speedometer still works, because
the shaft still turns, but it puts extra strain on the cable (and angle drive for cars that have one).  But the friction also
generates heat, which drives the oil out even more, and also tends to make the bushing grab the shaft harder.  Eventually, the cable
can't deal with the extra load, and breaks.

When I bought Stag #2, the previous owner had just "fixed" the speedometer by replacing the angle drive.  Speedo worked fine for
about 100 miles (on the way home) then the angle drive broke again.  When I got home, the speedo still worked, but I could feel the
drag in that bushing.  Added some lubrication to the bushing, and the replacement angle drive was still working fine at least 10,000
miles later (the car is off the road for other reasons).

The trip and odometer mechanisms also dry out and bind up (the ones on my TR3 were actually rusty inside), which adds load to the
cable and, at least in my case, caused fairly wide swings in the needle at speed.  The ratchet action that drives the dials means
the dials are only connected to the cable part of the time.  The needle drops down, because the speedo shaft is actually turning
slower as the inner cable twists under the extra load.  Then the ratchet lifts, disconnecting the dial, and the needle rises above
truth as the inner cable untwists.  If you've ever bent a wire back and forth until it breaks, you can see why the constant twisting
and untwisting shortens the life of the cable.

Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 10:09:40 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 09:13:18 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAMwO+hH+79FSQjR4eGogFHVL0unQ==
Subject: Re: [TR] Broken speedometer cable - again-
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Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> Are there different speedo cables for OD's?  That make a difference?

Yes, but for TR2-6, the difference is only the length and whether an angle drive is used.  The cable works the same.

In case anyone doesn't have it, here's a link to Tony Rhodes' speedo article:
http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/PDF/speedo.pdf

-- Randall  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 10:40:41 2014
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'dave n'" <dave@ranteer.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 09:44:19 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAMSg2olR1qxrzSSHiVBMJR/7s+vAAdwUqw
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

> I replaced the temp sensor with an older one I had around, 
> and as far as I
> know is working, same result.  tested it with hot water; get 
> about 100%
> connectivity using my tester when cold; drops way off when hot.

There's something wrong with this picture.  The sender resistance should be relatively high when cold, and go down as it gets hot.

> hook up the used gages, voltage regulator, wire it up battery 
> to vr (grounded)
> to gage to sensor in car, it pins right when the car is 
> warmed up.  same for
> other gage.

How did you connect to the sender?  If it was through the car's wiring, I'd suspect a short to ground (or something wired into the
circuit that shouldn't be there).

I'd also suggest picking up a digital multimeter (DMM).  Even a fairly good one is a lot cheaper than replacing a part that doesn't
need to be replaced.  And the cheap ones (which will do) can be under $10.  Here's one on Amazon that looks reasonable
http://tinyurl.com/lwr7yvf
Or the same thing on flea-bay
http://tinyurl.com/k595mho

And of course there's always Horrible Freight.

-- Randall  

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 11:24:05 2014
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From: "dave n" <dave@ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D3.2A.04882.3775B745@cdptpa-oedge01>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 12:13:16 -0600
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

yes, you are right.  got it backwards.  sorry.

I have a multi meter.  thatbs what I used.  was all external to the cars 
wiring.

will do some more testing today and report back.  I've gotten lots of 
suggestions!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 11:44 AM
To: 'dave n' ; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues

> I replaced the temp sensor with an older one I had around,
> and as far as I
> know is working, same result.  tested it with hot water; get
> about 100%
> connectivity using my tester when cold; drops way off when hot.

There's something wrong with this picture.  The sender resistance should be 
relatively high when cold, and go down as it gets hot.

> hook up the used gages, voltage regulator, wire it up battery
> to vr (grounded)
> to gage to sensor in car, it pins right when the car is
> warmed up.  same for
> other gage.

How did you connect to the sender?  If it was through the car's wiring, I'd 
suspect a short to ground (or something wired into the
circuit that shouldn't be there).

I'd also suggest picking up a digital multimeter (DMM).  Even a fairly good 
one is a lot cheaper than replacing a part that doesn't
need to be replaced.  And the cheap ones (which will do) can be under $10. 
Here's one on Amazon that looks reasonable
http://tinyurl.com/lwr7yvf
Or the same thing on flea-bay
http://tinyurl.com/k595mho

And of course there's always Horrible Freight.

-- Randall

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 19:03:29 +0000
From: <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
 2014 19:03:29 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Broken speedometer cable - again-
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

There is certainly a chance that it is in th speedo.  You might try spinning it by hand and seeing if there is any resistance.  The speedo is pretty easy to remove.  I have some square drive bits that fit from cheapo tool kits I have purchased that work, smallish Phillips.  The speedo and trip odo numbers can stick and make the speedo bounce, maybe make the cable break.

Greg Lemon

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 16:16:00 2014
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
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I don't know your meter and I don't know if the readings are 
significant of
anything.  The Continuity test on most meters is good 
for finding closed
contacts and wire connections.  If you switch over 
to Ohms you will get
readings with significance.

Presuming the numbers you are getting are KOhms
your values are not too 
far off and I suspect your temp senders are OK.  If
anything they may 
be reading a bit high which would give you low readings,
not high.  My 
experience with thermistors is that when they go bad they go
open and 
that is not the case here.  And you are getting the same results
with 
swapping out the senders and the gauges.  So what is common among these
two setups?  The voltage stabilizer for one.  And the wiring.  The wire
between the sender and the gauge can be bypassed with a couple of 
jumpers.
The Voltage Stabilizer can be checked with the volt meter.  
That would be my
next step.

Dave Massey



-----Original Message-----
From: dave n
<dave@ranteer.com>


here is what I did today.  tried to document every
detail.  looks to me 
like
the sending unit is bad.  both???
btw - fuel
gage seems to read fine

did I miss anything?

1 - replace the thermostat
2. started car with lots of choke; idling about 1500 rpm
3. gage starts out
pinned left; after a couple minutes it starts to 
move
right
4. infrared
says temp of t stat housing is 112 and climbing
5. at 120 gage is vertical
6. turn off choke, rev engine; settles in at idle of 1200 or so, which 
is
normal (engine is not stock!)
7. tstat housing temperature in the 125 to 130
range; gage is moving 
right
8. after 5 to 10 minutes, gage has settled just
left of the red square 
under
the letter H
9. temperature is now in the 150
to 160 range; gage has moved farther 
right.
as the temperature passes 170
it [pins right
10. shut off car
11. set up secondary system - positive
terminal to voltage regulator, 
vr is
grounded as it should be, then vr to
gage to sending unit
12.  it still pins right.  this is using separate gage,
separate 
sending
unit, and completely independent of the cars wiring system
except the
battery and chassis
13.  connected mulitmeter from positive
terminal to t stat housing and 
to
temperature switch threads.  both read
over 12 volts
14.  old switch - which was in the car originally - I used the
continuity
tester - i get 0 when the two probes touch, 1 when one nothing is
connected
15.  connecting through the old switch (cold) i get .588
16.
swapped original sending unit back in; car was still pretty warm 
(off
except for power)
17. temp gage moved to almost full hot
18. disconnected
car wiring from sending unit; plugged in "external" 
temp
gage system; also
read way right
19. temp sensor which was in there - measures 5.6 or so on the
continuity
tester cold
20.  put it in boiling water - continuity tester
reads .13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 16:32:57 2014
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To: triumphs@autox.team.net
From: Dave <dave1massey@cs.com>
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Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A fuel lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John.  1/4 inch tubing can be had at any hardware store so if you 
want to
go that way the only issue is the compression sleeve at the 
pump which is a
special since it is a 5/16 compression fitting.  But 
Moss lists it (376-565)
I checked McMaster-Carr for a 1/4 to 5/16 barbed coupler but found 
nothing.
But you can get a 1/4 to male pipe adapter and a 5/16 to 
female pipe adapter
and screw them together.  Or if your "T" is 1/4 
inch maybe you can find a
5/16 barb to 1/4 compression fitting.  (This 
all presumes you will use a
short piece of hose to make the 
connections, which is typical in these
cars.)

Dave Massey



-----Original Message-----
From: john-marie
<john-marie@sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 30, 2014 1:21 pm
Subject: [TR] TR4A
fuel lines


Hi List,
Have installed Victoria British supplied 5/16"
copper fuel line from 
tank to
pump.  My TR4A has    Z-S carbs and uses the
carb to carb pipe with a 
"T".  I
have this pipe and it is reusable.  It did
not come with the VB kit.  
This
original pipe is 1/4", as is the pipe that
runs to it from the pump.  
The VB
kit has a 40" length of 5/6" pipe to get
from pump to carbs, but I need 
1/4"
pipe.  Before I look for a length of
1/4" pipe from another source, or 
figure
out how to step down at the carbs,
thought I'd ask the List if anyone 
has had
this issue.  Thanks.
John
DeLuca

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 16:47:43 2014
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Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 17:50:57 -0600 (CST)
From: thenicholls@verizon.net
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 temp gage issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

 Dave,


I went through this exact same thing at the beginning of this summer.  Gauge was reading high, which it never has done in the 10 years I have owned my 72 TR6.


I initially was headed to the voltage stab. myself, but as in your case, my fuel gauge was fine.


I ended up flushing the entire cooling system several times, until the brown water coming out turned light brown.


I refilled with 50/50, put in some water wetter, and it went back to normal right in the middle of hot and cold and I never had an issue all summer.


Just my experience.


Craig
 
 
On 11/30/14, Dave<dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
 
I don't know your meter and I don't know if the readings are 
significant of
anything. The Continuity test on most meters is good 
for finding closed
contacts and wire connections. If you switch over 
to Ohms you will get
readings with significance.

Presuming the numbers you are getting are KOhms
your values are not too 
far off and I suspect your temp senders are OK. If
anything they may 
be reading a bit high which would give you low readings,
not high. My 
experience with thermistors is that when they go bad they go
open and 
that is not the case here. And you are getting the same results
with 
swapping out the senders and the gauges. So what is common among these
two setups? The voltage stabilizer for one. And the wiring. The wire
between the sender and the gauge can be bypassed with a couple of 
jumpers.
The Voltage Stabilizer can be checked with the volt meter. 
That would be my
next step.

Dave Massey



-----Original Message-----
From: dave n
<dave@ranteer.com>


here is what I did today. tried to document every
detail. looks to me 
like
the sending unit is bad. both???
btw - fuel
gage seems to read fine

did I miss anything?

1 - replace the thermostat
2. started car with lots of choke; idling about 1500 rpm
3. gage starts out
pinned left; after a couple minutes it starts to 
move
right
4. infrared
says temp of t stat housing is 112 and climbing
5. at 120 gage is vertical
6. turn off choke, rev engine; settles in at idle of 1200 or so, which 
is
normal (engine is not stock!)
7. tstat housing temperature in the 125 to 130
range; gage is moving 
right
8. after 5 to 10 minutes, gage has settled just
left of the red square 
under
the letter H
9. temperature is now in the 150
to 160 range; gage has moved farther 
right.
as the temperature passes 170
it [pins right
10. shut off car
11. set up secondary system - positive
terminal to voltage regulator, 
vr is
grounded as it should be, then vr to
gage to sending unit
12. it still pins right. this is using separate gage,
separate 
sending
unit, and completely independent of the cars wiring system
except the
battery and chassis
13. connected mulitmeter from positive
terminal to t stat housing and 
to
temperature switch threads. both read
over 12 volts
14. old switch - which was in the car originally - I used the
continuity
tester - i get 0 when the two probes touch, 1 when one nothing is
connected
15. connecting through the old switch (cold) i get .588
16.
swapped original sending unit back in; car was still pretty warm 
(off
except for power)
17. temp gage moved to almost full hot
18. disconnected
car wiring from sending unit; plugged in "external" 
temp
gage system; also
read way right
19. temp sensor which was in there - measures 5.6 or so on the
continuity
tester cold
20. put it in boiling water - continuity tester
reads .13

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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From triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Nov 30 19:07:22 2014
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From: "D&BLambert" <dblambert@cox.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <D3ACCE82-26E7-491F-82C0-74B4ABACFC43@sbcglobal.net>
 <8D1DB0D8DBA9476-1F18-3A7AA@webmail-vm009.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 18:09:14 -0800
Thread-Index: AdAM9nivMJlzMFodSDyA4hBy7GCf3wAFNoMA
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A fuel lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
I had a similar issue when I cut in a couple of fuel filters on my TR3.
Used this adapter from JEGS. 
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/15945/10002/-1
Seems to be working well.
Dennis

> I checked McMaster-Carr for a 1/4 to 5/16 barbed coupler but found
> nothing.
 (This
> all presumes you will use a
> short piece of hose to make the
> connections, which is typical in these
> cars.)
> 
> Dave Massey

** triumphs@autox.team.net **

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