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Gary, it sounds to me as if you're doing all the right things based on my =
Healey 100 rebuild several years ago. Yes, I had the block boiled as part o=
f the machine-shop work. As for the parts, I also used a billet crank, 100M=
cam, alloy head, and all other parts from Denis Welch--the crank being the=
part that broke. These were rather spindly to begin with, and with that lo=
ng, long stroke and but three main bearings, replacing it with a better and=
stronger crank is the only way to go. Same with the alloy head, as most or=
iginal heads are warped, cracked, or both after 70 years-plus. You also wan=
t the best cam and especially rod and crank bearings you can buy=E2=80=94as=
in tri-metal, not just white metal, as original.
Three other suggestions: 1) Put in a rear lip seal while the engine and cra=
nk are out of the car. You can add on the seal to the later sixes with the =
engine and crank in place--but NOT on the fours. 2) Add a harmonic balancer=
to the front to help lessen the crankshaft-killing torsional vibration wit=
h that long stroke. 3) Again, to help lessen vibration, install a lighter f=
lywheel. You don't have to go crazy light; 20-25 pounds should be just righ=
t, using, say a late BJ8 3000 flywheel. And be damned sure you use ARP bolt=
s, not Moss cheapies, to install it, again available from Welch or AH Spare=
s, paying careful attention to the torque settings; mine came loose (thankf=
ully without killing me). I really liked Welch because of their technical a=
ssistance on not only getting the RIGHT parts but ALL the parts =C2=A0neede=
d.=C2=A0
Some may see this as overkill for a car that isn't being raced. Don't liste=
n to them; Healey engine rebuilds are EXPENSIVE and the idea is to do it ju=
st once! Best of luck ...
On Tuesday, April 15, 2025, 01:13:16 PM EDT, Steven Kingsbury via Heale=
ys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an eng=
ine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you'r=
e having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all me=
ans get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missing =
the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard abo=
ut engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check with =
your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine, but I=
did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them. I got=
my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why those, but=
I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could be the bo=
re perfect.
So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked by your machine shop as =
far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all surfaces as far as mating=
, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new copper head gasket and blew=
that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the head, another long story, bu=
t got everything redone and reinstalled the head, but this time with a DW s=
teel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area is surgically clean, use ple=
nty of assembly grease and take your time. I've now driven my car for over =
four years, and about 15 thousand miles and knock wood, it's still holding =
together.=C2=A0
Best of luck. If you want to "hear" the entire story, email me and let me k=
now, lots of interesting mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine=
needed the rebuild, it wasn't my choice just to do it, it had to be done, =
broken rings and scored cylinder walls. But it's not rocket science.=C2=A0
Steven Kingsbury
BN1
On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.=
net> wrote:
I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your help with a f=
ew questions.=C2=A0
My intent is to build a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will =
be bored out .020" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast road cam".=C2=A0=
I am planning on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light weight conn=
ecting rods.=C2=A0
My first question is should I have the block boiled out & if I do will that=
require replacing the cam bearings?=C2=A0 I recall reading that they are n=
ot currently available. Is that still true?
I was planning on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice =
that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What=
is the reason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with =
3 rings? Where is a good domestic source for pistons?
Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
roductions@icloud.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
h@aol.com
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp723ab1fdyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Gary, it sounds to me as if =
you're doing all the right things based on my Healey 100 rebuild several ye=
ars ago. Yes, I had the block boiled as part of the machine-shop work. As f=
or the parts, I also used a billet crank, 100M cam, alloy head, and all oth=
er parts from Denis Welch--the crank being the part that broke. These were =
rather spindly to begin with, and with that long, long stroke and but three=
main bearings, replacing it with a better and stronger crank is the only w=
ay to go. Same with the alloy head, as most original heads are warped, crac=
ked, or both after 70 years-plus. You also want the best cam and especially=
rod and crank bearings you can buy=E2=80=94as in tri-metal, not just white=
metal, as original.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Three other suggestions: 1) Put in a=
rear lip seal while the engine and crank are out of the car. You can add o=
n the seal to the later sixes with the engine and crank in place--but NOT o=
n the fours. 2) Add a harmonic balancer to the front to help lessen the cra=
nkshaft-killing torsional vibration with that long stroke. 3) Again, to hel=
p lessen vibration, install a lighter flywheel. You don't have to go crazy =
light; 20-25 pounds should be just right, using, say a late BJ8 3000 flywhe=
el. And be damned sure you use ARP bolts, not Moss cheapies, to install it,=
again available from Welch or AH Spares, paying careful attention to the t=
orque settings; mine came loose (thankfully without killing me). I really l=
iked Welch because of their technical assistance on not only getting the RI=
GHT parts but ALL the parts needed. </div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-=
setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Some may =
see this as overkill for a car that isn't being raced. Don't listen to them=
; Healey engine rebuilds are EXPENSIVE and the idea is to do it just once! =
Best of luck ...</div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yahoo_quoted_5452297918" class=3D"ydp30=
7b6e52yahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp307b6e52yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydp307b6e52quoted-text-header">
On Tuesday, April 15, 2025, 01:13:16 PM EDT, Steven=
Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp307b6e52inline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436"><div><div><div>I =
rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an engine=
but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you're h=
aving the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all means=
get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missing the=
engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard about =
engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check with you=
r machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine, but I di=
d get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them. I got my=
100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why those, but I =
made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could be the bore =
perfect.<br></div><div>So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked b=
y your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all su=
rfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new copp=
er head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the head,=
another long story, but got everything redone and reinstalled the head, bu=
t this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area is su=
rgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease and take your time. I've now =
driven my car for over four years, and about 15 thousand miles and knock wo=
od, it's still holding together. <br></div><div>Best of luck. If you w=
ant to "hear" the entire story, email me and let me know, lots of interesti=
ng mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine needed the rebuild, i=
t wasn't my choice just to do it, it had to be done, broken rings and score=
d cylinder walls. But it's not rocket science. <br></div><div>Steven K=
ingsbury<br></div><div>BN1</div><div><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><d=
iv>On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@autox=
.team.net> wrote:<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b=
6e52yiv6483219436ydpc92ee0b7yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483=
219436ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233"><div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sa=
ns-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436ydpc92ee0b7yiv23=
69121233ydp676a8dc0yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436ydp=
c92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476"><div style=3D"font-family:Co=
mic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436y=
dpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your =
help with a few questions. <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My intent is to =
build a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will be bored out .02=
0" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast road cam". I am planni=
ng on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light weight connecting r=
ods. <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My first question is should I have the=
block boiled out & if I do will that require replacing the cam bearing=
s? I recall reading that they are not currently available. Is that st=
ill true?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I was planning on a compression ratio i=
n the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as t=
heir high compression offering. What is the reason for this? Is it standard=
practice today to use pistons with 3 rings? Where is a good domestic sourc=
e for pistons?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Ho=
dson<br></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><div>_____________________=
__________________________<br></div><div>Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net=
" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
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