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I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an eng=
ine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you'=
re having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all =
means get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missi=
ng the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard=
about engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check =
with your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine,=
but I did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them=
. I got my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why th=
ose, but I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could =
be the bore perfect. So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked by=
your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all su=
rfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new cop=
per head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the hea=
d, another long story, but got everything redone and reinstalled the head,=
but this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area i=
s surgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease and take your time. I've=
now driven my car for over four years, and about 15 thousand miles and kn=
ock wood, it's still holding together. Best of luck. If you want to "hear"=
the entire story, email me and let me know, lots of interesting mistakes,=
but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine needed the rebuild, it wasn't my=
choice just to do it, it had to be done, broken rings and scored cylinder=
walls. But it's not rocket science. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On Apr 14, 2025,=
at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote: I a=
m preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your help with a few=
questions. My intent is to build a strong/fast street drivable engine. Th=
e block will be bored out .020" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast ro=
ad cam". I am planning on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light we=
ight connecting rods. My first question is should I have the block boiled =
out & if I do will that require replacing the cam bearings? I recall readi=
ng that they are not currently available. Is that still true? I was planni=
ng on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some s=
uppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What is the re=
ason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with 3 rings? =
Where is a good domestic source for pistons? Gary Hodson _________________=
______________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate=
.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/piperm=
ail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys@autox.team.net h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com
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<html><body><div><div>I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had
never bu=
ilt an engine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. =
Since you're having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bore=
d, by all means get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine=
was missing the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I=
had heard about engine number plates dissolving away during that process,=
so check with your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with t=
he engine, but I did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop in=
stall them. I got my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story=
on why those, but I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so t=
hey could be the bore perfect.<br></div><div>So yes on all new bearings, g=
et everything checked by your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, =
crank, etc. Check all surfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finall=
y, I went with a new copper head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 mi=
les! Had to redo the head, another long story, but got everything redone a=
nd reinstalled the head, but this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make s=
ure your assembly area is surgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease =
and take your time. I've now driven my car for over four years, and about =
15 thousand miles and knock wood, it's still holding together. <br></=
div><div>Best of luck. If you want to "hear" the entire story, email me an=
d let me know, lots of interesting mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself.=
The engine needed the rebuild, it wasn't my choice just to do it, it had =
to be done, broken rings and scored cylinder walls. But it's not rocket sc=
ience. <br></div><div>Steven Kingsbury<br></div><div>BN1</div><div><b=
r></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, wartho=
dson--- via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br></div><div><b=
r></div><div><br></div><div><div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-=
serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"yd=
pc92ee0b7yiv2369121233"><div class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0y=
ahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:=
16px;"><div id=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476"><div c=
lass=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476yahoo-style-wrap" =
style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your he=
lp with a few questions. <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My intent is to b=
uild a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will be bored out .02=
0" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast road cam". I am plann=
ing on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light weight connecting=
rods. <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My first question is should I have =
the block boiled out & if I do will that require replacing the cam bea=
rings? I recall reading that they are not currently available. Is th=
at still true?<br></div><div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">I was plann=
ing on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some =
suppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What is the r=
eason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with 3 rings?=
Where is a good domestic source for pistons?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r></div><div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson<br></div></div>=
</div></div></div></div><div><div>________________________________________=
_______<br></div><div>Support <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http:=
//Team.Net">Team.Net</a> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://www=
.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div>S=
uggested annual donation $12.75<br></div><div><br></div><div>Archive: <a =
rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"=
>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys";>http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys</a><br></div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@auto=
x.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br></div><div><a rel=3D"noopener no=
referrer" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Un=
subscribe/Manage: <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com">http://autox.=
team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com</a><br></d=
iv></div></div></blockquote></div><div><br></div></body></html>
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